As a Mercedes’ tech I can appreaciate the no BS how to you’ve put together for this video. I’ve got an 08 touring model and it looks like I will have a motor mount day one of these up and coming Saturday mornings this spring thanks to your informative video. I’ve watched other videos you’ve put out and I’m always super excited when I need to do a repair on my Wife’s odyssey and one of your videos are posted on that topic…..no need to watch anyone else’s. Thanks man…..you’re definitely contributing to the society of do it yourselfers that don’t want to pay exorbitant dealership repair costs.
I love the way you explain everything and show every bolt, clip, screws and so on. I feel like I can do the job myself just by watching you. This is one of the best videos I've seen. Everything Well shown and explained.👍🏼👌🏼👏🏼🏆
This is such a thorough and detailed video. Thanks for doing that. I changed my front mount at 86k miles. I know what you're saying about the original Honda parts. They are normally very high quality. However, I couldn't bring myself to spend ~$500 on the exact same thing that lasted only 86k miles. So I bought a cheap one for $125 from Rock Auto that went 100k miles. I'm due again. And now the van has almost 190k miles. Again, I cannot bring myself to put $500 into such a notoriously unreliable mount. I have seen that the tuner guys clean and inject urethane to make their mounts more solid, but they don't seem to cover that technique on these van mounts. I care more about reliability than vibration dampening, so if I could find a nearly solid mount, that's what I'd put in.
I just bought a full set of 5 mounts from RockAuto (made by Anchor) for $US 188.00. I am pretty sure that the front mount is shot, but wasn't sure about the others. I'm hoping that these aftermarket mounts fit and work well on my son's 2005 Touring with 220,000 miles.
@@martinliehs2513is the van still running? Mine has 260k miles. All I've replaced are struts, mounts and oil filter module gasket. I change the oil at 3500 miles.
You make it look easy. I like your technique. I did my '07 about five years ago and followed the book. It took about five hours to get it out and another five to get the new one in. For some reason mine was harder to see than this video. Unfortunately, I used RockAuto middle-of-the-road cost parts and they already failed. I'll plan on Honda then next go round.
Wow! You are very informative! You provide great detail! I greatly appreciate the fact, you work for Honda, as well as for your concern of sharing your knowledge with us! Thank you!!
Hi Brian - I'm guessing multiple mounts can be changed while the motor/trans is supported instead of doing it several times (if you were following the video exactly). Can you tell me which can be "combined"? Thanks as always for great content!
Front and side mounts are gone in my Ridgeline. I believe I'm going to have the same process, so now I don't feel the need to make my own video! Side mount looks like an easy job; front mount, not as much. What should I expect in terms of total time? (I'm a novice)
Great video. I have an 2008 model. Currently some clunky sound on the front passenger side. Not sure if it’s the side or front engine mount need replacing. Any suggestion to how to check which one needs replacing? Thanks
Thanks for this. But how much can you jack up the transmission before you do damage to the other mounts? I'm jacking mine up quite a bit and the front mount isn't budging.
Great video used cheap aftermarket parts because my vans towards the end of its days. The bolts on the transmission mounts and rear mount can be a booger.
I just tried to look at my odyssey on the ground jack, I assume it will be extremely difficult without the car being in the air. I have my engine move forward or backward every time I shift, not sure if it is a mount problem or a problem with transmission itself
Hey Brian, Great video! I did not find the links for the parts that you used. I thought that you said you could get Honda parts but not through the dealer. Where can I find that link? Thanks, Forrest
I had some worn mounts on my honda pilot, ended up buying a product called the VCMTUNER II and this stopped the VCM from engaging which is what the active mounts are trying to suppress on the vibration. The engine mount vibration is gone and the car drives smoother with the vcm no longer active. I did not have to replace the mounts, saved me thousands over having the dealer replace these. I guess other honda owners have high oil consumption and a recall from honda over this vcm nonsense as well, many reasons to get rid of the vcm. The eco light on the dash no longer shows up with the vcm disable modification.
Yes, I installed the vcmtuner solution as well. It solves the problem. This is a bad Honda design. Kill your vcm with vcmtuner. Also, another thing Honda doesn’t tell you which is a big gotcha is that you need to change your trans fluid AND most importantly the transmission filter. Yeah, Honda says it’s a lifetime product. Yes, the trans filter is made of the same stuff as a oil filter. Chances are that if you van has more than 80k miles that trans filer is disintegrating.
Wow is all I can say this is the best video on RUclips so far.. My question is this ' I need some help from anyone... 2010 odyssey. Can a rough crank when cranking engine be a bad motor mount/transmission? It feels like metal hitting somthing when starting up" it's a rough feeling please any help would be appreciated...
Hi Brian I too like your Video. I went and replaced all 3 motor mounts and the transmission mount in my 2014 Elite. But the after market mounts move as if the VCM is NOT working. tought i'd try the aftermarket as the Stealership wants $1K for just the front and rear. Is there a fuse to check? Relay? Where are they located? I'm trying all i can do before i rip out the new ones and replace them with stock. Thank you for your time and Knowledge.
7:22 you dont need to remove the bracket to take the mount out. Ii've done this before & there are other videos showing you this. You just need to wiggle it out around.
Hi Brian, Thanks for this video. I am very tempted to tackle this job myself now. One question though... I noticed the "VCM" on the engine cover. That leads me to believe that this is the Touring model-is that correct? I have the EX model and I believe the main difference for me will be not having an active suspension. No wires plugged into the mounts. Does that sound right?
Great video wished I had watched it before doing the drivers side mount. I am going to tackle the front mount next. I had a mechanic replace the timing belt, water pump, Tensioner, and pulleys. Unfortunately the bolt for the passenger side motor mount came lose and was lost so we were driving around on 2 mounts. I am sure we destroyed the other 2. just sucks, I using NAPA motor mounts hopefully they work decently.
Hello my good fellas! This only works for 2005 to 2007 . The fit for 2008 to 2010 is completely different, you will need remove starter and batt box and some other components. Make sure you have the tools and time before starting this kind of work.
When all the mounts are changed (honda parts) and while car is parked/running. Is it supposed to be idle without ANY vibration; just a smooth running engine or will there always be a small/faint amount of vibration?
Love the vid very helpful! question how do you tell if the mount is actually bad? My local mechanic said the front mount was bad so I opted to just do it myself I got it out and it looks like it's in perfect shape the boot isn't cracked doesn't look like it's leaking. Is there any way to to tell if it's actually bad? Also should ask the mounts be replaced as a set or is it fine to just replace one? Thank you!
Jessica Moggo the best way to check the mount is to power brake the car and watch the movement of the engine. You can also Excelerator in the celery rapidly and you will feel like clunk in the car. Unfortunately when it's out of the car it can be hard to tell if it's broken or not.
Great detailed videos. Torque specs or a link to the manual for torque specs and tightening order would be icing on the cake if that's important to someone (like me) :)
Okay anyone reading this please know that I bought the front active mount from the Honda dealer for 181.00 yes that is right and the rear for 238.00 this link he has is 3 times the price not sure wtf that is about...call the dealer if you don't believe me...yes I was shocked too...
You must be buying the mounts for the LX or the base EX model which are much cheaper. The active mounts for EX-L model and up are different and much more expensive.
You reminded me of an issue I'm having when I start my engine" does your engine feel rough when you crank it? It seems like a metal part hitting with the crank I suspect it's a bad motor mount somewhere any help would be appreciated
Commenting about the front engine mount section: Just a heads up for any new mechanics like me: at 3:48 it was way easier for me to unplug the wire from a connector about a foot away from the engine mount. I also ended up removing one of the engine fans and sliding the other fan over to get enough space to remove the bad mount (I did this instead of removing the mount bracket mentioned at 7:00). I ALSO couldn't unplug the wire connectors at these weird angles, but moving the fans gave me enough space to pull the bad mount anyway. I still had to unbolt the wire brackets mentioned at 4:29 and 5:00, however I didn't unplug the O2 Sensor mentioned at 4:35. And I had to unmount a "ground wire?" from the frame (I'm not sure if this is a ground wire but it's the brown copper looking wire seen at 4:32, I kept it connected to the bracket from 4:29, but I disconnected the other end of it from the car. Also I'm not sure if this had to be connected or not to remove the old mount. I originally disconnected it to give space for a ratchet while I was trying to disconnect the 7:00 bracket, but I didn't end up doing it this way.)
Great video, but I am suffering sticker shock for the price of those electronic mounts ! Wow !! I'm considering buying the non-electronic mounts and disabling the VCM with the "Muzzler" kit or something similar. Gotta do something, I getting alot of vibration when I accelerate, Please let me know what you think. Thank you Brian !!!
ibewcountry I know The price of those males are crazy. My experience with bypassing them though as you can still get vibrations at Idle. Not as bad of course but a slight vibration in the dash
thanks alot, but you posted so many parts and you only changed two right? How about autozone motor mount? I used their spark coil/alternator that competes genuine one and have limited life time warranty
Thanks Brian but I can’t find the links to buying the factory parts and required tool (wrench). Can you make the links easier to find? I mean you make money off the affiliate links, right? Just sayin...
great video but holy crap i cannot afford one mount being over $500. im going to buy aftermarket and if it doesn’t work i’m making my own mounts cuz that’s crazy
the instruction is really great - however I don't understand how you would be aware of an aftermarket motor mount failure. I haven't met a customer yet who is actually aware of the initial factory motor mount failure, I have to tell them about it.
how do you know when these mounts need replacement? I had a lot of vibration before and replaced the rear mount. My mechanic said the engine with sitting right down on top of it (no air in the rubber) but I'm curious about the other mounts now.
Sean Lacroix he smells can fail in a couple Ways. They can break it due to high torque such as hard acceleration. One milk goes bad and goes undetected and all the pressures on the next mount causing the second one to go bad. And also, like what your mechanic was explaining the rubber get hardened and it sags and the engine will vibrate. Also if oil gets on the rubber it will break it down.
is there a problem if i unplugged the PCM knowing that the battery is already disconnected? because that is what i have done before watching this video. if there is a problem, how to fix it? Thanks
Well funny I am looking at the video for doin the mounts but after watching everything you did for the first one I'll find another you honestly are making more work for your self brother just my opinion from doing it
The symptoms are vibrations from the engine. That happens when the motor mounts are sagging. Another symptom would be a A clunk noise and you feel a thump on acceleration.
He doesn’t actually show getting the front motor mount out or back in you have to remove the starter or maybe the battery box. Mine will NOT come out between the starter and fan.
@@jmedits3337first 2006 odyssey LX has metal wheels , ex has aluminum. Painted mirror ex. vs black plastic mirror in LX . Just 2 first example, that you can see right away.
Hi Brian, I got the same kinda question like Jessica Mogo, but in my case my 2005 EX - L model whenever I accelerate this annoying sound comes from the engine. I think the engine vibrates. I went to the mechanic just to replace ONE mount he asked me 2 hours job ($105 X 2) and for the part $375 plus tax (aftermarket) Canadian dollars . I looked online for the parts and I found for the set ( 5 pieces aftermarket) $165 US dollars . I called the mechanic how much he would charge me if I bring the parts... he sounds like unhappy and said he will charge me $125/hour X 2 , No warranty, and If I bring the wrong part by mistake he would charge me $125/ hour for every hour my Van sits on the hoist and I'm like...wow dude.....this greedy money grabber really encouraging me to tackle the job myself. So my question again is engine vibration is the cause of damaged mount? Thank you so much for your help. By the way you video is awesome and very simple to follow. Thank you for your time and energy. I appreciate it.
I know. OEM is always better, right, but why do we have to replace them to begin with? My 2001 Ody had engine mount problem. Even now on my 2012 ody, they still have mount problems after 12 years of "improving them"? I do not trust OEM on engine mounts. OEM is a few times more expensive than aftermarket. I will give aftermarket a try. Oh, use a $15 borescope camera to examine your mounts before buying them. You might not need all mounts replaced.
Derek- you say,”but why do we have to replace them to begin with? ” well because Honda vcm/eco turning off 3 cylinders shakes the crap out of the mother and destroys motor mounts. Buy vcmtuner to defeat it and live long and prosper
@@HowtoAutomotive just saw another video where the guy takes all kind off stuff off...i will do this this weekend but man 500.00 bucks I need to find cheaper mounts I have 213616 miles on my 2005 odessy
As a Mercedes’ tech I can appreaciate the no BS how to you’ve put together for this video.
I’ve got an 08 touring model and it looks like I will have a motor mount day one of these up and coming Saturday mornings this spring thanks to your informative video.
I’ve watched other videos you’ve put out and I’m always super excited when I need to do a repair on my Wife’s odyssey and one of your videos are posted on that topic…..no need to watch anyone else’s.
Thanks man…..you’re definitely contributing to the society of do it yourselfers that don’t want to pay exorbitant dealership repair costs.
I love the way you explain everything and show every bolt, clip, screws and so on. I feel like I can do the job myself just by watching you. This is one of the best videos I've seen. Everything Well shown and explained.👍🏼👌🏼👏🏼🏆
This. This is the best video I found for this process. Step by step was great. Thanks so much.
I've never seen that trick with the paper to hold a bolt in a socket before... that was revolutionary! Thanks!
Nick Greenfield glad you liked it thank you for watching!
I used that trick today. It works well with a piece of the blue shop towels too
I been doing that for years now my sad thought me that trick long time ago
@@HowtoAutomotive hello i have a Odyssey 2005 EXL, the mount that was used in your video is the same for my trim? TiA
This is such a thorough and detailed video. Thanks for doing that.
I changed my front mount at 86k miles. I know what you're saying about the original Honda parts. They are normally very high quality. However, I couldn't bring myself to spend ~$500 on the exact same thing that lasted only 86k miles. So I bought a cheap one for $125 from Rock Auto that went 100k miles. I'm due again. And now the van has almost 190k miles. Again, I cannot bring myself to put $500 into such a notoriously unreliable mount.
I have seen that the tuner guys clean and inject urethane to make their mounts more solid, but they don't seem to cover that technique on these van mounts. I care more about reliability than vibration dampening, so if I could find a nearly solid mount, that's what I'd put in.
I just bought a full set of 5 mounts from RockAuto (made by Anchor) for $US 188.00. I am pretty sure that the front mount is shot, but wasn't sure about the others. I'm hoping that these aftermarket mounts fit and work well on my son's 2005 Touring with 220,000 miles.
@@martinliehs2513is the van still running? Mine has 260k miles. All I've replaced are struts, mounts and oil filter module gasket. I change the oil at 3500 miles.
@frankh.3849 Yes, still running. Biggest concern now are oil leaks, of which I'm trying to trace the source(s).
@@martinliehs2513 I plug one leak by changing the oil filter "adapter" gasket. Which this plugged the biggest leak for me, the next one is vvt gasket.
You make it look easy. I like your technique. I did my '07 about five years ago and followed the book. It took about five hours to get it out and another five to get the new one in. For some reason mine was harder to see than this video. Unfortunately, I used RockAuto middle-of-the-road cost parts and they already failed. I'll plan on Honda then next go round.
Lack of Focus I’ve tried aftermarket amounts on these and not had much luck. Issues with vibrations and re-breaking.
Wow! You are very informative! You provide great detail! I greatly appreciate the fact, you work for Honda, as well as for your concern of sharing your knowledge with us! Thank you!!
things are clearly explained, not single second of the video is wasted.
liu fangjian thank you 🙏
these guides will help me alot because ill do the same honda odyssey engine mounts job like you did... thank you ☺️☺️☺️
Wish all vids were this excellent. As a fellow mechanic thank you
Scott Shepherd thank you!
Hi Brian - I'm guessing multiple mounts can be changed while the motor/trans is supported instead of doing it several times (if you were following the video exactly). Can you tell me which can be "combined"? Thanks as always for great content!
thank you for such thorough instruction guide. This is by far the best instruction video on engine mount replacement.
Obi2 thank you!
Bravo 👏🏼 Great how to video. I need to do this exact same repair on my 2007 Odyssey touring. Thank you Sir.
Great video. Took some time but got it done over the weekend.
Nice! Thanks for watching!
Did mine this weekend your video was great.
This is the best of the best repair video i ever seen !!! Engine mounts. Woww. Uou explain it so clear ! Great video tutorial. Dude. Keep it up. 👍👍👍
Front and side mounts are gone in my Ridgeline. I believe I'm going to have the same process, so now I don't feel the need to make my own video! Side mount looks like an easy job; front mount, not as much. What should I expect in terms of total time? (I'm a novice)
Is there a way to diagnose which mount is bad before removal? Can't afford to replace them all, as much as I would like to.
Great video. I have an 2008 model. Currently some clunky sound on the front passenger side. Not sure if it’s the side or front engine mount need replacing. Any suggestion to how to check which one needs replacing? Thanks
Good video, no BS and thankfully no bad music soundtrack!
Thanks for this. But how much can you jack up the transmission before you do damage to the other mounts? I'm jacking mine up quite a bit and the front mount isn't budging.
a little too late for me but I want to watch it anyway thanks for the video
Great video used cheap aftermarket parts because my vans towards the end of its days. The bolts on the transmission mounts and rear mount can be a booger.
0:00-12:00 front motor mount
12:00- 16:00 Rear active control motor mount
16:00 transmission mounts
I just tried to look at my odyssey on the ground jack, I assume it will be extremely difficult without the car being in the air. I have my engine move forward or backward every time I shift, not sure if it is a mount problem or a problem with transmission itself
At 24:36... I'm curious why you didn't pull the old motor mount out thru the same path that you use to install the new motor mount.
Hey Brian, Great video! I did not find the links for the parts that you used. I thought that you said you could get Honda parts but not through the dealer. Where can I find that link?
Thanks, Forrest
Sorry, I missed the "Show more"!
Thank you this is a lot helpful ❤
Super video! Thank you so much for the time and quality. Made my job on my daughter's '06 Pilot much easier.
I had some worn mounts on my honda pilot, ended up buying a product called the VCMTUNER II and this stopped the VCM from engaging which is what the active mounts are trying to suppress on the vibration. The engine mount vibration is gone and the car drives smoother with the vcm no longer active. I did not have to replace the mounts, saved me thousands over having the dealer replace these. I guess other honda owners have high oil consumption and a recall from honda over this vcm nonsense as well, many reasons to get rid of the vcm. The eco light on the dash no longer shows up with the vcm disable modification.
Yes, I installed the vcmtuner solution as well. It solves the problem. This is a bad Honda design. Kill your vcm with vcmtuner. Also, another thing Honda doesn’t tell you which is a big gotcha is that you need to change your trans fluid AND most importantly the transmission filter. Yeah, Honda says it’s a lifetime product. Yes, the trans filter is made of the same stuff as a oil filter. Chances are that if you van has more than 80k miles that trans filer is disintegrating.
Wow is all I can say this is the best video on RUclips so far..
My question is this '
I need some help from anyone... 2010 odyssey.
Can a rough crank when cranking engine be a bad motor mount/transmission? It feels like metal hitting somthing when starting up" it's a rough feeling please any help would be appreciated...
I noticed your doing this on a lift so I assume dropping the motor cradle assembly doesn’t make the job any easier?
Hi Brian I too like your Video. I went and replaced all 3 motor mounts and the transmission mount in my 2014 Elite. But the after market mounts move as if the VCM is NOT working. tought i'd try the aftermarket as the Stealership wants $1K for just the front and rear. Is there a fuse to check? Relay? Where are they located? I'm trying all i can do before i rip out the new ones and replace them with stock. Thank you for your time and Knowledge.
Kristian T Peterson sorry you’re still having trouble. I believe the fuse and relay for that is in the under hood relay box. It should be labeled.
7:22 you dont need to remove the bracket to take the mount out. Ii've done this before & there are other videos showing you this. You just need to wiggle it out around.
If I was to replace all 5 of them at home how many hours would you estimate it to take?
Great video, couldn’t find the link for the parts. Help please
Thanks for the video. Just changed all of them on my 2010 van.
MrRangerZr1 glad to help. Thank you for watching!
how did it cost to replace all of them?
Hi Brian, Thanks for this video. I am very tempted to tackle this job myself now. One question though... I noticed the "VCM" on the engine cover. That leads me to believe that this is the Touring model-is that correct? I have the EX model and I believe the main difference for me will be not having an active suspension. No wires plugged into the mounts. Does that sound right?
Scott Johnson that does sound correct .You will have a vacuum line on the bottom of the engine out though.
That's right.
Great video wished I had watched it before doing the drivers side mount. I am going to tackle the front mount next. I had a mechanic replace the timing belt, water pump, Tensioner, and pulleys. Unfortunately the bolt for the passenger side motor mount came lose and was lost so we were driving around on 2 mounts. I am sure we destroyed the other 2. just sucks, I using NAPA motor mounts hopefully they work decently.
Hello my good fellas! This only works for 2005 to 2007 . The fit for 2008 to 2010 is completely different, you will need remove starter and batt box and some other components. Make sure you have the tools and time before starting this kind of work.
Will be the same as the 2006 Honda Pilot?
Were can I buy the mount kit? I have Honda Odyssey 2008 LX
When all the mounts are changed (honda parts) and while car is parked/running. Is it supposed to be idle without ANY vibration; just a smooth running engine or will there always be a small/faint amount of vibration?
Love the vid very helpful! question how do you tell if the mount is actually bad? My local mechanic said the front mount was bad so I opted to just do it myself I got it out and it looks like it's in perfect shape the boot isn't cracked doesn't look like it's leaking. Is there any way to to tell if it's actually bad? Also should ask the mounts be replaced as a set or is it fine to just replace one? Thank you!
Jessica Moggo the best way to check the mount is to power brake the car and watch the movement of the engine. You can also Excelerator in the celery rapidly and you will feel like clunk in the car. Unfortunately when it's out of the car it can be hard to tell if it's broken or not.
Wow! Such professionalism. Thank you very much for the video.
Jackson Cruz thank you for watching!
This video is awesome by the way...i did all of mine thanks to you...but price for the mounts those link must have been hacked..
Great detailed videos. Torque specs or a link to the manual for torque specs and tightening order would be icing on the cake if that's important to someone (like me) :)
I don't remember unplugging all that stuff but I did take off the grill to get to the front mount.
I dont remember if we asked you neither..
Will these steps be the same for a 2006 honda ridgeline?
Okay anyone reading this please know that I bought the front active mount from the Honda dealer for 181.00 yes that is right and the rear for 238.00 this link he has is 3 times the price not sure wtf that is about...call the dealer if you don't believe me...yes I was shocked too...
These prices have probably fluctuated since he first posted the link.
You must be buying the mounts for the LX or the base EX model which are much cheaper. The active mounts for EX-L model and up are different and much more expensive.
thanks for sharing. great tutorial
Thank you for this video from Germany.
I feel vibration in my Odyssey, and i think, this is the problem.
Wonderful professional Video
You reminded me of an issue I'm having when I start my engine" does your engine feel rough when you crank it?
It seems like a metal part hitting with the crank I suspect it's a bad motor mount somewhere any help would be appreciated
Excellent video Brian 👍
Thanks so much for your time and help.
Can't wait to do this lol thanks for the video it'll save me a little time
Hopefully everything goes smoothly. Thank you for watching!
Your video is amazing!!! Ver y detalles step by step and ver y crear. Thanks por posting it. I'll suscribe imediately.
Commenting about the front engine mount section:
Just a heads up for any new mechanics like me: at 3:48 it was way easier for me to unplug the wire from a connector about a foot away from the engine mount. I also ended up removing one of the engine fans and sliding the other fan over to get enough space to remove the bad mount (I did this instead of removing the mount bracket mentioned at 7:00). I ALSO couldn't unplug the wire connectors at these weird angles, but moving the fans gave me enough space to pull the bad mount anyway. I still had to unbolt the wire brackets mentioned at 4:29 and 5:00, however I didn't unplug the O2 Sensor mentioned at 4:35. And I had to unmount a "ground wire?" from the frame (I'm not sure if this is a ground wire but it's the brown copper looking wire seen at 4:32, I kept it connected to the bracket from 4:29, but I disconnected the other end of it from the car. Also I'm not sure if this had to be connected or not to remove the old mount. I originally disconnected it to give space for a ratchet while I was trying to disconnect the 7:00 bracket, but I didn't end up doing it this way.)
Great video, but I am suffering sticker shock for the price of those electronic mounts ! Wow !! I'm considering buying the non-electronic mounts and disabling the VCM with the "Muzzler" kit or something similar. Gotta do something, I getting alot of vibration when I accelerate,
Please let me know what you think. Thank you Brian !!!
ibewcountry I know The price of those males are crazy. My experience with bypassing them though as you can still get vibrations at Idle. Not as bad of course but a slight vibration in the dash
OK, thanks for replying. You have earned a new subscriber !
ibewcountry awesome thank you!
Thank you Brian!!
Thank you for watching!
The links in the description of the video are factory parts. They are Amazon affiliate links but they are for factory parts.
thanks alot, but you posted so many parts and you only changed two right? How about autozone motor mount? I used their spark coil/alternator that competes genuine one and have limited life time warranty
I would talk to the guy and ask him what the customers are saying about the parts if they’re coming back are making vibrations.
Excellent video, thank you.
Thanks a lot, but do you have video for LX/EX model rear mount, it is different than this EX-L.
The rearward bolt broke off for the passenger side motor mount. Had to drill it out and tap new threads… not a fun time
Thanks Brian but I can’t find the links to buying the factory parts and required tool (wrench). Can you make the links easier to find? I mean you make money off the affiliate links, right? Just sayin...
The active engine mounts are for odyssey's with the different modes (sport, eco, normal etc) only?
tell me please, maybe there is a jolt when you turn on the gear and behind this pillow, and not a big beating during acceleration?
This video is great. I just changed mine on a 2005 van
Jamey Edwards thank you!
Brother man I'm going to give U (5*) U got a (TEACHING SPIRIT)! Keep -UP Gd. Works !!!
How can you tell which mount is bad
What bolt was used at 25:30 ? My car is missing a bolt and needs a replacement.
great video but holy crap i cannot afford one mount being over $500. im going to buy aftermarket and if it doesn’t work i’m making my own mounts cuz that’s crazy
Thank you great video
How many engine motor mounts have
the instruction is really great - however I don't understand how you would be aware of an aftermarket motor mount failure. I haven't met a customer yet who is actually aware of the initial factory motor mount failure, I have to tell them about it.
how do you know when these mounts need replacement? I had a lot of vibration before and replaced the rear mount. My mechanic said the engine with sitting right down on top of it (no air in the rubber) but I'm curious about the other mounts now.
Sean Lacroix he smells can fail in a couple Ways. They can break it due to high torque such as hard acceleration. One milk goes bad and goes undetected and all the pressures on the next mount causing the second one to go bad. And also, like what your mechanic was explaining the rubber get hardened and it sags and the engine will vibrate. Also if oil gets on the rubber it will break it down.
Can you just unplug the mounts, or is there computer control issues with that?
David Earley you’ll get a check engine light or the code will be stored.
is there a problem if i unplugged the PCM knowing that the battery is already disconnected? because that is what i have done before watching this video. if there is a problem, how to fix it?
Thanks
ahmed tawfik on this car you should be fine. Some cars do not like their PCM’s unplugged and require a scan tool to get everything started again.
Thank you kind sir ❤
Thank you for watching!
Well funny I am looking at the video for doin the mounts but after watching everything you did for the first one I'll find another you honestly are making more work for your self brother just my opinion from doing it
How do I know that I need engine mount replacements ?
The symptoms are vibrations from the engine. That happens when the motor mounts are sagging. Another symptom would be a A clunk noise and you feel a thump on acceleration.
Good video 📹 👍
when at a stop light I can feel like vehicle sort of oscillating vibrating. Is this the mounts? never been replaced 2012 ody 160k miles.
Possibly. If the mounts are bad you also feel clunk on hard acceleration. First thing is to rule out that it’s not miss firing.
Doesn't work on 07. Whenever I shift to reverse it still autolocks.
Would this work on a 2009 Honda Pilot?
Yes it’s almost identical maybe a few small differences. Check with the part numbers though they may be different.
Thanks for the response! I’ll check online and match parts and comment if I run into any issues doing this! Great video!!
He doesn’t actually show getting the front motor mount out or back in you have to remove the starter or maybe the battery box. Mine will NOT come out between the starter and fan.
This is where Honda makes their Odyssey profits.
Why you removed the bracket while you don't need?!! Only the base 4 bolts and the big nut front the bracket and slide it right and take it out.
very good video!
Evan721sxm thank you and thank you for watching!
That front mount is a pain in the ass!
how do we know it's broken, needs to be replaced?
liu fangjian you will feel the engine jumping around on hard acceleration or you feel engine vibrations.
Does this work on a 2007 fhonda pilot???
Joshua Hernandez yes pretty much exactly the same except for I think you have more room on the pilot.
My next car will be a 4 cylinder so that I can fit my fat hands into the engine compartment
Wouldn't that be nice, to be able to work on a car with more space
Why don't you mentioned That this video was for 2005-2010 honda odyssey EX-L ,touring only, because LX and EX use different motor mounts!
Hi. How do I know if my Odyssey is ex or lx? Is a 2006.
@@jmedits3337first 2006 odyssey LX has metal wheels , ex has aluminum.
Painted mirror ex. vs black plastic mirror in LX . Just 2 first example, that you can see right away.
@@TheWaski77 Thanks for the response.
Hi Brian, I got the same kinda question like Jessica Mogo, but in my case my 2005 EX - L model whenever I accelerate this annoying sound comes from the engine. I think the engine vibrates. I went to the mechanic just to replace ONE mount he asked me 2 hours job ($105 X 2) and for the part $375 plus tax (aftermarket) Canadian dollars . I looked online for the parts and I found for the set ( 5 pieces aftermarket) $165 US dollars . I called the mechanic how much he would charge me if I bring the parts... he sounds like unhappy and said he will charge me $125/hour X 2 , No warranty, and If I bring the wrong part by mistake he would charge me $125/ hour for every hour my Van sits on the hoist and I'm like...wow dude.....this greedy money grabber really encouraging me to tackle the job myself. So my question again is engine vibration is the cause of damaged mount? Thank you so much for your help. By the way you video is awesome and very simple to follow. Thank you for your time and energy. I appreciate it.
Esto serviria en una honda pilot2007
I know. OEM is always better, right, but why do we have to replace them to begin with? My 2001 Ody had engine mount problem. Even now on my 2012 ody, they still have mount problems after 12 years of "improving them"? I do not trust OEM on engine mounts. OEM is a few times more expensive than aftermarket. I will give aftermarket a try.
Oh, use a $15 borescope camera to examine your mounts before buying them. You might not need all mounts replaced.
Derek- you say,”but why do we have to replace them to begin with? ” well because Honda vcm/eco turning off 3 cylinders shakes the crap out of the mother and destroys motor mounts. Buy vcmtuner to defeat it and live long and prosper
Wow dude your a genius
KangoKid Kidd thank you!
@@HowtoAutomotive just saw another video where the guy takes all kind off stuff off...i will do this this weekend but man 500.00 bucks I need to find cheaper mounts I have 213616 miles on my 2005 odessy
Sometimes I think they make these videos so you see you should bring it to them
Robert Dickens if the video helps someone decide that it’s too advanced or they don’t have the tools to do it that’s exactly what the videos.
The ones in the frame... They 14 mm? you never say...Want to have everything on hand and not have to go in and out grabbing tools