Nice! I don't have a router or an aze-biki nokogiri, but I have had some success on pine with just a series of very heavy knife cuts, starting light and then really working into the cut with a sharp knife. I then pared into that line from the waste side like Paul Seller's 'knife wall' technique for sawing, then removed the waste with the chisel as you did. I"d be wishing for a saw in any thing tougher than pine though!
Yes! I totally forgot, but that Stanley I'm using actually had a veneer cutter that can be used to do that. You'd still run into the same problems with the skids though. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I know Zetsaw/z-saw have some katabi with a slithly curved blade NOT intended for this, but iv had success to a degree with mine. Leaves a but ugly finish since my saw is intended for somthing bordering on rough cutting lumber. Anyway, they are widely availeble for cheap on ebay, and planty of western shops
Hi Jason, I’m new at Woodworking. I like your channel and subscribed and look forward to seeing more of your videos. I do have a question regarding the combination plane. As I understand Stanley’s combination plane had several shortfalls. But, I believe all those have been addressed with Veritas’ Combination plane. Not sure if you are familiar with it, but if you are do you find the same issues with it?
Thank you for subscribing! I am not familiar with the Veritas Combination plane, unfortunately. I choose the old Stanley's for a couple of reasons..I like the sturdy construction of older tools, and I have a very small shop, so it seemed more economical (and space-saving) to buy two combination planes rather than 50 dedicated moulding planes. Having used both dedicated planes and the combination plane to make moldings I have found that the Stanley is excellent if you spend the time to make all the minor adjustments required to the sleds and fences, etc. This can be time-consuming, however. If you are looking to be able to quickly transition to making moldings without hassle I would recommend the dedicated wooden molding planes. I just watched a video on the Veritas and I didn't see anything that is different from the Stanley in terms of adjustment. With all combination planes you need to have razor sharp irons, and not all the irons can be sharpened with a jig (almost none, actually), so you need to have good freehand sharpening skills. But,the same goes for dedicated moulding planes though, however, so there's not much difference there. The other thing I considered was the condition of the plane...wooden moulding planes can be easily found on eBay, etc. these days, but finding ones in good condition with flat soles and good irons can be quite expensive. Due to the materials used in the Stanley (metal) I've found that they all work even though they might be a little rusty. Finding one in good condition with all the irons can be a problem and costly though. If you're on a budget and want to ensure that the condition of the plane and irons is perfect, and also be able to contact someone at customer service should anything be wrong, I would go with the Veritas. Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching! You can buy the azebiki nokogiri from this store here in Japan. Just scroll down on this page to the bottom to find the saw. www2.hp-ez.com/hp/nakatyou/page40
@@TenonsTenors thanks. I would like to ask you to clarify something for me please. Is the only difference between these two saws (aside from length) that the one is hand made and the other machine? Beishojirou Azebiki Nokogiri Hand made saw 直ぐ使い 別所二郎作 替刃式畔挽き鋸 and Chojiro Azebiki Nokogiri Hand made saw 長二郎 目立て済み 畔挽き鋸. I found them on kurashige-tools online if you want to take a peek.
There's no reason your saw would have to be curved. You could just as easily use your technique with a back saw to achieve the same results. I got my back saw from my local Ace Hardware.
@@timelyrain yes, well, if you don't have one of those saws then efficiency is the least of your worries. My point was someone with a backsaw or really, almost any crosscut saw that's rigid enough could still make the cut without having one of these saws. I only say that because he said that if you didn't have the saw then you'd have to just chisel it all out, which is inaccurate. Thanks for the info though 👍
A Western back saw would be close to impossible to use in this situation. The Japanese saw with the curved blade allows you to push the saw forward in the kerf and cut on the pull stroke, and the straight handle allows you to apply downward pressure as you cut. The shape of the handle on a Western back saw is designed to enable downward pressure as you push forward, but the 90 degree angle on the front of the saw would get caught in the kerf and you would not be able to push it forward. You have to remember, the back saw would need to be at angle since the entire blade may not fit if the groove you are cutting is short. The Japanese saw avoids this problem entirely. Thanks for watching!
ruclips.net/video/G4hA-auX85Q/видео.html As long as the dado is longer than the saw blade and your back saw is not super thin and flimsy like a flush-cut saw, a back saw will work just fine as shown in this video. It may not work as efficiently as this nice Japanese saw, but it can get the job done. As can a chisel and mallet. Whatever works...
@@ARMYStrongHOOAH17 Apparently you didn't read my comment carefully. I said, if you're cutting a groove that's shorter than your back saw, you will not be able to use a Western saw. Also, in the link you sent James is cutting a groove that allows his saw to go beyond the work piece. That is NOT a stopped groove, where the groove ends within the work piece. I appreciate you're comment, but you are wrong. A Western back saw is not the tool you want to use for this task.
I’ve been looking at these for years. Time to get one. Thanks for sharing.
They are very useful! Thanks for watching!
@@TenonsTenors yesssir
ONE OF YOUR BEST VIDEOS! SO USEFUL!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Agreed, I imagine this method would also be useful for sliding dovetails, just use an angled block instead of a straight one.
@@shanemccarthy1562 that's right...great idea! I still don't own a router plane, thanks
Nice! I don't have a router or an aze-biki nokogiri, but I have had some success on pine with just a series of very heavy knife cuts, starting light and then really working into the cut with a sharp knife. I then pared into that line from the waste side like Paul Seller's 'knife wall' technique for sawing, then removed the waste with the chisel as you did.
I"d be wishing for a saw in any thing tougher than pine though!
ruclips.net/video/9iQ1-kuQ1qY/видео.html
Yes! I totally forgot, but that Stanley I'm using actually had a veneer cutter that can be used to do that. You'd still run into the same problems with the skids though. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the video! 👍
Thanks for watching!
I know Zetsaw/z-saw have some katabi with a slithly curved blade NOT intended for this, but iv had success to a degree with mine. Leaves a but ugly finish since my saw is intended for somthing bordering on rough cutting lumber. Anyway, they are widely availeble for cheap on ebay, and planty of western shops
Mortise Gauge and a Fenced Router plane is another option
Hi Jason, I’m new at Woodworking. I like your channel and subscribed and look forward to seeing more of your videos. I do have a question regarding the combination plane. As I understand Stanley’s combination plane had several shortfalls. But, I believe all those have been addressed with Veritas’ Combination plane. Not sure if you are familiar with it, but if you are do you find the same issues with it?
Thank you for subscribing! I am not familiar with the Veritas Combination plane, unfortunately. I choose the old Stanley's for a couple of reasons..I like the sturdy construction of older tools, and I have a very small shop, so it seemed more economical (and space-saving) to buy two combination planes rather than 50 dedicated moulding planes. Having used both dedicated planes and the combination plane to make moldings I have found that the Stanley is excellent if you spend the time to make all the minor adjustments required to the sleds and fences, etc. This can be time-consuming, however. If you are looking to be able to quickly transition to making moldings without hassle I would recommend the dedicated wooden molding planes. I just watched a video on the Veritas and I didn't see anything that is different from the Stanley in terms of adjustment. With all combination planes you need to have razor sharp irons, and not all the irons can be sharpened with a jig (almost none, actually), so you need to have good freehand sharpening skills. But,the same goes for dedicated moulding planes though, however, so there's not much difference there. The other thing I considered was the condition of the plane...wooden moulding planes can be easily found on eBay, etc. these days, but finding ones in good condition with flat soles and good irons can be quite expensive. Due to the materials used in the Stanley (metal) I've found that they all work even though they might be a little rusty. Finding one in good condition with all the irons can be a problem and costly though. If you're on a budget and want to ensure that the condition of the plane and irons is perfect, and also be able to contact someone at customer service should anything be wrong, I would go with the Veritas. Hope that helps!
Tenons & Tenors thanks!
🙏❤️🙏
Wer can i fiend Azebiki
Thanks for watching! You can buy the azebiki nokogiri from this store here in Japan. Just scroll down on this page to the bottom to find the saw.
www2.hp-ez.com/hp/nakatyou/page40
@@TenonsTenors is that you in the linked website picture with the Japanese man? How long is your aze-biki? (the long one you use here). Tx
@@LitoGeorge No, that's not me and the head of my saw is about 10cm or so.
@@TenonsTenors thanks. I would like to ask you to clarify something for me please. Is the only difference between these two saws (aside from length) that the one is hand made and the other machine? Beishojirou Azebiki Nokogiri Hand made saw 直ぐ使い 別所二郎作 替刃式畔挽き鋸 and Chojiro Azebiki Nokogiri Hand made saw 長二郎 目立て済み 畔挽き鋸. I found them on kurashige-tools online if you want to take a peek.
Yes, that appears to be the only difference.
There's no reason your saw would have to be curved. You could just as easily use your technique with a back saw to achieve the same results. I got my back saw from my local Ace Hardware.
The curve is not for feasibility but for efficiency
@@timelyrain yes, well, if you don't have one of those saws then efficiency is the least of your worries. My point was someone with a backsaw or really, almost any crosscut saw that's rigid enough could still make the cut without having one of these saws. I only say that because he said that if you didn't have the saw then you'd have to just chisel it all out, which is inaccurate.
Thanks for the info though 👍
A Western back saw would be close to impossible to use in this situation. The Japanese saw with the curved blade allows you to push the saw forward in the kerf and cut on the pull stroke, and the straight handle allows you to apply downward pressure as you cut. The shape of the handle on a Western back saw is designed to enable downward pressure as you push forward, but the 90 degree angle on the front of the saw would get caught in the kerf and you would not be able to push it forward. You have to remember, the back saw would need to be at angle since the entire blade may not fit if the groove you are cutting is short. The Japanese saw avoids this problem entirely. Thanks for watching!
ruclips.net/video/G4hA-auX85Q/видео.html
As long as the dado is longer than the saw blade and your back saw is not super thin and flimsy like a flush-cut saw, a back saw will work just fine as shown in this video. It may not work as efficiently as this nice Japanese saw, but it can get the job done. As can a chisel and mallet. Whatever works...
@@ARMYStrongHOOAH17 Apparently you didn't read my comment carefully. I said, if you're cutting a groove that's shorter than your back saw, you will not be able to use a Western saw. Also, in the link you sent James is cutting a groove that allows his saw to go beyond the work piece. That is NOT a stopped groove, where the groove ends within the work piece. I appreciate you're comment, but you are wrong. A Western back saw is not the tool you want to use for this task.