Loved the video! Although I am installing a Garnin autopilot I have a Bayliner 3870 with hynautic H50 steering at the helms and the install was good for me in that I did not know what size connecters to buy to put the system in place. Thanks for the great camera work and explanations.
Thanks for a very well done vidio. I am up dating an 20 your old raymarine autopilote to a EV 200. The Type 1 hydraulics are already in place so I only need to do the electronics. Your vidio will be helpful when I start the install.
Thanks for the feedback Dennis. You will love the EV200 - great system! Good luck with your project and let me know if you have any questions. Happy boating!
Thanks Patrick! After releasing the pressure in the lines, I just used a simple Olfa-type construction blade against a wood block to cut the lines. And I'm not sure of what else is out there, but all other lines I examined were the same size as mine.
It’s probable that the pumps need to be rebuilt, but both my helms have been like this since we bought the boat 2 years ago, and everything works fine. Plus, now that the autopilot is installed, I rarely touch the steering wheels at all! When I’m close to the dock I’m usually spinning the boat with the twin screws, then once away front the dock we steer with the autopilot controls. What year / kind of boat do you have?
You have any video how you calibrated the pilot? When i calibrate my pilot i don’t get the option to do a 360 turn for the compass calibration? Any idea how you did that ? Or what i missed 😅
Thanks for watching. I did not make a video on the calibration of the EV Autopilot, but it is very straightforward. In fact, calibration is not required with this system - it calibrates itself after you engage the 'Dockside Wizard' and it apparently gets smarter with every use as it will actually learn the different characteristics of your boat. (I think the old way of turning the boat in a slow 360 with a 1 mile radius is for the older systems) I did find this Raymarine video which may be helpful for you. Skip to the 2:37 min mark for the talk on the EV system and calibration: ruclips.net/video/VIm-hjr35Kw/видео.html
Great video! Thanks for sharing it! I have a Sealine F33 with the same reservoir from Hynautic but RV-60 or RV-67 and also two helmstations. What kind of pump do you have used? Type 1 oder Type 2? I don't really know the size of my steering ram. Thanks again and always happy cruises, Udo
Thanks for the feedback, so glad you liked the video! I'm pretty sure my hydraulic pump was a Type 1, but it really does depend on the size of your hydraulic steering ram, so you will have to get in there and find out. I remember watching one of the Raymarine Autopilot videos and they basically said the only option you can choose yourself is the type of control head - everything else from the size of the ACU and the type of hydraulic pump will be dictated by the size of your boat and the components already in place. Good luck with your project!
I am in the process of doing the same project on my 2001 Bayliner 3788 with dual helms and the same hydraulic system as yours. Your video was very helpful. Just as you said in the video, I am very comfortable and capable of doing all of the install except the hydraulics. I have a couple of hydraulic questions. Are you just loosening that outer nut on the studs at the bottom of the RV 55 that must open some valve internally to purge the air? I noticed that your leaked Hynautic fluid during the install that was red as is mine. I carry a small container of Hynautic fluid onboard just in case, but that fluid is clear/yellow. Is it all the same despite the color difference? I think i recall hearing that Bayliner somehow made it red to better visualize leaks. I would assume that you had to add fluid to top off the reservoir after purging out all the air, but that wasn't shown to see what hydraulic fluid you used. Thanks - Open Wide
I'm so happy you found my video useful. Don't be too intimidated regarding the hydraulics - in the end, it wasn't that daunting. You are correct that only those purge nuts just need to be loosened. I put one wrench on the cylinder, and a socket on the nut, so that I didn't loosen the cylinder, just the nut. And it didn't have to be loosened much, just maybe a turn or so. You'll know you went far enough because when you go test at your steering wheel, the hydraulic steering ram will not move, and your steering wheels just keep turning and turning forever. When you first turn the wheels after installing the autopilot, you will actually hear and feel the air bubbles moving as you repeatedly turn the wheels to push the fluid all the way though the whole system. Whatever happens inside when those nuts are loosened allows the fluid to just cycle through over and over, which allows the air to escape the lines and just bubble up in the tank. Make sure you release the pressure in the Reservalve tank (Just like you would on a bicycle tire.) before you cut the lines. Once all the pressure is out, then you can cut into your lines, one at a time. The only fluid I lost was when I cut the first line, and it was very little - maybe a table spoon or so. It leaked when I finished the cut and the line flicked away from me. If I had a second set of hands, I could have prevented the fluid from leaking. I learned from the first cut, and was more careful with the other two to minimize or stop any further leakage. At the end of the purging, I checked the fluid level in my revervalve tank and it did not have a noticeable drop, and was still well above the minimum level, so I actually never did add any more fluid. And yes, my existing fluid was orangy-red (Possibly ATF??) and the replacement hydraulic steering fluid I bought was nearly clear... different manufacturer maybe? I thought about flushing the whole system and replacing it with new fluid, but it was working fine, so I decided not to bother. Hope all that helps, and good luck - keep me posted!
Hello Thank you very much for the nice video, it will help me a lot.. I have a Bayliner Contessa Fly - that I have made whit a new FNM 42HPEP with a new Bravo 3 X 2.0, I had sailed few hours and unfortunately my boat sank in the harbor. So now I'm rebuilding it. I would like to ask you if you have to switch if you want to steer from the flybridge or steer from inside? I can't really find an answer to whether there is a switch or both steering positions are "just" assembled with the hoses.... Thank you With best regards Johnny Andersen
Hi Johnny, sorry to hear your boat sank, but that’s great you are on the path to rebuild. No switching is necessary between my upper and lower helms. The shifters/throttles are actually connected so when I’m on the flybridge and make adjustments, it looks like a ghost is moving the shifters at the lower helm. For the steering wheels, they are both active at all times but they do NOT move together. If I’m steering up top, the wheel does not move below and vice versa. But if someone else turns the other steering wheel at the same time as me, we could be ‘fighting’ each other for directional control. On that same note, when the autopilot is engaged, neither steering wheel moves at all, as the hydraulic pump is controlling the tiller arms. If I turn the steering wheel while the autopilot is on, the rudders will respond for a moment and turn the boat, but then the autopilot pump will engage and turn the rudders to put me back on the original course. This is actually really beneficial for making a sudden adjustment to avoid a close log etc. as in a panic situation it might take a moment to turn off the autopilot. I hope that all makes sense. Let me know if you have any other questions. Dave
Hi Dave Thank you very much for the answer - made a lot of sense :-) Before the boat sank, the autopilot had a lot of difficulty steering the boat in a straight direction, it zigzagged a lot - think that the cause might be a fault in the system? But others say that a Bayliner will never sail in a straight direction - what do you think? Best regards Johnny@@daved5738
This was a great video. I have a Trojan 10 Meter with the same steering and couldn’t figure out how and where to install my pump. Thanks so much!
Awesome! So glad you found it helpful. Appreciate the feedback Bob.
Loved the video! Although I am installing a Garnin autopilot I have a Bayliner 3870 with hynautic H50 steering at the helms and the install was good for me in that I did not know what size connecters to buy to put the system in place. Thanks for the great camera work and explanations.
So glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for a very well done vidio. I am up dating an 20 your old raymarine autopilote to a EV 200. The Type 1 hydraulics are already in place so I only need to do the electronics. Your vidio will be helpful when I start the install.
Thanks for the feedback Dennis. You will love the EV200 - great system! Good luck with your project and let me know if you have any questions. Happy boating!
Great video Dave! What did you use to cut the existing hydraulic lines? Are most existing lines 3/8”?
Thanks Patrick! After releasing the pressure in the lines, I just used a simple Olfa-type construction blade against a wood block to cut the lines. And I'm not sure of what else is out there, but all other lines I examined were the same size as mine.
Thank you. Very nice job.
Thx for the feedback!
Your wheel makes the same noise as mine. I thought there was something wrong with mine but I guess that's how it is
It’s probable that the pumps need to be rebuilt, but both my helms have been like this since we bought the boat 2 years ago, and everything works fine. Plus, now that the autopilot is installed, I rarely touch the steering wheels at all! When I’m close to the dock I’m usually spinning the boat with the twin screws, then once away front the dock we steer with the autopilot controls.
What year / kind of boat do you have?
Please do more maintenance videos! I have a 2002 Bayliner 3788 and many of our systems are similar. Very useful.
Will do!
You have any video how you calibrated the pilot? When i calibrate my pilot i don’t get the option to do a 360 turn for the compass calibration? Any idea how you did that ? Or what i missed 😅
Thanks for watching. I did not make a video on the calibration of the EV Autopilot, but it is very straightforward. In fact, calibration is not required with this system - it calibrates itself after you engage the 'Dockside Wizard' and it apparently gets smarter with every use as it will actually learn the different characteristics of your boat. (I think the old way of turning the boat in a slow 360 with a 1 mile radius is for the older systems) I did find this Raymarine video which may be helpful for you. Skip to the 2:37 min mark for the talk on the EV system and calibration: ruclips.net/video/VIm-hjr35Kw/видео.html
Great video! Thanks for sharing it! I have a Sealine F33 with the same reservoir from Hynautic but RV-60 or RV-67 and also two helmstations. What kind of pump do you have used? Type 1 oder Type 2? I don't really know the size of my steering ram. Thanks again and always happy cruises, Udo
Thanks for the feedback, so glad you liked the video! I'm pretty sure my hydraulic pump was a Type 1, but it really does depend on the size of your hydraulic steering ram, so you will have to get in there and find out. I remember watching one of the Raymarine Autopilot videos and they basically said the only option you can choose yourself is the type of control head - everything else from the size of the ACU and the type of hydraulic pump will be dictated by the size of your boat and the components already in place. Good luck with your project!
I am in the process of doing the same project on my 2001 Bayliner 3788 with dual helms and the same hydraulic system as yours. Your video was very helpful. Just as you said in the video, I am very comfortable and capable of doing all of the install except the hydraulics. I have a couple of hydraulic questions. Are you just loosening that outer nut on the studs at the bottom of the RV 55 that must open some valve internally to purge the air? I noticed that your leaked Hynautic fluid during the install that was red as is mine. I carry a small container of Hynautic fluid onboard just in case, but that fluid is clear/yellow. Is it all the same despite the color difference? I think i recall hearing that Bayliner somehow made it red to better visualize leaks. I would assume that you had to add fluid to top off the reservoir after purging out all the air, but that wasn't shown to see what hydraulic fluid you used.
Thanks - Open Wide
I'm so happy you found my video useful. Don't be too intimidated regarding the hydraulics - in the end, it wasn't that daunting.
You are correct that only those purge nuts just need to be loosened. I put one wrench on the cylinder, and a socket on the nut, so that I didn't loosen the cylinder, just the nut. And it didn't have to be loosened much, just maybe a turn or so. You'll know you went far enough because when you go test at your steering wheel, the hydraulic steering ram will not move, and your steering wheels just keep turning and turning forever. When you first turn the wheels after installing the autopilot, you will actually hear and feel the air bubbles moving as you repeatedly turn the wheels to push the fluid all the way though the whole system. Whatever happens inside when those nuts are loosened allows the fluid to just cycle through over and over, which allows the air to escape the lines and just bubble up in the tank.
Make sure you release the pressure in the Reservalve tank (Just like you would on a bicycle tire.) before you cut the lines. Once all the pressure is out, then you can cut into your lines, one at a time.
The only fluid I lost was when I cut the first line, and it was very little - maybe a table spoon or so. It leaked when I finished the cut and the line flicked away from me. If I had a second set of hands, I could have prevented the fluid from leaking. I learned from the first cut, and was more careful with the other two to minimize or stop any further leakage.
At the end of the purging, I checked the fluid level in my revervalve tank and it did not have a noticeable drop, and was still well above the minimum level, so I actually never did add any more fluid.
And yes, my existing fluid was orangy-red (Possibly ATF??) and the replacement hydraulic steering fluid I bought was nearly clear... different manufacturer maybe? I thought about flushing the whole system and replacing it with new fluid, but it was working fine, so I decided not to bother.
Hope all that helps, and good luck - keep me posted!
Hello
Thank you very much for the nice video, it will help me a lot..
I have a Bayliner Contessa Fly - that I have made whit a new FNM 42HPEP with a new Bravo 3 X 2.0, I had sailed few hours and unfortunately my boat sank in the harbor.
So now I'm rebuilding it.
I would like to ask you if you have to switch if you want to steer from the flybridge or steer from inside?
I can't really find an answer to whether there is a switch or both steering positions are "just" assembled with the hoses....
Thank you
With best regards
Johnny Andersen
Hi Johnny, sorry to hear your boat sank, but that’s great you are on the path to rebuild.
No switching is necessary between my upper and lower helms. The shifters/throttles are actually connected so when I’m on the flybridge and make adjustments, it looks like a ghost is moving the shifters at the lower helm. For the steering wheels, they are both active at all times but they do NOT move together. If I’m steering up top, the wheel does not move below and vice versa. But if someone else turns the other steering wheel at the same time as me, we could be ‘fighting’ each other for directional control.
On that same note, when the autopilot is engaged, neither steering wheel moves at all, as the hydraulic pump is controlling the tiller arms. If I turn the steering wheel while the autopilot is on, the rudders will respond for a moment and turn the boat, but then the autopilot pump will engage and turn the rudders to put me back on the original course. This is actually really beneficial for making a sudden adjustment to avoid a close log etc. as in a panic situation it might take a moment to turn off the autopilot.
I hope that all makes sense. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Dave
Hi Dave
Thank you very much for the answer - made a lot of sense :-)
Before the boat sank, the autopilot had a lot of difficulty steering the boat in a straight direction, it zigzagged a lot - think that the cause might be a fault in the system?
But others say that a Bayliner will never sail in a straight direction - what do you think?
Best regards Johnny@@daved5738
@@JohnnyAndersen-n3e I’m betting it was the system. My Bayliner steers perfectly straight with the modern Raymarine autopilot 😁
Hallo can you please let me know your systerm, I have a Raymarine EV 100 @@daved5738
Hi there, mine is a Raymarine EV 200@@JohnnyAndersen-n3e