LOL, so I am taking the express ride to PETG. I just commented on you more recent video that this is my first foray into this hobby (for want of a better word) and I knew I wanted to make things for outdoor use with some heat tolerance rather than knick-knacks and toys so bought one roll of PLA to learn on and 5 rolls of PETG to start getting serious. So anyway, your video will be helpful. Thanks again.
I've been printing PLA for a few years and just recently got into PETG. The material feels so much stronger in my unofficial experience. I think you'll enjoy this "hobby"!
I found on my anycubic mega x I was having a lot of blob problens and I couldn't get retraction to fix it. I set my flow rate to 95% (could be different. I would try testing from 92% - 100%) and it worked great on removing the blobs and the prints where clean and strong!
Those are the exact retraction settings I'm using for my ender 3 v2, you might be able to fix some of the stringing if you enable coasting and mess around with that. I've dialed in my profile to print a benchy in about 1hr35 mins and the detail is almost perfect at .2mm layers
245c nozzle 80c bed because im printing infill at 75mm/s inner walls at 50mm/s and the outer wall at 35mm/s, its a really good profile for speed and quality
Hey, kind sir. I have a question. Have you had issues with PETG sticking to the nozzle, build-ing up and then depositing during print (I see it happens when I print solid infills). So, have you had issues like this and have you found a solution? Thank you!
Here are the ones I am using now: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFGXC5N?ie=UTF8&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=goattoaster9-20&linkId=04b4f25c11559804edd100dc5e0e90bc&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl I usually just search and look for what has a lot of good reviews.
yeah, i only print petg with my anycubic mega. nema 17 for extruder, nooctua for all fans, the psu i removed that wining fan on and put a bigger one on the bottom of the anycubic mega instead, 2208 drivers, insulated buildplate on the underside, the hotendhousing got a upgrade from thingiverse with 3 fans total, to partfans and one hotend, anti tangle on the top part of the frame, leds all around the frame, then ofcourse a rasberry pi with octoprint with a webcam and wifi file transfer. Then a sealed custom built cabinet for keeping the moving air away from print and keeping the heat up... really want automatic bed leveling, but that isnt supported by my trigorilla motherboard..
Might not be the right place to ask but I keep setting my nozzle temp to 210 in settings but when the print starts, it drops to 190 and my fillament is just not working with that temp. Any ideas why the settins wont save at the 210 like i need?
welp sounds like you done did a oopsie, PETG sticks like a MF to glass unless you add blue masking tape first the omly solution is to write off that glass plate as a loss and order a new one . dont try to get it off because it will take off a huge chunk of glass with it thats what happened to joel the 3Dprinterrnerd when he printed with PETG on a glass plate just look up '' I broke the 38 000$ 3d printer''
@@JJShankles Cura, I used the printer software when slicking by going to the type of filament, made a custom one and put 230 since I am doing PETG. What is your recommendation for PETG temperature, fan speed, etc..?
Strength, temperature resistance, springiness and more waterproof. PLA is a good material, but it is not as durable as PETG. Here in Phoenix, AZ, accidentally leaving a PLA object in your car on a summer day can be a problem. Best case you'll come back and find it warped if not outright melted from the heat. It is certainly not the best thermal resistance, but for most "environmental" heat it does the job very well. PETG is also good if you want springs or springlike mechanisms. I tried to print out these spring opening pliers out of PLA and the spring mechanism just crushed and never went back into its original shape. PLA is also porous and many times won't keep water in (or out) of something that is meant to be waterproof (bowls, cups etc) especially over time. PETG is very similar to PET which is what water bottles are made of and PETG does the job very well. PLA is by no means a bad material, it just has limits just like any other material.
LOL, so I am taking the express ride to PETG. I just commented on you more recent video that this is my first foray into this hobby (for want of a better word) and I knew I wanted to make things for outdoor use with some heat tolerance rather than knick-knacks and toys so bought one roll of PLA to learn on and 5 rolls of PETG to start getting serious. So anyway, your video will be helpful. Thanks again.
I've been printing PLA for a few years and just recently got into PETG. The material feels so much stronger in my unofficial experience. I think you'll enjoy this "hobby"!
Make sure to dehydrate your petg often. This stuff loooooves to soak up any and all moisture
I found on my anycubic mega x I was having a lot of blob problens and I couldn't get retraction to fix it. I set my flow rate to 95% (could be different. I would try testing from 92% - 100%) and it worked great on removing the blobs and the prints where clean and strong!
Do you get build-up on the nozzle? I get on mine and no idea how to deal with it
Love your videos so nice an easy explaining goo forward
Using the standard cura profile on the latest version for petg gets you a good baseline
I was honestly surprised how well it worked!
Those are the exact retraction settings I'm using for my ender 3 v2, you might be able to fix some of the stringing if you enable coasting and mess around with that. I've dialed in my profile to print a benchy in about 1hr35 mins and the detail is almost perfect at .2mm layers
245c nozzle 80c bed because im printing infill at 75mm/s inner walls at 50mm/s and the outer wall at 35mm/s, its a really good profile for speed and quality
What sort of retraction speed and distance are you using?
@@JJShankles 5.5-6.0 mm retraction distance with 30 mm/s retraction speed
Great video! Thanks for the information
Glad it was helpful!
Great videos!! Greatings from Germany!
Hey, kind sir. I have a question. Have you had issues with PETG sticking to the nozzle, build-ing up and then depositing during print (I see it happens when I print solid infills). So, have you had issues like this and have you found a solution? Thank you!
Do you have a link to good/budget nozzles like the ones you showed?
Here are the ones I am using now: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFGXC5N?ie=UTF8&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=goattoaster9-20&linkId=04b4f25c11559804edd100dc5e0e90bc&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
I usually just search and look for what has a lot of good reviews.
Thanks, I’ll try these settings and see how they come out!
yeah, i only print petg with my anycubic mega. nema 17 for extruder, nooctua for all fans, the psu i removed that wining fan on and put a bigger one on the bottom of the anycubic mega instead, 2208 drivers, insulated buildplate on the underside, the hotendhousing got a upgrade from thingiverse with 3 fans total, to partfans and one hotend, anti tangle on the top part of the frame, leds all around the frame, then ofcourse a rasberry pi with octoprint with a webcam and wifi file transfer. Then a sealed custom built cabinet for keeping the moving air away from print and keeping the heat up... really want automatic bed leveling, but that isnt supported by my trigorilla motherboard..
Might not be the right place to ask but I keep setting my nozzle temp to 210 in settings but when the print starts, it drops to 190 and my fillament is just not working with that temp. Any ideas why the settins wont save at the 210 like i need?
Whats your optimal petg print bed temp on the anycubic equivalent of the ultrabase
I use 75C on the bed and 235C on the hotend.
Did u find that PETG stuck too hard to the bed and peeled off the nice anycubic glass builds plate?
welp sounds like you done did a oopsie, PETG sticks like a MF to glass unless you add blue masking tape first
the omly solution is to write off that glass plate as a loss and order a new one . dont try to get it off because it will take off a huge chunk of glass with it
thats what happened to joel the 3Dprinterrnerd when he printed with PETG on a glass plate
just look up '' I broke the 38 000$ 3d printer''
Pleaae show how to change the Print Temp
You select the print temperature in your slicer software. What slicer software are you using?
@@JJShankles Cura, I used the printer software when slicking by going to the type of filament, made a custom one and put 230 since I am doing PETG. What is your recommendation for PETG temperature, fan speed, etc..?
Nozzle: 235C, bed: 75C, Fan: 100% at layer 10
So many different people giving completely different settings when it comes to petg...
Different things work for different people, these settings work for me, but you just need to find what works for you.
mega s
or
mega zero
?
I have the mega s, but a lot of the tips would probably apply to the zero
Wich hot end we can add to this printer I have tree of those
I think any V6 style hotend is an easy install.
Why use PETG over PLA?
Strength, temperature resistance, springiness and more waterproof. PLA is a good material, but it is not as durable as PETG. Here in Phoenix, AZ, accidentally leaving a PLA object in your car on a summer day can be a problem. Best case you'll come back and find it warped if not outright melted from the heat. It is certainly not the best thermal resistance, but for most "environmental" heat it does the job very well. PETG is also good if you want springs or springlike mechanisms. I tried to print out these spring opening pliers out of PLA and the spring mechanism just crushed and never went back into its original shape. PLA is also porous and many times won't keep water in (or out) of something that is meant to be waterproof (bowls, cups etc) especially over time. PETG is very similar to PET which is what water bottles are made of and PETG does the job very well.
PLA is by no means a bad material, it just has limits just like any other material.
Sounds like i am gonna stick to pla
I still stick to PLA for most prints. PETG is a specialty material for me, and I only use it for specific uses.
Where is the estep liiiiink lol D:
I just created a video covering e-step calibration here: ruclips.net/video/DmD5oh8iso8/видео.html
By any chances do you know the energy consumption of this machines?
My one is around 100 -125w