Some stuff is plastic and brittle and will break for older cars. Prepare for issues. Everything can be solved. Do it on the weekend so you have plenty of time to recover from issues. This job is harder than shown here for first timers. Watch every video you can watch. Search for hiw to change spark plugs on this engine which also will cover the top and lower manifolds. If you can take out the manifolds the rest is easier especially dealing with the brackets and back bolts. Also with this kind of labor involved, change the housing, spark plugs, the sensors and even the water pump if the mileage is up there and never done before. You don't want to go through this and find out you need to change that $20 sensor a month after that.
Great video sir. Just wanted to add that I usually drain coolant before disassembly to prevent it pouring into block when you remove cooler and also please cover up those valve ports while working. You don't want anything falling in there.
I didn’t need to drain the coolant went doing mine. This hose is towards the top of the system, so not much pressure to push coolant out as long as you keep the hose propped up
Thank you're awesome! I changed out the oil pressure sensor and still got the engine light, but when I did the job i noticed oil was in the bottom of the housing. After watching your video, I know now why. Thank you so much.
The one time I decided to let a shop do my oil change "fire stone" .. I started to see oil in my drive way a few weeks ago and lead me to this video .. all around the plastic neck at the bottom is filled with oil just like this one .. same look under the jeep .. started not shifting at high rpm .. then I was like let me check my dip stick.. nothing !! .. top it off with 5gals of oil just to save my engine shifted great on the way back home , jeeps parked til the fix .. parts on order thanks for making this video !
Probably they Over tighten the filter and cracked the housing. Good idea not to use it until it’s fixed, you don’t wanna lose the engine. Good luck with the job. Let me know how it goes. Thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment.
Excellent video, was extremely helpful. Also changed the plugs, and cleaned the trottle body while i was in it. Thank you for taking the time to make the video, saved me a great deal of time and money.
Wow, great video from start to finish. I appreciate you sharing your talents with the RUclips Fam. The video confirmed this repair is a bit beyond my pay grade and skill. I had my go-to mechanic do the repair job. The cooler unit was ok, so we just did seal kit and intake manifold gaskets. After seeing this video, and all that is involved to just access the cooler unit, probably should have paid for new cooler as well.
Good video. But the hardest part is how to loosen the lower nut on the back bracket to be able to get the small studs above to get out of the bracket. How did you do it? In the middle of this now.
I am very grateful for this video. This said, I want to stress to the average non-mechanic person that this is a difficult job with lots of challenges. I managed to get it done, but it is not as easy as it appears in the video. You will need some mechanical experience and a lot of tools. You will also need the grace of God (or a really long 13mm wrench) to get that lower frame nut loosened enough to free the upper intake. Ahh, removing the upper intake..... challenging in so many ways.... Also, the all aluminum version of the housing from Dorman (which I used) is slightly larger than OEM at the base due to an unused valve port. Because of this, it is very difficult to get it into the slot while repositioning the coolant hose. Otherwise, it is excellent quality. If I had to do this again, I would pay someone else. Regardless, thanks A2Z for the great assistance.
Quality video and appreciate the time put in. I'm nervous just watching you work with the intake manifold holes wide open. All the debri from you work will fall inaide and not to mention the rogue bolt!
Should I drain the oil before hand? I am in the process of doing this, I replaced the thermostat housing and am doing a flush before installing the oil cooler, water is currently in my radiator. Would it be a good idea to wait until after the cooler is installed to add fresh coolant?
My jeep is booked in to have this job done in 2 weeks, unfortunately I haven't got the time to do it myself. The leak is at the beginning stage and I'm not seeing my oil going down except for drips on the exhaust. My question is how safe is it to drive it for the next couple weeks. Thanks you are a pro.
A couple tips. There are 7 bolts on the upper intake. One is hidden behind the throttle body. When re-installing the upper intake push the bolts up from the bottom and unsure then a few turns so they stay up out of your way when putting it back on. It will slide right in place. The hardest part of the whole thing is the rear bracket nut loosen. You really really need an Extra long 13mm wrench. we're taking extra long!
Thank you 1000 times . You video helped GREATLY ..a few tight spots,but all turned out good..had to improvise a tool ..but it all worked out .changed plugs while in that deep..I chose the aluminum filter canister instead the plastic one...THANK YOU AGAIN
ok maybe a silly question. But where was the failure with the oil cooler? Was it cracked? Where did the oil actually come from? thanks great video - going to use this to do mine. And I just changed my spark plugs 3 months ago but didn't notice this till I looked under the car and my pan was wet with oil just like you showed. ty where was the failure?
At 6:25 not sure if its all models but there is an extra bolt on the manifold back and to the left. Hard to get to, mines A 2011 Laredo so not sure if it was removed in later models.
Those coolers are known to leak from different areas. The gasket/seals area underneath, between the aluminum and the plastic part or sometimes the plastic part cracks. If you’re sure it’s only leaking from the gasket area and you got low miles, just change that but if you got a car with 140-150k miles, I recommend you change the whole thing. Thank you for watching
Hi , great video. I am seeing oil inside the coolant reservoir, could this be caused by faulty oil cooler, someone recommended i have it changed.Car runs fine except temp rises sharply and the fan kicks in.
You can drain some of the coolant before starting this job but anyway coolant inside the cooler won’t drain. You can just do that job and you might leak out about a 1-2Q of coolant that you can top off later.
Hey bud. Im in the middle of my swap now on a '14 Ram 1500 3.6L. Same pentastar engine. I had the oil leak issue for awhile before I found out it was the cooler housing. After awhile the truck started having issues with accelerating. It would sort of bog down or hesitate at 3000 rpm. This is when i immediatley investigated the issue and started the swap. Do you think the new coolant housing will fix this issue. I brought into a mechanic for diagnosis and they didnt find any other codes either besides the oil pressure sensor. So im hoping the acceleration issues are just due to the part failing. What do you think?
Hey! Good stuff man. Good luck with the swap. Honestly I haven’t seen it cause that problem before but I can see oil pressure issues causing something like that. It will probably solve that problem if you have no other codes on the system. Let me know how it goes. Thank you.
I just replaced my oil cooler and everything went great but it started and idled rough then shut off now it cranks but no start.Any idea what can cause it ?
Great video! I was wondering if the coolant lines nuts need to be removed/ loosen to have the intake manifold remove. Im not sure I understand why you need to have that extra slack.
Because the intake manifold is stuck between the two brackets on the driver side and the one in the back by the pass side. You have to slack the brackets to get the manifold out. I hope it make sense.
Thanks for the video! After a few hiccups I have been able to replace the oil cooler. The car had some hesitation to start (probably no oil running through) but it did start in 3 seconds and runs excellent! However, I am seeing oil drops under the engine and under the transmission at a very slow leak. I would appreciate any inputs/feedback. Thank you again!
The slow start it was probably the lake of gas. Oil drops might be from all the oil that previously leaked and trapped on the engine, transmission and frame.
Thank you for putting this together. Currently working on this project, and curious what size the 5 bolts holding the oil cooler down are? Another video mentioned Torx bit E8? is this correct
Just subscribed. I love your videos! They are really detailed and helpful. Quick questions, for the two 13mm nuts on the driver side, I'm having a real tough time reaching the one by the firewall. did you use a long wrench to reach it? I also noticed that this same nut has a bracket on the other side so I can't use the closed end of a wrench to get it. Thanks for your help.
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate you subscription and comment. Yes a long gear ratchet works the best. The bracket in-front of it, you can just use a pry bar and just pry it out of the stud then loosen the nut. Let me know if you have any questions.
I thought it was the transmission leaking so I changed gasket and I came across this video looked at where u said jeep cooler leaks from between the two heads and there is a bad leak.
So i have a question my friends, jeep a 2013, super similar is leaking coolant from the same area to where its filling coolant around the oil filter instead of oil, and also when filling the radiator coolant jus flushes out. and runs above the trans behind the cooler under the car. Can the oil cooler cause that issue as well?
Make sure the coolant is full, open bleeder screw on top of thermostat housing while car is cold and refill coolant until it starts coming out of the bleeder screw then close bleeder screw. Run car with heat on low setting and check if radiator fan kicks in when car gets hot. Let me know.
Just for reference, year and mileage on the grand Cherokee ??? I have to replace mine, but the OEM part shows backordered in the whole country! Don’t want to put aftermarket junk in mine
It’s 2015 and I have seen them fail as early as 70K miles. Yea lately a lot of Chrysler products been on back order, not sure why. Could be COVID-19 related. I’m working on one now with a major engine knock, another common problem with 3.6L engine. Video probably coming next week. You should watch it if you have the car.
is the pressure sensor part of what is changed when you change the oil cooler? what's the ave cost? Thx so much. My Dad now passed away, was always my guide on my Jeep repairs.
Sorry about your dad. May he RIP. Yes there’re two sensors mounted on the cooler and both are getting changed with the cooler. Oil pressure and coolant temp. Thank you for watching. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
It shouldn’t unless it’s leaking coolant from the coolant side of that cooler and you’re loosing coolant or the coolant temp sensor on the cooler it self is acting up.
@@jimmyaltamirano9192 I believe in the video if I remember correctly. I drained about 1G of the coolant before the job was started then an oil change after the job was done.
Usually while doing the oil change if you over tighten the filter that can happen, also the difference in the heating rate between the plastic part and aluminum part of the cooler can cause these issues.
@@a2zautomasters862 Ok! Thanks! getting the P066DD code and I'm praying this solves it. Don't want to pay to get the oil pump replaced. Excellent instructional video!
Great video man, i have a question...will this cause your engine light to come on? I have the same issue with my 2018 grand cherokee and while i was changing the oil i noticed the oil pooling in the same areas so im sure the oil filter housing needs replaced but just wondering if this would cause my engine light to come on.
I noticed the oil leak and when I looked at the housing I could see the oil build up around the housing thats what prompted me to change the oil thinking the rubber ring for the oil filter was bad.
Awesome video! I will be doing this. By chance do you know the torque specs for the oil housing cooler itself, because I know the bottom is made of plastic so I don’t want to over tighten them
Excellent video, will be replacing this today. I noticed you didn't once mention torqueing (in/lbs) the bolts for the upper/lower, is it not a concern?
Adam Marineau thank you for watching. I really appreciate you comment. I did so many of them so I’m so used to change them and I use 1/4 drive ratchet so I can feel how tight it’s but if you actually look on the top of that manifold you will see it’s engraved 7-9nm that’s 60-80 in lb if you wanna torture them down.
Thank you for going into great detail on which parts need to be loosed or removed. Question: Does the oil and coolant need to be drained in order to replace this part?
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. You should do an oil change after the job. No need to drain the oil first but you can drain about 1/2 a gallon or so from the coolant so it wouldn’t make a big mess when you remove the cooler. Thank you for watching. I appreciate your comment.
Mainly the O rings / seals between the cooler and the block go first. U can just change them but I don’t recommend doing that. It’s not an easy job, you don’t wanna do that and few months later it fails from another spot.
If that part (oil filter cooler) gets damaged could it create any oil and coolant mixture? My jeep started overheating and when I checked I found oil all mixed up in my coolant reservoir and radiator !
Thanks for this video. Can you please list the tools you used? Mainly the cordless nut driver and the long pry bar. Not sure if they are the official names. Thanks
Thank you for watching. Most of my tools I’m using are SnapOn tools. The cordless nut driver is a 1/4 drive long neck SnapOn, the other shorter one is also SnapOn but with a shorter neck and it’s a 3/8 drive and the long pry bar is actually a long panel popper.
Hi im no mechanic and i have some doubts i have a grand cherokee laredo 2015 and the trasmission cooler is leaking trasmission oil and the mechanic said that he has to empty the a/c gas so he can remove the old transmission cooler
That’s 100% true. The transmission fluid cooler in part of the AC condenser. It’s split in half the top part is for the transmission fluid and the bottom part is for the AC.
Yes they actually do sell a kit for that. Just make sure the actual cooler/ housing isn’t cracked and you good to go. 854.020 Elring is the part # for the seal kit. Good luck.
Best to just change out the spark plugs during this if its been awhile. Might as well since it makes it so you dnt have to do that entire breakdown again any time soon.
Few reasons. 1. Over tightening the filter with every filter /oil change replacement 2. The housing is made of plastic and sits on an aluminum cooler the difference in head exchange between aluminum and plastic causes failures. 3. The seals on the bottom of the cooler loses elasticities, get crushed and become hard plastic and starts to leak.
Hey I’m Having this issue with my jeep grand Cherokee that the oil is mixing with the coolant but I check my engine oil is fine than my oil temp is just slowly rising also the oil level was low
Hey, oil pressure is always higher than coolant pressure. So oil will always make its way to the coolant. Most likely your cooler is damaged internally.
Yea that’s normal. Some coolant get trapped inside the engine and wouldn’t drain completely out of the radiator and will come out when the hoses are removed.
Great video! I just did mine, and my finger tips are still sore 😊! I am having trouble starting the car after this change. I went over every single connection, electric as well as hoses and all nuts and bolts. A lot of smoke came from off the cats when I started it, and it’s running very rough. Also, the auto start is shutting off right after the crank… any idea what could be the issue… ? Did anyone else experience this after doing this housing replacement ? Thx
Can you scan for any codes? Make sure you plugged the throttle body, air temp sensor and MAP sensor on the pass side back of intake manifold. Let me know.
Surprised to not see torque wrench or torque values addressed. Looked up and found lower manifold is 106 inch pounds, upper manifold is 89 inch pounds. Use typical "cross pattern" tightening sequence.
Great video, than you for posting. One question: Did you replace the coolant o-ring (the green one) on the intake? I'm going to do mine and don't see it with the OEM cooler...
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. I’m not sure what green O ring you’re talking about there’s no O rings on the intake that Im aware of.
@@DonkeyKong2222 I’m sorry but can’t picture any green Orings for the coolant system. If you can plz take a pic of it and send it to my IG or Facebook. I can check it out.
@@a2zautomasters862 SO i did the job today. The new unit comes with an o ring on it. so theres nothing i had to worry about. THanks again for the vid. it helped
I'm having trouble with the back bottom bracket bolt. There's the coolant line that goes over the bolt. Is there a extra little nut on top of that holding the coolant line on?
It shouldn’t be a nut there. The line bracket is a tight fit around the bolt. Take your time and pry it out. Be carful don’t pry against anything plastic that might break.
@@tfgarvin122 the lines are aluminum so it’s little forgiving, not as strong as steel, so if you pry against the bracket it self and not the line it should come out.
Some stuff is plastic and brittle and will break for older cars. Prepare for issues. Everything can be solved. Do it on the weekend so you have plenty of time to recover from issues. This job is harder than shown here for first timers. Watch every video you can watch. Search for hiw to change spark plugs on this engine which also will cover the top and lower manifolds. If you can take out the manifolds the rest is easier especially dealing with the brackets and back bolts. Also with this kind of labor involved, change the housing, spark plugs, the sensors and even the water pump if the mileage is up there and never done before. You don't want to go through this and find out you need to change that $20 sensor a month after that.
Quoted from a shop as $550. I appreciate your walk-through helped save me a ton Thanks!
Great video sir. Just wanted to add that I usually drain coolant before disassembly to prevent it pouring into block when you remove cooler and also please cover up those valve ports while working. You don't want anything falling in there.
Thank you for your input and thank you for watching.
I didn’t need to drain the coolant went doing mine. This hose is towards the top of the system, so not much pressure to push coolant out as long as you keep the hose propped up
Great video! No music, no joking around, just the facts. Thanks!!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. I appreciate your comment. Thank you for watching.
Thank you're awesome! I changed out the oil pressure sensor and still got the engine light, but when I did the job i noticed oil was in the bottom of the housing. After watching your video, I know now why. Thank you so much.
I appreciate you making this video man! Did the job Myself on my wife’s 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Keep up the good work 🙏🏽
Glad I can help. I really appreciate your comment. Thank you.
Do you have a part number or where did you get the replacement part?
How long did it take
I’ll echo the other comments, thank you for making this for us garage mechanics trying to save a dollar. Very much appreciated!
Absolutely. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
The descriptive detail on that replacement was fenomenal!!! I will be doing the replacement on my fiancé's Jeep soon... Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻. Let me know how it goes. Good luck.
The one time I decided to let a shop do my oil change "fire stone" .. I started to see oil in my drive way a few weeks ago and lead me to this video .. all around the plastic neck at the bottom is filled with oil just like this one .. same look under the jeep .. started not shifting at high rpm .. then I was like let me check my dip stick.. nothing !! .. top it off with 5gals of oil just to save my engine shifted great on the way back home , jeeps parked til the fix .. parts on order thanks for making this video !
Probably they Over tighten the filter and cracked the housing. Good idea not to use it until it’s fixed, you don’t wanna lose the engine. Good luck with the job. Let me know how it goes. Thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment.
Just had this same problem with valvoline
Excellent video, was extremely helpful. Also changed the plugs, and cleaned the trottle body while i was in it. Thank you for taking the time to make the video, saved me a great deal of time and money.
Glad I can help. Thank you for watching.
How much was the part?
great work.. as old tech here, i always cover up those intake ports. very good video
Absolutely correct. Thank you.
Wow, great video from start to finish. I appreciate you sharing your talents with the RUclips Fam. The video confirmed this repair is a bit beyond my pay grade and skill. I had my go-to mechanic do the repair job. The cooler unit was ok, so we just did seal kit and intake manifold gaskets. After seeing this video, and all that is involved to just access the cooler unit, probably should have paid for new cooler as well.
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. Yea I recommend always changing the whole cooler since you doing all this labor. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻
Good video. But the hardest part is how to loosen the lower nut on the back bracket to be able to get the small studs above to get out of the bracket. How did you do it? In the middle of this now.
I used a long boxed end wrench.
Worst part of the whole job
This was a pain, ended up prying that plate holding the line off and slipping a box end on
Camera helps
sir fantastic video! i will be calling you on monday to make a appointment to bring my 2014 jeep grand cherokee limited to get this job done.
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻thank you. I appreciate your comment. Talk to you Monday.
Thank you sir, it was quite a hassle getting to some of the fasteners, but i got disassembled and the part arrived today.
I’m glad I watched this vid to see what tools to bring home 🙏🏻
thank you i was able to replace mine with your help took 3.5 hours
Great work. Thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment and feed back
I am very grateful for this video. This said, I want to stress to the average non-mechanic person that this is a difficult job with lots of challenges. I managed to get it done, but it is not as easy as it appears in the video. You will need some mechanical experience and a lot of tools. You will also need the grace of God (or a really long 13mm wrench) to get that lower frame nut loosened enough to free the upper intake. Ahh, removing the upper intake..... challenging in so many ways.... Also, the all aluminum version of the housing from Dorman (which I used) is slightly larger than OEM at the base due to an unused valve port. Because of this, it is very difficult to get it into the slot while repositioning the coolant hose. Otherwise, it is excellent quality. If I had to do this again, I would pay someone else. Regardless, thanks A2Z for the great assistance.
Quality video and appreciate the time put in. I'm nervous just watching you work with the intake manifold holes wide open. All the debri from you work will fall inaide and not to mention the rogue bolt!
Excellent video, from start to finish really saved me some money. Thank you
Glad it helped! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Did you disconnect the battery and/or drain the oil and coolant before or do you not need to for this replacement?
Should I drain the oil before hand? I am in the process of doing this, I replaced the thermostat housing and am doing a flush before installing the oil cooler, water is currently in my radiator. Would it be a good idea to wait until after the cooler is installed to add fresh coolant?
I have seen mopar is on the 3rd version of this oil cooler kinda of a joke 3rd time might be a charm great video.
🙏🏻🙏🏻
My jeep is booked in to have this job done in 2 weeks, unfortunately I haven't got the time to do it myself. The leak is at the beginning stage and I'm not seeing my oil going down except for drips on the exhaust. My question is how safe is it to drive it for the next couple weeks. Thanks you are a pro.
Check you oil level daily. The last think you want is to run out of oil. That leak can tune into a big leak in a min.
A couple tips.
There are 7 bolts on the upper intake. One is hidden behind the throttle body.
When re-installing the upper intake push the bolts up from the bottom and unsure then a few turns so they stay up out of your way when putting it back on. It will slide right in place.
The hardest part of the whole thing is the rear bracket nut loosen. You really really need an Extra long 13mm wrench. we're taking extra long!
Check out my other videos on jeeps. I mention those tips and more. Thank you
Really great detail and video. I checked the areas of my Jeep and this seems to be the problem. Now I better plan to fix it.
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 glad I can help. Thank you for watching.
Thank you 1000 times .
You video helped GREATLY ..a few tight spots,but all turned out good..had to improvise a tool ..but it all worked out .changed plugs while in that deep..I chose the aluminum filter canister instead the plastic one...THANK YOU AGAIN
Glad it all worked out the way it did. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment and feed back. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Which one you use?
ok maybe a silly question. But where was the failure with the oil cooler? Was it cracked? Where did the oil actually come from? thanks great video - going to use this to do mine. And I just changed my spark plugs 3 months ago but didn't notice this till I looked under the car and my pan was wet with oil just like you showed. ty where was the failure?
Well explained! Zoom Bubbles are very helpfull. All the best to grow your channel!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 Thank you. I appreciate your comment
At 6:25 not sure if its all models but there is an extra bolt on the manifold back and to the left. Hard to get to, mines A 2011 Laredo so not sure if it was removed in later models.
Why this part going bad why is the reason or cause to fail ? Thanks for your help
Should my Jeep be cold before this repair? Or can it be performed after running
You did a great job explaining and showing I wanna try to fix my car my self
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻thank you. Go for it. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you for this video. By far the best instructional video I have seen.
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment and feed back. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
That’s very recommendable of you. Can you also do a video on how to replace the seals on an oil cooler on a Jeep v6 Diesel engine.
Hi, where the coolant hose that comes out of the oil cooler ends?
Hello just asking if this kind of damage will cost 25 thousand dirhams.
I rather the metal housing good video
Just wondering why dnt you just change the gaskets if the vehicle was just leaking oil or is it better to change it all while you have it off ?
Those coolers are known to leak from different areas. The gasket/seals area underneath, between the aluminum and the plastic part or sometimes the plastic part cracks. If you’re sure it’s only leaking from the gasket area and you got low miles, just change that but if you got a car with 140-150k miles, I recommend you change the whole thing. Thank you for watching
What brand of clip remover is that at 3:51? My clip removers are too angled to remove the clip on the back bracket.
Hi , great video.
I am seeing oil inside the coolant reservoir, could this be caused by faulty oil cooler, someone recommended i have it changed.Car runs fine except temp rises sharply and the fan kicks in.
Is there a special socket to remove the bolts that attach the cooler? The heads look star shaped in the video.
Yes it’s E8 socket.
Did you drop the coolant prior to this video?
You can drain some of the coolant before starting this job but anyway coolant inside the cooler won’t drain. You can just do that job and you might leak out about a 1-2Q of coolant that you can top off later.
Hey bud. Im in the middle of my swap now on a '14 Ram 1500 3.6L. Same pentastar engine. I had the oil leak issue for awhile before I found out it was the cooler housing. After awhile the truck started having issues with accelerating. It would sort of bog down or hesitate at 3000 rpm. This is when i immediatley investigated the issue and started the swap. Do you think the new coolant housing will fix this issue. I brought into a mechanic for diagnosis and they didnt find any other codes either besides the oil pressure sensor. So im hoping the acceleration issues are just due to the part failing. What do you think?
Hey! Good stuff man. Good luck with the swap. Honestly I haven’t seen it cause that problem before but I can see oil pressure issues causing something like that. It will probably solve that problem if you have no other codes on the system. Let me know how it goes. Thank you.
I just replaced my oil cooler and everything went great but it started and idled rough then shut off now it cranks but no start.Any idea what can cause it ?
Nice video. What's the average labor time this job should charge?
I believe it’s rated for about 3h
What's the torx screws torque as the ALLDATA says they didn't make it..around 106 inch pouds
Great video! I was wondering if the coolant lines nuts need to be removed/ loosen to have the intake manifold remove. Im not sure I understand why you need to have that extra slack.
Because the intake manifold is stuck between the two brackets on the driver side and the one in the back by the pass side. You have to slack the brackets to get the manifold out. I hope it make sense.
Where did you buy this part from
Thank you for the tips and tricks this was helpful I replaced my gaskets oil cooler spark plugs and coil packs on my 2012 JGC
Glad I can help. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment
Thanks for the video! After a few hiccups I have been able to replace the oil cooler. The car had some hesitation to start (probably no oil running through) but it did start in 3 seconds and runs excellent! However, I am seeing oil drops under the engine and under the transmission at a very slow leak. I would appreciate any inputs/feedback. Thank you again!
The slow start it was probably the lake of gas. Oil drops might be from all the oil that previously leaked and trapped on the engine, transmission and frame.
I did this changeout and now my exhaust is putting out white smoke? Does this mean I have an intake gasket leaking?
Any codes? Might just be some oil or coolant got into the intake.
Thank you for putting this together. Currently working on this project, and curious what size the 5 bolts holding the oil cooler down are? Another video mentioned Torx bit E8? is this correct
Yes that’s correct. Thank you.
Is that a dealership only part?
Just subscribed. I love your videos! They are really detailed and helpful.
Quick questions, for the two 13mm nuts on the driver side, I'm having a real tough time reaching the one by the firewall. did you use a long wrench to reach it? I also noticed that this same nut has a bracket on the other side so I can't use the closed end of a wrench to get it.
Thanks for your help.
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate you subscription and comment. Yes a long gear ratchet works the best. The bracket in-front of it, you can just use a pry bar and just pry it out of the stud then loosen the nut. Let me know if you have any questions.
I thought it was the transmission leaking so I changed gasket and I came across this video looked at where u said jeep cooler leaks from between the two heads and there is a bad leak.
Glad I could help. Great you caught that before it’s too late.
So i have a question my friends, jeep a 2013, super similar is leaking coolant from the same area to where its filling coolant around the oil filter instead of oil, and also when filling the radiator coolant jus flushes out. and runs above the trans behind the cooler under the car. Can the oil cooler cause that issue as well?
What kind of prybar is that? Looks handy
I love that tool. It’s a long panel/Trim popper works great and makes you life easy around tight areas.
@@a2zautomasters862 Thanks brother great video
@@KnuckleSandwichMint 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. I appreciate your comment. Thank you for watching.
What are all the bolts size?
I believe the oil filter housing bolts were E8
Thanks for your video, after the replacement oil cooler my jeep still overheating, what could be happening? Thanks
Make sure the coolant is full, open bleeder screw on top of thermostat housing while car is cold and refill coolant until it starts coming out of the bleeder screw then close bleeder screw. Run car with heat on low setting and check if radiator fan kicks in when car gets hot. Let me know.
Oil filter housing and new intake gasket are only parts needed?
Yes. If tune up wasn’t done in a while change the spark plugs while you @ it.
Just for reference, year and mileage on the grand Cherokee ??? I have to replace mine, but the OEM part shows backordered in the whole country! Don’t want to put aftermarket junk in mine
It’s 2015 and I have seen them fail as early as 70K miles. Yea lately a lot of Chrysler products been on back order, not sure why. Could be COVID-19 related. I’m working on one now with a major engine knock, another common problem with 3.6L engine. Video probably coming next week. You should watch it if you have the car.
is the pressure sensor part of what is changed when you change the oil cooler? what's the ave cost? Thx so much. My Dad now passed away, was always my guide on my Jeep repairs.
Sorry about your dad. May he RIP. Yes there’re two sensors mounted on the cooler and both are getting changed with the cooler. Oil pressure and coolant temp. Thank you for watching. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
How much did the oil cooler cost you?
Had my oil cooler changed with a mopar unit in June and its now leaking even worse than before, oil is pouring out, 3-4 litres a day.
Will a bad oil cooler cause your Jeep engines to run hotter than normal?
It shouldn’t unless it’s leaking coolant from the coolant side of that cooler and you’re loosing coolant or the coolant temp sensor on the cooler it self is acting up.
Do you drain the oil & coolant before starting this process??
You can, to avoid contamination.
@@a2zautomasters862 did you in this video?
@@jimmyaltamirano9192 I believe in the video if I remember correctly. I drained about 1G of the coolant before the job was started then an oil change after the job was done.
Do you just pry up on the injector lock? Red tab.
Yes. Be little carful sometimes they just come out completely
The replacement I got didn’t come with sensors do u know part number on those. One I can’t Take off
I usually order the whole thing as one piece never had to get these sensors separate
Whats the torque and the torque sequence to putting this all back together?
Check out my other Jeep videos. I have other detailed videos with all torque specs. Thank you.
Doorman made a aluminum upgrade do you recommend me to replace it with that one?
I actually like doorman products but I have never used that cooler from them. I would think it’s a good product
Hey guys I have replaced this housing 2 times what can it cause for it to go bad ?????
Usually while doing the oil change if you over tighten the filter that can happen, also the difference in the heating rate between the plastic part and aluminum part of the cooler can cause these issues.
Is the oil cooler really the problem or is it the gaskets underneath? I’m asking because the oil cooler housings are in short supply
I have seen both fail. You should change the whole thing. Dorman makes a full aluminum cooler I believe
Was the vehicle throwing the P066DD OBD code?
There was no codes actually on that one, was just the leak.
@@a2zautomasters862 Ok! Thanks! getting the P066DD code and I'm praying this solves it. Don't want to pay to get the oil pump replaced. Excellent instructional video!
@@Kiddro22 how many miles on it?
@@a2zautomasters862 130k
@@Kiddro22 I haven’t seen an oil pump go bad on those at this miles. Most likely it’s oil filter housing.
Great video man, i have a question...will this cause your engine light to come on? I have the same issue with my 2018 grand cherokee and while i was changing the oil i noticed the oil pooling in the same areas so im sure the oil filter housing needs replaced but just wondering if this would cause my engine light to come on.
I noticed the oil leak and when I looked at the housing I could see the oil build up around the housing thats what prompted me to change the oil thinking the rubber ring for the oil filter was bad.
Thanks for watching yes in some cases check engine light will come on for oil pressure sensor and or coolant temp.
Awesome video! I will be doing this. By chance do you know the torque specs for the oil housing cooler itself, because I know the bottom is made of plastic so I don’t want to over tighten them
@conner muddy sorry for the late response. These are usually 12 NM or 106 IN LBS
@@a2zautomasters862 thank you and no worries
Excellent video, will be replacing this today. I noticed you didn't once mention torqueing (in/lbs) the bolts for the upper/lower, is it not a concern?
Adam Marineau thank you for watching. I really appreciate you comment. I did so many of them so I’m so used to change them and I use 1/4 drive ratchet so I can feel how tight it’s but if you actually look on the top of that manifold you will see it’s engraved 7-9nm that’s 60-80 in lb if you wanna torture them down.
@@a2zautomasters862 Nice! Thanks for the tip & reply!
Adam Marineau np. If you run into any issue don’t hesitate to ask.
How much you think its cost for that i just did my and cost me 1200 i don't know if its too much
Sounds like bit over priced but again different area and different labor rates. I’m at $160h here Jeep dealership few min away $325h so 🤷🏼♂️
Had mine replaced 40k miles ago. Having same issue again, and need it replaced again. Maybe I’ll give it a go this time.
Give it a shot. You will save some $$$ for sure
I'm getting mine changed as speak. Went with the aluminum one instead of plastic.
Will over tightening the oil filter housing cause the oil cooler to leak?
I honestly never seen that. The bolts will snap I believe before you can damage the cooler.
Thank you for going into great detail on which parts need to be loosed or removed. Question: Does the oil and coolant need to be drained in order to replace this part?
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. You should do an oil change after the job. No need to drain the oil first but you can drain about 1/2 a gallon or so from the coolant so it wouldn’t make a big mess when you remove the cooler. Thank you for watching. I appreciate your comment.
Thanks again. What size wrench was used for the two brackets on the side?
@@n7commandersteve you’re welcome. 10mm up too 13mm on the bottom.
@@a2zautomasters862 I was wondering the same thing.
What happened to the old housing/cooler to cause it to fail? I’m hoping to repair mine versus replacing it
Mainly the O rings / seals between the cooler and the block go first. U can just change them but I don’t recommend doing that. It’s not an easy job, you don’t wanna do that and few months later it fails from another spot.
Don't bother with aftermarket coolers. Plastic is very brittle. Either get OEM or full gasket set for DIY rebuild.
SerenoOunce OEM is usually the way to go. 👍🏻
If that part (oil filter cooler) gets damaged could it create any oil and coolant mixture? My jeep started overheating and when I checked I found oil all mixed up in my coolant reservoir and radiator !
I have never seen it go bad and mixed oil and coolant but it’s a possibility.
@@a2zautomasters862 I think that was the problem because the Jeep doesn’t overheat anymore, and it was bad I was worried I ain’t gonna lie!
@@victorrivera7075 that’s great man. 💪🏻💪🏻. Thanks for the update and thank you for watching.
Currently having the same problem with my keep 2017 , I changed the oil filter housing they told me it’s a faulty part & I have to change it again
Thanks for this video. Can you please list the tools you used? Mainly the cordless nut driver and the long pry bar. Not sure if they are the official names. Thanks
Thank you for watching. Most of my tools I’m using are SnapOn tools. The cordless nut driver is a 1/4 drive long neck SnapOn, the other shorter one is also SnapOn but with a shorter neck and it’s a 3/8 drive and the long pry bar is actually a long panel popper.
Hi im no mechanic and i have some doubts i have a grand cherokee laredo 2015 and the trasmission cooler is leaking trasmission oil and the mechanic said that he has to empty the a/c gas so he can remove the old transmission cooler
That’s 100% true. The transmission fluid cooler in part of the AC condenser. It’s split in half the top part is for the transmission fluid and the bottom part is for the AC.
@@a2zautomasters862 thank you for the asnwer and your time
@@monokendo absolutely. Np.
Is there no way to just replace the o rings on the oil cooler ?
Yes they actually do sell a kit for that. Just make sure the actual cooler/ housing isn’t cracked and you good to go. 854.020 Elring is the part # for the seal kit. Good luck.
Hi, I know this is a older video but wanted to ask ... Can you confirm you do not have to drain the oil or coolant ?
Hey, coolant will leak out about 1/2 G or so if you don’t drain it. I recommend a new oil change after this job just in case of coolant contaminant.
Best to just change out the spark plugs during this if its been awhile. Might as well since it makes it so you dnt have to do that entire breakdown again any time soon.
Yup 100%.
what caused the oil cooling housing to fail?
Few reasons. 1. Over tightening the filter with every filter /oil change replacement
2. The housing is made of plastic and sits on an aluminum cooler the difference in head exchange between aluminum and plastic causes failures.
3. The seals on the bottom of the cooler loses elasticities, get crushed and become hard plastic and starts to leak.
@@a2zautomasters862 i see, thanks
Hey I’m
Having this issue with my jeep grand Cherokee that the oil is mixing with the coolant but I check my engine oil is fine than my oil temp is just slowly rising also the oil level was low
Hey, oil pressure is always higher than coolant pressure. So oil will always make its way to the coolant. Most likely your cooler is damaged internally.
@@a2zautomasters862 i change it and it fix the problem
@@josueflores4442 it’s always good when everything works out right. Thank you for your feedback.
Had drain the coolant had coolant spewing from the two lines when I took the cooler out
Yea that’s normal. Some coolant get trapped inside the engine and wouldn’t drain completely out of the radiator and will come out when the hoses are removed.
Great video! I just did mine, and my finger tips are still sore 😊! I am having trouble starting the car after this change. I went over every single connection, electric as well as hoses and all nuts and bolts. A lot of smoke came from off the cats when I started it, and it’s running very rough. Also, the auto start is shutting off right after the crank… any idea what could be the issue… ? Did anyone else experience this after doing this housing replacement ? Thx
Can you scan for any codes? Make sure you plugged the throttle body, air temp sensor and MAP sensor on the pass side back of intake manifold. Let me know.
I just change my oil filter houseing but my jeep is pu putting do u think I mite need a throttle body ?
Did you have that problem before you do the job? Or it happened after the job?
Id upgrade to all aluminum no plastic
What about the fuel injectors? Those have to be removed as well
You don’t have to remove the fuel injectors, just remove the whole lower intake manifold with the injectors one piece. Thank you for watching.
Surprised to not see torque wrench or torque values addressed. Looked up and found lower manifold is 106 inch pounds, upper manifold is 89 inch pounds. Use typical "cross pattern" tightening sequence.
Great video, than you for posting. One question: Did you replace the coolant o-ring (the green one) on the intake? I'm going to do mine and don't see it with the OEM cooler...
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. I’m not sure what green O ring you’re talking about there’s no O rings on the intake that Im aware of.
@@a2zautomasters862 its the one right at the front of the engine...where the coolant runs to. the opposite end of where the hose goes.
@@DonkeyKong2222 I’m sorry but can’t picture any green Orings for the coolant system. If you can plz take a pic of it and send it to my IG or Facebook. I can check it out.
@@a2zautomasters862 SO i did the job today. The new unit comes with an o ring on it. so theres nothing i had to worry about. THanks again for the vid. it helped
@@DonkeyKong2222 that’s great. Yes the oil filter housing comes with all new seals. Than you for watching and I appreciate you comment.
I'm having trouble with the back bottom bracket bolt. There's the coolant line that goes over the bolt. Is there a extra little nut on top of that holding the coolant line on?
It shouldn’t be a nut there. The line bracket is a tight fit around the bolt. Take your time and pry it out. Be carful don’t pry against anything plastic that might break.
@@a2zautomasters862 Its right up against the bolt. I'm just worried I'll hurt the coolant line.
@@tfgarvin122 the lines are aluminum so it’s little forgiving, not as strong as steel, so if you pry against the bracket it self and not the line it should come out.
@@a2zautomasters862 thank you!
@@tfgarvin122 np. Let me know how it goes. 👍🏻