Hello everyone! For more help on this topic, check out the companion guide I wrote for this video on the Fig Boss blog, here: www.figboss.com/post/why-are-my-figs-not-ripening
Ross, I have now referred several Fig growers in the FaceBook Fig Groups to your channel in answer to their questions that I know that you have covered in various videos. YOU ARE TRULY.... THE FIG BOSS!!!
Hey Ross I’ve got some concerns my self about my figoin tree, I purchased it as a graft on a violet de Bordeaux and the graft always seemed not that we’ll done and now there’s signs of infection some sorta drying out on the cambrian layer and only half of the graft on one side seems still be living the figoin branch of skinny but it’s about two feet long now…what should I do try to root it out or graft it or let it loose all its leaves try to over winter it and risk loosing one of my most prides specimens 😢
When I started growing fig trees, I took your advice to grow varieties that produce early if you have a shorter growing season. Campaniere, LSU Champagne, LdA have no more figs on there branches. My I-258, Goccia D’Oro, and one of my VDB trees have figs on there branches. I put these trees in my 10’x13’ greenhouse with a heater to warm night time temps, and I’m getting ripened figs on the last days of September and into October. Thanks for your advice over the past 4 years of my fig journey!!!
It is really a pity for figs not ripening through to the end. Could they possibly be removed to the green house and continue to grow while the cooler weather is approaching?
I live in Portland, Oregon. The early summer crop is better. I know it fruits on prior year growth. Would it work to prune after that crop? Would there be more growth after so the following summer it would fruit?
So basically your saying theres nothing u can do otherthan taking a blowtorch and warming the soil or moving south. I have about 50 figs the size of tennis balls that will probably not fully ripen this year. Waste
@@boldibbbwe use to do late night bonfires in the kiwi orchard when it was late in the season and the cold snap started early. Obviously not so close that the plant gets damaged but close enough to drive some heat around... we are burning off clipping and mulch from the previous season so the wood is mostly dry and it's directly on the ground with no firebricks but we keep the pile raked up and the edges clear and have two ibc tanks of water in close proximity incase the wind kicks up and we need to end the party early. The other trick home gardeners use is to stack a wall of breeze blocks or concrete blocks near enough on the north side so that it catches sun all day long and keep it warmer for longer. You can do it as a temporary thing just to get you to the end of the season. As it's probably not practical having a 4-5ft wall randomly in the garden/orchard. You can also do the same with ibc tanks if you have them on pellets (and you have a pellet fork or tractor) but they hold less heat... we wrap ours in black pellet wrap to stop uv and to keep the temp in hope that helps 😊
Hello everyone! For more help on this topic, check out the companion guide I wrote for this video on the Fig Boss blog, here: www.figboss.com/post/why-are-my-figs-not-ripening
Ross, I have now referred several Fig growers in the FaceBook Fig Groups to your channel in answer to their questions that I know that you have covered in various videos. YOU ARE TRULY.... THE FIG BOSS!!!
Thank you!
Hey Ross I’ve got some concerns my self about my figoin tree, I purchased it as a graft on a violet de Bordeaux and the graft always seemed not that we’ll done and now there’s signs of infection some sorta drying out on the cambrian layer and only half of the graft on one side seems still be living the figoin branch of skinny but it’s about two feet long now…what should I do try to root it out or graft it or let it loose all its leaves try to over winter it and risk loosing one of my most prides specimens 😢
Stake it. Grafts that only take on one side will inevitably break. Take cuttings or air layer.
Mine just stay small & green….fall off in Sept.
When I started growing fig trees, I took your advice to grow varieties that produce early if you have a shorter growing season. Campaniere, LSU Champagne, LdA have no more figs on there branches. My I-258, Goccia D’Oro, and one of my VDB trees have figs on there branches. I put these trees in my 10’x13’ greenhouse with a heater to warm night time temps, and I’m getting ripened figs on the last days of September and into October. Thanks for your advice over the past 4 years of my fig journey!!!
Glad you're seeing success!!
Why do my figs have dark spots on them and they are shriveling up. Not ripening. Phoenix AZ thanks
It is really a pity for figs not ripening through to the end. Could they possibly be removed to the green house and continue to grow while the cooler weather is approaching?
I am based in the UK and they form nicely, but they are hard, and then they fall all of the sudden :-(
Very helpful. We have three fig trees if two types
I get 5 still green
Well done!
I live in Portland, Oregon. The early summer crop is better. I know it fruits on prior year growth. Would it work to prune after that crop? Would there be more growth after so the following summer it would fruit?
I don't recommend that. Instead, in the winter do thinning cuts to eliminate some older wood every year. Don't head back the branches.
Thanks @@RossRaddi
You the goat ❤
Thanks and appreciate it when you post these types of vids - timely and relevant! Any thoughts regarding the ‘ol olive oil trick? -Fig Lover
Try it! It works, but I like poking them in the side with the needle trick more.
@@RossRaddi 🤔… puncturing the fig? How many holes / how often?
So much useful info packed into 6 minutes!
Thanks bud!
So basically your saying theres nothing u can do otherthan taking a blowtorch and warming the soil or moving south. I have about 50 figs the size of tennis balls that will probably not fully ripen this year. Waste
They might. How much time do you have left before frost? If they're in the last ripening stage, they may only need 30 days.
@@RossRaddi live on long island so maybe 25 days or so. Problem is now sun is lowere so plants only getting maybe 3 or 4hrs direct sun
@@boldibbbwe use to do late night bonfires in the kiwi orchard when it was late in the season and the cold snap started early. Obviously not so close that the plant gets damaged but close enough to drive some heat around... we are burning off clipping and mulch from the previous season so the wood is mostly dry and it's directly on the ground with no firebricks but we keep the pile raked up and the edges clear and have two ibc tanks of water in close proximity incase the wind kicks up and we need to end the party early.
The other trick home gardeners use is to stack a wall of breeze blocks or concrete blocks near enough on the north side so that it catches sun all day long and keep it warmer for longer. You can do it as a temporary thing just to get you to the end of the season. As it's probably not practical having a 4-5ft wall randomly in the garden/orchard. You can also do the same with ibc tanks if you have them on pellets (and you have a pellet fork or tractor) but they hold less heat... we wrap ours in black pellet wrap to stop uv and to keep the temp in hope that helps 😊
Now i have a new problem. 9 inches of rain and alot of my figs swelled and busted open. Millions of ants gorging themselves.