BMW F10 POWER LOSS - EASY FIX 520D F30, POOR MPG / INLET MANIFOLD / SWIRL FLAPS PROBLEM 5 SERIES B47
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Little quirk with the 'Swirl flap controller bar / arm' slipping off / out of position on the 2.0 litre B47A Engine's inlet manifold.
I eventually removed the offending inlet manifold at approx 165,000 miles, and replaced it with a low mileage (2,000 ish miles) 2nd hand one. The bar slipped off at approx 130,000 miles, and then after being clipped back on, it was still in place, where it's supposed to be when the manifold was removed at 165,000 miles. Perhaps I was unlucky, or perhaps this is a design floor and a more common problem.
The manifold was not removed because of the problem highlighted in this video, but more down to preventative maintenance as the vehicle does high mileage and was throwing up some inlet manifold related codes upon scanning.
This issue could affect Inlet manifold's on 2014 / 2015 / 2016 / 2017/ 2018 / 2019 / 2020 BMW B47 Engines. Easily fixed.
Below are the problems (not many) that I've had with the vehicle outside of routine maintenance / servicing, since new.
I must say that it has been a fantastic, reliable and cheap to maintain vehicle so far, and should surpass 200k miles with ease.
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I service the vehicle every 15k miles. All filters and oil are replaced. I always use a 'Forte Oil flush' to flush the old oil and any contaminants out during service. Fuel filter replaced every 30k miles (every 2nd service).
I use 'Quantum Longlife 3, 5W/30 Fully Synthetic Oil' and always have done.
I drop a can of 'BG244' injector cleaner into my fuel tank every 10k - 15k miles. Expensive, but very good at maintaining the injectors / fuel system and keeping it deposit / coke free.
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85,300 miles
Coolant Leak
Small part of coolant pipe replaced.
Leak was due to friction / manufacturer error. See my other video.
99,500 miles
New Oxygen Sensor (Post Cat) fitted
Fault code showing and poor MPG / Performance
144,000 miles
Clipped swirl valve controller bar back on
147,300 miles
Drivetrain Fault appeared 😭
Turns out it was DPF 'End of life' warning. A pre-progarmmed warning by BMW to try and get you to replace your (very expensive) DPF at a certain mileage.
Local Independent BMW Specialists reset the computer (basically told the car that It had a new one fitted). The DPF itself was still functioning perfectly with normal backbox pressure, and was clean etc. No need to replace whatsoever. No issues since (20k miles later and counting)
148,200 miles
Rear Pad predicted mileage started playing up.
It would only reset to 12k - 14k miles upon Pad replacement, which is ALOT less then it should do (30k - 50k)
Local independent BMW Specialist uploaded some sort of relevant ECU update or reflash, and reset to 32k. Problem sorted.
152,900 miles
EGR Cooler replaced
Manufacturer Recall - Done under warranty at main dealer
158,500 miles
New inlet manifold put on
161,080 miles
Near side rear wheel bearing replaced
161,085 miles
New EGR Valve
I replaced this as the EGR cooler had been done under recall / warrantee, so thought I might as well give that area of the engine a new lease of life. Pierburg EGR valve which is same as original BMW Part (just without the BMW Logo) was pretty cheap (£100ish)
164,450 miles
Flooding in front passenger footwell during heavy rain
Air conditioning / condenser pipe had come loose and was leaking condensed water into footwell. (UK Car so passenger side is on the left)
Pipe reattached. Problem sorted.
Vehicle is currently on 170k miles.
Automatic Transmission oil / fluid has never been changed. Drives like new, and still has the original brake discs (rotars) all round. No problems to report.
Mileage at the moment? And if you’ve had anything else that’s gone wrong?
@@piovo5222 Current mileage: 189k
No problems whatsoever. Just routine servicing and tyres. Still the original transmission fluid / oil, and gearbox Still smooth 😎 👌
I replaced the original brake discs at 183k miles, as felt it time. That's it. Doing less mileage at the moment due to covid though
@@andy9878 safe to say it’s been a good car so far, gonna be looking for one myself soon. You have the se right? How does it ride the bumps?
@@piovo5222 Yeah, it's been fantastic. Highly recommend the 520d. But deffo go for the B47 engine if you get one (2014 onwards), as seems to be more reliable than it's predecessor, the N47.
SE seems less crashey over the bumps then the M Sport. Seats also more comfy. Mine does NOT have the air suspension, however a friend of mine has a 2015 520d, M Sport Tourer, and his air suspension has failed on approx 60k miles. Has sunk so low on the rear that wheels are almost rubbing.
@@andy9878 update? sorry for being nosey
Thank you for the video, it really helped me. I was about to do a swirl flap delete as I thought they were done. Took me 10 min to pop the control arm back on without removing intake manifold.
Breakers always say that the donor car have couple of thousand miles on them 😂. Intake manifold can be easily cleaned.
I HAD THIS PROBLEM ! the car had black smoke out the exhaust and less power ! i think it stays in the closed postion.or sometimes.i removed the swirflaps so i will never have this problem again! now it drives very good ! gone smoke and the big power is back
Thank you! I managed to push it back without dismantling the intake manifold
Hello, can you please give some details on how you did it?
How??
Hi
very useful video. could u please make a video on MAF, MAP Filters and EGR VALVE location and cleaning on B47 engine. that will be really helpful. Regards
I had an identical problem. I made some steel wire string that keeps the lever from falling off. When I removed the intake manifold the flaps were closed. When I pulled the lever, then the valves were in the open position, which is good, but I'm not sure if the actuator works. in any case the valves are now open so even if the actuator does not work, at least I will have a constant air flow on all 8 holes. Diagnostics Ista describes it as a fault that does not show an error on the control panel. In my opinion, this is stupid, because many people do not go to an authorized service and are therefore not aware that their engine has a problem. I also have a problem with the Lambdasonda, and I noticed that this is a common problem on B47 engines. He does not report this error on the vehicle control panel either.
Kako si otkrio kvar na labda sondi?
Na kojoj kilometraži ?
Koji auto je u pitanju jel 520d?
Meni se ovo desilo na X1 F48, kako si napravio od zice drzac da vise ne moze da otpadne?
Thank you for sharing.
Perfect example.
ThankU ma man, on that note why not to get rid of the swirl flaps at all
You swapped the intake manifold because it was clogged? How come you didn't clean it?
It was high mileage and was throwing up an intermittent actuator fault code, so couldn't be doing with cleaning it etc. Found a low mileage 2nd hand one (less then 2,000 miles) for £150.00 so to me was a no brainer to just chuck a new one on. Each to their own though ay.
Great video Thank you
Hi Andy. Greta video.
Can you remember what fault code you got for your post cat o2 sensor. How much did it affect the performance of the car?
I don’t have an engine light but when I scan it, I get a code for post cat 02 sensor and car doesn’t accelerate very fast. Thanks
Very useful , thanks 👍
Thats brilliant thank you for sharing it with us, have the same car and engine. My post cat o2 is also complaining but so far i have no mpg issues so been ignoring.
I was hoping to ask you couple of questions.
Does your temperature gauge flatulate at all where it doesn't sit bang on 100 all the time and it will drop especially in sport mode.
Also did you have any problems with steering rack? mine had a replacement at 32k and problem returned at 45k where it would knock when the weather is hot
Hiya Peter, just seen your comment - apologies for the delay in response.
I've never had any issues with temp gauge. The needle always gets upto about 12 O'clock (points straight up / using a clock hand analogy) and never fluctuates from there once engine is upto temp etc.
I've also not had any issues with the steering rack as far as I'm aware. No knocks. The only sound I ever get relating to the steering, is if I corner extremely aggressively / fast and hard to the left (on a roundabout or something) then there's a slight grind noise which arises from drivers side front wheel area as the weight of the car lurches over it. Probably something rubbing, but perhaps rack related!? 🤔
Hope this helps, sorry can't be of more use to you.
Also, replacing the post cat Oxygen sensor cleared the fault for me, and has never returned since. It is a rather expensive part (£225) for something so small and pathetic 😭
@@andy9878 Thank you very much for making time to reply. I have had a software update which thought to be causing this but i gear my thermostat might be gone.
@@PeterParker-ht8xz Hi Peter, did you ever find the problem to the fluctuating coolant temp?
My car just stops driving no acceleration mid drive now and again no power at all then comes back seconds later strange?
My eml is on fault code swirl flap controller position sensor signal too low what would you recommend?
Hi, what are your views on this engine also to get to that mileage what have you changed maintenance, parts and servicing wise. Also have you ever thought of doing swirl flap delete instead. Thank you
Hi Mohammad, I've just posted all maintenance and my thoughts on the car above. Hope it helps!
You bought a new manifold because it got coked up? Did you not think about cleaning it?
Hiya George, Yeah, the car was intermittently throwing up actuator / swirl flaps related error codes, so I found an almost brand new one off a car with rear end damage (2,000 ish miles) for £150, which I thought was a bargain, as they're £600 - £750 new from dealer. Just saved alot of labour and messing around as could have spent ages cleaning and de-coking to find the actuator is the problem.
Is any way that you can fix that , or is unrepairable????
Yeah, literally just push (click) it back into place. Mine never slipped off again after that. Thanks
Good video thanks 👌🏼
I have a 2016 318d and I have rattling noise/vibrations in the cabin, coming from the engine. Sometimes it goes away for 5-10 minutes and comes back. When I put my ear on the airbox I can hear resonating rattling sound. When it goes away, when I put my ear on the airbox, I only hear air flowing in and no other clonking sounds. Could this issue be connected with the manifold?
Thank you!
My old e60 530d I blanked off my swirl flaps because apparantly they were badly designed and could break off and get sucked into engine.
Currently have 525d f10 but do these still have swirl flap issues as in the older e60's??
Did you get any fail on the dashboard or when made diagnose with a PC?My car losses power for some seconds but it doesnt appear any fail?
Hiya. Nope nothing appeared on dash. Zero warning lights
Hello, from 1st to 2nd gear i have like a small push from behind , did you had something like this? I have the same car as you... thanks
i have the same problem. when put computer to the car. its says i have a oxygen senser after the cat gone. should i change that senser and then try it
Hi Azhar, Yes I had the same fault code a couple years ago... Post Cat Oxygen sensor. I changed mine, the sensor was a RIP off, as can only be purchased from BMW. £223 (part only) 😭 It did improve my MPG again, but didnt happen instantly as the car takes a short while to relearn everything is good again.
Hello! Can you remove the swirl flaps on this engine? I have a 520D b47d20 and my swirls flaps are a bit loose, I want to delete them.
Andy how much did it cost u ? please, i have to replace my manifold, thanks
Can the swirl flap actuator be removed, without remioving the entire inlet manifold ?
Yes, 3 bolts
I've got a 2014 f30 and I have the same problem. Bad mpg, its laggy in between gear change, mpg meter stays very low and moves slowly or doesn't move for 10-15 sec. If I put my foot down then it changes. Any advice? Thanks
Hi Foy, you could try an adaptive throttle reset first...
1) Hit start button once to turn on power (Don't start the engine)
2) Then press the accelerator down to the floor for 5 - 15 secs
3) Then hit start button once to turn off power
4) Then remove foot from accelerator
5) Then waite for 2 - 3 minutes (sometimes you will hear a very faint mechanical / resetting sound behind the dash after the 2 mins
4) Then start the engine like normal and try it out!
This process basically resets the car's throttle sensitivity, which it learnt from the drivers style of driving. ie someone who always drives and accelerates slowly in eco mode will have a less responsive / sharp throttle then a more aggressive driver, who lives in sport mode and always acclerates hard.
Worth a try first!
@@andy9878 alright I'll try doing that and will get back to you. Thanks buddy
@@andy9878 hey buddy unfortunately that has not solved the problem.
@@TheFoysol123 😭😔
Sounds like EGR valve problem. If it is, the valve needs cleaning or replaced. Can cost between £400-£500 for replacement.
I was driving my bmw f20 2015 facelift on the motorway and all of a sudden I lost power especially in the higher gears everything is just very sluggish and slow it feels like the car has no power and it's being held back. Also I can sometimes have my foot to the floor and the speed goes down. I took it in to have my service and was told I had a error code for swirl flaps but nothing else, could this be the problem for my power or could it be something else. Any help would be appreciated.
I'm having this exact same issue at the moment. I have a 116d F20 2015 sport. And even in sport its struggling. Its very frustrating. I'm going to take it too my local garage and mention the issues and see what the damage is.
Hi guys, i have the same problems for months now. I have also an bmw f20 2015 facelift. I have power loss. I connect bimmerlink app and it shows the 'swirl flap mechanically defective' error (2C3200). Can you keep us update if you know more about the problem/fix?
@@Assyriiianboy I've taken my F20 2015 to a garage, and they quoted me £990.00 for a replacement of the inlet manifold and o2 sensor 😨. (£660 for new inlet manifold and £180 for a new sensor + labour in there somewhere). I was told that the next best solution was to have a swirl flap delete carried out. I was told by another mechanic that it could possibly be due to a fault o2 sensor and not the manifold. The F20 (B37 I think) differs in construction to what's in the video. There may be a solution were you can map out the engagement of the swirl flaps, leaving them in a permanently open position - like a swirl flap delete, but I'm waiting to see if this is at all possible.
@@RoastBeef553 I went to a garage that only works with bmw cars (not bmw itself). He said also intake manifold probably and cost around €700 and another piece that connects with it another €700. But that's to expensive and im not sure why replace al these things. I asked if he can open the intake manifold and look for a problem maybe too much dirt on the flaps or something defective or broken I made an appointment 19th of april. Too busy at the moment he said but im not surprised i mean its a bmw, problem cars lol
@@Assyriiianboy I'd be interested to know how you get on. It's looking like I may just get the intake manifold replaced.
"Automatic Transmission oil / fluid has never been changed."
Doesn't this concern you?
No not really. Once the car reaches 200k miles, I'll probaly retire it. BMW say the transmission fluid lasts a "lifetime" and shouldn't be changed etc, So that spiked my curiosity as to what a "lifetime" actually is. It's probably 100k - 125k miles in reality, but thought I'd experiment. It's still driving perfectly at 180k miles. Sometimes disrupting the dynamics of a high mileage box by replacing the oil with new and dislodging sludge etc can actually cause more problems then it potentially fixes.
Cost to replace oil is between £350 - £450 (this oil is very expensive)
I suspect I could get a reconditioned or salvaged box fitted for not much more.
Like I say. It's an experiment. We shall see. I'll update the info on here if it gives up / fails
@@andy9878 that anwers my concern as well, cheers
@@kevinzhan8393 Glad this helps Kevin. FYI it's on 195k and still no issues - orginal transmission fluid / oil. I've been told that signs it may need changing will be when it holds onto gears longer then meant to before shifting, and gets clunky when cold etc. I've not experienced any of the above yet
@@andy9878 Thats great of you. Really appreciate your answer. Searched so much online couldn’t decide whether or not doing it cuz there are lefts and rights who say the opposite
@@kevinzhan8393 No probs at all. Ultimately, I think it comes down to your own level of comfort / or anxiety on the matter. I can only speak of my own experience.
Some people are overly cautious. They are the same cuprits with servicing etc as well... Changing their engine oil every 5k - 7k miles in engines designed for 15k - 20k intervals. If it makes them happy and they can afford to do it financially, then I guess there's nothing wrong with that. Good luck though whatever you decide to do 😊👍🏻👌🏻
How much was the new inlet manifold
Hiya Bruce, I purchased a low mileage one from Ebay for £150.
It had been taken off a car with approx 2,000 miles on the clock, which had been written off with rear end damage.
This seemed cheaper and easier than cleaning the old one, and as previously mentioned it was also throwing up an intermittent actuator code as well 🙄
Yeah mine is also showing a code of swirl flap failure. Just been quoted £625 for a new inlet manifold and labour
@@bruceyoung2705 That's better than main dealer, who would probably quote you that just for the manifold - not including labour.
Good luck whatever you do - but think it's only an hour or two labour to fitt, but I'm not a mechanic and cannot remember exactly.
Car tickling 200k now and still no probs with that 2nd manifold put on
I can see the blank on EGR
Just get rid of the flaps if thay brake and I promise you one day they will causing £££££ of engin damage thay dont serve much purpose only an emissions add on get them off asap and give the manifold a good clean
You can just delete those swirl flats 😅
Hi any faults codes for this issue?
Hiya. Nothing on the dashboard to indicate a problem. ie there was no engine management lights, however upon plugging in OBD2 code reader - it did show some sort of actuator / swirl flap code if i remember correctly. Even after clipping the arm back on as shown in the video, I think the actuator code remained until I eventually replaced the actual inlet manifold
@@andy9878 please watch this one
ruclips.net/user/shorts1AKquMXQs2I?feature=share
@@dawnicz5968 Not sure on that one I'm afraid mate. Mine deffo didn't make that sucking / hissing sound, so could be something else 😫
My code is p22ae o2 sensor on mine but on my mechanics he got the swirl flaps and manifold cod
But why you just didn't take out this shit?
You haven't fixed anything.
You just swaped the intake and noticed that the arm comes off.. and decided to tell the rest of the world what great discovery you made..
Try harder next time for more...
Fair point. In my defence, I meant tht clicking the arm bk on was an easy fix, which was done on mine previously, and then went on to do tens of thousands more miles before I changed the manifold. Actuator fault was the reason for putting a new one on. Not the arm. I probably didn't make tht very clear. Video was to help others see where it is and how to click it bk on if need be. Thanks for the comment tho👍
@@andy9878 No problem, Probably I was a bit to harsh..
thank you for the video anyway. 👍Actually I was trying to understand, searching YT, how bad these manifolds are.. in terms of wear out on that flap's mechanism. I am driving an older BMW model with factory fitted manifold and I was looking for a friend of mine that has N47.. to advise him about how can he fix the issue with wear out that he is complaining, or at least noticed about..