How to Break in a New Generator
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- How-to: Step by Step. Before you can break in your generator, you need oil, gas, and a few other supplies. Start the lubrication process. Remove the spark plug. Add the oil. Add the fuel. The first hour. Change the oil. The second hour. Change the oil again.It does take a few hours of your time but the process for properly breaking in a generator is quite easy, even if you don’t know much about engines. Follow these steps and your generator should be working well for years to come. How to Break in a New Generator.
This is the most southern thing I've ever seen.... and I'm from Alabama.
Man! I'm on step two of break in. No lie the first 30 min oil drain looked like the Wizard of Oz with so many sparkles and the magnetic dip stick had loads on it. Thanks for the great advice!!!
Best break-in video I’ve ever seen.
Breaking in a second generator with the help of this video. Thanks so much my man.
Appreciated the video and showing us the specifics. A lot of guys get lazy and just talk through instead of moving the camera to show us details.
Thanks!
This guy is the Master, he knows what he is talking about!!!!
This dude knows his stuff and is a good teacher. I'm using this method for my Champion, thank you Sir.
Excellent break-in video! Just bought a 5500w Champion geny and gonna start the break-in shortly. Your vid is far better detail than the manufacturer instructions...they simply advise a 5hr break-in with variable load and change oil after the 5hrs.
Thank you for the video and the education. I used your advice to break in my new generator over the last couple of days. I had a thought about putting a load on the generator: Like in a car, don't use the cruise control for the first XXX miles, right? I attached a 2k watt toaster oven to my generator for the loaded portion of the run. The toaster oven heats up (in baking mode to 400), making the generator work harder, then reaches temperature and cools off (taking the load off of the generator) for a while. Then the whole process repeats, seems like a good idea to me. Have a good weekend.
You are a man of honor! Thank you so much! I have two Sportsman 2000i inverter generators new in the box that were purchased over a year ago and haven't gotten around to opening them and breaking them in yet. I will be doing it soon though and using your method. I wish I could be sitting on that pontoon boat of yours in the middle of a lake. Thanks again for posting your video.
Lucas is essentially putting glue in your engine.I've worked on engines for over 30 years and Lucas has been responsible for much of the damage I've seen.I cannot believe it is still being sold.It traps metal particulates and causes them to wear gears and cylinder walls.Only thing it's good for is an old worn out engine with bad ring seals.It is thick enough to help compression. But will not stop degradation. I would never recommend it to be used in a new engine.
That comment is gold. I'm not the only one who thought that Lucas oil is trash.
Quaker state is also utter garbage. He essentially mixed trash with sewage and broke in an engine with it.
I am about to break in a 4500 watt champion dual fuel and based on your video Im going to change oil after the first half hour rather than a full hour.
I did get a magnetic dipstick too
Which oil did you end up going with
I wish I could talk like this guy, It would make me famous, love the video. Thanks.
You Sir are the generator break in specialist ! Very good video. I learned a lot! Thank you for posting this!
Nice Video .... when you do something you always do it right...
tks i allways domy best..
Dont let the slow talkin fool ya! Man this video is gold. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. Quick question does it matter what gas you use to break it in? Do I waste my money on that non ethanol stuff or really doesnt matter?
The slow talkin' is ideal for people like me who are slow absorbing, lol. Canadians love our southern cousins.
No it doesn’t matter the gas as long as it is at least 85 octane and fresh.. The ethanol is a problem for storage not running it…
Only use non ethanol your cArb will love you
Long term, I’d definitely not use ethanol….
Great video, couldn’t help stop laughing when you said Deep purple (smoke in the water) instead of royal purple.
This guy needs to make more videos! Great video, the way he talks is awesome. This guy should record my voice mail. Lol
How about his voice on Waze?
Love your video. I am grateful for you sharing your experience with us. I can tell you are a man that knows what he is talking about. Keep making them video. Thank you
Thank god Larry the cable guy showed me how to break in my generator. Jokes aside, thanks!
This man is a genius. I followed this step-by-step. Brand new generator and I had silver flakes just like he did
Great video man! I did essentially this. Did 2 oil changes with mineral oil then Put some 10w30 full synthetic in on the third change. Added some zinc oil treatment like you did before firing it up, ran it for an hour with no load, changed oil, then ran it for a couple more hours running a miter saw intermittently, changed the oil, ran for maybe 2 more hours and did the final break in oil change with some good ole supertech full synthetic. I ran mine only on propane so far. It's a sportsman 8750 inverter and it's working great so far and getting ready to hook it to the 50a port on my house and put a load on it!
Make sure you run some gasoline through it, too. I just watched a video of a guy who only ran propane through his duel-fuel and the inside of his gas tank was rusted because of the moisture the propane was letting off.
GREAT help! Nice detail. I also used a hair dryer for additional watts as I upped my power use out of the generator.
The best explanation of a break in thanks brother
The ZINC additive is somthing alot of people forget about. Also of your going to store the generator it's not a bad idea to put a little oil down the cylinder if your not going to be using for awhile
Lots of good information!
Thanks a lot my brother!
❤️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸❤️
Well Mr Southern Ideas I like what you do man and what you talk about you know your stuff you are NOT full of B/S and I have learned much from you & your video's and your ideas thank you very much your stuff is as good as gold.........I had a look at some others video's and works and it is clear that you can see that they have copied your ideas then try to pass them off as their own... (Yes their are some others out there who are full of it B/S and always looking to steal someones else thunder).
tks robert for the nice words
The silver flakes are common for cast iron lined heads. Perfectly normal. After the first oil change, they slowly go away.
Good vid, most think just start it, but you need to put a load on it as well.
right buzz
Now, I guess I better change the oil in my new generator
it sure matters
they start them before they box them up don't they?
@@truckcampertraveler7369 That's Right Broo*
But this process makes a difference...
Makes you feel confident in real time 🤗
He used his best wrench for this one
Good video..bought one of these champions...still in the box...I will break it in this Saturday..
Thanks for the wonderful video Danny! I sure learned a lot!
Great video, thanks for sharing. Got a new predator and have not started it. Will follow your advice.
Thank you for the tips brother!
Thank you sir I learned alot
Enjoyed your informative video, thanks
The hair dry cut its power up/down to save its heating element. It decreases its power for a few seconds to allow it to cool.
Great video. For me, it marvels in the top end. I also swear by synthetics. I use amsoil breakin sae 30 then flush it with amsoil 10w30 small engine. Engine makes significantly more compression compared to others of the same size. Store it with marvels in the top end.
Just get a digital, heavy duty timer and program it to cycle the hairdryer/work lights on and off every 15 minutes or less. It's what I do when breaking in a new generator except with a 1500w heater.
What’s the thought with the Lucas. It’s far to thick to get past the rings. Always, the combustion burns it right up on start up. It makes no sense to me.
I think he does it because he doesn't want a dry start. but seems you could accomplish this by pull starting without the spark plug in ??? I have watch several generator breakin videos and they all do it.
Thank You for the information
Excellent video, thanks Danny :)
I like the way you talk. Where's part 2?
excellent video! 😎
thank you
Great job, brother
Why are you using Lucas? And what's the point of putting the seafoam in the gas? I think you could break the engine in just using synthetic oil and ethanol free gass and just change the oil at the intervals you did.
0:40 looks like you need a new wrench lol..great video thanks
Excellent post!
After the third oil change, how long do you run royal purple break in oil before switching to synthetic? Everywhere I read with cars, you dump it as soon as it reaches operating temperature as not to cause too much wear. Is this the same with 4 cycle engines? In particular the Predator 3500 & 9000 generators. Thank you in advance.
I broke my champion in with Kirkland synthetic oil about 4 months ago and use it daily for hours on my RV. Just change the oil every week and run sea foam in the 91 octane gasoline. Take spark arrester out before you even start, if it has one? Starts first pull every time.
Heck yeah!!
This guy is awesome !! hell yea haha
Great Video, I'm about to break in a predator 3500. Can you use STP oil treatment instead of Lucas ?
holy hell; well I now know westinghouse is pretty good. Oil came out looking new after first 1hr run. That shavings and metal bits is absurd.
I could still see visible metal glitter in my Westinghouse oil after the third oil change. But I also changed several times before the first ten hours.
@@jshepard152 Maybe it is molybdenum. I ran mine again for 2 hours and again the oil looks the same as it went in. Maybe I got lucky.
Did your generator come with the magnetic dipstick and where do you find the hourmeter which is what you call the timer
Don't have to do the spark plug at all factory already change your oil during testing. Do what and only what your manufacturer says for break in then go full synthetic. Put the cheapest oil in for break in peirod
You spent more on products and labor than the whole generator cost!
Yeah 🙂, but he won't be buying a 2nd replacement generator in 2 years - when the improperly broken in one would have failed.
Read the poor reviews found on every Decent model and you'll see.
Really Great Video !!! Hope Yall Are Well Due To This Coronavirus Outbreak Stay Safe Brother ...
What happens when and if that battery goes out on the hour meter...you lose all your hour data.
Can tell the intervals you did your oil flushes...like 30 mins, 1 hour, or ???. Trying to figure out how many flushes and at what time I need to do it
cool video danny
tks bro
your welcome
I prefer to follow the manufacturer's guideline on generator maintenance.
Good job dude..
After the break in process do still use Lucas with your oil ? Or just synthetic oil is ok ?
thx for the info
you can use a timer, I have a cheap analog. It will cut on and off every 15 minutes. I allowed the items I plugged in to run for 30 minutes and the off for 15.
I did mine like this:
1. 30 min and oil change ( damn, so many metal fragments)
2. 45 min and oil change.
3. 1 hour without load and oil change.
4. 1 hour with a load and that's it.
Michael Serrano nice I did something similar but put about 200 mil in and shook it around then drained before first startup. Lots of metal before I’d even run it
Thank you in the process of breaking mine in but it’s an Westinghouse igen4500. Lots of medal flakes on the first oil change and a little more on the second. Going for for the 1st hour run no load till after the oil change to synthetic
damn! good job dude
Great video! So you run Quaker State first then the royal purple break in?
Awsome video
Good job A+
Also take advice from a man with a rusted wrench!
Are ya usin 10-30 earl?
One thing I don't understand, at the beginning when you put a tablespoon of oil in the spark plug hole.
I get that cranking with no spark plug, will distribute the oil along the piston walls?
But when you do finally start it normally - doesn't combustion create some kind of build up or residue on your spark plug? From the burned oil?
change out the spark plug after the break in.
Hey bud where did u get that dipstick from
I dont remember but ebay and amazon both have them
You don't need the zinc or phosphorus on a small generator engine the valve springs pressures are not high enough to wipe out the camshaft on these engines what is important is using a low quality enough of an oil to allow the rings to seat though or you can cause oil consumption problems. In air cooled aircraft engines they are broken in with straight mineral oil based oils until the rings are sealing then they drain and change it for the regular quality aircraft oil just my two cents on this subject. I would put a cheap dinosaur based oil in run the generator for only five minutes then drain it out and refill it again with the same cheap oil run it for 5 hours then drain it again and you should be good to go after that depends on how dirty the Chinese motor factory left the inside of your engine the Lucas in the cylinder could also just be plain cheap oil instead just a small amount to wet the bore is enough and pull it through slowly a few times with the plug still out. The first run oil change should be right away because there is no telling what levels of swarf were left inside the engine at the factory and dirt dust ect...
Engine oil additives are not recommended for generators
Hello, how much Lucas do you mix with your oil quart when you fill the generator? What kind of product i should use for fuel when I storage the generator ? I learn a lot thanks.
Don't use any oil additive, buy a quart of break in oil, lube the cylinder with a small amount through the spark plug location, pull the manual starter several times, add the break in oil, run it 30 minutes no load change to synthetic.
Why would you put Quaker State in a generator
Thankya.
Do you recommend using lucasoil in cold climates?
My opinion if it's like 10 degree or so no because it'll make the oil thicker and take too long for the oil to circulate through the engine. If you use Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer yes it'll circulate through the engine much faster especially if you use 5w-30 mixed up with Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. If you have a newer car and it recommends something other than 5w-30 use whatever the car maker recommend along with Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer.
Not at all it's useless
Reminds me of Deliverance.
Curious why you should not use synthetic oil for break in?
I saw some Briggs instructions that said to use conventional oil during break in because it's less expensive. I suspect there's no real reason to avoid synthetic.
I know it's been a while since your question, but
Synthetic oil doesn't have the higher amount of zinc and phosphorus as regular as oil.
And those minerals help to Seat the rings to the cylinder wall.
gettttt errr done..you should get a USB electronic microscope and show us the shavings !!
I could see mine with the naked eye for the first few oil changes.
Or start out with the Royal Purpal break in oil. These aren't high end engines.
Has anyone heard of manufacturer suggestions. You know the things that engineers that design the motor say need to be done and don't void the warranty.
Champion says after the first 5 hours you change it
So 1st run 30 min conventional on eco
2nd 1 hour conventional on eco
3rd 1 hour conventional on eco
4th 10 hours with varying the load with the break in oil.
I don't agree with using Lucas with this method at all. Lucas is a synthetic..you do not want to line your cylinder walls with a synthetic when you are trying to bed the rings before the honing is removed. It has exactly the opposite effect you are trying to create. I'd lube the upper cylinder with the royal purple and skip the Lucas all together.
Not all Lucas is synthetic.
@@thepitpatrol What's your point? The product shown and recommended in the video is what the reference was made to. It is immaterial if some other product not listed isn't synthetic. The reply was to inform with regard to the video, not provide a laundry list of alternatives or comparison products offered by the same manufacturer.
@@rickworthington3062 Ok Rick. I see this really spun you up. Very sorry.
@@rickworthington3062 true indeed man. That Lucas oil is way too thick. Instead any petroleum based oil will do the thing, monograde, multigrade, transmission, gear OIL won't hurt the engine and they're not that thick
Is this Cletus the hillbilly from The Simpsons ?
So why is it you cant break in the generator with synthetic oil?
I'm breaking mine in with synthetic diesel oil right now. Rotella T6. Which has extra zinc etc just like the bottle he showed. I didn't do all the extra steps, just an early oil change after 2 20 minute cycles. I'll just change the oil again when I get home. But the longer process is probably better, however I'm not too worried about it either. I thought they start these things up before they put them in the box, the oil plug had oil on it already. I did see the metallic oil though, so glad I at least got one extra change through it using the oil it came with.
Lowest idol.
The engines are tested and started after manufacturing is complete. There is no issue using synthetic oil during the break-in period. Engines are assembled using assembly lubricant which will protect the components upon first start. I would not waste my money on additives. Fuel stabilizer is however recommended.
yeah i no all that..synthetic oil is to good for breakin
I don't bother with synthetic oil in engines that do not have oil filters in them. Even without metal particulates, the oil still gets contaminated with condensation, and anything that gets pas the air filter. You need to change it often enough, that there is little advantage with a premium grade oil, unless, you live in a very cold environment, where pour point becomes a factor.
I'm less concerned with the number of hours on the engine, than the amount of fuel consumed by it. For engines with no oil filters(like this one) I recommend changing every 10 gallons per quart of oil capacity in the crank case. This engine may not even hold one quart, so, more frequent changes are needed, but less oil is needed per change. If you have an engine with a oil filter, you can go about 25 gallons per quart of capacity, before changing. At that point, a premium quality oil stays in there long enough to be worth it.
The metal shavings in the oil, during the initial few hours of run time proves the necessity for those frequent oil changes, and monitoring of the condition of the oil. That prevents the "snowball" effect, that makes the difference between a 200 hour and a 2000 hour engine.
When reading the owner's manual from various engine manufacturers, they are less concerned about how the engine is loaded, but are adamant about the first oil changes. That seems to be the same for Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Honda, Tecumseh, and I'm sure it's the same for any small engine like this, regardless of make, or country of origin. Especially those with no oil filter.
Predator is the only engine that seems to have a break in procedure, and it's very simple. Add oil and fuel, fire the engine, run it full governed speed, no load for 3 hours, then change the oil. It's ready to go to work.
@@vincentrobinette1507 I use the full synthetic oil in mine because I am operating it in Arizona. It gets extremely hot here!
@@MrDeviousdom That makes sense. I also recommend it if you lived in Alaska, where it gets cold. For extreme temperatures on either end of the scale, Synthetic is the best way to go. The American Petroleum Institute grades oil by it's viscosity at freezing, and the boiling point of water, and it doesn't test extremes much beyond that. If you don't use synthetic, look for an API classification "SN". It will do better on the extremes than other non-synthetic oils, but not as good as the premium synthetic oils. It won't lose all it's volatiles and turn to honey if it gets above 300 degrees Fahrenheit, and it will still flow at below zero temperatures.
@The Trashman I do
just change the oil with every tank of gas
Fuck that
@Vip Keys when breaking in during first 30 hours
Bruh... are you tryin to get yur generator to ryun fer 100000 howers? Cause it's just a small enjin. It ain't made fer lastin dat long.What the factory sez is gud enuf...
Bruh... ya had meh crayon fer howers! 😂
@@HH-pj2df Man I almost dropped my phone when I read this reply. Beautiful! Lol!
❤
A lawn mower racer guy told me Kohler oil sae30 has tons of zinc and cheap
Wow
First 30 seconds this guys wrong on two counts, ditch the Lucas or any other oil additive, no oil manufacturer suggests it, and absolutely use synthetic oil for break in, yeah let's use a lesser oil for the situation where you need the most protection from localized high heat.
This synthetic " is to slippery" BS is just that.
AC cycles
*idle, not American "idol."