This is Best Generator Video... it's actually showing the basic things owners would wanna know & see before spending a decent chunk of $$ on & having to find out the hard way if it's good or bad. This Gen Max 9000 seems to be very well built & designed. Loving the ideas for simple "upgrades/modifications" The more I see & learn... the more I'm ready to order one. I've bought several items he's showcased & found his reviews & demos to be very accurate & trustworthy.. Credibility is hard to come by these days.... Brians proved to be a reliable source of entertainment as well as " hey cool, I didn't know that" Maybe Santa will bring me a GenMax9000 lol
I have the gas-only version. I also got a magnetic dipstick, also get a magnetic drain plug. I added a battery tender cable to the battery and put a hole with a grommet in the side to allow the tail to come out. I ran mine for 1 hour at idle then changed the oil with conventional oil, it now has synthetic. I did this 3 times. The color of the oil after the 1st hour was black, but after the 3rd change it was almost like new. The 2 magnets had some tiny metal bits after the 1st oil change, but nothing noteworthy beyond that. So far, so good. Haven't needed to run it beyond that just yet, thankfully. The drain hose from the carb bowl makes it super easy to get it prepared for storage.
I still need to run my generator for about another hour or so before I feel that it's fully broken in. I will probably go to full synthetic after the breaking period is over. I just wanted to make sure the flat tappet camshaft and lifters didn't get hurt during break in..... and also help seat the piston rings in the cylinder. Between the filter screen and the magnetic tip dipstick I feel this generator has far better filtration (or ability to catch debris) than pretty much any other generator in this category. Thanks for the comment!
I didn't watch this till after I did my break in but I used royal purple break in oil too, and my generator had an upgrade it already had a oil drain hose installed from the factory so they've been watching and adapting to videos from tubers like you. I did order the magnetic drain you got thank you, good idea. I did have stuff caught in my screen filter just bits and pieces of tiny stuff but did have like a half moon sliver of gasket material caught in it that otherwise would have ended up who knows where.
@@SlipFitGarage No I got the 9000Ie or maybe ied? Its the gasoline only version though. It's fairly common for engine rebuilders to use break in oil which I dabble in so it was just automatic to use break in oil, but what caught my eye was you having the bottle on the thumbnail, I'm like hey this guy knows whats up! Anyways great channel, got my new oil dipstick today thanks for that tip.
Yep, I had a background in working with drag racing engines (all the way up to 12,000+ hp nitro funny cars) and break-in oil is common in that sport. Are you planning to use this generator mostly for home backup, like me.... or are you also using if for other things like camping, etc? Thanks for the compliments.
New engines today should never have any metal shavings whatsoever, but may have some sludge from the assembly grease etc. It's a good idea to have a magnetic dip stick just incase it does goes south and can save other parts if your there and hear of anything weird during operation, so that metal pieces don't go back up into your cams, rods and valves and do more damage if it's turned off on time so it doesnt continue. I Guess generators parts are not as clean as automotive parts when built new. Good video and showing metal particles. Thanks for information.
You're correct that new engines SHOULDN'T have any metal pieces whatsoever, but we don't live in a perfect world.... and Chinese produced small gas engines are WELL KNOWN for metal shavings when new. It's just the way it is, regardless of brand. As for the dipstick... didn't you see me install a new magnetic dipstick in the video? lol
I've used those oil drain hoses on other small engine projects and they work great. But I would double check your old levels sense you laid the hose down along both, below the engine or even below the fill after you added oil, as the oil will fill the hose and lower the oil levels in the engine.
Probably true.... but by how much? The total "area" of the inside of the hose is probably about 4 table spoons worth of oil. That amount of oil missing from the crankcase is probably not even measurable on the dipstick.... and it certainly is NOT going to affect longevity of the engine. The generator in this video has been running great since this video was recorded almost two years ago. Thanks for the comment.
My new genmax 9000 came with a magnet tipped dipstick already ! I skipped the drain hose and got a 500 cc fluid extractor from Amazon which I squirted in the break-in oil and should be fine for low mess removal of the used oil too.
Great video. I like the drain hose and was thinking maybe you should fill the new oil through the hose by some funnel attached to the exit. Then you can just look at the fill hole for the oil level as it comes up. Just a thought.
Expecting my 10500iETC in a few days. Your vid was very informative, thanks. I have a question you can hopefully help with. I see my new gen comes with remote start. I loved that feature so I could start the gen from inside the house when the power goes out. When I read the specs I asked how can there be a remote start if you have to manually throw the main switch. I can see the function when you want to stop the unit but having to go outside kinda defeats the remote purpose. Any thoughts?? Thanks again for the vid and the help.
Well, on my 9000 Dual Fuel Genmax, the main switch can just be left in the on position.... Pretty much indefinitely. You would think that would drain the battery but I have left it on by accident and the battery did not go dead. Apparently, all of the electronics that come on with the main switch, such as the electric meter display for example, everything eventually "times out" and everything basically goes into "sleep mode". I haven't really tested my remote start much. I don't know if the remote start system ALSO goes into sleep mode and therefor will not work after everything times-out, or if that will continue to work at all times. What I do know for sure is..... I have left that main switch on for months at a time and the battery never goes dead. I'm pretty sure the remote will always work now that I am thinking about it. I could test it tomorrow for you but your new generator will be delivered soon enough. Let me know how you like the new Tri-fuel generator. I am thinking about upgrading my dual-fuel generator for the new tri-fuel model. I have a natural gas kit here that I can retrofit onto my Genmax, but I'd rather just have a factory tri-fuel unit now that they're available. Thanks for the question.
You may have to add a little but more oil if the oil goes into the hose unless it gets put up vertically. Might be a way to do that, but I'm currently waiting to receive my Genmax 1050 Trifuel invertor.
Another hurricane on the way, just ordered the dipstick, a generator hook up cable, and the Genmax today. Electrician is here tomorrow to install my transfer switch and inlet. I really did want 2x 4500w Inverter Generators with parallel as my perfect solution, but lack of 240v was the deal breaker. Not that I NEED 240v during a power out situation, but just because while I think it's fine to use 120v for a power inlet, there is a lot of conflicting information about how safe that is to do, or how it will only power half the panel. On YT the Genmax is reviewed well, but on Amazon it has some mixed feedback. The predator is also another well reviewed unit that I could have picked up local yesterday for 15% off, making it cheaper, but honestly I think the Genmax looks better for similar costs. I wish Genmax mad the 6000w version of this with parallel, that would have been perfect. Use less fuel when you dont need both, and have a back up to your backup incase one fails.
I agree with everything you said. I also really would like to own the 6000 watt GM6000iED for when I don't need the larger 9000 but buying both was out of the question. Maybe someday I will buy the 6000 so I can have more options and added redundancy. I think you will be very happy with the Genmax 9000. How far out was the delivery window for your Genmax? Will it make it to your place before the hurricane is expected to hit? I will cross my fingers for you that you and your family make it through the hurricane with no trouble. As for reviews on youtube..... I can't speak directly for those people but my experience with ordering from Amazon was very smooth, and the generator itself has been excellent. I have zero complaints. Thanks for the comment!
@@SlipFitGarage Wont be here until next week, but this storm should not be bad for us. Same for the hook up cable, and all that. All a week out. I still have my 2000w Champion Power Equipment if needed for an emergency, it got us thru 6 days last time running fans, lights, and fridges. Very much looking forward to not needing to run extension cables, and grid power devices like room lights or ceiling fans after this gets here. I can tell you fuel was hard to get after the storm, one reason I prefer "just as big as needed" to use less fuel, and less trips out to refill. a 4500w would easily run everything overnight, and a 2nd turned on in the day would let us easily run everything in the house, having a large and a small generator would work, but having two small ones that can just run parallel would be even better.
I have two of these ordered, Amazon is taking its time to get them out but I have all the accessories here now. Nice thing is there’s a CA version now that’s 100% legal even here in CA
Congrats! I'm sure you'll love the new generators. I know I love mine! Let us know how everything works out for you. I'd like to hear about your generator setup.
Just got mine installed today. I noticed the hour meter wasn't showing cumulative runtime though. I saw a post elsewhere that said GenMax replied that the generator has to run for more than an hour to accumulate time. Not sure if that means that it keeps tracking after the first hour or if it only shows increments of 1 hour runs. i.e. if you ran it for 1 hour and 55 minutes, it would only show 1 hour. Have you experienced this? Thanks for the upgrade ideas and the great content.
If I'm not mistaken.... when the meter cycles through it's display modes, sometime it shows the run time since the engine was last started (for that current run cycle) and then it will show overall lifetime engine hours. It's been a while since I studied that on my generator so don't take what I just typed as 100% fact but it's something similar to what I just typed. And yes, if I remember correctly the hour meter didn't start reading correctly until after the first hour. Again, it's been a while but I do remember something about that. Thanks for the question and the compliment!
Instead of the hose with a cap that provides routing and storage issues, I took a different approach. I treaded a 1/4 turn valve into the engine with a barbed hose coupler on the other side. When oil change time rolls around, I push a hose onto the barb fitting, set the other end in a catch tray, and turn the valve. No oil in the case or on me.
Yeah, those have been around for a long time. I had one of those on my pickup truck in the 1990's. I decided to use the hose on this generator because the location of the drain port is not the easiest to get at.... especially with larger hands. The hose is easier to grab, and use..... for me, anyway. Thanks for the comment.
Could you further clarify your break-in procedure for this generator? The start of the video states that you’re about 1/2 way through the break-in period. Does that mean you changed the oil at ~2.5 hours of runtime using another/second bottle of the Royal Purple? Was that oil then removed at the end of the 5 hour period and replaced with a “regular” engine oil? Thanks. If I missed this I apologize. Great video!
I meant that I was halfway through the total amount of engine run time for the break-in period. In this video I show draining the original oil that was put in when the generator arrived new at my place on day one and the engine now had roughly 2.5 hours of run time on that original oil. You see me drain the original and refill it back with more of the same break-in oil to finish the remainder of the break-in period.... The second oil change where I drain the second batch of break-in oil happened 2 or 3 hours of engine run time after this video was made, and it is NOT shown in this video. You only see the first oil change of this generator. Keep in mind, this is MY break-in procedure. I am not telling anyone this is how they should break-in their new generator. To me, there really is no "set in stone" engine break in procedure for any engine. Sure, manufacturers will tell you how they would like to see you break-in a generator from them but that is just their opinion..... and everyone has a different opinion. So, with that said, please don't lose any sleep if you don't follow a break-in procedure exactly. The main purpose is to take it easy on the engine and generation components for a while and to flush out any metal bits and pieces left over from the machining process. The time frame given for this process is simply a suggestion. In my opinion, anyway. Thanks for the question.
no shut off valve on the rubber drain hose? the hose can crack oil can leak out the cap. just get a vac pump syringe 15.00 suck out oil and then use it to refill oil. so much easier.
Yep, the hose COULD crack and leak oil..... The rubber fuel line going from the gas tank to the carburetor could also crack and leak gasoline... I could get struck by lightning while setting up my backup generator in a thunderstorm or tornado and potentially be killed. Etc, etc... If I ran my life by everything hat COULD happen, I'd never leave my bedroom.
Assuming you compensated for the oil that will be circulating in the extended drain hose now? Wondering if that hose will have any effect on oil pressure?
That hose holds about 2 table spoons worth of oil..... Not to mention I filled the engine until it was full, that INCLUDES the drain hose. Full is full. This engine does not rely on oil pressure for lubrication. It uses splash lubrication, like 99% of all small gas engines. It has a circulation pump for filtration (to pump oil through the screen, according to Genmax.... I have not opened the engine to see for myself) And even if it did use pressure, the drain hose is connected to the drain port. It is no no way connected to the oil delivery system. Thanks
Hi. Did you ever tell us about all the "Craziness" that you described at the end of your video? I think you were talking about an additional accessory that might be a GenTent. I'm not sure, just guessing.
No, sorry, I never did make a video about that yet. It's a custom made exhaust system to help get the noise and exhaust fumes up and away from ground level. The craziness is the mounting bracket that I made to support the custom exhaust system. The support bracket is made from uni-strut. I used cushion clamps designed to work with uni-strut that are the perfect size to clamp onto the existing round tubing frame work of the Genmax generator frame. Basically I made a VERY strong and sturdy exhaust bracket that required ZERO alterations to the generator itself. The entire exhaust system and mounting bracket can be removed from the generator with out a trace of it ever being there. Next time I have the generator out of the shed I will make a video about it. Thanks for reminding me about it.
Thank you so much for the quick reply. I enjoy and appreciate your videos. I love the "Craziness" reference, I'm the same way and I'm looking forward to more "Craziness." @@SlipFitGarage
Do the Genmax 9,000 generator has a electric start or a remote start ? And what types of oil it use ? Is it better to use ethanol free gas for this generator ? Can I plug a electric stove that has a 220 line ?
Did you watch the video at all? I'm pretty sure I covered all the answers to your questions in the video. Electric start - Yes Remote start - yes Oil - 10w30..... I used specific "break-in" oil to start with which is not required by the manufacturer Fuel - ethanol free gas is better in ANY gas engine so yes, it's better to run Ethanol free gas It's 240 volts - yes, you can plug your 220/240 volt stove into the 240 outlet. You may need an adapter but the electricity is correct.
The exhaust setup that I have installed on the generator is a mixture of a purchased kit, and a custom made mounting system. So, in other words, there is not a link to a portion of my exhaust setup...... and without the custom made mounting device, the part that you can buy really won't work properly. I have two videos in the works right now (one will go live live later this week) that are about other topics, but the following video after those two will be about the generator exhaust system. I would say within the next month the exhaust video will be made and uploaded to RUclips. Thank you for your interest in the exhaust that I made/installed.
That is the never ending debate. It's been going on ever since synthetic oil was invented. By now, we've had decades of evidence that shows synthetic oil lasts longer and probably lubricates better than traditional petroleum oil. If you want to run synthetic oil in your generator, I would recommend running traditional oil for the first few oil changes (even after break-in oil) this will help to insure the rings are seated, etc... But after that, you could probably run synthetic. But just keep in mind, nowhere in the instruction manual (that I know of, anyway) does it say to run break-in oil, OR synthetic oil. All of this extra stuff is beyond the manufacturer's recommendation. Basically, once the warranty runs out, you can run whatever you would like to run. Just my $0.02 cents. Thanks for the question.
@brianok100 thank you for your help. So I recently purchased a TriFuel Genmax, the new model 10500. Before I start having fun with it, I want to ensure all is done right. I've purchased this magnetic dipstick, magnetic drain plug, and even a small flat 2qt oil pan. In terms of the break in oil, there is also a synthetic break in oil as far as I remember. There are so many of these brands, Royal Purple seems to be a reliable brand, I've used AMSoil in one of my cars before, heard its good too. For me getting synthetic and paying more for it is not an issue, I just want to give my generator everything what's best. What do you think about synthetic break in oil, does it make sense to do it? Also, I've also seen some saying to first run the engine for 20 minutes, replace break in oil, then run for 5 hrs, and after two cycles put the oil you want, in my case I'd probably do synthetic. Would you stay with Royal Purple afterwards? Any recommendations? Probably don't matter too much what brand, as long as it's maintained. Thank you
@@paul9387 Like I said, it's been debated since the beginning of Synthetic oil. I realize cost isn't an issue. We're only talking about one quart of oil (roughly). lol. There are a group of people in this world (myself included) who thinks synthetic oil is great.... but for engine break-in, it's TOO good. You need zinc and phosphorus for flat tappet cam and lifters and that is specifically what "break-in" oil has that normal oil does not have these days. It was removed from modern engine oil because it's not good for catalytic converters on modern cars.... NOT because it was no longer needed... and because of that, pretty much all modern cars now use roller lifters nowadays. The end result is.... our engine oil is not as good in some ways as it once was. Those two additives are no longer in our oil. Period. As for using synthetic oil in a brand new engine.... even IF it had roller lifters, we still need to worry about piston ring seal. Getting piston rings to "seat" can be tricky with synthetic engine oil. It's too slippery for the rings to get a good 'seat". In my generator, I broke it in with Royal purple break-in oil. It ran for roughly 2-3 hours and then I changed it again with royal purple break-in oil, (as seen in this video) then I ran it for another 2-3 hours and I changed it again. (not seen in this video) This time I am running Valvoline VR1 10W30 racing oil. It's petroleum based and contains some zinc and phosphorus but it's not considered "break-in" oil. Maybe eventually I will change over to full synthetic but right now I still have 5 quarts of VR1 10W30 and I will continue to run that for now. My original plan was to switch over to full synthetic but I ended up going with the VR1 for good measure. You can do whatever you like. There really is not "right" or "wrong" oil to use. Like I said before, if it was mine, I would absolutely break in the engine with petroleum break-in oil. Change it out once or twice during break in, then switch to some sort of non break-in oil. In my case, I chose to stay with petroleum 10W30..... but you could switch to full synthetic at that point if you really want to. One thing that I would NOT recommend is breaking in an engine with full synthetic oil. It may be fine in a brand new car that has an engine designed and machined to run full synthetic from the factory, but a small gas engine from China is not in that same category. And again, as a final disclaimer..... just keep in mind, non of this is mentioned in the manufactures owners manual. As far as they're concerned, normal petroleum oil is just fine from day one. They probably do not recommend full synthetic because even they know it's too slippery for proper ring seal in their engines. Do whatever you would like to do. As long as you're using oil of some kind, any kind, then you're probably going to be just fine. Thanks!
@brianok100 thank you, I truly appreciate your help! I'll run first three on RP, after that I'll go with some good synthetic. One more question, they first recommend running no load let's say for the first hour. Would Eco mode be fine for that?
@@paul9387 Probably. But it's generally considered better if you vary the engine rpm during break-in. I ran mine for 5-10 minutes on ECO, then turned ECO off for 5-10 minutes, then back on for another 5-10, an so on. Eventually you could probably go 10-20 minutes between ECO throttle cycles, or maybe even longer. There is nothing set in stone about breaking in ANY engine so if you forget to switch ECO on or off at exactly the specific time don't lose any sleep over it. Honesty, most people fill 'er up with gas and oil, let it idle for a minute or two and then put it right to work with no easy break-in and 99 times out 100 everything is just fine. If you do the break-in like you've explained to me, that will probably be the best break-in that ANY Genmax generator has ever received.... You'll be just fine!
First, and watching. That's so funny. I just bought a single quart of Royal Purple for my new gas powered lawn edger. It was the only synthetic oil I could find in SAE30. And of course I got it from Amazon, because all my local stores in my little town were out of stock. -Chuck
This particular break-oil is a petroleum product (non synthetic) but I will probably switch to synthetic once this last batch of break-in oil comes out. My local parts store seem to only stock ONE quart each of this break-in oil. I got my first quart at the local O'reillys auto, it was the only quart they had..... Then a few weeks later I bough the quart in this video at my local Napa and again, it was the only quart they had in stock. lolol. It's funny because what would most guys do with only ONE quart? It's not like there are any vehicles on the road that only take ONE quart of oil. lolol. I'm lucky when it comes to auto parts stores where I live. I have a Napa, Carquest, Auto Plus, O'reillys, and Autozone all less than one mile from my house.
@@SlipFitGarage Maybe they are catering to folks with small engine equipment like snow blowers. The crankcase capacity of my edger is only 3oz. My town is only population 12,000 but, I have a Ford Dealership, O'Reilly, AutoZone, Napa, Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply Company, and a Walmart with automotive departments on the same street. The city police station, and post office is also the same building too. lol -Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform You do have a pretty good selection for a town of only 12,000 people. We have everything you mentioned (except Tractor Supply) but with a population of 90,000. This town has become too busy for me... but that's another story for another day. Lol.
I'm curious if it would take the rest of the listed oil capacity if you ran it for a few seconds so the pump could fill the filter housing and make more room so you could top it off with the extra ounces?
Maybe.... but we are really splitting hairs at that point. I put one quart of oil in my generator, run the generator, then check the oil again and it's still right at the full mark on the factory dipstick.
@@SlipFitGarage I was just wondering if using 32oz in a small engine designed for 37.2oz could cause an issue over time. Besides being about 15% low, I was thinking it might be possible a lower oil level in conjunction with unlevel ground would cause the low oil shutoff to engage. Just a thought. no biggie.
@BV 86 Well, in my mind, full is full. When the dipstick says full, it's full. Not to mention you CAN'T add more oil because of the design of the fill port. Once oil starts to run back out, it's full. One quart of oil in this engine with a funnel and some of it runs back out before you can get the dipstick screwed back in. It's impossible for a human to push oil uphill, higher than the fill hole. Also, in the world of gasoline and diesel burning engines, I can't think of a single engine that is designed to safely run ONLY when it's absolutely full of oil. There may be some extreme examples in Motorsports, but your average everyday vehicle and small gas engine equipment can run on probably 50% of the recommended oil level and cause zero damage. As long as the level of the oil pump pickup or the oil splashing device never runs dry, then it doesn't matter if there's one ounce or 10 gallons of Reserve capacity above that point.
Yes, correct. That is exactly what I did. And just to be clear.... break-in oil is NOT required by the manufacturer. That is something that I decided to do for myself. If it wasn't for catalytic converters required on all modern cars and light truck, then all of our oil on the market would still have the good zinc and phosphorus anti wear additives like all engine oil once had. They didn't remove those additives from engine oil because they don't protect engines, they removed them from the oil because it can hurt the efficiency of catalytic converters. Maybe that's fine for modern vehicles but I want all the protection I can get, especially during break-in, on these small air cooled gas engines. Just my opinion. I am not telling anyone how to break-in their new generator. I simply showed how I break in new small engines for myself. Thanks for the question.
If you have an oil extractor, feel free to use it. Extractors were designed for those vehicles where properly draining (through a drain hole) is either impossible because they manufacturer did not include a drain, or for some other reason why proper draining is not possible. I wouldn't say extraction is "better" but that's because I don't think oil extraction is ever the "better" solution for draining oil when a proper drain hole is present, regardless if it's a generator, or a vehicle. (juts my personal opinion) There's nothing better than letting EVERYTHING gravity drain out of the engine, through the drain hole, including any contaminates that could potentially be left behind if/when extracting. Just my $.02. Thanks for the question.
I’ve been researching this generator and wonder if you have had any issues that concerned you? A few folks have mentioned quality concerns so I’m reaching out for advice and info. BTW I appreciate your video and lessons learned.
Hi Gene, l I have not personally experienced any quality issues with this Generator at all, let alone any issues caused by bad quality. In fact, when I first unboxed the generator, the first thing that crossed my mind was how much nicer the build quality was compared to how I imagined it would be. The overall build quality and fit & finish seems very nice. However, one of the previous commenters in this comment section said he read about issues with a solenoid vale somewhere on the generator but I have not had any trouble. I'm not sure exactly what this solenoid vale controls, I'm sure it's either a gas or Propane vale, but if/when I ever do have any trouble, I will just fix or replace that vale with something else. For me, repairs aren't really an issue. I have always done ALL my own repairs on everything I own (except warranty repairs, if any) but I do understand that will be a concern for most people. My generator is just now barely broken-in so I don't have many hours on it yet. It's obviously way too early for me to give any recommendations based on longevity, but so far everything has been great. That's about all I can say about this machine so far. I wish I had more info that I could provide to you..... but maybe it's a good thing that I don't have any information? Maybe that means it's a decent generator after all? I guess time will tell. Thanks for the question.
@@SlipFitGarage Thank you, Brian (I'm assuming that's correct :)) Living here in FL is always a bit dicey during hurricane season. I wish I had started my research sooner in order to take advantage of Black Friday deals. Currently, this unit is about $2200 -- for a retired dude, that's a bit much -- but, I think I'm gonna bite the bullet anyway. My guess is the price will only go up from here as we get closer to stormy weather . Again, thanks for your reply. Like you, I don't like making modifications to things that I can't reset to original condition, but I like the mods you did on yours and will likely follow suit. Gene
Thanks, Gene. If you buy one of these generators, once you get it all set-up and running, maybe you could drop another post in this comment section to let us know what your opinion is of the overall quality, and how your purchase/delivery process went for you. Also, if you can remember to do so, if you click the link under my video that takes you to the Amazon listing for this generator before you make your purchase, then this RUclips channel will get a small percentage for helping to make the sale. It doesn't cost you any more money, the seller of the product pays that small commission back to us after the fact. If you have any more question feel free to ask. Thanks again!
@@SlipFitGarage I asked the Genmax folks about the new 7250 model. It only comes with a 50 amp plug -- they assured me that with the included 30 amp adapter I would be fine. I went to the Amazon link for it and found so many disappointed buyers that now I have cold feet for any Genmax. So many buyers expressed disappointment in the customer service after the purchase. I really want a dual-fuel inverter and while I might consider the Honda unit -- it's gas only. We all know that when a hurricane hits FL -- the run on gas is a nightmare and being a sole source of fuel would be a mistake IMHO. Thanks for the link, Brian. If I decide to take the Genmax route I'll support you. Gene
@@genemcloud4114 Hi Gene.... I don't blame you for being cautious. Non of these import generators sold on-line have local support..... and MOST of the import generators sold in brick and mortar store have no support either. There is simply no official replacement parts supply chain. The best you might do is to buy a Powerhorse from Northern Tool (if you have one nearby) or a Predator from Harbor Freight. Neither of these options will repair your generator if it breaks, but at least you're dealing with a local company. However, the Harbor Freight extended warranty is excellent for the first two years. It's basically a no questions asked full replacement warranty. However, after those first two years, you're on your own again. The Predator 9500 (which is basically the harbor freight version of the Genmax in my video, made in the same factory) can be converted to run on either propane or natural gas with the help of a $180 - $200 dollar conversion kit. But again, if you have any problems after two years, you're on your own. Honestly, I hate to say it.... if you want guaranteed customer service and repair on a generator, whether it's brand new, or 20 years old.... Honda is really the only brand to buy. There are Honda equipment dealers all over the USA who are willing to do repair work on Generators, and there is an official supply chain of parts which makes repairs even possible to begin with. You might find a locally owned private repair shop to work on any brand of generator (even an import) but if/when that shop finds a potential problem, they probably won't be able to locate the parts required to make the repair. Just some food for thought. Thanks for the reply. Good luck on your search. 🙂
Just do the hot/cold to seat the rings about three times around 30 min each. Meaning let it get to running temperature then let it cool all the way off. You'll be good and change the oil. Just what I know about motors. I'm sure someone will say I'm wrong.
That's probably fine to break-in the engine part of this unit, but we're also trying to break-in the generator head that is connected to the engine as well. It's nice to vary the load on the generation unit while breaking it in. Thanks for the comment.
Yes, others have commented that same thing. I honestly didn't know who he was at first. I had to google him. I listened to his voice on a youtube video and I can see where people think I sound like him. Thanks for the compliment on my videos, and thanks for the comment.
@@SlipFitGarage I forgot to ask you how are you liking the Genmax 9000? I’m considering purchasing one. I wish it had more than a 1 year warranty, the Pulsar PGD95BiSCO that’s equivalent has a three-year warranty. Thanks in advance 😉
I've had zero trouble with my Genmax 9000. It's been great! However, I wish I would've waited to get the new 10500 Tri fuel that is available now but I didn't know that version was being developed at that time. The Pulsar is built by the same company that makes Genmax (Dinking Power Machinery) so if that unit has 3X warranty, that might be the way to go.
Maybe. I'd have to take another look to see how, or if that would work. If I'm not mistaken, the existing hole in the bottom was a thin oval slot, not a round hole. Not that it couldn't be drilled out bigger, but I can't remember if there was something else in the way under there. There had to be a reason why I didn't run it out the bottom. Or, maybe I just had a bran fart? lol. That wouldn't surprise me.... stranger things have happened. lol. Thanks!
@brianok100 I just received my Genmax 9000 today after tons of research and video education. I made the same modifications you did in this video, but had a question. In regards to the oil drain hose, the original factory oil drain plug had a metal washer on it, did you use it on the drain hose you added or did you leave it off? I re-watched your video but didn't see that come up. Thanks for the awesome video, it really helped a not so mechanically inclined fellow like myself.
I am almost certain that I left the washer on the drain plug. Edit: After just looking a the pictures of the drain hose shown on Amazon, It appears the drain hose has it's own built-in washer along with a sealing o-ring. So, there is NO need to use the washer from the drain plug because the drain hose has it's own sealing surface and o-ring already built in. Thanks for the question.
@@SlipFitGarage yeah after I wrote you that question I went ahead and tried to put the washer on, but doing so created a gap and blocked the rubber o-ring. So leaving the supplied washer off is the way to go.
The filter screen may be just OK.... but it's absolutely better than any other generator on the market, in the same category, considering no other generators like this have ANY oil filtration whatsoever. And no, there is no connection for an external oil filter. Thanks.
Have this same unit and at 10 hours stater now will not even crank and start. Genmax is now asking me to bring the crap into a repair shop and pay for the repair. I drained the gas jn the tank and carb before storage as well as have the battery in a maintainer. Tested the voltage shiws 12.4 volts. Any idea what is wrong with my generator?
Are they offering to reimburse you for the repair after you pay? Taking it to a repair shop is not out of line, I had to bring my brand new car into the repair shop not too long ago. Brand new mechanical things break sometimes. It happens. However, I am not sure who works on Genmax generators. They don't really have a repair network setup here in the USA that I know of. If the starter won't crank it may have bad starter. Does it do anything when you hit the start button? Does it make ANY noise? Does it even click? Without being there in person makes it hard to diagnose. Describe what it does (if anything) and maybe I can help. Sorry for your trouble.
@SlipFitGarage Genmax said I have to pay for the repair and they will only cover er the inspection. I have to bring this heavy machine to a nearby small engine repair shop.
I finally I got it to run after an hour of work. I tested the battery and at 12.4 volts must be low enough to not excite the starter. So I replaced the battery and also the 10 hour OEM Chinese spark plug with an NGK iridium. I now run much better than new. I say that since when it was new it never starts on propane in the 1st try. Now with the NGK iridium plug it starts immediately both on Gas and propane. One thing is apparent is the OEM battery and spark plug is low quality. My 12 year old ryobi beats this genmax. I wish Ryobi makes a competing product even at a higher price but good quality. @@SlipFitGarage
That's great news! I am happy to hear that you fixed it yourself. Nice job! Yes, cheap Chinese batteries and spark plugs are known problems. It's not a surprise those are the two items that let you down. I honestly thought the overall quality of the Genmax was pretty good. Especially for the price. You say the Ryobi is better quality than the Genmax... and that IS possible, don't get me wrong.... but I assume the Ryobi is also made in China so it's probably very comparable to the Genmax, in all reality. Either way, you're back up and running with the Genmax and that's all that matters. Thanks for the comments.
Yes, it is a framework that I made and added to the generator (without altering anything the generator itself. No welds, not bolt holes, etc.) to hold up an exhaust stack without putting any extra weight on the factory exhaust pipe. The generator manufacturer recommends conventional 10w30 in the owners manual but once the engine is fully broke in, it probably wouldn't hurt to run full synthetic. In fact, I might run synthetic myself when I do the next oil change. Do you own one of these Genmax generators?
@@SlipFitGarage Yes, very happy with the purchase. I followed the break-in procedure and then put in amsoil and also added both magnetic dip stick and magnetic oil plug. Also used another youtuber's video showing how to make it home ready with floating neutral bonding plug.
@Q R you may want to consider Amsoil small engine oil. It is a product specifically made for small engines like these generators, not just a rebranded oil. It is what I will be running when my 9000ied gets here on Tuesday.
I did notice that after the video was made..... I don't have an extra 30 hours to break-in a generator.... 5 hours is PLENTY in my opinion. 30 hours is totally unrealistic for almost everyone. lolol. If it's going to break after the first 5 hours, then it's going to break regardless. To each his own, I guess. lol
It was a catastrophe. LOL. There is a slot in the belly pan of the generator that the oil is supposed to drain out of.... and I had something under there to catch the oil but like I said, I had a catastrophic accident. lolol. I don't remember exactly what happened but something slipped and oil went everywhere. That's not gonna happen again with the new drain hose. Even IF the accident didn't happen, the belly pan is a terrible design. My generator dripped oil from the belly pan for months after that..... and that wasn't caused by me spilling the drain pan UNDER the belly pan, it's because of the terrible design of the belly pan itself. The new drain hose prevents all that mess. It won't happen again. TRUST ME! lolol. Thanks.
I bought a round oil pan from Harbor Freight and cutout the back quarter about 2 inches down using a Dremel tool. Oil pan slides right under the generator where the drain hole sits.
It only had a few hours of time on the engine..... I wanted any small metal shavings that had sunk to the bottom of the engine to drain out of the drain hole, NOT get stirred back up and ran through the engine again. Sure, a LOT of people warm the engine first before an oil change.... but it's not like it's BAD if you don't warm the engine. lol. Feel free to change your oil how ever you like.
I have not ran it yet on anything other than gasoline so I can't say for sure...... but I did read somewhere what the propane consumption should be around 50% load but I can't for the life of me remember what that was. Sorry. If you do a google search the results should probably pop up near the top of the page.
@@SlipFitGarage Thanks for the reply the Genmax GM9000iED Specs say 0.67 GPH Propane @ around 50% load so 1 - 100 gallon propane tank should at the very least get me at least 5 days not bad
You don't even need a dipstick at all. You know it's full when the oil comes up to the bottom of the fill hole..... and then it's impossible to put more oil in. This is typical on a lot of small gas engines. The entire point of the magnetic dipstick is to potentially catch any small steel metal shavings that may be circulating in the oil.
@SlipFitGarage Right. You can do that, but most manufactures say to go two threads below oil overflowing out. My point of the comment was he was only adding one quart of oil because he believed the level to be good on the dipstick because he was screwing it all the way in to check the oil. In reality, he would have added the extra oil the manufacturer called for if the dipstick would have been used correctly.
@@DAVID-yn2iq Well, that "he" is me.... and I put in one quart because the owner's manual said the oil capacity is one quart. Once I added that one quart, the oil level was at the fill hole, which represents the engine is full of oil. The only reason why I used the dipstick was for video purposes to demonstrate for viewers who don't otherwise know any better. 2 threads either way is only splitting hairs. THIS manufacturer never mentions 2 threads of anything. They mention one quart oil capacity. Engine oil level is NOT that critical. As long as the oil level is high enough for the splash device, or pump pick-up to be submerged, it's fine. This is a stationary machine. There are no external forces causing the oil to slosh around and potentially cause the oil level to become temporary low enough to suck (or splash) air. I did not do anything in this video incorrectly. It may not be how you do it, and that is perfectly fine.... But that doesn't mean I did anything "wrong". To each his own. Thanks for the comment.
You're right, I did not vacuum pump the oil out. But you can change the oil however you like on your generator. I keep telling myself I need one of those extractor's but I haven't bought one yet. Maybe next time....
Which part? The break-in oil? The Oil drain hose? Or the magnetic dipstick? When talking about break-in oil, you're right most people wouldn't bother with a $40K car, it's usually for guy who has built $50K-$100K racing engine. (very common in drag racing) Most people wouldn't waste their time with ONLY a $40K vehicle. The drain hose (and/or drain hose quick disconnect) is actually a fairly common installation. Just because you're not aware of it, doesn't mean it's not happening. A new $40K automobile has a warranty with a local dealer network that will fix your car for free WHEN it breaks. I've also never seen a modern $40K vehicle sold with tons of metal shavings in the crank case from the factory like these Chinese engine or notorious for.... the magnetic dipstick is cheap
Hey, I don't like it either but I have no choice. There are products that all Americans use on an every day basis that are simply NOT made in the USA any longer. Anyone who claims they ONLY buy products made in the USA is either completely ignorant, or liar. There are ZERO 9000 watt inverter generators manufactured in the USA. Even a lot of Honda equipment is now manufactured in China and Taiwan.... and is FAR out of my price range.
@@SlipFitGarage You give great reviews don’t get me wrong 👍. But you can’t keep supporting the CCP at any cost. Do like I do save up your money a little longer. You don’t have to buy American just not communist countries there killing us. Believe me I bought alot of CCP products in the past and fully regret it now.
Lol. Not sure if you've been in a cave the last 8 years, but most large American companies have lost their minds and are actively anti-American. I'll buy from small US businesses, but if I'm buying from a large company, I absolutely prefer the Chinese (or anyone else) to large US companies. Sure, they might hate Americans, but large "woke" US companies are a much more immediate danger.
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Royal Purple Break-in oil: amzn.to/3eLscXU (Amazon link)
Oil drain hose : amzn.to/3TC2i7w (Amazon link)
Magnetic oil dipstick: amzn.to/3VHvXOu (Amazon link)
GENMAX GM9000iED Inverter Generator: amzn.to/3D7of9k (Amazon link)
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This is Best Generator Video... it's actually showing the basic things owners would wanna know & see before spending a decent chunk of $$ on & having to find out the hard way if it's good or bad. This Gen Max 9000 seems to be very well built & designed. Loving the ideas for simple "upgrades/modifications" The more I see & learn... the more I'm ready to order one. I've bought several items he's showcased & found his reviews & demos to be very accurate & trustworthy.. Credibility is hard to come by these days.... Brians proved to be a reliable source of entertainment as well as " hey cool, I didn't know that" Maybe Santa will bring me a GenMax9000 lol
Thanks for the nice comment, Woody!
Nice video, Need an update in the oil dip stick please!
I have the gas-only version. I also got a magnetic dipstick, also get a magnetic drain plug. I added a battery tender cable to the battery and put a hole with a grommet in the side to allow the tail to come out. I ran mine for 1 hour at idle then changed the oil with conventional oil, it now has synthetic. I did this 3 times. The color of the oil after the 1st hour was black, but after the 3rd change it was almost like new. The 2 magnets had some tiny metal bits after the 1st oil change, but nothing noteworthy beyond that. So far, so good. Haven't needed to run it beyond that just yet, thankfully. The drain hose from the carb bowl makes it super easy to get it prepared for storage.
I still need to run my generator for about another hour or so before I feel that it's fully broken in. I will probably go to full synthetic after the breaking period is over. I just wanted to make sure the flat tappet camshaft and lifters didn't get hurt during break in..... and also help seat the piston rings in the cylinder. Between the filter screen and the magnetic tip dipstick I feel this generator has far better filtration (or ability to catch debris) than pretty much any other generator in this category. Thanks for the comment!
You cannot break an engine in at idle, it has to be under a mildly fluctuating load in order to fully seat the rings.
I didn't watch this till after I did my break in but I used royal purple break in oil too, and my generator had an upgrade it already had a oil drain hose installed from the factory so they've been watching and adapting to videos from tubers like you. I did order the magnetic drain you got thank you, good idea. I did have stuff caught in my screen filter just bits and pieces of tiny stuff but did have like a half moon sliver of gasket material caught in it that otherwise would have ended up who knows where.
Enjoy your new generator. Did you get the new 10,500 watt Tri-fuel version? Thanks for your comment!
@@SlipFitGarage No I got the 9000Ie or maybe ied? Its the gasoline only version though. It's fairly common for engine rebuilders to use break in oil which I dabble in so it was just automatic to use break in oil, but what caught my eye was you having the bottle on the thumbnail, I'm like hey this guy knows whats up! Anyways great channel, got my new oil dipstick today thanks for that tip.
Yep, I had a background in working with drag racing engines (all the way up to 12,000+ hp nitro funny cars) and break-in oil is common in that sport. Are you planning to use this generator mostly for home backup, like me.... or are you also using if for other things like camping, etc? Thanks for the compliments.
New engines today should never have any metal shavings whatsoever, but may have some sludge from the assembly grease etc. It's a good idea to have a magnetic dip stick just incase it does goes south and can save other parts if your there and hear of anything weird during operation, so that metal pieces don't go back up into your cams, rods and valves and do more damage if it's turned off on time so it doesnt continue.
I Guess generators parts are not as clean as automotive parts when built new. Good video and showing metal particles. Thanks for information.
You're correct that new engines SHOULDN'T have any metal pieces whatsoever, but we don't live in a perfect world.... and Chinese produced small gas engines are WELL KNOWN for metal shavings when new. It's just the way it is, regardless of brand. As for the dipstick... didn't you see me install a new magnetic dipstick in the video? lol
I've used those oil drain hoses on other small engine projects and they work great. But I would double check your old levels sense you laid the hose down along both, below the engine or even below the fill after you added oil, as the oil will fill the hose and lower the oil levels in the engine.
Probably true.... but by how much? The total "area" of the inside of the hose is probably about 4 table spoons worth of oil. That amount of oil missing from the crankcase is probably not even measurable on the dipstick.... and it certainly is NOT going to affect longevity of the engine. The generator in this video has been running great since this video was recorded almost two years ago. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for taking the time to show us this, and the links, Thanks Again
You're welcome..... Thank you!
My new genmax 9000 came with a magnet tipped dipstick already ! I skipped the drain hose and got a 500 cc fluid extractor from Amazon which I squirted in the break-in oil and should be fine for low mess removal of the used oil too.
That sound great! Nice to hear they put mag tip dipsticks in them now. The fluid extractor is the way to go. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. I like the drain hose and was thinking maybe you should fill the new oil through the hose by some funnel attached to the exit. Then you can just look at the fill hole for the oil level as it comes up. Just a thought.
That certainly is an idea worth trying! Thanks for the comment.
Expecting my 10500iETC in a few days. Your vid was very informative, thanks. I have a question you can hopefully help with. I see my new gen comes with remote start. I loved that feature so I could start the gen from inside the house when the power goes out. When I read the specs I asked how can there be a remote start if you have to manually throw the main switch. I can see the function when you want to stop the unit but having to go outside kinda defeats the remote purpose. Any thoughts?? Thanks again for the vid and the help.
Well, on my 9000 Dual Fuel Genmax, the main switch can just be left in the on position.... Pretty much indefinitely. You would think that would drain the battery but I have left it on by accident and the battery did not go dead. Apparently, all of the electronics that come on with the main switch, such as the electric meter display for example, everything eventually "times out" and everything basically goes into "sleep mode". I haven't really tested my remote start much. I don't know if the remote start system ALSO goes into sleep mode and therefor will not work after everything times-out, or if that will continue to work at all times. What I do know for sure is..... I have left that main switch on for months at a time and the battery never goes dead. I'm pretty sure the remote will always work now that I am thinking about it. I could test it tomorrow for you but your new generator will be delivered soon enough. Let me know how you like the new Tri-fuel generator. I am thinking about upgrading my dual-fuel generator for the new tri-fuel model. I have a natural gas kit here that I can retrofit onto my Genmax, but I'd rather just have a factory tri-fuel unit now that they're available. Thanks for the question.
Nice, you sound just like the Actor JK Simmons.
I've heard that before. lolol. Thanks.
You may have to add a little but more oil if the oil goes into the hose unless it gets put up vertically. Might be a way to do that, but I'm currently waiting to receive my Genmax 1050 Trifuel invertor.
I filled the generator until it was full of oil, regardless of how much volume the drain hose took. Full is full.
Another hurricane on the way, just ordered the dipstick, a generator hook up cable, and the Genmax today. Electrician is here tomorrow to install my transfer switch and inlet.
I really did want 2x 4500w Inverter Generators with parallel as my perfect solution, but lack of 240v was the deal breaker.
Not that I NEED 240v during a power out situation, but just because while I think it's fine to use 120v for a power inlet, there is a lot of conflicting information about how safe that is to do, or how it will only power half the panel.
On YT the Genmax is reviewed well, but on Amazon it has some mixed feedback. The predator is also another well reviewed unit that I could have picked up local yesterday for 15% off, making it cheaper, but honestly I think the Genmax looks better for similar costs.
I wish Genmax mad the 6000w version of this with parallel, that would have been perfect. Use less fuel when you dont need both, and have a back up to your backup incase one fails.
I agree with everything you said. I also really would like to own the 6000 watt GM6000iED for when I don't need the larger 9000 but buying both was out of the question. Maybe someday I will buy the 6000 so I can have more options and added redundancy. I think you will be very happy with the Genmax 9000. How far out was the delivery window for your Genmax? Will it make it to your place before the hurricane is expected to hit? I will cross my fingers for you that you and your family make it through the hurricane with no trouble. As for reviews on youtube..... I can't speak directly for those people but my experience with ordering from Amazon was very smooth, and the generator itself has been excellent. I have zero complaints. Thanks for the comment!
@@SlipFitGarage Wont be here until next week, but this storm should not be bad for us.
Same for the hook up cable, and all that. All a week out.
I still have my 2000w Champion Power Equipment if needed for an emergency, it got us thru 6 days last time running fans, lights, and fridges.
Very much looking forward to not needing to run extension cables, and grid power devices like room lights or ceiling fans after this gets here.
I can tell you fuel was hard to get after the storm, one reason I prefer "just as big as needed" to use less fuel, and less trips out to refill.
a 4500w would easily run everything overnight, and a 2nd turned on in the day would let us easily run everything in the house, having a large and a small generator would work, but having two small ones that can just run parallel would be even better.
I have two of these ordered, Amazon is taking its time to get them out but I have all the accessories here now.
Nice thing is there’s a CA version now that’s 100% legal even here in CA
Congrats! I'm sure you'll love the new generators. I know I love mine! Let us know how everything works out for you. I'd like to hear about your generator setup.
Just got mine installed today. I noticed the hour meter wasn't showing cumulative runtime though. I saw a post elsewhere that said GenMax replied that the generator has to run for more than an hour to accumulate time. Not sure if that means that it keeps tracking after the first hour or if it only shows increments of 1 hour runs. i.e. if you ran it for 1 hour and 55 minutes, it would only show 1 hour. Have you experienced this? Thanks for the upgrade ideas and the great content.
If I'm not mistaken.... when the meter cycles through it's display modes, sometime it shows the run time since the engine was last started (for that current run cycle) and then it will show overall lifetime engine hours. It's been a while since I studied that on my generator so don't take what I just typed as 100% fact but it's something similar to what I just typed. And yes, if I remember correctly the hour meter didn't start reading correctly until after the first hour. Again, it's been a while but I do remember something about that. Thanks for the question and the compliment!
Instead of the hose with a cap that provides routing and storage issues, I took a different approach.
I treaded a 1/4 turn valve into the engine with a barbed hose coupler on the other side.
When oil change time rolls around, I push a hose onto the barb fitting, set the other end in a catch tray, and turn the valve. No oil in the case or on me.
Yeah, those have been around for a long time. I had one of those on my pickup truck in the 1990's. I decided to use the hose on this generator because the location of the drain port is not the easiest to get at.... especially with larger hands. The hose is easier to grab, and use..... for me, anyway. Thanks for the comment.
Many generators can use Fumoto drain valves. For break in oil, Motul and Driven are top notch.
There are many options in this world.
Thank you! Very helpful video. Looking forward to your follow up videos on sound, etc.
Thank you. I will be doing more generator videos after the new year. Stay tuned!
Could you further clarify your break-in procedure for this generator? The start of the video states that you’re about 1/2 way through the break-in period. Does that mean you changed the oil at ~2.5 hours of runtime using another/second bottle of the Royal Purple? Was that oil then removed at the end of the 5 hour period and replaced with a “regular” engine oil? Thanks. If I missed this I apologize. Great video!
I meant that I was halfway through the total amount of engine run time for the break-in period. In this video I show draining the original oil that was put in when the generator arrived new at my place on day one and the engine now had roughly 2.5 hours of run time on that original oil. You see me drain the original and refill it back with more of the same break-in oil to finish the remainder of the break-in period.... The second oil change where I drain the second batch of break-in oil happened 2 or 3 hours of engine run time after this video was made, and it is NOT shown in this video. You only see the first oil change of this generator. Keep in mind, this is MY break-in procedure. I am not telling anyone this is how they should break-in their new generator. To me, there really is no "set in stone" engine break in procedure for any engine. Sure, manufacturers will tell you how they would like to see you break-in a generator from them but that is just their opinion..... and everyone has a different opinion. So, with that said, please don't lose any sleep if you don't follow a break-in procedure exactly. The main purpose is to take it easy on the engine and generation components for a while and to flush out any metal bits and pieces left over from the machining process. The time frame given for this process is simply a suggestion. In my opinion, anyway. Thanks for the question.
no shut off valve on the rubber drain hose? the hose can crack oil can leak out the cap. just get a vac pump syringe 15.00 suck out oil and then use it to refill oil. so much easier.
Yep, the hose COULD crack and leak oil..... The rubber fuel line going from the gas tank to the carburetor could also crack and leak gasoline... I could get struck by lightning while setting up my backup generator in a thunderstorm or tornado and potentially be killed. Etc, etc... If I ran my life by everything hat COULD happen, I'd never leave my bedroom.
Assuming you compensated for the oil that will be circulating in the extended drain hose now? Wondering if that hose will have any effect on oil pressure?
That hose holds about 2 table spoons worth of oil..... Not to mention I filled the engine until it was full, that INCLUDES the drain hose. Full is full. This engine does not rely on oil pressure for lubrication. It uses splash lubrication, like 99% of all small gas engines. It has a circulation pump for filtration (to pump oil through the screen, according to Genmax.... I have not opened the engine to see for myself) And even if it did use pressure, the drain hose is connected to the drain port. It is no no way connected to the oil delivery system. Thanks
Hi. Did you ever tell us about all the "Craziness" that you described at the end of your video? I think you were talking about an additional accessory that might be a GenTent. I'm not sure, just guessing.
No, sorry, I never did make a video about that yet. It's a custom made exhaust system to help get the noise and exhaust fumes up and away from ground level. The craziness is the mounting bracket that I made to support the custom exhaust system. The support bracket is made from uni-strut. I used cushion clamps designed to work with uni-strut that are the perfect size to clamp onto the existing round tubing frame work of the Genmax generator frame. Basically I made a VERY strong and sturdy exhaust bracket that required ZERO alterations to the generator itself. The entire exhaust system and mounting bracket can be removed from the generator with out a trace of it ever being there. Next time I have the generator out of the shed I will make a video about it. Thanks for reminding me about it.
Thank you so much for the quick reply. I enjoy and appreciate your videos. I love the "Craziness" reference, I'm the same way and I'm looking forward to more "Craziness." @@SlipFitGarage
Do the Genmax 9,000 generator has a electric start or a remote start ? And what types of oil it use ? Is it better to use ethanol free gas for this generator ? Can I plug a electric stove that has a 220 line ?
Did you watch the video at all? I'm pretty sure I covered all the answers to your questions in the video.
Electric start - Yes
Remote start - yes
Oil - 10w30..... I used specific "break-in" oil to start with which is not required by the manufacturer
Fuel - ethanol free gas is better in ANY gas engine so yes, it's better to run Ethanol free gas
It's 240 volts - yes, you can plug your 220/240 volt stove into the 240 outlet. You may need an adapter but the electricity is correct.
@@SlipFitGarage Sometimes I don't have time to watch the whole video because I'm at work.I just want some straight simple answers.
Any idea whether this magnetic dipstick will also work on a Genmax 10500 tri fuel inverter generator? How about a magnetic drain plug?
Thanks!
I don't know which dipstick fits the tri fuel 10500. sorry.
Nice demo, and holly crap , you sound just like J K Simmons .
I've heard that before. lol. Thank you for the comment!
Super helpful video. Thank you!
You're welcome... thank you!
I liked the video. Can you also add the link to exhaust you have set it up. I would like to know what to buy.
The exhaust setup that I have installed on the generator is a mixture of a purchased kit, and a custom made mounting system. So, in other words, there is not a link to a portion of my exhaust setup...... and without the custom made mounting device, the part that you can buy really won't work properly. I have two videos in the works right now (one will go live live later this week) that are about other topics, but the following video after those two will be about the generator exhaust system. I would say within the next month the exhaust video will be made and uploaded to RUclips. Thank you for your interest in the exhaust that I made/installed.
@@SlipFitGarage Thanks for your reply. I am waiting for it.
Thank you.
Can or should or would be better to go synthetic afterwards?
That is the never ending debate. It's been going on ever since synthetic oil was invented. By now, we've had decades of evidence that shows synthetic oil lasts longer and probably lubricates better than traditional petroleum oil. If you want to run synthetic oil in your generator, I would recommend running traditional oil for the first few oil changes (even after break-in oil) this will help to insure the rings are seated, etc... But after that, you could probably run synthetic. But just keep in mind, nowhere in the instruction manual (that I know of, anyway) does it say to run break-in oil, OR synthetic oil. All of this extra stuff is beyond the manufacturer's recommendation. Basically, once the warranty runs out, you can run whatever you would like to run. Just my $0.02 cents. Thanks for the question.
@brianok100 thank you for your help. So I recently purchased a TriFuel Genmax, the new model 10500. Before I start having fun with it, I want to ensure all is done right. I've purchased this magnetic dipstick, magnetic drain plug, and even a small flat 2qt oil pan. In terms of the break in oil, there is also a synthetic break in oil as far as I remember. There are so many of these brands, Royal Purple seems to be a reliable brand, I've used AMSoil in one of my cars before, heard its good too.
For me getting synthetic and paying more for it is not an issue, I just want to give my generator everything what's best.
What do you think about synthetic break in oil, does it make sense to do it?
Also, I've also seen some saying to first run the engine for 20 minutes, replace break in oil, then run for 5 hrs, and after two cycles put the oil you want, in my case I'd probably do synthetic.
Would you stay with Royal Purple afterwards? Any recommendations? Probably don't matter too much what brand, as long as it's maintained.
Thank you
@@paul9387 Like I said, it's been debated since the beginning of Synthetic oil. I realize cost isn't an issue. We're only talking about one quart of oil (roughly). lol. There are a group of people in this world (myself included) who thinks synthetic oil is great.... but for engine break-in, it's TOO good. You need zinc and phosphorus for flat tappet cam and lifters and that is specifically what "break-in" oil has that normal oil does not have these days. It was removed from modern engine oil because it's not good for catalytic converters on modern cars.... NOT because it was no longer needed... and because of that, pretty much all modern cars now use roller lifters nowadays. The end result is.... our engine oil is not as good in some ways as it once was. Those two additives are no longer in our oil. Period. As for using synthetic oil in a brand new engine.... even IF it had roller lifters, we still need to worry about piston ring seal. Getting piston rings to "seat" can be tricky with synthetic engine oil. It's too slippery for the rings to get a good 'seat". In my generator, I broke it in with Royal purple break-in oil. It ran for roughly 2-3 hours and then I changed it again with royal purple break-in oil, (as seen in this video) then I ran it for another 2-3 hours and I changed it again. (not seen in this video) This time I am running Valvoline VR1 10W30 racing oil. It's petroleum based and contains some zinc and phosphorus but it's not considered "break-in" oil. Maybe eventually I will change over to full synthetic but right now I still have 5 quarts of VR1 10W30 and I will continue to run that for now. My original plan was to switch over to full synthetic but I ended up going with the VR1 for good measure. You can do whatever you like. There really is not "right" or "wrong" oil to use. Like I said before, if it was mine, I would absolutely break in the engine with petroleum break-in oil. Change it out once or twice during break in, then switch to some sort of non break-in oil. In my case, I chose to stay with petroleum 10W30..... but you could switch to full synthetic at that point if you really want to. One thing that I would NOT recommend is breaking in an engine with full synthetic oil. It may be fine in a brand new car that has an engine designed and machined to run full synthetic from the factory, but a small gas engine from China is not in that same category. And again, as a final disclaimer..... just keep in mind, non of this is mentioned in the manufactures owners manual. As far as they're concerned, normal petroleum oil is just fine from day one. They probably do not recommend full synthetic because even they know it's too slippery for proper ring seal in their engines. Do whatever you would like to do. As long as you're using oil of some kind, any kind, then you're probably going to be just fine. Thanks!
@brianok100 thank you, I truly appreciate your help! I'll run first three on RP, after that I'll go with some good synthetic.
One more question, they first recommend running no load let's say for the first hour. Would Eco mode be fine for that?
@@paul9387 Probably. But it's generally considered better if you vary the engine rpm during break-in. I ran mine for 5-10 minutes on ECO, then turned ECO off for 5-10 minutes, then back on for another 5-10, an so on. Eventually you could probably go 10-20 minutes between ECO throttle cycles, or maybe even longer. There is nothing set in stone about breaking in ANY engine so if you forget to switch ECO on or off at exactly the specific time don't lose any sleep over it. Honesty, most people fill 'er up with gas and oil, let it idle for a minute or two and then put it right to work with no easy break-in and 99 times out 100 everything is just fine. If you do the break-in like you've explained to me, that will probably be the best break-in that ANY Genmax generator has ever received.... You'll be just fine!
First, and watching.
That's so funny.
I just bought a single quart of Royal Purple for my new gas powered lawn edger.
It was the only synthetic oil I could find in SAE30.
And of course I got it from Amazon, because all my local stores in my little town were out of stock.
-Chuck
This particular break-oil is a petroleum product (non synthetic) but I will probably switch to synthetic once this last batch of break-in oil comes out. My local parts store seem to only stock ONE quart each of this break-in oil. I got my first quart at the local O'reillys auto, it was the only quart they had..... Then a few weeks later I bough the quart in this video at my local Napa and again, it was the only quart they had in stock. lolol. It's funny because what would most guys do with only ONE quart? It's not like there are any vehicles on the road that only take ONE quart of oil. lolol. I'm lucky when it comes to auto parts stores where I live. I have a Napa, Carquest, Auto Plus, O'reillys, and Autozone all less than one mile from my house.
@@SlipFitGarage
Maybe they are catering to folks with small engine equipment like snow blowers.
The crankcase capacity of my edger is only 3oz.
My town is only population 12,000 but, I have a Ford Dealership, O'Reilly, AutoZone, Napa, Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply Company, and a Walmart with automotive departments on the same street. The city police station, and post office is also the same building too. lol
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform You do have a pretty good selection for a town of only 12,000 people. We have everything you mentioned (except Tractor Supply) but with a population of 90,000. This town has become too busy for me... but that's another story for another day. Lol.
I'm curious if it would take the rest of the listed oil capacity if you ran it for a few seconds so the pump could fill the filter housing and make more room so you could top it off with the extra ounces?
Maybe.... but we are really splitting hairs at that point. I put one quart of oil in my generator, run the generator, then check the oil again and it's still right at the full mark on the factory dipstick.
@@SlipFitGarage I was just wondering if using 32oz in a small engine designed for 37.2oz could cause an issue over time. Besides being about 15% low, I was thinking it might be possible a lower oil level in conjunction with unlevel ground would cause the low oil shutoff to engage. Just a thought. no biggie.
@BV 86 Well, in my mind, full is full. When the dipstick says full, it's full. Not to mention you CAN'T add more oil because of the design of the fill port. Once oil starts to run back out, it's full. One quart of oil in this engine with a funnel and some of it runs back out before you can get the dipstick screwed back in. It's impossible for a human to push oil uphill, higher than the fill hole. Also, in the world of gasoline and diesel burning engines, I can't think of a single engine that is designed to safely run ONLY when it's absolutely full of oil. There may be some extreme examples in Motorsports, but your average everyday vehicle and small gas engine equipment can run on probably 50% of the recommended oil level and cause zero damage. As long as the level of the oil pump pickup or the oil splashing device never runs dry, then it doesn't matter if there's one ounce or 10 gallons of Reserve capacity above that point.
Did you run the break in oil for the first 2 oil change's? Then go to a conventional 10/30 oil.
Yes, correct. That is exactly what I did. And just to be clear.... break-in oil is NOT required by the manufacturer. That is something that I decided to do for myself. If it wasn't for catalytic converters required on all modern cars and light truck, then all of our oil on the market would still have the good zinc and phosphorus anti wear additives like all engine oil once had. They didn't remove those additives from engine oil because they don't protect engines, they removed them from the oil because it can hurt the efficiency of catalytic converters. Maybe that's fine for modern vehicles but I want all the protection I can get, especially during break-in, on these small air cooled gas engines. Just my opinion. I am not telling anyone how to break-in their new generator. I simply showed how I break in new small engines for myself. Thanks for the question.
do you think using an oil extractor is better than trying to manually drain?
If you have an oil extractor, feel free to use it. Extractors were designed for those vehicles where properly draining (through a drain hole) is either impossible because they manufacturer did not include a drain, or for some other reason why proper draining is not possible. I wouldn't say extraction is "better" but that's because I don't think oil extraction is ever the "better" solution for draining oil when a proper drain hole is present, regardless if it's a generator, or a vehicle. (juts my personal opinion) There's nothing better than letting EVERYTHING gravity drain out of the engine, through the drain hole, including any contaminates that could potentially be left behind if/when extracting. Just my $.02. Thanks for the question.
I’ve been researching this generator and wonder if you have had any issues that concerned you? A few folks have mentioned quality concerns so I’m reaching out for advice and info. BTW I appreciate your video and lessons learned.
Hi Gene, l I have not personally experienced any quality issues with this Generator at all, let alone any issues caused by bad quality. In fact, when I first unboxed the generator, the first thing that crossed my mind was how much nicer the build quality was compared to how I imagined it would be. The overall build quality and fit & finish seems very nice. However, one of the previous commenters in this comment section said he read about issues with a solenoid vale somewhere on the generator but I have not had any trouble. I'm not sure exactly what this solenoid vale controls, I'm sure it's either a gas or Propane vale, but if/when I ever do have any trouble, I will just fix or replace that vale with something else. For me, repairs aren't really an issue. I have always done ALL my own repairs on everything I own (except warranty repairs, if any) but I do understand that will be a concern for most people. My generator is just now barely broken-in so I don't have many hours on it yet. It's obviously way too early for me to give any recommendations based on longevity, but so far everything has been great. That's about all I can say about this machine so far. I wish I had more info that I could provide to you..... but maybe it's a good thing that I don't have any information? Maybe that means it's a decent generator after all? I guess time will tell. Thanks for the question.
@@SlipFitGarage Thank you, Brian (I'm assuming that's correct :))
Living here in FL is always a bit dicey during hurricane season. I wish I had started my research sooner in order to take advantage of Black Friday deals. Currently, this unit is about $2200 -- for a retired dude, that's a bit much -- but, I think I'm gonna bite the bullet anyway. My guess is the price will only go up from here as we get closer to stormy weather .
Again, thanks for your reply. Like you, I don't like making modifications to things that I can't reset to original condition, but I like the mods you did on yours and will likely follow suit. Gene
Thanks, Gene.
If you buy one of these generators, once you get it all set-up and running, maybe you could drop another post in this comment section to let us know what your opinion is of the overall quality, and how your purchase/delivery process went for you. Also, if you can remember to do so, if you click the link under my video that takes you to the Amazon listing for this generator before you make your purchase, then this RUclips channel will get a small percentage for helping to make the sale. It doesn't cost you any more money, the seller of the product pays that small commission back to us after the fact. If you have any more question feel free to ask. Thanks again!
@@SlipFitGarage I asked the Genmax folks about the new 7250 model. It only comes with a 50 amp plug -- they assured me that with the included 30 amp adapter I would be fine. I went to the Amazon link for it and found so many disappointed buyers that now I have cold feet for any Genmax. So many buyers expressed disappointment in the customer service after the purchase. I really want a dual-fuel inverter and while I might consider the Honda unit -- it's gas only. We all know that when a hurricane hits FL -- the run on gas is a nightmare and being a sole source of fuel would be a mistake IMHO.
Thanks for the link, Brian. If I decide to take the Genmax route I'll support you. Gene
@@genemcloud4114 Hi Gene.... I don't blame you for being cautious. Non of these import generators sold on-line have local support..... and MOST of the import generators sold in brick and mortar store have no support either. There is simply no official replacement parts supply chain. The best you might do is to buy a Powerhorse from Northern Tool (if you have one nearby) or a Predator from Harbor Freight. Neither of these options will repair your generator if it breaks, but at least you're dealing with a local company. However, the Harbor Freight extended warranty is excellent for the first two years. It's basically a no questions asked full replacement warranty. However, after those first two years, you're on your own again. The Predator 9500 (which is basically the harbor freight version of the Genmax in my video, made in the same factory) can be converted to run on either propane or natural gas with the help of a $180 - $200 dollar conversion kit. But again, if you have any problems after two years, you're on your own. Honestly, I hate to say it.... if you want guaranteed customer service and repair on a generator, whether it's brand new, or 20 years old.... Honda is really the only brand to buy. There are Honda equipment dealers all over the USA who are willing to do repair work on Generators, and there is an official supply chain of parts which makes repairs even possible to begin with. You might find a locally owned private repair shop to work on any brand of generator (even an import) but if/when that shop finds a potential problem, they probably won't be able to locate the parts required to make the repair. Just some food for thought. Thanks for the reply. Good luck on your search. 🙂
Just do the hot/cold to seat the rings about three times around 30 min each. Meaning let it get to running temperature then let it cool all the way off. You'll be good and change the oil. Just what I know about motors. I'm sure someone will say I'm wrong.
That's probably fine to break-in the engine part of this unit, but we're also trying to break-in the generator head that is connected to the engine as well. It's nice to vary the load on the generation unit while breaking it in. Thanks for the comment.
@@SlipFitGarage That I don’t understand. Never heard of breaking in an electric motor. Respectfully…
@@lchope573 Well, I get what you're saying but it's all part of the break in process. Feel free to break-in your generator how ever you see fit. 👍
Great detailed videos...thank you. Has anyone ever told you that you sound just like the actor J.K Simmons 😉
Yes, others have commented that same thing. I honestly didn't know who he was at first. I had to google him. I listened to his voice on a youtube video and I can see where people think I sound like him. Thanks for the compliment on my videos, and thanks for the comment.
@@SlipFitGarage I forgot to ask you how are you liking the Genmax 9000? I’m considering purchasing one. I wish it had more than a 1 year warranty, the Pulsar PGD95BiSCO that’s equivalent has a three-year warranty. Thanks in advance 😉
I've had zero trouble with my Genmax 9000. It's been great! However, I wish I would've waited to get the new 10500 Tri fuel that is available now but I didn't know that version was being developed at that time. The Pulsar is built by the same company that makes Genmax (Dinking Power Machinery) so if that unit has 3X warranty, that might be the way to go.
@@SlipFitGarage thanks bud👍
I am purchasing the GENMAX (GM3500iAED) would you say this is a small generator? Or what size drain hose do you think it would take?
I am about 98% sure that the 3500 will take a drain hose with 10mm threads. But please do not hold me to it. Thanks.
I wonder if you could have run that hose out that bottom hole/slot instead of the side?
Maybe. I'd have to take another look to see how, or if that would work. If I'm not mistaken, the existing hole in the bottom was a thin oval slot, not a round hole. Not that it couldn't be drilled out bigger, but I can't remember if there was something else in the way under there. There had to be a reason why I didn't run it out the bottom. Or, maybe I just had a bran fart? lol. That wouldn't surprise me.... stranger things have happened. lol. Thanks!
@brianok100 I just received my Genmax 9000 today after tons of research and video education. I made the same modifications you did in this video, but had a question. In regards to the oil drain hose, the original factory oil drain plug had a metal washer on it, did you use it on the drain hose you added or did you leave it off? I re-watched your video but didn't see that come up. Thanks for the awesome video, it really helped a not so mechanically inclined fellow like myself.
I am almost certain that I left the washer on the drain plug.
Edit: After just looking a the pictures of the drain hose shown on Amazon, It appears the drain hose has it's own built-in washer along with a sealing o-ring. So, there is NO need to use the washer from the drain plug because the drain hose has it's own sealing surface and o-ring already built in. Thanks for the question.
I just edited my initial reply so be sure to read my most current answer.
@@SlipFitGarage yeah after I wrote you that question I went ahead and tried to put the washer on, but doing so created a gap and blocked the rubber o-ring. So leaving the supplied washer off is the way to go.
The filter screen is OK, but is there a way to make an external oil filter work
The filter screen may be just OK.... but it's absolutely better than any other generator on the market, in the same category, considering no other generators like this have ANY oil filtration whatsoever. And no, there is no connection for an external oil filter. Thanks.
Have this same unit and at 10 hours stater now will not even crank and start. Genmax is now asking me to bring the crap into a repair shop and pay for the repair. I drained the gas jn the tank and carb before storage as well as have the battery in a maintainer. Tested the voltage shiws 12.4 volts. Any idea what is wrong with my generator?
Are they offering to reimburse you for the repair after you pay? Taking it to a repair shop is not out of line, I had to bring my brand new car into the repair shop not too long ago. Brand new mechanical things break sometimes. It happens. However, I am not sure who works on Genmax generators. They don't really have a repair network setup here in the USA that I know of. If the starter won't crank it may have bad starter. Does it do anything when you hit the start button? Does it make ANY noise? Does it even click? Without being there in person makes it hard to diagnose. Describe what it does (if anything) and maybe I can help. Sorry for your trouble.
@SlipFitGarage Genmax said I have to pay for the repair and they will only cover er the inspection. I have to bring this heavy machine to a nearby small engine repair shop.
I finally I got it to run after an hour of work. I tested the battery and at 12.4 volts must be low enough to not excite the starter. So I replaced the battery and also the 10 hour OEM Chinese spark plug with an NGK iridium. I now run much better than new. I say that since when it was new it never starts on propane in the 1st try. Now with the NGK iridium plug it starts immediately both on Gas and propane. One thing is apparent is the OEM battery and spark plug is low quality. My 12 year old ryobi beats this genmax. I wish Ryobi makes a competing product even at a higher price but good quality. @@SlipFitGarage
That's great news! I am happy to hear that you fixed it yourself. Nice job! Yes, cheap Chinese batteries and spark plugs are known problems. It's not a surprise those are the two items that let you down. I honestly thought the overall quality of the Genmax was pretty good. Especially for the price. You say the Ryobi is better quality than the Genmax... and that IS possible, don't get me wrong.... but I assume the Ryobi is also made in China so it's probably very comparable to the Genmax, in all reality. Either way, you're back up and running with the Genmax and that's all that matters. Thanks for the comments.
what's that set up you have on top and with the exhaust? looks pretty cool. after break-in i was thinking of going with amsoil 5-30 full synthetic.
Yes, it is a framework that I made and added to the generator (without altering anything the generator itself. No welds, not bolt holes, etc.) to hold up an exhaust stack without putting any extra weight on the factory exhaust pipe. The generator manufacturer recommends conventional 10w30 in the owners manual but once the engine is fully broke in, it probably wouldn't hurt to run full synthetic. In fact, I might run synthetic myself when I do the next oil change. Do you own one of these Genmax generators?
@@SlipFitGarage Yes, very happy with the purchase. I followed the break-in procedure and then put in amsoil and also added both magnetic dip stick and magnetic oil plug. Also used another youtuber's video showing how to make it home ready with floating neutral bonding plug.
@Q R you may want to consider Amsoil small engine oil. It is a product specifically made for small engines like these generators, not just a rebranded oil. It is what I will be running when my 9000ied gets here on Tuesday.
@@jeremiahwhisler766 will do thanks
The manual actually references both the 5 hour break in and the 30 hour break in in separate chapters. It was confusing to say the least.
I did notice that after the video was made..... I don't have an extra 30 hours to break-in a generator.... 5 hours is PLENTY in my opinion. 30 hours is totally unrealistic for almost everyone. lolol. If it's going to break after the first 5 hours, then it's going to break regardless. To each his own, I guess. lol
Thank you
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment.
How did you make the mess all over the floor ??
It was a catastrophe. LOL. There is a slot in the belly pan of the generator that the oil is supposed to drain out of.... and I had something under there to catch the oil but like I said, I had a catastrophic accident. lolol. I don't remember exactly what happened but something slipped and oil went everywhere. That's not gonna happen again with the new drain hose. Even IF the accident didn't happen, the belly pan is a terrible design. My generator dripped oil from the belly pan for months after that..... and that wasn't caused by me spilling the drain pan UNDER the belly pan, it's because of the terrible design of the belly pan itself. The new drain hose prevents all that mess. It won't happen again. TRUST ME! lolol. Thanks.
I bought a round oil pan from Harbor Freight and cutout the back quarter about 2 inches down using a Dremel tool. Oil pan slides right under the generator where the drain hole sits.
High milage oil works if you cant it brake in oil.
Can't believe you didn't get the generator up to operating temp before draining the oil...standard procedure for any combustion engine
It only had a few hours of time on the engine..... I wanted any small metal shavings that had sunk to the bottom of the engine to drain out of the drain hole, NOT get stirred back up and ran through the engine again. Sure, a LOT of people warm the engine first before an oil change.... but it's not like it's BAD if you don't warm the engine. lol. Feel free to change your oil how ever you like.
How many hours do you think you can get out of a 100lb propane tank?
I have not ran it yet on anything other than gasoline so I can't say for sure...... but I did read somewhere what the propane consumption should be around 50% load but I can't for the life of me remember what that was. Sorry. If you do a google search the results should probably pop up near the top of the page.
@@SlipFitGarage Thanks for the reply the Genmax GM9000iED Specs say 0.67 GPH Propane @ around 50% load so 1 - 100 gallon propane tank should at the very least get me at least 5 days not bad
@@markglenn24 Not bad at all.... Thanks for replying back with the info.
You don't screw in the lipstick to check the oil. Just insert it to the threads, and pull it back out.
You don't even need a dipstick at all. You know it's full when the oil comes up to the bottom of the fill hole..... and then it's impossible to put more oil in. This is typical on a lot of small gas engines. The entire point of the magnetic dipstick is to potentially catch any small steel metal shavings that may be circulating in the oil.
@SlipFitGarage Right. You can do that, but most manufactures say to go two threads below oil overflowing out. My point of the comment was he was only adding one quart of oil because he believed the level to be good on the dipstick because he was screwing it all the way in to check the oil. In reality, he would have added the extra oil the manufacturer called for if the dipstick would have been used correctly.
@@DAVID-yn2iq Well, that "he" is me.... and I put in one quart because the owner's manual said the oil capacity is one quart. Once I added that one quart, the oil level was at the fill hole, which represents the engine is full of oil. The only reason why I used the dipstick was for video purposes to demonstrate for viewers who don't otherwise know any better. 2 threads either way is only splitting hairs. THIS manufacturer never mentions 2 threads of anything. They mention one quart oil capacity. Engine oil level is NOT that critical. As long as the oil level is high enough for the splash device, or pump pick-up to be submerged, it's fine. This is a stationary machine. There are no external forces causing the oil to slosh around and potentially cause the oil level to become temporary low enough to suck (or splash) air. I did not do anything in this video incorrectly. It may not be how you do it, and that is perfectly fine.... But that doesn't mean I did anything "wrong". To each his own. Thanks for the comment.
You didn’t oil pump vacuum to suck the oil out of that make it a lot easier
You're right, I did not vacuum pump the oil out. But you can change the oil however you like on your generator. I keep telling myself I need one of those extractor's but I haven't bought one yet. Maybe next time....
Could you have cut a section out of the drain hose and add a barbed union and NOT cut your generator?
Sure.... could've been done a dozen different ways. Feel free to do it however you like on your generator.
I wonder how many people do this on a $40k automobile :)
Which part? The break-in oil? The Oil drain hose? Or the magnetic dipstick? When talking about break-in oil, you're right most people wouldn't bother with a $40K car, it's usually for guy who has built $50K-$100K racing engine. (very common in drag racing) Most people wouldn't waste their time with ONLY a $40K vehicle. The drain hose (and/or drain hose quick disconnect) is actually a fairly common installation. Just because you're not aware of it, doesn't mean it's not happening. A new $40K automobile has a warranty with a local dealer network that will fix your car for free WHEN it breaks. I've also never seen a modern $40K vehicle sold with tons of metal shavings in the crank case from the factory like these Chinese engine or notorious for.... the magnetic dipstick is cheap
You call that an upgrade?
What word would you use instead of "upgrade"?"
It just kills me that Americans are still buying products from a country that is at war with us.
Hey, I don't like it either but I have no choice. There are products that all Americans use on an every day basis that are simply NOT made in the USA any longer. Anyone who claims they ONLY buy products made in the USA is either completely ignorant, or liar. There are ZERO 9000 watt inverter generators manufactured in the USA. Even a lot of Honda equipment is now manufactured in China and Taiwan.... and is FAR out of my price range.
@@SlipFitGarage You give great reviews don’t get me wrong 👍. But you can’t keep supporting the CCP at any cost. Do like I do save up your money a little longer. You don’t have to buy American just not communist countries there killing us. Believe me I bought alot of CCP products in the past and fully regret it now.
Lol. Not sure if you've been in a cave the last 8 years, but most large American companies have lost their minds and are actively anti-American. I'll buy from small US businesses, but if I'm buying from a large company, I absolutely prefer the Chinese (or anyone else) to large US companies. Sure, they might hate Americans, but large "woke" US companies are a much more immediate danger.
@@bongo646name an American generator
@@bongo646Still waiting for the name of a U.S. made generator, or a non Chinese 10k watt trifuel inverter generator at ANY price.