Cali code says you can't use drywall anchors to hang upper cabinets . Even if the box says it can hold 75 pounds you must take in consideration the dead load of the cabinet ( empty ) plus the live load ( with doors and items stored inside ). once you pepper a wall with drywall anchors you basically cause a fault line in the drywall making it weak. Drywall anchors are made for hanging pictures or floating shelves. Always catch "Studs" when hanging uppers and a proper kitchen layout will take that into consideration when the design is taken place. Overall its a well put together video, but my homie over here who is a L.A. county building inspector fell on the floor over here. Keep up the good content guys.
Blocking in the wall is essential. I was shocked when the IKEA instructions advocated for drywall anchors. You'd be better off putting two screws in each stud. Either one just below the rail to support it or drill an extra hole in the rail for a second screw.
IKEA instructions call out using studs and using drywall anchors for the gaps that are more than 12” between studs. The problem that I’ve found is the holes in the rails are not spaced correctly for the common 16” or 24” stud spacing. They would have been better off using a smaller hole with a staggered pattern to allow for different stud spacing. They also could have made the brackets in the cabinets and the bottom spacers adjustable to accommodate for slightly wavy walls. Overall it’s not a bad system but it has its quirks .
Just what I needed. Although I have over time (and with errors) learned how to decipher IKEA’s wordless manuals, the rail installation is just too important to screw up. Thank you for explaining what we really need to know. It baffles me why IKEA has not produced their own how to videos.
This is by far the best instructional video for these rails. Please continue to make videos as this was really excellent and so helpful - you should continue :-) Thanks so much
Mr. Bee, you have provided very valuable detailed measurements for the first timers who haven’t bought the cabinets or railings to measure and are in the planning phase.
Thank you for such an informative and easy to understand video! I’ve watched some others, but this one gave me everything I was looking for. Much much appreciated :)
As a retired structural engineer and builder, I would recommend not using drywall anchors. Over time, they will come loose, due to the weakness of the drywall. Just find the studs and screw into those. A screw going into wood at 16" o.c. is much stronger than an anchor going into drywall at 12" o.c. I install blocking for the base and uppers, and use 1 3/4" No. 9 flooring screws so they don't hit plumbing or electrical. Cheers from Canada.
I would have to say that you really need to find a many studs as possible and then use anchors where you cannot find studs. In one of my houses the drywall was only 3/8 and the studs are 2x2 instead of 2x4. We are installing a backer of 2x4s at rail height just for support.
Thank you for creating this video. I don’t do daily rehabbing, so videos are super helpful. Feedback: It would be helpful if to see the exact tools down in the description. Other than that thx!
Does the top of the rail line up exactly with the top of the cabinet? I’m putting up battens behind the drywall to screw into and want to make sure they’re in the right place. So do I line up the top of the rail with where I want the top of the cabinets? Or is there a gap?
Hello, question: how much does the rail stick out from the wall? The space between wall. Do the ikea cabnets sit snug to wall or is there a small space.
I live in a condo and I had cabinets installed in a 9 foot space but now I'm worried about the weight (it's an anxiety thing). Concrete walls and floors but how is the weight distributed? Is it on the floor, walls or both?
I am not sure the handyman who installed my cabinet put the suspension rail.. i did not see that. What’s the consequence and imoact to my cabinet/kitchens set. Shall I reinstall again.? Thanks
How do you know how high to mount the rail? So, I'm in Australia, the standard wall cabinet height is 800mm, not including the feet, then I also have to account for the appliance (my washing machine is 850mm tall). So i assume i just need some clearance and wiggle room for the washer...
The enhet is a simpler and more affordable system. I recommend getting a laser level and follow the methods of this video to measure floor and ceiling. For base cabinets set the laser level where u’d have the top of the cabinet and set all to the same. For upper cabinets u can even put a straight piece of wood where the bottom of them are and put the laser on that to set them on there until screwing on the wall to make it easier. Hope this helps
@@tbeeskitchens railing system would’ve been nice on the Enhet. I already installed them. I used the studs to mount them but I had to drill in the back board to hold them and toggle bolts.
The hole is really big ! Where does the screw go inside the hole? It seems like you had it centered but I’m not sure how that would hold it up to the proper height and not fall down. Thank you
Does anything need to be done to the rail (supporting pantry and wall cabinets) so that wires for lighting can be routed to a transformer power supply on the top of the cabinet?
Top of cabinet has to be 5/8 of an inch from the lowest point of the ceiling to be able to comfortably hang it. Which means the bottom of the rail would be 3” from the lowest point
I did enjoy your video, but I don't think it a good idea to rely on drywall anchors to secure kitchen cabinets, nor to rotate the sliding level adjusters so that the elongated holes are vertical. If you look at how drywall is secured to the studs, it's held in place by a few #6 screws, there is no way you should rely on those to support kitchen cabinets. Find the studs and screw into those for cabinet rail support. If you rotate the level adjusters so that the elongated holes are vertical, this reduces the amount of friction available to prevent the levelers from moving. Your video is an example of what I wouldn't do to fasten kitchen rails, and if you're doing what you do for other people, eventually, someone is going to get hurt, and they're going to come after you.
It’s a good video in some ways but I wouldn’t hire these guys to install my kitchen. I don’t want to sound overly harsh but some of the things they do I couldn’t accept. For instance, using fluted screws to install the rail rather than flat head screws; not ensuring that as many studs as possible have a screw going in to them. Of course it’s faster to use only wall anchors but that’s not the right way to do it:
Nothing is impossible. But would need customization as it’s a different system. It would be a lot of pain in the butt to convert the sektion in to an eket. Completly different brackets and sizing. :)
Ikea is quick to supply, doors arnt too bad, fitted three of these kitchens not too many the tiny screws they give for the rail are a worry, small details like built in gasket to sinks with tap reinforcement for a neat $130 sink impress me
Not good idea using drywall anchor for cabinets doors open close they hold 75lb static load at time of installation any movement they hold nothing cabinets will fall off wall leading to injuries
To use the highest floor mark is a wrong advice. You need to do the opposite - the lowest point. Then you will be able to adjust the level of the cabinets at higher points with legs. If you start from the highest point then the adjustable length of the leg may not be enough to right the leg. Overall, this is far away from the best guidance on installation of IKEA cabinets.
His advice is correct. The ikea kitchen leg can be adjusted from 8cm to 9cm, so should find the highest point and make 80+8cm=88cm for that highest point. the rest will be 80+8+(0 to 1cm) to level
@@sky9998 Thank you. You are right, and I was wrong. And my excuses to the author of the video. I got confused when thinking about this and confused the lowest point of the cabinets with the lowest floor mark. It is correct that the highest point of the floor is required to find the lowest point of the cabinets.
Cali code says you can't use drywall anchors to hang upper cabinets . Even if the box says it can hold 75 pounds you must take in consideration the dead load of the cabinet ( empty ) plus the live load ( with doors and items stored inside ). once you pepper a wall with drywall anchors you basically cause a fault line in the drywall making it weak. Drywall anchors are made for hanging pictures or floating shelves. Always catch "Studs" when hanging uppers and a proper kitchen layout will take that into consideration when the design is taken place. Overall its a well put together video, but my homie over here who is a L.A. county building inspector fell on the floor over here. Keep up the good content guys.
Blocking in the wall is essential. I was shocked when the IKEA instructions advocated for drywall anchors. You'd be better off putting two screws in each stud. Either one just below the rail to support it or drill an extra hole in the rail for a second screw.
Agree
IKEA instructions call out using studs and using drywall anchors for the gaps that are more than 12” between studs.
The problem that I’ve found is the holes in the rails are not spaced correctly for the common 16” or 24” stud spacing. They would have been better off using a smaller hole with a staggered pattern to allow for different stud spacing.
They also could have made the brackets in the cabinets and the bottom spacers adjustable to accommodate for slightly wavy walls.
Overall it’s not a bad system but it has its quirks .
Just what I needed. Although I have over time (and with errors) learned how to decipher IKEA’s wordless manuals, the rail installation is just too important to screw up. Thank you for explaining what we really need to know. It baffles me why IKEA has not produced their own how to videos.
I agree! Rail installation is the first step and if that is messed up the whole project is messed up! Glad I could help!
This is by far the best instructional video for these rails. Please continue to make videos as this was really excellent and so helpful - you should continue :-) Thanks so much
Dude, best video on the rail system ive seen. Good vibes. Hope you keep making more vids. Thanks.
Mr. Bee, you have provided very valuable detailed measurements for the first timers who haven’t bought the cabinets or railings to measure and are in the planning phase.
Thank you! This is the best video and explanation for the easiest and most efficient way to hang these IKEA rails. Thanks for the video.
Thanks so much - extremely helpful! This is going to make my day a lot easier.
Thank you for such an informative and easy to understand video! I’ve watched some others, but this one gave me everything I was looking for. Much much appreciated :)
OMG, finnaly someone precise and clear, thank you for this video!
Easy to follow, the shims bit has been best described here...Thanks.
Extremely helpful video. Thank you so much.
As a retired structural engineer and builder, I would recommend not using drywall anchors. Over time, they will come loose, due to the weakness of the drywall. Just find the studs and screw into those. A screw going into wood at 16" o.c. is much stronger than an anchor going into drywall at 12" o.c. I install blocking for the base and uppers, and use 1 3/4" No. 9 flooring screws so they don't hit plumbing or electrical. Cheers from Canada.
10:30 is precisely the reason I watched. Thank you!
Thanks bro, this made it sooooooo much easier!
Great directions Thanks 👍
I would have to say that you really need to find a many studs as possible and then use anchors where you cannot find studs. In one of my houses the drywall was only 3/8 and the studs are 2x2 instead of 2x4. We are installing a backer of 2x4s at rail height just for support.
Thank you for creating this video. I don’t do daily rehabbing, so videos are super helpful.
Feedback: It would be helpful if to see the exact tools down in the description.
Other than that thx!
Curious about "daily rehabbing," what does it mean?
Does the top of the rail line up exactly with the top of the cabinet? I’m putting up battens behind the drywall to screw into and want to make sure they’re in the right place. So do I line up the top of the rail with where I want the top of the cabinets? Or is there a gap?
Thank you so much. I was nervous to cut the rail. I have a jig saw, so just need the proper blade. Best video out
Thanks for this video, very good information. I have an Ikea kitchen install coming up and this is very helpful. +1
this is great best DYI video ever
Hello, question: how much does the rail stick out from the wall? The space between wall. Do the ikea cabnets sit snug to wall or is there a small space.
3/8 of an inch! You need cover panels to cover the gap on sides
What screws did you use on the wall?
Do the cabinets from IKEA come with hardware installed already to hang on this cleat system?
Great video and very useful tips! Greetings from Sicily :)
Thank you for your feedback!
I live in a condo and I had cabinets installed in a 9 foot space but now I'm worried about the weight (it's an anxiety thing). Concrete walls and floors but how is the weight distributed? Is it on the floor, walls or both?
Great video, thanks for the help!
What nails would you recommend using?
Very helpful my friend
Where did u get you tuque ?
Great instructions
I am not sure the handyman who installed my cabinet put the suspension rail.. i did not see that. What’s the consequence and imoact to my cabinet/kitchens set. Shall I reinstall again.? Thanks
No not at all! There is a different type of installing them as well! Also this is only the SEKTION system! So u might have a different system :)
@@tibibndr thank you for the information.. yesterday i asked for the worker and have got clarrification.. :)
Great video!
Im sorry I didnt get catch how much height you left between upper rail and ceiling. Could you tell me the masurement please
I played that over and still couldn't get it. Was it 5/8"? It doesn't seem enough.
Very helpful. thank you.
Thank you very much!!!
Top notch. Thank you.
Well done, thank you!
My favourite wall fitting is "Corefix" 100mm dot and dab secure fixture. I fixed 11 into one ikea rail.
What kind of rail can I use for Ikea Knoxhult cabinets? Thank you
Thanks for the useful tips!
🙌🏽
Thanks!🙏
How do you know how high to mount the rail? So, I'm in Australia, the standard wall cabinet height is 800mm, not including the feet, then I also have to account for the appliance (my washing machine is 850mm tall). So i assume i just need some clearance and wiggle room for the washer...
Why ikea didn’t make that for my ENHET cabinets. I am having hard time installing them. It’s dumb in my opinion
The enhet is a simpler and more affordable system. I recommend getting a laser level and follow the methods of this video to measure floor and ceiling. For base cabinets set the laser level where u’d have the top of the cabinet and set all to the same. For upper cabinets u can even put a straight piece of wood where the bottom of them are and put the laser on that to set them on there until screwing on the wall to make it easier. Hope this helps
@@tbeeskitchens railing system would’ve been nice on the Enhet. I already installed them. I used the studs to mount them but I had to drill in the back board to hold them and toggle bolts.
The hole is really big ! Where does the screw go inside the hole? It seems like you had it centered but I’m not sure how that would hold it up to the proper height and not fall down. Thank you
Thank you, very helpful!
Thank you for your feedback!
What should be the rail height for 1meter wall cabinets and freezer cabinet above the pantry total 240cm
Does anything need to be done to the rail (supporting pantry and wall cabinets) so that wires for lighting can be routed to a transformer power supply on the top of the cabinet?
Not really but I’d suggest to leave out the rail on a couple inches in middle of desired cabinet in order to run wire easier :)
What’s the exact dimensions if I want to hang the sektion cabinets as close to the roof as possible ?
Top of cabinet has to be 5/8 of an inch from the lowest point of the ceiling to be able to comfortably hang it. Which means the bottom of the rail would be 3” from the lowest point
Good tips!
10:22 it took me this long to see what I needed to know 🤦♂️
Great job
Thanks!
I did enjoy your video, but I don't think it a good idea to rely on drywall anchors to secure kitchen cabinets, nor to rotate the sliding level adjusters so that the elongated holes are vertical.
If you look at how drywall is secured to the studs, it's held in place by a few #6 screws, there is no way you should rely on those to support kitchen cabinets. Find the studs and screw into those for cabinet rail support.
If you rotate the level adjusters so that the elongated holes are vertical, this reduces the amount of friction available to prevent the levelers from moving.
Your video is an example of what I wouldn't do to fasten kitchen rails, and if you're doing what you do for other people, eventually, someone is going to get hurt, and they're going to come after you.
You put the washers on wrong, turn them the other way. They are slanted so it allows you to make micro adjustments to the rail.
It’s a good video in some ways but I wouldn’t hire these guys to install my kitchen. I don’t want to sound overly harsh but some of the things they do I couldn’t accept. For instance, using fluted screws to install the rail rather than flat head screws; not ensuring that as many studs as possible have a screw going in to them. Of course it’s faster to use only wall anchors but that’s not the right way to do it:
Thank you for your feedback🙌🏽
totally agree! The guys had some great tips but not using as many wall studs as possible is a big no no IMHO.
This is quite sufficient for lower cabinets whose weight rests on legs.
Good video, but i was really hoping to see an example of installing a shim
Yea I thought about that too! But it doesn’t happen very often so couldn’t record it! Thanks for the feedback
Just what I needed. I knew what the rail does, I couldn't figure out the height.
Do you think it’s possible to use an “eket suspension rail” for a “sektion” upper cabinet?
Nothing is impossible. But would need customization as it’s a different system. It would be a lot of pain in the butt to convert the sektion in to an eket. Completly different brackets and sizing. :)
100% NO
10:37 no. Not like that. The other way, straight. Its supposed to move to be adjustable. Saw that on another vid.
In out case that’s why we cut the rail shorter with an inch which I mentioned. So u can adjust cabinets instead of the rail :)
Please more IKEA. How to add fillers
Good luck to team Puerto Rico and my nephew Danny Pop’s Melendez
What's next T-Bee?
Assembly vids!
@@tbeeskitchens of all the videos I looked at to figure all this out, yours was the best! I'm surprised you only have 2 videos up! Do more!
Ikea is quick to supply, doors arnt too bad, fitted three of these kitchens not too many the tiny screws they give for the rail are a worry, small details like built in gasket to sinks with tap reinforcement for a neat $130 sink impress me
4:00 minute mark for my time stamp
Thanks for the video
Not good idea using drywall anchor for cabinets doors open close they hold 75lb static load at time of installation any movement they hold nothing cabinets will fall off wall leading to injuries
5:36 🤣🤣
🤣
watching after i fitted it
I would not trust drywall anchors to hold up cabinets. People have been known to sit on cabinets.
👍
Asalamalakem
32 and 3 16's - ermmm what?
To use the highest floor mark is a wrong advice. You need to do the opposite - the lowest point. Then you will be able to adjust the level of the cabinets at higher points with legs.
If you start from the highest point then the adjustable length of the leg may not be enough to right the leg.
Overall, this is far away from the best guidance on installation of IKEA cabinets.
His advice is correct. The ikea kitchen leg can be adjusted from 8cm to 9cm, so should find the highest point and make 80+8cm=88cm for that highest point. the rest will be 80+8+(0 to 1cm) to level
@@sky9998 Thank you. You are right, and I was wrong. And my excuses to the author of the video. I got confused when thinking about this and confused the lowest point of the cabinets with the lowest floor mark. It is correct that the highest point of the floor is required to find the lowest point of the cabinets.
Yea! Kinda confusing at first :)
Yea, it can be confusing glad you saw it correctly. I might add the shortest distance between the laser and the floor is your high spot.