Chevy S-10 Lower Ball Joint Replacement...... With Factory Rivets ...UGH!!!!
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- Chevy S-10 Lower Ball Joint Replacement With Factory Rivets.
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I have a K1500 and a shop quoted me 160.00 labor to change the ball joints on one side with a failed safety inspection. The upper was bad and the rivets were a real PITA. I'm going to replace all the ball joints and axles once the weather gets warmer. People who make decent DIY videos are amazing because it allows more people to save their cash for other things.
Thanks man! Let us know how it goes! Rivets ...ugh
I still cant even fathom who decided rivets were a good idea on ball joints.
I'm not hating but torquing everything is extremely important
Agree, especially when rust like to help ;)
$160 to replace a side that is cheap. Willing to pay $360 in Boston for one side. Done it twice before too.
Gotta say that this is one of the better vids ive seen. You didnt miss one step. Explained everything in a intelegent way. 👍👍👍👍
Cool man! I know these SUV's are coming back and people are restoring them!
But that break hose don't do what he did and let it hang other then that Yeah
I'm glad there's people like you that take the time to make these videos and help people out. Thanks!
Thanks.
TVWXMAN32 I would definitely pin to the top about the chisel though for the rivets. I tried grinding and that leaves the edges burred and make it harder to hammer out so you keep grinding down again and again. Also tried drilling and that's not great. Chisel is awesome and effortless. I was amazed how easy it cut them off and the joint will fall out by itself almost that way cause it don't leave the burs that snag the hole.
Yea hard lowers to take out. Glad I was able to help someone.
Yes thank you for you're video.
Thank you sir!!! Wish i would have found this before three hours of busted knuckels and curse words lol your the only one i have found that shows what wanted keep up the great work!!!!!
Nice!!
I have been looking for a video for exactly this purpose for awhile now. Thank you for taking the time to do this it is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! Well done
Thanks and happy fixing!
That’s a kool trick using two wrenches to get more leverage removing bolts! Thanks!!!
It's a great way to break the jaw off the open end wrench and very dangerous.
Just found your channel recently doing upper and lower control alarms basically rebuild the whole front end on a 2002 Chevy S 10 for my son‘s first truck so definitely video has came in great use and you do a great job at what you do sir thank you!! And I’m definitely a new👍💯
Very cool!
How's your son's truck doing
Man, I love the old floor jack, I’ve never seen one like it , that’s really cool
Very nice how you used the grinder rather than beat it with a hammer and a sharp tool or air tool to get if off . good job on how you explain in detail the whole replacement. better than other videos on this that I have watched.
;D
I've done em, and they're a pain. Good video, you get right to the point.
Awesome video!!! iwas simply trying to beat the bottom ball joint off..
i wasnt aware that i had to take off the top oine first!!! thanks man!!!
Nice!
Thank you for this video. I did this yesterday and could not get that damn ball joint out. The grinder did the trick. What a pain in the ass.
Right!!
thank you this video helped me replace my upper ball joints. keep saving people time and money brother man
Hard work. Thanks.
Watching your video right now while doing it LOL just went to the alignment shop and discovered my driver side lower ball joint was severely bad thank you very much
Excellent video. I have a GMC SONOMA 1998 Guessing about the same procedure, YOUR VIDEO WAS OUTSTANDING EXPLANATION AND TRAINING. THANK YOU
Thanks!~
I use my air chisel it makes quick work of those rivets then use it to separate the joint from the control arm, I understand a lot of people don't have a compressor but If you do any kind of DIY a compressor comes in handy and will pay for itself in the time and effort you save, i used to work with only hand tools when I was younger and as a result I have arthritis in my hands which is especially painful in the winter, they're not expensive but the tools can be depending.
You are so right!~!~!~~
I always used a 1/8 drill bit to drill a he in each rivet then move up one size until the hole diameter is the same as the control arm then knock it out. That way it saves the control arm from damage from grinder or deformities. And yes i use a center punch before drilling. Always works great for removing rivets
Thanks! Great to know.
A good chisel for use on steel is the easiest and best way. You lay it kind of flat and chisel the rivet top right off without doing anything at all to the arm. I've tried both ways. Just a good tip for next time. They cut off real easy that way. Just a few light taps with a small framing hammer on the chisel.
Dang that chisel idea is great!
steven wittbrodt didnt you mean to say “RIBITS”
How often do the upper and lower ball joints last on s10's,blazer or Jimmy's?
I gotta agree not may out there does this good on the how to so ill be defiantly saving this video to show to people who want to do balljoints themselves of they cant afford the shop charge very useful and correct matter of balljoint replacement and yes i am an ASE Certified technician who does care about great service and i do want to see my customers get the correct information and education on DIY instructions so amazing job man cutos!!!
Hey Nathan, great job very informative and video editing was on point. Worried I had to grind and now I know.
Nice!!
Great video you did a great job on that thanks for the Help
Nice!~
Thanks Nathan. My bottom passenger ball joint just broke and I'm waiting for a tow now. I figured why not check a good clean video out to see how to replace it. "1993 shortie"
Thanks for good video, I own a 98 s10 and this is my project today.
Nice!
WOW....you made that look easy...okay not TOO easy but ...just floored...Thank you !
But at the end of the day...I was reminded I'm not at young as I use to be ;( haha
This video saved me a lot of money (over a shop repair, $600 for one lower control arm ball joint!) and gave me the assurance of the steps needed to get the job done. I am very grateful to you Nathan, thank you! My suggestion is save yourself a lot of problems and just buy a lower control arm with the ball joint included. It's way cheaper to buy online then say AutoZone but AutoZone had it in stock and I was able to get my project underway rather then wait 2-7 days depending on who you order from. Using a grinder weakens the control arm and, while useful to know, is a quick and dirty method of repair. I tried your method here Nathan, and didn't like the grind method. Worked fine for the upper ball joint but the bottom was so bad I gave up and bought a new lwr control army assembly. FYI, if you remove and replace the entire lower control arm, it's has more steps than the top control arm for sure. BTW, '02 S10 4WD
Excellently done video
Nice!!!
Great video, Thanks! Exactly what I needed for a refresher course. S-10 = Jimmy.
Thanks! I just bought another one...god help me....lol
excellent video thanks for posting
;))
Thank you for this! I've got to replace several things in the frontend of my 2002 S10 2wd and these are one of them. I know it will be different from your 4wd but this helps. I know the abs sensor is different, it's in the dust plate and not the hub, and of course I don't have an axle to remove. Also I understand that the ball joint on mine is pressed out and in. Hopefully I can find a "how to" on the rest of the things I need to change, maybe even a video on this for a 2wd S10. It's been a long time since I've done any frontend work, I needed a refresher course.
My frontend parts aren't worn out completely and some parts have recently been replaced, but I don't like taking chances with the steering parts. I'm going to completely rebuild the frontend except the parts already replaced.and hopefully it will last until I'm gone for good! I'm 68 so..not looking for them to last a long time...
We're paddling the same canoe my friend ! I'll be 69 next week and this will be my "birthday present" LOL !! I just LOVE my little S10 ! I has been a GREAT little truck !! Even my wife loves it !!
Thank you!!!! I needed this!!!
You are a life saver, thank you!
LOL...Thanks!~
Nice work amigo
I replaced one side in my 2002 Chevy blazer today upper n lower n all I had was a dremel drill so more or less took me about 4 hours to do one side such a pain in the arse when out tonight n bought an angle grinder hopefully tommarrow is easier
Nice man! You can Do it!!
I just replaced my hubs on both sides. Had a lot of trouble with the top caliper mounting bolt. I ended up jacking up the suspension enough that I could fit a socket with an extension.
Great tip!
Awesome video, very helpful!
Cool!
Thanks Bud,great video!! You explained it very well and showed everything!! Awesome!!!
Thanks. Take your time and protect the axel end with castle nut at point where you beat it with a hammer.
It did help me out tho thank you
Word!~
good work , by a real mechanic.
Great audio sound, great picture and thanks for taking the time to show the steps. Gonna do all mine now.
Nice!
Grinder for the win!
Yea baby!~~~~
Best way to me to do the old rivets are with a good steel chisel. Will cut them easy and flush and better job than a grinder. And it'll cut them easier than you think
you mean a chisel or some kind of power tool?
Thanks for the video. ✌️
Nice!
Great video. All around. Thanks
Nice!~
I'm a big fan of not doing things twice or three times when I don't have to. When I did mine I replaced both balljoints, hub bearing, inner and outer tie rods. The parts aren't all that much and it saves me from having to go back in and doing it again.
Right on man!
Glad to see you took it slow and explained each step of the process. I hate when they speed up these types of repair videos 10 times and the guy looks like he's on speed. Good job man, thanks...
Hey man, great job! Helped me a lot!
thanks for the video , very informative , i have a 94 S10 i am getting ready too do the lower ball joints ,
Happy Fixing!!
Nicely done
Thank you for posting this repair. Helped me a lot.
Nice!~
Thank you sir!
great video thanks for the help!
I'm doing a steering and suspension overhaul on a 1998 chevy s-10 blazer so it's all the same pretty much I replaced control arm bushings ball joints (upper and lower) tie rod ends (inner and outer) sway bar end links shocks idler arm pitman arm but it was all worth it because it drives much smoother now
Nice...and safe also!~~
Maybe you should do a video! And get paid!~ ;)
@@FixingWithPassion I would but I don't have a camera nor the tools I'm doing the steering and suspension overhaul at my schools auto tech program and the reason why we have so many tools is because we get them 50% off because we are a constant customer and they will make a bunch of money of us over time I mean like I think we have 100,000 $ worth in tools in our tool room alone basically everything we have is snap on it's honestly like tool heaven every socket they make we have including 3/4 drive tools I don't personally care for snap on their nice but their over priced in my opinion I say a tool is a tool but if you get 50% off and you get the luxury of turning in old tools for brand new ones for free I'd say that's pretty good
Thanks, very helpful vids! I'm getting ready to do new upper control arm,up and low ball joints,hubs and tie rods on a 2000 Jimmy and your vids covered all the bases I wasn't sure about. Thanks again
That's alot of stuff , like brand new when done lol
How did dat work out for u cuz I wanna do mine myself
Great, Great video thank you sir!
Nice!!
Thank you!
Nice!
Good video. Showed everything without any extra crap to watch. What kind of camera are you using?
Thanks man! $40 JVC Everio. Hopefully I'll get to doing videos in a few days...Thanks for watching.
Great job thank you for video
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for a great film. Does it matter if you place the attaching bolts upward or downward (around @19:15)? I put them first like you did (upward), but then changed on downward (so bolts go down, nuts on the bottom), bcs it says so in Haynes and I think I saw another film, when the bolts go downward. In e-manual they don't say directly, but on the scratch picture the bolts are going up. Seems like it is more safe when the bolts go downward. I would appreciate your opinion on this matter. 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier.
Cool jack!
is the wheel turned to the right? maybe that would help with getting that top bolt off easeir giving enough space
Yea
Doing mine now. Have everything loose and it looks like i can replace without taking upper ball joint and the saddle and the tie rod off to sneek it out of there. Ill update how this works out, if it is possible. Its been replaced and the lastt person had bolts hanging down. Hopefully i can clear the axle and get them out. ????????????
this helped me alot, thank you. btw, ive never seen a sledge hammer just break in half like that.
I have a 2000 Chevy s10 4x4, my question is do the ball joints have to be pressed in ? I noticed you didn’t do that.
Only factory ones get pressed using rivets. OEM comes with bolts/ nuts
Good video
Thank you sir for the tutorial on how to change my passenger side ball joint its making a noise and honestly its scary driving down the road with it making noise
O my!
@@FixingWithPassion yeah not good i kinda need the truck
Thanks good work I have to do the same thanks again
Happy Fixing!
good guide, thanks for sharing!
Thanks! I don't want to ever do that job again. My body says....No, no, no, no, no.....no.
Also, with some time and work, could those stock rivets be chiseled out?
Thanks boss, couldn't have done it without ya! 1 down, 1 to go. Just broke my 1/2 to 3/8ths drive tho, guess it's time to upgrade those wimpy 3/8ths sockets...
Good deal. Hard rivets to bust out....ugh
Surprisingly mine was 4 bolts(ZR2), no rivets so I assume they had been done before but dam were they floppy.
Lucky Sucker! lol
Very informative and I really understood what you were saying while replacing the lower ball joint. I'm now confident that I can replace mine on my Sonoma. Thank you very much
Excellent video! I was concerned about how to get the rivets off of my 93 Typhoon. Doing all ball joints and tie rods because the boots are torn. This was insanely helpful. Thank you....sub from me!
Great!!
That dang Cardinal.
It's tweeting !
That’s a real good video man appreciate you putting it together for us I’m getting ready to do mine. Let’s me know what I got to look forward to👍
Nice!
Well done.
Thanks!
I LOVE THAT 🤬 JACK 🤬 AWESOME JACK
Muy bueno vídeo impecable gracias
how do you know when ball joints are shot? my 89 s-10 sqeeks when goes up and down/hits bumps.. and I steer right and left? is that ball joints? or something else? Thanks!!
Gone give me that snik pick baby! lol
im changing pads and rotors on my S10 and could not get the 18mm nut off. im going to try the double wrench method tomorrow
ok!
@@FixingWithPassion worked like a champ
So if I have to replace BOTH upper and lower ball joints which one should be done first?? Does it matter to make the whole process easier? Thanks!!
The one that makes you happy ;)
What an awesome video!! Thank you!! I learned so much and feel confident I can do it now!.. Do you have a video on the control arm bushings for the same truck??
Will this apply to an 2000 Chevy s10 2wheel drive those hub bearings don’t look like mine I have standard wheel bearings inside the rotor hmmm
Very informative. Thank you Sir for a no drama watch .
great work thank u sir
Thanks! Wishing you the Best!
Of course this is happening to me as I'm moving and buying a house haha and can't afford for a shop to do it haha
What year is that S-10? I see the big boot, is that a front wheel drive?
This was awesome!. Thank you very well done.! Lots of work How long did it take to do one side?
Thanks! I'm still tired ....
I have a 96' chevy s10 4x4... would this be about the same procedure?? Your truck looks a bit newer than mine..
Dang,
That upper would get changed too,
Already in there....😳
Word!
Great video, always like those s10s/ Sonomas
Yea there nice rides. The even ride nice with bad shocks and struts...lol
Helpful
Ooh mate I'm sure like you don't have the truck anymore since it's an older video. Tho we're those tires like the 235/75r15s??????? Since it's a 4x4 like they have the 16s I believe or something but are those the 15s on that truck if you remember? Oh also a crew cab s10??? Those weren't just the GMC crew cabs only? I actually don't know and that just clicked for me like right now watching the video again lol hehe.
I have a slightly older version of an S-10 Blazer with exactly those wheels. Those wheels are 15 inches, just as you guessed, and the tallest tires you could get from the factory were the size you stated, 235/75x15. S-10 pickups and S-10 Blazers were identical in that respect (they dropped the "S-10" designation from the Blazer beginning in 1995, but they were still S-10s in all respects).
@@ericl2969 yeah Ive been racking my head trying to get different tires for my Sonoma that I have. It has the 205/ 75 15s on it at the moment and all new tires on that are trailer tires, kinda don't feel like putting those on actually. I've been looking for 215/65 15s or that or 70s in there too. Places told me that yeah I can go with the 215/70 15s and also it will look ok too because yeah thered be a big gap from the fenders and or bed to the top of the tires. I wanted to know if even those 235s rub anything in the front when like turning n stuff. I know it possible that well it's ONLY do that when you turn the wheel lock to lock right but possible I need to do that. Still trying to solve that sticky wicket lol, also have one tire that has a nail in it so yeah it's losing air now.
@@photondebuger45 My truck ('95 S-10 Blazer) has exactly the same fender wells as an S-10 or Sonoma pickup, and 235/75x15 fit nicely. It looks like a tight fit with the wheels turned all the way right or left, but there's actually even room for tire chains as long as you don't let the chains get loose. However, I don't think you specified whether your Sonoma is two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive. The front suspensions on 4x4 versus 4x2 versions are slightly different and it could be that the tires fit in the fender well a little more snugly on the two-wheel drive models, and in that case it might be that 235/75x15 tires could be a little too big (I don't know for sure). But if your truck is 4x4, that size tire will be fine (in that case, I do know for sure).
@@ericl2969 yeah mine is a two wheel drive not a 4x4
Holy floor jack.
1946
@@FixingWithPassion tried and true!
Also people need to know that non greaseable ball joints if you buy this kind do not need a grease fitting or grease as it actually damages them. They have a synthetic type liner that lubricates it for life and the grease you may put in can actually damage the joint. They will last about as long as a regular one you have to grease and without having to grease it so to me that's all I'll buy. Also only get a good brand. Moog is the best most known brands the shops will suggest. But personally I've had awesome luck with reybestos pro grade and some of those come with polyurethane boots that won't rot easy like the regular rubber. You will hear a lot of mechanics and others talk bad about the non greaseable joints but you have to realize these guys are using a needle or other ways usually and putting grease in the joint before they install it which actually will reduce the life of the joint. So never grease a non greaseable joint. They come with all the lube they need for life period. Also never get the junk brand. And never hammer a joint in. They should always have a ball joint press used when replacing only the joint on the press fit that you normally see. Hammering joints in causes internal damage to the ball. Really unusual for joints to bolt on like this one here but some do.
Brandon Bailey
A bolt in joint isn't unusual at all bud. I've never seen a ball joint that you can buy that WASN'T bolted in.
@@rameynoodles152 they are called press in ball joints and you use a press tool in order to get them in, Not all are bolted on.
Sean Ramey most require a press
no washers on the ball joint bolts (rivet replacements)?
Nope
Great video Nathan. Read most of the comments on technique to remove rivets, yours & others do the job fine, just depends on what you have available at hand to remove them. Thought I'd throw in my ten cents worth. After removing the old ball joint, make sure to clean/wire brush around the area where the replacement ball joint mounts to the control arm to ensure a clean mounting surface for the new ball joint.
I appreciate this video but the one thing I'd add that I did not see you do is to add some thread locker (red Lock-tight) to the threads of the nuts that hold the ball joint on. The nuts you used were not self tightening and you didn't even use lock washers.
GoodOlJoe ....Yea, your are right. I did make sure they were tight. You'd think them nuts would be bigger. Will do that in my next video. Thanks.
You should support the caliper from the start with wire or a bungie cord, never by the hydraulic line. That can cause damage you don't want.
Yea good practices.
RIP sledgehammer lol
I've broken so many....I have a stock of them now days.
always wished they made them a bit bigger like the dodge dakota
Yet the dodges tend to break ball joints more than any other truck it seems
Thanks for this very informative video! Just found out that a front end alignment cannot be done on our 1991 S10 because of loose lower ball joints! Estimate of $340.00 - wanted to see if it could be done by my significant other! NOT - so worth the $’s to have it done by a certified mechanic... decision made....
Yep been there! Thanks for watching and happy fixing!~~ Save them $$
thanks man like the video!!!
Thanks man! 272 views.....Epic....lol
vice grip on that cotter pin would ease your pain! and ours!