0:00 - 0:21 Intro 0:22 - 1:05 Why you need to preload bushings 1:06 - 2:26 Example of how preloading works 2:27 - 4:08 How and when to preload bushings 4:09 - 6:10 Which bushings need to be preloaded 6:11 - 7:18 Other tips
Hi, thanks for covering this. I'm surprised how many people don't know this. Quick tip from my experience : easiest way for me is not to use ramps, but hydraulic transmission jacks or smth like that. They are pretty high and can push wheel to ride height
No problem! I don't like jacking up from the suspension since it doesn't compress the suspension as it would naturally unless you are jacking from the rotor (also not good)
perfect freaking timing on putting this video out.... I'm about to start installing new a suspension on my e39 this is great information! thanks brother
Jason thank you for the video. However I think it should be renamed,”How to avoid damaging preloading of bushing’s “. I was rebuilding the rear of my E46 when I came across all the talk of preloading. As an engineer it confused me as this is NOT true preloading , even though this term is being used. The goal is to prevent preloading or at least minimize it. Once I realized this things made sense. BMW clamps the rubber joint so that it doesn’t rotate but actually stretches the rubber in jounce and rebound. This provides isolation and increases the spring rate of the suspension. Most suspension joints in the universe rotated freely by using greased axles or balls and are free of strain. BMW, by using the joint as a rubber band, makes it important to clamp the bushing at zero ( or close to) deflection. Otherwise if you clamp the bushing at full jounce (droop) and then bottom out the car while driving, your tearing the rubber of the joint. Again thank you and all the other tubers with videos on this. The only reason for this long winded diatribe is if people understand what’s happening and the actual goal , then if they can’t follow a “recipe “ as written, they can think their way through to a solution.
Dang I needed this video. After taking my arms off when I thought i needed to remove my subframe to take out my water pump, my car hasn't been driving the same at all. The handling on curves is terrible.
I didn’t preload mine and just did an alignment. In theory I should be able to jack up my truck, loosen the bolts on the lower control arm lower the jack and tighten the bolts. When at right height question is will I need another alignment?
Should the car be weighted prior to tightening new suspension links? BMW service manuals for the E46 and E39 recommend 150 lbs in each front seat, 150 lbs in the center of the back seat, and 50 lbs in the cargo area when installing suspension arms and performing an alignment. How important is this? What about makes besides BMW?
Jason. Do you have a video on removing flange studs from exhaust down pipes while the downpipes are still on the car. (BMW E90 330i). I have seen other videos, but interested to see how you would go about it. This is the flange where the downpipes join with the rest of the exhaust system.
Crap... saw this video too late. Installed the arms incorrectly and the rubber broke in less than a month. I thought they were defective. Now I know why. Thanks for the lesson.
i replaced all my suspension parts including every control arm, sway bar links, shocks and strut mounts all to stock parts and even got an alignment and yet im having issues with my steering wheel and car shaking right when i get to 60 but smoothening when im at 75 is there anything i should be looking at to replace next maybe motor mounts or tires
I'd check wheels/tires and make sure they are balanced properly (preferably with a roadforce balancer). Also possible for wheel bearings to be shot or even an issue with the brake rotors/sticking caliper
How's its going shop life man I got a serious question would you please help I have a 07 750li which I had bought 2 years ago I drove it a year and sat it up a year I haven't driven it so I go buy a battery program start car it ran started throwing codes so I turned it off tryed cranking now nothing no start no crank nothing just say remote unresponsive the fob wont stay in ignition I'm lost please help me
I have a bmw 550 2012 with 121810 miles. How long can i go before I replace the control arms, tie rod, links ,etc. there is no signs of need to replace. Whats your opinion? Thanks
i would say keep an eye on the when u can with just simply jacking your car and checking your bushings for any rips leaks or play. i dont think you need to replace if you’re not feeling shaking or any signs of wear
I have a question my e46 Ac is acting weird my ac throws heat the sides of the vents are throwing cold but the middle vents is throwing heat Please help me out
I’d this why e46’s eat through wishbones? Because it’s hard to torque the bolts on the bushings with the suspension preloaded? Ok so I watched the video through and gif the answe
Tighten and torque the fasteners at "ride height." You can measure the ride height while the car is still on the ground before jacking it, such the distance from the top of the tire to the top of the wheel well. Then before tightening the fasteners, put the tire back on the hub temporarily, put a jack under the control arm, and raise it to the point you get the same tire-to-wheel-well measurement. Remove the tire while it's raised to that height and torque the fasteners.
I’m glad you covered this topic. Most DIYers and some shops have made this mistake - overlook the proper preload installation. Great vid guys!
Unfortunately it happens quite often. Most people won't even realize it until the bushings are worn prematurely. Thanks Rich!
0:00 - 0:21 Intro
0:22 - 1:05 Why you need to preload bushings
1:06 - 2:26 Example of how preloading works
2:27 - 4:08 How and when to preload bushings
4:09 - 6:10 Which bushings need to be preloaded
6:11 - 7:18 Other tips
Nice!
Very nicely done!!! Nailed it with the detailed close-up shots/on-screen graphics.
Thanks
Best teacher on RUclips!!
Hi, thanks for covering this. I'm surprised how many people don't know this. Quick tip from my experience : easiest way for me is not to use ramps, but hydraulic transmission jacks or smth like that. They are pretty high and can push wheel to ride height
No problem! I don't like jacking up from the suspension since it doesn't compress the suspension as it would naturally unless you are jacking from the rotor (also not good)
Thanks for doing this one Jason!
Of course! Hope all is well!
A lot of details didn't know of. Especially what you said once you at the alignment shop. Thanks.
perfect freaking timing on putting this video out.... I'm about to start installing new a suspension on my e39 this is great information! thanks brother
Jason thank you for the video. However I think it should be renamed,”How to avoid damaging preloading of bushing’s “.
I was rebuilding the rear of my E46 when I came across all the talk of preloading. As an engineer it confused me as this is NOT true preloading , even though this term is being used. The goal is to prevent preloading or at least minimize it. Once I realized this things made sense.
BMW clamps the rubber joint so that it doesn’t rotate but actually stretches the rubber in jounce and rebound. This provides isolation and increases the spring rate of the suspension. Most suspension joints in the universe rotated freely by using greased axles or balls and are free of strain. BMW, by using the joint as a rubber band, makes it important to clamp the bushing at zero ( or close to) deflection. Otherwise if you clamp the bushing at full jounce (droop) and then bottom out the car while driving, your tearing the rubber of the joint.
Again thank you and all the other tubers with videos on this. The only reason for this long winded diatribe is if people understand what’s happening and the actual goal , then if they can’t follow a “recipe “ as written, they can think their way through to a solution.
thank you very much I am trying to learn everything about my 2004 e46 wagon that I just purchased
Good explanation Kur. Thanks for sharing. Dutch regards, Nico.
Very informative video, thanks
Dang I needed this video. After taking my arms off when I thought i needed to remove my subframe to take out my water pump, my car hasn't been driving the same at all. The handling on curves is terrible.
Extremely helpful content 👏
i did not do this and check today my new bushing are really going out wow. thanks tho!
I didn’t preload mine and just did an alignment. In theory I should be able to jack up my truck, loosen the bolts on the lower control arm lower the jack and tighten the bolts. When at right height question is will I need another alignment?
Thanks man, I learned something new today! I didn’t know that the sway bar end links are supposed to be preloaded. Oops!
Should the car be weighted prior to tightening new suspension links? BMW service manuals for the E46 and E39 recommend 150 lbs in each front seat, 150 lbs in the center of the back seat, and 50 lbs in the cargo area when installing suspension arms and performing an alignment. How important is this? What about makes besides BMW?
This is very informative thank you
can u show us a example on how to preload on jack stands?
Great video guy’s 👍👍
As always great video.
Jason. Do you have a video on removing flange studs from exhaust down pipes while the downpipes are still on the car. (BMW E90 330i). I have seen other videos, but interested to see how you would go about it. This is the flange where the downpipes join with the rest of the exhaust system.
great explanation
Crap... saw this video too late. Installed the arms incorrectly and the rubber broke in less than a month. I thought they were defective. Now I know why. Thanks for the lesson.
Great info my friend
I might sound STP but how do I preload and tighten everything if my cars low and I’m kinda big to fit under my car on the ground?
Preloading ball joints doesn't seem necessary.
But bushings 100% YES
does this correspond with control arm bushing?
i replaced all my suspension parts including every control arm, sway bar links, shocks and strut mounts all to stock parts and even got an alignment and yet im having issues with my steering wheel and car shaking right when i get to 60 but smoothening when im at 75 is there anything i should be looking at to replace next maybe motor mounts or tires
I'd check wheels/tires and make sure they are balanced properly (preferably with a roadforce balancer). Also possible for wheel bearings to be shot or even an issue with the brake rotors/sticking caliper
Good info!
Thanks!
How's its going shop life man I got a serious question would you please help I have a 07 750li which I had bought 2 years ago I drove it a year and sat it up a year I haven't driven it so I go buy a battery program start car it ran started throwing codes so I turned it off tryed cranking now nothing no start no crank nothing just say remote unresponsive the fob wont stay in ignition I'm lost please help me
Great tips. If I recall the E46 CAB rubber do not have a bolt through them, correct?
Thanks! And no they do not, they just have to be installed in the right orientation
@@ShopLifeTV awesome, phew. That was a close one
Will vanos rattle at all rpm?
I have a bmw 550 2012 with 121810 miles. How long can i go before I replace the control arms, tie rod, links ,etc. there is no signs of need to replace. Whats your opinion? Thanks
i would say keep an eye on the when u can with just simply jacking your car and checking your bushings for any rips leaks or play. i dont think you need to replace if you’re not feeling shaking or any signs of wear
that all depends on how much wear everything has
I have a question my e46 Ac is acting weird my ac throws heat the sides of the vents are throwing cold but the middle vents is throwing heat
Please help me out
take out the centre vent and check the cable is connected to green arm which controls the flaps to divert the heat to the side vents.
@@carlwood5501 it used to work correctly before
Hey man am trying to get some answers
Are you Indian by chance ,!!
Be blessed dude🙏
I’d this why e46’s eat through wishbones? Because it’s hard to torque the bolts on the bushings with the suspension preloaded?
Ok so I watched the video through and gif the answe
That’s why you buy through fcp euro. Liege time guarantee
Yup, also weak bushing design. If you plan to stay with OE parts, upgrade to the HD parts, if available.
I had a real bitch of a time trying to preload my RTABs on my e46 m3. Working with floor jack and jack stands….not fun lol
I love you bro
Okay so then you guarantee bro that I have to tighten the nuts with the torque wrench until the car is on the ground??? Answer me this question bro
Tighten and torque the fasteners at "ride height." You can measure the ride height while the car is still on the ground before jacking it, such the distance from the top of the tire to the top of the wheel well. Then before tightening the fasteners, put the tire back on the hub temporarily, put a jack under the control arm, and raise it to the point you get the same tire-to-wheel-well measurement. Remove the tire while it's raised to that height and torque the fasteners.
Pre loading is something to be avoided.
You'd have so much more views if you titled this correctly. Clickbait nonsense doesn't work.
Please what's your real name I want to follow u on all social media handle
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