Good insight for my friends that are new to climbing and debating shoes. I started outdoors before the gym and also found the tarantulace great for outdoors (particularly slab in CCC) but definitely hurting my feet more indoors. Of course temperature in the gym may also cause some additional swelling too. Overall sick review!
Did the stiffness and upper materials have an impact on how long you could wear them? Thinking of a 30 minute project sesh vs putting them on and off between bouldering problems
Honestly not really. I had no problems wearing all of the shoes for 30 minutes, but Id want to take the shoes off probably every 30 minutes to let my feet air out a bit
There are two versions of Black Diamond Momentum: the one you had with a knit toebox, and the one with full cloth toebox. I didn't realise that before purchasing the latter version myself, and it is actually the opposite of everything you've mentioned as advantages of the model. It is quite uncomfortable for a beginner shoe, because the cloth is quite stiff (my toes actually bled a lot till I broke them in), it does not breath at all (even something like la sportiva solution comp breathes much better), and I think they are just built poorly for the full price (about 100 euros here). They are now discounted in our region to about 70 euroes, and it makes a bit more sense. In the end they've become very comfortable and I could walk in them for hours with no issues. However, once they've stretched a bit, my big toes stopped being curled in some cases, so I simply had to stop using them to avoid injury. And if I downsized (I've got my street shoe size) I'd had even more pain during the first several sessions. So the moral of the story is to look for a knit toebox version if you consider Black Diamond Momentum. But of course, everything is personal, and someone might not share my view on the cloth toebox version. I advanced a bit, so I switched to a more performance oriented shoes since then, but I've also purchased a pair of discounted 5.10 Niads (I think I've got them for about 50 euros), and despite not positioned as beginner shoes, I think they the description perfectly, if you can get them discounted. They are neutral, they are quite comfortable to wear for hours if you go comfort-fit size (like street shoe size or +1). They have nice and soft inside material, and despite being quite stiff, they work on volumes very well because of good quality of 5.10 stealth rubber
Love the rundown! I’ve never heard of the cloth model of momentum’s. I also have tested a pair of Aspects (non-knit) upper, but those are a different shoe. Do you know where I can find the shoes you are talking about?
Hope you liked my review! I will update the review based on durability after I use the shoes more!
Thanks, Nate! We appreciate your feedback. Keep the great content coming!
Of course! Happy to!
Good insight for my friends that are new to climbing and debating shoes. I started outdoors before the gym and also found the tarantulace great for outdoors (particularly slab in CCC) but definitely hurting my feet more indoors. Of course temperature in the gym may also cause some additional swelling too. Overall sick review!
I know right!! I was surprised at the difference indoor and outdoor with those
Super insightful! Loved seeing how each one performed both indoor/outdoor and I'll definitely keep this in mind for my next pair of shoes.
Thanks klkobasick :)
Thank you for this review. It comes at a perfect time.
Glad to hear it!
Did the stiffness and upper materials have an impact on how long you could wear them? Thinking of a 30 minute project sesh vs putting them on and off between bouldering problems
Honestly not really. I had no problems wearing all of the shoes for 30 minutes, but Id want to take the shoes off probably every 30 minutes to let my feet air out a bit
Had me crackin' up with the jokes! Keep it comin
Gotta throw in some jokes!
Great content bro 😎
Thank you!
This review is killer, I hope it pops off I'd love to see this content done to death, I had this idea myself
Thank you so much!
There are two versions of Black Diamond Momentum: the one you had with a knit toebox, and the one with full cloth toebox. I didn't realise that before purchasing the latter version myself, and it is actually the opposite of everything you've mentioned as advantages of the model. It is quite uncomfortable for a beginner shoe, because the cloth is quite stiff (my toes actually bled a lot till I broke them in), it does not breath at all (even something like la sportiva solution comp breathes much better), and I think they are just built poorly for the full price (about 100 euros here). They are now discounted in our region to about 70 euroes, and it makes a bit more sense.
In the end they've become very comfortable and I could walk in them for hours with no issues. However, once they've stretched a bit, my big toes stopped being curled in some cases, so I simply had to stop using them to avoid injury. And if I downsized (I've got my street shoe size) I'd had even more pain during the first several sessions.
So the moral of the story is to look for a knit toebox version if you consider Black Diamond Momentum. But of course, everything is personal, and someone might not share my view on the cloth toebox version.
I advanced a bit, so I switched to a more performance oriented shoes since then, but I've also purchased a pair of discounted 5.10 Niads (I think I've got them for about 50 euros), and despite not positioned as beginner shoes, I think they the description perfectly, if you can get them discounted. They are neutral, they are quite comfortable to wear for hours if you go comfort-fit size (like street shoe size or +1). They have nice and soft inside material, and despite being quite stiff, they work on volumes very well because of good quality of 5.10 stealth rubber
Love the rundown! I’ve never heard of the cloth model of momentum’s. I also have tested a pair of Aspects (non-knit) upper, but those are a different shoe. Do you know where I can find the shoes you are talking about?