CNC Machined Threaded Rod Ends
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- I took the opportunity to for some more basic cnc lathe training when the welding shop needed an 1-1/4" rod threaded on both ends. Using my Milltronics ML16II and it's conversational programming, I made some practice cuts to get the feel for it, making some adjustments on my tool offsets, then went on to machine my first real workpiece in the new cnc lathe. Baby steps I know, but every time I'm on the machine I'm one step closer to understand how to operate it better.
#milltronics #cnc #cnclathe #abom79 #learningcnc
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The good thing about CNC is it does exactly what you tell it, the bad thing about CNC is, it does exactly what you tell it 😂
I got myself an entry level cnc router for xmas ... and Oh My Lord!!! You are 100% correct ... reminds me of computer programming back in the 80's .. we swore by GIGO ..garbage in, garbage out.
True
Exactly 🤣
With cnc you don’t really need a thread relief, but you can also dwell the thread tool at the end of the cut.
A tip we use in our machine shop, after you run your threads come back with your OD turning tool for a skim over the top of the threads then run the last pass of the threading tool again. Leaves amazing threads with no need to file by hand.
Nice tip thanks
Came here to to say this, and to use a smaller radius tool and profile the radius. The CNC doesn't need to plunge cut with the right radius to get the final shape.
Adam, a little tip for you on repeating stick outs: call up tool 1 and bring it into something like X4Z0 and hand jog into X0 with the stock back in the chuck jaws. Pull the stock out until it touches the tool. It acts like a stop and your stickouts will all be within a few thou if you're repeating ops like this.
Just a bit of advice Adam. When your adjusting your sizes you should be adding or subtracting using the X Wear and Z Wear offset box for the tools not adjusting the X Length and Z Length which you get using the tool probe. You might also need to ask miltronics if your tool table is set to adjust diameter or radius because I have a feeling when you adjusted your size you actually doubled it which is why your size came out double what you expected which tells me you need to adjust only for the radius not diameter.
Hi Adam,
please use the wear fields in the tool offset table for the tool correction offsets. When you change the tool length youre in grave danger of crashing your machine if you mistype. Thats what the wear fields are for.
Best,
Martin
I really like the use of the pig mat on your table to protect the surface and keep 'stuff' from rolling or skittering off a flat surface.
Stay curious Adam 👍🏻. In about two hours it will be 2023 here in the Netherlands. And then, Happy New Year! 🎉
To get rid of the burrs on the thread, either run topping inserts which automatically crest the very top of the thread, or take a spring/very very lite finishing pass over the thread OD. Great work, keep it up!
At first I was a bit worried that a superb precision machinist channel might be ruined by the introduction of CNC. But I was completely wrong: This promises to be a fascinating journey where a superb machinist learns to teach a machine to do work to HIS standards - it's clearly not just 'plug and play' as I'd assumed!
On your tool comp on the threading tool, you should've only changed it by 0.0005" instead of 0.001". You take 0.0005" on each side which gives you the full 0.001". Nice work!
It depends if the tool table is in radius or diameter.
@@LesNewell Based on his result (a diff of 0.002") I'd say his table is in radius. But yeah, you are correct.
For a better chuck key check out what Peter uses at Edge Precision. It's a ratchet where the handle can extend and a short adapter to suit the chuck. As soon as I saw that I had to get one, and now use it all the time, for lots of things.
Peter is the highest level cnc mahcinst ive ever seen.
That’s a remarkable machine. Don’t get frustrated. You are learning.
I program with solidcam for the last 10 years, I program in metric, but I always leave 0.1mm in my roughing program, then come back with a finish pass so it's very light on the cut and eliminates all chatter with the tooling, machine and stock. Always always always run a finish pass for a quality finish and to size more consistently 👌 love watching you grow with cnc. Old school subscriber.
Great video as always. You inspired me to get my own machines. Not much, but a little Clausing 8520 and a 14x42 Logan have given me hours of entertainment. I’d venture to say that I’ve been able to run them from what I’ve learned from you. I thank you.
Can I just say how happy it made me to see the precision that even the pig mat was placed on the table in the beginning. I am sure it makes many of us very happy to see it not out of square with the table. Thanks Adam!
@jkworth7381 funny thing that was the first thing I noticed too. OCD
Adam you’ll want to add or subtract in the “wear” tab not the offset # your wear tab will be either radial or diameter. Add positive value at first then subtract your way to size.
You are brave to show what it takes to learn new technology and I hope it inspires more to learn this too.
I really enjoy your videos and I wish you continued success.
I can’t believe you actually used the CNC again. I am so impressed.
I have no suggestions or criticisms, but just plain awe at your courage to learn CNC work. Looking through the comments here you may be able to learn from some and get a smile from others. Thanks much for sharing your experience with us.
Expanding your skill set. That's the mark of a smart man; always eager to learn more.
Happy New Year. Love your videos and have learned a lot from you. On the fuzzys after threading: I was taught that after the threading, do another finish OD pass with your turning tool and then a final spring pass with the threading tool. This takes the burrs off the OD and the final threading spring pass takes the ones off that the OD tool folded in.
He's fully aware of that in manual machining, he was saying he needs to learn how to program that into the CNC program, or learn how to do a manual cleanup pass after the program runs.
@kinda blue
I was suggesting that he put them in his program , not do them manually.
You can top the threads leave like .003 or less usually 1-3 thou radially on before you finish the threads then take your dia right to size then run the threader once for your final pass. For the chatter I would start with reducing your spindle speed for the threads and with the groove like you said use a smaller one and take multiple cuts.
It’s the way to learn, even one off jobs give an opportunity to learn… glad you are getting into cnc.
I went back and rewatched the video to see if I missed something. He said he was going to figure out how to program the job using "conversational". Next, he has the metal rod in the machine, but no programming. Later we see a screen with numbers already filled in for a program file "Shaft Threaded End" with no explanation as to how he got there. There is chattering which could be reduced or eliminated with maybe more and lighter passes. It would have been enlightening to follow through with that thought. But changes are made off-camera. He only displays knowledge of how to use a micrometer to verify the threads. It's OK to say I don't know, but I think a lot of us are assuming a lot of calls were made to support while the camera was off. I would respect him more if he bought 2 or 3 $1000 machines to learn on, then stepped up his equipment as his skills increased. Everyone can relate to that. I really didn't learn anything from this video. The question everyone is asking themselves is how is this new shop going to make money beyond hats and T-shirts. As the king of Siam said " In my head are many facts
Of which I wish I was more certain, I was sure,
Is a puzzlement"!
I usually re-cut the theead major diameter and take another spring pass on the threads to remove the burrs on threaded parts. Easy peasy on CNC machines.
Great work Adam. We always had, a spindle stop and program pause, to measure the diameter and input offsets, before final diameter is machined.
I could watch you make art all day mate. The cnc form of it is just as satisfying as the manual version. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride man.
I admire your courage in switching to CNC. I do think that you have to spend several hours a day to learn it properly. Bless you.
There isn’t a wear offset on the tools? Those little burrs on the OD finish could be improved by doing two things. Use a different tool for your finish cut at a higher surface footage or speed. I’m not sure but by the sound of the video. Are you running in constant surface speed on your turning cuts? Or maybe you have limited the speed in the program. Typically to make a thread relief I use a 35 degree diamond turning tool. I turn down a 45 degree angle into the relief into the relief. Rough the relief and then do your finish OD cut with that tool with the thread relief all in that finish cut.
THIS THIS THIS ^^^^^ - Peter, wouldn't you like to visit Pensacola??? Mr CNC meets Mr Manual. A Epic Video for us all.
Getting his cutting forces pushing down, instead of pulling up will help as well. Especially in that little machine. It will help his diameter control immensely. And, no offense intended, but he's trying to run it like a manual. Lighter D.O.C, lighter semi-finish and finish passes, even with the same tool, will do wonders.
@@tedsaylor6016 Ted I just saw this comment. I wouldn’t mind it but I don’t know when it could be. All my spare time for trips going to Mexico for my building project. I did once meet Adam at the first Good of the land meet up here in Texas. I think for being totally new to CNC Adam is doing real well. That manual experience is really a big help.
Thanks Adam! Learning curves aren't easy, but they're all needed and progress speed don't matter - just progress at your pace dude.
Very cool! I’d love to see more of the programming side of things, like how you configure the individual steps, what params you have to set and how it looks on the UI.
Happy New year Adam from the UK
Poetry in motion. Guessing you were impressed with the speed and effortless machining. Happy New Year!
i love hearing the spindle changing speeds mid cut to keep the inches per min the same. so cool.
Nice to see you using this machine, The nice thing about CNC lathes is you don't need to use those types of radius tools like you would on a manual lathe. You can program a DNMG type insert to go in there and put what ever shape you want. I'm not criticizing, just reminding you. I'm not very good yet at programming from scratch yet. I run and edit alot of programs on CNC lathes at my day job. Love it. We usually rough everything with CNMG on tool #2 then finish with DNMG tool #1. Pretty cool how you can program those radius in with a normal cutting tool or even use radius tools moving in the program, not just straight in. Thanks for the video, I love these CNC videos.
You are learning fast. If I may, a few tips. With a long bar, use a sleeve inside the spindle tube so the bar can't whip around. That long bar will amplify any chatter in the cut. For cutting steel, use a different tool to finish because the roughing tool will wear and need constant adjustment if it's also finishing. After threading, make another finish cut to remove burrs. Then do another threading cut to remove the burr left by the second finish pass. If there is no ring gage, use a nut to check the threads all the way to the relief. The threading should be programmed right up to the far end of the relief--it won't hit the wall.
I ran a Bridgeport mill with Hurco CNC control back in 76 and 77. I had my supervisor there with me to teach me how to work it, but I couldn’t imagine trying to do it by myself.
I’m sure this time next year you’ll be proficient at CNC programming and will use them for most of your work
Sooo nice to see you starting to learn this machine.
I can see already now that your skills to try this out with curiosity, trying and see the result, is already reaping success.
Looking forward to see a mix of manual and CNC material on you channel. :-)
Keep on rollin' Adam. I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos.
Sometimes, taking notes doesn't hurt, and lots of practice will do. You're doing a great job on the cnc.
Liking the CNC stuff but still love watching you do things manually. Keep up the content.
Hey abom, as I'm native on a CNC lathe (learned manual lathing after CNC) it's fascinating to see your progress, you can tell that you have the knowledge of the basics pretty dialed in :) For your threading operations you should consider full profile inserts instead of the partial, much cleaner results. My goto insert would be a DNMG instead of the CNMG on this size of machine and kinda rough stuff. With a DNMG you dont need the grooving operation. And i dont know your control, but there should be a table for wear correction, normally you do your tool corrections in this table and not in the tool data itself.
My son, for a short time, was working for a CNC shop as a temp. He still had to manually deburr every part as it came out of the machine. Maybe the burrs are typical and you'll always need to file them.
The advantage and speed of the CNC is incredible, in the time of going to look for a clock to time the time in which the work is completed and boom, in the blink of an eye the work is finished !! How fast !!
regards
Those CMC$ will be a godsend when you need to batch out a lot of identical parts. That will let you work on other projects while the mind numbing process of making the same small part over and over and over it’s done by the CNC. Awesome
Huge respect , congrats on your machines. As soon as you are comfortable , I’d advise you to get a used Japanese cnc lathe ( hydraulic chucker) . Old mori , Okuma , etc. chatter issues and repeatability is great, even on 20 year old machines .
I started doing what you do, so I know the learning curve.
Adam, talk to Milltronics about how their lathes are setup. When you change a tool geometry offset by 0.001" that will likely be a radial change. Some controls have options for making the wear offsets radial or diametric. I've got my lathes set up in diametric but your one thou change may have moved two thou just because it is a diametric change, not a radial change.
Agree. The ML22 I use at work is setup for radial adjustment in the offsets but I'm thinking it can be changed to diametric as well.
He had a Milltronics guy there for training on the machine. Wear offsets are as basic as it comes and surely would have been part of that 'training'.
@@richardjones7249 Adam is drinking from a firehose right now and this is a simple thing to miss or forget during (or since) training. I have been running my specific machines here for a few years and still constantly have questions for the applications guys. I'm just trying to help him the best I can because he taught me how to run a lathe for free on the internet and now I am actually in a position to potentially give back.
Braving the unknown can be a bear to overcome but it is the best part of being new to something. These small victories are great motivators.
First, calm down on the cut depths and feeds in your program. That machine isn’t rigid enough for what you’re programming.
Second, for the threading cycle. ALWAYS run your offset above finish diameter. Start with +0.015” and check it. Then run the cycle again at half that offset and check again. Then incrementally move the offset the amount left to hit your target for a last pass.
Never just trust the machine to hit the diameters right on all the time. Always run your offsets (wear comp) above your targets.
Also you had zero coolant while cutting. The material is obviously going to tear up while threading.
Happy new year Abom! So much good content this year, looking forward to what Abby and yourself get into for 2023.
Adam, consider this for thread relief now that you are on a cnc.
I noticed you have a vnmg holder, 35* OD tool. The beauty of that tool is you can produce a 45* backside chamfer. Use that tool to create the back thread relief down to about 0.01 past the minor diameter.
Hi Adam, Happy New Year to you and your family. Best wishes in 2023. Thanks for sharing your videos. Take care
Dont make your offset changes in the geometry number, you'll just lose track of what you've done and not have a good reference point for when you change an insert. Make those changes in the wear value by putting .001 in the X wear, that way you have an easy way to tell what you have changed and by how much.
I would love to see a video on how you programmed the lathe to do that operation. It might be boring for some, but I think a few people would be interested in learning what you have to do to make a part like you just made.
Thanks for all the great videos and advice. Keep up the great work.
I wish you and your family and friends a Happy New Year.
keep on learning adam you're doin great
Great job, I noticed your screwcutting tool was still taking a big cut on last pass, you need a spring pass, a CNC machine like this with an insert like that will make mirror finish threads with no burrs.
Wao
The machinist turn to be a programmer.
Them machine it’s fast .
Those are good to repeat jobs .
I still love the manual lathe .
No computer .
Topping inserts are the only way to not have burrs unless you do a finish turning pass after the threading. You can run the finish pass backwards and it will debur the thread on the chamfer.
Hi, I have noticed that 250rmp makes less tool deflection and have more control on it. Full profile insert on threads is my recommendation for better results without filing afterwards 💪 I have in siemens control and there is cycle for thread relief, easy to make with vnmg tool👌 Keep on training and there it comes that same confidence that you have with manual machines💫
I am glad you said the radius cut isnt needed.
Glad you can keep learning. Never stop learning new things. Happy New Year!
Nice little project! I would have loved seeing you do the actual programming, the tool setup, ...
Just to see how that works, what thoughts you go through, and so on. And for you it would be a beneficial repetition to memorize all that even better and also get a better overview how to navigate the software.
Happy New Year!
Top Tip. There is movement between the bar stock and the chuck jaws "because of the rust on the bar stock" Two minutes with an angle grinder with wire brush. It doesn't do your precision ground chuck jaws any good at all.
Nice job!
It’s been a long time since I’ve watched your vids. You have come a long way from your first vids so long ago lol!
It’s making how technology can make our lives so much easier and productivity can improve like this.
Nice job getting the concrete machine. It is definitely the way!
I'd say maybe the cuts are a bit aggressive for the set up? And yes as some others have mentioned, a spring pass can be added in to de-bur the thread. But that is the learning process and I think you are smashing it with the cnc learning curve so keep pushing 🤛
Doing very nice Mr Adam. Whooshing you and yours a wonderful New Year and great adventures coming with your new shop. I’m enjoying and looking to see each and every video.
Must be really fun getting better with this new semi-miraculous technology.
Using a modified flank infeed method when threading on a CNC gives incredable results.
first line of G76Pxxyyzz, the XX is how many spring passes, the ZZ is your infeed angle.
Putting a 29 there will make it act like the compound on your manual lathe (For 60 degree threads).
I run G76 P030029 for all my threads.
Using both sides of the threader puts out a ton of pressure giving you deflection and chatter.
Modified flank infeed only uses the back side.
Life is a learning experience everyday
Great video 👍 As John Saunders and John grissmo have said a CNC machine need's a warm up cycle and temperature control to help keep tight tolerances.
Looking at the CNC Lathe cut is like looking at pure magic. Happy New Year, Adam!
Interesting thread measurement tool, I don’t remember them or they were not though of when I was a young apprentice. First time I’ve seen them. I learned on the old 3 wire and still have them 25 years later.
take lighter cuts for the finish passes with the threading tool, take more cuts, add coolant, the took rub will cause chatter. i just went through this with my lathe. with grooving tool, use a z back and forth walk in, so oscillating the z on the way in. all lessons my lathe has taught me
Best wishes for 2023
Getting good at the programming Adam. Nice job brother.
Happy New Year and thanks for the video.
You only need two tools for the job you showed in the video.
T1 Planing ,linear turning and thread release
T2 Threading
Lots of good insights in the comments here. Since I know nothing this helps me learn too. 🙂
You saying "you know nothing" is kinda hillarious :D
@@StefanGotteswinter Well I didn't specify but I meant about CNC machine operations. lol Otherwise I do know a lot about a little and a little about a lot. 🙂
You did great dude, well done for nailing it. Enjoy the journey ✌️
The perfect start in a new year. 1.30 am on my location.
Happy New Year to everyone.
I’m surprised you don’t have thread mics .
Learning G-code can seem like an impossible feat after machining manually for years but you’re getting there brother . Keep up the great work!
Its a cnc, so there is no need for a chattering grooving-tool at this point, just turn the undercut with your dnmg-insert (-30°). Happy new year!
It's not necessary for an u/c on that job.
@@4418CARLOU I dont know, if its needed here, depends on the function and the other part. The final workpiece has a shoulder and without an uc u dont have a full thread at the end.
u/c = undercut.
@@4418CARLOU Yea, figured it out in the meantime, but thx. Thats why i edited my last commentary... but it seems u readed it before. Sry.
At around 2:54 make note of what diameter is on the display. 3:01 pause program-measure-make that adjustment here then rest should be gnats ass without the scrap. Gimme more Milltronics content!!!
Very nice work. I know you are running dry to show the work.
Kind of think threads would be sweet with cutting fluid. You are a master on the manual part so you can and will master the CNC stuff too.
Take lighter cuts, take more spring passes, and use coolant.
And have a Happy New Year!
You may want to try a G76 multi pass threading cycle using your CAM software. It basically cuts one side of the thread at a time, alternating each pass. It doesn’t load the insert as much and you’ll probably have less deflection.
Instead of filing the threads, you should have it make a skim pass for the od afterward. Seeing a rusty bar in a cnc lathe is a rare sight.
From an empty chuck to finished thread was 2 minutes, not counting measuring, de-burring and removal. The final threading operation before tool change was also 2 minutes but it included measurement. Amazing.
Wow! Those threads happen fast.
You're the 2nd person from RUclips to ask me to text them on telegram for a prize.
@17:38 Use a full profile Insert , that insert will Top off the threads Major Dimension too , you won't have burr, Or if I don't have one generally I make a finish pass followed by a thread repass not efficient but I get clean threads , the Tooling representative will surely have a solution too
Hi ! I wish you an happy new year to you and your family. It will nice to have a video to explain how you install and adjust the position of the different tools. Best regards from France.
Adam how warm is the part getting after all the cuts not running coolant? That maybe a factor in your thread measurements. When CNC cutting because the work is so fast it generates heat instantly with no cool downs between cuts. The reducing cuts may need a 5 minute delay before moving on to the next cut or use your mister for now. The coolant is key when CNC cutting. A good tool to use is a laser temp gauge to get better measurements. Having your coolant set up will make everything your experiencing go away.😉👍Happy New Year & Many Many More!
Glad to see you're learning. Hope you and your gal have a great new year.
10:20 Perhaps do a .010" cleanup cut on the OD of your material before starting to cut threats, to ensure the overall final diameter.? 11:25 aha fine minds think alike you did it.! Happy next year
Your doing great, hang in there man.
I always add a finish od pass on parts that leave a little burr on the threads. it works 95% of the time
Happy New Year, and thanks for all the videos in 2022! ⭐🙂👍
Great stuff Adam. Was thinking the other day that the only way to get good at any skill is to practice, practice, and more practice.
Your thread cutting program is making set depth increases. This take off more and more material with each pass. You end up really hogging out material at the last pass. Some better threading programs will make a constant material removal so as the depth of the tool increases each pass is not as deep and you don't end up with that major hog at the end. If your program doesn't have this feature you need so set the number of passes to a greater number. That way there is less material removal on the last pass. It takes longer, but who cares if it takes 5 seconds or 10?
You could also speed up the spindle speed. You want to try to get into that sfm zone for carbide even while threading. It don't come naturally to some one who is used to engaging the lead screw but as long as your not going to be traversing over your max feed rate pump up the rpm to get into the sfm of the material.
Amazing all the CNC experts on here who must have been born with the CNC knowledge. Surely they didn’t learn it over time and trial/error. Suggestions are one thing, but to say crap like “why didn’t you do this, why didn’t you do that” serves no purpose. He simply may not have known. It’s a new skill and he’s in the learning stage.
If simple questions hurt your feelings, in a RUclips comments section with no connection to you, wow, life will be difficult for you. You can't control people's behavior, especially on the internet. Grow up.
How is he going to get better if no one with experience gives tips on how it should be?
I myself have been in machining school about 6years in batches and worked as a CNC lathe operator for about 10years.
Was waiting for this type of comment, and it finally arrives. It appears that some people cannot bear that others know more about CNC than Adam, so they come out with the derogatory 'expert' term. Though missing the 'armchair' bit, because they know that there are thousands doing their shift in the CNC world, day in day out. It would be real fun in the comments section if Adam decided to to a maths degree, and took us along with him; after all, nobody knows more about maths than Adam, lol.
You must be new to the internet
It is better to learn from other people's mistakes rather than redo them over again. That's the point of teachers. It makes it a lot harder to figure out what is going wrong if no one else makes suggestions based on their own experience of similar problems.