Bronze Acme Nut Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2022
- We continue the machining on the new bronze acme nut for the new lead screw. In this video we'll be turning the round journal in the PM lathe, showing some 4 jaw chuck indicating in the process. We'll then move over to the KBC mill to machine the radius on the opposite end using a corner rounding end mill. We'll have one final video to finish out the machining on these bronze acme nuts.
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Making a duplicate part in case of a mistake increases the chances of the first one turning out perfect by 200%.
Of all of your fans, that one in the corner must be the biggest.
A trick I learned from an old guy, was to put a piece of wet paper on the surface, (with knowned thickess ofcourse). When the tool snugged it away, I know were I was on the DRO. About 0.1mm here in Sweden. Love Your videos. There's a whole bunch of guys here in Sweden that watch Your channel. Thanks man, keep it up.👍👍👍👍
Adam did just that in a recent video upload. Someone commented that Tally-Ho/Raw ciggie papers are perfect for this.
Being the machine repair kind of guy I am, I would put that extra ACME nut in a sealed plastic bag and keep it in the bottom of the control panel. Whoever ends up owning that machine in 30 to 50 years when it needs to be replaced again may appreciate it. :)
I learned many tricks in this one video, I was not aware of taking shoulder height with the caliper like you did, it is better than what I was doing.
This series made me tackle redoing my crossfeed screw and nut. Your clips gave me some great ideas and my screw and nut turned out great. Thanks for the help!
I learn so many techniques from watching your videos. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
They both look great! Thanks for bringing us along, Adam.
Nice to hear you say let’s have some fun , you still enjoy what you’re doing it’s not a chore .
That new lathe sure is quiet. Very nice job on those pieces.
Adam, you should seriously consider doing this for a living, your really good at it.
He does
@@joshclark44 He did. Now he makes youtube videos for a living. He's pretty good at that too. He only takes on side jobs if they're interesting for a video... or if old acquaintances make puppy eyes and ask really nicely.
Hi Adam,
In turning the second one, when you had the slow motion it reminded me of the sound of old steam trains which I travelled on for many years.
That Matthew's lathe runs very smoothly.
The part looks fantastic.
Cheers Dennis.
You are like a tv show, we cant wait for the next episode!!!
I live vicariously through Adam both. I used to be a machinist in the early 80's through the late 90's using manual and cnc machines before the terrible Oregon legislation decided to outlaw all heavy manufacturing in the State. I'm very impressed with the Precision Matthews machines. Keep up with the good work. Adam. I really enjoy our videos. I've been watching them from the start of your channel. :)
"before the terrible Oregon legislation decided to outlaw all heavy manufacturing in the State." ?? How?
That mill is whisper quiet, niiice.
Love the sounds of all this new equipment in this presentation
First time I ever seen one of them "giggly-pin" things. Made indicating too easy. Plus i think it put some pep in your step. And it's cool to see a finished product come out so exact and pretty. Yeah!
This is wonderful to see and now I understand the concept of creating one high-precision machine with another. Still remember the sound of that Acme thread tap! Always interesting! Thanks Adam.
Ahhh! The pucker factor!!! If that were me, that part would have slipped, caught corner to corner, and sheared that stem right the hell off! And then I would have not only had to start over, but tram in again.
Except in adams shop it would have made for great content! This guy rarely messes up on a lathe or mill though so Im not holding my breath for a crash video.
That's a beautiful lathe.
The slow motion at at 16:20 was so satisfying, I replayed it more than twenty times!
I love the precision of the set up in the lathe. It feeds my ocd to see others go far beyond what would be good enough. And I love the slow motion!
Adam, thanks for another video. Been watching for years. Good work. Cheers!
Having a spare cross feed nut for you lathe waiting around will guarantee very long service life for the one that is installed.
When I made a cross feed nut for my old lathe, the radii were necessary for clearance to get full travel.
Nice shop you got there.
From this standpoint, excellent work. Thanks Adam.
Those brass shims work good, but to improve them.
Mill in pockets for small coin magnets. Now they stay in place.
Great series Adam.
With cutters like that round over you used the higher the RPM the smoother the cut. If you increase the RPM with increasing your feed rate you are reducing your cut per tooth and the higher speed of the cutter also turns that slap into more of a vibration making it easier on your machine & fixtures.
Parts look great! Love the seeing the new equipment work.
Question: could you set up a second camera to record the DRO while you are turning things, and then put it into into the vid in a PiP style? Dunno how hard it would be to keyframe it into sync, but would look cool :D
I was thinking the same thing..... atleast do a single run showing the DRO
If he is using FCP it is pretty easy to do pip and synch using the sound channel.
A sync trick i used to do when I was in the video biz is start both cameras rolling then take a flash photo near both cameras. There will be a single frame of white on each camera at that moment of the flash. Align the clips in editor and there ya go!
It definitely would look cool!
@@djquick oh man that's slick, I need to remember that if I ever get around to making another video.
Your machines looks new and glowing,
I can't get over how quiet that KBC and the PM lathe both are. Sounds like butter wrapped in velvet.
Great videography! You’re obviously a talented machinist, you’re becoming a filmmaker too. 👍
You have the perfect equipment, all the conditions are nice to look at the excellent work!!
Adam, are my eyes deceiving me, or are the new parts wider than the original. The original has a true rounded top, the new parts have a flat on the top. Thanks for the video. Jon
Very nice work Adam ! ENJOYED..
beautiful pieces. thank for the video 👍
Looks great. Look forward to seeing the rebuild on the AP.
Nice and clean job done. 👌🏻👍🏻
Enjoyed parts 1/2…good discussion/demonstration/build….lots of lessons
yeah, this is gonna sound goofy, but I love watching you use YOUR new tools in YOUR new shop! Way to go, Adam! 👍👍👊👊
Looks great Adam! Hello to Abby and God bless! Take care and stay safe!🙏🎚🇲🇾🇲🇾🇲🇾
Beautiful work, Adam. It will be nice to get the American Pacemaker up and ready for work. Seems like I remember the clutch was a little noisy in neutral, but I'm sure you will address that. Long live the old iron!!
I'm still waiting for Abom79 to make an Acme rocket launcher...I know Wylie has the blueprints!
Wooo that slow mo is cool!!
Good work, from a good machinist..
Excellent work as always.
Adam you do fine work!
You can't fool me, mister. I know a bronze birdhouse when I see one.
I like machining brass/bronze. They produce a nice little chip that’s not springy (unless you’re doing a drilling op.) 😌
Yeo, drilling and especially tapping that stuff is much less fun.
Excellent work very interesting nice one bro
Nice work Adam.
Nice job thanks for sharing
Definitely enjoy watching the turning but for someone like myself who doesn’t know the first thing about machining, for some reason when I see a square piece get turned I always wait for the cutting tool to snap.. Obviously it’s a harder materiel but it gets me every time.. 🙌🏼😂
I'm learning lot, thank you men
Nice work.Thank you.
New shop space is sweet
Great Work Adam, can't wait to see the Pace Maker making chips
Nice job
Great Work 5*
GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO, SEE YOU NEXT TIME...
I remember on my mill training the corner rounding cutters, I, and everyone else too, even the instructor, hated those things, so fiddly, pretty hard tp use, often not fantastic quality but that was a purchasing department issue, takes a lot of skill and experience to get a good finish with one, you don't just cut in and it works.
Muito bom amigo ter a ferramenta certa para o trabalho!!!
Abraço a todos aí!
Is there a reason that the part is wider than the original?
Very nice Adam. I don't have radius cutters so it's the end mill on a radius plate.
another nice job...
learn something new every day
Better watch out, Adam, you might fall in love with these new machines.
THIS is quintessential ABOM.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for sharing!
Machines appear to be doing very well. 🙂
Yeah they get a lot of down time😃
I am not a machinist but been in several shops through the years for work related projects. Isn't it really nice to work in a well-lit, climate-controlled environment? They are rare in my experience.
Good stuff
Loved the video, Bud. I also couldn't help but notice that this tool sounds like a diesel tractor idling lol around 25:19
You're right! Kinda sounds like a 4bt
Thanks for sharing buddy looks like you did a wonderful job should be better than original
Thank you Adam
I wish you could hook up with the Slow Mo Guys. I wonder how cool it would be to watch metal peeling off on the lathe!
He has done it before. Watch some of his early videos from 6-8 years ago.
I just noticed you're in your new shop using your new equipment.
Damn fine sir.
what amazed me, not surprised, is the comment " make it look pretty even though it'll never be seen " . is that the mark of an absolute master craftsmen? I reckon it is
Only on video. On production “looking pretty” would be near the bottom of the list as long as the part meets print tolerances.
yes only on vids like this. In production your only after the function if it is a part that never gonna be seen.
That's what I love the most about My Mechanics - all the parts are done to perfection.
From a production shop perspective, "meets tolerances" is the goal, but if you want to continue to improve getting things looking the best they can while meeting tolerances and done in the right time *is* the mark of a craftsman, and not just someone trying to churn stuff out. Sometimes you do sacrifice "looks good" for time, but if you can get those parts looking good while meeting all of the other criteria then that will help you for the next time that "looks good" is part of the criteria.
To paraphrase the Essential Craftsman, it's really about knowing what your allowable tolerances are. Sometimes that's absolute perfection, and other times it's just meeting the budget and functional requirements.
It seems a small logical failure to use soft jaws in the lathe on a surface that will mostly be milled later but then not use soft jaws on a finished surface on the indexer while milling. Maybe knowing the finish wasn't important in either area affected the planning.
I think the problem is with keeping the part centered, so it can be turned 180.
Adding a DRO to the knee and quill would be worth it to guarantee your Z is always correct.
But isn't it too wide? shouldn't the sides have been cut down before radiusing?
Yeah the top is so much wider, I assumed he would have removed some material before putting the radius on.
It would have been nice to see a close up side by side and end to end. I'm not sure it is the angle of the camera creating an illusion or a difference in dimension.
It is wider than the original. Square instead of rectangular. Maybe it doesn't matter but I wouldn't chance it in case the profile is needed for clearance. And it looks nicer too 🙂
Go to the tear down SNS360 you will see there is loads of clearance, he also said at the beginning of the video it aesthetic
Watch the previous video you get your answers there already
Great job Adam...but..isn't the radius... I would have done this 1st...WHO CARES! If it fits and works, then it's ABOM CERTIFIED!
Can't wait to see it together. Beautiful job!
easier to adjust for squaring on the mill with a rotating table if it has a round shank. if he did the radius first, he would have to bump a mill vice tillt he part was square. easier this way
Nice 👍
Cool illusion.. 🙂 @16:03
KBC had a store in St. Louis years ago. I shopped there infrequently since I had access to other suppliers through work. I always thought of KBC as a "B" level supplier dealing mostly with off shore materials of second grade quality. I steered clear of them for that reason. This is the first time that I have seen you operate the KBC mill. I expected the mill to be substandard, but your demonstration today really impressed me. I have no beef with Align power feed or Newall DRO. I introduced our shop to Newall when Accurite went belly up. We used Newall for years and essentially eliminated glass scale and wiper issues, (scale contamination). If KBC branded machine tools justify these accessories, I will rethink my distain for in house brands. This looks like a similar size mill to the old Bridgeport Series II. What taper is the tooling for this machine? Is the tooling held with a conventional knee mill drawbar or does it use a collet system and tooling drawbar nut like CNC? Do you know who is making this machine? When USA machine builders abandoned the manual machine market and CNC took over the industry it seemed to me that quality manual machine options became very limited. We owned a Sharp and an Aliant purchased in 1993 or 1994. I was smugly distainful of these brands, but really grew to appreciate their quality. Eventually service parts were nearly impossible to source. I would happily have either of those machines in my shop to replace my worn Bridgeport.
I would like to see a review of the KBC. Today's video has already impressed me. Would you give a back story on why you chose this machine? Would you rate it against other currently available options? You have enjoyed KBC products for a long time Lyle Peterson likes KBC as well. Do they still print a catalog? Catalogs used come to my desk years ago.
It is a fact that many "brands" can change quality drastically over the years as new management comes in. In this case it seems KBC is choosing better suppliers than in the past. When evaluating a brand look at what they are selling today - not how they were in the past. Adam has obviously done his research in picking equipment to come into the shop.
At a guess, I’d say that machine is a Taiwanese import. A LOT higher quality than mainland Chinese imports.
Regards
Robert
For the odd cutter that wants to chatter like that, you should look at installing a variable frequency driver for you motor. It varies the motor's RPM between a set range so that no harmonic vibrations can start from a standing harmonic wave in the machine. It's easy to install and use. During normal operation, it can be bypassed completely since you are already on 3 phase power.
Put it on the rotary table and use a end mill to make the RAD...that is how you would do it if you never had a RAD cutter as they always chatter.
Or he could just throw it in his new cnc mill and program the radius
@@keithhasafastcar Yes, but as Adam is new to cnc a few goes would be good. In truth that rad is just clearance with the barrel dia being the tied up part. You need a lot of parts to make a cnc pay for it's self. Mind you the vies would go up with a cnc crash...
@@theessexhunter1305 I don't see why it would not be practical to do this in CNC, bareing in mind I have zero experience... Once you can create the shape in CAD the actual milling would be identical to what was done here but with a different cutter. For Adam it might be tough with his lack of experience but it's just half a cylinder laying on it's side?
But why change or attempt to improve it. It turned out beautifully with almost a mirror finish the way he did it. It’s easy to overthink a part
like this.
Almost ready to put the lathe back together.
1:18. Hey Adam, I think that fan would be a bit more effective if you moved it a couple more feet away from the wall. Would make for easier airflow behind it.
Have a off shore mlll/drill with a striped out nut on the x axis. Lead screw was metric 10 tpi x 15/16ish dia. Could not get one anywhere
and could not afford 600.00 to get one made, plus I don't have enough experience to make one.......SO.......I , bought 1" acme rod and 2 nuts welded them end to end, welded on mounting plate to secure nuts, machined each end of the rod, put it all back together and it works perfect with NO backlash, For the amount I use it, it will last me forever, I know steel on steel isn't right, but sometimes you gotta improvise.
nice
How can you be sure that the stem is square to the threaded hole if you chuck from the raw unmachined surfaces?
Did the original part have an oil port on the top for the threads?
Your new shop looks too clean!
Man kann das auch mit weniger Belastung machen indem man die Rundung immer oben und seitlich abwechselnd fräst. Dann bleibt der Eingriff in die Schneide klein.
You didn't reduce the width of the bar before machining the radii .
My thoughts exactly
Most of the time when I regrind a corner rounding tool I gash the teeth. If the tool is burned up I regrind the form on my Hybco formrelief grinding head.
When I grind the form I a
3 degree brake away angle at the top and the bottom.
This makes the makes the tool more forgiving at the tangent point at the top and bottom of the tool .
That angle is so small you never see it . The cutter pounds because of the straight flutes. There is no shearing action as with a
spiral fluted end mill.
I was wondering that and asked in my own comment - do they make spiral fluted corner rounding end mills? It seems like that would cut a lot smoother with a more gradual cut and always having an edge in contact with the part.
Why does the new piece look much wider at the top than the old one? It looks like it needed to be machined down on both sides before the radius was added. Maybe its just the way it looks on camera, but something looks wrong. Is that top dimension not critical?
It's not a critical dimension. I probably would have made it the same size but then I'd have used my CNC to cut the width and corner radii in one operation because I'm lazy.
When the original was shown, didn't it have a groove and oil hole on the top ? Thanks.
Have you tried approaching with the round over bit from both the side and the top? Once you have your zeros back off both directions and approach it moving down and over with each step. I find that results in a lot less chatter, at least for the first several passes.