Your video is the only one I can find that explains which course of shingles to put the boot on top of, and which under. Some say half way, and almost all say nothing - even the pros like This Old House. But you actually cover this important topic: The flashing should go on top of the upper-most course where the top rim of the flashing will be below the top of the shingle it will rest on. THANKS!
Thank you very much is there anything else I can help you with. If so feel free to comment I will see it and also feel free to look me up on Google Drew’s Roofing And Home Repair I think you might find a lot of interesting fax and videos.
Drew, nice of ya to share how to replace a flange. Your work on that pipe will clearly outlast the rest of the roof. Your man shows some skill with nail speed. In the 90s I was raised on the nailgun; I appreciate seeing somebody do it the way my father did.
Thank you Eddie I was raised handling I’ve only been using a gun for about 10 years well I don’t use one anymore but my crew does. When we do any repairs we always handle let me share this video with you or did you see my most recent one. ruclips.net/video/Xx__Rdm0ua0/видео.html
great information here! question, if I find out the shingles above my boot ( cut at radius part) arent or werent " sealed" with sealant should I carefully seal? Im doing inspections on my roof after all this rain and Im grabbing as much info as i can from videos like yours. Thanks.
How would i do this with my modile home tpo roof trying to replace it but dont know how to put the vent for the bathroom or my furnace hole in the tpo only thing i could think of is cut the hole in my osb and put them back and rofing tar under and round the flashing for it
I really enjoy these videos Drew. Got to appreciate a man who takes pride in his work. Such a rare thing these days. I just replaced a boot on my trailer, its not a shingle roof though. I wish I wouldve video'd what I did, just to see what you thought about it, lol. Again, nice lookin work there Drew (and crew)
I have a problem with two jacks so close together it's hard to shingle around them. The boots overlap each other. One is for a gas line and the other is for the electrical for an AC unit that I had taken off the roof since it didn't work anymore. They way it looks right now, I know it's going to leak. I'm reroofing my own house because I can't afford to hire someone to do it for me. I have a little bit of experience but I've come across a couple situation that are a little beyond my level of experience. I'm roofing over an original layer of shingles. I know that's not good but I can't afford to remove the old because I know there's a lot of wood underneath that should be replaced and I'm 60 years old to be doing that kind of work. I did replace one sheet of plywood because there was dip below where the AC Duct is located.
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair Where I'm at in Ohio it's hard to find people to do roof repairs, they always want to talk you into a new roof. It's helpful to see these videos so we can do repairs ourselves. 🙂Thanks!
I use it under the boat that was a poor example of a pipe boot being replaced I’m doing much better on my videos now please keep checking back I’ll do more and I’m sure we do them just alike. I always put black jack underneath the pipe squish it down onto the roof make sure there’s only one or two shingles above that your boot. Always leave the bottom of the boot exposed
This is not always the case, many boots have large flanges in which case you can trim them even with the shingles, or have them extend past the shingle line. However I'm my experience it is best to install the boot the course before you did, and to allow the reveal from the next course to take a rounded shape, and join the sides together, allowing you to place your nails on the nail line, and have a covering from the tar strip along the shingles above the nails.
A lot of people tend to not understand different codes and building standards for different areas of the country. I'm not saying this is code somewhere, but those nails that are exposed get caulked. I bring this up because i watch videos of florida roofers all the time and i see endless comments saying "you arent supposed to tar under everything", not realizing that it is florida code, for hurricane strength storms. Unless you have done roofing in MANY different climates and dealt with MANY codes, please stop commenting. It's so damn annoying
There is no caulking on the market that lasts more than 6 mo. to a year. You never leave exposed nails on the boot flashing. Should only be using roofing mastic to seal and even mastic will dry out within 2 years.
The boot should be applied over the course up to the pipe where the top side of the shingle meets it, not the following course where the reveal is next to the boot. This way, you're next course can also take the rounded tunnel shape, where you mask your nails.. You even make your cuts rounded along the bottom, to have an effect where the shingles on opposite ends meet each other, this allows your nails to always be under the shingles, and still along the tar strip covering them.
Dap clear... and there goes my permit inspection. Plus I dont see any signs of a compression seal (seal underside of boot) I also hate that you placed the nails right on the adhesive strip line. Some people do this, some manufacturers allow or even prefer it, but it weakens the strength of the bond.
To bad he put an extra shingle under the pipe collar . So in my professional opinion it is done incorrectly! But it is North Carolina so I guess that's how it's done there
The boot should be applied on the course before the one he did, so that when you nail your flanges you always have coverage from the course with the reveal over your nail line.
@@lotar2369 Why would you need replace a pipe boot? Probably because a leak right? What else would have been damaged if you had a leak? Probably the sheathing right? It is part of the process, that is why I asked. Most people wouldn't even know their boot was leaking until the damage was so bad it was leaking on the inside, meaning water damage all around the area from the sheathing, and underneath to the sheetrock on the ceiling.
Reread previous comment LOL. yes there's a reason for the leak but they're not showing you how to replace the wood they're showing you have to do a pipe boot it's literally the title
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair I have a Ranger that require dropping the transmission to change the slave cylinder. It would be like me doing a video on replacing it but already having the transmission out and not mentioning anything about it.
Good job. Very common sense and basic, nothing fancy, just good solid work. Thank you! 👍
Glad you liked it!
Your video is the only one I can find that explains which course of shingles to put the boot on top of, and which under. Some say half way, and almost all say nothing - even the pros like This Old House. But you actually cover this important topic: The flashing should go on top of the upper-most course where the top rim of the flashing will be below the top of the shingle it will rest on. THANKS!
Thank you for watching Tony I’m glad I could help and yes most people do not show the proper course
Excellent Video!
I'm putting a link to this in my home inspection reports. Thanks from West Virginia.
Thank you very much is there anything else I can help you with. If so feel free to comment I will see it and also feel free to look me up on Google Drew’s Roofing And Home Repair I think you might find a lot of interesting fax and videos.
Wow those hammer skills
Riggghhht! Haha
How in the world does he not hit his fingers with the hammer pounding the roofing nails? I'm very impressed.
That’s the way we have been nailing for yrs. I have had a few bloody fingers in my day
I thought the same. Quite the hammer skills
Drew, nice of ya to share how to replace a flange. Your work on that pipe will clearly outlast the rest of the roof. Your man shows some skill with nail speed. In the 90s I was raised on the nailgun; I appreciate seeing somebody do it the way my father did.
Thank you Eddie I was raised handling I’ve only been using a gun for about 10 years well I don’t use one anymore but my crew does. When we do any repairs we always handle let me share this video with you or did you see my most recent one. ruclips.net/video/Xx__Rdm0ua0/видео.html
When we do a repair like this we never bring out the nail gun we always handle it back. ruclips.net/video/yLDeWc-t6p0/видео.html
great information here! question, if I find out the shingles above my boot ( cut at radius part) arent or werent " sealed" with sealant should I carefully seal? Im doing inspections on my roof after all this rain and Im grabbing as much info as i can from videos like yours. Thanks.
If you can do it yes.
Rhank you sir thank you your vudeo help me to understand
I’m glad to help.
The way you've explain is perfect for me was really good, thank you again!!!!
Thank you
Thanks I'm about to attempt this on a cooler day index about 104 today.
It’s easier to do when it’s cooler obviously the shingles might be melted together so bad but it’s not that hard I think you can do it
How would i do this with my modile home tpo roof trying to replace it but dont know how to put the vent for the bathroom or my furnace hole in the tpo only thing i could think of is cut the hole in my osb and put them back and rofing tar under and round the flashing for it
Yes, I have a video on how to replace a pipe boot on a mobile home check that video out
ruclips.net/video/_qo-4Jye0sM/видео.html
I really enjoy these videos Drew. Got to appreciate a man who takes pride in his work. Such a rare thing these days. I just replaced a boot on my trailer, its not a shingle roof though. I wish I wouldve video'd what I did, just to see what you thought about it, lol. Again, nice lookin work there Drew (and crew)
+utoobube Thank you so much I have lots of videos even installing pipe boots on mobile homes
I have a problem with two jacks so close together it's hard to shingle around them. The boots overlap each other. One is for a gas line and the other is for the electrical for an AC unit that I had taken off the roof since it didn't work anymore. They way it looks right now, I know it's going to leak. I'm reroofing my own house because I can't afford to hire someone to do it for me. I have a little bit of experience but I've come across a couple situation that are a little beyond my level of experience. I'm roofing over an original layer of shingles. I know that's not good but I can't afford to remove the old because I know there's a lot of wood underneath that should be replaced and I'm 60 years old to be doing that kind of work. I did replace one sheet of plywood because there was dip below where the AC Duct is located.
I can be a real pain in the butt when they put them in vents so close it can still be done properly
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair I made sure to silicone around them as best I could.
Did you replace that rotten wood, or did you just cover it up?
Yes, that is the first thing we did after removing the shingles. I would never put new shingles on rotten plywood ever. I’m not that guy.
? How much would it cost for a job like that?
For replacing a pipe boot probably $125
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair Where I'm at in Ohio it's hard to find people to do roof repairs, they always want to talk you into a new roof. It's helpful to see these videos so we can do repairs ourselves. 🙂Thanks!
we also bull the joints and tie i ns
I work for a roofing company here in Pensacola I always use roofing cement
Chuck Wyatt my home town.
Mobile, same thing, black jack does the trick
I use it under the boat that was a poor example of a pipe boot being replaced I’m doing much better on my videos now please keep checking back I’ll do more and I’m sure we do them just alike. I always put black jack underneath the pipe squish it down onto the roof make sure there’s only one or two shingles above that your boot. Always leave the bottom of the boot exposed
This is not always the case, many boots have large flanges in which case you can trim them even with the shingles, or have them extend past the shingle line. However I'm my experience it is best to install the boot the course before you did, and to allow the reveal from the next course to take a rounded shape, and join the sides together, allowing you to place your nails on the nail line, and have a covering from the tar strip along the shingles above the nails.
A lot of people tend to not understand different codes and building standards for different areas of the country. I'm not saying this is code somewhere, but those nails that are exposed get caulked. I bring this up because i watch videos of florida roofers all the time and i see endless comments saying "you arent supposed to tar under everything", not realizing that it is florida code, for hurricane strength storms. Unless you have done roofing in MANY different climates and dealt with MANY codes, please stop commenting. It's so damn annoying
Top notch work.
Shouldn't install fasteners through sealant strip
It is not half the roofing caulk that lexel is and Geo-Seal is better than both for roof life longevity and UV ray blockage
I prefer tremco caulking
I don’t think I’ve ever heard of that the Lexxel is what they sell here
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair it must be a Canadian brand then, that is what pretty much everyone uses here in Ontario
Yeah in Canada they definitely carry different types of caulking than we do
Thers no need for roofing cement on that ruber boot it eats it whit time
There is no caulking on the market that lasts more than 6 mo. to a year. You never leave exposed nails on the boot flashing. Should only be using roofing mastic to seal and even mastic will dry out within 2 years.
Not true Lexell is great
The boot should be applied over the course up to the pipe where the top side of the shingle meets it, not the following course where the reveal is next to the boot.
This way, you're next course can also take the rounded tunnel shape, where you mask your nails..
You even make your cuts rounded along the bottom, to have an effect where the shingles on opposite ends meet each other, this allows your nails to always be under the shingles, and still along the tar strip covering them.
Dap clear... and there goes my permit inspection. Plus I dont see any signs of a compression seal (seal underside of boot)
I also hate that you placed the nails right on the adhesive strip line. Some people do this, some manufacturers allow or even prefer it, but it weakens the strength of the bond.
That's where the nails go
this is a fail installation. guys like you keep me busy doing repairs atta boy
roofing cement?
+Chuck Wyatt dap clear at lowes works best
Plastic cement. Pookie.
Next time put Ice and water around the boots
Will do
Yep Ice and Water everything every pipe every chimney every valley
I do now that was an old video
6 nails our code also
To bad he put an extra shingle under the pipe collar . So in my professional opinion it is done incorrectly! But it is North Carolina so I guess that's how it's done there
Exactly my friend
Exactly. I try to explain this in one of the comments
The boot should be applied on the course before the one he did, so that when you nail your flanges you always have coverage from the course with the reveal over your nail line.
I think of it like,, reveal,, over nail
way to many nails on flashing!
No. Use roofing cement, not DAP clear. DAP rep even says so. Go ask one!
Why not show any of the sheathing and tar paper replace/repair process, you just skipped over showing us that?
Because it's how to install a pipe boot not how to resheet and felt
@@lotar2369 Why would you need replace a pipe boot? Probably because a leak right? What else would have been damaged if you had a leak? Probably the sheathing right? It is part of the process, that is why I asked. Most people wouldn't even know their boot was leaking until the damage was so bad it was leaking on the inside, meaning water damage all around the area from the sheathing, and underneath to the sheetrock on the ceiling.
Reread previous comment LOL. yes there's a reason for the leak but they're not showing you how to replace the wood they're showing you have to do a pipe boot it's literally the title
Thank you you’re exactly right we did replace the plywood underneath it but the video wasn’t about that
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair I have a Ranger that require dropping the transmission to change the slave cylinder. It would be like me doing a video on replacing it but already having the transmission out and not mentioning anything about it.
The commercial ad for this video is disgusting I don't think the guys are interested in this. I don't know if the commercials stays the same.
I have no control over the commercial and it changes pretty regular
I’ve actually never seen the commercial I don’t think
@@Drewsroofingandhomerepair I know you don't. If I can remember correctly it about womens vaginas. Lol
Wrong 😂
Why
This is totally wrong but ok
Thanks for watching