How to install laminate flooring without room transitions
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- Опубликовано: 10 ноя 2013
- Show you how to install laminate floor to float throughout the whole house with no room transitions or seams. How to lay against instructions as one piece floor covering.
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You know I’m stuck on this right now and you literally solved it for me
Thank you for the video. I do these floor installation and have done this a couple of times. great to know I'm not the only one that follow my own way and discard the installation directions.
Awesome video! I have asked several people about this and tried explaining to them about how didn't want any transitions. Looked at a whole bunch of other videos. This explained everything very simply! Thank you for this video and also not posting any cheesy music to it! Great work and the floor looks awesome!
Happy to have found your helpful video; this is great for what we intend doing! Fingers crossed, our new floor will look as good as this!
Thank you for this! I'm getting ready to lay laminate in my whole first floor and really want to stay clear of transitions... this helped visualize what I'll do!
Very informative....thank you... now i know how this is done😊
Great video, on the first wall to fireplace run is to snap a chalk guide line to correct the "wobble". As to naysayers, if a plank gets damaged and you need to replace a long run, use an oscillating saw to cut then planking at a doorway and then add a transition T to the jamb. I too have a long 50 ft run and I like this idea a lot. Thanks for the tip!
Did a whole home approx 125m2 about two and a half years ago with no transitions and it's looks awesome and no problems.
However that was with a quality laminate, Godfrey Hirst.
I was also careful to leave the laminate in the home for four days previous to laying them so it would acclimate to the intended location.
Variations in temp from 2 to 42 degrees here in Oz.
I was a first timer and actually found this video the morning before I began the job and decided then and there to go with no transitions and I'm very glad I did.
I did undercut all the metal door frames and ensured a min. 10mm expansion gap around all rooms.
Yes I took a punt on the warranty but I was so impressed by the build quality of the Godfrey Hirst laminate that I felt it was worth the risk. I reckon they'll still look as good in another ten years.
REPLY
Great job, looks nice. Thanks for taking the time to share the information.
Great video. Just what I was looking for.
You left out the most important part - how to lay the floor backwards.
Very interesting. I'm running into the exact same scenario with my flooring. Thanks for the info.!!!
Thanks for the video. I was watching one video and the guy did a lot measuring and math. I was totally confused after watching the video. Your explanation seems a lot simpler.
stock right now on my hallwat right in front of the room and was thinging i want no transission it looks awesome but holl the hell im going to go the opisite way all the looking edges are going to break but looking at ur video gave me more confidence to go for it.. nice video and nicemlooking floors.
Very nice job, it looks so much better without door bars
You did a very nice job and I agree laying it backwards its not in the directions of how laminate is suppose to be laid but it works and I have done it on many occasions where I went thru a doorway like into a laundry room
Thank you for the video. Just confirmed what I've been doing
Great video. Very helpful. Thanks.
Thank you for the video. Looks great!
Well done mate good video
Thanks for your video. I had one room half done because I was unsure how I was going to get around the wall and go backwards into another room. I thought I could only go forward so I was about to buy a bunch of T-mouldings to divide the spaces because as you mentioned it is next to impossible to build both rooms forward and meet perfectly after a wall. I attempted to put the laminate together backwards and it worked just as easily as going forward. I will now lay out a row or two across to the second space, and work backwards!
Was thinking exactly the same until I came across this ^
How do you put the laminate backward? I'm still confused about it.
@@MrBtuladharif I understand correctly, the backwards means the plank goes from "middle to the edge" in a room
Took a while but I get what you're saying and this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for the video. Keep in mind, some of the thinner cheaper laminate floors (8 to 11mm) are likely much harder to click backwards, as they're a pain to put together normally to begin with.
TiaGo2k6 Yep, mine was tricky to install backwards for more than a row.
Great video and a Big help for my installation tomorrow.. Thanks....
Thank you! it's exactly the job what i'm going to do
Thanks, I was wondering how to go from room to room without transitions.
Great video bud.
Laminate was " Exotic Series" around $4 per sq ft. From my experience dark flooring looks beautiful, but consider this, that all small nicks and scuffs from falling objects are much more visible.
The house is beautiful
Looks amazing.
Thanks for the info!
This helps as I pan do the same all in downstair flooring. You have a nice floor color and hluse lay out.
Thanks for the help!!
For laminate that looks really good i usually hate how laminate always looks so gappy and low quality unless your doing hardwood of course.great job
I'm currently doing the same thing. The whole house minus 3 bedrooms. What I did was cut a paint stick the exact width of the pieces and marked all walls.
Thank you. I'm in favor of not having a hideous transition piece.
Very valuable video
what kind of floor is it were did you get it?
great vid - thx you !
what is the color of the laminate been used in this house?
Don’t worry about rehearsing what you want to say just make it up live
Thanks for sharing. And by the way where are you originally from?
So are you running the planks underneath the walls on both sides? Or are you cutting along the wall on both sides?
If the floor in one room gets damaged (e.g., due to a water leak), you will likely have to lift up the planks in other rooms too because they are so connected. Transitions decouples floor segments in different rooms and makes them independent.
Or all you need to do is drill four holes in each corner of damaged plank, take a circular saw, adjust blade and cut the board to each hole. rip the single laminate price out and replace with a fresh board where you trim the tongues and put back in place with glue. Simple enough.
Would like to see tips on how you actually installed the interlocks backwards, the groove going into the tongue. That's what I need to know. Mine doesn't go in well backwards.
He briefly described it. Since original instructions tell you to go left to right, downward; you connect the long side first, then slide the it until the short edges budge together.
Going in reverse, you would start on the right, adding planks to the left, going upward. Start by connecting the small edges together and sliding the plank down, until the long sides of the board butt together.
GahBoe Thanks for the reply, I competed it months ago. First off, I was confused as I thought the groove was the tongue because it stuck out farther and was rushing thinking that this was going to present no challenge to me but I had them mixed up. Was rushing like, "yeah, yeah, yeah, this is obviously the tongue side, tongue sticks out and slides into groove" but upon closer embarrassing examination I realized the groove actually protrudes farther than the tongue hahaha. But I'm pretty sure I recall that going backwards proved much more difficult on mine. I recall I was having problems because on mine you can't go groove into the tongue (as opposed to tongue in groove) for more than 1 row without greater difficulty. You had to lift the flooring row already laid, that you were getting the new pieces to slide into to get it to click I think. Way too hard to work backwards for the entire floor. I did a row or two to get around a pony wall but that's it. Also, my laminate pieces are over a foot wide and that sliding technique didn't work for me. I had to build the entire row basically and get it in position, drop it into place and then use a tapping block and hammer to take any tiny 1/32" gap out or whatever when it was flat. Then, after laying a few rows i noticed my vapor barrier wasn't flat enough, floor felt super spongy and could hear crinkling so I ripped it out and bought flatter vapor barrier. When completed I was still disappointed because I could feel the sponginess of the underlay and air between the slab and laminate but after a month it has settled and finally feels very solid. Thought it was going to be like that forever but it settles way down and lays flat after a short time and some traffic. Mine has been in for 3 months and I've been working out on it boxing, kickboxing so twisting and jamming my feet hard down on it and it looks great, seamless and is very functional. No problems afterwards after all that haha. Hope my problematic, embarrassing testimony helps anyone reading!!
How is the floor now that its been installed for a little bit.
My man!
will this work for engineered floors as well ? Has anyone ever tried ?
I am a big DIY guy, but my wife wanted to hire someone to do our house. There were 3 widths of boards in our floor, and he screwed up and didnt follow the directions and we ended up short on the big boards and too many of the medium. So the owner is going to take it back up and do it right. However, I noticed that there were many "spongy" spots, where the boards flex down when you step on them. Some of the joints flex inward on each other, and there are some spots that give off a small creak when stepped on. Im sure the floor needs to be leveled, that these are low spots. Both contractors who came out to bid on the job told me the floor was fine. Did you level your floor, did you or do you have any issues like I have? Thanks.
I have installed laminate 4 times in 4 different buildings over plywood, over concrete boards, and over original 100 year old wood floors. I have never had to level the floors. Yes there were some spots that felt more spongy at first, but after floor was completed and board locked together in place, all felt normal.
I must mention, that in one house the floor was squeaking for 3 years after installation and I did not know what caused it. It was squeaking in different places and it was annoying. It was a manufacturers defect and a flaw in interlocking design. I figured out this only 4 years later on the new project when I ordered same flooring and tried to combine old leftover boards with the new one and they would not lock. There was visible difference in interlocking cuts where older model was missing a groove at both ends. The "cottage collection" was the brand.
Thanks for the reply. This pro that did my install screwed up, then tried to BS me a couple different ways. I asked him 4 times if he had enough of the large boards to complete the pattern all the way to the end. He assured me he did, but the next day when he started back in, he went to the pattern that he was suppose to do. So now there are two patterns on the floor. On the good side, the company owner has agreed to take it all back up and redo it. When they pull the boards up I am going to do a thorough check on the concrete floor for level, dips etc.. I should have done it myself, I am very picky and dont cut corners. I could have done a better job. You did a great job on this floor.
MYnde Jass o
I measured my flooring and noticed the framing builder was right on so I didn't have to back lay. It's not impossible
Unless you change directions in the next room. Then you need transitions
I notice you are not responding to the kind of flooring and the colour? Would like to know. Armstrong? Mannington?
You can do it the way you said you can't. Very easily just takes a bit of know how and a tape measure.
why not start in the lounge and work left to right? thats what ive done
why didn't you start from the corner. of the longest wall?
Your explanation make you sound like your mother is making you give an apology after stealing candy from the store.
thanks, transitions are horrid... lazy installers! I've had flooring installed well without transitions before and lived in it for 4 years no buckling... I also just purchased a home that has laminate flooring without transitions and it's been in for 14 years and no buckling. I'm now looking to purchase new flooring and I DO NO want transitions. I guess it's just how someone installs it ... properly or not.
Buckling usually has to do with not enough space between the wall and the floorboards.
14th September 2011
there's a reason for the transition between rooms. its not cause you have to start from left and go right. its used for expansion and if your floor happens to shift after the install it allows the floor to move without putting a bind on other areas causing joints to disengage and floor to buckle. cant tell you how many floors i've been sent on to repair where the installer didn't put the transition.
...then again, the risk is worth taking, a house with non-transitioning flooring is something extra.
as a diy person the risk may be worth it to a point but as a professional installing for over 25 yrs. its never worth it cause you will have to go back and do repairs and my time is money. and yes i have gone back behind many other installers and separated rooms installed transitions and fixed all the joints that separated and they have never had any issues since. so if someone installs without transitions your doing it at a risk
+Luke Burket you are correct but actually I can come in and change a board anywhere in a floor without pulling the floor. Just one of the things you learn with 25 years of experience
@@jstrahan73 You should do a video on that! 😀
Absolutely correct
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
This looks nice but as others have said you just voided your warranty. The manufacturers recommend transitions between rooms using T or L moldings for a reason. Rooms in a house can expand and contract at different rates especially at doorways. This can easily cause you to have gaps open up in the future. Best to use a low profile T molding and keep each room seperate.
Aren't you required to put transitions in to handle the expansion? Different rooms will expand at different amounts (because of size differences) and you will get buckling/gaps?
Working for a huge flooring company it is glad to see that someone else realized that you have to break up a floating floor every 25 to 30 feet to allow expansion and contraction.
It depends on the instructions of the flooring. I have laminate that specifically states you must install transitions to accommodate expansion if the room exceeds 40 ft lengthwise. My installation was 36 ft, so no transitions required. However for price of mind I made my expansion zone 1/2 inch instead of the common quarter inch.
Well I installed with no transitions between rooms over a year ago and no problems so far. Took care to lay down moisture barrier properly and proper gaps on edges. In a desert climate so mostly dry but largish temperature variation(40°-100°) inside since we are not always there. I imagine humidity is the real killer which isn't a problem in the dessert
Did a whole home approx 125m2 about two and a half years ago with no transitions and it's looks awesome and no problems. However that was with a quality laminate, Godfrey Hirst. Variations in temp from 2 to 42 degrees here in Oz. I was a first timer and actually found this video the morning before I began the job and decided then and there to go with no transitions and I'm very glad I did. I did undercut all the metal door frames and ensured a min. 10mm expansion gap around all rooms.
Spit it out, already!
The tricky part of the install is going backwards. But... I... the... video... ... ... not helpful... lol.
Why not just measure and trim
Terrible job staggering your planks tons of H seams !
This is total b.s. yes it can be done but when it fails nobody will warranty it. If one room expands or shrinks more than than the other it pulls itself apart in the pinch points. Love to see what it looks like now. Been installing this for years and have even had to take classes. The first thing they tell you is NOT to connect rooms like that even tho yes it can be done.
I have done several homes this way, the first project is already 6 years old and still looks good, no problems at all. I also have used several different brands and they had no problems at all. Just an update.
Do it at your own risk. Wish you all the best in your DIY projects.
You have no idea what you're talking about just stop
Absolute crap