PIV Positive Input Ventilation Owner Review - two weeks after installation - Vent Axia Pure Air
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- Опубликовано: 19 окт 2022
- Installing a heat recovery unit was always my preference, but due to our house being old, installing the pipes to go around our property would have been extremely difficult. After consulting a couple of specialists, they both highly recommended a Positive Input Ventilation System (PIV).
I installed ours two weeks ago and wanted to share the results so far with you.
Here is the link to our version...
amzn.to/3gpHTEI
A more recent video covering our 3 month full review is now available here - ruclips.net/video/xpVSiyIClLI/видео.html
We built a positive air system with preheated options for winter, it has some tremendous pluses for health, but you can have issues with cold air in winter, running costs, damper air too in wet weather & in high pressure periods particularly, you can be pulling in your own or neighbour's gas or smoke fumes without a very superior filter system & remote source point. We have full spectrum filtration & it's located on a clean wall with all gas flues on the other side of the buildings, but as with any filtration, it's limited to capacity, location issues & ultimately so many ppms. you can tell when it's falling short (in high pressure periods) , but it's a lot better than not having it at all.
Just a thought on your installation...
On the video when you bring the camera out below the loft hatch, you can see a rectangle whole in the corner of the ceiling.
It has loft insulation poking through.
It maybe a case that they air being blown into that space from the loft is escaping into the loft via the sizeable whole only feet away.
If this is happening then that will privet positive air pressure within your living space.
Essentially, it would cancel out any benefits of having it's switched on.
The whole volume space has to first be pressurised above the outside air pressure before any internal air is forced to out of tiny gaps.
There's a very strong chance that the tiny amount of pressure coming down from the loft space is simply lost through back into your drafty loft via nearby whole in the ceiling corner.
Just a thought 🤔
Thanks for this video - I found it helpful. I'll be looking into a heat recovery unit.
Excellent straightforward vid. Im not convinced and probably would go to trouble of MVHR system- part old/part new house.
My experience with this model has been positive. When we moved into our 60s bungalow just about all the windows were covered in condensation every morning, opening windows is fine if it's not winter. Anyway after lots of research we bought and fitted the none heater version. Within 3 days we had no condensation at all. Ow and our vent cover fits without being loose.
It's been in and running now for 12 months and works great. This winter I have noticed that it's blowing in cold air so I'm going to fit a heater unit to it (mine can be retrofited).
The none heated version only uses 15 watts per hour.
An update to this, while looking into the heater unit. I decided to check the settings on the PIV. When I installed it I didn't change anything. I discovered it was on a setting for a 5 bedroom property I have now changed it down to a 2 bedroom setting (I only have 2 bedrooms) and now I hardly feel any cold air it's no more than a draft on a badly fitted door. And after 5 days I'm still without condensation. I'm no longer going to buy the heater.
Just out of curiosity as I’m thinking of installing a PIV into our 60’s bungalow, have you vented your loft with soffit vents and/or roof vents. Our loft is soaked with condensation at the mo so going to wait until the spring to totally re-insulate the loft.
@Stephen Hawe hi Stephen. If your loft is soaking with condensation, you'll definitely need soffit vents or tile or slate vents. You need to ventilate your attic it will solve your attic condensation. A well vented is needed for a piv unit. i fit lots of attic vents for clients in my day to day job.
I have this exact unit which I installed 2 weeks ago and before installing it our windows upstairs were dripping, I read countless reviews, some saying it works within a few days some say within weeks, it worked for us within a few days, I also installed soffit vents to make sure enough fresh air was coming through the loft for the unit to filter, the upstairs is colder but I will take that over mould and dripping windows any day! In case anyone reading this has an in-line extractor fan in their bathroom too, I upgraded that also to a powerful Manrose one with 20 minutes over run on and that too has had a dramatic difference.
I had mine installed about a year ago and the results have been excellent. We had lots of rising hot air to the top of the house which resulted in mould, we don’t have the issue anymore. There is a slight temperature drop at times but it’s minor and worth it.
We’ve had a piv without a heater for about fifteen years, and just replaced it with another unheated unit after the old one died. We get an experience of freshness - but not much cold, and the condensation that appeared when the old unit wasn’t working has gone. We’re in central Scotland, so not the warmest place in the world, and heat the house mainly via a wood burner and an open fire with the option of gas central heating if required.
I had an Xpelair Everdri in my house for 10 years that was absolutely fantastic. It literally just packed up the other day. I get really bad condensation and mould problems in my 1930s house without it. When I installed the Xpelair in 2012, the transformation was immediate. When it packed up last week, I was back to condensation for the first time in years. I've just installed one of these Vent axia units cause they no longer make the Xpelair. Hopefully, I'll have better luck than you with it!
That's interesting to hear, I hope so! Out of interest, how well insulated is your property?
Pretty well insulated. Has cavity wall insulation and something like 2 layers of fibreglass in the loft. I always had problems with condensation and green mould behind furniture close to any wall but the ppv eradicated it completely. I'm hoping this Vent Axia will do the same as my old Xpelair. I literally installed it today, so we'll see
@@TheMegsie1 Is it working mate?
@@mentality-monster Yes, it is. When I first installed it, I used the preset 3 bedroom setting but was still getting some condensation so I switched it to manual and increased the fan speed. Working spot on now.
I saw this on RUclips and was attracted to it except (from what I could see) the power cable comes out to the front of the wall opposed to being able to channel it into the wall. Means your left with a awful looking conduit or cable feeding to it. Did I see it right?
One point to consider would be the air quality from opening windows - does this unit have good enough filtration to remove PM 2.5 particles etc, which would make it a marked improvement from opening a window in a polluted area.
show us what fans - vents you have in your bathroom and kitchen to reduce the steam in the first instance, loft units are great for hard-to-vent homes or rentals that are over-occupied but as a single cure they are limited. if you make all the steam in your kitchen and bathroom utility room drying clothes, then those are the area's activities that need improved ventilation. fitting single room HRV in the non moisture producing rooms is like trying to capture the steam once its escaped the rooms making it..great video we do fit PIV units so knowing how they impact on the homeowner is so important as we are trying to cure condensation not make the home colder and harder to heat. hence would never just fit a PIV with out adequate extraction ventialtion
do you have humidity sensors in rooms to measure if it is having a positive results? You can get wireless bluetooth ones really cheaply
We have a nuair drimaster piv and it's definitely worked on our mould and damp spots. I was sceptical at first but it worked. It took a few months to really get rid of the worst places and we still get slight condensation on the windows if we close the curtains. If we leave them open then nothing. Our house is mid terrace, built in 1900.
Do loft needs to be ventilated to install piv system as one of the retailer asked this question before I order.
@@reyasgaming1758 yes, the unit draws air from the loft, filtered then distributed into your home, my loft is cold, and does not have a membrane under tiles, therefore works fine, no vents required.
I installed my Nuaire last week, live in a 1930's semi, mine does not have a heater, and really doesn't need it as the air circulated mixes in your home, and is heated anyway, if it's cold, wear a jumper.
I can confirm, the next day we had 1cm of condensation on our windows as opposed to the entire window face, day 2, zero, speed 4 setting, ensure the duct length stretched, no slack...
Our home heats up quicker, as moisture levels in our home is now between 52% --> 58%.
I'm sold on the unit, works, and has transformed our home.
Pull the trigger and buy it, Install it, let it run continuously and forget it's there.
@@ahjazhussain7393do you leave it going in summer?
@@fanfeck2844 Afternoon, I've only installed the Nuaire PIV approximately 4 weeks ago. My comments above was based on 2 weeks of usage. Wish I'd knew about this product some years ago.
No experience of usage in the summer, but I'm sure it'll being in fresh air into the home, I can update when the summer arrives.
Also, I have dropped the fan speed from 5 down to 3 now, still no condensation, and home feels fresh, but may drop it further down to 2 speed
@@ahjazhussain7393 thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for this video , it confirmed my thoughts on this colder house = increase in heating and electric costs. This is a requirement now on all new builds And extensions. And has to be installed by a certified installer! Aaargh
Hi I also get unit install with heater one but struggling with commissioning the unit. If possible can you share the commissioning video thanks
I look into these positive pressure fans. You basically blow all your heat out of your house.
Might as well go mechanical heat recovery.
You could drop entries and exits into each room from your loft.
I installed one for a test in the bathroom and it works amazingly.
Only problem is I need to work out how to root the pipe work.
I’ve just had one fitted the installation guys left it on max and was costing loads to run but having it on the lowest seems okay but how effective it is on low I’m not sure, when it’s on low we do still get condensation but that’s with the door closed overnight so I’ll keep the door a jar and see how it is
For them wondering if your heating will be more expensive.don’t worry . Once the house has dried out got rid of all the condensation it will be no dearer to heat your home . It’s easier to heat dry air than moist and dry air holds heat longer than moist air.you’ll find you won’t need your thermostat as high . It’s also best to keep your home at a constant lower temp around 18 /20 degrees The reason they go on the landing is your heat rises and mixes with the input of fresher air heating it and circulating it around your house and forcing the wet air out of natural gaps in your home Hope this has been of help
Hi Bob, I’ve read this online when I was researching the product, unfortunately it’s not entirely accurate. A damp house does feel colder, however, humid air holds heat more effectively than dry air and will therefore be easier to heat. The other point which was made to me by a specialist is that, assuming you live in the UK, the outside humidity tends to be pretty high, especially in places like exmoor where we live. For example, last night the outside humidity was 92% at our house. It’s that air that is being sucked into our house and a PIV isn’t a dehumidifier. I also find the concept that the damp air is pushed out of your house a hard one to believe, there are too many variables such as how well insulated your house is. Also, how would it identify the problem damp air over the fresh damp air? What I believe the PIV does do is increase the amount of fresh air in the house and forces the movement/circulation of air in your home, so stagnant air is dispersed, a bit like moist air on a windscreen which can be dispersed over time with cool air being blown on the screen. I can’t prove that more energy is being used at this point, but I don’t think the contrary could be proved either. I do think it’s logical to say that if air that is cooler than what your thermostat is set to, is being blown into your house all day then your heating bill will go up, just like it would if you left a window ajar.
I should also add that there’s no such thing as something for nothing, so for people that are concerned about the increase in energy, you can’t expect to not have an expenditure to cure a damp problem. It’s a case of weighing up the different options to see what works for you.
Humid air holds heat more effectively than dry air. (Not saying that humid air is good)
@@lifeatleigh271 humid air holds more heat, therefore takes more energy to heat. It is also better at losing that heat. Dry air doesn't feel as cold at the same temperature, because there is less heat exchange between you and the air around you. Ideally, you don't hear the air, but great the fabric of the building and get raising great from it which is much more comfortable. Try this: open all the windows in your house, cold air comes in. 10 minutes if enough to renew most of the air in a house. Close the windows, in 15 minutes you are pretty much back to temperature, because of the heat in the fabric of the building.
@@lifeatleigh271 Have a look at the dew point calculator online. It has three sliders and you can adjust them to view temp, relative humidity and dew point. As long as you are warming the outside air it will be dryer than inside air. 4 degree outside air at 92% relative humidity becomes 37% relative humdity when heated to 18 degrees.
As you say though, there is no energy saving way to deal with damp air. You either have to change the air and heat the fresh air or use a dehumidifier.
The single room heat recovery units usually work on a push pull system with two units synced up so one extracts whilst the other draws in air and then after 60 seconds they reverse. The heat is stored in a ceramic element. The single units may have two fans in one unit (for bathrooms etc, they are essentially two systems in one package). The fans still reverse as the airflows do not cross inside (at least with the design I've seen).
Forgot to add they are all ridiculously over priced, you could probably make one for £50.
I also installed this system into my house about a month ago. I think your review was spot on. Quite cold in the stairway where the vent comes out. In fact, I'm not sure if the heater works, something I'm following up Vent Axia with. I believe the system works well for upstairs, however we have a large open plan kitchen/diner/lounge and it just doesn't provide enough circulation to keep the roof lantern free of condensation. I'm going to install a single room heat recovery unit in there to compensate.
Hi Mark, please let me know how you get on with vent axia about the heater element as I'm also dubious about what it is or is not doing!
@@lifeatleigh271 So this is the reply I got from Vent-Axia yesterday, I quote: "The heater is just to take the chill off the air to prevent feeling a cold draft from the diffuser but will only pulsate. To test if the heater is working I suggest increasing the heater setting to 20 deg C & the remove the ductwork off the heater. Then with the heater still attached place you hand directly over it for at least a minute & you will feel the heat." I'll go in the attic at teh weekend to try it out.
@@markevans8761 fantastic, thanks for the update!
@@markevans8761 Mark, curious to know if you felt any temp change when set to 20 as thats the exact same reply that Ive just received from vent-axia. This is the second unit as
the supplier reckoned the first unit was faulty and replaced it straight away without hesitation.
@@alyo9704 Yes it did get warmer but its suttle for sure. I think it only works if you have the air flow on trickle otherwise the air doesn't have a chance to heat whilst passing over the fillament.
Finally a honest review of PIV thank you. I was concerned about the unit blowing in cold air (confirmed) and does it, by design, also force out the central heated air from within your home? Costing more in heating to compensate for the drop/loss.
Pleasure Daniel, pleased you liked it. I can't say for sure whether it forces the warm air out any more than I can say that it forces moist air out. However, since the air coming in is cool, there must be an increase in the cost of energy to heat your home.
in theory it may not add to heating costs for a normally ventilated house. You may have slightly lower heating costs but masked if you have poor ventilation so not enough air changes. This may be helping to restore a more normal air change number and so your heating may be more ‘normal’ but yes you’d see that as higher bills than you currently have, if that makes sense?
You can set the flow rate based on the house size, the manual gives flow rates. Building codes recommend 1.5 air changes per hour I think and it's fairly straightforward to calculate building volume and set accordingly. This should ensure better air quality as well as reducing moisture.
If your house is too well sealed then you might need not have enough air changes, installing one of these will then increase heating costs. But also reduce the chance of mould and improve your health, worth it really.
I've fitted one to a 1906 UK terrace recently, the hallway is colder but less damp is worth it for me.
I have the same exact system and had it over 6 months now, the damp has completely gone, but still get condensation still in my bedroom maybe due to door being closed at night time, other rooms and living rooms nomore condensation! Anyone know how to activate the heating? My landing is so cold
Hi I was thinking getting one myself rather than getting a dehumidifier to remove excess moisture from drying clothes and hopefuly no more moisture on our bedroom windows in the mornings. I am planning to get sensors to measure the moisture in the air to see how bad it is first. I read that does take time to notice the difference. Also I thought the system would draw air directly from the outside of the house rather than getting it from the attic. Last thing I want is getting attic smells in our house. Nice video maybe do a follow up video after a month.
Hi Brian, we used a dehumidifier for a while, but they are expensive to run and you end up having to drag it aroudn the house to air the rooms individually, so not ideal! The one bonus of drawing air from the attic is you are benefiting from any heat that has escaped through your insulation, so it's not quite as fresh! I haven't smelt the attic in a while now so it would appear that smell is temporary, although on a hot summers day that might be a different story. Good idea on the follow up video, I'll bear it in mind!
I am planning on installing the same unit in my house. Did you already have a power socket in your loft? If not, where did you take power from? Thanks
Hi @@kaz668, I wired a socket in. We had a redundant live wire that used to go across to the barn so it was a simple fix for us. Good luck with the installation!
You can get units with charcoal filters which may help with odours.
ruclips.net/video/xpVSiyIClLI/видео.html
I totally agree, I've had mine 2 years ( not this one the other popular brand from the 70s). I just wanted to say I wouldn't get one again it does really make the house cold and only works on high settings like 4/5 or 6 and I have a tiny 2 bed terrace. They state you need a high value for 6 months then you can reduce it, but when you do it just doesn't work. I'm not convinced it's helped overall just annoyed my gf as it's so cold lol. In hindsight I'd have spent the money on proper extraction units and insulate where needed. I hope I save anyone reading this money :).
If you are having to run it on anything above setting 2 in a two bed terrace, something is wrong, most probably air getting back into the loft from the upstairs ceiling. Did you seal around the gap in the ceiling that was cut out to fit the ceiling vent? It does not usually mention this in the instructions but it should as this is very important, otherwise a lot of the pumped air will go straight back up to the loft. Have you made sure that the loft hatch is sealed well, including using draft proofing strips? Are there any largeish holes in the upstairs ceiling that could be hidden behind light fittings, etc?
I fitted a unit a week ago, (early August, UK), in my two bed semi, and was amazed at the lack of information it gave about sealing the ceiling, but I did what I mentioned above right at the start, and now the unit seems to be working brilliantly on setting 2, the humidity has dropped to between 50% and 60% in the house, even with outside humidity levels of 80% to 90%, (I was having to use a dehumidifier regularly to get it that low before). All I can feel when I place my hand next to the outlet in the ceiling is a very small draft, so I am more than happy with the results so far.
@@Gavin_Gbk @Gavin_Gbk makes alot of sense about sealing it, I have no doubt that most likely it's recycling the damp air as I have a ton of old style spot lights upstairs that aren't sealed like the modern fire ones you get. I'll give that a go thanks.
This is interesting, cheers.
If anyone knows how to activate the heat setting on this system please get in touch how to do it, thanks!
Hi, we are also considering getting one of these units to help deal with same condensation/damp/mould problems as stated by everyone here. I guess I would really like to know if after approx. 4 weeks since you installed it, you now think its made any difference? Also, with the heated version, would you say its less/more expensive to run than a dehumidifier? We currently have a dehumidifier and although we only live in a 48m2 flat - it really doesnt cut it unless moving around the rooms as you said. I'm hoping with a small area to work on (48m2) this unit might provide quite rapid results. Thanks
Hi Andrew,
My understanding is that they are much cheaper to run than a dehumdifier, the other bonus is that they run 24/7 without requiring emptying and in theory cover the whole house. They are also much quieter and take up less space. I'm not totally convinced by the unit, we still have some condensation on windows and I think more time is needed to establish how effective it is. With hindsight, I think I would have preferred a heat recovery unit, I found this one just after purchasing ours which looks brilliant as you can link the units if you end up using more than one. amzn.to/3UAWE66
@@lifeatleigh271 Thanks very much for replying. I have spoken to a few people who highly recommend the piv units but the one you reviewed was the one Im thinking of buying. I'm slightly hesitant now and think Ill look into the heat recovery unit you linked. Thanks again
Our dehumidifier on clothes drying mode uses about 230w per hour. We found it wasn't that good for whole house condensation control. (Great in a single room)
The heated PIV I believe is 420w per hour (not bought the heater just yet)
Ow the PIV without heater is 15w per hour
@@lifeatleigh271 it could be that a fair amount of moisture has sunk into the walls and will take a while to drive out. 20ml of moisture per breath adds up.
Would this resolve my extreme condensation build up on my loft. I have an 11 year old Taylor Wimpey build. And during extreme cold weather I have water dripping from the membrane in the loft. I have fitted lap vents and an air brick but still no joy.
It might help, hard to say without knowing your full situation, but the extra ventilation wouldn't hurt. I suspect more insulation between your house and the loft would potentially be more effective.
No that's a different problem to solve. Look for potential sources of water in the loft e.g. bathroom vent venting into the loft, air admittance valve stuck open on a soil pipe or unsealed central heating expansion tank. Making sure there is enough insulation and the loft hatch is sealed is also good. However I did all those and the only thing to solve it was tile vents and never had the issue since.
Have you an update on how you think the unit is responding?. I am considering installing one of these as we have terrible condensation/black mould regrowth issues each winter. Ty
Hi Mike, yes I’m planning an update video, I should have it done next week.
ruclips.net/video/xpVSiyIClLI/видео.html
Hi,
Great video. I’ve got the unit in my loft and it cleared up all the condensation in my home, though my nest thermostat still shows a very high humidity reading so I’m not fully convinced either. I know you said with the heater on it doesn’t feel warm but does it feel cold at all? My unit doesn’t have the heating element and it’s currently blowing in very cold air as we’re in winter.
Thanks
Josh
Hi Josh, the air is cool, but I think the heater does take the edge off it...
@@lifeatleigh271 Ok thanks a lot
Mine is freezing! My landing is 13c right now whilst my rooms are 19-20c. I My attic is around 5c with outside temp 0c. The heater takes the edge off but it's still cold and expensive. Around 35p per hrs based on Oct energy price cap. I'm now looking to fine a way to insulate my loft without reducing ventilation and causing condensation. Overall the PIV has worked at reducing my humidity levels. I'm sitting around 47-55%
@@mrmiruk what settings are you using to get your heater to work my house is freezing, I have the heater unit but not sure how to activate it
@@scottshuter1163 it should come on automatically based on the temperature setting you select on the unit itself I.e. I set mine for 5c before it comes on. You press mode a few times and you'll have one for the heater to active (I've forgotten off the top of my head). A remind the heater is not temperature adjustable so it's either on or off. At 500w it doesn't do much to be honest
Why don't you get a hygrometer or two to see if it is working? You generally need a gap under your doors to help circulate the air around the house.
I was going to comment the same thing. The little bluetooth temperature and humidity loggers are pretty cheap (£10-15) and let you compare how things change over several days rather than just looking at instantaneous values.
I have condensation in my attic,i have been told this would fix this. It would be Vented out of the roof threw a roof tile,Anyone done this ?
Can anyone enlighten me how the PIV unit work please?
Does it blow air into the house from the loft or does it suck air from the house into the loft?
And what is the purpose of the heating part of the PIV?
Thanks
It blows air from the loft into the house
A follow up video would be great if you have the time.
ruclips.net/video/xpVSiyIClLI/видео.html
Aren't you supposed to let it do its job for a few weeks before you see any real difference across the entire house?
Is there the possibility that this just dumps all your wet air into the loft?
I wouldn’t have thought so, I guess it depends on where the path of least resistance is.
Mine is freezing! My landing is 13c right now whilst my rooms are 19-20c. I My attic is around 5c with outside temp 0c. The heater takes the edge off but it's still cold and expensive. Around 35p per hrs based on Oct energy price cap. I'm now looking to fine a way to insulate my loft without reducing ventilation and causing condensation. Overall the PIV has worked at reducing my humidity levels. I'm sitting around 47-55%
Do you know how to activate the heating on it?
@@shahidurrahman6441 it does should come on automatically based on the temperature setting you select on the unit itself I.e. I set mine for 5c before it comes on
When you say insulate your loft...
Lay insulation on top of the upstairs rooms within the loft space but DO NOT try and insulate the loft space from the outside air.
Your loft should have air movement all year round. Yes it will be cold in the winter and hot in the summer but this allows moisture which gets in from the living space to move out through gaps instead of condensing and causing mold and wet patches which can mess badly with the loft space insulation.
If anything folks need to add air vents to allow adequate ventilation in the loft rather than looking to seal it from the outside air👍🏼
@@okcyurwin yep exactly thats why I said to find a way to insulate without reducing ventilation and creating condensation. Not found a solution to date sadly
@@mrmiruk hey I been thinking maybe that tlx silver foil bellow the rafts will help a bit to stop condensed. I got same issue and i thinking to fix that foil on to the rafter's. Because my roof membrane are nonbriethet But scaring as well that might couse more problems because everything gonna be closed.
I can't tell if he's really tall or lives in an old place with low ceilings...
My biggest concern is that it will make the house colder which means heating will have to be on a lot longer
It will, that's why I would recommend the item linked in the first comment.
That’s partially true.. but if you have high humidity then it’s already costing you more to heat your house than if the air was dry. It’s not just about raising the air temp from A to B… you could start with a lower temperature but if the air is clean and dry it will take significantly less energy to raise the temperature than moist air.
@@chrisf5475 I believe the amount of energy would not be that significant, but I can’t find much evidence to support that claim, but you are right, it would take less energy. I guess the question then remains as to whether a PIV is an effective method of reducing the humidity in a home which I am still sceptical about.
@@lifeatleigh271 humidity in my house went from hoovering above 70%, to averaging 50%. Measured with two sensors, on ground floor and 1st floor. No more condensation on the Velux windows either. It definitely does work for us. I have the heater version of the ventaxia.
@@lifeatleigh271 that item says unavailable lol
Do loft needs to be ventilated to install PIV system.
Yes they do
@@lifeatleigh271 So your loft is freezing. I have converted my loft so it's warm. I am trying bubble wrap on my windows and it worked on one window overnight. So I am going to get more bubble wrap.🙄
My loft is not ventilated and the piv system works perfectly fine
@@shahidurrahman6441I have a few roof vents for the loft but my piv unit doesn't get rid of condensation at all
You can get a heat recovery unit that you just swap with your bathroom extraction
How has it been so far?? Thanks
ruclips.net/video/xpVSiyIClLI/видео.html
Sponsored by setraline? 😂 cheer up fella lifes not great but we’re all in it together and you’re lucky enough not to be a renter!😂😂😂 i love my piv, it uses 16 watts and hour which soon racks up when your rents gone up over £200 a month but we have ours on a timer for half the day to push the moist air out to avoid the window thing (Germans have a word for twice venting a day to remove moist air) either way I’m 60% loving piv overall!
Does anyone have one of these that can explain how to use the heater on it? The controls have fried my brain 😂
I have a piv unit but don't think it has a heater built in, it's always on but doesn't work still get bad condensation when in the colder months, can't get to settings (not that I can gey the hang of them may aswell be written in jibberish) as my ladder isn't big enough to reach
@@stequalityany improvement as yet?
@@umarj3461 made it worst my dehumidifier said the humidity was higher with piv on than off as my dehumidifier says the humidity level on it, which is very strange to be honest
I have a different one in my apartment n it sounds like being on a plane 🙉
For anyone interested, this is an alternative unit that I have found which I think could be a great alternative. I haven't tried it personally, but I suspect it won't be long before we do get one! amzn.to/3ZcOHHC
hi leigh, thanks for the video. Question i had was, is one sufficient for both dormers or would it be two individual units for both rooms. Thanks
@@thebeardedguy9809 I'm not too sure to be honest, I thinkthere are a lot of factors involved. I'm pretty sure you can arrange for free consulatations on either this product or another brand and then go off their opinion. I was personally planning on installnig two, one in the bathroom and one in the kitchen as they are the most humid rooms.
@@lifeatleigh271 the heat recovery unit costs £500. Instead just buy 2 meaco 25L Arete dehumidifiers. Close all of your windows and vents so your home retains heat and then bobs your uncle. Thats what we did in our large dorma bungalow.
Those single room vents are a waste of money.
Doesn't make a noticeable difference.
They seem to be made for folks that thought having a vent for each room would be helpful.
Expensive waste of time and money and energy.
He looks like an extra from a robin hood movie.