Send the exhaust into the top of a steel single manual radiator (from scrap yard ) and exit the at the bottom to outside, tilt rad to allow condensate to drain then your garage space will get some more heat, also fit a smioke and CO alarm. Well done
Very important..... the air filter should be outside, relatively close to the exhaust. The point is that when there are gusts of wind, the air pressure balances at the inlet and outlet. It is also important to recover heat from the exhaust gases! The best way is to use an old heater connected between the stove and the muffler! Of course, in this case, SMOKE AND CO DETECTORS SHOULD BE USED IN THE HOUSE! I also recommend connecting a sand battery instead of a heater. Look for the video: DIY Vevor Diesel Stove with Free Energy Sand Battery
If the heat around the house is uneven, it could be helpful to add ventilation between rooms with a couple of small fans; this will make the space heat up more quickly and avoid overheating certain areas. It might also be beneficial to insulate the pipes on the heater since there will be heat loss into the garage (unless this is desired!)
always interested in your advancements , ive got every thing set up correctly inside and out side my home now , just trying to get the courage up make the hole in the wall of my cottage ( built 1888 ) :/ 100% success with my work shop set up though .
Hey Andy. Great little setup. Curious as a Brit living here ain Ontario, I guess you don't have many power outages in Birmingham. I have similar set up here in my shed and my basement in the house, but in addition I have a 10 ah battery hooked up just in case we get a quickie outage. Which we do a lot in the winter. Great video thow.
I don't think pulling combustion intake air from the inside of the is the best idea. It will cause it to pull cold air into the house through cracks and crevices. I don't think it will hurt anything to use outside air for combustion.
Andy get your gas bottle with sand on that exhaust and heat the garage or at least frostproof it, you've already shown it works and show us the sand temperature after a prolonged burn
I think the general consensus is that the inlet for the burn chamber should be drawn in from a cooler location for a more efficient burn. Don't quote me on this but may be worth researching. Nice set up though 👍 👍
I agree. You are drawing fresh breathable air from your house and burning it away out the exhaust. Unless you are in a very cold country it will be ok to get the outside temperature for combustion. Other than that is a brilliant set up!
Just thinking about this further, I reason that if the intake is inside and the exhaust outside then there would be a net negative pressure in the area created which in turn will draw cold air in from outside. Not significant I doubt but every little helps!
Can the exhaust pipe be put inside the house into a chimney from a former oven (sealed around like a wood oven)? would the exhaust gas rise up? Maybe plus a co2 detector? I am looking for a solution in my house during spring / autmn (in Germany)? Thank you.
Wouldn't be happy with a smart meter without alternative heating. Take it one litre can run for up to 4 hours, with about 1.5kWh output. Road tax paid diesel is much easier to hold of, walk to the petrol station. Expensive if used all the time.
You can use used car oil and add 10% diesel or kerosene, then add 130% water, but the water must be ionized, then put the entire amount in a blender until the color of the milk becomes white. Of course, it is preferable to filter the used car oil before using it, and the best thing is to use the centrifugal process with a strong magnet. You will have a very clean combustion and it will burn 100/💯 without clogging the device from the inside with carbon, and the exhaust will also be clean and the amount of fuel will double by adding ionized water. I use 300 grams of Senap Mild to bind the ionized water with diesel, used oil, or kerosene.🎉🎉🎉🎉😂
Very nice setup. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Thanks for watching!
Send the exhaust into the top of a steel single manual radiator (from scrap yard ) and exit the at the bottom to outside, tilt rad to allow condensate to drain then your garage space will get some more heat, also fit a smioke and CO alarm. Well done
Very important..... the air filter should be outside, relatively close to the exhaust. The point is that when there are gusts of wind, the air pressure balances at the inlet and outlet. It is also important to recover heat from the exhaust gases! The best way is to use an old heater connected between the stove and the muffler! Of course, in this case, SMOKE AND CO DETECTORS SHOULD BE USED IN THE HOUSE! I also recommend connecting a sand battery instead of a heater. Look for the video: DIY Vevor Diesel Stove with Free Energy Sand Battery
If the heat around the house is uneven, it could be helpful to add ventilation between rooms with a couple of small fans; this will make the space heat up more quickly and avoid overheating certain areas. It might also be beneficial to insulate the pipes on the heater since there will be heat loss into the garage (unless this is desired!)
great comment thanks andy
always interested in your advancements , ive got every thing set up correctly inside and out side my home now , just trying to get the courage up make the hole in the wall of my cottage ( built 1888 ) :/ 100% success with my work shop set up though .
the hole also doubles up as an aircon outlet. so it is well worth doing.
cheers andy
That silencer should be outside your garage as it has a drain hole and will spill products of combustion into your garage.
yes, correct
thanks andy
Hey Andy. Great little setup. Curious as a Brit living here ain Ontario, I guess you don't have many power outages in Birmingham. I have similar set up here in my shed and my basement in the house, but in addition I have a 10 ah battery hooked up just in case we get a quickie outage. Which we do a lot in the winter. Great video thow.
thanks,
we dont get many power cuts here.
please take a look at my other videos with different power supplies and back up switchers.
cheers andy
@@andyfireblade I will. Cheers.
I don't think pulling combustion intake air from the inside of the is the best idea. It will cause it to pull cold air into the house through cracks and crevices. I don't think it will hurt anything to use outside air for combustion.
you are correct thanks andy
did you see my other heater videos: www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
Andy get your gas bottle with sand on that exhaust and heat the garage or at least frostproof it, you've already shown it works and show us the sand temperature after a prolonged burn
I think the general consensus is that the inlet for the burn chamber should be drawn in from a cooler location for a more efficient burn. Don't quote me on this but may be worth researching. Nice set up though 👍 👍
Great point!
I agree. You are drawing fresh breathable air from your house and burning it away out the exhaust. Unless you are in a very cold country it will be ok to get the outside temperature for combustion. Other than that is a brilliant set up!
Just thinking about this further, I reason that if the intake is inside and the exhaust outside then there would be a net negative pressure in the area created which in turn will draw cold air in from outside. Not significant I doubt but every little helps!
Don't quote me on this.. but think colder air has greater oxygen density, so assists with efficient burning.🤔
Can the exhaust pipe be put inside the house into a chimney from a former oven (sealed around like a wood oven)? would the exhaust gas rise up? Maybe plus a co2 detector? I am looking for a solution in my house during spring / autmn (in Germany)? Thank you.
Yes you can!
Was the voltage pre set at 12v as they can do 24v too ?
Not set mine up yet
some are 12 and some are 24 and some are both
good luck with yours cheers andy
Wouldn't be happy with a smart meter without alternative heating. Take it one litre can run for up to 4 hours, with about 1.5kWh output. Road tax paid diesel is much easier to hold of, walk to the petrol station. Expensive if used all the time.
How much has it increased the electrical bill for the power supply to run the heater? (%) The electrical bill at the end of the month I mean.
really nothing, cheers andy
How much does it cost to run though? And I’ve seen in the comments people saying about red diesel but that’s illegal and punishable by fine
please see my other videos about running costs. also it is ok to run these on red. but you cant put red in a car.
kerosene is the cheapest
cheers andy
Have you got exposed terminals on the transformer? If so, that's a potential killer!
i will cover that thanks andy
@@andyfireblade 👍
How much a hour do they use in diesel
please have a look at my other videos. i do a test and it will shock you,
cheers andy
Whatever happened to the van videos you were doing some time ago ?
thanks for asking. i wasent enjoying it. and it was quiet depressing for me.
cheers andy
You can use used car oil and add 10% diesel or kerosene, then add 130% water, but the water must be ionized, then put the entire amount in a blender until the color of the milk becomes white. Of course, it is preferable to filter the used car oil before using it, and the best thing is to use the centrifugal process with a strong magnet. You will have a very clean combustion and it will burn 100/💯 without clogging the device from the inside with carbon, and the exhaust will also be clean and the amount of fuel will double by adding ionized water. I use 300 grams of Senap Mild to bind the ionized water with diesel, used oil, or kerosene.🎉🎉🎉🎉😂
I'm sure any home insurance would be voided if they knew of these potentially dangerous setups inside the property
good comment paul.
cheers andy
Senap Mild