The BUTCHER SHOP Volvo (XC70 No-Start - Part 2)
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- After assessing the situation and resetting the timing belt, will this BUTCHERED Volvo XC70 actually start up and run? PLACE YOUR BETS NOW!
Judging by the "quality" of work from the previous shop, I have a feeling that this is just the tip of the iceberg.
Customer wants to drive his Volvo back to Virginia 7 hours away, so we have a LOT of work to do to make this car road-worthy again.
I also replace the left front strut mount and diagnose why the steering wheel is severely crooked when going straight...apparently more than one Butcher had his hands on this Volvo!!
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Enjoy!
Ivan
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I feel for that owner. He was screwed over by so many people just trying to get his Volve fixed. At least he found you in the end. As soon as I saw the rear control arm, I knew exactly what caused that damage. I will be looking for one of these Volvos to be replacing my old Kia very soon. You have convinced me they are good cars.
Very good cars. I've got the 2001 V70 2.4T. Great car. If you decide to get one check the PCV system. They're known to clog and cause pressure buildup and if too severe it'll blow camshaft seals. It's a simple test. Open the oil filler cap and put a latex glove over the filler neck. If the glove inflates the PCV is clogged. You'll also see smoke coming out of the dipstick tube. They're also known to destroy the front struts mounting, like the one it then video. They're on the heavy side and the stress there is quite high. Overall great car. For their age I suggest one w/o nivomat suspension unless you're willing to spend the money to fix it eventually.
I feel bad that someone took money to mess his car up because whoever it was they weren't a mechanic, so he was trying to fix it on the cheap and you get what you pay for. BTW, I have a 2002 S-60, style wise it still holds up, I bought it at over 100K miles and now at around 170K and it still runs great and everything works. It's not bad to work on and it let's me keep up my manly mechanic skills.
@@johnnyblue4799 Thank you for the advice. Be well.
@@Columbus1152 Well, we don't know if the "Butcher" was a cheap shop or not. I will say that the use of the carrier was a bit sketchy, however finding a good and reputable carrier in today's hotshot environment can be very difficult. Be well friend.
@@mattbrown5511 Thank you! You too!
Welcome to our new world. I am talking about the people (mechanics) (tow drivers) who don't care or just are not capable of doing the work.
Please tell me we can go back to the good old days. But I don't think so.
Thankfully there are still some good people like Ivan. They are so hard to find.
I sold a classic vehicle and the new owner sent one of those no name outfits to pick up his purchase.
I stopped the guy as i noticed he was beginning to bend the steering rod as he had failed to wrap around the axle.
Of course, dude wasn't even watching as he was bending.
You definitely get what you pay for!
If you have to pull the cover to reapply RTV, may want to put in Time-Sert thread repair inserts.
Great idea, I’m doing this on a t6 turbo and working on the turbos is horrible
Time-sert is that the same as a helicoil?
The metal thread repair inserts?
@@sumduma55 Similar take of the same concept. If I remember it right Time-sert is a solid insert, rather than a coil like the Helicoil style insert.
I'll have to look them up.
@sumduma55 They look like they will make a great repair. I was looking at doing my Transmission outlet, but they were $225 for the such a large fitting (expense climbs steeply as the size increases, but Helicoil is same way), so I used a hollow thread from lamp repair/building and put a union on the end of it. Ford use Straight Pipe Thread, so that was a learning experience (NPT from hardware store was no good). Ended up being about $40 and doesn't leak, so it was a good compromise.
I transferred all the mechanical components from my rusted car to an un-rusted, broken car hauled to a salvage yard. Same as this Volvo: it was improperly repaired. I felt very, very sorry for the previous owner who abandoned a functional vehicle thinking the repairs were beyond their budget when in fact, with competent service, could have served them for years.
I'm really falling in love with that first shop...
They've got style !!!
Ivan, those spring compressors are a major injury waiting to happen
Save up/reallocate the budget to a proper free standing or wall mounted unit, please 🥺
Ivan, All the problems of a pyramid, you strat at the top and work your way down, having more problems as you go, your patient's is that of a saint, Keep up the great work.
I did a total from-the-frame-out front end rebuild on a 1993 Chevy C1500 a few years ago. That's new upper and lower control arms -- everything!
Once done, I guessed at the initial alignment and took it for a ride around the block parking in a flat cul-de-sac. I then eyeballed from the front to the rear getting it as close as the shadetree method would allow. After repeating the drive/adjust cycle a couple of times, it was as close as one could get eyeballing.
A buddy of mine is a master tech at a local dealer. He offered to put the newly-front-ended truck up on an official laser shootin' alignment rack at his employer's shop.
And wouldn't you know, the thing was *almost* in-spec. My buddy looked at me with a smile because he knows how fastidious I am when it comes to mechanical work.
It is very possible to bang out a near perfect front end alignment with the old eyeball and string method.
Last string alignment I saw was at a VW dealer! In 1970. The Pine may be hollow but the videos are solid.
Ivan, you are like a messiah of auto repair. I love "vegging" out and just watching you go thru the ropes.
You are absolutely amazing! Can't think of any other legitimate mechanic that would have taken on this turd, especially when they popped the hood and saw what you saw. They would have shut the hood, called the owner and tell them to have the car removed from your property.
The next question is why would someone pay a towing bill all the way from Virginia and then pay for at least 3 days of Ivan's labor on a car with almost 300,000 miles? Hey, that model Volvo is a good car but there is a shelf life on all cars. Perhaps a misguided emotional attachment?
It's his wife's favorite car 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks Ivan. Figured it had to be something like that. Sometimes we all develop blind spots and override our own logic.
Absolutely classic! Ivan, I'll bet you lunch that the sealant the butcher shop used on the cam cover, is blocking the oil passage to the rear cam actuator. I've had a bit of luck with using threaded inserts to fix those stripped out cam cover bolt holes. Word to the wise, never use power tools to secure those bolts. And to answer another question Ivan. Both rear toe alignment bars are bent. You're probably right about the tow company causing that damage. Yikes! What a mess.
CAREFUL: As mentioned by commenter @matte.hartman, Volvo cam covers are matched / paired to their heads. Hopefully the earlier butchers did NOT swap the camshaft cover. Both parts (cover and head) are stamped on the non-timing side between the rear cam seals, possibly behind that bracket supporting the top engine torque mount. Please see Robert DIY's video for details, "WARNING! Volvo cylinder head information, no valve cover, cam cover must match the cylinder head. QT". Since the engine runs so well, probably it's still using paired parts. BTW the top PCV hose beside the oil fill will also put out a lot of oil if not tight. So will a poor gasket on the oil fill cap. THANK YOU for your videos - a long time fan.
What an incredible, expensive mess. I didn't understand the butcher shop title initially but I do now. Thanks, Ivan, for not only sorting it out but also recording it all for our education (entertainment?)
Wow Ivan, that car has been through the mill! Fortunately it got to the right guy in the end!
Ivan, got to give you praise for your tenacity with this one, you have put a massive amount of skill time and effort into this lemon. Most shops would not have considered repairs to this vehicle in the destroyed state it was in. Appreciate that you will get some revenue from the video and it does make good content for you, however, you really need to be applying a premium charge for the "engine rebuild" because it's your expertise that needs to be paid for here.
Resuscitation of a severely mistreated Volvo. Make it rolling again... Great work, amazing patience..
Great watching, just like watching a murder mystery……who killed the car and can they get away with it.👍
I got a Mercedes rn that a tow company hooked to tie rod. Broke the inner bent the outer. So then they wrapped around upper n lower control arm n bent them. All instead of pulling the plug and putting the hook in
Nice job Ivan. I would think most mechanics would run away from the hack job the previous shop did. As long as the customer understands not to blame you for any other surprises that pop up.
Ivan you Sir have the patience of Job and the heart of a Saint ! .Hope Part 3 doesnt end badly when customer realises that he just sunk $2X in repairs into a $X value car .
Hi Ivan, it is good you have the temperament to go through all these problems, non of which were known to you on delivery. Many many thanks from UK.
The poor owner! Man, they can’t catch a break! At least they came to you before spending any more money. At least they can trust you to fix it right!
thank you for the look at the strut, I have to do this on my 06 xc90 and my 08 xc90. the joy of living in the sticks of Maine, 2 miles down a dirt road. As always you're amazing and I loved the video.
Ivan, you're the best!
To take a non running vehicle and put it back together to be road worthy, takes a special person!
I am pretty confident that the head wasn't off of this thing by the butcher shop. The cam cover probably was, however. With this level of dickery, I have extremely low confidence that they would have got that head and exhaust back on.
Always find the the straight ahead position of the steering axle first. From this postion the alignment is done. NOT from the steering wheel position. This mistake is very common.
Ivan, you need to do a video on how to interview shops for non-car peoplw can determine if its a good place. I normally do alot of my own work but a transverse V6 transmission was too much. I interviewed several shops, step 1 why are there so many cars park on the lot (sloppy shops tend to have too many long term yard ornament cars). Step 2 ask how they plan to trouble shoot and repair (if they say we will figure it out, run). Then ask about warranty. I found a shop that had done so many they pass the interview. It did take 6 or 7 tries.
Ivan, you did a disservice to butcher shops everywhere, by comparing these horrible mechanic hacks to those who give us quality butchering.
Poor Volvo, more and more damage found. The bent suspension arms, thought first someone tested the AWD abilities offroad, and went a bit too far, but a result of what towing company did... I'm speechless.
Hy Ivan... I. Watching your videos foarte about a year. I have it a problem whit a parasitic draw and I sow one of your videos .. I was a mechanic not a top one I was at the bottom in the past but .and after my life took me on a different path to work in amazon... after from your videos I decided to leave amazon and to go back on automotive field again ,and now I running a mobile mechanic repairs and i make good money and phone ring every day .thank you for everything you make me to do what I like again.
Ivan, You are amazing and once again you have taken a disaster and brought it back from the brink. It is wonderful how even though someone went out of their way to get everything taken apart, broken and then mixed up and yet you still keep a great attitude and figure out each step and always keep the customers needs first rather than take the butcher shops method of excessive parts cannon use and short cutting. I learn so much from your videos but didn't know that you were a math wizard as well...LOL. Truly a Jedi Master for sure. Thanks so much for a great video and I look forward to seeing part 3.
When you started doing that math I felt like the guy from the Butcher Shop.
lol. Thanks for sharing.
It's simple 10th grade trigonometry. If you forget how to do it, just look up a video and it will bring back those lost memories. :)
yes ...I glazed over too ... ( Australia )
It all started with ignition coils ... and went to the car's suspension and toe adjustment ...
Thank you for the example of setting convergence using a string and a ruler)
An engineer is an engineer!👏🏻
I think one or more coils were initially faulty, they were replaced by mixing up the connectors and the connection sequence, after which quite a few extra parts were thrown in, with a partial disassembly of the engine ... THIS IS JUST SOMETHING CRAZY!🤦🏼♂️
I saw a similar situation on the SD channel, quite a few spare parts were thrown in due to incorrect connection of the coils ...
Thank you Ivan! 🤝
Looking forward to the third part 😉
Yay, it runs!!! You're a brave man, Ivan - I had to use spring compressors like yours a couple of times and I was scared until the spring was finally released - I will never do it again.
After all this, the botched jobs continue! What a mess - seems everyone that touched the car, for whatever reason, damaged something. Even the tow company! And there's still the valve cover problem - wonder what you'll find in there, besides stripped threads! Butcher Shop is the right name! On to Part 3 (is it the last?).
I hate throwing other shops under the bus. If we all talk bad about each other, it just reflects badly on the industry as a whole. BUT, in this case the shop that worked on this car needs to be identified and held accountable. Totally unacceptable, either refund the guys money OR be exposed on the internets.
Next point- You are a super intelligent guy, but you are going to get hurt one day. It happened to me. I was almost killed working on a car. Now I am a Safety 1st guy. It happens so fast. Its just not worth taking any chances. You are loved by many, please be carefull. A strut compressor is like 600 bucks. How much for a new eye? Or hand? Great video as always.
My theory is that the owner found a confident young lad who genuinely thought he knew all about car repair. The boy probably has a Honda Civic with extra small and extra wide tires on his car. So the kid tries to throw the car back together and hopes it will work. Then, there's the car hauler, hustling to make a buck. All this on a premium car that is a bit exotic. In my experience, many of the folks with money are always looking for a less expensive way to get by - it's how they became wealthy! Anyways, I hope you are charging enough for your labor! You deserve premium price! Great job!
Glad I watched to the end - I was in the middle of typing that I thought the swing-arm damage was done by a towing company. The same thing happened to a friend - only they managed to crimp the brake lines, no-one noticed, and she lost her brakes (in the snow) on the way home. She was lucky not to have been injured!
The stripped out bolts on the cam cover
Can be fixed by putting a small piece of wire in the hole and thread the bolt in tighten it .
Ivan get you a tire scribe to do your alignments. Then all you need is your tape measure to do Toe. ;)
That control arm is J-hook damage from a tow truck. I've seen that for sure..
Wow!!!! again, you are showing mastery of not only electronics/engine functions, but also the math that specifies the alignment geometrics. Incredible work....the owner should thank the Lucky Stars that the vehicle is in your hands....Bravo.....everyone can learn plenty from this video!!
You are a patient and dedicated soul, Ivan!
Congratulations on another job well done!!!
Ivan. Just an idea. In regards to the loose and leaking cam cover bolts. How about using a helix coil repair kit. To keep it simple find a helix that will thread into the original threads and that gets a good bite and get a shoulder bolt that would adapt to fit. At least you would have some good threads that will hold and use some rtv to seal them up.
Problem beeing the bolthole is probably not leaking, but the cover is usually glued to the head, if you don't use the correct sealent there it will leak into the bolthole but between the top and bottom and not on the threads.
@@tschuuuls486 Using the correct sealant is important......if your there, fix all destroyed threads.
@@tschuuuls486 Ivan said that some of the bolt hole threads are stripped out. So if you want a proper seal you have to have proper torque on that cover to seal it correctly. So if the bolts are not holding down the cover then you are going to have leaks and if you look at the video of the cover you can see oil around the top of the cover bolts.
@@brucel76 that's also true.
I used anaerobic sealer with a paint roller.
I absolutely do NOT trust those spring compressors... I've seen them fail many times. I colleague of mine was nearly killed by one that let go, the spring took off and embedded itself into the shops concrete wall... no joke. I was seriously getting very nervous when you had your face over that spring Ivan. Yikes !
yes : I disliked that whole segment sorry Ivan
Ivan, you got to be careful using tools. You have one life to take care of and your family expects you to do that.
Btw, so much respect to you for showing the high school math being used to solve a problem. At least it will allow few parent to show their kids (mostly teens) why math is so important and is part of our life. The BS that math is hard has gone on for too long. Thank you for the content. Take care my friend and be safe. With best regards.
What part broke/failed?
Put a small webbing ratchet strap over the accessible coils, no need to do anything other than snug.
but Ivan got er done
Hi Ivan. I don’t know if I was taught wrong in the 60’s ( old school) doing a wheel alignment we always measured from the wheel rims . Yes I know every one in comments have different ideas . Just an observation. As always you’re doing a thorough job 🛠⚔️🔧👍
Tip: When ever doing struts, Index the Purch, Spring and Top Hat with a Sharpie. On some cars it can make realigning the mounting bolts alot easier.
The car that keeps on giving! Great job, love the string alignment. I use cad software to draw it out and you get the numbers and a simple drawing.
.. Well two days ago I lost the cooling down on my 1999 Acura... Instead of buying a new dorman which was basically all that is available... I went to a junkyard instead and paid $35 for a 2000 off of a Honda Accord... I have faith this is going to last longer than if I'd purchased a dorman
Highly recommended helicoil kits for thread repair 👍 The other "mechanic" should be ashamed.
Awesome job man, watching from the land down under 🦘🦘🍻🍻
My hats off to you, good job. With regards to the cam cover, repair the messed up securing bolts using a Helli coil or whatever thread repair kit that tickles you. Don't stop one foot short of doing it right.
Personally, I would have taken off the cam cover to adjust the belt in the first place, especially after noticing the sealant oozing out of the cover, and I would have made sure the cams where properly aligned before setting the timing, but I guess we all work differently, but regardless, great diagnostic process, and result.
I do enjoy watching your videos, I am a diagnostic engineer with many years of service, among other trades, its nice to see how other people do the job, and which track they go down, your use of the scope is always interesting, and I have tried a couple of things you have done, and had some success.
I also like the alldata,it is full of great knowledge, and information.
From UK.
You just can't kill that Volvo!!! Even the butcher and tow guy tried and it's still going! Ivan the bricklayer want's his string line back... 🤣
ha ha ..if you find it on the side of the road ... like I did twice .... it's yours !
Good money after bad.
Hallo Ivan, a bit late, but maybe it will help few volvo fans, there is a common mistake by assembly of the upper mounting of the shock absorber, maybe from the factory too, the rusted mat / cup is installed the other way around... the rusty part... (23:34) needs to be turned, so you have clearence of 3-4mm, and the rubber is not so stressed... Greetings from Slovakia... Great job with the diagnostics... :-)
The upper cam cover is bonded to the head with an anaerobic cement, not RTV. You put it on really thin with, basically, a fine foam paint roller. Then comes the 40-bazillion screws.
I'd be worried that the butcher shop used too much adhesive and some of the oil passages in the head are gooed shut. Especially considering the crusties on the right side of the head.
I guess I have to wait for the next installment of The BUTCHER SHOP Volvo...
First car Ive seen with a dedicated fan just to cool down the pcm, kinda neat.
I've seen some cars use the engine intake flow to keep the pcm cool by integrating the module into the airbox. Always thought that was cool. Seems like the vast majority of cars are just fine with the pcm being mounted somewhere not terribly hot under the hood, usually near the battery...or older cars where they just had the pcm inside the passenger cabin, which seems like the best place for it honestly.
It's hard to see why someone would just guess at connections and assembly details when we all have a camera in our pockets. It's essential for any kind of repair work you do when you don't do it everyday. Just to easy to take a quick photo
Ivan I'm wondering if you should measure gap from the rim? Because of tire bumps. Maybe use a block of wood to extend rim.
When I was service my Malibu. I noticed the same thing.
I found the lower control arms bent like those. I removed them. Took a heavy flat bar and straighten them out. Then stringed them. Just like you did. I was lucky. The rear came back to alignment.
Then 2 weeks later. Some shyt head stole my car and trashed it. My insurance totaled it out. So I came out even on my loss. I bought the car brand new in the summer of 2001. I drove it daily. Then my daughter drove it. It had 310k and was still going strong. I sure miss it though.
Looks like 'a book with no end' as we call it !
Oy Vey.. Very detailed Diag Ivan. Too bad the customer had to deal with such insane incompetence from past work and now towing. But with you expertise they are now on the road to recovery... Nice work
I’m wondering who really was hacking on it. I’ve seen some crap work but this is hard to swallow that any shop did this. Maybe the ice cream shop? Hopefully they didn’t actually do anything with the head. I’ve been self aligning pretty much forever. I always take the measurements from the rims, after verifying they are running true. Most tires, especially cheap ones are all over the place on the sidewalls. A very quick check for the steering wheel, just turn from stop to stop,preferably while suspended, note the turns and go back exactly half. But I’m fairly certain You knew that. Great stuff as always Ivan. Time to get back the blueing! 👍👍🇺🇸
I had to deal with one of these recently for a friend. No oil on the dipstick. I had to put in about 5 liters of oil to bring it up to max operating level on the dipstick. If the oil cap doesn't have the correct rubber gasket, the oil under pressure will run out from under that filler cap and under the plastic cover over the coils and plugs and create a lake of oil under there, including filling the holes where the spark plugs live, which can short out the plugs. The strut tops were also just as loose as the ones on your customer's vehicle. I did what I could and got it running, but told the owner to find a competent mechanic to work on it - no one can afford stealership prices for repair work. Check the oil daily on these things.
I really felt like that non-OEM spring compressor was going to explode in your face at some point while you were working with the strut cap. You must live a charmed life.
Great job, Ivan.
Ivan the reason why it is bent is because some tow truck driver used J-hook in the wrong place while the transmission was still in park or tie down was done wrong
We need to get you a nice shop with a lift. Keep up the great work. God Bless you and your Family
Ivan - thanks for sharing the old DIY wheel alignment - We did that back in the 1960's when we couldn't get to an alignment shop. In truth, we seldom took my vehicles in for alignment, as long as the tires wore mostly even. Also, tires only lasted around 20k miles. I really enjoy your work and videos.
Once I tried loosening the the shock nut when it was in my car and the cars weight on it, then I jacked up the car, decompressing the spring. Then I put in the new shock and spring in place, jacked up under the control arm and guided the shock shaft and spring in place.
Worked perfectly, no messing around with the spring compressors and saved a bit of time cause I didn't have to loosen the top mount.
Used to fix aircraft engines back in the late 70’s and when a thread stripped out we used to install a heli coil. If they are available and it was my car I would have gone that route. They were easy to install and approved for aircraft use so they would certainly be reliable for auto use.
Good job being a Volvo guy my self and a mechanic for 22 years iv come across the rocker cover bolt problem so many times being there a m7 metric, fine fred and have lock seal in them they alway mess up I always drill out every bolt and put a m8 coil in with new bolts works a treat every time
excellent video as as always, Ivan. love the diagnostics & commentary. -but what a mess those incompetent guys left you with!
Snow alignment!! Yes, snow! I did a very similar string alignment on a ‘64 Chevy 4X4, but preliminary to that (and with snow on the ground), found a ‘crab-walking’ condition that needed addressing first. The truck was a retired state hiway truck with a perfect body… EVERYTHING else was completely worn out. My favorite old school rebuild from back in the ‘70’s.
While I may have not watched this entire video, there's a few things that I'd like to point out. First of all, the power steering reservoir is molded in two halves. Generally, these start to fail at the seam. If yours is bulging in the middle, then you should replace it. Also, replacing the sealing ring under the oil cap will help as well. And as far as the valve assembly; they should have an anaerobic sealant, NOT an RTV sealant. Yes, there's a difference!
I wanted to note that the coolant reservoir cap should sit square to the engine bay - it's currently cockeyed.
I'd recommend replacement of the reservoir and cap, with Volvo parts.
I tried an AM cap, and it stripped the res. threads.
Cheers!
Owner is sure one lucky dude😊 he found luck by name of ivan after so much bad luck..congratulations ivan for resolving such a messed up job.cheers😊
haha... you're saying "no way...", I'm saying "never a doubt..." Great job as usual Ivan.
Assuming the front wheels haven't been crashed into the kerb, for the front wheel alignment, I made myself a stout U shaped timber frame wider than the track, with slotted uprights each end. Jack car wheels up both sides under the arms to just clear the ground. Then a longish (eight inches?) pointer of thread each side that can be adjusted in the slots to just touch the rear of the wheel rim at centre height. Tighten up the pointers. Carefully move the frame so pointers are now at the front of wheel rim. If alignment is correct, should be able to fit a matchstick in the gap. Then check steering wheel is positioned straight when going down the centre of smooth straight road.
OMG 38:20 ' ... a guy with an F150 and a trailer'.
The job's starting to make sense now.
Watching you carry out your diagnostic challenges is good, and interesting.
I have been paying attention to how you set you billing for jobs, and up until recently I had collated all the individual problems into one bill, but listening to you and how you work is different, and interesting, I have recently started to separate the jobs into one problem at a time, it does make sense, and for many years I have billed it as one job, covering all aspects of the car, ie, diagnostic, repair, and service, and so on, when I heard you discuss this on a video regarding a vehicle which was a non runner due to an engine swap, you diagnosed the issue, and got it running, and then moved onto a different job on the vehicle , and billed each job as what it was, not as a whole.
Although many times it makes sense to do multiple jobs at the same time, especially if you have something already dismantled, a bit like dealing with a cam belt problem, and changing water pump while it is apart, this is something I always do, and never fit a new belt without fitting a new pump, if driven by the cam belt, but in reality it is a separate job, and should be charged as an extra job.
It is so difficult to make a choice on what to charge for, and how much.
In most cases if I can not fix, or find a fault, I will not charge, thankfully this very rarely happens...
Keep up the good work, and keep that camera rolling.
With the volvo xc40, I am bemused as to why the car was allowed to leave the other workshop in that state, its places like that which give reputable places a bad name.
One last comment, I totally agree with you regarding aftermarket trash parts, especially electronic sensors..
Although I will use big branded equipment on occasions, like, bosch, valeo etc, in most cases they make the parts for the vehicle manufacturers in the first place, but don't have the big prices the dealers have.
These two videos have been the best I have seen. Excellent work. Looking forward to the conclusion, if there ever is one.
I found using those spring compressors is they travel around the spring.
Take some emery cloth, double it over so the grit is touching the spring and compressor. No more sliding.
@21:27, the whole spring assembly jumps up about 1/4 inch while you are turned away just after you say the word, "explode". I probably would have required some clean pants.
HOLY CRAP! I keep telling people research your car and mechanic even if you don't do your own work. I now wish I videoed the 1996 corvette I repaired. 4 shops couldn't repair crank no start. after heater core replacement. They butchered the dash and harness but I returned it running again. I wouldn't be surprised if you find more damage.
I found myself putting my hand in front of my face and looking away when you did that strut work. I’d of strapped that spring and strut to the black pipe behind it, or something else sturdy. You’re a risk taker lol
Ivan, perhaps the Helicoil thread repair method is the way to go on the cam cover. Eric O has a few videos demonstrating the technique.
I'm sure Ivan knows it, but he's trying to get away w/o removing the camshaft cover. That's a time consuming job, because the helicoils need to go in the cylinder hear.
@@johnnyblue4799 Good point, Johnny. I didn't know that the cam cover R/R was such an ordeal.
@@vpimike2646 Yeah.. that thing is not the usual rocker cover with only a rubber gasket. It actually keeps the camshafts in place. If only a couple bolts are sheared it's probably going to be ok, otherwise it should be properly repaired so it won't warp.
Man this guy got screwed all the way around Ivan. Hopefully you will be able to sort out the valve cover leaks and the bent rear link and with a 4 Wheel alignment. Looking forward to part 3.
It seems Ivan's shop is about to become a sanctuary for abused Volvos! 😀
Ha I got two more towed in after this one 🤣
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics It's raining with beached whales!
Great job Ivan. Those spring compressors are called "The Widow Makers." The proper (floor mounted) units are not very expensive. The initial outlay would be well worth it in the long run.
Yeah, I think it is best to invest in either a standing hydraulic spring compressor if you have the space or an impact rated mechanical one (a bit more expensive but fits in a compact case).
Safety chains is recommended
Tell me you didn't listen to what he said without telling me you didn't listen to what he said.
You can get a wall mounted manual strut tool for a couple hundred dollars, they're no that expensive.
@@killer2600 Even if you do one strut, the widowmakers are not worth the new whole in your head.
Taking-on a hacked-up unknown mess such as this, where no assumptions can be made, is one of the most difficult types of repair work. Ivan deserves top respect for this.
This Volvo had no shortage of surprises 😂
Jacket and hat! Gotta be up early for that! Nice catch! Its a battle to stay out of the owners crosshairs for things you had no control over.
Glad I’m not the only one to have a mini panic attack right before the “moment of truth” turn of the key!
"WOW" Ivan where did he take it to the first time to fix it????? But I love the way you are finding and fixing it.....
Ivan, I wish you are here in Texas. you are the top 1 percent technician.
This video is a bit old, but I just had to say, you are a very brave man. Seeing how the other shop could not even do basic things right I would never have been able to trust the job they did on the cylinder head. Not in a million years. Did they clean this using a steel brush, if they even cleaned it at all? Did they torque it to spec? Did they reuse the stretch bolts? I would have ripped this engine apart and started from scratch. It's pure luck that no valves was damaged, it could easily have been more than 2 teeth's on the timing belt.
How is this shop even operational? They don't seam to know anything about engines.
Glad you exposed the potential for towing damage.
Ivan, I had one of those spring compressors let loose while I had the whole assembly in my lap on the shop floor under partial pressure. Bought a better one after that. Be careful. About whether this car can be trusted or not. Not yet, not for me! Good Luck! Thanks for Sharing! 🙃🙂
Gotta feel for that unfortunate owner getting poor service from previous mechanic(s) and a tow driver. As a math guy (MS in math/stats), I was giddy seeing you bust out the trig calcs! Looking forward to part three, Ivan!
I had a 2001 XC 70 one of the best cars I have owned. Loved it.
I sure wish I could buy you a safe spring compressor (like the other gentlemen said very scary for me also )
Don’t want you to get hurt, got to watch pine hollow . Please stay safe
Thanks for saving yet another volvo. In my book, the other shop is responsible for all labor associated costs and parts. I would permit myself to recommend that you would avoid fixing suspension and related items(leave it for Eric O). It requires a ton of specialty tools and is associated with a great risk of bodily harm. Time spent on alignment alone was probably close to 1+hour. Any reasonable person knows that you are PHAD and not PHA suspension and breaks. So it is customers problems after you showed him that car is starting. Let him go to Goodyear and for $110 have alignment with 1 year warranty.
Most impressive journey and it’s not over yet! Looking forward to finale…or?! Thanks for taking us along for the ride 👍🏼!