I have the P7000S,. Sent it for repair and the total cost was $400. Three times the so-called technician repaired the amp. On the third try, after he said "It's working perfectly", I connected the speakers and turned the amp on, then ........... Pouff ...... Flames came out of the fan port and also made a loud snap. It is extremely hard to find a good technician who will charge a reasonable rate to fix amplifiers. I own a medium sized sound and lighting company and have over 30 amplifiers. They do break down eventually but is would be nice to be able to overhaul the components that wear over time and end up having an almost new amp again. You make it look so easy, and I would be happy to give you $150 or $200 for the job you just did, if I had the same problem. Cheers.
Respect your repair skills,hobby en knowlodge. One more thing i have to mention. The brown with silver colour amp next to your monitor was my first amp :) I'm so glad to see that amp again. Respect
Wow, what a good tutorial. I must say you fixed everything under the sun and load testing the amp was a real test not just testing voltages. It seems strange that the ic's would be effected since they typically run at low voltages. Too bad you skipped the load test and did not show amps with a multimeter. Big thumbs up.
Those two resistors you've replaced are there to *pre-charge the capacitors, limiting the **_inrush current_* during power-up. They released a "puff" of smoke because you replaced the old resistors with the wrong type and they don't have enough thermal mass to withstand the power surge they are being subjected to. This also poses a fire hazard.
I just recently purchased one of the P2500S amps. I believe it and the P3500S have linear power supplies instead of switching supplies. I guess due to the lower power requirements, it was not necessary to have a switching supply. I'm kind of glad that I went that route. Not that I don't trust switching supplies, but I guess an old school linear supply is easier to fix if something goes wrong down the road. Hopefully you have not had to fix many of those ;)
I love amp videos. Actually gave me the motivation to crack open my Marantz RS2253 and figure out what's going on with the damned speaker switching function.
You've done a smashing job, well done mate :-) I know the feeling when you have to plug a switchmode supply in after repair, i go over it in my head again, just to make sure i have covered all the boom parts :-) I hate switchmode psu's lol, the ones in satalite boxes i hate the most. Stick two wire wound pot resistors in, it's your amp so it would not dare to go wrong again :-)
I have the same Realtek based onboard audio on my PC and it really is very handy. I also use the blue input audio jack for running another pare ot speakers and i don't have any problem with it. Nice video, keep them cumming .
An interesting analysis; you could ask why Yamaha used general purpose 85° C rated electrolytic capacitors in the power supply of their professional equipment, but I think you are playing safe by replacing them with the low ESR, 105°C types, for very small extra expense, but with much more reliability. A big problem is the gradual degradation of the general purpose types with the off/on cycles, which does not show any physical alteration of the component..
good video. I love it when people throw stuff a way when all it is some times is a small fix. I have a apc battery back up I need to fix I poped two of the mosfets. replaced them and it still do work I think I messed something else up. because it will charge but when I unplug it to test it tries but it turns off so I might have other mosfets bad so I will order the rest and replace them all.
It's just being used in place of the normal line cord. It's a basic 1:1 ratio transformer, with one winding connected to the wall socket, and the other connected to the input of the power supply.
you know what, I think your just as good a uxwbill. If i get to know you better, I need to talk to you about something. It's not bad, just some things not to many people know when it comes to fixing things. ~R
Ya, it's just the silicon coating on the resistors. Mouser has the correct ones now, and I'll be installing them when I rebuild the output boards in a week or two.
I don't normally use the stabilization... Is it enabled on this video when you watch it? It seems normal on my end. Though I was a bit shaky during the actual filming.
I have the schematic which includes service info such as voltage measurements and part numbers. It's quite detailed. I think my service guy conectected two cables in the wrong place before i got it back. I have another identicle amp and when I copied the wire configuration the amp powered up. The second amp has come in handy for comparisons.
Yep, I think it's from 2003 or 2004. And I'm pretty sure they still make this model. Aside from the cheap caps, they are pretty good amps. The resistors seem to smoke because of the silicon coating. Nonetheless, I'm going to find a set of ceramic ones that fit as soon as I can. It's hard to find them in radial lead configuration, so I'll probably have to use axial ones mounted on end.
I have a question about these amps. I bought a p7000s and when it turns on both the protection light and the power light come on after about 3 seconds the protection light turns off. I also have a p5000s that turn on the same way. What my question is why does the green power led flicker and is dimmer than on the 5000. Also the the Ys Processing light doesn't come on at all but it works as I can hear it in the speakers.
The amp will probably be a spare, but I'm not sure yet. I doubt it will go in my main system though. I don't use PXE, but I might experiment with it eventually.
Would you purchase a motherboard always with a realtech sound processing chip on it say over a creative soundblaster pci varient? I was wondering if it's even worth the extra $ for the high end creative cards over just on-board version like you use, is it worth it? Cheers and awesome video. I realise back in the day on-board audio use to sound crap as you could hear processing across the tracks almost from the motherboard.
I haven't used a creative card since the Audigy days. I got sick of their crappy drivers and lack of audio headroom. If I were to use a separate card these days, it would probably be an HT Omega. But the Realtek ALC889 onboard chip is still pretty darn good for most uses.
since you repair receivers do you know how to make yamaha rx v795a screen brighter or replace the screen since i been wanting to know how to make the screen have more light ?
I think it was left running 24/7 for its entire life, so there was probably way more than the rated hours for cap life on it. Nonetheless, I'm surprised they used general purpose caps. Crown did the same thing in some of theirs, including the K series.
Do you have the Realtek driver installed? The built in Windows driver won't have that functionality. With mine, I just right click on the picture of each jack, and there is an option called Connector Retasking.
Are you a electrical engineer? Its cool how much you know about electronics, would you ever be interested in making a video on helping people like me who aren't doing electrical engineering or similar courses, to learn how to make things?
Looking at the video (round 14.40) the puff of smoke doesn't look like it comes from the resistors, but something about 3 inches closer to the front panel.... might be owrth alook? (might not!!) :)
What parts do you need? I get most of mine from Mouser Electronics. If you need a whole board, you might be able to get one on Ebay, or even from Yamaha themselves.
A Maxxarcade-video gets an instant like from me :) Nice repair! I would have loved to see, how you measured those IGBTs and if you could do it in circuit. I think I saw some diodes in front of them? Anything to do with those IGBTs?
Dear Sir, do you think you could do a video on testing opto couplers, and testing a switching IC. I have a TTL tester from Radio Shack 1979 never learned to use it, would this be a good tester for IC Chip.
I'm not too familiar with many of the new light weight style amps. My favorites are the Crown K series, Crest Audio CA series, and some of the older QSC stuff.
Hi, I the amplifier was returned from the service guy with literally nothing done to it and i was told it was unrepairable. I have since started work on the amp myself and have got it powering up with a current limiting bulb in series. There seems to be a fault now on channel A. I have located 1 blown SMD resistor and 2 blown transistors which are both now replaced. I have today found beside the blown resistor a blown SMD transistor and on removal it was cracked. Any thoughts?
I haven't been able to find any service info on that amp, so you might be better off sending it to EV themselves if you can. That's a pretty large amp, so it should be worth getting fixed.
What happens when you test caps of higher uf rating and the esr meter go's off the chart .How can you tell if when your testing larger caps that there good with the esr meter ?.Just wondering .How would test jigher rated filter caps they hold a larger charge too .Maybe you can give me some pointers to finding bad caps in my power supply in my marantz sr-18 ex reciever .
@Maxxarcade Ok thanks for the info. I am probably going to change motherboards in my Machine to go to Mini-ITX, i'll keep that in mind. BTW Love yor videos man. Greeting from Germany.
This amp seems like a POS if you ask me for having all those bad caps and it's not even 10 years old. I'm glad you're willing to make it better than factory.
Do you have the full service manual, or just the schematic? I probably won't be able to help a whole lot without seeing the amp myself, but I'm curious what parts they used.
I just use an ohm meter/diode test like when testing standard transistors. Those big diodes are dampers I think. I'd have to look at the schematic again to verify.
hello i happen to have the same one and im fixing my board but when i bought it it was missings some parts. iw as wondering where i can get full schematics on my amp .thanks in advance
Hmmm, I saw the smoke emanating from the amp, so why the resistors produced the smoke? did you repair them? is it probably an another component which made the resistor overheat and smokes?
What brand/series caps do you advise for replacing the ones in a qsc rmx2450? I feel its lacking some punch and its quite muddy, plus im noticing while powering it up it unmutes too soon giving the POP sound.. really need to get one of those esr meters, oh and an osciloscope as well n_n Pleeeaaseee upload more repair and audio systems vids ;)
The Rmx 2450 is old school. High quality, low esr caps for the reservoir caps are not really required, as good amplifier design with a good PSRR., or power supply rejection ratio, will reject any audible power supply noise. Use 105 C Caps, Rubycon or other inexpensive brand is fine there. All other smaller cap values, weather in the power supply or not should be high quality audio grade nichicon good to 105C.
Hi i changed the voltage (stupidly) to 110v. I live in Europe and it should be on 240v i've turned it back but i'm sure i've blown something. Do you know what i should be looking to replace now i've opened it up??
After change back to 240Volts then try to switch ON the unit. If the unit can't power up then maybe the fuse is burned, after replacing the fuse no power then most likely the transformer primary coil may be open circuit (need to open the unit and confirm). Note: Make sure you're trained to handle / repair electronic device, if not then send to repair shop for repair.
That being said, in engineering circles is pretty common knowledge that, very often, the silicon parts WILL sacrifice themselves to save the fuse (ie. they go "pop" before the fuse has a chance to do so itself).
Im woundering where these amp came from and wha the hell was it running to get so messed up? I love the P series amps they are pretty bad ass I just cant believe how much is wrong with that one.
i have a question about a car amplifier that i got for free which is dead. It had an 10 volt DC output hum on the two channels and bridged is not noticable but no output whatsoever. it only happens when i wire up a sound device like my phone. its an cheapo car Amp. if you have any ideas let me know and i would appreciatie it alot :D
Hi Maxx, very nice vid! I got also a problem with my yamaha. Where can i find the schematics? Or can you send it to me? I would be very greateful! Thanks
Hi there have been watching your videos and am truely impressed! I just got an electrovoice Q1212 power amplifier from ebay and it arrived working but would go into protection mode or bang out the speakers when moved. The PSU just smoked and the internal fuse has gone. Does this sound repairable? It was one of the disc capacitors in the PSU that smoked for a second then the fuse blew. I have a local guy who is going to have a look at it but you seem like an amplifier genius! Robert
sir my name is Sandeep , sir one question ,why use high power amplifier s each channel voltage are one is high another one is low voltage how it can handle the correct loard,example, one side voltage is +100v /0/-55v each channel pls help me sir
I have the P7000S,. Sent it for repair and the total cost was $400. Three times the so-called technician repaired the amp. On the third try, after he said "It's working perfectly", I connected the speakers and turned the amp on, then ........... Pouff ...... Flames came out of the fan port and also made a loud snap. It is extremely hard to find a good technician who will charge a reasonable rate to fix amplifiers. I own a medium sized sound and lighting company and have over 30 amplifiers. They do break down eventually but is would be nice to be able to overhaul the components that wear over time and end up having an almost new amp again. You make it look so easy, and I would be happy to give you $150 or $200 for the job you just did, if I had the same problem. Cheers.
Respect your repair skills,hobby en knowlodge.
One more thing i have to mention.
The brown with silver colour amp next to your monitor was my first amp :)
I'm so glad to see that amp again.
Respect
Wow, what a good tutorial. I must say you fixed everything under the sun and load testing the amp was a real test not just testing voltages. It seems strange that the ic's would be effected since they typically run at low voltages. Too bad you skipped the load test and did not show amps with a multimeter. Big thumbs up.
Those two resistors you've replaced are there to *pre-charge the capacitors, limiting the **_inrush current_* during power-up. They released a "puff" of smoke because you replaced the old resistors with the wrong type and they don't have enough thermal mass to withstand the power surge they are being subjected to. This also poses a fire hazard.
I just recently purchased one of the P2500S amps. I believe it and the P3500S have linear power supplies instead of switching supplies. I guess due to the lower power requirements, it was not necessary to have a switching supply. I'm kind of glad that I went that route. Not that I don't trust switching supplies, but I guess an old school linear supply is easier to fix if something goes wrong down the road. Hopefully you have not had to fix many of those ;)
YAMAHA HAS ALWAYS HAD GREAT SOUND. CRYSTAL CLEAR.. I REALLY ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS MAXXARCADE. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK.
Thank you for sharing your experience, I learned quite a bit from your videos so far 😊 the amp sounds really good, I am impressed!
It's good to hear the end result after plenty of work, parts are fitted.
I love amp videos. Actually gave me the motivation to crack open my Marantz RS2253 and figure out what's going on with the damned speaker switching function.
love when the manuals are complete crap and do nothing for you. nice video hope to see more!
You've done a smashing job, well done mate :-)
I know the feeling when you have to plug a switchmode supply in after repair, i go over it in my head again, just to make sure i have covered all the boom parts :-)
I hate switchmode psu's lol, the ones in satalite boxes i hate the most.
Stick two wire wound pot resistors in, it's your amp so it would not dare to go wrong again :-)
I have the same Realtek based onboard audio on my PC and it really is very handy. I also use the blue input audio jack for running another pare ot speakers and i don't have any problem with it. Nice video, keep them cumming .
An interesting analysis; you could ask why Yamaha used general purpose 85° C rated
electrolytic capacitors in the power supply of their professional equipment, but I think
you are playing safe by replacing them with the low ESR, 105°C types, for very small
extra expense, but with much more reliability. A big problem is the gradual degradation
of the general purpose types with the off/on cycles, which does not show any physical
alteration of the component..
good video. I love it when people throw stuff a way when all it is some times is a small fix. I have a apc battery back up I need to fix I poped two of the mosfets. replaced them and it still do work I think I messed something else up. because it will charge but when I unplug it to test it tries but it turns off so I might have other mosfets bad so I will order the rest and replace them all.
It's just being used in place of the normal line cord. It's a basic 1:1 ratio transformer, with one winding connected to the wall socket, and the other connected to the input of the power supply.
you know what, I think your just as good a uxwbill. If i get to know you better, I need to talk to you about something. It's not bad, just some things not to many people know when it comes to fixing things.
~R
Ya, it's just the silicon coating on the resistors. Mouser has the correct ones now, and I'll be installing them when I rebuild the output boards in a week or two.
I don't normally use the stabilization... Is it enabled on this video when you watch it? It seems normal on my end. Though I was a bit shaky during the actual filming.
The service manual was an adventure, but it was definitely better than nothing :-)
Hello, i am trying to fix same model, could you share with me service manual would be interesting to read how correctly look problem by this manual.
I have learned a lot from your videos. THANKS!!! I have since repaired several LCD TV's with bad caps and no test equipment other than my eyes.....
I have the schematic which includes service info such as voltage measurements and part numbers. It's quite detailed. I think my service guy conectected two cables in the wrong place before i got it back. I have another identicle amp and when I copied the wire configuration the amp powered up. The second amp has come in handy for comparisons.
Great videos about amplifiers and electronics of course. :)
Yep, I think it's from 2003 or 2004. And I'm pretty sure they still make this model. Aside from the cheap caps, they are pretty good amps.
The resistors seem to smoke because of the silicon coating. Nonetheless, I'm going to find a set of ceramic ones that fit as soon as I can. It's hard to find them in radial lead configuration, so I'll probably have to use axial ones mounted on end.
I have a question about these amps. I bought a p7000s and when it turns on both the protection light and the power light come on after about 3 seconds the protection light turns off. I also have a p5000s that turn on the same way. What my question is why does the green power led flicker and is dimmer than on the 5000. Also the the Ys Processing light doesn't come on at all but it works as I can hear it in the speakers.
The amp will probably be a spare, but I'm not sure yet. I doubt it will go in my main system though.
I don't use PXE, but I might experiment with it eventually.
Would you purchase a motherboard always with a realtech sound processing chip on it say over a creative soundblaster pci varient? I was wondering if it's even worth the extra $ for the high end creative cards over just on-board version like you use, is it worth it? Cheers and awesome video. I realise back in the day on-board audio use to sound crap as you could hear processing across the tracks almost from the motherboard.
I haven't used a creative card since the Audigy days. I got sick of their crappy drivers and lack of audio headroom.
If I were to use a separate card these days, it would probably be an HT Omega. But the Realtek ALC889 onboard chip is still pretty darn good for most uses.
since you repair receivers do you know how to make yamaha rx v795a screen brighter or replace the screen since i been wanting to know how to make the screen have more light ?
I think it was left running 24/7 for its entire life, so there was probably way more than the rated hours for cap life on it. Nonetheless, I'm surprised they used general purpose caps. Crown did the same thing in some of theirs, including the K series.
Usually at the manufacturer's website, if not Google.
Do you have the Realtek driver installed? The built in Windows driver won't have that functionality. With mine, I just right click on the picture of each jack, and there is an option called Connector Retasking.
Can you explain how you have your isolating transformer wired ?
They are from THX certified Frazier cinema surround speaker cabinets. I think Eminence makes the woofers, and Philips makes the tweeters.
Are you a electrical engineer? Its cool how much you know about electronics, would you ever be interested in making a video on helping people like me who aren't doing electrical engineering or similar courses, to learn how to make things?
Looking at the video (round 14.40) the puff of smoke doesn't look like it comes from the resistors, but something about 3 inches closer to the front panel.... might be owrth alook? (might not!!) :)
Maxxarcade AND uxwbill? Happiness achieved!
What parts do you need? I get most of mine from Mouser Electronics. If you need a whole board, you might be able to get one on Ebay, or even from Yamaha themselves.
A Maxxarcade-video gets an instant like from me :) Nice repair! I would have loved to see, how you measured those IGBTs and if you could do it in circuit. I think I saw some diodes in front of them? Anything to do with those IGBTs?
Electronic doctor. You are amazing.
I miss you vids man
Dear Sir, do you think you could do a video on testing opto couplers, and testing a switching IC.
I have a TTL tester from Radio Shack 1979 never learned to use it, would this be a good tester for IC Chip.
I'm not too familiar with many of the new light weight style amps. My favorites are the Crown K series, Crest Audio CA series, and some of the older QSC stuff.
Hi,
I the amplifier was returned from the service guy with literally nothing done to it and i was told it was unrepairable. I have since started work on the amp myself and have got it powering up with a current limiting bulb in series. There seems to be a fault now on channel A. I have located 1 blown SMD resistor and 2 blown transistors which are both now replaced. I have today found beside the blown resistor a blown SMD transistor and on removal it was cracked. Any thoughts?
It was the resistors, I watched more closely the next time I cold-started it.
I haven't been able to find any service info on that amp, so you might be better off sending it to EV themselves if you can. That's a pretty large amp, so it should be worth getting fixed.
i need to know how to do this. have a camera battery charger that messed up. dumb and tried to solder with still plugged in abd biw don't work.
How do you solve the problem of the smoky resistor? I have the same problem.
My friend, you know the voltaje for the amp boards?.
I know the low voltaje this is +15 -15, but i need the high, can you help me..
What happens when you test caps of higher uf rating and the esr meter go's off the chart .How can you tell if when your testing larger caps that there good with the esr meter ?.Just wondering .How would test jigher rated filter caps they hold a larger charge too .Maybe you can give me some pointers to finding bad caps in my power supply in my marantz sr-18 ex reciever .
Where do u get your cap tester
@Maxxarcade Ok thanks for the info. I am probably going to change motherboards in my Machine to go to Mini-ITX, i'll keep that in mind. BTW Love yor videos man. Greeting from Germany.
@Maxxarcade is that Audio-Connection thing possible with the Realtek ALC892 as well? Because I can't find an Option in the driver menu
This amp seems like a POS if you ask me for having all those bad caps and it's not even 10 years old. I'm glad you're willing to make it better than factory.
Do you have the full service manual, or just the schematic? I probably won't be able to help a whole lot without seeing the amp myself, but I'm curious what parts they used.
Well maybe i could use the mic in from the fron pannel? Is it independent from the one in the back? :-?
those speakers sound sooo good
Are you going to use that in your PA rack. Also do you use PXE boot in your servers?
Can you make a video of wiring conmection of this pwr amp
I just use an ohm meter/diode test like when testing standard transistors. Those big diodes are dampers I think. I'd have to look at the schematic again to verify.
Nice vid!
Why did you change the "2 chips"? Are they hard to test or commonly fail?
wow sounds pretty darn good.
Yep, an early 80's Crest amp, a Harman Kardon, and maybe some others.
hello i happen to have the same one and im fixing my board but when i bought it it was missings some parts. iw as wondering where i can get full schematics on my amp .thanks in advance
i have the schematic sir..
How old are the batteries?
Buenas tardes ... tengo un problema ya le cambie los mosfet y todo lo dañado pero el voltaje de salida no activa me puedes dar el plano q tienes hay
@Maxxarcade I have the official Realtek Drivers from the ASrock website installed (my motherboard is a ASrocj P97 Pro3 SE), but there is no option.
Where do you get all of your service manuals from?
Which board is it? I'd love to get 2 outs Well i could with mine but then I'd have to lose my mic in and that's not possible.
Hmmm, I saw the smoke emanating from the amp, so why the resistors produced the smoke? did you repair them? is it probably an another component which made the resistor overheat and smokes?
Alexandros Sotiropoulos I have since replaced the resistors. They were just the wrong type for the application.
hmmm, so it works ok now, it is a good amplifier.
from a local electronic shop you can find them easily, but there are others more special
hey my power acoustik demon1800w car amp connection area got wet,i tested the outputs and everything iz ok with that but it come on when it wants too
It's possible that only certain chipsets supported that. I manly use Gigabyte boards, so I know a lot of those do.
Bos dimana yang ada jual lit powr suplay nya itu. Saya mau beli
Nice work!
Hi Max, What's the name of the website where you download your service manual? Thanks for responds. Great job
+Wild Hunter Normally I just search on Google, or go to Hifi Engine if it's a home amp.
Finally again another video that was the reason that i took a subscription on your channel !
Thanks got that pm sent of to you! Appreciate the help!
Where do you get these service manuals from?
Google is your friend ;) lmgtfy.com/?q=p7000s+service+manual
hey what speakers are
your worktable speakers ? thanx :)
What brand/series caps do you advise for replacing the ones in a qsc rmx2450? I feel its lacking some punch and its quite muddy, plus im noticing while powering it up it unmutes too soon giving the POP sound.. really need to get one of those esr meters, oh and an osciloscope as well n_n
Pleeeaaseee upload more repair and audio systems vids ;)
The Rmx 2450 is old school. High quality, low esr caps for the reservoir caps are not really required, as good amplifier design with a good PSRR., or power supply rejection ratio, will reject any audible power supply noise. Use 105 C Caps, Rubycon or other inexpensive brand is fine there.
All other smaller cap values, weather in the power supply or not should be high quality audio grade nichicon good to 105C.
Bird and audio channel hm i see, thanks alot for your answer ;)
Cool! Live Magic Smoke..Dude thats fabulusssss.
did it fix the amp?
Bos punya saya suply repairnya rusak gak bisa dibenari.saya mau beli suply repair dimana yang ada dijualny tolong lnformasiny
These speakers play pretty well what this model is
Hi i changed the voltage (stupidly) to 110v. I live in Europe and it should be on 240v i've turned it back but i'm sure i've blown something. Do you know what i should be looking to replace now i've opened it up??
After change back to 240Volts then try to switch ON the unit. If the unit can't power up then maybe the fuse is burned, after replacing the fuse no power then most likely the transformer primary coil may be open circuit (need to open the unit and confirm). Note: Make sure you're trained to handle / repair electronic device, if not then send to repair shop for repair.
That being said, in engineering circles is pretty common knowledge that, very often, the silicon parts WILL sacrifice themselves to save the fuse (ie. they go "pop" before the fuse has a chance to do so itself).
Im woundering where these amp came from and wha the hell was it running to get so messed up? I love the P series amps they are pretty bad ass I just cant believe how much is wrong with that one.
What? No turkey carving tutorial? Haha! Happy Thanksgiving.
i have a question about a car amplifier that i got for free which is dead. It had an 10 volt DC output hum on the two channels and bridged is not noticable but no output whatsoever. it only happens when i wire up a sound device like my phone. its an cheapo car Amp. if you have any ideas let me know and i would appreciatie it alot :D
its an US blaster USB 3350
+GeekTechReviews when i hook up an speaker its almost goed into protection (power light dimming)
GeekTechReviews it has blown power transistors replace those and it works fine
Hi Maxx,
very nice vid! I got also a problem with my yamaha. Where can i find the schematics? Or can you send it to me? I would be very greateful!
Thanks
Hi there have been watching your videos and am truely impressed!
I just got an electrovoice Q1212 power amplifier from ebay and it arrived working but would go into protection mode or bang out the speakers when moved. The PSU just smoked and the internal fuse has gone. Does this sound repairable? It was one of the disc capacitors in the PSU that smoked for a second then the fuse blew. I have a local guy who is going to have a look at it but you seem like an amplifier genius!
Robert
On my main page, click About, and there should be a send message option in there.
they are brand new. I acidently shorted it on day and the mosfet blew. so it might have blew the other mosfets. so I orrdered more of them.
Why use everywhere a nichicon of the same
serie, while it's a bad choice on other places...?
sir my name is Sandeep , sir one question ,why use high power amplifier s each channel voltage are one is high another one is low voltage how it can handle the correct loard,example, one side voltage is +100v /0/-55v each channel pls help me sir
awesome video bro, did you go to school to learn all this?? r u an engineer in electronics?
your the best bro
Where can I find free schematics online? thanks
the fans don't run till the amp gets hot these are continuously variable fans....they may barley nudge when you bump the power on.
How old is this video? I couldn't help but notice you were using winamp.
you are so lucky, I find lots of cool stuf like power amps on ebay but they are all from usa, it gets way tooooo expensive to ship to Europe =/
What name. Of masireing capacitor
I need this meter