Thanks for this.. i've started cleaning boards with an ultrasonic cleaner and then with alcohol and i thought there was something wrong with my ultrasonic cleaner/solution. Guess i'll air dry it from now on
I was kind of thinking that too. Problem for me is that Ethanol which is essentially Grain Alcohol in my country is sold with added red dye. As they do not want people consuming it without paying a lot of Tax for it (I hate the EU). Methyl alcohol does not need that because it is harmful and not consumable. Also has a less pleasant smell than Ethyl Alcohol (ethanol). As for Rosin flux, removing that (depends a bit on what type) is best done with lacquer thinner. Most use Isopropyl alcohol which is in between the two but has a bit of a tendency to streak the pcb or soldermask.
@@xConundrumx that's super odd, 96% ethanol is sold in Spain in every pharmacy and supermarket at about €4 a litre. So no point in having to look around for isopropyl, which is a lot less readily available. And I thought it was the case everywhere in the continent... Weird reason to hate the EU xD
@@alicewyan it's the whole money grabbing mentality behind it that bugs me. It's so pervasive it just is borderline insane. For instance I got some chinese made PCB's a while ago from a well known chinese outfit that has this running promotion where you can get 10 boards for 2 dollars. I needed some and figured let's give it a go and sure enough amazing quality (even got 11 boards) and only 2 dollars. Until it got to my country ... and they wanted 40+ euros import tax.
@@alicewyanand there is the problem, they get really testy about that here in Belgium. Mind you it's a hit and miss thing. Sometimes they can't be bothered and are just lazy. But more often than not they will suck what they can out of ya. I assume they also counted the shipping that time in the value, or maybe thought it was a fake price since it was so low (which we all know chinese vendors do often, put a fake price on the transport bill for that purpose) ... Whatever the case it is a frequent struggle. Waiting on a frequency generator right now that I bought for 50 dollars, but shipping was well over a 100. So it will be fun to see what they try to charge me this time.
Believe what you want! If you don’t clean the flux from the board, at the very least you will leave a magnet for dirt and other things which will, in time, become a headache. It is just poor workmanship and aggravated by a dose of lack of pride in your work to leave it on there. I can’t believe anyone would! Unbelievable!🙄
For the sake of your sanity, don't open most consumer electronics and appliances, as the vast majority leave the flux residue. (Computer stuff seems to be the only meaningful exception.)
Antonio Tejada, Mr Antonio, it may sound like an overreaction, but I have done work where people’s butts were on the line if I did not give a whole lot of a damn. I am quite familiar with the lack of concern for quality of work. Mass production is most inclined to let things go. In the military where I received my training, your failure could wind up getting your coworkers hurt or worse, killed. Failure is no option in that case. I recognize their focus is output not quality of work. It is sad, but everyone or business has their ideas. I will not sacrifice my work for numbers Antonio. I give my all for my customers and anyone I work for. That’s how I roll!
Mark Philpot Oh, don’t get me wrong, I’m a persnickety pedant when it comes to what I do, so I totally understand. I’ve had to teach myself that in many situations, “good enough really is good enough”, and more frequently, “good enough is all others will allow without getting mad at me”...
Antonio Tejada, when you work for others or when the company philosophy is such that you must adjust your work towards that end, the choice is clear. I completely understand that. I have had to suffer for my quality stance in times past. Thing is, if you don’t step up your game, the competition will run over you. If you aren’t willing to suffer quality, you have to learn how to increase your working pace. Some are not willing to do that. Those are the ones who end up on the outside looking in!
My skills are fine. I've soldered since the 70's with 60/40 then in the mid 80's when lead free came out. AFAIC 63/37 is the very best, solder with lower heat on heat sensitive SMD and better results. I worked soldering industrial and worked in prototyping in all areas of soldering.
@WV Rick, The 70s and 80s is where leaded solder belong. Now in the 2000s we have to use lead-free solders. Industry has no choice; lead is banned in electronic goods. Sure, lead in the solder made it easy, and I do miss it for what you could do, but now you've no choice but to improve you skills and find other techniques that work with lead-free. For rework SMT I find using a heat plate under the board just to lift the "ambient" temperature of the board makes a huge difference.
Leaded solder will be around until it's not. Sure the industry has to use lead free because they are forced too. You can still use leaded for repair and prototyping. Anyone serious about soldering boards should preheat. A plate is ok but not necessary, I sometimes use a reflow oven but mostly hand solder or hot air station. I get a lot of redo work from poor soldering (lead free) and heat damaged components (the higher temp lead free needs to melt). I am certified in all type soldering but choose leaded.
You're making a bad choice. Especially to mix alloys. If you're "certified in all type(s) (of) soldering" you should have the skills to be able to use lead-free easily enough, without damaging sensitive components. I used to think I'd just use leaded solder for prototypes as it's easier, but without even thinking about it I never did. I use lead-free on my prototypes. Prototypes that include QFN packages and those are always difficult! So from prototypes to production to rework, it can all be done with lead-free solder and good quality and safe fluxes. And you can also have the right fume extraction for all of those processes too. My clients don't want lead in their products, even if it's a prototype, they want lead-free. If you're unable to do that then I'd encourage you to skill-up so that you can. I've created a tiny bit of scrap practicing, but it never went to waste as I learned much better ways to work with the solder and improved my skills further.
@@alexeyk8460 good choice my russian commrade!. The yellow kaina is fake btw. The white & blue kaina is good. But you can find good quality Electrolyte & Kester solder if you know the official distributors at very low price. Btw I recommend mechanic or amtech gel fluxs & solder pastes, works great (always 63/37 + organic / no clean type flux). 99% IPA from Fischer chemicals is lab grade & works wonders.
Are you facing problem cleaning the white residues after assembly? We have cleaning solution which cleans Flux and White Residues. marketing@schservices.com
Well my Indian friend I was just like you when I started soldering!. The cheap solder and flux paste (Starts with Q or something) is a nightmare. I had a list of solder & flux manufacturers who supply for Defense factories like BEL, BHEL, etc, they're quality is far better (on par with kester, we used kester solder though) than any consumer grade chinese or Indian counterparts or these cheap private marketers like the one below. But you obviously can't buy them online. As for the easy stuff you can buy, go with 1. Kester, NS, BT, mechanic or kaina (white blue) brand for both solder & flux. 2. 99% 1-Propanol from Fischer Chemicals (used in defense factories). Otherwise I recommend you go to lab equipment wholesalers to get quality IPA. You can also use 99% acetone (lab grade). There also specific cleaning detergents and distilled water available. Cheap alternatives are generic 99% or 70% IPA, Acetone, paint thinner, distilled water with simple green all purpose cleaner or johnson baby shampoo (the clear one which comes in yellow bottle), colin / windex diluted to 10% with distilled water can me used too.
My old collegue - goldhand-man from soviet union say that he use pure soviet snpb solder (pos60) and resin-etanol flux with later ethanol clearing. And he say that they have no problem in any application long years (i see this incredeble mechano-electronic devices). Main field of application is measurement of extremely low currents and charges, were any residuals may shadow usefull signals.
Thanks for these videos; they're very helpful. Note that you should clean the organic flux very carefully (or avoid it in the first place): ruclips.net/video/V1aONINVkSE/видео.htmlm7s
@@Qeskido Судя по видео- не при смытии, а при нанесении, т.к. процесса "смытие" в видео нет. Это все равно что добавить порошок на одежду, высушить без полоскания и жаловаться на качество стирки.
Wrong solder. Wrong flux. Firstly, you shouldn't be using lead (Pb) in your solder any more. It should all be lead free. It's over a decade since I stopped using lead solder. Next you want to avoid rosin solders. Their fumes need extraction so you're better to use rosin-free fluxes. I still use extraction even with the "safe" fluxes. And finally, you get no-clean fluxes.
@MrDatagor, the problem is that showing you how easy is it to work with banned solders doesn't help you at all. Sure, leaded solder was easy to work with, but you can't use that in product now. And rosin solders aren't safe. They're something that you should be avoiding. Call me a snob if you wish, but the reality in the electronics industry can't use his videos for teaching because they're using out of date technologies. He needs to start using legal solders and improving his choice of flux. Something that he can get from any leading suppliers.
John Sim, look like you very angry when see someone not following the industry specific requirements. Lead and Lead-free solder, both still have advantages and disadvantages, people just choose for compatible with their applications. My application not require RoHS, so i choose lead solder for reduce price and avoid Tin whiskers
Tin whiskers are pretty much a non-event. I've heard of the fears, but never seen it in reality. Why would you? Majority of consumer electronics are manufactured without lead and if it was a problem we'd hear about all the time. Angry? Hardly. But it's a warning to those who are following these videos that they don't really reflect the reality of working with lead-free solders.
John Sim, i don't understand, why must reflect the reality of lead-free solders in video about cleaning flux ? lead-free change white residue to other colors or something else ?
In the last few days I’ve have learn a lot from your videos keep them coming 👍
I like your videos, they are good!! but can you make a video on how to choose the right desoldering nozzle? there are many types and shapes. thanx
Love your channel bro, i learned how to solder properly and always apply flux.
Thanks for this.. i've started cleaning boards with an ultrasonic cleaner and then with alcohol and i thought there was something wrong with my ultrasonic cleaner/solution. Guess i'll air dry it from now on
In my opinion, methylated spirit is the best to clean hard and soft flux and also white residue.
Thank you for this video demonstrative and very explanatory
who uses ethanol for cleaning anyway!?
I was kind of thinking that too. Problem for me is that Ethanol which is essentially Grain Alcohol in my country is sold with added red dye. As they do not want people consuming it without paying a lot of Tax for it (I hate the EU).
Methyl alcohol does not need that because it is harmful and not consumable. Also has a less pleasant smell than Ethyl Alcohol (ethanol).
As for Rosin flux, removing that (depends a bit on what type) is best done with lacquer thinner.
Most use Isopropyl alcohol which is in between the two but has a bit of a tendency to streak the pcb or soldermask.
@@xConundrumx that's super odd, 96% ethanol is sold in Spain in every pharmacy and supermarket at about €4 a litre. So no point in having to look around for isopropyl, which is a lot less readily available. And I thought it was the case everywhere in the continent... Weird reason to hate the EU xD
@@alicewyan it's the whole money grabbing mentality behind it that bugs me. It's so pervasive it just is borderline insane. For instance I got some chinese made PCB's a while ago from a well known chinese outfit that has this running promotion where you can get 10 boards for 2 dollars.
I needed some and figured let's give it a go and sure enough amazing quality (even got 11 boards) and only 2 dollars. Until it got to my country ... and they wanted 40+ euros import tax.
@@xConundrumx woah! What country is that? In mine Chinese imports don't get stopped unless their value goes above a certain number.
@@alicewyanand there is the problem, they get really testy about that here in Belgium. Mind you it's a hit and miss thing. Sometimes they can't be bothered and are just lazy. But more often than not they will suck what they can out of ya. I assume they also counted the shipping that time in the value, or maybe thought it was a fake price since it was so low (which we all know chinese vendors do often, put a fake price on the transport bill for that purpose) ... Whatever the case it is a frequent struggle.
Waiting on a frequency generator right now that I bought for 50 dollars, but shipping was well over a 100. So it will be fun to see what they try to charge me this time.
Muito bom seus vídeos. Obrigado, aprendi várias dicas. Vou aguardar novos vídeos no futuro. Parabéns.
Useful video 👍 Excellent 👍
I never use ethanol, only isopropanol...and mechanic flux =)
good recommendation!
Love your vids my man keep it up!! 💜
Believe what you want! If you don’t clean the flux from the board, at the very least you will leave a magnet for dirt and other things which will, in time, become a headache. It is just poor workmanship and aggravated by a dose of lack of pride in your work to leave it on there. I can’t believe anyone would! Unbelievable!🙄
For the sake of your sanity, don't open most consumer electronics and appliances, as the vast majority leave the flux residue. (Computer stuff seems to be the only meaningful exception.)
Antonio Tejada, Mr Antonio, it may sound like an overreaction, but I have done work where people’s butts were on the line if I did not give a whole lot of a damn. I am quite familiar with the lack of concern for quality of work. Mass production is most inclined to let things go. In the military where I received my training, your failure could wind up getting your coworkers hurt or worse, killed. Failure is no option in that case. I recognize their focus is output not quality of work. It is sad, but everyone or business has their ideas. I will not sacrifice my work for numbers Antonio. I give my all for my customers and anyone I work for. That’s how I roll!
Mark Philpot Oh, don’t get me wrong, I’m a persnickety pedant when it comes to what I do, so I totally understand. I’ve had to teach myself that in many situations, “good enough really is good enough”, and more frequently, “good enough is all others will allow without getting mad at me”...
Antonio Tejada, when you work for others or when the company philosophy is such that you must adjust your work towards that end, the choice is clear. I completely understand that. I have had to suffer for my quality stance in times past. Thing is, if you don’t step up your game, the competition will run over you. If you aren’t willing to suffer quality, you have to learn how to increase your working pace. Some are not willing to do that. Those are the ones who end up on the outside looking in!
Mark Philpot You think? I’ve only ever had one job where my attention to detail and commitment to quality was actually appreciated. :(
Can you use margarine for flux alternative?
I don't think so. Please try and let us know. ;)
Good video, as always you do, the best
Can you do a hot air tutorial pleas😄😄😄 love your work
What is it and What is for this video?
For mechanic who doesn't know how to clean the PCBs,
That looks like some kind of weird sunny side up egg
lmao wut
isopropanol and Amtech Syntech solder paste SN63/PB37 for me
You need to drop the lead solder. Opt for a good lead-free one. Yes, it's harder to work with but you just need to improve your skills.
My skills are fine. I've soldered since the 70's with 60/40 then in the mid 80's when lead free came out. AFAIC 63/37 is the very best, solder with lower heat on heat sensitive SMD and better results. I worked soldering industrial and worked in prototyping in all areas of soldering.
@WV Rick, The 70s and 80s is where leaded solder belong. Now in the 2000s we have to use lead-free solders. Industry has no choice; lead is banned in electronic goods. Sure, lead in the solder made it easy, and I do miss it for what you could do, but now you've no choice but to improve you skills and find other techniques that work with lead-free. For rework SMT I find using a heat plate under the board just to lift the "ambient" temperature of the board makes a huge difference.
Leaded solder will be around until it's not. Sure the industry has to use lead free because they are forced too. You can still use leaded for repair and prototyping. Anyone serious about soldering boards should preheat. A plate is ok but not necessary, I sometimes use a reflow oven but mostly hand solder or hot air station. I get a lot of redo work from poor soldering (lead free) and heat damaged components (the higher temp lead free needs to melt). I am certified in all type soldering but choose leaded.
You're making a bad choice. Especially to mix alloys.
If you're "certified in all type(s) (of) soldering" you should have the skills to be able to use lead-free easily enough, without damaging sensitive components.
I used to think I'd just use leaded solder for prototypes as it's easier, but without even thinking about it I never did. I use lead-free on my prototypes. Prototypes that include QFN packages and those are always difficult! So from prototypes to production to rework, it can all be done with lead-free solder and good quality and safe fluxes. And you can also have the right fume extraction for all of those processes too.
My clients don't want lead in their products, even if it's a prototype, they want lead-free.
If you're unable to do that then I'd encourage you to skill-up so that you can. I've created a tiny bit of scrap practicing, but it never went to waste as I learned much better ways to work with the solder and improved my skills further.
Sir my solder is shit and costs so much can you give me a link of a better solder
ru.aliexpress.com/item/Sale-High-Quality-0-5mm-100g-60-40-Rosin-Core-Tin-Lead-Solder-Wire-Soldering-Welding/32679230667.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.274233ed7bBra6
@@alexeyk8460 good choice my russian commrade!. The yellow kaina is fake btw. The white & blue kaina is good. But you can find good quality Electrolyte & Kester solder if you know the official distributors at very low price. Btw I recommend mechanic or amtech gel fluxs & solder pastes, works great (always 63/37 + organic / no clean type flux). 99% IPA from Fischer chemicals is lab grade & works wonders.
Hello... how are you ?
i got few Querrys
1. what brand flux shud i use
2. which cleaning agent or chemical shud i use ?
Are you facing problem cleaning the white residues after assembly? We have cleaning solution which cleans Flux and White Residues. marketing@schservices.com
Well my Indian friend I was just like you when I started soldering!.
The cheap solder and flux paste (Starts with Q or something) is a nightmare.
I had a list of solder & flux manufacturers who supply for Defense factories like BEL, BHEL, etc, they're quality is far better (on par with kester, we used kester solder though) than any consumer grade chinese or Indian counterparts or these cheap private marketers like the one below. But you obviously can't buy them online.
As for the easy stuff you can buy, go with
1. Kester, NS, BT, mechanic or kaina (white blue) brand for both solder & flux.
2. 99% 1-Propanol from Fischer Chemicals (used in defense factories). Otherwise I recommend you go to lab equipment wholesalers to get quality IPA. You can also use 99% acetone (lab grade). There also specific cleaning detergents and distilled water available.
Cheap alternatives are generic 99% or 70% IPA, Acetone, paint thinner, distilled water with simple green all purpose cleaner or johnson baby shampoo (the clear one which comes in yellow bottle), colin / windex diluted to 10% with distilled water can me used too.
My old collegue - goldhand-man from soviet union say that he use pure soviet snpb solder (pos60) and resin-etanol flux with later ethanol clearing. And he say that they have no problem in any application long years (i see this incredeble mechano-electronic devices). Main field of application is measurement of extremely low currents and charges, were any residuals may shadow usefull signals.
Nice work...
so vegan flux is better
Thanks for these videos; they're very helpful. Note that you should clean the organic flux very carefully (or avoid it in the first place): ruclips.net/video/V1aONINVkSE/видео.htmlm7s
Excelente vídeo, parabéns.
I bought ipa in 2 litres and some syringes
Awsome video
without talking the video look like listening music.
Good
sooo satisfying.
Top
13 mins of my life gone forever.....unsub
Good macro
Не могу ниче прочесть, не по русски надпись здесь.
first :D
кто чо понял то?
При смытии некоторых флюсов этанолом(медицинский спирт в основном) остаётся "налёт" в виде парафина.
@@Qeskido при смытии канифоли.
@@101picofarad Канифоль тоже флюс. 😁
@@Qeskido Судя по видео- не при смытии, а при нанесении, т.к. процесса "смытие" в видео нет. Это все равно что добавить порошок на одежду, высушить без полоскания и жаловаться на качество стирки.
Wrong solder. Wrong flux.
Firstly, you shouldn't be using lead (Pb) in your solder any more. It should all be lead free. It's over a decade since I stopped using lead solder.
Next you want to avoid rosin solders. Their fumes need extraction so you're better to use rosin-free fluxes. I still use extraction even with the "safe" fluxes.
And finally, you get no-clean fluxes.
:) Firstly, you do not have to be a snob. Then you want to avoid a mentor's tone. And finally, you get a good communication.
@MrDatagor, the problem is that showing you how easy is it to work with banned solders doesn't help you at all. Sure, leaded solder was easy to work with, but you can't use that in product now. And rosin solders aren't safe. They're something that you should be avoiding.
Call me a snob if you wish, but the reality in the electronics industry can't use his videos for teaching because they're using out of date technologies.
He needs to start using legal solders and improving his choice of flux. Something that he can get from any leading suppliers.
John Sim, look like you very angry when see someone not following the industry specific requirements. Lead and Lead-free solder, both still have advantages and disadvantages, people just choose for compatible with their applications. My application not require RoHS, so i choose lead solder for reduce price and avoid Tin whiskers
Tin whiskers are pretty much a non-event. I've heard of the fears, but never seen it in reality. Why would you? Majority of consumer electronics are manufactured without lead and if it was a problem we'd hear about all the time.
Angry? Hardly. But it's a warning to those who are following these videos that they don't really reflect the reality of working with lead-free solders.
John Sim, i don't understand, why must reflect the reality of lead-free solders in video about cleaning flux ? lead-free change white residue to other colors or something else ?