Garden Room Workshop: Part 16. Plasterboarding
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- Опубликовано: 4 май 2020
- Find the full series playlist here: bit.ly/2BiLSyC
Part 16 of a video series about how to self-build a timber-framed garden room office (aka tiny house) /wood workshop in the UK.
This video covers plasterboarding and cement boarding the shower room and re-vists the imperial vs metric debate.
The purpose of this video series is to provide all the information required for viewers to build their own garden room rather than just a montage of the building work. It took me months of research to learn everything in these videos so I hope to save people time and money.
The videos are a mix of theory and footage of the build including all the mistakes I made along the way. I am not a builder or tradesman, just a keen DIY-er with some basic tools. Everyone can do this!
In the longer term, I hope to turn this channel into a community for garden room self-builders.
Garden room ideas: workshop, office, games room, cinema room, art studio, music studio, yoga retreat, spare bedroom, annexe, run a home business such as yoga classes or hair salon.
🌍My website - www.alidymock.com
📸Instagram - / alidymock
💌 Email - hello@alidymock.com
Where the tool I used isn't available, closest option linked:
Tools used:
Plasterboard carrier amzn.to/3b4rnS1
Hand saw
Plasterboard (aka pad or jab) saw amzn.to/3foY5Ry
Drywall screwdriver bits www.screwfix.com/p/ph2-drywal...
Work platform
Surform amzn.to/3dqDhrb
Utility knife
Straight edge (1.8m level) amzn.to/2BRo5Fp (UK)
Impact driver www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er...
Hammer amzn.to/2oeWBjv (UK)
Tool-belt amzn.to/3c66x64
Drill
Safety: gloves, eye-wear, ear protection, dust mask
Materials used:
Drywall screws www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-...
Tapered plasterboard 12.5 x 1200 x 2500mm www.ccfltd.co.uk/GTEC-Plaster...
Hardie Backer Cement board 12 x 1200 x 800 www.selcobw.com/products/bath...
Alkali-resistant mesh tape www.selcobw.com/hardiebacker-...
Good websites to check prices for materials:
www.selcobw.com/
www.builderdepot.co.uk/
Music: Joakim Karud 
Хобби
Even though I am a builder/carpenter I still really enjoy watching your series. In a nice way you have a nerdy approach to the whole thing. It seems that you research absolutely everything to the core and than kindly explain the options and reasons behind doing things a certain way to us viewers. If this is your first project you are doing an excellent job and would make a fine builder. I take my hat of to you.
Not sure how I missed this comment. Appreciate the kind words. It is my first project and essentially I just explain things how I would want them to be explained to me, didn’t think professionals would watch though!
This video is god. The amount of editing you have done for us alone is legendary, let alone the information and research. I salute you Sir.
I love how you go into all the practical technicalities even on basic stuff unlike other diy youtube channels. Keep up the good work!
👍I just figure everyone is as clueless as I am/was lol
FYI Ali, you can reverse the way your roller blind hangs by unrolling it al the way. The fabric will be flusher to the window and less light will leak round the outside edges. The disadvantage is that then the roll is visible rather than concealed. Thanks for the videos, they are great 👍🏼
First of all thank you for the very detailed information and explanations. What I really appreciate is that you are modest about what you are doing and learning. I am fairly handy myself and have worked in the building trade for some years. My dad was an exceptional carpenter and joiner and I never stopped learning from him and he was always modest about what he did or knew. So I commend you for your good attitude and the garden room looks fantastic.
I am a small reptile and exotic rescue. I thought my little friends needed a warmer upgrade. So this really helps thank you!
I love it when someone does all the nerding for you. Great set of videos, Ali.
- The most important takeaway from this video is: I got the yellow arrow to MOVE! Editing skills levelled up!
- I've mentioned on another video, not in this series, that due to moving house, the garden room won't be a workshop but I forgot to mention it here so that's why I went with plasterboard walls instead of OSB.
- The whole metric vs imperial thing is a pain and to those of us unacquainted with the building industry it's a bit of a minefield but hopefully this video puts it to bed for you. Just don't get me started on nominal vs actual sizes of timber!
-Oh, and I need some accountability so if I don't upload a new video once a week on average for the next few weeks then I'm a bad boy and you all have permission to have a moan at me in the comments.
😁
I'm a keen DIYer but no where near your level. Just want to say your videos are an inspiration and the most informative on RUclips! They are the perfect blend between theory and practical, fancy rendernering and hand drawn diagrams.
A quick question. You mentioned your moving homes, but in one of your uploads you mentioned that one of the windows wouldn't normally be in its position but as it overlooks your mothers house it's ok. Now that you're moving do you have to do anything about that window?
Hi Ali , can I ask how much the electrician cost ? thanks
Ali, the quality of your videos is brilliant. The level of detail is perfect and it's great to hear the whole thought process. I just wish you were a full time builder making loads more videos like this 😂😂👌👌👌
Thanks for sharing.
mate, thank you. Lovely comment!
The half metricated building materials are a nightmare. Sterlingboard in 11mm thichness is 8x4 but the same product in 9mm is 2400x1200. Personally I like to do inner walls with 25-50mm pir sheeting all taped as a backing and as a vapour barrier. They can be butt jointed (glued or foamed) mid span. Then the plaster board without cutting can overlay offsetting the pir joints. A few dabs of say CT1 between the pb and pir gives a good result. The walls feel more solid, eliminates thermal bridging and then taped and filled as normal. I offset the additional cost of the pir by using mineral wool between the studs using say 150mm wool for 100mm gap. This slight compression helps to reduce slump in the wool. All variations on a theme. Brill vids!
T-bar to keep the boards up is a brilliant idea. Used it. Thanks 😉👌🏼
The best finish is with full plastering the drywall. I'm watching your videos from Romania. You explain everything great. Roofing, structure, humidity problems... just great! And the DIY thing is great to. Thanks for the great content. Even Robin Clevett is talking about your chanel 😁😁.
Just wanted to say THANK YOU FOR ALL UR EFFORT IN MAKING THESE VIDEOS! I started and finished my office shed because of u! U freaking amazing 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
I love your videos they are so concise and helpful! Thanks so much 😊
jesus - i can only imagine how long the editing took on this video!!! rich with detail - love it!!!
I used your videos to make my own Cedar Cladding outhouse. So pleased with the result, just need to plaster and put decking around and it's done. Your videos are so informative and helpful, keep up the great work 👍
I was quite keen to see how you finished outside your garden office, however this the last episode of your working on the project, well not the last one indeed, but it’s the last one in terms of DIY.
It was great experience and I’ve learned piety much and I’ve saved some of videos for my future project. Also I have to mention that you did very well on researching in all aspects to make it perfect and you’ve done it.
It’s absolutely superb office/room with perfect materials, contemporary and more important is saving energy while can keep it warm in cold weather.
This video is absolutely excellent, thanks so much for your effort.
I doubt I will ever do this, but the amount of details you have added to these videos i feel I could. I see so many us videos but not enough uk so good to have ppl like you. Great job 👏
Thanks! If you ever have the desire to build one you totally can, once you know a bit it's not so hard :)
I love your methodical approach to an unknown subject! It is really inspiring. Thanks for the videos!
👍
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into these videos and the accompanying resources. They are really helpful and entertaining. Im sure you have saved lots of people hours and hours of research, prevented mistakes and the use of non standard practices. All of the little tips are great too. Thanks again, bril channel.
Thanks so much Rich!
Absolutely brilliant video, love the way you give the reasoning behind your choices, and your attention to detail. Appreciate the amount of work you put into these videos.
I appreciate the comment Iain 👍
Your website told me I was a robot, which I didn't much appreciate. But otherwise GREAT VIDEO!
Biggest take away for me is to do 40cm spacing for wall and roof joists! Planning my build so this series has been invaluable! Thank you
Great to see another video from you Ali...I've been walling my own room today...it's great to have a project to get into during this lockdown!!
Agreed Richard! I look forward to seeing some new photos soon then ;)
3:18 "You've combined metric and imperial... you might get an interdenominational hangover" Mark Corrigan
Love the irony of the safety boots with loose laces.
Living life on the edge. I've now got slip on safety boots, highly recomended!
Another brilliant vid Ali, been waiting for this one. Looking forward to the next one too 👍
Brother you are my God.... thanks for any information given so far.
My pleasure!
Nice work, Ali. You inspired me to build a shed of my own, instead of paying someone else, and although it's taken longer, it's far more satisfying. ... thank you.
Totally agree!
Another good video with lots of useful info.
Thanks for taking the time to share it.
Cheers Andre
Great stuff. Perfect for long lockdown evenings. Thank you.
Bit of a late night one this, for the night-owls among us!
Ali Dymock indeed 😃. Just finished watching another brilliant video and handy info for an internal bedroom refit I’m doing to know about doing the ceiling first, makes perfect sense. Still undecided on metric vs imperial though for my cabin😳🤣. Lockdown is good for perfecting sketch up plans and working out detailed timber quantities. Hope the new house is going well. All the best and stay safe.
Really look forward to your video’s they’re very informative and interesting thank you for putting has much time and effort has you do into the research for them.
Great to hear that that come through on the videos as they do take an age to create! I might slack off a bit for some of the new house stuff ;)
Thanks Ali - great resource.
Thus is such a great resource, it makes me want to go back in time and build my workshop again! 😂 Great stuff Ali, looking good
😀
Great stuff, Ali! Hope the house move has gone/is going well. Best aye!
nay bad- I'm building a fence! Hope all's well up north :)
Great videos, when I did some plaster boarding a while ago. I put the plasterboard straight over the windows and then cut out the window. It saved measuring cuts for the windows.
Yeh there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Whatever works I say!
Brilliant video again thanks!
My pleasure!
Hey your back!!! Good job mate. Looking great.
Pad saw works well for cutting out sockets in plaster board. No drilling required. Just draw the outline of the socket back box and then punch through with the pad saw then saw round your mark. The board won’t crumble then. Nice clean cut.
Ah so that's the proper name for a plasterboard saw! I've updated the description. Yeh I tried that way too, works well!
Amazing video you really put some time and effort in the edit 👍
Such a useful vid
Great build! I'm a kindred spirit in planning the details before I set to... Overall it takes longer than the "bash away and get it built" approach but you avoid the annoyance of having to go back over work you thought was finished.
On the imperial/metric issue, I found that despite being units-bilingual I rarely use the inches side of a tape measure. So, I ordered a tape measure off German Amazon that is metric only... Makes life a little easier when you are measuring something in cm but it's on the imperial side of the tape.
I've watched every one of your videos on this build and I'm hooked! Aboit time i gave you a comment. Looking forward to seeing the finished build 😀
Welcome aboard! Glad you like them, Part 19 will be out soon. Then it's just the cladding left to go after that! :)
As some one who works in construction I take my hate off to you consideration of every stage and how it will affect the next. Really thorough planning very impressive
Another useful video. I went for 16” centres as I’d originally planned to do plywood walls, but now I’ve changed my mind I’ve got the fun of cutting down boards. Looking forward to the tape and join video, that bit looks daunting!
We’re in the same boat then. The good news is that it’s really not too bad at all. Tape and jointing is tougher than it looks!
Ali Dymock I watched another tape and join video. Apparently if you have all the fancy equipment and years of experience it’s a piece of cake..... oh well.
great video breakdown as always. Shame that plasterboard dimensions are such a mess!
Just an extra note for those in the U.K. If your thinking about using plasterboard which is 900mm x 2400mm, I advise you rethink your design to fit some of the more common sizes, as you will most likely not be able to find a UK company who will supply this size, unless you buy 80 sheets minimum! (in my experience)
Be careful and Phone a few companies whilst your at your design stage, to see if it does actually exist to purchase in smaller amounts!.
I finished my entire build, with dimensions and noggin spacings to exactly fit British Gypsum Gyproc Wallboard 12.5mm @ 900mm x 2400mm which you can easily find online for purchase. ( I did my research months in advance.) When I came to purchase I easily found three reputable companies who supply it, even placed an order and paid for 23 sheets from one of these suppliers... The next day I was called and informed that they can not get stock of this, nor keep any in stock as it's very peculiar size apparently?!, You can only get stock if you order 80 sheets ( a pallets worth!) So I ended up having to have way more but joins than planned. If I hadn't have already purchased all my drywall equipment, sanders, tape, tools etc (which is expensive), I would have been better off Traditionally plaster skimming the whole room, as you need less equipment and its not that difficult to skim a small room, I just fancied trying tape and joining, but I am now regretting it.
Seems like wallboard/plasterboard suppliers are full of miss-information and websites selling sizes and stock that don't exist, unless your buying the standard sizes from a store like Wickes, you may find you'll have problems.
Hey Ali thanks for your videos man, I have been watching them for the last 2 years until I took the plunge and started by DIY garden room, today we have just finished the last structure (11mm OSB) for the warm roof, and waiting for EPDM and fascias to arrive. My build was with thermal blocks + planned EWI in render though. But I really want to congrratulate you and thank you for all the little details on each video, this has helped me achieve what I plan to do!
Thanks Herick and that's great, well done you. Render sounds like a beautiful finish, you'll have to send me some photos when you're done.
@@AliDymock I will for sure, you alone pretty much walked me through the whole thing! Hopefully in a couple of weeks all is done!
How much did it cost u approx. And what did u build?
Thanks a lot, brill video
Cheers for these vids dude! Very interesting stuff. (16:04 Can't believe a man of your resources doesn't have a hole saw in his toolbox!)
I work in at a company that does office fitouts, so I see a lot of plasterboard going up. 12.5mm standard "ivory" plasterboard is typically rated for a certain fire amount of fire resistance, often 30 minute. When the specification calls for 60 minute fire rating, many companies simply "double board" their walls - as in, they fit one sheet of plasterboard, and then lay another directly over the top. This gives a satisfactory fire rating in the eyes of the planners. As always, check your local planning laws to see what applies for your specific build, but the double boarding method may save you a headache if it turns out that you have to meet a 60 minute fire rating by law - again, this will vary depending on the plasterboard you use.
Thanks Dominic. Sounds like a good way of getting around fire regs without having to buy fire-resistant PB. Luckily for garden rooms under 30m2 internally b regs don't apply, unless
Great info again mate..enjoy the lockdown...;-)
Heheh you too!
Great series, very much enjoying it and also learning a thing or two from the thorough research you’ve done.
One thing I’m a little confused about is the use of an internal vapour membrane?
As far as I’m aware this is a technique used in more extreme climates, good circulation is best imho.
All you have to do to prevent hairline cracks above doors and windows is notch 20mm out of the plasterboard either side of the window and fit a full piece above so each side has 20mm to rest on 👍🏻
Enjoying the series mate, wish you'd have skimmed it though 😏 (yes I'm a spread)
Ah that's good info! The sides are where my hairline cracks appeared though so would having a joint in the plasterboard there help or hinder?
Haha, I wish I had too, tape and jointing was a right pain. I'm about to get a plasterer in to do our bedroom walls and ceiling. Have you ever plastered over a painted artex ceiling (not too spikey, more like lumps)? No sure if it has asbestos but either way I'm hoping not to disturb it and the plasterer can just skim over, is that doable?
@@AliDymock it's mainly when dot and dabbing you notch the 20mm so the boards each side of the window take the weight of the one above, it's just habit for me to do it, it maybe due to the tape and joint method (not got much experience with that)
As for you bedroom, any wall or ceiling that is solid (not loose or falling down) can be re plastered. I tend to opt for a grit instead of standard PVA (Febond or Bostik are good grit primers). If the Artex is too proud to reskim, it may need a thin bonding coat applied before skimming. It all depends on how stable your background is 👍🏻
Its your videos that made me do my own cabin so I cant thank you enough! I'm at the electrics stage but I'm using plastic plasterboard wall sockets, how to you make sure the vapour barrier is good and sealed around these boxes?
Hi Ali, Thank you for sharing your build video. What was the typical cost the shell of the building?
Little tip with the reveals, use a straight edge to cut the face of the board and it will snap much better
Hi Ali, I’ve been following your videos for over a year and have just come to the plasterboarding part of my own build. You might be interested to know that in Ireland the standard size for plasterboard is 1200x2440. So whether you go 16” or 400mm spacings it will hit a stud one way or the other!
Hi. Just after a building control visit. U need fire resistance plasterboards on walls that are closer then 1 meter from the boundaries. Plus windows can't be bigger then 1 m2 on those walls.
Good to know Patryk. I wish there were a hard and fast rule like this but each b regs department has a different view on what is acceptable so yeh, defo worth asking them what they will sign off in your area.
Hi Ali, great to see another one of your videos - I can't believe I'm a week late watching it!!! I blame Lockdown 😋 I've watched each and everyone of your videos in awe at how much detail and advice you fit into each one and this one was no exception. You are so generous with your time because I know how much time and effort would have to go into your videos. I've never seen one of those plasterboard drill attachments before so I'm now going to enjoy some online DIY shopping - my favourite kind 😉
Take care Ali 😃
Great vid Ali! Only thing to mention is that it seems 300mm is the minimum for screws on the vertical. My house is actually 20mm, I think some do it by the length of a hand instead of measuring. I guess with the strong fixings available like spring toggles and the cheapness of the screws then the more the merrier is probably the way to go.
Yeh I did some reading both before doing the plasterboard and when making the video and as with everything building related, everyone has their opinion! I imperialised to a round number British Gypsum's advice: www.british-gypsum.com/technical-advice/faqs/053-what-are-the-screw-fixing-centres-for-partitions-ceilings-encasements
You should see the plasterboard work on my mum's extension- they hardly used any screws! 🙈🙄
Love these videos so informative and educational for DIYers will you be posting the jointing and taping ?
Yes, soon!
Ali Dymock Great thanks! Looking forward to it !
I don’t know anything about chemistry, but I’ve seen other videos recommend using galvanized screws in cement board to resist the alkaline?
Hi great videos, your first video was over 2yrs ago. How long has it taken to build your workshop?
Hi Ali. Great set of vids which have been extremely helpful on my journey. Fantastic editing as well btw! I just wanted to ask about boarding the ceiling... I've seen a number of people suggest adding additional noggins or board carriers prior to plasterboarding. Is this really necessary do you think? You didn't appear to do this in the video. Tx
Did you insulate the ceiling? What did you use and how?
Hi Ali, great videos with amazing detail. Just a question, what non combustible cladding did you use for the outside?
I will get to that. There are options such as fire-retardant sealant or paint or cement board such as magply.
I meant to mention that the system allows for 600mm centres for all studwork, which is another cost and time saving.
Good stuff, I've lifted 8ft MR board on to ceilings on my own, it's definitely a two-person job. The divide in the country between metric and imperial creates so many issues. I'm not going to go there however, I know how angry people get when you favour one over the other!
Edit: just realised I referred to it as an 8' board when it isn't, reinforcing my point.
lol, you must be Herculean lifting one on your own! Yeh, I really don't mind either system, metric being decimal is easier but just make stuff for one size. I know why it is though - so much of our timber products come over from the US as they have the trees, and hence in imperial. 89mm and 63mm CLS = 3.5 and 2.5 inches. Very tough for newbies to understand this stuff. When I started, I went down a builders merchants with a tape measure just to understand it all lol
Ran into the same imperial/ metric problem in my build!
Bloomin' nightmare isn't it!
Hi when will part 17 come out ? :)
What was the final overall cost? If mentioned, sorry must have missed it 🙈
The vertical joint above the door should always be at lease 150mm from the corner of the door. The cracking you have had and repaired will keep coming back for ever as the corner will always flex.
Hey Ali. Always enjoy your videos. I've just plasterboarded my office and there were a few 'oh, maybe I should have done that' moments. It was also a job I hated. Always learning!
I was intrigued about your comments about not using exterior sheathing and using the internal plasterboard as the material to give the wall it's shear strength. Where have you seen this?
To me plasterboard doesn't seem like it would have anywhere near the strength and it's vulnerability to water would also be a concern to me.
Even on cheap American housing I've seen on YT it always seems to have some kind of external sheathing, even if it's some kind of hardboard type material.
I didn't mind plaster-boarding actually, it's the next step, tape and jointing which was a struggle!
To clarify, I'm not saying that plasterboard gives the same or anywhere near as much structural integrity as OSB/ply sheathing but if you watch the garden room companies on YT they regularly just put the breathable membrane right on the the outside of the studs. While I wouldn't recommend it, I appreciate there are a wide variety of builds and budgets so having plasterboard hung horizontally is at least going to help vs vertical. For a simple garden office, plasterboard, noggins, battens and cladding should be more than enough to ensure decent rigidity of the walls.
Sheds are after all just studs and cladding and they stay pretty solid.
@@AliDymock thanks for the clarification! Some interesting considerations.
Agree the taping and jointing and sanding wasn't fun either. I had the issue that I had to do it all on my own because of the lockdown, so getting the ceiling up was... fun.
It came out ok for me in the end and it seems bright white paint covers a lot of sins (though I haven't seen it under the final lighting yet, 😬 but it looks ok in the day).
Inside a house, I think it's customary to use two layers of plasterboard for both walls and ceilings.
You can also get some 0,5mm steel band on a roll to use on the back of the plasterboard, if you have edges that are not supported directly.
Sounds interesting - I can't quite imagine how one would use the steel band though...? Do you screw through it where two sheets meet and it secures them together?
Exactly. I can't speak to it with any authority, but from what I gather it's to strengthen the joints, where it would otherwise just be plasterboard screwed to plasterboard and to prevent cracks in the surface later.
This was the best image I could find - ignore the gibberish language :)
docplayer.dk/docs-images/40/2917128/images/page_14.jpg
Recently found your vids and they are brilliant. So helpfull in my planning.
Do you mind saying what your budget was or how much you spent up to this point?
Thanks Matthew. I'm going to cover this in a vid at the end as I haven't tallied it up. I think we're looking toward the £20k mark.
Cheers Ali.
I may have missed you covering this at some point, but would your construction be allowed under the caravan act, rather than getting planning?
Are you planning to put out the "Taping and Jointing" video any time soon?
Yeh that’s next on my list after the fence 👍
Can I ask if you have done the cladding out the outside of the building and if you have is there a video up of it?
Not yet Jamie, that will probably be the last video of the series.
Brilliant video Ali! thank you so much for such a thorough explanation. I'm planning to create a partition with 2400x1200 boards. After seeing your video, I can see that there's no harm on screwing the boards straight without creating two halfs i.e. 2400x600 (12.5mm) each so then they can be fixed at 600mm centers. So as long as the board it's fixed on the stud at 600mm centers (horizontally) and 300mm (vertically) , it can be actually fixed in full right? The second question I have is in regards the thickness after tapping and jointing, so I'm trying to cover the space created by an arch currently dividing the living and the sitting room, by placing plasterboards to the space below the arch. Because of this I need to place the stud and the plasterboard so it's even and flat and continues through the current arch wall. Am I good just by placing my stud 12.5mm from the current edge of the arch or should I need extra mm for tape/joint and painting? I hope it makes sense and thank you so much again. Juan
Glad it was helpful. The first thing yeh sounds fine. I’ve seen so much plaster boarding with far fewer screws than I used so as long as you use 12.5mm or thicker you’ll be fine on 600mm centres.
The second I’m less clear on but Part 17 should give you an idea of corners. Around my windows it’s all flat and looks flat after tape and jointing 👍
@@AliDymock Thanks for coming back to me! So basically there's an arch between the dinning room and the sitting room. In trying to place plasterboard just in the middle so it's not an arch anymore but a wall so I divide the sitting and dinning room into two independent rooms, installing some new doors, etc.. Just realised that the current arch which is plasterboarded too has plasterboard corner metal all around the arch edge. Would you say I need to remove this metal before placing the my new frame and plasterboards below the arch so I can form the flat and continuous wall to divide the two rooms? I'm afraid that if I don't remove it, after taping and joining the new plasterboards, what will be the new flat wall won't actually be flat because of this metal edge even if it was properly taped and jointed? I hope this makes sense. Many Thanks,
Juan
Hi Ali. I’m wanting to keep the roof joists exposed in mine. Do you know of a way to install the vapour barrier whilst leaving the roof joists exposed. I’m doing a warm roof like yours
Hi Danny, yeh just put the vapour barrier above the sub-deck so you won't see it from below - check out Parts 9 and 10 to see what I mean 👍
Good work.Your editing skills are massively improving !!!!!
Im building one myself now, just finished the block work. will 15mm plasterboard on walls and celling be ok??
osb or plywood 18mm for the floor and roof ? i need to use cold roof design but im struggling to figure out how to keep it ventilated 🤔🤔🤔
Cheers, I'm slowly getting better, still struggling with audio though! Yeh for sure, 15mm is better of course than 12.5mm, get yourself a sheet lifter though, they're super heavy!
I'd say OSB for the roof and for the floor if it's getting covered with something else. Ply if that's the finished look. As for ventilation - 50mm above the insulation/under the OSB and then vents on either side -either in the soffits or at the bottom of the cladding 👍
@@AliDymock really appreciate your answer. On my walls i have 50mm space to fill with insolation, whats the cheapest stuff i can fill it with??
@@theferreira8632 Polystyrene, sawdust (victorians used it), scrunched up newspaper (does work-remember it's about trapping air!), wool (actual sheep's wool), hay/straw, or Rockwool (probably the most likely candidate for most people). Hempcrete might be an interesting option as well 👍
@@AliDymock thanks for the options.
Is that friend some kind of awesome/exotic tool collector?
Ha, pretty much yeh. And here's me with my Lidl collection. We do more together here: ruclips.net/video/x87c-wUy75k/видео.html
As for suggesting 9mm ply, never do this. Ply on a wall that is being used as a surface finish should always be 12mm minimum, ideally 15mm. This is to prevent it warping and bowing out.
Also, when working with plasterboard, you should always go to 400m centres, not 16 inch centres.
Cool, thanks for chipping in. Yep, metric all the way here in the UK, learnt that the hard way.
Hi Ali, your videos are amazing. I'm renovating my 10x10 garden shed into a office as I'm working from home now. I needed your advice please. I have bought 50mm kingspan sheets but they stick out a about 3mm from batten. Is that going to be a problem for me when I put up plasterboard. I'm a single mum Trying to do this myself to save some money. Pleass could you kindly help. Kind regards Natasha
Thanks Devi! Ah a retrofit. Hmm you could try plasterboard over the top of the insulation and just be sure not to screw too tight, I should think it would be fine. Or you could use some 3-5mm ply, cut strips and attach to the wall studs so you have clearance and then your plasterboard will have clearance over the insulation. B&Q do some 3.6mm ply: www.diy.com/departments/smooth-natural-hardwood-plywood-board-l-1-22m-w-0-61m-t-3-6mm/1696247_BQ.prd 👍
@@AliDymock thank you so much for your response... shall give it a go 🙏🏻
How much did it cost to convert approx?
Can some please tell me what is this green sheet called on the wall, can we use normal plastic sheet instead?
It's a vapour barrier - essentially a polythene sheet so in theory yes, a plastic sheet will do but it needs to be of decent thickness (gauge) to slow water vapour from passing through. A plastic decorators sheet wouldn't be thick enough and a DPM (damp proof membrane) while an excellent vapour barrier may be a bit too heavy for walls both from lifting it and stapling it. See Part 15 for for further explanation :)
Quick question pal, even though you have a warm roof Before boarding the ceiling would it be a problem to insulate the rafters? Thanks Daz
You mean insulation above and between the joists? That would be a hybrid roof which tend to be recommended against due to interstitial condensation. You're better off going for just a warm roof (I reckon 50mm is pretty decent amount of insulation) or go cold, which means ventilating out of the soffits from above the insulation.
@@AliDymock I've done the warm roof with 75mm insulation. Cheers for taking the time to reply 👍 appreciate that.
Hi Ali, if you fit the plasterboard horizontally at 400mm centres do you need noggins all along the long edge? I originally had planned to fit vertically and have staggered noggins in the middle of the 2.3m high wall but if I were to now fit the plasterboard horizontally i would miss a lot of the noggins, does this really matter as i have vertical fixings every 400mm. Hope this makes sense. In your video i can't see any noggins supporting the long edges horizontally.
Was there an answer to this one - I was wondering the same.
Hi chaps, no you're fine, at least with 12.5mm PB on 400mm spacing. It doesn't need supporting on all 4 sides. In fact the ply on my floor isn't supported at the sides either. That said, if you are on 400mm centres you can go vertical, it's only because I went with 16" that it screwed up vertical spacing for me. On the ceiling though go perpendicular to the roof joists 👍
Hi, did you receive any discount for your channel from roofs4you?
I'm in the process of pursuing one? Thanks Mick
yeh, pop me an email at hello@alidymock.com and I'll shoot it across to you.
Hi, it won't let me email you.
Please email kyleb01@hotmail.com
Bahaha searching for proper grow room framing and smell prevention and it brought me here.... Got like 17 min in and realized it was a complete waste of time 🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯
I cannot believe there is so must variations of the Vapor barrie. Here in canada we do the exterior walls (tyvek and tape ) and interior walls and roof. So basically of ther is moisture trapped in the walls it goes goes down to the sill plate and collects because the sill plate is flat???? If th wall cannot breath it cannot release the moisture. Old houses breathed but not a passive house but no rot.log cabin has no Vapor barrie
Not sure I got all of that but Canada with similar-ish weather to here (cold in winter) will be similar in construction so a membrane outside to allow moisture to escape and a vapour barrier inside to slow vapour getting into the walls in the first place. As for log cabins, yes completely breathable (no membranes anywhere) but this is because there is no insulation. It's the insulation that causes the issues with vapour. The beautiful thing about a log cabin is that it's thick timber and timber is a poor conductor of heat i.e. it's a half decent insulator so a log cabin can hold heat reasonably well. Interesting stuff!
@@AliDymock thank you , it’s the insulation that’s cause Moisture. I know the old construction allowed the house to breath but now it’s this envelope (air tight) shift but you need a air exchanger which takes power. There got to be some way to combine and balance the two. I seen no Vapor barrie used when using rigid insulation like a Tiny homes.
I plasterboard everyday all day and use 40 sheets a day so I know what I am talking about.
Why didn’t you put rigid insulation in the ceiling for more R value?
I did but in a warm roof so the insulation is above the roof, rather than between the joists hence why you can see it here. It's the superior way of doing roof insulation but the downside is a greater overall height to the building and thicker fascia. See Part 9 for explanation: ruclips.net/video/hac7_Lbeg0c/видео.html and Part 10 for the action of installing the insulation: ruclips.net/video/X2oHYzh5PaE/видео.html
@@AliDymock oh I know, I watched all you videos and a have smashed the like button 2. I seen now a warm roof with 2 “ rigid insulation between the joist with a ail flow gap with no VP in the ceiling.
Any new videos coming soon?
tomorrow is the plan 🤓
You can let the plasterboard fly over the joist and but the next board to it. Its thought of as cheating but seems to work fine. For 12.5 plasterboard a 42mm drywall screw is best.
Interesting stuff. I can imagine that being okay for the ceiling but on the wall which might be leant on, I’d be more dubious, I imagine the plaster would crack with the movement.
It's a get out of jail move really. Using your drywall screws place a piece of 4xl or 3x1 on the back of your board and screw into it, it produces a surprisingly stiff joint.
I don't understand why you placed the studs on 16 inch centres. All building work under the CDM regs states that studs are on 400 mm centres. That's why plaster board is the size it is.
Yup, live and learn. At the time of building the structure there wasn't that much info out there on this stuff. The 16" worked well with OSB and ply, but came up short (or wide!) when it came to plasterboarding.
No insulation
12.5mm was a mistake, you always use 15mm due to it's outright strength.
even on 400mm centres? Also what is the use case for 12.5 and 9mm plasterboard then?
@@AliDymock Yes, even on 400mm centres. It’s so much stronger. 12.5 can be used, but it’s not as good and 9.5mm board is very rare and is used for specialist jobs with curves etc. I know my stuff, I do this every day and will use around 40 8x4 sheets per day on my own. I use a collared screw gun as well so allow me to do 40 screws per minute.
Damn I need to learn millimeters
10mm to a cm, 100cm to a metre, 1000m to a kilometre. Easy peasy. Divide mm by 10 to get to centimetres or 100 to get to metres.
No metric in general lol
cement board and tile adhesive are not waterproof. they are water resistant i.e. don't break down in water but do absorb water. see here www.jameshardie.co.uk/faq/do-i-still-need-to-tank-a-wetroom-using-hardiefloor-flooring/
400MM works all over the world😁
Not sure about the US!
The waste is exactly the same no matter how you hang the plaster board…
You may have missed it but due to going imperial I need longer boards to reach the intended studs so needed to cut off about 6cm per board, that's the wastage. Otherwise, nope, the orientation doesn't matter as you say