Note. Always grind the cut face of a gear or brake outer. If you look at a pre-cut cable kit you’ll almost certainly see this was done. Check a fresh cut cable under a magnifying glass, it’ll look like the Himalayas. It will often punch through the cap especially plastic. Just touch it up on a grinder pedestal or angle. Helps prevent “splaying “ too.Cheers, good episode 👍
Oooh this is a top quality explainer! I have one tool by this company and it happens to be the cable cutter, purchased about 15 years ago i think. It's SO GOOD! It seemed so expensive at the time given i don't do bicycles professionally and shouldn't need a highest quality tool but in hindsight it was really not that painful of an expense, i've occasionally spent more on things that barely work.
Been looking for a great video like you guys usually do and I think this was the only topic I couldn't find a good video on. I'm glad you guys released this, probs the most technical job on a bike
Hey Park Tool, can you also upload the older video you had for this housing sizing. I liked it more and it applied more directly to my type of bike! Thank you!
I have a blunt question: Why to use the segmented housing ? Is there some specific reason other then if the frame is set for such then you have to do it ?
all of the above and maybe frame design as well. most fregmented bikes do not have straight topubes or downtube, they are curved like in the video or the tubes are a bit oval or shaped in a way that make is a bit dofficult to put housing mounts on the frame. I personally ind that if it is segmented the cables will rust and stick a lot sooner than if it is full house, you just have a lot more openings.
does cable housing effect the smoothness of shifting FD? im using fd sensah ignite 2x9 speed and having trouble shifting from small gear to high. the mechanics said i need to replace the housing for better one rather using the default from factory
Could you tell, is the wire pitch on compressionlesss housing same for all manufacturers and how long is that pitch, if it's standard for all brands of housings? By wire pitch, I mean the pitch of those steel wires inside of compressionless housing. They coil in very long pitch. It's several inches for one turn. I believe it would be good to know the length of that pitch, when deciding the length of pend. Best would be, if the pend length divided to pitch length not having fractions. Then all wires would be loaded equally and would not squeeze the cable inside housing.. Although it seems that it works fine either way.. That's probably because the cable is a lot thinner than the opening in housing.. But for reinforced brake housing. I would like to have the pends to be on such length that all wires would get equal load.. Or actually I should ask whether I understand it right. So I am correct about this, or is there something happening that my logic or brain doesn't understand?
whattt?, bikes with 8 and less gears on wheel work ok with any inner/outer cable, 9 gears can be sensitive on compression/dilatation of cables, but 10 and more gears have problem if mosquito makes poo on cable, it has to have long travel for every gear and strong spring in derailleur to mitigate resistance in cable movement, dirt makes most of problem, when new cables are installed, it takes some time and km to everything take its place , i have problem after bike is transported in car and wheels were removed same as rear derailleur is removed from drop out, gears are mashed after bike is reassembled
That is a rather common shifter. If the ferrules do not fit, they may be oversized. Typically these are plastic. A chrome plated ferule tends to be larger and will not fit into shifter barrels.
I have a sram nx 12 speed and up at the 11 speed and 12 speed is not good at 11 it jumps/clicks and to change to the 12 speed it requires next to no movement on the shifter I mean it dosent even need to click. I think there are 3 problems: Too short of a chain B screw set to close And slighty bend hanger What do you think? Thanks
I have one bike that is sensetive to the short segment of cable housing at the rear derailleur. At the 8:15 mark in the video watch the derailleur move as the housing length is adjusted. My cable length at “10 mm too long” causes the cable housing to flex outward reducing the amount of pull at the derailleur for the smallest sprocket to 2nd sprocket. After that, shifts through the rest of the gears was fine. I shortened the housing twice to fine tune it. No more housing flex and perfect shifts.
Bro dont know about adblock browser even though its been around for a decade and a half lol what a n00b lol And penalising a channel that helps you save so much money through unsubscribing is cowardly and galvanising. Do you have a crappy bike repair channel that is incapable of comparing to the quality of videos and information in ParkTools channel?
Note. Always grind the cut face of a gear or brake outer. If you look at a pre-cut cable kit you’ll almost certainly see this was done. Check a fresh cut cable under a magnifying glass, it’ll look like the Himalayas. It will often punch through the cap especially plastic. Just touch it up on a grinder pedestal or angle. Helps prevent
“splaying “ too.Cheers, good episode 👍
Thanks for the tip, fortunately I've installed metal end caps.
Oooh this is a top quality explainer!
I have one tool by this company and it happens to be the cable cutter, purchased about 15 years ago i think. It's SO GOOD! It seemed so expensive at the time given i don't do bicycles professionally and shouldn't need a highest quality tool but in hindsight it was really not that painful of an expense, i've occasionally spent more on things that barely work.
Anyone else obsessed with that frikin Surley?! DAMN that’s a sick looking bike. It’s like the classic Bronco of bikes; timeless.
all you guys at Park Tools make awesome videos. Very much appreciated.
Can't stop watching every video you guys do. Really great explanations and production!
Videos like this is why i subscribed
The kind of video I was looking for, thank you so much time for me to get a new set of shifters.
Been looking for a great video like you guys usually do and I think this was the only topic I couldn't find a good video on. I'm glad you guys released this, probs the most technical job on a bike
Hey Park Tool, can you also upload the older video you had for this housing sizing. I liked it more and it applied more directly to my type of bike! Thank you!
.. Great video. Well done. I like the little face that pops out.
thank you, the old man working there never mentions this
can someone direct me to a vid thats give info on how much tension is needed. changing my wire, and everything is off.
'
@@samueldavies5176 Did u get it?
cn-10 is the crimping tool. that was a weird mistake from park tool to say you needed additional crimper
Great video
WHERE IS CALVIN JONES?!?!
He's around here somewhere.......
Pretty sure that was him at 10:07
Yeah moustache man was a legend. He was like cycling Chuck Norris.
Exactly!!! I want him to tell me what to do
@@AranJagoutz When you said mustache man it reminded me of a certain Austrian painter 😮😅
I have a blunt question: Why to use the segmented housing ? Is there some specific reason other then if the frame is set for such then you have to do it ?
I guess weight, the possibility to lubricate the cable if it becomes a bit corroded (in the case of flat bars) and aesthetic reasons.
@@benjaminvg8018 these reasons, plus a slight weight savings, and less overall drag.
@@MCodger ah yes, forgot the drag ;)
all of the above and maybe frame design as well. most fregmented bikes do not have straight topubes or downtube, they are curved like in the video or the tubes are a bit oval or shaped in a way that make is a bit dofficult to put housing mounts on the frame. I personally ind that if it is segmented the cables will rust and stick a lot sooner than if it is full house, you just have a lot more openings.
@@benjaminvg8018gotta count the 0.000001% of watt per hr saving
does cable housing effect the smoothness of shifting FD? im using fd sensah ignite 2x9 speed and having trouble shifting from small gear to high. the mechanics said i need to replace the housing for better one rather using the default from factory
If the cable is rusty, corroded, or dirty, it will drag. New cables and housing is almost always a good idea.
@@parktool ah ic, my bike just a month old. but i will try the suggestion. thx man.
Needs updating to include 3mm housing commonly used in droppers and through the headset, I have used it for a shifter.
Could you tell, is the wire pitch on compressionlesss housing same for all manufacturers and how long is that pitch, if it's standard for all brands of housings?
By wire pitch, I mean the pitch of those steel wires inside of compressionless housing. They coil in very long pitch. It's several inches for one turn. I believe it would be good to know the length of that pitch, when deciding the length of pend. Best would be, if the pend length divided to pitch length not having fractions. Then all wires would be loaded equally and would not squeeze the cable inside housing.. Although it seems that it works fine either way.. That's probably because the cable is a lot thinner than the opening in housing.. But for reinforced brake housing. I would like to have the pends to be on such length that all wires would get equal load..
Or actually I should ask whether I understand it right. So I am correct about this, or is there something happening that my logic or brain doesn't understand?
whattt?, bikes with 8 and less gears on wheel work ok with any inner/outer cable, 9 gears can be sensitive on compression/dilatation of cables, but 10 and more gears have problem if mosquito makes poo on cable, it has to have long travel for every gear and strong spring in derailleur to mitigate resistance in cable movement, dirt makes most of problem, when new cables are installed, it takes some time and km to everything take its place , i have problem after bike is transported in car and wheels were removed same as rear derailleur is removed from drop out, gears are mashed after bike is reassembled
That last section that enters the rear derailleur caused me no end of issues with Shimano rear derailleurs.
im not seeing housing length being measured to the max length turning the front fork left/right.
why?
Just brilliant
Would it not be better to have a continuos housing instead of segmented? It looks like it would be easy to convert from segmented to countinuos ?
Yes, use zip ties.
Bonjour les amis very cool Thank you ✌😊
can I convert segmented housing to full housing? because I hate rusty in that cable
Typically, yes. Use lots of zip ties so it stays tight to the frame.
Not bad good video 👍🏽
My ferrules don’t secure or seat into the barrel adjuster, they are just loose. What am I doing wrong.. Shimano 4700 sl shifters
In many drop bar brake shifter combos you will not use ferrules. Let the housing go into the shifter and it will seat nicely.
That is a rather common shifter. If the ferrules do not fit, they may be oversized. Typically these are plastic. A chrome plated ferule tends to be larger and will not fit into shifter barrels.
Thanks for the reply, they are flat bar tiagra shifters, I’m converting from a drop bar just feels like it should be more snug or secure
What will happen if a housing cable is small?
Calvin jones is my favroute
Ive been wondering why my rear shifting is so bad LBS used break housing 🤦♂️
Any plans on adding instructional videos for electric bikes?
What uniquely eBike topics would you like to see?
@@parktool I know I’m not the one who asked but I want to know how to convert a bike to an e bike
@@Bruhman_16 that will be an hour long video.
OT-RS900 looks like a spring too and is intended for shifting
I have a sram nx 12 speed and up at the 11 speed and 12 speed is not good at 11 it jumps/clicks and to change to the 12 speed it requires next to no movement on the shifter I mean it dosent even need to click.
I think there are 3 problems:
Too short of a chain
B screw set to close
And slighty bend hanger
What do you think? Thanks
I have one bike that is sensetive to the short segment of cable housing at the rear derailleur. At the 8:15 mark in the video watch the derailleur move as the housing length is adjusted. My cable length at “10 mm too long” causes the cable housing to flex outward reducing the amount of pull at the derailleur for the smallest sprocket to 2nd sprocket. After that, shifts through the rest of the gears was fine. I shortened the housing twice to fine tune it. No more housing flex and perfect shifts.
thank you so much
what a job
Nice!
Not very helpful when they’re jumping to different kind of bike every section.
Where is Calvin Jones? This man does it better than anyone.
12:19 I always used grease instead of lubricant...
The best combo I ever found was Shimano SP41 housing and Slick 50 One grease on the cable.
Grease is too thick and might cause stiction.
12:24 grease whit teflon are much better than oil...
grease is no good for these cables it introduces too much friction
Why have you added annoying background "music" which is distracting and makes it harder to concentrate on the dialogue?
Not that big of a deal....
Park tools have gone way OTT with ads, unsubscribed 👎👎👎
Bro dont know about adblock browser even though its been around for a decade and a half lol what a n00b lol
And penalising a channel that helps you save so much money through unsubscribing is cowardly and galvanising.
Do you have a crappy bike repair channel that is incapable of comparing to the quality of videos and information in ParkTools channel?