LB7 DURAMAX - Fuel Pressure Regulator install (DO YOU EVEN REGULATE?)
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
- It is time to change the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) in my 2001 LB7 Duramax GMC Sierra 3500. My removal procedure is slightly unorthodox compared to other processes you may have seen. I only remove the cold air intake and turbo horn, bend one fuel line out of the way then use a select set of small tools you can pick up at any hardware or auto store to remove and install the FPR unit. It's not rocket science, but it is the quickest route I know of.
FPR:
🔴Bosch 0928400535: amzn.to/3sx2VkY
🔴Dorman 904-570: amzn.to/3tzjIFw
🔴OKAY MOTOR Fuel Pressure Regulator for 2001-2004 6.6L LB7: amzn.to/3n02izg
TOOLS:
🔴Titan 11304 1/4-Inch Drive x 12-Inch 36-Tooth Extra-Long Ratchet: amzn.to/3fq7Lfv
🔴Ratchet Extensions: amzn.to/3waTKZM
🔴Telescoping Magnet: amzn.to/3hyeR44
🔴ABN Needle Nose 16in Plier: amzn.to/3wcnGoj
🔴MILWAUKEE'S 2457-20 M12 Cordless 3/8" Lithium-Ion Ratchet: amzn.to/2RgSSUN
Turbo Horn & Gasket:
🔴GPP Turbo Intake Horn: amzn.to/3x805q1
🔴Fel-Pro 61720 Turbocharger Mounting Gasket Set: amzn.to/3hCjY3h
Signs your FPR needs to be replaced:
Engine misfires/poor acceleration.
Black smoke coming from the exhaust.
Reduced fuel mileage.
Engine backfires.
Engine won't crank.
Excessive fuel pump noise.
-Subscribe for more diy mechanic tips & tricks like this one www.youtube.co...
-Playlist: "Project LB7 Duramax Spool Up" • Duramax Top Half Engin...
Symptoms Of A Bad Fuel Regulator
Other maintenance items I’ve done on this truck:
Fuel System:
-45% over sac nozzle injectors from LDS
-FASS Titanium Series Lift Pump: amzn.to/3eRGuUa
-Caterpillar 175-2949 Advanced High Efficiency Fuel Water Separator:amzn.to/3hA98Lc
-Caterpillar 1R0750 1R-0750 FUEL FILTER: amzn.to/3uVz73B
-AcDelco TP3018 Professional Fuel Filter with Seal: amzn.to/3hxO7kd
-OKAY MOTOR Fuel Pressure Regulator for 2001-2004 6.6L LB7: amzn.to/3n02izg
Oil filteration:
-Caterpillar 1R-1807 Oil Filter: amzn.to/3fnSImx
- 13/16"-16 to 1 1/8"-16 Oil Filter Adapter for Duramax CAT 1R-1807: amzn.to/3bwRgNo
Shocks:
- Bilstein (24-186735) 5100 Series Front Shock: amzn.to/3xlJSOG -Shock, 5100 Series, Monotube, Steel, Zinc Plated, Rear, GM Fullsize SUV/Truck 1999-2010: amzn.to/3l6O8wJ
Front End:
-Outer Moog ES3609 Tie Rod End: amzn.to/2S01U8v
-Inner Moog ES3488 Tie Rod End: amzn.to/3weN10Q
-Merchant Automotive 10012 Tie Rod Sleeve:amzn.to/3ftYVNN
-Moog K6654HD Pitman Arm, 1 Pack: amzn.to/3ygTyKh
- MOOG K6535HD Steering Idler Arm: amzn.to/3fofYRe
-Moog K6723 Idler Arm Bracket: amzn.to/2QrwpDT
Charging System:
- DB 130 Amp Alternator: amzn.to/3v4Zyne
- Dayco 5061123 Serpentine belt: amzn.to/3v1JT82
CV Axle:
-CV Axle Cardone 66-1325: amzn.to/32Kf4sd
Brake system:
-ABS Pump: - Genuine Parts 88935864 Brake Pressure Modulator Valve : amzn.to/3coW87i
-ABS Sensors: -ACDelco 19300584 Front Wheel Speed Sensor: amzn.to/3yMq1b1 Tools:
-Cardone 52-7359 Remanufactured Hydroboostt:amzn.to/3ymKjZk
-Dorman M630035 New Brake Master Cylinder: amzn.to/2Qs9V5R
-Dorman 919-254 Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit: amzn.to/3ylAk6c
-ACDelco 14D784MH Advantage Semi-Metallic Front Disc Brake Pad Set with Hardware amzn.to/3hvrZqD
-ACDelco Gold 17D909MH Semi-Metallic Rear Disc Brake Pad Set : amzn.to/3bwhT5i
-ACDelco 18A1193A Advantage Non-Coated Front Disc Brake Rotor: amzn.to/3uWf2tL
-ACDelco 18A1417 Professional Rear Drum In-Hat Disc Brake Rotor: amzn.to/2RrNKgn
- ACDelco 172-2406 GM Front Passenger Brake Caliper:amzn.to/3u1R8Mw
-ACDelco 172-2405 GM Original Equipment Front Driver Side Disc Brake Caliper Assembly amzn.to/2Surm44
-ACDelco 172-2405 GM Original Equipment Front Driver Side Disc Brake Caliper Assembly: amzn.to/3ykuDW7
-ACDelco 173-0551 GM Original Equipment Rear Driver Side Disc Brake Caliper Kit without Brake Pads or Bracket: amzn.to/3u4DdFv
-ACDelco 173-0552 GM Original Equipment Rear Passenger Side Disc Brake Caliper Kit without Brake Pads or Bracket: amzn.to/3opmH1g
Rear Diff Cover:
-Dorman 697-712 Rear Differential Cover: amzn.to/2Qtnyle
U-Joints:
ACDelco 45U0300 Professional U-Joint : amzn.to/3oqhRAT
Driveshaft Center Bearing
- Genuine GM Parts 88934865: amzn.to/3gvw3qi
Rear Bearings:
-ACDelco RW20-07 GM Original Equipment Rear Outer Wheel Bearing: amzn.to/3ylK14y
-ACDelco RW20-08 GM Original Equipment Rear Inner Wheel: amzn.to/33R3rjV
-ACDelco 291-319 GM Original Equipment Rear Axle Shaft Seal: amzn.to/3eQXRnX
#lb7duramax
#gmcsierra
#chevysilverado
#fpr
#duramaxfpr
I have a Dodge , I am looking for ways to remedy this, but it is an expensive problem. I do love the crumbling into dust dash feature though. And the way the rear view mirror falls out and hangs by the wires.
Great to see your channel growing 👊
That one was free 😎
My buddies has an old dodge with a dash just like that. Every time we we try to work on electronics, heater core, blower motor or whatever a piece or several pieces fall off 🤷 it was an Arizona truck though so it's to be expected in his case.
Great video!! Saved my truck. If you have issues with the fpr and your bit being straight, breaking off the plastic on the old fpr worked wonders for me
Thank you! And great tip for everyone 👍
W
I just finished watching a guy to the same dam job BUT he took off everything move ac moved alternator disconnected batteries removed radiator hoses removed thermostat housing, disconnected fuel line move wire harneses .I mean wow what a show he put on. This fucking guys pulls out a magnet steliscope and some small tools and takes nothing apart removes nothing fiddles with for how ever many hours and walla job is done . WELL DONE SIR !
hah! Thanks man :D I've seen that video you are talking about. He gets er' done that's for sure but man that was a lot of disassembly. As my friends dad always told us while growing up "keep it simple stupid. You'll make it easier on yourself in the long run". Words that have permanently shifted my approach to life. Cheers!
@@KooshdaakaaGarage What was the total repair time you took.
@@harvdown You know, its been a while since I did this but I think it took me around 3 hours or maybe a little more because of all the fumbling around I did trying to fit my mitts in the engine bay until got the technique down with the tools I showed in the video; that will include time I spent to make a store run to get the ratchet and 2" extension. This was my first Duramax FPR (so much easier on my SBC 350), but if I had to do another one I bet I could do it within a couple hours knowing what I know now.
Going to see if this is where mine is hopefully it works
Nice video and great channel. I'm about to drag home an '04 LB7. It starts pretty easy, not even that bad when it is fairly cold out, but is in limp mode. Owner says it needs a couple of injectors. Runs and idles smooth though. No lope. Might be an FPR. I'll probably throw on at it before I dig too deep. I haven't had a scan tool on it yet. Keep up the good work.
Congrats on getting an LB7 man!!! I've had mine for 5 years now and absolutely love it 🤘😁🍻 you can get $20 scan tool from Amazon and clear the limp mode which will restore full functionality of the transmission. Good place to start at least. Congrats again!
Mines going onto fuel limp 2000rmp no more sometimes on the highway up hill I’m thinking fuel lines but I could be wrong have been before
I have the same problem in my 2004 duramax
I'm going to change fpr thank you man
Thank you Mario. You got this! 🍻
I would pay the extra for a GM part and NOT a Dorman.
Good for you. Definite win
awesome video
Thank you my friend for the video mine is having that same issue with the lope at idle and code p0089. I thought it was going to require me to replace the CP3
You are very welcome. Best of luck to ya! It's easier than it looks :)
What was ur fix with the 89 code
Awsome
def helpful. glad it help with the fuel flow !!!!! maybe i'll get lucky 2 8)
You got this Tracy! 🍻
Some day science will genetically develop tiny beings that will be able to climb into those tight spots and get’er done. 😀 I have a new turbo horn on my work bench mocking me since last Christmas. Maybe some day!
Well done, sir 👍👍👍.
That will be the day! Or maybe they will make those little surgical robot arm contraptions they use in hospitals available to the everyday mechanic 😆 Man...If I could change my oil on a rainy day via RC robots I'd be a happy man, haha. Thanks Steve, I hope those little elves pay you a visit someday and get that turbo horn installed!
One more question what kind of scanner did you use to see the fuel injectors..where can I purchase one like that..thanks in advance
Thanks for the question Miguel! I picked up a PPE Xcerator amzn.to/3vx3ZqW from Amazon. Its a tuner/scanner in one. They are a bit more spendy than just a scanner but totally worth it. You can also find something like a TECH II to scan your injector rates. They are not quite as expensive.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage ok thank you...appreciate your advice
Really helpful video. I have 04 lb7 and It’s almost like it’s loping on acceleration, could this possibly be a fpr? Truck is all stock except lift pump
Loping can be a sign of the FPR going out or even a stuck open injector. Do you have access to a scanner? Can you read your actual vs desired fuel pressure to see if they are pretty rock steady or see if the actual is significantly higher or lower than desired? You should be able to test the balance rates too so you can see if your injectors are within spec (+/- 4).
I got a 04 lb7 and everything checked out so nothings broken or bent no blow by just did head gaskets and studs and it drove fine then the temperature outside got to -15 and I let it sit all week didn’t start it or nothing now it’s in a heated garage and when I start it it’s almost like an injector knock I already changed the crank sensor cuz a form said it could that or the fpr anyone got an idea?
Ah man that sucks! If you unplug the fpr and the knocking goes away then I'd suspect your fpr. You wouldn't happen to have a tuner or scanner that reads actual fuel pressure vs desired and/or injector balance rates would you? The knocking to me sounds like a possible injector issue such as a lifted injector from a possible pinched o ring on installation or the injector is stuck open. One thing you can do in the meantime to help bring that injector back around is perform a diesel purge with marvel mystery oil, I have a video showing you how to do it and which tools you need. You can also dump marvel mystery oil in your fuel tank and run it that way. It is made mostly of mineral oil, mineral spirit with a dash of heat polymer and carbon softener. I've used a quart of ATF in the fuel tank for similar effect. Out of the two methods the diesel purge worked best 👌 this will also run through your fpr and help with any potential clogging issues as well as lube up your fuel system.
How long is that 1/4" ratchet. Can't find at Home Depot. Longest is 7". Great video. Thx
Thank you Don! I just put a tape on the ratchet and it is 11 3/4" long Husky Brand. I just found this 12" - 1/4" ratchet on Amazon with a
flex head that will do the trick for ya too: amzn.to/2S3Fmnb
@@KooshdaakaaGarage Thx for listing the tools used and where to purchase them. The Gearwrench 1/4" drive ratchet showed some bad reviews saying the ratchet head broke off too easily because of poor material used.
Ah dang, I'll try to find a different one to put in the description! The Husky one I got at Home Depot is pretty solid. It does say on the ratchet to not use more than 46lb of torque on it though which is strong enough to remove the fpr 🤘🙂
Just noticed the lb7, would this apply to the lly as well? Looks like you only had to loosen the mouthpiece on the turbo? Seems on LLY that you’ve gotta not only take off mouthpiece, but also loosen the y bridge to get to the fpr? Just looking for an easier way than taking off compressor and all the other front junk.
I think it's similar enough that you can make it work without removing the y bridge. I think the fpr plug in is at a 90 degree angle but otherwise looks the same. Getting those tools that I used and bending the fuel line out of the way so you can reach all the screws was paramount to this install. It's a bit frustrating getting man hands down in there that's for sure. Does your y bridge stick out at rhe same angle as the lb7??
@@KooshdaakaaGarage I think in my case I’ll have to loosen my cold side, then pry y bridge up...after taking off cold air and mouthpiece. Thanks for the reply man!
@@adamslandservicellc7643 ah! I just looked at a photo of an lly engine bay. I think you are definitely on the right track man. Why is everything under everything else??? Haha. Cheers!
Hey man, I'm struggling with the bottom screw. Where can I find a long 1/4" ratchet? No one seems to have them. Any tips on that screw?
That bottom screw is an absolute beast. You can pick up the 1/4 husky ratchet I used at home depot. That, a t25 bit and a 2 inch extension will get the job done. I would also get a some long needle nose pliers like the one I used in the video to hold the scew in place because once its loose its flops around making the ratchet useless. The pliers help steady the screw for installation as well. Best of luck man.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage Thank you! Your videos are really good. I've had my truck for 3 years now. The injectors were easier than that screw!
Thank you!! I have to do the injectors soon. Its comforting to know the fpr is more of a pain. Haha
@@KooshdaakaaGarage The 5mm valve cover bolts were the worst part. They stripped easily. I got them out with an extractor socket when they stripped.
I’m working on a duramaxx right now and am thinking this may be the issue. There’s fuel all the way to the filter but the injector rails it’s low pressure. It seems almost like a vapor lock issue because the tank was drained (or so we thought) and then 2 times the fuel backed all the way up the fill tube without adding any… Any gear heads have advice ?
Man its a pain when that happens. Could be a few things like: failing cp3, failing fuel pressure relief valve. If you unplug the fpr and get full fuel pressure instead of low FP then you'll know it was your FPR.. vapor lock is pretty common. You can crack the high pressure lines at the fuel rail (not the injector you may get dirt in there) and see if air comes out . However if your filter housing is holding pressure without needing to be constantly primed then I'd venture to say it may not be a vapor lock.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage thanks for the reply i’m gonna try your advice in the am hopefully it’s the cheaper solution i know those injection pumps can cost a bundle !
So is that cheap fpr still working ?
Hell yeah it is!
Do you know whether this procedure is the same for a California LB7?
I'm not sure if your egr is in the way. But if not, then it should be the same procedure. The fuel pump is located in the same place.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage Thanks much - I'm getting the code for an abnormal fuel regulator problem. Engine sounds fine, though. I clear the code and it will be fine for quite a while. Seems to happen if I start the truck and go down the road without letting it set idling for a couple minutes first. I want to get it changed out, though, before I head up to AK. I appreciate your reply.
@mrpowerchute ah yeah, sounds like you are on the right track. Any chance you have a scan tool that can read desired and actual fuel pressure? That will help determine what the fpr is doing as well. Hey, good news is when you get up yo Alaska, we don't have emissions laws 😁
@KooshdaakaaGarage I'm not sure I have a fancy enough scanner that does that, but it may. I'll need to work on determining whether it does. We don't have emission laws where I am in WI, either. I just want the truck to run correctly. Thanks so much for your help!
Great video. I just bought an 04 lb7 with a zf6. I know its probably injectors, but lets say its not yet, would a bad fpr cause white smoke at idle and loss of power here and there? I have an Airdog 150 and factory fuel filter head totally bypassed. I made 2 trips to Louisiana from Houston in one day and the next day I noticed the white smoke. Thanks.
Hello WW Wilkes Jr, and thank you for your question! Sorry to hear about the white smoke. To answer your question, there is a possibility that a faulty FPR dumping too much fuel could cause white smoke. You'll want to check your actual vs desired fuel pressure to see if your actual fuel pressure is higher than desired indicating that more fuel is being dumped than can be burned. For me sadly white smoke was caused by both a stuck open injector and a lifted injector cup letting coolant into the combustion chamber. Have you already checked your balance rates? Here are some tests you can run to determine if its the injector: www.dipacodtech.com/WHITE-SMOKE-SERVICE-TIPS Also what may help is running injector cleaner through the tank to clear out any gunk that may be stuck in the FPR as well as in the injectors. Performing a diesel purge every once in a while helped un stick my injector in a pinch and got me through until I picked up a set of LDS 45% over sac injectors. If you are interested in the purge I have a couple videos on that too: ruclips.net/video/m9DrsuOrAGc/видео.html If it does turn out to be injectors, I'll be editing those videos here pretty soon so they will be available before too long as part of the "Project LB7 Duramax Spool Up" series. I went ahead and did head gaskets and studs, then rebuild the heads while I was in there since my truck has about 200k miles on it. Best of luck man, I hope it is a simple fix!
@@KooshdaakaaGarage I just found a boost leak on the hot side.
@@mylifeofchaos That would be the easy fix we were hoping for! Did it fix the issue? That should help the power loss for sure.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage is there an easy way to find which injector cup is the one lifted? I have an 02 Lb7 that has 2 injectors which balance rates are off but it is also loosing coolant very quickly. I think it might be both of those problems injectors and injector cups
@@yoel7127 unfortunately I don't think there is an easy way to determine which injectors are lifted without pulling them one by one. The off balance rates are a good indicator that something is wrong. Although my balance rates were sometimes right in spec and I still had a lifted injector. I had a lifted injector and an injector that would stick wide open sometimes. Is your coolant mixing with your oil or is it dumping into your piston chamber and burning up? When you change your injectors I would pull all the cups and re-seal them with red loctite just to be sure. When I did my injectors I also did head gaskets and studs at the same time. Then because I had the heads off I went ahead and rebuilt them and gave them a stage 1 hand port & polish to help them flow a little better. Rebuilding the heads were 100% worth it for me. The truck had just reached 200k miles and not all the valves were sealing.
Are you for hire I'm so dreading doing this on my LB7
It's like ripping off a band aide my friend, only it takes longer and hurts more! lol. I'll admit it is a frustrating job but if you use the same or similar tools that I used in the video then it's not as bad as it would be otherwise. Play some good tunes, sip on a cold snack and take deep breaths, you'll get it done!
Thank you for your video..Is that part good to order from Amazon or do you recommend buying from a auto parts store...im debating on where to buy it from..
Hey Miguel, thank you for the question! I've had the OKAY MOTOR installed for over a year now without any issues so I'd say go ahead and order one up. I listed a couple other options in the description if you wanted to get a closer look and compare them.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage ok thanks ill order it soon
Found your channel on Google
I have codes P1093 & P1094 I changed the fuel filter but air is in the tank , I primed and break the screw nothing but air is coming out can you help ?
How are all the rubber fuel lines? I had a similar issue due to rotted rubber fuel lines. You'll know they are bad if you see them wheep fuel. Also do you have a lift pump? And if so did you change the filters recently? I've had air vapor lock in one before. To fix it I turned the lift pump on, then loosen the fuel filter until the air pushed out then tightened it back up
No lift pump but I'll look into getting one ,also I noticed one fuel had a slight bend in it but I didn't straighten as yet will look at it tomorrow then let you know thanks a million for replying 💪
@trusttheprocess852 no problemo man, best of luck to ya!
So I just replaced mine last night. Upon start up my fuel pressure spiked to 24,000 I cleared the code and it came out of it after restart. Drove to town with it running great. This morning went to start it and made it halfway down my road, fuel pressure dropped to 1000 and it would only idle. Could this be a bad new regulator, or just random air pocket in the system?
Man, that is rough. What was the AFRP prior to installing the new FPR? Was the same thing happening before as it is now? Is your fuel filter housing holding prime or bleeding off? Any fuel detected fuel leaks? If no fuel leaks detected and if the fuel filter housing bulb holds its prime and feels pretty stiff then I would suspect one of three things: fuel pressure relief valve is blown and is leaking fuel back to the tank instead of holding pressure (pretty cheap fix. This can happen after one too many times of mashing the skinny pedal), FPR is defective, CP3 is starting to fail. Also..I know this one is sort of difficult, but you might check your wiring harness to make sure none of the wires are damaged or grounding out anywhere. I hope its something simple and relatively easy like the fuel pressure relief valve. Those are less than $30 I think. PPE makes a nice one that is essentially a plug so there is no spring to fail over time like the stock version. You can also get a stock one and install it if you want the safety feature.
Also check your soft lines to see if they are bubbling out fuel and in turn sucking in air. I had to replace mine recently.
Ok so do I have to bleed any air out after installing the new fpr?
Thank you for the question Hunter. You will not have to bleed air out of the fuel lines after. I don't recall there being significant fuel loss when I removed the old one but if you don't have a lift pump installed it wouldn't hurt to check prime at the fuel filter housing after install 👍
The fuel line you bend is it replaceable what is it called?
Hello el jr, and thank you for your question. That fuel line is replaceable, though I'm not sure what it is called. I believe that line feeds from the ficm to the cp3.
I am having the darndest time unscrewing the regulator. Holy crap I'm bout to just pay someone.
the struggle is real man. If you get the ratchet and extensions I used (link in description) then it's not as difficult to reach. Bending that fuel line out of the way so you can get the ratchet in there helps too. You got this man! 🍻
How do you check your fuel pressure with your ppe tuner because I can’t find it with mine
Hello Mark and thank you for your question. After your initial start up with the PPE tuner you'll have a list of options to select from. Choose "Data Scanning" this is where you'll see read outs for things like MAF, acceleration pedal %, barometric pressure, balance rates and actual vs desired fuel pressure. Once you open data scanning, scroll down past the injector balance rates and you'll see actual and desired fuel pressure. I made a PPE Tuner Demo video a couple years back that will show you at minute 8:28 how to access data scanning. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/3NyZYg4ba_I/видео.html&lc=UgyPhBLAQc3H28RHU5N4AaABAg
@@KooshdaakaaGarage mine just has a blank screen when I’m on the data scanning page
@@markcherry6513 really? That shouldn't happen. Your truck is running?
@@KooshdaakaaGarage no I’ve tried it with my truck off and fuses out and I’ve done it with it on. Maybe because I need it to be on stock power?
@@markcherry6513 hmmm. If you aren't tuning and you are just using data function then you won't have to pull fuses or anything. You should just have to plug it into the truck while the truck is off, turn key to accessory mode until the tuner runs its scan and tells you to start the truck. After that rhe data scan should work for you. Truck will have to be running to get a fuel pressure check ✔️
I've changed the fpr twice and both times fuel leaks from where the fpr seats against the injection pump. Even tried sealing with rtv but that only held for a few miles. Any suggestions?
Dang man that is frustrating. How did the O ring look when you removed the FPR? I know people have damaged those on installation and its easy to see why, there's no dang room for man hands to squeeze down in there. If it turns out to be the O ring, you might apply a little bit of grease around the ring and install as gently and straight on as you can. I felt like I was doing surgery when installing the FPR with how slow and methodical the actual movements were. Another possibility is the CP3 might be damaged and isn't creating a solid seal.
Will that cause your truck not to start
It should start with a bad fpr. One way to check is to unplug the fpr then start your truck. It'll run rough it it will run.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage ok thanks
What tool are you using to look at the pressures? I'm pretty sure mine going out. But the way your truck looks mint you guys don't used all the salt and crap up there?
One more thing, after a year is the Amazon FPR still holding up?
Hey Dan, thanks for the question! I used my PPE Xcelerator tuner to read the actual and desired fuel pressures. We definitely use salt on our roads, but I think they use gravel more than salt in the town I live in 🤔.
holding rock steady, my friend! kind of amazed really. From what I researched into OKAY Motor is they make a alot of ATV electronics so I imagine an FPR is pretty straight forward for them 👍
im putting a lift pump on my stock 2004 lb7 with 243,00 miles should i go ahead and replace this idk if mines ever been done and i didnt know if hooking it up would send to much fuel to the cp3 i heard with some pumps the fpr cant keep up with like 9psi or something like that any information is appreciated thanks
Hey Jarred, thanks for the question. Good move getting a lift pump. You'll notice smoother idle, and stronger pull throughout the rpm range, not to mention cleaner fuel going to your injectors! Unless your FPR is showing signs of fatigue (rough idle, lopey idle, fuel pressure is all over the place, poor fuel mileage) then I would leave it be for the time being. Those things are a pain to change and not the cheapest depending on which brand you go with. However, if your FPR is showing signs of fatigue then change it ASAP!!! Congrats on the lift pump again man, your Duramax will love ya for it!
@@KooshdaakaaGarage is there anyway I can message you to talk more about some things?? And what’s normal fuel rail pressure when driving I have a video to show you to see if you think my pressure is wacky I had it tested and it checked out good but on my cts monitor the Readings kind of have me being concerned lol I’m also new to diesels.. thanks for the information man and I’m glad to have a Duramax I’ve always wanted one
@@jarredtmiller Absolutely man! I created this facebook page to share in these endeavors :) facebook.com/ourtruckadventures Feel free to post your video in the feed and I'll see what I can to help.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage I literally just installed air dog 2 4 g 165 lift pump and everything was fine but recently I did a hard pull and it’s rough idling I think my fpr can’t keep up with the lift pump it has a rough shaking when I rev it up and at idle
@@KooshdaakaaGarage no knocks or loud noises just shaking
How on gods green earth did you get that horn off , wtf
Magic! 😁 watch the video around 2:45. You'll see i use a basic 10mm wrench for the top right screw. A long skinny ratchet for the screw on the left (a basic 10mm wrench works too) and the bottom required a bunch of socket extensions with a swivel bit at the end. Throw some tape around the swivel bit so its not floppy and can angle in to extract the screw. I also have a video when I first got that horn where I show you the handy extension hack. Best of luck!!!
Can you get the p0093 code for that?
Did you do some type of testing be side what you show with the scan toll?
Hey Ricardo, thank you for the question. I only used the PPE tuner that you seen in the video to test actual fuel pressure vs desired fuel pressure before and after as well to check the balance rates on the injectors before and after. Ultimately the new FPR coupled with a diesel purge I performed cleared up the rough idle/ idle lope, and fixed the hazy smoke issue. If you are having a similar issue, I highly recommend performing a diesel purge first to eliminate clogged injectors and clogged FPR.
Is been running good since then?
@@KooshdaakaaGarage what is that diesel purge?
Been running super smooth for the past month or so since I did the purge and changed the FPR. Smooth, no exhaust haze, restored power. Like a champ!
Glad you asked! I made a how to perform a diesel purge video you can check out here if you like: ruclips.net/video/zjQ3LnUJL6A/видео.html Essentially you disconnect the send and return fuel line after the fuel filter and run it into a jug of diesel purge like Liqui Moly (like I did in the video) or Marvel Mystery Oil. You can dilute it with diesel if you like or run it straight. I think next time I do it I'll use Marvel Mystery Oil because they seems like they are both pretty much the same ingredients, and Marvel is cheaper and you can buy a gallon of it. Marvel Mystery Oil has been around since the 1920 and is made mostly mineral oil with white mineral solvent, a carbon softener and heat buffer - the ole hot rod guys love running it in their fuel tanks and with their oil to keep things running nice and clean.
is the regulator still working?
Happy to report that the fuel pressure regulator is still regulating after a year of pretty heavy use. Billy the Kid would be proud.
Anybody know the torque specs on the fpr bolts ?
I got a new pressure regulator few weeks passed by and I filled up my gas tank the next day in the morning I got a p0089 code saying it's pressure regulator again I'm not sure what it could be now maybe I got a bad part
Ah man! P0089 is certainly a fuel pressure code. It can also be clogged filters, clogged, collapsed or otherwise failing fuel line, fpr wire damage, or maybe the fuel filter housing losing pressure? I hope you find it man and I hope it doesn't cause ya too much trouble.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage thanks il look into all that
Would a bad fpr send my lbz into reduce power?
It can, but not like "limp mode" reduced power. You can test this by monitoring your actual vs desired fuel pressure. You want the two numbers to be relatively close. Also you can disconnect your FPR plug in so that the FPR is no longer regulating. If your FPR is acting up, disconnecting should send full fuel to the injectors making a noticeable difference. If it doesn't make a noticeable difference and your "actual" fuel pressure seems low then there might be another issue such as clogged fuel filter, tired CP3, etc.
I definitely don't risk a $3000 Bosch fuel system with a cheap Amazon part man buy only cosmetic parts from Amazon do not buy any engine or fuel system parts from Amazon man trust me been in the diesel world since I was a kid did it professionally for over 10 years and unfortunately I couldn't stay away so I am back at it the emissions trucks drove me away but the money is just too good I work for someone who buys and sells I still refuse to put on any parts that didn't either come from a reputable performance company like dmax tuner fleece thoroughbred etc. Or the dealer you go ahead and try to get OKAY motors on the phone if you have a catastrophic failure
Fear is the path to the darkside.. I hear ya though man, loud and clear. Not sure how Bosch is doing now but 3 years ago their fpr were dang near 50% dead out of the box for the ole lb7, and the injectors were never that great until companies like S&S put sack nozzles on them. We just wont talk about bosch cp4s and will be thankful lb7 has cp3. The Okay Motor has worked great though 👌
I'm 100% aware of the cp4 issues I deal with them all the time on the LML and the 6.7 ford's but original new Bosch cp3s are very hard to beat for reliable replacement and I've never had a single issue with a Bosch regulator out of the box and I've put on so many I don't even want to think about it lol
Awesome.
fuck. this. truck. that shit sucked to get out i’m about to have a blast getting the new one in.
It was no walk in the park that's for sure. Congrats on gettin er done! 🍻
@@KooshdaakaaGarage surprisingly the install was a hell of a lot easier then the removal. i guess when you figure out the method in getting it out going in ain’t so bad
Good video but that’s a garbage FPR, you get what you pay for, Dorman is garbage as well, OEM Bosch or nothing
Hello Dave, thanks for your assessment, have you tried them before or no? The FPR has been working great for over a year now, thanks for asking. The OEM Bosch seem to have a 50/50 chance of being dead out of the box from peoples reviews who use em. So you either get a winner and it runs great or its dead and you have to rip it out and get another one. That being the case I figured it was worth the gamble to give the guys who have had great success making electronics for other applications. That is one of the fun things I do on this channel (and before I started this channel) is try things people are afraid to try and dispel or confirm myths. Thanks for playing along.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage lasting a year vs lasting the twenty years that these trucks have been on the road are two very different things, I’ve never had a dead Bosch out of the box, but I’ve replaced many dead Dormans🤷🏻♂️
@@dave194315 Guess I'll let you know in 20 years how we are doing :) If one doesn't try, one will never know. I haven't had a bad Dorman part in 20 years of wrenching. That is the luck of the draw though right? You can pay $250 for a dead sensor or $10 for a dead sensor. You can get 20 years out of a $250 sensor or 20 minutes and the same goes for the range of price tags.
@@KooshdaakaaGarage anything dorman besides their trim panels and plastics are junk, manifolds and electronic components etc have all gone prematurely in my experience, will never buy any of their functional products, you simply can’t deliver OEM quality for 1/3 of OEM price, doesn’t happen🤷🏻♂️
@@dave194315 I think that is where we will have to agree to disagree Dave. But debating ones anecdotal evidence over anthers is a futile effort, don't you agree? Good day sir.
Why cant yall chevy fan boys just say what year and model truck??
If you watch a few more videos you'll see I start off pretty much every video stating I'm working on a 2001 lb7 duramax gmc sierra 3500 crew cab long bed dually. In the case of a fuel pressure regulator "Lb7" is going to tell the viewer everything they need to know (assuming they are chevy fan boys and not ford or dodge fan boys). If I said 2001 gmc sierra 3500 and didn't say lb7 then the viewer may think I'm talking about the lq4 6.0 🤷♂️