Why Your Sump Pump Needs a Weep Hole
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- Опубликовано: 23 апр 2020
- On a sump pump, drilling a weep hole is recommended so air doesn't get trapped inside your pump system and cause air-lock. Our expert explains what a weep hole is, how to drill one, and where to put it on your pipe.
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Hello! Watch our Sump Pump Installation Video to watch us drill a weep hole, along with everything else, for your convenience: ruclips.net/video/b7LJKqASe8s/видео.html
I'm glad you said that it's perfectly normal for water to shoot out of the weep hole. That's what made me search for this video. Thanks!
Thanks, we're happy you found value in this video!
Silly question but does this weep hole have to be above water level or below or does it not matter ?
?????? You really needed someone to tell you that???? YOu have a HOLE in the discharge tube, WTF do you THINK is gonna happen when the pump is pumping?????
Have never heard of this, but now that I have, it makes total sense. Time to get my drill out. Thank You!
Glad to help!!
Thanks, I have been the lucky DIY dude. I just went and put weep hole in them. Thanks for the explaination.
Thank you for all your great videos! The are very educational along with being very helpful! Really appreciate you.
Glad you like them!
Great videos, thanks so much for doing them. Excellent info, down to earth delivery, nuts and bolts stuff. Well done you guys.
Thanks for the fantastic comment. Glad you enjoy our videos, thanks for supporting us!
Professional, easily understood, handsome gentleman.
Replacing a pump today. Thanks for the advice.
Good luck! Thanks for watching.
Excellent presentation. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Glad it was helpful!
Adding the weep hole does cause the head up to the check valve to drain back. This seems to add more noise and turbulence after adding the weep hole but it seems like a necessary thing to do
My sump pump failed, and had small amounts of flooding in the basement, in my panic i went out and just bought a sump pump, i used the old pvc pipe connector and as i plugged it in and to my relief it worked and got the water out, then i saw a hole spewing water out of the side of the pvc pipe n freaked out again and ended up plugging it up, (thanks to this vid its ment to be their, weep hole) now i gotta undo that. Reason why i came here i thought the new pump was defective because of a small hole on the bottom spewing water, thanks to this vid. Thanks for your info, youtube vids really help out!
Thanks for sharing your experience with us, and glad you found this information helpful!
Thank you Sir!
You are welcome!
I had a backyard sump pump running a couple weeks ago w/o anything coming out. I pulled it out of the pit, looked it over, saw nothing wrong, put it back and it was okay. Wasn't sure what happened. This video was recommended to me yesterday so today I checked and sure enough, there was no weep hole. I didn't know about this! I'm sure now it was airlocked. I drilled one so I'm all set now. Thanks!
That's fantastic! We're so happy this video helped you solve the problem!
the exact same thing happened to me a few weeks back. The effluent tank filled up and the pump wasn’t pumping. I pulled out the pump and looked it over. l had no idea what to look for. I put the pump back in and it started working just fine. No issues since. I have no weep hole. My pump is 20 yrs old so its time to buy a back up pump. I will be drilling a weep hole. I also recently installed a float alarm in case the effluent tank fills up again.
Right with angling the hole downward. I worked where no one installed the hole. When I had to do the install I read the directions and we were all surprised that they require the bleed installed.
Thanks!
You are very welcome, thanks for watching!
We just had a house built a year ago and the installers must've put the hole in a upward position because the water comes up instead of going down. Our foreman acted like that is normal and said that the cover wasn't installed the correct way. Anything to get out of fixing it.
@powerequipmentdirect
I have a weep hole, but during heavy rains I've had air lock issues. Any recommendations?
Is it necessary to install a vent on plumbing pipes evacuating water from a sump pump? Thanks!
I've seen pumps just spinning not pumping. I turn it off and back on again. I'm trying the weep hole thanks.
Thanks for a very informative video. I have a Flotec in-line check valve which is equipped with an anti-airlock hole located at the base of the threads to prevent air-locking the sump pump. Why doesn't all check valves have the anti-airlock hole already drilled by the manufacturer like the Flotec check valve? This would prevent a lot of future problems and less work for the installer.
Very true Pat, just about all threaded check valves have the anti-airlock or weep hole already drilled as you mention. It's the other style of check valves, slip-on, glue-in, compression styles that do not include that hole, and in most cases there is no room for that hole and you have to rely on the customer or installer to know about it and then install it. It's also typically referenced in pump installation manuals but unfortunately, not enough people read those.
Wayne sump pumps say that the weep hole is not necessary with their sump pumps. I just bought a SPF33, 1/3 HP, Coated Steel, 3750 GPH.
I have a check valve that will be just above the 2.5' deep sump hole, approximately a foot higher than the basement floor. Then it goes up about 8 feet, then out the sill to the outside.
- I would like to drill a weep hole just in case it might help in certain situations. With this Wayne pump, would it hurt to have one? Or would you recommend not to drill one?
- Does it make any difference if the check valve is attached to the base of the pump rather than up higher? I guess you cannot drill a weep hole if you are using a check valve that's attached to the base of the pump.
Hi, what happen if the wheep hole goes under the water? I have set up my sumppump float to a high level of water in order to lower the activation frequency, so the hole might be under water.
Thanks for this! I had a replacement pump installed and the guys rotated my pipe 180 degrees so that my original weep hole (drilled at a 45 degree angle) was spraying up above the basin lid. I lazily closed that hole and added a new one above the pump but below the basin lid so now there isn't a fountain in my utility closet when I'm not looking.
Thank you for watching and we appreciate your feedback here.
Does it make much difference if the weep hole is even to the top of the pump? Also if the hole is a little larger then 1/16th? I noticed it does spray a little out of the well when working and it's much louder now compared to past pumps i owned without weep holes. Neither really bother me but just curious if I will see bigger problems when a down pour comes through. Have a Zoeller 1/2 hp if that makes a difference.
Watch this video where we list some recommendations for drilling the weep hole, including angle, location, and size. ruclips.net/video/b7LJKqASe8s/видео.html
The M98 Zoeller Sump Pump installation booklet concerning the Weep states " When a Unicheck is installed, drill a 3/16" hole in the discharge pipe EVEN with the top of the pump." Note: the hole must also be below the basin cover and cleaned periodically. Even with the pump is different than 2 fingers up.
We appreciate that you've checked the owner's manual. Obviously we can't cover every possible recommendation for weep holes from every manufacturer, so we used the two-finger example as a rule-of-thumb for those who will not check the owner's manual like we recommend that they do. While some manufacturers will have slightly different recommendations, the most important part we want people to understand is that a weep hole is drilled on the discharge pipe lower than the top of the pump. Remember that the higher the weep hole is drilled, the more standing water will be permanently stuck in the discharge pipe below that hole. The two-finger rule minimizes water that remains in the discharge pipe after it runs and decreases the chance of an air bubble getting trapped between run cycles, because a lower weep hole is more likely to remain completely submerged in water a greater amount of time.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect Thank you for clarifying! I will use the 2 fingers up and yes, I have the Zoeller Model M98. Take care!
@@PowerEquipmentDirect So apparently the pump I replaced that was about 6 years old didn't have a weep hole or a check valve. My son-in-law who deals with pumps all the time at his job as a building engineer mentioned that we need a check valve (which we installed) but didn't drill a weep hole in either, lol. After installation the pump seemed to make a clicking noise when running so I wasn't sure if that was normal so I started digging through Videos and found this channel. Thanks for the advice on the weep hole which led me to pull the pump out and drill the hole exactly where you said and on an angle. Looking at my directions they were conflicting. The install manual had the hole a couple inches up but there was an insert I found later that had it level with the top of the pump. I appreciate your reply to @tonytrotta9322 to clarify this. The good news is that by drilling it lower or maybe just drilling it at all the pump is much quieter.
I have a Wayne pump and they specifically say that their pumps don't need a weep hole because (as they say) "WAYNE pumps also remedied the need for a weep hole, by developing a unique top suction design that pulls water from above the impeller, eliminating the risk of air locks, clogging and that pesky gurgle." So I assume, based on your advice, I should drill the weep hole anyway, is that right? Is there any possible downside to drilling a weep hole? Thank you. Great videos.
Actually, you're correct about the pump. Wayne's top suction design does virtually eliminate the possibility of any airlock and the need for a weep hole. That said, if you still want to drill a weep hole, it's not going to hurt anything. Just make sure you drill it in the right spot!
Thank you for this video. The weep hole on my system is too high and not at a downward angle. As a result it sprays all over and has caused a mold problem. Is there something I can do to fix it?
Thanks for watching. You could always remove the pump and drill a proper weep hole lower, and patch the malfunctioning hole. You could also start fresh with a new piece of PVC pipe and a properly drilled weep hole too.
OK, I get what you're saying, but I have 2 questions. I had a plumber install a pump for me and he drilled the weep hole on a downward angle. The water sprays out of the hole so forcefully, it causes a great amount of aeration in the water around the pump. Doesn't this risk introducing air into the pump too???? Also, the check valve is about 4 ft above the pump (in 2" PVC) and all the water drains out of the pipe below the check valve when the pump turns off. Doesn't this also have potential to cause air problems with the entire 4 ft length of pipe full of air? Everything is running fine right now, but it defies common sense, to me anyway. Besides, it's noisy as hell. I also have a pump in my crawlspace; been there for 20 years, no weep hole, never a problem, AND quiet!
It does not defy common sense and the weep hole is doing its job. Depending on how high up that weep hole was drilled, that might be the cause of all the noise and concern. We typically recommend drilling the weep hole no more than 2" to 3" above the discharge port of the pump. And while the other pump doesn't have a weep hole and has not experienced any issues, is like saying I've never had a leak in my car tires. It's always a possibility. But the weep hole will prevent any problems if and when it happens. Thanks for sending in your questions!
by the time I found my pump it had been running a long time. Steam was coming up out of the hole! The motor is toast, but I couldn't find any blockage or reason for failure. I suspect it got air locked (as I don't remember drilling a weep hole) and it ran until it died. Not sure, but I would say another reason to drill it is to prevent your pump from burning out.
Thanks for sharing your experience with others, and thanks for watching.
What if ur check valve is directly on pump?
I like your location for a weep hole better than most instructions. they say even with top of pump. I think that is to high. What do you think?
Where we placed it in the video is where we recommend drilling the weep hole to maximize drainage and minimize the risk of air lock.
have a few issues i have seen on my pump lately but not sure what to check first. it doesnt happen alot but sometimes it will run like its almost out of water and runs for a sec shuts off then turns back on keeps doing this till i add water or if i unplug it for a little bit then back in it turns on normally and pumps. when it does this seems like the check valve isnt closing all the way could it be clogged sometimes then not closing then getting cleared up then closing. i thought it also could be a air lock issue.
Hi Jason, it could be a few things. I would suggest that you call the pump manufacturer or call us and we can try and diagnose further. We can't over social media though. Our help center has our phone number as well: www.sumppumpsdirect.com/contact_us.php
@@PowerEquipmentDirect figured it out was actually the float valve switch I changed the whole pump the while I had it out. The switch was worn to a point it would not stay in the on position when the float reached the top. As soon as the float dropped with the water the extension from the switch would drop and shut the pump off. Idk if you see this ever really but was kinda weird till I figured out what it was doing exactly.
@@Kohler61350 Happy to hear that you figured that out Jason! We see all kinds of things and almost nothing really surprises us anymore.
I moved into a trailer home and have to re place my pump and I installed a cast iron 1/2 sump pump for aerobic system because I have 2 sprinklers that dispose of the waste water and it’s making a humming sound I drilled a vent hole about the discharge buy my pit is really big so at the moment I have a lot of water in there and the water is covering the vent hole should I make another vent hole were there is no water covering it or ?
We would need to know what pump you are using, and what diameter weep hole you have drilled. It's possible you just need to clean that weep hole on a regular basis which is normal.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect I have a 1/2 Hp everbilt sump pump and I drilled a 3/16 hole
@@miguelcruz7404 If you’re referring to the “weep” hole, it doesn’t matter if that hole is under water or not, Miguel. The "weep" hole should always be drilled in your discharge pipe to prevent an air lock. This is true in sump and sewage applications. Air locking on a sump pump happens when there is air between the pump and the check valve of the discharge line. The trapped air prevents the impeller from drawing in enough fluid to open the check valve to allow discharge. The weight of the fluid on the topside of the check valve keeps it closed. The problem is often noticed after the initial use, when the pit has had time to dry out during a dry spell. When it gets water in the pit again, the air lock condition shows up. The pump runs due to the float switch being raised, but can't eject the water because of the air lock condition.
I suggest that you drill a 1/8" or 3/16" hole in your PVC discharge pipe, approximately 4" above your pump's discharge port and well within the inside of the basin. Drill the hole at a 45 degree angle so the hole is pointing toward the bottom of your sump basin. Water will be discharging from the weep hole when your pump is operating. This is completely normal. A typical installation will have the check valve positioned about 2-3 feet above your sump basin cover. If the check valve is screwed directly into the sump pump's discharge port, there is really no place to drill the weep hole, but also less of a chance of air lock due to the positioning of the check valve. The only problem with installing the check valve directly into the pump's discharge port is that it takes more power and effort for the pump to start due to the added weight of all the water sitting above that check valve, especially if your head is 8 feet of higher. When the check valve is installed above the basin cover, it reduces that starting power and also makes for a much easier method of replacing or performing maintenance on your pump and system.
I've built septic pump systems and installed zillions. We never put a weep hole in any of them. Most were new systems but even in replacements with a full tank of liquid we put the plumbing on then lowered them into the tank and hooked up the union joint, wired it, and ran them with no issues. No call backs. Curious, did we get lucky, or was it because we didn't put check valves in them? Didn't want water stuck in the pipe freezing where we are. Makes sense. I'm one of those installers that never heard of it I guess. Was years ago. Maybe they didn't know to do it then.
The "weep" hole as it is called should always be drilled in your discharge pipe to prevent an air lock. This is true in sump and sewage applications. Air locking on a sump pump happens when there is air between the pump and the check valve of the discharge line. The trapped air prevents the impeller from drawing in enough fluid to open the check valve to allow discharge. The weight of the fluid on the topside of the check valve keeps it closed. The problem is often noticed after the initial use, when the pit has had time to dry out during a dry spell. When it gets water in the pit again, the air lock condition shows up. The pump runs due to the float switch being raised, but can't eject the water because of the air lock condition.
We recommend drilling a 1/8" or 3/16" hole in your PVC discharge pipe, approximately 4" above your pump's discharge port and well within the inside of the basin. Drill the hole at a 45 degree angle so the hole is pointing toward the bottom of your sump basin. Water will be discharging from the weep hole when your pump is operating. This is completely normal. A typical installation will have the check valve positioned about 2-3 feet above your sump basin cover. If the check valve is screwed directly into the sump pump's discharge port, there is really no place to drill the weep hole, but also less of a chance of air lock due to the positioning of the check valve. The only problem with installing the check valve directly into the pump's discharge port is that it takes more power and effort for the pump to start due to the added weight of all the water sitting above that check valve, especially if your head is 8 feet of higher. When the check valve is installed above the basin cover, it reduces that starting power and also makes for a much easier method of replacing or performing maintenance on your pump and system.
Brent, It is only my opinion, but I think that you make the most sense to me for many or most situations. It is my opinion that the answer to create or not create a weep hole should be based on your "SET OF CIRCUMSTANCES". I am thinking that the weep hole only makes sense if you are using a check valve or if the siphon effect is not properly controlled. The check valve only makes sense to me, if the sump pump outlet does NOT have an "air gap" to the water that the sump pump is discharging. My thinking is, that as long as there is NO check valve in a sump system with an "air gap" to prevent the re-balancing of the water in the sump impeller area and the sump pump pipe, then the water will automatically re-balance from the gravity of the water. It is my opinion that SOMETIMES It MAY be BETTER NOT to have a check valve because it creates an extra way for water to be trapped and frozen above the check valve. It seems better to allow the water to fall back into the sump rather than to freeze in the pipe. As long as the sump pipe has an air gap to the water that the sump pump is discharging, then the water in the pipe going back into the basin should be minimal (about a quart or less?). My sump system has worked well without either a weep hole or a check valve for about 25 years now. Regardless of my sump pump instructions that say I should put in a weep hole, I fear that putting the weep hole in will cause more trouble than it will solve for my particular situation. If I am wrong. then perhaps someone could please explain how or why I am wrong?
@@FredHinge100 I understand your thought process Fred and tend to agree with you for the most part. In cases where the vertical lift is minimal (
I have a primary pump, and a battery back up pump installed a bit higher up. The primary pump works well, but the back up only runs without pumping. What could be the cause?
We're not sure based on that description. Perhaps the impeller is loose and not spinning? You need to contact the pump manufacturer.
I have question I’m afraid of putting in a check valve because I’m afraid of the water freezing in the pipe. Is there another solution or just wrap the pipe with insulation? Thanks
That would really depend on your specific setup, Frank. Insulation is an option as well, as a heat tape wrap, as long as it’s designed for the piping you are using. There are also other possible options available, again, depending on your setup.
I hope you can help me. I replaced my sump pump a couple years ago and it ran flawlessly for 2 years. It has a weep hole, I never knew what it was until I started to investigate, I initially thought my pipe was cracked or something. Well all of a sudden, it got air locked. I unplugged it plugged it back in and it ran fine and shut off. I replaced the check valve thinking that might be the problem. Well, it still gets randomly air locked. I replaced the valve on 1/29/23. I just checked today to make sure it is functioning and it is....I am not sure what to do. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill
Without looking at it, it's difficult to diagnose a problem. However, check where your weep hole is located. If it's too high on your pipe, it could create air lock issues in the wrong circumstances, as the higher the hole is, the more water remains below it, inviting potential for air to remain in the pipe. There also could be a crack or broken seal on your discharge piping somewhere, which can make your pump system behave erratically.
Thanks!! I actually found the problem. My sump pump had 2 check valves on it for some reason. One on the wall, which was the only one I thought I had, and one on the pipe where it attaches to the outlet. I went and bought a new pump and as i was cleaning up the old one and the discharge pipe I heard a rattle. Well the valve broke off and was floating around in about a 2 inch space. Every once in a while it would block it just right and cause an air lock. I had to cut it out with side cut it out with side cutters piece by piece because I would not come out the bottom or the top.
Do pedestal sump pumps need a weep hole as well? Currently running into an issue that looks like a classic air lock issue. Water being discharged but very slow, dripping almost with a motor constantly running.
Thank you for your interest in Sump Pumps Direct. The "weep" hole as it is called should always be drilled in your discharge pipe to prevent an air lock. This is true in sump and sewage applications. Air locking on a sump pump happens when there is air between the pump and the check valve of the discharge line. The trapped air prevents the impeller from drawing in enough fluid to open the check valve to allow discharge. The weight of the fluid on the topside of the check valve keeps it closed. The problem is often noticed after the initial use, when the pit has had time to dry out during a dry spell. When it gets water in the pit again, the air lock condition shows up. The pump runs due to the float switch being raised, but can't eject the water because of the air lock condition.
We suggest that you drill a 1/8" or 3/16" hole in your PVC discharge pipe, approximately 4" above your pump's discharge port and well within the inside of the basin. Drill the hole at a 45 degree angle so the hole is pointing toward the bottom of your sump basin. Water will be discharging from the weep hole when your pump is operating. This is completely normal. A typical installation will have the check valve positioned about 2-3 feet above your sump basin cover. If the check valve is screwed directly into the sump pump's discharge port, there is really no place to drill the weep hole, but also less of a chance of air lock due to the positioning of the check valve. The only problem with installing the check valve directly into the pump's discharge port is that it takes more power and effort for the pump to start due to the added weight of all the water sitting above that check valve, especially if your head is 8 feet of higher. When the check valve is installed above the basin cover, it reduces that starting power and also makes for a much easier method of replacing or performing maintenance on your pump and system.
In your expert opinion is Zoeller the standard or most used and reliable pumps on the market?
We're confident saying they are one of the most trusted names in pumps - not due to advertising - due to years in the field making reliable pumps that truly last because they are built very well. Hope that helps!
Waiting to hear whether my plumber will consider ME drilling the weep hole as me voiding their warranty/install. Mine flooded my utility room today due to an air lock. Plumber tells me it isn't necessary and they never do it. Liberty manual says it should be done. Not sure why they aren't following manufacturer recommendations. Seems like a very basic insurance/preventative maintenance plan and could have saved me three hours of cleanup.
Sorry to hear about your experience. You are correct: drilling a weep hole in the discharge has NO effect on the warranty and is typically recommended to be done by most manufacturers. Your plumber was not following best practices if they said they never drill a weep hole. If it's in the manual, it's the way it should be done.
It would be helpful to know if the weep hole should be drilled above the max water level before the pump turns on or below the max water level. I have read both are recommended by different websites and each one seems equally certain. Thank you.
There are different schools of thought on which is best, but we recommend drilling the hole about 3 inches above where your piping connects to the pump. Check out this video where we demonstrate drilling the hole. Look in the video description, we have a timestamp you can click to bring you right to that section: ruclips.net/video/b7LJKqASe8s/видео.html
Should I take water out which came from discharge pipe or just drill hole in pipe?
We have an installation video that explain how to drill a weep hole. Please check it out: ruclips.net/video/b7LJKqASe8s/видео.html
Could I email you and send a picture to see if my pump is doing normal things from this hole.
If you haven't already, give us a call and we'd be happy to assist you. 888-455-4682.
Do you need a weep hole if the check valve is screwed directly into the pump?
Whenever my sump pump runs, my kitchen sink drain makes loud noises, and sometimes spits out water. Might this be from the lack of a weep hole?
It’s done this for years and my mom never minded that much, but I’d like to stop this once and for all of I could. If solving the problem is this easy, I’d be relieved!
A sump pump is meant to pump groundwater from your drain tile and, depending on your system, drain water from various utility pipes (humidifier, laundry, etc.) into the sump pit before being expelled through the discharge pipe. A kitchen sink drain should definitely not be backwashing with water when the pump runs, but if it is, it may be discharging directly into the sump pit which may not be up to building code. We strongly suggest you contact a plumber who can verify your plumbing was installed correctly, as it's unlikely that a lack of weep hole is the reason for the problem you're experiencing.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect Thanks for answering! Just wanted to clarify some things. Not sure if it’s important, but my sink does this usually right AFTER the sump pump turns off, like just as it stops running. It’s very brief when it happens (like usually only a second or two). I’ve read this might have to do with trapped air, and I’m wondering if the water being spit out on occasion is just the water that’s sitting in the trap underneath the sink. Is that a possibility? Thanks again.
Do I still need this if I have a clean out already?
We always recommend drilling a weep hole, no matter what your setup looks like. It doesn't affect any set up negatively.
I drilled a weep hole but it seems to be spraying a little outside of the tank. Any ideas of how to get it directed more downward? Thought it was at 45 degrees but thinking it is hitting my backup pipe and spraying. Any ideas?
Usually 45 degrees downward angles are enough, but in your case it might need to be slightly lower and a steeper angle. We recommend a weep hole is drilled a 1/8" or 3/16" hole in your PVC discharge pipe, approximately 4" above your pump's discharge port and well within the inside of the basin. Drill the hole at a 45 degree angle (or more in your case) so the hole is pointing toward the bottom of your sump basin. Now that you know it's hitting a backup pipe, you can change the location of the hole as well. You should patch the other hole after the new one is drilled. Water will be discharging from the new weep hole when your pump is operating. This is completely normal.
You can also consider getting a sump pit cover to block the water from getting outside the hole, but that's not a long term solution.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect great information. What can I use to patch the current hole. I’m realizing now it is too high and needs to be in a different location. Thanks for your help
To be specific, patching a hole is still not better than replacing that section of the pipe, which would be the best thing to do. If you choose to patch, you can use a waterproof epoxy, found in most hardware stores in the plumbing section. We can't guarantee patches will last any length of time though, so be mindful you may still need to replace that section of pipe in the future if it doesn't hold or other issues arise. We have a video that demonstrates a replacement of some pipe in the context of installing a check valve, so check that out too for a visual: ruclips.net/video/b7LJKqASe8s/видео.html
@@PowerEquipmentDirect I put a 1-1/2" radiator clamp over the hole in the pipe and drilled a correct hole on the pipe.... works fine now.
Hello I have two sump pump and they don’t pump water it runs but don’t pump out water and it have a weep hole and every thing is clean
It could be an issue with your check valve not properly allowing water to be pumped due to a leak or a blockage inside the pipe. You might consider replacing the check valve and continuing to troubleshoot the pipes. It also could be a suction issue on the pump itself if it runs but no water is being pumped.
What if the check valve is installed directly into/after the pump?
That really depends on the installation and total vertical lift on the discharge. Typically, if you have a moderate
There is a clunk on my neighbors sump everytime the sump turns off. Would a weep hole stop this?
The clunk is from the check valve. This guy addresses it: ruclips.net/video/qPPK9Mb7TLo/видео.html
It might and it might not, John. It might be due to an old check valve that needs replacing. We do offer a few “Quiet” check valves and these could very well make a difference, but we would also need to know the system setup, discharge pipe diameter, total vertical lift and the current check valve placement height. Are you also using a battery backup system and if so, how is everything piped in? To discuss further, please give us a call. 888-455-4682.
After drilling a weep hole now is a huge noise water drained down after pum stop before was very quiet smooth discharge 🥵
Should there be holes on the bottom of the pit bucket
Not really sure what you mean by holes at the bottom, but generally holes are not useful to have in a sump pit. A pit is meant to retain water until it gets to a certain height, which then triggers the sump pump to activate and pump all the water through the discharge pipe. If you live in the suburbs/city, there may be an additional pipe toward the top of the pit which would discharge the overflow water (in case of pump failure) into the main drainage line of your home. It's more of a redundancy but this will vary greatly depending on local building codes and municipalities.
Doesn’t water escape through the weep hole ? Defeating the purpose of expelling water out?
The purpose of a weep hole is to drain water from the line to prevent air bubbles from getting locked up and sucked into the pump. It's the water drainage and the hole allowing air/water to escape that prevents air lock.
I have a weep hole but no water spits out it? Is that normal?
Watch your pump's weep hole while the pump is activated and see if water is being pumped out. Once the check valve closes and the pump turns off, watch the hole to see if there is drainage.
3:25 Pump has its own weep hole and check valve needs another one? What's the difference?
The hole that comes pre-drilled on a pump prevents air from locking up inside the pump, whereas it does nothing to prevent air from locking up while it is being discharged through the rest of your piping and through your check valve. This is why you need to drill a weep hole on the piece of piping that runs between your pump and the check valve, so the air has a place to escape.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect, my check valve is up 5'. Is there water in that 5' that is held up by negative pressure of valve? So all that would drain out with a hole. What's the downside of having it drain out? I think the sump has high off setting so always keeps sump water high to not go dry?
If you don't have a weep hole in that 5' of pipe, they yes, whatever water doesn't pass through your check valve stays in the pipe and you run the risk of an air bubble receding back into the pump, which could cause possible damage to the pump. The weep hole, drilled near the base of the pipe that connects to the pump, allows the water that is trapped in the pipe to drain into the sump pit after it is emptied, instead of being stuck in the pipe indefinitely.
Long story short, there is no downside to drilling a weep hole in the proper place and we recommend it on every sump pump installation.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect, can I have two check valves in series?
@@1weirddoe571 We're having trouble understanding why that would be necessary. Some people try to pipe 2 pumps to a single discharge pipe, but every pump should have its own check valve. In most cases, 2 check valves seem redundant.
but a weep hole on a car's water pump? Does that leaking hole mean that seal and bearing are now too loose/ worn.
This video is intended to cover sump pump applications. A vehicle's components serve different purposes and should be considered unique to that application, so we recommend consulting your owners manual or seeing a certified mechanic/dealer about potential leaks or other concerns about a vehicle.
Why wouldn't the air just get pushed past the check valve?
It would. This is for the pumps protection not the pipe. That’s the only incorrect thing in this video.
Thought they came integrally zoellers do
Most sump, sewage & effluent pumps do have an air relief hole somewhere in the pump base that is designed to help prevent air lock within the PUMP. The weep hole is recommended to help prevent air lock between the pump discharge port and check valve.
I drill holes in them myself but seen thousands that didnt
unfortunately it's one of the most overlooked parts about sump pump installation. Many installers at the time just weren't aware of it, regardless of it being in the installation manuals. It should be part of every single installation process.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect my next sump pump venture will be for a liberty 290 oil separator with alarm for a new elevator installation, I dont see it in tha Ma. Code But Boston I.S says I need it
We always recommend following local and state codes. Because of the important nature of that application, we recommend you follow those codes. If you have questions, you can reach out to the equipment manufacturer or the state to get clarification or more details. Pumps used for elevator applications are different in nature to simple sump pump applications.
Dude, Blackhawks are lame, Lets Go Rangers!
Hockey is hockey.
Thanks, Dad!
Thanks for watching.
My valves are at the threads…. It was part of a kit and it’s threads, then the rubber counter or to the valve…. It’s that ok or do I need to drill the rubber?
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