I used this method just as it was described and install went smooth and easy. I cant believe no one else shows how to decompress the spring this way! Piece of cake! Thanks for the great instructional video!
Been lowered about a year now and love it. Roads suck, but worth the grip and not feeling floaty over 100mph. SR springs - Koni yellows shocks struts- BMR relocation brackets , BMR upper control arm with mount, and BMR panhard bar, - J&M lower control arms, stock strut mounts(one replaced after disassembling itself) , and cut down FRPP jounce bumpers, BFG sport comp 2 tires on 19x8.5" wheels. Corners like a boss now!!! (literally like a 302 lol).
i literally just got done doing springs on my 2011 GT and this video is exactly the same as what you need to do. no spring compressor, every thing pulls out and installs just fine. hardest part was finding the right sockets to use.
11ahsvikings They didn't use a compressor for this particular car, but when I tried the same method for my base v6 mustang, the spring was very tall and pushed the wheel hub/rotor all the way down and was stretching the brake line. Everything was in a bind and it was hard as fuq to get the spring/strut out. My suggestion is even if you have a performance pack mustang like the one in the video, do get a spring compressor! Just take the strut and spring out together without taking off the center nut, then use a spring compressor to take the spring off of the strut. It's just easier this way. You can rent a compressor from an auto parts store for $60-$70 deposit, and you're refunded the whole amount when you take it back.
this video is the best way in installing the front springs because u dont need to use a spring compressor for the fronts just simply following this trick and you'll be fine. thanks! best procedure!
Stock shocks and struts are perfectly fine. If they are higher mileage it is the perfect time to upgrade since it will all be apart. Good thinking on the GT500 strut mounts! I would never install springs without replacing the strut mounts especially on a 05-09 model.
It is just like he said I did it on my '14 GT. I recommend renting spring compressors from your local Auto part store. That spring can be dangerous. I almost lost my middle finger when it got caught between the disk and the lower control arm. I could not imagine going through life with only an 8th of my middle finger. I am glad I still have it just in case I need to use it.
I just swapped out the rear springs on my '05 (had Motorsport P springs, swapped in BMR springs), I didn't touch the swaybar as even with the suspension at full droop it was not in the way of the shock bolts coming out. However I do recommend removing the clips on either side that hold the brake line to the frame (where the flex line connects to the hardline, right in front of the axle behind the wheel). If you drop the axle with the shocks removed and those clips are still on the frame, it puts a LOT of stress on that flex line!
2008 GT500. I did mine a little different. I have the BMR 1.5" lowering springs. NOTE: The wrench or vise grip(what i used) used to hold the end link bolt goes right behind the bracket(middle) and NOT at the opposite end. I had a lot of trouble trying to align the 4 bolts of the mounting bracket to the car when i tried to follow the video(with spring compressor too) and the way I ended up doing it was easier. I installed the upper mounting bracket to the car and slowly raised the LCA with new spring until the strut bolt was in the center hole of the mount and the spring was aligned with mounting bracket. Then I kept the LCA/rotor raised and lowered the whole CAR. Strut went right into place and then tightened it.
8 months later when I look back on how my install went. I will tell you this for your own good/safety and making the job easier. Use spring compressors for the fronts!
Great vid I spent all day with the ugly spring compressor from auto zone, on one wheel trying to get the spring back right. I’m gonna try your method. But wondering will this work with bmr I hope so.
thanks for your experience. But I've already lowered the car on SR performance springs. Lost all kinds of traction lmao! I have ordered bmr relocation brackets, already have a bmr adjustable panhard bar, and upper control arm here waiting to be installed. The springs are definitely more bouncy when combined with the factory shocks and struts as the struts want to return to the factory springs height over any medium deflection or bump. I've already committed to changing the suspension geometry from the time I bough the 19" TSW Nurburgring wheels , so no going back now lol. Just need to get the relo brackets , and then next summer shocks , struts, and depending on how money is, TURBO that BYTCH!!! 😁😝😜❕❕
Lastly , I hear people talking about driveshaft pinion angle or something, and needing adjustable control arm brackets or spacers. Is there anything to this pinion angle stuff. Stock driveshaft , and I go to the drags a bit, so car can see triple digit speeds pretty regularly...
You commented that you'd never install springs without replacing the strut mounts,…in the video the mechanic re-used the factory strut mounts. You see what I'm seeing? Koni now offers a street strut that is compatible with 11+ strut mounts. Just ordered them from AmericanMuscle and I ordered the BMR springs from LateModelRestoration.
Is lowering springs safe to use on the stock struts and shocks. I was wondering cuz I was thinking about picking a set up and don't want to spend a lot of money but I also want to do it right by getting a panhard bar and gt500 strut mounts and maybe camber bolts just to be safe. That's one thing I'm worried about is it throwing the front end out of wack and not driving like it did before.
It should be needed,only dropping a inch or so should be alright i would think.on my truck i got 5/8 drop and they alighned with only -1 camber.bought offset balljoint now it perfect.but that with massive drop,one inch should alighn without problems
Wanting to lower my 2011 V6 as the wheel gap is horrific. Plan to use the SR performance springs(1.5/1.5"), and all the factory hardware. Do I need caster/camber bolts , and a strut mounts? I only have 36k in miles. What do you guys consider "high mileage" to need strut and shock replacement. I May pick up an adjustable panhard bar too , but I only want to buy parts if they are necessary , but definitely want it done right. Budget is right about 500.
Well, the Camber bolts only give you a few degrees in leverage. To get the front tires back into place, Firestone as well as every other mechanic I know recommended to add the Adjustable Camber strut plates. There's some people on the forums that swear up and down saying you don't need it, don't listen to them. My front end is still out of whack. Now moving onto why you shouldn't lower it. Do you know what exactly is going to happen when you lower it? I did it to my Mustang and it was the worse possible thing I could do to it. The ride is sh@t and you can't take it down roads that are slightly bumpy. I put better struts and shocks and no difference. Except maybe the car didn't dip as bad. Which is more livable than hitting a bump in the road and your whole car pulls into it. Also, you'll eat shocks. I blew through 2 stock ones and a koni after lowering it. It's not the springs to consider with this build, it's a commitment. You will also need a new pan hand bar since the rear will be out of alignment. I think my only positive remark to this springs is the turning capability and body roll decreased. I'm gonna save my money for a sway bar rather than these awful springs.
I am REALLY wondering if this process will work on my 2008 Convertible (California special) ...Can you comment because everyone says you need a spring compressor...this would save a lot of time (your method) but I would be in a heap of trouble if it didn't work ...PLEASE reassure ....:-)
i have these springs about 2 1/2 years and lately I've been getting a clunk in the front end over some bumps any idea what it could be before i start blowing money ???
Hey man , I installed some ford racing lowering springs on my 2012 5.0. And the rear springs are installed with the coils that are closer together at the bottom. Did I install them upside down ? Also the coils are touching each other , literally touching, on the half of the spring that is spaced closer, which is the bottom of the spring the way I have it installed. Is this right ?
James - That is correct. All 05-14 S197 Mustangs utilize a MacPherson strut design. This means that the spring is compressed over the strut shaft and held in place via an upper strut mount. -Landan
Late Model Restoration Landan do i need caster plates or camber bolts? My suspension is stock 05 gt convertible with 49k on it and I just bought the sve Springs and a adjustable panhard bar
So if you’re like me doing this on jackstands instead of having the miracle of having a lift, do not take the middle bolt out until after you drop the front strut. If you happen to lose grip on the top part the bearing will fall off and the metal beads will come flying out.
Good Video, But my problem was "and all my own fault" I'm going the other way , putting original springs back in and the problem is you need some spring compressors.
This is a good video, but I just don't get it. After researching tons of stuff, most say if you put in lowering springs, then you have to have an adjustable pan hard bar, then strut mounts, then sometimes a bump-steer kit, etc... If you lower your mustang, what all do you really need to do it right and not mess up the steering or tracking of the back axle?? This vid makes it sound like put in the springs and you are done. Need the reall story.
TJ Brinks Adjustable panhard bar is not necessary on all lowering springs. It is recommended on springs over a 1" drop. This car already had a full suspension on it - including panhard bar. I would recommend GT500 strut mounts if you have a higher mileage Stang. In most cases it is better to just replace them if you want to be safe and avoid the annoying "popping" sound coming your front suspension. This car has very few miles on it so we just re-used them. This video is to help walk you though the spring installation only since we get so many questions about it. If you want to take the guess work out of a lowering kit for 05-14 cars check out this kit -- www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/SVE-5300CK-KIT/SVE-Performance-Suspension-Kit-Mustang-11-14
***** Thanks for the reply. I have a 2005 V6 Convertible. The kit you directed me to adds yet another piece, the lower control arms! Most lowering springs list >1" drop so i guess panhard bar is needed. So now I have this list... Springs, strut mounts, panhard bar, Camber adj bolts (I guess they couldn't hurt). I notice Eibach has a pro-system that includes dampers and bump stops. I do plan on replacing shocks and struts with stock ones when I do all this. So are the control arms important to add? What about bump stops?
TJ Brinks If you are thinking about a set of shock and struts, do it when installing springs. This will save you the headache of coming back and redoing the front suspension disassemble again for the strut install. You can take advantage of our Koni Sale we have going right now on the struts and shock. See link below. Bump stops are not required. Many people delete them or even cut down their factory ones. www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Koni-Shocks-Struts
TJ Brinks for a 05-09 model check out the link below. The front lowers are problematic with worn out bushings. When doing this install it would benefit you to replace the control arms being that you don't have to disassemble your front suspension again to do control arms down the road. If you are referring to the rear controls arms. They do eliminate wheel hop but not needed for lowering your Mustang ruclips.net/video/h2XA0xzMNZ4/видео.html
***** I tried tackling the job today and it ended not so good even when using the exact methods and tools here. First, when trying the method shown in this video of lowering the jack with the strut mount nuts removed, the stock (base v6) spring still had quite a bit of compression left in it. When I took out the top lower strut bolt as shown, the still compressed spring made the hub/rotor instantly swing outward, hitting my knee, that hurt... Second, I wasn't careful enough nor knew how to to properly remove the strut mounts as they both have lost a bunch of bearings. I wasn't even aware that they separate into two pieces. So now I'm spending $200+ more than I wanted to for new strut mounts, and forced to put it back together and do the rears tomorrow night. Not happy about this. People, use spring compressors after taking the spring and strut out of the car, and keep it standing strait up, possibly with a bag over it or something to keep from losing bearing balls should it get away from you somehow!
joshnc101 My name is Jeff, shoot me an email and I'll make sure you we get some help. Having broken strut mounts is actually a very common finding on S197 Mustangs. Once the bearings get wear and tear they break down and even fail. I've seen plenty of these be completely separated when I've taken them off. That is why most S197 Mustang owners install GT500 strut mounts every time they install new springs. jeff.jimenez@latemodelrestoration.com
***** I got the car back together today and after carefully assembling the spring and struts with the new "two piece" strut mounts it was a breeze getting it back together and then doing the rear springs. Funny thing yesterday... The dealer got me the wrong strut mounts which were for older 05-10 mustangs, mine is a 2013. I hands down like them much better as they don't separate to two pieces, but I can't afford to buy new struts to work with them. And the correct strut mounts for my car were half the price I was quoted a couple days ago. If I have time tomorrow I'll install the panhard bar too because the rear end is shifted over by a good 1/4" with my SR springs.
Hello There, I Gotta say, I love your Videos. I'm a big fan! I make compilation videos where I take clips from other videos add some information, do my own voiceover and then play music over them. I was just wondering if I could have your permission to use 20 seconds max of this video. Obviously, the link will be in the description and all credit will be rewarded to you. If you are not sure, check out my channel and read the description of my recent videos an see what I mean
i had h&r springs installed in my car.was told it would drop in up to 2 inches but due to the wheel set up they were only ablr to drop it 1.5inch.now,my question is. i have a new set of wheels that are 19s instead of 20s... can i go that .5 lower on the spring? 1yr later? might be stupid question but worth asking
I used this method just as it was described and install went smooth and easy. I cant believe no one else shows how to decompress the spring this way! Piece of cake! Thanks for the great instructional video!
I knoww!! I was gonna buy the tool to decompress them so thankfully
this dude is king..made a video in sandals...epic!
I think he did the installation in sandals F it!
There is no need for one if you use this method. You basically use the jack and strut tower as the compressor. Makes for a super easy installation.
Well, did mine right after seeing this video and it was a breeze. Your video was a lot of help. Gg.
Thanks! We do it all of you the fellow Mustang enthusiasts
Been lowered about a year now and love it. Roads suck, but worth the grip and not feeling floaty over 100mph.
SR springs - Koni yellows shocks struts- BMR relocation brackets , BMR upper control arm with mount, and BMR panhard bar, - J&M lower control arms, stock strut mounts(one replaced after disassembling itself) , and cut down FRPP jounce bumpers, BFG sport comp 2 tires on 19x8.5" wheels.
Corners like a boss now!!! (literally like a 302 lol).
i literally just got done doing springs on my 2011 GT and this video is exactly the same as what you need to do. no spring compressor, every thing pulls out and installs just fine. hardest part was finding the right sockets to use.
So i dont need spring compressors ?
I noticed he didnt use any in the video but wasnt for sure ..
11ahsvikings They didn't use a compressor for this particular car, but when I tried the same method for my base v6 mustang, the spring was very tall and pushed the wheel hub/rotor all the way down and was stretching the brake line. Everything was in a bind and it was hard as fuq to get the spring/strut out. My suggestion is even if you have a performance pack mustang like the one in the video, do get a spring compressor! Just take the strut and spring out together without taking off the center nut, then use a spring compressor to take the spring off of the strut. It's just easier this way. You can rent a compressor from an auto parts store for $60-$70 deposit, and you're refunded the whole amount when you take it back.
Hey I just lowered my 2014 v6 mustang followed your instructions step by step,went perfect thanks for the vid.
this video is the best way in installing the front springs because u dont need to use a spring compressor for the fronts just simply following this trick and you'll be fine. thanks! best procedure!
Stock shocks and struts are perfectly fine. If they are higher mileage it is the perfect time to upgrade since it will all be apart. Good thinking on the GT500 strut mounts! I would never install springs without replacing the strut mounts especially on a 05-09 model.
Thanks for this how to video! I lowered my ride the day before memorial day
It is just like he said I did it on my '14 GT. I recommend renting spring compressors from your local Auto part store.
That spring can be dangerous. I almost lost my middle finger when it got caught between the disk and the lower control arm.
I could not imagine going through life with only an 8th of my middle finger. I am glad I still have it just in case I need to use it.
Nicely done. No spring compressor needed. Thank you for the video. Putting Eibach Sportlines on my 2014 Gt Cs tomorrow.
Doing mine too
I just swapped out the rear springs on my '05 (had Motorsport P springs, swapped in BMR springs), I didn't touch the swaybar as even with the suspension at full droop it was not in the way of the shock bolts coming out. However I do recommend removing the clips on either side that hold the brake line to the frame (where the flex line connects to the hardline, right in front of the axle behind the wheel). If you drop the axle with the shocks removed and those clips are still on the frame, it puts a LOT of stress on that flex line!
2008 GT500. I did mine a little different. I have the BMR 1.5" lowering springs. NOTE: The wrench or vise grip(what i used) used to hold the end link bolt goes right behind the bracket(middle) and NOT at the opposite end. I had a lot of trouble trying to align the 4 bolts of the mounting bracket to the car when i tried to follow the video(with spring compressor too) and the way I ended up doing it was easier. I installed the upper mounting bracket to the car and slowly raised the LCA with new spring until the strut bolt was in the center hole of the mount and the spring was aligned with mounting bracket. Then I kept the LCA/rotor raised and lowered the whole CAR. Strut went right into place and then tightened it.
8 months later when I look back on how my install went. I will tell you this for your own good/safety and making the job easier. Use spring compressors for the fronts!
joshnc101 what happen?
Great vid I spent all day with the ugly spring compressor from auto zone, on one wheel trying to get the spring back right. I’m gonna try your method. But wondering will this work with bmr I hope so.
thanks for your experience. But I've already lowered the car on SR performance springs. Lost all kinds of traction lmao! I have ordered bmr relocation brackets, already have a bmr adjustable panhard bar, and upper control arm here waiting to be installed. The springs are definitely more bouncy when combined with the factory shocks and struts as the struts want to return to the factory springs height over any medium deflection or bump. I've already committed to changing the suspension geometry from the time I bough the 19" TSW Nurburgring wheels , so no going back now lol. Just need to get the relo brackets , and then next summer shocks , struts, and depending on how money is, TURBO that BYTCH!!! 😁😝😜❕❕
Good luck bro!
I just bought Eibach sportlines and orange Konis for my 2008 GT. Finally doing what you did :D
Lastly , I hear people talking about driveshaft pinion angle or something, and needing adjustable control arm brackets or spacers. Is there anything to this pinion angle stuff. Stock driveshaft , and I go to the drags a bit, so car can see triple digit speeds pretty regularly...
You commented that you'd never install springs without replacing the strut mounts,…in the video the mechanic re-used the factory strut mounts. You see what I'm seeing? Koni now offers a street strut that is compatible with 11+ strut mounts. Just ordered them from AmericanMuscle and I ordered the BMR springs from LateModelRestoration.
im preparing to do a 1.5 drop in the rear and a 1.0 drop in the front on my 07
Awesome thank you so much, wheels and lowering springs, 1st mod
Awesome vid thank you
You bet! -Landan
so I don't need a spring compressor tool if I un bolt the upper strut nut before removing tension from the control arm?
Finished up today. The passenger rear has a slight pop noise at times. I checked all bolts and the swaybar links.
Well then! I’ve been dreading this and having to deal with compressing the springs.
me to… been having my parts for a year now. Did you end up doing it this way?
Is lowering springs safe to use on the stock struts and shocks. I was wondering cuz I was thinking about picking a set up and don't want to spend a lot of money but I also want to do it right by getting a panhard bar and gt500 strut mounts and maybe camber bolts just to be safe. That's one thing I'm worried about is it throwing the front end out of wack and not driving like it did before.
Is an adjustable upper control arm needed to reset pinion angle of the axle?
kmp101 that's what I wanna know is it needed or not
It should be needed,only dropping a inch or so should be alright i would think.on my truck i got 5/8 drop and they alighned with only -1 camber.bought offset balljoint now it perfect.but that with massive drop,one inch should alighn without problems
What is the reasoning for having the rear spring pigtail facing straight back? And what could happen if it isn't?
Upper strut bolt spins freely will not come off have it jacked up slightly what's going on????
Late model! Where are the new take off strut and shock kit for the s197?!! It was just there! Help please!
dude0715 We are currently sold out at the moment, and have removed them from the website. I apologize for any inconvenience. -Landan
Wanting to lower my 2011 V6 as the wheel gap is horrific. Plan to use the SR performance springs(1.5/1.5"), and all the factory hardware. Do I need caster/camber bolts , and a strut mounts? I only have 36k in miles. What do you guys consider "high mileage" to need strut and shock replacement. I May pick up an adjustable panhard bar too , but I only want to buy parts if they are necessary , but definitely want it done right. Budget is right about 500.
Well, the Camber bolts only give you a few degrees in leverage. To get the front tires back into place, Firestone as well as every other mechanic I know recommended to add the Adjustable Camber strut plates. There's some people on the forums that swear up and down saying you don't need it, don't listen to them. My front end is still out of whack.
Now moving onto why you shouldn't lower it. Do you know what exactly is going to happen when you lower it? I did it to my Mustang and it was the worse possible thing I could do to it. The ride is sh@t and you can't take it down roads that are slightly bumpy. I put better struts and shocks and no difference. Except maybe the car didn't dip as bad. Which is more livable than hitting a bump in the road and your whole car pulls into it. Also, you'll eat shocks. I blew through 2 stock ones and a koni after lowering it. It's not the springs to consider with this build, it's a commitment. You will also need a new pan hand bar since the rear will be out of alignment. I think my only positive remark to this springs is the turning capability and body roll decreased. I'm gonna save my money for a sway bar rather than these awful springs.
Good video!
hey guys, I have some springs that I need to install but don't want to mess anything up.. how much would you guys charge to put them on for me?
About to do this too my 06 gt today so this works without a spring compressor??whis all done it this way??thanks
Correct. All spring kits work this way and you should be able to do this install without a spring compressor.
I am REALLY wondering if this process will work on my 2008 Convertible (California special) ...Can you comment because everyone says you need a spring compressor...this would save a lot of time (your method) but I would be in a heap of trouble if it didn't work ...PLEASE reassure ....:-)
Some springs require the use of a spring compressor. We cannot guarantee whether or not you will need one for your application. -Landan
What size is the center strut nut?
Paola Naim is the size the same as a 2014?
You fail to mention the rear end strut supports that have to be removed
Do we need to go ahead and get a new panhard bar in the back for the rear end
Yes
i have these springs about 2 1/2 years and lately I've been getting a clunk in the front end over some bumps any idea what it could be before i start blowing money ???
Check to make sure the valving on your struts are still good and that the car isn't hitting the bump stops when hitting large bumps
Hey man , I installed some ford racing lowering springs on my 2012 5.0. And the rear springs are installed with the coils that are closer together at the bottom.
Did I install them upside down ?
Also the coils are touching each other , literally touching, on the half of the spring that is spaced closer, which is the bottom of the spring the way I have it installed.
Is this right ?
Are they lined up just like the ones in this video?? Watch at about 2:30.
Hey guys, I ordered the pro kit, so 1.5 inch drop out back, am I going to have to worry about the pinion angle being off at that amount of drop?
JayDee no. car has a 2 piece driveshaft
Does a 05 Mustang gt front springs come off the car still on the strut? I was going to remove the assy and have a shop remove and install the springs
James - That is correct. All 05-14 S197 Mustangs utilize a MacPherson strut design. This means that the spring is compressed over the strut shaft and held in place via an upper strut mount. -Landan
Late Model Restoration Landan do i need caster plates or camber bolts? My suspension is stock 05 gt convertible with 49k on it and I just bought the sve Springs and a adjustable panhard bar
Camber bolts will get you within spec with a set of SVE lowering springs. -Landan
Late Model Restoration I don't have them can they be added later
Yes! -Landan
So if you’re like me doing this on jackstands instead of having the miracle of having a lift, do not take the middle bolt out until after you drop the front strut. If you happen to lose grip on the top part the bearing will fall off and the metal beads will come flying out.
Are these silver RTRs?
Good Video, But my problem was "and all my own fault" I'm going the other way , putting original springs back in and the problem is you need some spring compressors.
what would happen if the pig tail is not pointing straight back?
winkawak chance of the spring popping out during compression
where is the part where you make it look better?
So you don't need a spring compressor?
Please give our tech team a call at 866-507-3786.
Exactly how low would these springs lower my 07 GT.
Juan Adorno 1.25-1.4" on the front and 1.5" on the rear -- Jeff J
well I'm paying for this to be done
So Fly Official have confidence in yoursepf
But mine said 1" 1/2 drop and only dropped 3/4".. not evern a dam inch
what are those rims called on that mustang
Mustang rtr
what rims are those?
Hi Josh,
They are RTR Wheels, that are no longer offered on our site.
@@latemodelrestoration well shoot lol
No spring compressor used
This is a good video, but I just don't get it. After researching tons of stuff, most say if you put in lowering springs, then you have to have an adjustable pan hard bar, then strut mounts, then sometimes a bump-steer kit, etc... If you lower your mustang, what all do you really need to do it right and not mess up the steering or tracking of the back axle?? This vid makes it sound like put in the springs and you are done. Need the reall story.
TJ Brinks Adjustable panhard bar is not necessary on all lowering springs. It is recommended on springs over a 1" drop. This car already had a full suspension on it - including panhard bar. I would recommend GT500 strut mounts if you have a higher mileage Stang. In most cases it is better to just replace them if you want to be safe and avoid the annoying "popping" sound coming your front suspension. This car has very few miles on it so we just re-used them. This video is to help walk you though the spring installation only since we get so many questions about it. If you want to take the guess work out of a lowering kit for 05-14 cars check out this kit -- www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/SVE-5300CK-KIT/SVE-Performance-Suspension-Kit-Mustang-11-14
***** Thanks for the reply. I have a 2005 V6 Convertible. The kit you directed me to adds yet another piece, the lower control arms! Most lowering springs list >1" drop so i guess panhard bar is needed. So now I have this list... Springs, strut mounts, panhard bar, Camber adj bolts (I guess they couldn't hurt). I notice Eibach has a pro-system that includes dampers and bump stops. I do plan on replacing shocks and struts with stock ones when I do all this. So are the control arms important to add? What about bump stops?
TJ Brinks If you are thinking about a set of shock and struts, do it when installing springs. This will save you the headache of coming back and redoing the front suspension disassemble again for the strut install. You can take advantage of our Koni Sale we have going right now on the struts and shock. See link below. Bump stops are not required. Many people delete them or even cut down their factory ones. www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Koni-Shocks-Struts
***** Thanks! What about the control arms? Is there a benefit to changing them when lowering?
TJ Brinks for a 05-09 model check out the link below. The front lowers are problematic with worn out bushings. When doing this install it would benefit you to replace the control arms being that you don't have to disassemble your front suspension again to do control arms down the road. If you are referring to the rear controls arms. They do eliminate wheel hop but not needed for lowering your Mustang ruclips.net/video/h2XA0xzMNZ4/видео.html
So no need for a spring compressor?
Correct, there is no need for a spring compressor on S197 Mustangs.
***** I tried tackling the job today and it ended not so good even when using the exact methods and tools here. First, when trying the method shown in this video of lowering the jack with the strut mount nuts removed, the stock (base v6) spring still had quite a bit of compression left in it. When I took out the top lower strut bolt as shown, the still compressed spring made the hub/rotor instantly swing outward, hitting my knee, that hurt... Second, I wasn't careful enough nor knew how to to properly remove the strut mounts as they both have lost a bunch of bearings. I wasn't even aware that they separate into two pieces.
So now I'm spending $200+ more than I wanted to for new strut mounts, and forced to put it back together and do the rears tomorrow night. Not happy about this.
People, use spring compressors after taking the spring and strut out of the car, and keep it standing strait up, possibly with a bag over it or something to keep from losing bearing balls should it get away from you somehow!
joshnc101 My name is Jeff, shoot me an email and I'll make sure you we get some help. Having broken strut mounts is actually a very common finding on S197 Mustangs. Once the bearings get wear and tear they break down and even fail. I've seen plenty of these be completely separated when I've taken them off. That is why most S197 Mustang owners install GT500 strut mounts every time they install new springs. jeff.jimenez@latemodelrestoration.com
***** I got the car back together today and after carefully assembling the spring and struts with the new "two piece" strut mounts it was a breeze getting it back together and then doing the rear springs. Funny thing yesterday... The dealer got me the wrong strut mounts which were for older 05-10 mustangs, mine is a 2013. I hands down like them much better as they don't separate to two pieces, but I can't afford to buy new struts to work with them. And the correct strut mounts for my car were half the price I was quoted a couple days ago. If I have time tomorrow I'll install the panhard bar too because the rear end is shifted over by a good 1/4" with my SR springs.
joshnc101 Let me know if there is anything else we can do for you. Just send me an email jeff.jimenez@latemodelrestoration.com
Hello There,
I Gotta say, I love your Videos. I'm a big fan! I make compilation videos where I take clips from other videos add some information, do my own voiceover and then play music over them. I was just wondering if I could have your permission to use 20 seconds max of this video. Obviously, the link will be in the description and all credit will be rewarded to you. If you are not sure, check out my channel and read the description of my recent videos an see what I mean
Go ahead! Thank you very much for your feedback!
Excellent video, thanks! Next time can you go a bit slower? lol
So easy it can be done in flip flops!
Wow Sandals and no spring compressor!!! Epic!
Open toed shoes in the shop. Big no no.
And you’re “dun”
You really moving to fast and the cut scenes are terrible to have for an installation video
L
Hey I just lowered my 2014 v6 mustang followed your instructions step by step,went perfect thanks for the vid.
i had h&r springs installed in my car.was told it would drop in up to 2 inches but due to the wheel set up they were only ablr to drop it 1.5inch.now,my question is. i have a new set of wheels that are 19s instead of 20s... can i go that .5 lower on the spring? 1yr later? might be stupid question but worth asking
Hey I just lowered my 2014 v6 mustang followed your instructions step by step,went perfect thanks for the vid.