Thank you for producing a good quality video on the importance of fit. Most men's fashion videos these days are all the same. They preface on the assumption that all men are skinny, scraggly, and have thin, chicken legs. If you're a dude who spends even just a few days a week working out in a gym then you're going to have bigger shoulders and upper arms, you're going to have a bigger chest, and you're going to have thighs and glutes. And if you don't work out then you're either obese or have a dad-bod with at least a bit of a belly. The average man today falls into one of these two latter categories, and seriously, how many times have you seen a fat guy in a skinny suit and thought it was a good look? The suits they're pushing as 'modern' now are too tight, and short and don't look masculine at all. I had a buddy who was suited like this for his wedding. The tailor kept telling him how good it looked, but he looked ridiculous. The jacket was so tight that he couldn't freely move his arms, and the pants were too short and tight. The suit looked at least two sizes too small, but the tailor kept telling him that this is the look that guys are wearing now. Maybe, but its not a good look for some. Form-fitting clothing look great on women with thin, curvy bodies but they NEVER look good on dudes. I took him to my 'old-school' tailor, and that dude fixed him up in a much better looking suit that fit him perfectly. Yes, it was 'traditional' and 'conservative' but it was also very masculine, and a really sharp look. A suit should fit one's body, not the tailor's idea of modernity. .
Is this a prophecy? I have been thinking of making a rich brown suit for a while. I even have made a mood board to narrow down what I want. And, bam, here is my favourite fashion figure talking about suit. Let me call my tailor for an appointment.
Great video. The only piece of advice I can offer is to not worry too much about going 11/11, especially when going off the rack. Depending on how you are built, it can get quite hard to nail each aspect. Do your best to hit as many of the marks you can and you'll look great, especially during this current 'loose fit' meta.
This is so true. I bought a suit jacket 10 years ago that seems perfect on the shoulders and the overall length seems right. But it can be seen as too wide or loose if buttoned (which can be fixed by hemming the sides) but I like wearing it opened and I think it looks good and even a friend of mine who is usually critical clothing said it looks good on me.
The dreaded collar gap has haunted me for years. I’ve even experienced it with higher end made-to-measure suits and jackets from in-person fittings. I’m in the process of my first bespoke suit now, hoping to defeat the gap monster forever.
One possible problem though. When you're in front of the mirror you automatically adjust your natural posture and stay straighter. Then the tailor takes your measurements, makes a suit and you return back to your natural posture. An experience tailor should know this though.
@@BrockMcGoff The first bespoke attempt was closer to a perfect collar fit but there was still a little bit of gap. The tailor said that it was the best he could do. I actually took the suit to another bespoke tailor to see if he could diagnose and fix the problem and he noticed that the collar was about 1/2" too long so he shortened it. Now it fits snug on my neck with no gap at all. My neck is 13 1/2" around and I think some tailors might have a mental block where they just won't go smaller than 14" for some reason. Just a theory.
@@newbassplayer4005 yes, but you have to be aware of the button stance becoming too low, and the pockets being too close to the hem (especially if you have patch pockets).
I really appreciate this guide. I'm a blue collar guy in my mid 30's just looking to get some suits for church, and to not look out of place with my fit (Like if a white collar guy was to wear carhart and cowboy boots lol). I think with this guide I can at least come off as trying to be respectful. Thanks.
One point would like to add. A partial break is your safe bet as different shoes sit differently with your pants due to the heels or height construction of the shoes. You will notice your pants kissing some shoes while others barely touching it✌️
I got my first 'custom' suit from SuitSupply. Not a lot of alternations needed to be made. And I'm glad I caught those parts of the suit that needed fixing. Definitely nice to have a tailor help you out in making you look the best that you can!
Pants this tapered make the shoes look gigantic and put of proportion in my opinion. Especially if you have a larger shoe size, you start looking like a stickman on skis. Straight cut with full break give so much better proportions overall.
Incredible video, really helped me understand what to look for. Can you link me to the grey vested suit you were wearing early in the video? That’s exactly the style and color I would like to find.
Thank god you acknowledge that fit is subjective-I feel like so many men's fashion youtubers out there give the impression that there's only one "correct" way to wear clothing.
Very little of a suit fit is subjective. For instance, jacket length, width, shoulders, collar, etc have hard and fast rules. Number of breaks in the trousers or sleeve length within set tolerances are less so
Saved two of my Dad's old 100%wool italian suits and I'm hoping they can be tailored to my fit. First time realizing how sharp I look in a suit. Got alot of dressing up to do while I'm still in prime territory.
Thank you for this video. My current off-the-rack jacket is "good enough" but not great in terms of fit, and this video helped me figure out the specific areas where the fit could be improved.
Great video Brock, I am looking at getting a new suit (grey). There are two general rules I keep in mind, wear a dress shirt to see how the jacket fits and a pair of dress shoes for the fit of the pant and break when being tailored. I am 5'5 with a medium/slim build. FYI, I would look into getting side adjusters for my pant.
That's not British, that's a Zoot suit, guv'nor. The upper class British cut is famously generous in the waist and baggier at the thighs. Think King Charles and all the Lords. The hoi polloi in Britain may go curvier, but that's the Continental influence.
Does a British style favour closed quarters? I rather like a tapered waist with open quarters but not averse to the British shoulder structure and lapels.
Great video! Very in depth on the key areas. :) Speaking of getting clothes tailored you have great information on how to find a tailor and what is possible to have tailored. I find it really hard though on youtube or elsewhere to find any videos or guides with clear before and after pictures on how it can affect the fit and how much things can be changed.
Thank you for this! I actually went in and spent an hour getting fitted for a custom suit and it took several weeks for them to make it and send it to me and when I tried it... the jacket felt worse than any off-the-shelf suit I have had but I wasn't sure if that meant I just didn't know anything. This video helped me realize they F'd up and I will get a refit on Saturday as the movement in my arms on the MEASURED TAILORED suit is restrictive and barely moving raises the shoulders.
People notice fit more than they notice fabric. Makes sense. Even the most ardent of fashionistas are not very well knowledgable about fabric because they get all their opinions from trends and guess work.
I wished I watched this before I went shopping I bought a blazer for 500 bucks from Hugo Boss and the sales person assured me it fit well but later I found out it is a sloppy fit even after they altered the sleeves, the cuffs still hit top of the knuckles and bottom a half inch below the crotch. I tried to return it or get a store credit and they refused, saying I chose the jacket. The next one will fit better. But hugo boss staff should not be trusted in assisting customers on the fit of a jacket.
Good video, Brock! It's great that you could provide so much information in 12 minutes. Antonio would turn this into a capital project! Plus, he would tell you to buy a sewing machine and do your own tailoring! I like the way you broke things down. There is only one thing I would have added, and that is the taper of the pant. I find heavier guys look a little odd when the pant is too tapered. Things should be proportional to your size in my opinion. Thanks! 😊
Awesome suit guide. I agree with 99% of it, the 1% being I don't like the look of pleated pants. feels outdated to me. but hey, to each his own. Love the cuff trick to make sure the jacket length is right. hadn't heard of that before but will definitely be putting into practice
I appreciate this video! I went to Men's Wearhouse to rent a tux and they measured me in my city and shipped it out to another state or atleast my measurements to a local retailer to where I traveled to. I looked like a frumpy mess the day of formal event, drowning in an unattractive tuxedo that made me look wide & square like SpongeBob. 😅 So now, I'm trying to build my own go-to collections so the embarrassment never happens again, and your video really helps. Thanks
That's an acceptable fit. It used to be known as the American sack fit and was the staple in America until the 50s. It's a very vintage look. Robert Downey Jnr also pulls that off when he's in a three piece. Recently Americans are blindly copying the svelte Continental fit, forgetting that that fit is meant for the slimmer European physique. So many "trendy" Americans look like clowns with their body hugging blouse fits and socks visible even when standing because they went comically no break.
Good video! Hit the key points. I'ma natural 41L so off-the-rack is a little challenging, but if I'm patient different makers sizes are all different. So I can get into a 42L slim in one mfr and 40L in another. I don't mind paying for custom tailoring if I save by o-t-r options.
Friendly correction; arm hole can be altered. Depending on how much can be let out or taken in. Shoulder is a different complication better left alone.
Thank you SO MUCH for this current look at men's suits. My son just appeared on TV and we realized that he desperately needs a correctly fitted suit. He is 24 years old, 6'2, 275 lb. Where should he look? He has had 2 suits before that no longer fit, and he's grown through several blue blazers. Do we go to a department store? Men's Wearhouse? An old school men's store? He works in central KY where clothes can be traditional which he doesn't mind, but he doesn't want to look 50. Custom is not an option due to cost. Approximately how much might he expect to have to pay? He will probably be buying a new navy blazer and khakis for more casual events especially in the south. I'd appreciate any advice you have. Thank you!
Hi. Need 7 suits and 7 Guayaberas. Thought about Macy's, then decided to check videos about suits. Thanks for the advice. I'm going to a tailor. Puerto Rico's tailor's access to material is short. So I'm going to the Dominican Republic. Did talk to Tailor Pedro Encarnación through his brother, also a tailor working in Ponce, Puerto Rico, Mr. Roque Encarnación.
Collar gaps might also be a consequence of big armholes on modern tailoring. Even MTM and some bespoke tailors still make their armholes kind of large which isn’t helpful. I’ve never got collar gaps with my vintage 40s suits tho.
Some tips for a slim guy with a little tummy out. The waistcoat remains risen or lifted from front. Plz suggest how should it fit ? Also should the shirt sleeves be as fit as the jacket or a little loose ?
Regarding "No Break" pants length. At 10:45 speaker says "I like no break, I think it looks really good, especially for ???? Guys". Did you say "shorter guys " , "taller guys " or what guys ? Thanks.
For me the problem is a ridge between the shoulder blades. Happens with almost every suit/coat. I do have a very broad chest and shoulders and a slim waist (I'm a bodybuilder) but few off the rack suits fit my waist _and_ shoulders
I enjoyed the informative video. I have a question. I'm curious about the length of the jacket you wore. I bought a sports jacket this time and it was 76.5cm long. I am about 174.5cm tall, so please let me know if the figures are appropriate. Thank you.
I went to Mens Wearhouse here in Utah, and found they are doing a custom suit deal for 400. Again, the material probably isn't like the greatest (I'm not real familiar with material so I'm assuming), but again, it will be a really good fit so I think it's worth it.
Another option is Jos. A. Banks for cheap “custom” suits. If you have one in your area. I think their fabric quality may be a little bit better for the same price or less. They are still not a Brioni. But, do you really need a Brioni?
most of my suits are of an eye'talian cut and in my wild travels i picked up a nice old sch soviet box cut suit and for banging about its a still a favourite
I avoid buying a short suit off the rack because the sleeves are always too short. Any advise? I know custom is an option but as we all know that can be a bit pricey.
What are your thoughts on Spezzato style? Are you a fan or do you prefer to keep the suit jacket with its matching pants rather than mixing or matching? I have a few casual Blazers so obviously with those I can easily wear different pants since they were meant for it but Suit jackets can be a bit tricky sometimes. I currently have 2 suit jackets. One is a Solid Charcoal Grey and the other is a Medium Grey Glen plaid but with the first one I sometimes wonder if I should've just purchased it with matching pants like it was meant traditionally instead of as a separate you know what I mean? Anyway I still ponder about it but the plaid one is a little easier to wear seperately because of the casual nature of the pattern. Anyway just wanted to share some thoughts and get your perspective on Sprezzatura style. Appreciate the content as always!
I like belts because I think they help me look smaller. I am not overweight guy either, I am semi-built but the mid section and torso are always, seem like the hardest places to slim down and get definition!
Thanks Brock. Long-time follower. I have started eating healthier and working out. I want to buy myself a few suits as soon as I feel I am the right size; sort of as a reward for sticking with the diet and exercise. The big thing is I now live in Asia, Thailand at the moment. I want to buy my first suit rather soon as I have lost enough weight and I will need it for business. The thing is the heat here is stifling, and I all ready have this thing where I feel so hot if I don’t have some breeze blowing on me. So no air flow and a suit equals sweating which I hate. If I want a suit that I can reduce the size later at a tailor, and that will work in the heat, what material(s) do you recommend? Also, there are lots of incredibly inexpensive suits here which I took to mean they’re “cheap.” However, one of my friends said they make some great suits here in Thailand at a fraction of the price found in other parts of the world. Any thoughts or experience/knowledge of buying in this part of the world? Also, I have several nice dress shirts. Can those be tailored, or should I have some dress shirts made for me? I read a review of a famous place here and the reviewer said he had dress shirts custom made and they’re the best fitting shirts he’s ever owned. But I have some semi-expensive Fredrick Taylor shirts that are 100% cotton or linen with French cuffs and my initials on them. Would like to keep them if they can be tailored. At the same time, perhaps there’s even a shirt material better for heat than what I own? I like the idea of suspenders, but wonder if that would make me feel hotter in the suit? Last question, if I get suspenders, what should the suspenders match? The belt? Shoes? Suit? Tie? Sort of lost there. Thanks so much in advance for your time and consideration. Wishing you happiness and prosperity. Cheers.
I'm not Brock but as a neighbour (I'm Malaysian) who likes to dress up I hope I can help you out here with a few of the questions. In my experience, the humidity in Southeast Asia is the main killjoy in dressing up instead of the heat itself. Even an unlined jacket made with an open weave fabric could not stop the humidity from causing massive perspiration in my experience. The great news is that in most occasions where a suit is required, the venue is often very heavily air-conditioned. This helps a great deal in wearing a suit in our localities. But I must state that a half/quarter-lined jacket with an open-weave fabric such as Minnis Fresco, Holland and Sherry Crispaire etc. does help A LOT compared to a fully lined "all-season" wool as most of these "all-season" wool from European mills are made for the European climate. You can also consider wool/silk/linen blend or hopsack wool. Linen is great too but it is an inherently casual fabric. It will not be as suitable for a board meeting, interview, funeral etc. Most suits can be altered to be smaller especially if it was initially made to your measurement. That means the shoulder and the length are already pretty settled in the dimensions. Usually we don't grow shorter in length and width of our shoulders that significantly so everything else is going to be ok for the tailor to alter. However if the suit is RTW, I would suggest you to look up a few guides on what a tailor can or cannot alter. Gentlemen's Gazette has a pretty comprehensive video guide on this topic. The two main things that a tailor cannot alter much on a jacket is the collar (that dreaded gap is pretty much unfixable in RTW), length (both the sleeve and the quarters as it will either make the sleeve buttons and the pockets to close to the bottom), and shoulder width. Thailand is pretty well-known for tailored garment at a lower cost compared to American/European tailors. However, the really cheap ones often do not have fabrics that were mentioned earlier so if you can afford it do try to get tailors that do not offer those 24/48 hour suit services that are quite prevalent in the big cities especially in Bangkok. In the website Parisian Gentlemen, they have a list of well regarded and rather affordable tailors around SEA. Look up "affordable tailoring south east asia parisian gentlemen" and you should be able to find the article. If your dress shirts fit you pretty well already, I do think you can just keep them. I have my shirts tailor made because my neck circumference is massive compared to the rest of my body. I need an L/XL size to button the collar but the torso, shoulder, and sleeve is only an S/M. If you have the same issue as mine (odd/disproportionate measurements), it's worth to get your shirts tailored. Cotton and linen are the best shirt materials for tropical weather IMO. In terms of suspenders, they don't really cause that much heat. The issue you may run into however, is that your shirt may be pressed against your back and when you are sweating it really is a bad experience. I gravitate towards suspenders because I have a belly that pushes my trousers down which causes them to bunch at the ankle. If you have a waist that can hold the waistband up well, just get side adjusters on your trousers and let your hip keep the waistband up instead.
AS A 1ST SUIT BUYER THIS IS SO HELPFUL. GOING FOR OFF THE RACK SUIT FROM DILLARD'S FOR NOW. THEN MAYBE TAILOR-MADE ON MY 2ND SUIT. ANY ADVICE WILL BE WELCOME.
I stopped wearing suits about 11 years ago when I had a stroke. It is difficult for me to button the top two buttons of the shirt. I want to get back into wearing suits, any suggestions?
@@eloquent-nuance I love ties, and has been difficult to tie them. However two weeks ago I went to the symphony and I decided to get a suit and even though it took me a long time I got the tie done and enjoyed the night.
Great video, however, no tips on double breasted suits. Following your suggestion on how tied the jacket should be, I think double breasted suits should be I bit looser to give you that elegant look. What do you think? I owned 32 suits, most of them taylored others from the rack, nothing in my opinion is more elegant than a double breasted suit and/or a well taylored three piece suit. I thank you for helping us men to wear suits the way they suppose to be. Some men, for the most part, are ignorant about ways to dress formally. They think than wearing a suit makes it dressing formally. I wish more men should watch your video.
Thank you so much for your help I am kind of poor man I always like to look good I love suits thank for advice on the things I need to watch out of god bless your heart ❤.
I got a slim fit off the rack suit and the vest and blazer fit perfectly. However, the pants have a low rise and it's tight in the upper thighs and crotch. Is there anything I can do to loosen the upper thighs and add more room in the crotch?
I always liked the aesthetic, but it can be taken to an extreme (to the point where it doesn't actually make sense for most dressy occasions, like a job interview, funeral or wedding).
Do all the suits have little freedom of movement in the arms, like the armpits stuck together? For example, you can't move the arms to the sides at 90 degrees with your body without the whole suit rising... on the contrary, as if you can with a shirt and t-shirt..... please help
Just wondering what could I get for a $2,800 suit, like would I be able to get a really good high quality suit and be able to buy a second jacket with it? Or am I better off getting a single suit as this is will be my first suit.
For $2800 afford yourself a nice holiday in Thailand. They will be happy to make a quality $300 bespoke suit for you in Bangkok and it will take no more than a week. In the meantime enjoy beautiful beaches of Koh Samui. I hope that helps :)
If it's your first suit, you should not be blowing 2800 dollars on it. You will learn a lot from the mistakes of your first suit, it needs to be inexpensive.
I think this is very much a personal preference. It really depends on region, current fashion, and pant construction. A lot of European slimmers suits have a higher hem than American cut suits. Especially those of older fit styles. I personally have started to like the no break look for pants without cuffs/turn-ups. Just as long as they have a tapered or slimmer leg opening.
@@deanfowlkes If you have a no break tapered pants hem, it makes your shoes look longer, like you're wearing clown shoes. the pants hem should cover at least half of the shoe length to give classical proportions down there. Which is why no break tapered hems are a fashion disaster. It is a fashion faux pas when men following trends decide that it is okay to have their socks visible when standing.
@@Kids11111 - I can respect your opinion. It is only that, an opinion. An opinion that is following the trend that is relevant to your particular tastes. After all, fully visible stockings were around a lot longer than full-break trouser. Personally, I prefer dress and casual boots rather than shoes. So, seeing my socks while I am standing is not an issue. While sitting, it would not matter where your break is. Overly long shoes and skinny ankles would still make you look like you are wearing clown shoes. By the way, notice that my previous text said slimmer or tapered. Not the baggy look that characterized what men in the, 80s , and 90s wore. Or, what out of shape men wore to hide their proportions.
@@deanfowlkes I agree about stockings, but they were paired with the appropriate knee lengths of the time. Classically the rule used to be that the trousers be wide enough at the hem to cover two thirds of the shoe length with a break being necessary. Now it is something akin to half. That ensures the total absence of the clown shoes effect because the proportions fool the eye. The skinny build of the ankles becomes irrelevant when hidden in that manner. I know this will be further opinion, but I highly recommend the youtube channel "AskOkey" for anyone of similar thought to me.
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Thank you for producing a good quality video on the importance of fit. Most men's fashion videos these days are all the same. They preface on the assumption that all men are skinny, scraggly, and have thin, chicken legs. If you're a dude who spends even just a few days a week working out in a gym then you're going to have bigger shoulders and upper arms, you're going to have a bigger chest, and you're going to have thighs and glutes. And if you don't work out then you're either obese or have a dad-bod with at least a bit of a belly. The average man today falls into one of these two latter categories, and seriously, how many times have you seen a fat guy in a skinny suit and thought it was a good look?
The suits they're pushing as 'modern' now are too tight, and short and don't look masculine at all. I had a buddy who was suited like this for his wedding. The tailor kept telling him how good it looked, but he looked ridiculous. The jacket was so tight that he couldn't freely move his arms, and the pants were too short and tight. The suit looked at least two sizes too small, but the tailor kept telling him that this is the look that guys are wearing now. Maybe, but its not a good look for some. Form-fitting clothing look great on women with thin, curvy bodies but they NEVER look good on dudes. I took him to my 'old-school' tailor, and that dude fixed him up in a much better looking suit that fit him perfectly. Yes, it was 'traditional' and 'conservative' but it was also very masculine, and a really sharp look.
A suit should fit one's body, not the tailor's idea of modernity.
.
Is this a prophecy? I have been thinking of making a rich brown suit for a while. I even have made a mood board to narrow down what I want. And, bam, here is my favourite fashion figure talking about suit. Let me call my tailor for an appointment.
It was meant to be!
Great video. The only piece of advice I can offer is to not worry too much about going 11/11, especially when going off the rack. Depending on how you are built, it can get quite hard to nail each aspect. Do your best to hit as many of the marks you can and you'll look great, especially during this current 'loose fit' meta.
Good point!
playstation generation meta users
This is so true. I bought a suit jacket 10 years ago that seems perfect on the shoulders and the overall length seems right. But it can be seen as too wide or loose if buttoned (which can be fixed by hemming the sides) but I like wearing it opened and I think it looks good and even a friend of mine who is usually critical clothing said it looks good on me.
That's exactly what i thought.
Finally, a suit video that doesn't sound douchey or snobby. Spot on.
The dreaded collar gap has haunted me for years. I’ve even experienced it with higher end made-to-measure suits and jackets from in-person fittings. I’m in the process of my first bespoke suit now, hoping to defeat the gap monster forever.
Same! Let me know how it turns out.
One possible problem though. When you're in front of the mirror you automatically adjust your natural posture and stay straighter. Then the tailor takes your measurements, makes a suit and you return back to your natural posture. An experience tailor should know this though.
@@BrockMcGoff The first bespoke attempt was closer to a perfect collar fit but there was still a little bit of gap. The tailor said that it was the best he could do. I actually took the suit to another bespoke tailor to see if he could diagnose and fix the problem and he noticed that the collar was about 1/2" too long so he shortened it. Now it fits snug on my neck with no gap at all. My neck is 13 1/2" around and I think some tailors might have a mental block where they just won't go smaller than 14" for some reason. Just a theory.
@@BrockMcGoff Can you get the front of the suit length alter if it's too long?
@@newbassplayer4005 yes, but you have to be aware of the button stance becoming too low, and the pockets being too close to the hem (especially if you have patch pockets).
I really appreciate this guide. I'm a blue collar guy in my mid 30's just looking to get some suits for church, and to not look out of place with my fit (Like if a white collar guy was to wear carhart and cowboy boots lol). I think with this guide I can at least come off as trying to be respectful. Thanks.
Glad to hear that!
isn't it amazing how having a flat belly makes so many clothes fit so much better on oneself?
yup
One point would like to add. A partial break is your safe bet as different shoes sit differently with your pants due to the heels or height construction of the shoes. You will notice your pants kissing some shoes while others barely touching it✌️
I’m a suspenders guy. I love the look while wearing a suite, and super comfortable.
I got my first 'custom' suit from SuitSupply. Not a lot of alternations needed to be made. And I'm glad I caught those parts of the suit that needed fixing. Definitely nice to have a tailor help you out in making you look the best that you can!
This is a great guide. I've worked in made to measure suiting for a few years, and each and every point is spot on. Well done.
I am still trying to get my suit perfect and just seems everytime a little bit off. Hope these tips will help. Thanks a lot!
Great video Brock! I was kind of thinking of another video idea . "How to look Stylishly Lazy at Home Without Looking Like a Slob" Lol.
Pants this tapered make the shoes look gigantic and put of proportion in my opinion. Especially if you have a larger shoe size, you start looking like a stickman on skis. Straight cut with full break give so much better proportions overall.
Correct! The hem of the pants should cover at least half of the shoe length if one doesn't want to look like they're wearing clown shoes.
Incredible video, really helped me understand what to look for. Can you link me to the grey vested suit you were wearing early in the video? That’s exactly the style and color I would like to find.
Thank god you acknowledge that fit is subjective-I feel like so many men's fashion youtubers out there give the impression that there's only one "correct" way to wear clothing.
Very little of a suit fit is subjective. For instance, jacket length, width, shoulders, collar, etc have hard and fast rules. Number of breaks in the trousers or sleeve length within set tolerances are less so
Saved two of my Dad's old 100%wool italian suits and I'm hoping they can be tailored to my fit. First time realizing how sharp I look in a suit. Got alot of dressing up to do while I'm still in prime territory.
Thank you for this video. My current off-the-rack jacket is "good enough" but not great in terms of fit, and this video helped me figure out the specific areas where the fit could be improved.
Great video Brock, I am looking at getting a new suit (grey). There are two general rules I keep in mind, wear a dress shirt to see how the jacket fits and a pair of dress shoes for the fit of the pant and break when being tailored. I am 5'5 with a medium/slim build. FYI, I would look into getting side adjusters for my pant.
Those are excellent tips!
Go with wide lapel 100%, a little wider shoulder is fine depending your head size, bad wide shoulder looks is mostly bad tailoring.
I've never worn any suit before
Definitely I will use your advices for getting the best suit for me
I think the classic drape fit with pleated high waisted full cut suit trouser and larger lapels is the best
My preference is a British cut. Strong shoulders, a generous lapel, and a tapered waist
Nice!
That's not British, that's a Zoot suit, guv'nor. The upper class British cut is famously generous in the waist and baggier at the thighs. Think King Charles and all the Lords. The hoi polloi in Britain may go curvier, but that's the Continental influence.
Does a British style favour closed quarters? I rather like a tapered waist with open quarters but not averse to the British shoulder structure and lapels.
Great video! Very in depth on the key areas. :)
Speaking of getting clothes tailored you have great information on how to find a tailor and what is possible to have tailored.
I find it really hard though on youtube or elsewhere to find any videos or guides with clear before and after pictures on how it can affect the fit and how much things can be changed.
I’ve been finding the pants to be tough to measure
Got one that was too skinny and one too lose but damn it’s annoying getting the wrong size
Thank you for this! I actually went in and spent an hour getting fitted for a custom suit and it took several weeks for them to make it and send it to me and when I tried it... the jacket felt worse than any off-the-shelf suit I have had but I wasn't sure if that meant I just didn't know anything. This video helped me realize they F'd up and I will get a refit on Saturday as the movement in my arms on the MEASURED TAILORED suit is restrictive and barely moving raises the shoulders.
Where I'm from (Venezuela) suits are made from really cheap fabrics BUT, you can look really good just by using the propper fit...FIT IS KING
People notice fit more than they notice fabric. Makes sense. Even the most ardent of fashionistas are not very well knowledgable about fabric because they get all their opinions from trends and guess work.
I wished I watched this before I went shopping I bought a blazer for 500 bucks from Hugo Boss and the sales person assured me it fit well but later I found out it is a sloppy fit even after they altered the sleeves, the cuffs still hit top of the knuckles and bottom a half inch below the crotch. I tried to return it or get a store credit and they refused, saying I chose the jacket. The next one will fit better. But hugo boss staff should not be trusted in assisting customers on the fit of a jacket.
Learned alot 3 days before a wedding 😂😂😂
Good video, Brock! It's great that you could provide so much information in 12 minutes. Antonio would turn this into a capital project! Plus, he would tell you to buy a sewing machine and do your own tailoring! I like the way you broke things down. There is only one thing I would have added, and that is the taper of the pant. I find heavier guys look a little odd when the pant is too tapered. Things should be proportional to your size in my opinion. Thanks! 😊
Even with bespoked suits, as we age and we physically change, and as we change our perception of fashion, the perfect fit will change.
I'd love to know where the pea coat is from, it looks fantastic on you. Thanks for the video.
Awesome suit guide. I agree with 99% of it, the 1% being I don't like the look of pleated pants. feels outdated to me. but hey, to each his own. Love the cuff trick to make sure the jacket length is right. hadn't heard of that before but will definitely be putting into practice
Some call it outdated, some call it classic.
@@roscoejones4335 : and some muscular types look strange without the pleat.
Bring the suit content back!! 😛
I appreciate this video! I went to Men's Wearhouse to rent a tux and they measured me in my city and shipped it out to another state or atleast my measurements to a local retailer to where I traveled to. I looked like a frumpy mess the day of formal event, drowning in an unattractive tuxedo that made me look wide & square like SpongeBob. 😅 So now, I'm trying to build my own go-to collections so the embarrassment never happens again, and your video really helps. Thanks
This was a very well thought out video with good and justified tips. One of the best on the topic. Top notch!
I appreciate that!
1:47 Adam Sandler did not forget to get his suit tailored he’s rocking his suit the same way he wears his baggy cargo shorts.😂😂😂
That's an acceptable fit. It used to be known as the American sack fit and was the staple in America until the 50s. It's a very vintage look. Robert Downey Jnr also pulls that off when he's in a three piece. Recently Americans are blindly copying the svelte Continental fit, forgetting that that fit is meant for the slimmer European physique. So many "trendy" Americans look like clowns with their body hugging blouse fits and socks visible even when standing because they went comically no break.
Good video! Hit the key points. I'ma natural 41L so off-the-rack is a little challenging, but if I'm patient different makers sizes are all different. So I can get into a 42L slim in one mfr and 40L in another. I don't mind paying for custom tailoring if I save by o-t-r options.
Friendly correction; arm hole can be altered. Depending on how much can be let out or taken in. Shoulder is a different complication better left alone.
Thank you SO MUCH for this current look at men's suits.
My son just appeared on TV and we realized that he desperately needs a correctly fitted suit. He is 24 years old, 6'2, 275 lb. Where should he look? He has had 2 suits before that no longer fit, and he's grown through several blue blazers. Do we go to a department store? Men's Wearhouse? An old school men's store? He works in central KY where clothes can be traditional which he doesn't mind, but he doesn't want to look 50. Custom is not an option due to cost. Approximately how much might he expect to have to pay? He will probably be buying a new navy blazer and khakis for more casual events especially in the south. I'd appreciate any advice you have. Thank you!
Hi. Need 7 suits and 7 Guayaberas. Thought about Macy's, then decided to check videos about suits. Thanks for the advice. I'm going to a tailor. Puerto Rico's tailor's access to material is short. So I'm going to the Dominican Republic. Did talk to Tailor Pedro Encarnación through his brother, also a tailor working in Ponce, Puerto Rico, Mr. Roque Encarnación.
Collar gaps might also be a consequence of big armholes on modern tailoring. Even MTM and some bespoke tailors still make their armholes kind of large which isn’t helpful. I’ve never got collar gaps with my vintage 40s suits tho.
It's because Americans are fatter on average now.
im a tail, i’d been able to down sizing 4 sizes down. so shoulder are no issue to fix.
just saying. an experience tailor should be able to help you!!
Some tips for a slim guy with a little tummy out. The waistcoat remains risen or lifted from front. Plz suggest how should it fit ? Also should the shirt sleeves be as fit as the jacket or a little loose ?
I'm amazed at this knowledge. I'm glad they make a suit for people that are 4'10" like you.
Regarding "No Break" pants length. At 10:45 speaker says "I like no break, I think it looks really good, especially for ???? Guys". Did you say "shorter guys " , "taller guys " or what guys ? Thanks.
Very late, but "for *shorter* guys"
For me the problem is a ridge between the shoulder blades. Happens with almost every suit/coat. I do have a very broad chest and shoulders and a slim waist (I'm a bodybuilder) but few off the rack suits fit my waist _and_ shoulders
I enjoyed the informative video. I have a question. I'm curious about the length of the jacket you wore. I bought a sports jacket this time and it was 76.5cm long. I am about 174.5cm tall, so please let me know if the figures are appropriate. Thank you.
Proportions between upper and lower body vary even in people of the same height, so there can be no single answer to this question.
your jackets are about 4cm too short by Neapolitan standards but with a couple possible exceptions they look right on you, how tall are you?
I went to Mens Wearhouse here in Utah, and found they are doing a custom suit deal for 400. Again, the material probably isn't like the greatest (I'm not real familiar with material so I'm assuming), but again, it will be a really good fit so I think it's worth it.
If the fit is right, and it's a non-polyester suit for $400, that's a great deal (no matter where you bought it).
Another option is Jos. A. Banks for cheap “custom” suits. If you have one in your area. I think their fabric quality may be a little bit better for the same price or less. They are still not a Brioni. But, do you really need a Brioni?
most of my suits are of an eye'talian cut and in my wild travels i picked up a nice old sch
soviet box cut suit and for banging about its a still a favourite
Any recommendation for off the shelf high rise dress pants? Lower rise pants, those that sit right on the waist line, are very common
what hair product are you using and how do you style it? :)
Very good explanation sir
That grey suit fit is🔥
Finding g a good tailor is a chore worth doing.
I avoid buying a short suit off the rack because the sleeves are always too short. Any advise? I know custom is an option but as we all know that can be a bit pricey.
where did you get those shoes?
Awesome stuff, concise and valuable
What are your thoughts on Spezzato style? Are you a fan or do you prefer to keep the suit jacket with its matching pants rather than mixing or matching? I have a few casual Blazers so obviously with those I can easily wear different pants since they were meant for it but Suit jackets can be a bit tricky sometimes. I currently have 2 suit jackets. One is a Solid Charcoal Grey and the other is a Medium Grey Glen plaid but with the first one I sometimes wonder if I should've just purchased it with matching pants like it was meant traditionally instead of as a separate you know what I mean? Anyway I still ponder about it but the plaid one is a little easier to wear seperately because of the casual nature of the pattern. Anyway just wanted to share some thoughts and get your perspective on Sprezzatura style. Appreciate the content as always!
What is the overcoat you feature teice in the video. Its exactly tje style I'm looking for.
I definitely think I have some sleeve pitch issues. Which I really don't know how to fix unless I start paying way more for my suits.
You don't need to pay more. It takes the right tailor. Plenty of overpriced tailors out there who screw up suits.
Do you still train in Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu?
I haven’t trained in a few years; been lifting weights instead. I’d like to go back to BJJ someday though, I miss it!
@@BrockMcGoff I need to lift more myself lol, but that's really awesome that the passion is still there 😁
Hey Modest Man. Can you please make an Every Day Carry update for 2022?
Coming in the next week or so!
I like belts because I think they help me look smaller. I am not overweight guy either, I am semi-built but the mid section and torso are always, seem like the hardest places to slim down and get definition!
Thanks Brock. Long-time follower. I have started eating healthier and working out. I want to buy myself a few suits as soon as I feel I am the right size; sort of as a reward for sticking with the diet and exercise.
The big thing is I now live in Asia, Thailand at the moment. I want to buy my first suit rather soon as I have lost enough weight and I will need it for business. The thing is the heat here is stifling, and I all ready have this thing where I feel so hot if I don’t have some breeze blowing on me. So no air flow and a suit equals sweating which I hate.
If I want a suit that I can reduce the size later at a tailor, and that will work in the heat, what material(s) do you recommend? Also, there are lots of incredibly inexpensive suits here which I took to mean they’re “cheap.” However, one of my friends said they make some great suits here in Thailand at a fraction of the price found in other parts of the world. Any thoughts or experience/knowledge of buying in this part of the world?
Also, I have several nice dress shirts. Can those be tailored, or should I have some dress shirts made for me? I read a review of a famous place here and the reviewer said he had dress shirts custom made and they’re the best fitting shirts he’s ever owned. But I have some semi-expensive Fredrick Taylor shirts that are 100% cotton or linen with French cuffs and my initials on them. Would like to keep them if they can be tailored. At the same time, perhaps there’s even a shirt material better for heat than what I own?
I like the idea of suspenders, but wonder if that would make me feel hotter in the suit? Last question, if I get suspenders, what should the suspenders match? The belt? Shoes? Suit? Tie? Sort of lost there.
Thanks so much in advance for your time and consideration. Wishing you happiness and prosperity. Cheers.
I'm not Brock but as a neighbour (I'm Malaysian) who likes to dress up I hope I can help you out here with a few of the questions.
In my experience, the humidity in Southeast Asia is the main killjoy in dressing up instead of the heat itself. Even an unlined jacket made with an open weave fabric could not stop the humidity from causing massive perspiration in my experience. The great news is that in most occasions where a suit is required, the venue is often very heavily air-conditioned. This helps a great deal in wearing a suit in our localities. But I must state that a half/quarter-lined jacket with an open-weave fabric such as Minnis Fresco, Holland and Sherry Crispaire etc. does help A LOT compared to a fully lined "all-season" wool as most of these "all-season" wool from European mills are made for the European climate. You can also consider wool/silk/linen blend or hopsack wool. Linen is great too but it is an inherently casual fabric. It will not be as suitable for a board meeting, interview, funeral etc.
Most suits can be altered to be smaller especially if it was initially made to your measurement. That means the shoulder and the length are already pretty settled in the dimensions. Usually we don't grow shorter in length and width of our shoulders that significantly so everything else is going to be ok for the tailor to alter. However if the suit is RTW, I would suggest you to look up a few guides on what a tailor can or cannot alter. Gentlemen's Gazette has a pretty comprehensive video guide on this topic. The two main things that a tailor cannot alter much on a jacket is the collar (that dreaded gap is pretty much unfixable in RTW), length (both the sleeve and the quarters as it will either make the sleeve buttons and the pockets to close to the bottom), and shoulder width.
Thailand is pretty well-known for tailored garment at a lower cost compared to American/European tailors. However, the really cheap ones often do not have fabrics that were mentioned earlier so if you can afford it do try to get tailors that do not offer those 24/48 hour suit services that are quite prevalent in the big cities especially in Bangkok. In the website Parisian Gentlemen, they have a list of well regarded and rather affordable tailors around SEA. Look up "affordable tailoring south east asia parisian gentlemen" and you should be able to find the article.
If your dress shirts fit you pretty well already, I do think you can just keep them. I have my shirts tailor made because my neck circumference is massive compared to the rest of my body. I need an L/XL size to button the collar but the torso, shoulder, and sleeve is only an S/M. If you have the same issue as mine (odd/disproportionate measurements), it's worth to get your shirts tailored. Cotton and linen are the best shirt materials for tropical weather IMO.
In terms of suspenders, they don't really cause that much heat. The issue you may run into however, is that your shirt may be pressed against your back and when you are sweating it really is a bad experience. I gravitate towards suspenders because I have a belly that pushes my trousers down which causes them to bunch at the ankle. If you have a waist that can hold the waistband up well, just get side adjusters on your trousers and let your hip keep the waistband up instead.
2024 I'll be getting my first custom made suit😮❤
AS A 1ST SUIT BUYER THIS IS SO HELPFUL. GOING FOR OFF THE RACK SUIT FROM DILLARD'S FOR NOW. THEN MAYBE TAILOR-MADE ON MY 2ND SUIT. ANY ADVICE WILL BE WELCOME.
Wonderful suits tutoring, very insightful! Love the simplicity explanation of how a handsome suit should be. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I just bought my second suit coming back from deployment. I didnt realize how big my back got and my jacket is tight on my first suit
This is pure gold. Thank you!
I stopped wearing suits about 11 years ago when I had a stroke. It is difficult for me to button the top two buttons of the shirt. I want to get back into wearing suits, any suggestions?
@@eloquent-nuance I love ties, and has been difficult to tie them. However two weeks ago I went to the symphony and I decided to get a suit and even though it took me a long time I got the tie done and enjoyed the night.
I watch your videos many times
Thank You for the Video 😀
Thanks for that information. I appreciate.
Great video, however, no tips on double breasted suits. Following your suggestion on how tied the jacket should be, I think double breasted suits should be I bit looser to give you that elegant look. What do you think? I owned 32 suits, most of them taylored others from the rack, nothing in my opinion is more elegant than a double breasted suit and/or a well taylored three piece suit. I thank you for helping us men to wear suits the way they suppose to be. Some men, for the most part, are ignorant about ways to dress formally. They think than wearing a suit makes it dressing formally. I wish more men should watch your video.
What about bunching behind my neck because of my shoulders? I seem to have this with any jacket I have.
Can this be fixed?
Great informative video. Thank you
Thank you so much for your help I am kind of poor man I always like to look good I love suits thank for advice on the things I need to watch out of god bless your heart ❤.
Excellent video!
" Make sure to get the Lapels!"
Adam West.
Thanks for the video. This is a great help.
great video, thanks
I got a slim fit off the rack suit and the vest and blazer fit perfectly. However, the pants have a low rise and it's tight in the upper thighs and crotch. Is there anything I can do to loosen the upper thighs and add more room in the crotch?
Thoughts on the Thom Browne shrunken suits? Luv them (especially someone that is shorter)
I always liked the aesthetic, but it can be taken to an extreme (to the point where it doesn't actually make sense for most dressy occasions, like a job interview, funeral or wedding).
Where is your overcoat from?
I second this - please tell us what brand the overcoat is!
The cup test is no good for people with long arms and short torso, nor for people with short arms and long torse. Both of which are fairly common.
thanks for this helpful video
Great information
really helpful review
Great video. Congratulations from Portugal.
super informative
I could wear a perfect fitting suit everyday
Do all the suits have little freedom of movement in the arms, like the armpits stuck together? For example, you can't move the arms to the sides at 90 degrees with your body without the whole suit rising... on the contrary, as if you can with a shirt and t-shirt..... please help
Just wondering what could I get for a $2,800 suit, like would I be able to get a really good high quality suit and be able to buy a second jacket with it? Or am I better off getting a single suit as this is will be my first suit.
For $2800 afford yourself a nice holiday in Thailand. They will be happy to make a quality $300 bespoke suit for you in Bangkok and it will take no more than a week. In the meantime enjoy beautiful beaches of Koh Samui. I hope that helps :)
If it's your first suit, you should not be blowing 2800 dollars on it. You will learn a lot from the mistakes of your first suit, it needs to be inexpensive.
Good advice Thanks I like my husband fit in his suits.
Great video
I have a short torso and long legs, so low rise is better for me?
I say get medium rise. Low rise will look ridiculous if you'll be wearing those pants 10 years from now.
Thanks. Great video on suit fit. Do you have any advice on car coats? Or jackets that have a suit look? What do you think of blazers with hood?
The pants are a bit too high resting slightly on the shoes is a better look, James Bond look is the perfect look imo
I thought Brocks looked a bit high when filmed in the long shot. I was seeing a gap. Otherwise I thought that grey suit was stunning
I think this is very much a personal preference. It really depends on region, current fashion, and pant construction. A lot of European slimmers suits have a higher hem than American cut suits. Especially those of older fit styles.
I personally have started to like the no break look for pants without cuffs/turn-ups. Just as long as they have a tapered or slimmer leg opening.
@@deanfowlkes If you have a no break tapered pants hem, it makes your shoes look longer, like you're wearing clown shoes. the pants hem should cover at least half of the shoe length to give classical proportions down there. Which is why no break tapered hems are a fashion disaster. It is a fashion faux pas when men following trends decide that it is okay to have their socks visible when standing.
@@Kids11111 - I can respect your opinion. It is only that, an opinion. An opinion that is following the trend that is relevant to your particular tastes. After all, fully visible stockings were around a lot longer than full-break trouser.
Personally, I prefer dress and casual boots rather than shoes. So, seeing my socks while I am standing is not an issue. While sitting, it would not matter where your break is. Overly long shoes and skinny ankles would still make you look like you are wearing clown shoes.
By the way, notice that my previous text said slimmer or tapered. Not the baggy look that characterized what men in the, 80s , and 90s wore. Or, what out of shape men wore to hide their proportions.
@@deanfowlkes I agree about stockings, but they were paired with the appropriate knee lengths of the time.
Classically the rule used to be that the trousers be wide enough at the hem to cover two thirds of the shoe length with a break being necessary. Now it is something akin to half. That ensures the total absence of the clown shoes effect because the proportions fool the eye. The skinny build of the ankles becomes irrelevant when hidden in that manner.
I know this will be further opinion, but I highly recommend the youtube channel "AskOkey" for anyone of similar thought to me.