Kick ass video! I just got the new Uniden R8 and bought the mount and wire as you instructed. I was wondering how I was going to run a wire under the headliner down to the fuse box. THX - not only saved me $ - but a couple hours and probably many FU's. Thank you.
Very clean! I have this on my Tacoma and was hoping I could do it on my TRX I have in order. Thanks for this! Question: would it be possible to also wire up a dash cam in addition to this radar setup? Or would that overload the mirrors power circuit?
Great video man!! I've been looking to do this on my Ram 1500 and you explained it perfectly! One question I have for you is, do you feel the redline is worth it over the Max 360 MKII? Trying to justify if the extra $300 is worth it.
Great job! I just mounted my (expensive) blend mount on my mirror and now need to hard wire it. Hope the Limited Ram is the same. Super stoked about this mod, especially due to the fact those stupid suction mounts keep falling no matter what. Ugh Sure appreciate the video
Thanks for the info. Very easy and quick to install. make sure you pay attention to the video. The first attempt I tapped the wrong connector. the one he said not to use.
Thank you. Followed the instruction to add the blendmount today and hardwired it based on your instructions. 👍. I went with hte Uniden R8 for my detector.
It’s also a good idea (learned from experience) when tapping into ANY OEM electrical wires to upgrade the correlating stock fuse for that device(s) to a bigger amp fuses to keep from blowing through fuses for whatever electronic device you’re tapping. Because after tapping it’s gonna pull a bit more power through that system. Example: (10 -> 20).
That sounds like a bad idea. When pulling power for the radar detector it’s a very low draw and upping the fuse could be a real issue if for some reason something started pulling more power than it should which is when the fuse would pop to stop the wires from overheating and causing a fire.
@@HorsePowerObsessed you’re right. But playing with smaller amp fuses as long as you don’t tie in too much extra current then bumping the stock fuse up by 5a or 10a more won’t hurt it any. I’ve been running it this way on my 2013 Raptor SVT for many years with no issues. I have a ton of extra lights and stuff running on it. But to each their own I guess.
@@HorsePowerObsessed I like your videos though brother. Please keep em coming. I wanna buy my own TRX soon and you’re teaching me about a lot of potential upgrades. Ty man;)
I'd still like to hardwire my C7 and know it's not hard. Just hate parting with nearly $200 for mount and wire. But it does look nice. I know it's going to happen. This is $100. For my C7 GS it was $150 for Blendmount but I think there was a $100 option. Still not sure what the difference was. But Blendmount recommended the $150 one.
Thanks once again dude, I can't believe I never knew this existed. I might need to rob the Redline from my Hellcat to match the red n black interior on the TRX and put my Max 360c from my sold Tacoma in the Challenger. Do you happen to know if I'd be needing the same mount in a Challenger?
@@HorsePowerObsessed I follow this guy and another guy, They both have ran numerous test on both of these Detectors as far as distance you can’t beat the R7 and new Valentine. ruclips.net/video/IecsYQ-9JbE/видео.html
Yup, I follow him as well. There's a lot more to the story than just distance with a radar detector. Overall, the Redline 360c is a better detector for my needs.
It definitely won't and it isn't frying anything on the C8 either if installed properly. I had it for over a year on my C8 without any issue. Someone is doing something incorrectly to have that happen.
I've bought three Mirror Tap Hardwires and every one of them only lasted about a month and then only worked intermittently. Has anyone else had this issue ?
CAUTION! If you have a 2025 RAM 1500, the plastic surround piece you need to remove around the mirror base has been slightly updated to be more "tucked" in around the cable and electrical parts. This causes less space around the plug. If your modified connector pins stick out, the tight space of the plastic housing will push on the pins and cause a short, which will pop the fuse for the mirror and possibly the camera for radar cruise. It's a pain in the dick because the plug pins on the 2025 are so damn tight that it's hard to shove the adapter pins. Even the base support that the mirror attaches to has been updated and does not allow you enough slack to pull the OEM plug farther out like you used to. Not worth the effort anymore.
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Every fast car (or truck) should have this protection and in this case, it can be done quite cheap! What do you guys think of this install?
Kick ass video! I just got the new Uniden R8 and bought the mount and wire as you instructed. I was wondering how I was going to run a wire under the headliner down to the fuse box. THX - not only saved me $ - but a couple hours and probably many FU's. Thank you.
You’re very welcome!
Very clean! I have this on my Tacoma and was hoping I could do it on my TRX I have in order. Thanks for this! Question: would it be possible to also wire up a dash cam in addition to this radar setup? Or would that overload the mirrors power circuit?
That’s likely too much. The desk cam requires more power and also an inverter in my experience it’s best to wire the dash cam to a fuse box
Great video man!! I've been looking to do this on my Ram 1500 and you explained it perfectly! One question I have for you is, do you feel the redline is worth it over the Max 360 MKII? Trying to justify if the extra $300 is worth it.
Great job! I just mounted my (expensive) blend mount on my mirror and now need to hard wire it. Hope the Limited Ram is the same. Super stoked about this mod, especially due to the fact those stupid suction mounts keep falling no matter what. Ugh Sure appreciate the video
Thank you! From what I’ve seen it should be the same!
This video was super helpful. Was able to wire my RAM Rebel with these instructions and save paying a shop to do it.
Glad it helped!!
When I hardwired my R7 in my Laramie, I removed the housing first therefore making it easier for the front tab to come off. Great video! 👍🏾
Good tip!
Thanks for the info. Very easy and quick to install. make sure you pay attention to the video. The first attempt I tapped the wrong connector. the one he said not to use.
Thank you!
Thank you. Followed the instruction to add the blendmount today and hardwired it based on your instructions. 👍. I went with hte Uniden R8 for my detector.
I'm glad I could help!
Hey man thx for this I just got it done in 30 minutes appreciate the instructions…👍🏾
Glad it helped!
Great video. I'm putting a Uniden R7 in my GT4 for a rally in June and just ordered the parts to tap it into the power wires above the mirror as well.
Thank you! Definitely a setup worthy of the GT4!
It’s also a good idea (learned from experience) when tapping into ANY OEM electrical wires to upgrade the correlating stock fuse for that device(s) to a bigger amp fuses to keep from blowing through fuses for whatever electronic device you’re tapping. Because after tapping it’s gonna pull a bit more power through that system. Example: (10 -> 20).
That sounds like a bad idea. When pulling power for the radar detector it’s a very low draw and upping the fuse could be a real issue if for some reason something started pulling more power than it should which is when the fuse would pop to stop the wires from overheating and causing a fire.
@@HorsePowerObsessed you’re right. But playing with smaller amp fuses as long as you don’t tie in too much extra current then bumping the stock fuse up by 5a or 10a more won’t hurt it any. I’ve been running it this way on my 2013 Raptor SVT for many years with no issues. I have a ton of extra lights and stuff running on it. But to each their own I guess.
@@HorsePowerObsessed I like your videos though brother. Please keep em coming. I wanna buy my own TRX soon and you’re teaching me about a lot of potential upgrades. Ty man;)
Really good job. Clean and easy. Really appreciate it.
No problem! Thank you!!
I'd still like to hardwire my C7 and know it's not hard. Just hate parting with nearly $200 for mount and wire. But it does look nice. I know it's going to happen. This is $100. For my C7 GS it was $150 for Blendmount but I think there was a $100 option. Still not sure what the difference was. But Blendmount recommended the $150 one.
Depending on which radar detector you’re using you can use this exact amount for $100 it’s the same one that I have in my car amzn.to/3wj7cfO
Did you mount the fitcamx with this radar detector using power from the mirror?
Sure did!
@ any issues with both tapped to mirror power?
Thanks once again dude, I can't believe I never knew this existed. I might need to rob the Redline from my Hellcat to match the red n black interior on the TRX and put my Max 360c from my sold Tacoma in the Challenger. Do you happen to know if I'd be needing the same mount in a Challenger?
You're quite welcome! I believe it is the same mount. 👍👍
I'm still catching up on your older videos Justin and as usual, this one is excellent! 👍👍Save the Wave 🙋♂
Thanks, Peter! I appreciate the support as always!
perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Did you just stick the pins into the existing plugs ?
Yup. No splicing required.
Yes and no. Lol. I’m watching just in case I get a real truck. 😂
🤣🤣🤣 thanks!
Did this in my Charger.
Awesome! It’s a really clean set up!
Will the wiring be the same for a TRX without the mirror/camera combo?
Yes. There is still power running to your mirror even if you don’t have the camera mirror.
The redline is nice I have one but my Uniden R7 is better in my opinion.
I looked at those as well as a few others but in my opinion the redline 360c was the winner for my usage needs.
@@HorsePowerObsessed I follow this guy and another guy, They both have ran numerous test on both of these Detectors as far as distance you can’t beat the R7 and new Valentine. ruclips.net/video/IecsYQ-9JbE/видео.html
Yup, I follow him as well. There's a lot more to the story than just distance with a radar detector. Overall, the Redline 360c is a better detector for my needs.
@@dlang1009 Tests are always subjective, go with what works for you. I went Redline 360C as well.
Hopefully it doesn't fry the heated mirrors like it was doing to the C8 Corvette if you have them.
It definitely won't and it isn't frying anything on the C8 either if installed properly. I had it for over a year on my C8 without any issue. Someone is doing something incorrectly to have that happen.
@@HorsePowerObsessed can you do a video of the same install for the C8
I absolutely will!
I haven't heard of issues frying mirrors on C7 and there's more than a few done. C8 issue is news to me.
There was never any issues on the C7 but apparently someone install theirs incorrectly on a c8 and caused this issue.
Hi, can we do this to dashcam for ram trx as well? thanks in advance
Not exactly, but stay tuned because I have a dash cam video coming that is sure to blow minds of people wanting to add one to their TRX.
@@HorsePowerObsessed thank you so much, i am planning to add dash cam on my trx but dont like the traditional cable.
Is the magnet included with the redline 360 purchase or is it separate?
Can this be done with the C7?
Yes it sure can. Same wire works, too!
@@HorsePowerObsessed cool
Radar detector link ?
amzn.to/3VgH7tg
How did you remove the first middle black piece? Just pull?
Yes. Put your fingers in at the top by the headliner and pull down.
Yall must have small fingers? I can’t get my fingers in there! Any other way to get that first piece off?
I've bought three Mirror Tap Hardwires and every one of them only lasted about a month and then only worked intermittently. Has anyone else had this issue ?
That’s weird. This one is going on over a year for me without any issues and I have one in my Corvette that’s been going for four years.
Awesome!!
Thanks!
Nice
Thanks
CAUTION! If you have a 2025 RAM 1500, the plastic surround piece you need to remove around the mirror base has been slightly updated to be more "tucked" in around the cable and electrical parts. This causes less space around the plug. If your modified connector pins stick out, the tight space of the plastic housing will push on the pins and cause a short, which will pop the fuse for the mirror and possibly the camera for radar cruise. It's a pain in the dick because the plug pins on the 2025 are so damn tight that it's hard to shove the adapter pins. Even the base support that the mirror attaches to has been updated and does not allow you enough slack to pull the OEM plug farther out like you used to. Not worth the effort anymore.