That secondary shaft on the top is an in-drive shaft. If you wanted to use transmission with larger motors. Take the motor out from the transmission. And make a motor mount for the motor you want to run mounted behind the transmission facing the secondary shaft aka that top shaft. Using one of the axles as a driveshaft attach the motor to the transmission. You can now run whatever size motor you can fit in the truck. Like maybe a 540. Very possible Also could be used as a PTO to lift a dump bed in a wpl b series truck
Hahahaha Thanks for posting this 3 years ago LOL.... I messed up my gear box and now i need to get this metal upgrade. I am going to get a new esc too cause this green board v2 has a gutless Reverse. But now i repacked my gear box and got it going but reverse is crunchy LOL funny. frustrating LOL. New video up of the paint job and portal axels before i messed up the gears,. :)
This is actually going on 4 years old! I started the channel in July and pulled the plug a month later and decided to start one again. This is one of the first videos I posted on the second incarnation of this channel. It kind of amazes me that this still turns up in 370 motor searches. It's had a crazy amount of views (for a channel my size.)
@@VermontScaleCustoms So this Green board v2 30a esc says it can run a 370 ? But i am thinking i should just get a 1060 knock off 60a esc ? Stock 500mah battery is not cutting it anymore. i been using a 1500 mah and it seemjs to help. reverse is just so gutless. Even before i destroyed the gearbox LOL
@@VermontScaleCustoms Found a 370 an metal gear box and a 60a esc on Aliexpress when i get money. This thing will be all metal except trus rods still plastic LOL Thank You Friend
6 days, 5 days in transit...... Just Cleared Customs in US. Normally in LA Then to Oregon. This weekend Maybe. Thinking i might need to get Linkages, These stock plastic ones are the last thing left LOL I had to do some monkey work to get them on the Metal truss mount on axel. Haha Worked. Hope you having a good week.
Hi, do you remember if you had issues with putting the body back on the chassis? I have c64-1 and doing this upgrade. the underside of the body hits the top side of the gearbox and wont fit now. I was wondering how you went on about fixing if you also faced such issue? Thanks jn advance and thanks for the video
I personally didn't have any problems. This is a C24 compared to the C64. It has entirely different design. Unfortunately, I don't have a C64 and have not done any mods to one. I cannot say whether or not it would work. Sorry I can't help!
I actually have no experience with the WPL 2 speed motor. I've only ever used these aftermarket 370 single speed for crawling. I've heard people say they like this 370 gearing better for crawling. The 2 speed is nice and I know plenty of guys use that too.
@@VermontScaleCustoms I bought a C24-1KM from AliExpress, it came with the 370 alloy motor but the screws are missing and the metal casing doesn't even have threads anyway. What a joke. I guess you should only buy from WPL directly. Also got a bunch of other screws missing too. It's a proper pain in arse. I wish they would say what the screw sizes are.in the manual. They just number 1 to 5.
Unless you have the new 30A WPL esc, stock electronics are not powerful enough to run this motor correctly. I recommend upgrading the ESC to a the new WPL 30A or buying your own 40A or 60A as well as using your own radio system.
did you buy your WPL C14 as a RTR sir? mine is an RTR and after a few days everything came out slow, and i noticed the gearbox was somewhat stopping when touched even in a slight one, and also when i steer right it stop and kinda bowing..what could be wrong?
Hey, thanks for watching. Yes, I did buy my original C14 as an RTR. Ity didn't take long to decide to modify everything on it. Just be sure to lubricate everything and be sure nothing in the drivetrain is binding. If it's stock, it takes a few days to break in and then everything usually gets smoother. They're plastic so they're also not indestructible, so you gotta be careful. Be sure the battery is charged, (gotta say it.) And be sure the remote batteries are fresh. Other than that, if you are going to get in to modding these, head over to Facebook and join facebook.com/groups/WPLRCOfficial As for your steering, be sure your servo is centered before putting the servo horn on. Adjust your L/R steering adjustment on the control, and you should be all set. Those are plastic gear servos and one of the first things to go if you are hard on them. So, again, take care when running it.
If you were driving on nothing but flat ground, it might work, I suppose. They're definitely cheap enough to replace if you burn one up. They run really well on the Hobbywing 1625, 40A, 60A esc. You can run them on a 1080 if you want but I think it's overkill.
Hey man, I put the same motor in and now the rear axle skips a lot because of the angle of the drive shaft. Did you have that problem? I still have the stock plastic axles and everything else. Just the upgraded motor
By the time I had upgraded to the 370, this truck had all the metal upgrades done underneath. I've never experienced any problems with binding before, myself. One big advantage of having the turnbuckle-style links is being able to adjust the differential angle so it takes a little of the pressure off of the U-Joints. My recommendation would be to keep upgrading everything until it's all metal underneath so you gain the adjustability and durability. Those 370 motors have plenty of torque to twist up anything that's not metal. If you haven't upgraded the drive shafts, that will most likely be the first thing to go. The 370 torque twist is hard to combat with plastic 4-link suspension. You need to be able adjust the oils to compensate for the amount of twist the power of that motor can send to the chassis just by pressing the accelerator. So, yeah, my suggestion would be to go for the full metal upgrade makeover.
@@VermontScaleCustoms thanks man! I ordered some different drive shafts that are metal and not the ball and socket type. Ordered some metal parts from banggood but it's been months now. Thanks for the quick reply!
@@VermontScaleCustoms hello. Thank you for the good answer. I want to make my c24 a little faster so I added the same motor and gearbox as in the video to my wishlist. The rest is in original condition. If I hadn't read this comment from you, my C24 would have been ruined. Will this upgrade help increase vehicle speed? Or is this upgrade for another purpose?
Hey, I’m sorry to hear about your father. I hope you keep your Vermont name a friend of mine has done tie-dyes for probably I’m guessing since the 60s late 60s and he moved to Tennessee but kept his Vermont name. His company was called died in Vermont. he was pretty famous, came up with a lot of different designs but my point being is that he kept his name Which I find really cool where it all started hey, don’t quote me on this but I’m pretty sure if you needed more length you would be able to use an axle shaft for that transmission anyways, I look forward to watching more of your content it’s been a while have a safe trip Sorry again.
Thanks, Jeremy, I've definitely been thinking about what to do for the channel name. Keeping the name certainly makes it much easier for moving back to VT after this house sells. (which could take years ... we shall see.) I didn't want to revert back to Mark's RC because it just sounds so generic. I'll most likely keep it the same and your input certainly helps give reason to do so. As for this motor, this was one of the first, if not THE first, video I may have uploaded/reuploaded when I started my channel 3 years ago. Once upon a time, I started Mark's RC but then deleted it just a couple weeks later, thinking at the time that the world didn't need yet another RC channel. About 3 weeks later, I decided to continue with it and so I ran through and re-uploaded a bunch of stuff that I had taken down. This video was one of them. And it still continues to produce watch time every month. That said, these trucks don't even exist in this form any more. This was my first WPL C14 which has been torn down and rebuilt at least a dozen times since this video. I'm all settled into the Midwest at this point. Happily, my parents have a tiny bit of land to mess around on and some of the only rocks I've seen within miles right in the yard. Got lucky on that front having a micro crawler course already here that even has parts that challenge my Bully II rig. I've got some Mini Z video I did last night from the new location. Still editing and I hope to have it up by maybe tomorrow if I get time to finish it.
If you search YT for "380 motor on WPL gearbox" this video pops up. ruclips.net/video/AvCS7oJZlhY/видео.htmlsi=Sp2tw9DUUKDOr-oB It looks like it requires some modification. If I'm not mistaken, there's a brushless out now that uses the same mounting pattern as the 370.
@@VermontScaleCustoms what about a 380 brushed motor with the wpL gearbox on a 110 scale rc car im only gonna use it for flat ground on a rc lowrider car build
Flat ground on a low rider might work just fine. I can't recommend that kind of setup for any offroad, though. You might even get drift speeds from the right 370/380/gearbox combo.
Wow, watching the relic videos, huh? This is back when I had zero clue and was even worse at making videos. I can't believe this one has done as well as what it did. So many better videos out there now. Ancient times in RC history!
@@hellofromsoutheastalaskarc7517 It's funny that it still pops up in searches. Has to be one of my worst videos but one of my most popular. Proof that I just don't understand how RUclips works at all.
@@VermontScaleCustoms how did you like the 370? I'm getting ready to put one in my mn99s Maxi Trac and Esc and receiver and transmitter. Waiting for metal drive shaft
I run the aftermarket 370 in all of my WPL & MN trucks with the exception of the Green Machine. That has an RGT 370 which is higher Kv. They're good motors as long as you give them at least a 40A ESC to run off of. They like current but they stall right out if you don't have enough to juice them up. I've burned up a lot of them over the last couple of years by running WPL & MN electronics with them. I'd say if you run a 60A ESCS you're fine.
Hello, thanks for watching, sorry it took me a few days to respond. It should just be held in place by a hex head set screw. Loosen that and it should slide right off.
That secondary shaft on the top is an in-drive shaft. If you wanted to use transmission with larger motors. Take the motor out from the transmission. And make a motor mount for the motor you want to run mounted behind the transmission facing the secondary shaft aka that top shaft. Using one of the axles as a driveshaft attach the motor to the transmission. You can now run whatever size motor you can fit in the truck. Like maybe a 540. Very possible
Also could be used as a PTO to lift a dump bed in a wpl b series truck
Great answer! I'm also want to figure out what this shaft for.
Okay.
Hay😮
A guitar, multi-effect gadgets, and RC!..now i don't feel alone hahaha..thank goodness man!..got same taste and hobbies!..😂
Too many hobbies! I play drums primarily these days. Haven't touched a guitar in years, it seems.
Ordered a 370 an gear box and a 60a esc. today... Excited.
Nice, you'll be all set.
Hahahaha Thanks for posting this 3 years ago LOL.... I messed up my gear box and now i need to get this metal upgrade. I am going to get a new esc too cause this green board v2 has a gutless Reverse. But now i repacked my gear box and got it going but reverse is crunchy LOL funny. frustrating LOL. New video up of the paint job and portal axels before i messed up the gears,. :)
This is actually going on 4 years old! I started the channel in July and pulled the plug a month later and decided to start one again. This is one of the first videos I posted on the second incarnation of this channel. It kind of amazes me that this still turns up in 370 motor searches. It's had a crazy amount of views (for a channel my size.)
@@VermontScaleCustoms So this Green board v2 30a esc says it can run a 370 ? But i am thinking i should just get a 1060 knock off 60a esc ? Stock 500mah battery is not cutting it anymore. i been using a 1500 mah and it seemjs to help. reverse is just so gutless. Even before i destroyed the gearbox LOL
Yes, aftermarket 60A with a Deans/T connector or XT-60 and run 3s on it. That will breathe some life into it.
@@VermontScaleCustoms Found a 370 an metal gear box and a 60a esc on Aliexpress when i get money. This thing will be all metal except trus rods still plastic LOL Thank You Friend
I think I have a spare set of WPL metal trusses. Let me look.
6 days, 5 days in transit...... Just Cleared Customs in US. Normally in LA Then to Oregon. This weekend Maybe. Thinking i might need to get Linkages, These stock plastic ones are the last thing left LOL I had to do some monkey work to get them on the Metal truss mount on axel. Haha Worked. Hope you having a good week.
Grab one of these kits from Amazon. a.co/d/73Ppk7h
@@VermontScaleCustoms Perfect. Thank you buddy. 370 an gearbox should be here Saturday. Yayyyyy so excited,.
Your wiring skills is just as good as mine...I'm subbing 🤭
Haha! Thanks for watching and commenting. Thanks for the sub, too! 👏
Hi, do you remember if you had issues with putting the body back on the chassis? I have c64-1 and doing this upgrade. the underside of the body hits the top side of the gearbox and wont fit now. I was wondering how you went on about fixing if you also faced such issue? Thanks jn advance and thanks for the video
I personally didn't have any problems. This is a C24 compared to the C64. It has entirely different design. Unfortunately, I don't have a C64 and have not done any mods to one. I cannot say whether or not it would work. Sorry I can't help!
@@VermontScaleCustoms thank you, i ended up carving some of the bottom out to fit the new gearbox.
Awesome vidoe my rc friend, can ypu tell me what grease did you use for that motor? Thanks.
It's right in the title of the video. It's a 370 motor.
@@VermontScaleCustoms you didn't understand my question, witch one GREASE did you use?
@@RC-CARS-WORLD Just the standard blue grease that comes with WPL trucks.
It was early, I have bad eyes and need glasses. I either misread your comment or otherwise. I thought you had asked what motor I used. Sorry.
Do you have to have the reduction box on or can you run the motor straight to the box?
You definitely want the gear reduction for crawling.
@@VermontScaleCustoms ahh thankyou I just ordered one this morning with the right wires for the hobbywing 1060 ready to go
Great, congrats! Yes, the 1060 will run that just fine.
Do you prefer this or the two speed ? Thanks
I actually have no experience with the WPL 2 speed motor. I've only ever used these aftermarket 370 single speed for crawling. I've heard people say they like this 370 gearing better for crawling. The 2 speed is nice and I know plenty of guys use that too.
@@VermontScaleCustoms I bought a C24-1KM from AliExpress, it came with the 370 alloy motor but the screws are missing and the metal casing doesn't even have threads anyway. What a joke. I guess you should only buy from WPL directly. Also got a bunch of other screws missing too. It's a proper pain in arse. I wish they would say what the screw sizes are.in the manual. They just number 1 to 5.
Does that engine work with the original controller/receiver?
Unless you have the new 30A WPL esc, stock electronics are not powerful enough to run this motor correctly. I recommend upgrading the ESC to a the new WPL 30A or buying your own 40A or 60A as well as using your own radio system.
did you buy your WPL C14 as a RTR sir? mine is an RTR and after a few days everything came out slow, and i noticed the gearbox was somewhat stopping when touched even in a slight one, and also when i steer right it stop and kinda bowing..what could be wrong?
Hey, thanks for watching. Yes, I did buy my original C14 as an RTR. Ity didn't take long to decide to modify everything on it. Just be sure to lubricate everything and be sure nothing in the drivetrain is binding. If it's stock, it takes a few days to break in and then everything usually gets smoother. They're plastic so they're also not indestructible, so you gotta be careful. Be sure the battery is charged, (gotta say it.) And be sure the remote batteries are fresh. Other than that, if you are going to get in to modding these, head over to Facebook and join facebook.com/groups/WPLRCOfficial
As for your steering, be sure your servo is centered before putting the servo horn on. Adjust your L/R steering adjustment on the control, and you should be all set. Those are plastic gear servos and one of the first things to go if you are hard on them. So, again, take care when running it.
Hi can i use this 370 motor with gearbox on a 110scale rc crawler
Definitely not. It's too small. You want a minimum 540 can in a 1/10 crawler.
@@VermontScaleCustoms im building a lowrider not for speed or climbing
If you were driving on nothing but flat ground, it might work, I suppose. They're definitely cheap enough to replace if you burn one up. They run really well on the Hobbywing 1625, 40A, 60A esc. You can run them on a 1080 if you want but I think it's overkill.
@@VermontScaleCustoms yea will be on flat ground won't be for speed or climbing what else esc can I use with out blowing the motor up
Hello and thank youuuu !! Are you using the same stock electronic plate ? I tried it and it wasnt running smoothly. Waiting on the upgraded plate.
Yes, all stock electronics on this. This motor and drivetrain were installed in my D90 and I used the MN electronics and it worked with that, too.
hi, the result was more torque and less speed?
About the same speed as the stock 180 motor but a lot more torque. Much better control for steeper climbing and getting over obstacles.
Hey man, I put the same motor in and now the rear axle skips a lot because of the angle of the drive shaft. Did you have that problem? I still have the stock plastic axles and everything else. Just the upgraded motor
By the time I had upgraded to the 370, this truck had all the metal upgrades done underneath. I've never experienced any problems with binding before, myself. One big advantage of having the turnbuckle-style links is being able to adjust the differential angle so it takes a little of the pressure off of the U-Joints. My recommendation would be to keep upgrading everything until it's all metal underneath so you gain the adjustability and durability. Those 370 motors have plenty of torque to twist up anything that's not metal. If you haven't upgraded the drive shafts, that will most likely be the first thing to go. The 370 torque twist is hard to combat with plastic 4-link suspension. You need to be able adjust the oils to compensate for the amount of twist the power of that motor can send to the chassis just by pressing the accelerator. So, yeah, my suggestion would be to go for the full metal upgrade makeover.
@@VermontScaleCustoms thanks man! I ordered some different drive shafts that are metal and not the ball and socket type. Ordered some metal parts from banggood but it's been months now. Thanks for the quick reply!
@@VermontScaleCustoms hello. Thank you for the good answer. I want to make my c24 a little faster so I added the same motor and gearbox as in the video to my wishlist. The rest is in original condition. If I hadn't read this comment from you, my C24 would have been ruined. Will this upgrade help increase vehicle speed? Or is this upgrade for another purpose?
Hey, I’m sorry to hear about your father. I hope you keep your Vermont name a friend of mine has done tie-dyes for probably I’m guessing since the 60s late 60s and he moved to Tennessee but kept his Vermont name. His company was called died in Vermont. he was pretty famous, came up with a lot of different designs but my point being is that he kept his name Which I find really cool where it all started hey, don’t quote me on this but I’m pretty sure if you needed more length you would be able to use an axle shaft for that transmission anyways, I look forward to watching more of your content it’s been a while have a safe trip Sorry again.
Thanks, Jeremy, I've definitely been thinking about what to do for the channel name. Keeping the name certainly makes it much easier for moving back to VT after this house sells. (which could take years ... we shall see.) I didn't want to revert back to Mark's RC because it just sounds so generic. I'll most likely keep it the same and your input certainly helps give reason to do so.
As for this motor, this was one of the first, if not THE first, video I may have uploaded/reuploaded when I started my channel 3 years ago. Once upon a time, I started Mark's RC but then deleted it just a couple weeks later, thinking at the time that the world didn't need yet another RC channel. About 3 weeks later, I decided to continue with it and so I ran through and re-uploaded a bunch of stuff that I had taken down. This video was one of them. And it still continues to produce watch time every month.
That said, these trucks don't even exist in this form any more. This was my first WPL C14 which has been torn down and rebuilt at least a dozen times since this video.
I'm all settled into the Midwest at this point. Happily, my parents have a tiny bit of land to mess around on and some of the only rocks I've seen within miles right in the yard. Got lucky on that front having a micro crawler course already here that even has parts that challenge my Bully II rig.
I've got some Mini Z video I did last night from the new location. Still editing and I hope to have it up by maybe tomorrow if I get time to finish it.
Hi can i use a 380 or 390 brushed motor on that wpL gearbox
If you search YT for "380 motor on WPL gearbox" this video pops up. ruclips.net/video/AvCS7oJZlhY/видео.htmlsi=Sp2tw9DUUKDOr-oB
It looks like it requires some modification. If I'm not mistaken, there's a brushless out now that uses the same mounting pattern as the 370.
@@VermontScaleCustoms can i use that 370 motor and wpL gearbox on a 110 scale rc car
The 370 was really made for 1/12 -1/16. I personally wouldn't because I don't think it would last long under that much load.
@@VermontScaleCustoms what about a 380 brushed motor with the wpL gearbox on a 110 scale rc car im only gonna use it for flat ground on a rc lowrider car build
Flat ground on a low rider might work just fine. I can't recommend that kind of setup for any offroad, though. You might even get drift speeds from the right 370/380/gearbox combo.
Hello from southeast alaska how's your day going bro
Wow, watching the relic videos, huh? This is back when I had zero clue and was even worse at making videos. I can't believe this one has done as well as what it did. So many better videos out there now. Ancient times in RC history!
@@VermontScaleCustoms yeah I was looking up wpl and this video popped up. So I checked it out bro
@@hellofromsoutheastalaskarc7517 It's funny that it still pops up in searches. Has to be one of my worst videos but one of my most popular. Proof that I just don't understand how RUclips works at all.
@@VermontScaleCustoms how did you like the 370? I'm getting ready to put one in my mn99s Maxi Trac and Esc and receiver and transmitter. Waiting for metal drive shaft
I run the aftermarket 370 in all of my WPL & MN trucks with the exception of the Green Machine. That has an RGT 370 which is higher Kv. They're good motors as long as you give them at least a 40A ESC to run off of. They like current but they stall right out if you don't have enough to juice them up. I've burned up a lot of them over the last couple of years by running WPL & MN electronics with them. I'd say if you run a 60A ESCS you're fine.
Hii good videos, are the stock electronic save when i upgrade to 370 motor ? I scary the electronic can be broke.
Yes, I used the stock electronics with the upgraded motor.
Hey 👋. Good video ,could you tell me how you got the gear off the shaft? Do I need a puller ?..
Hello, thanks for watching, sorry it took me a few days to respond. It should just be held in place by a hex head set screw. Loosen that and it should slide right off.