Modular 4.6 3v Short Block Build |
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- Опубликовано: 28 июл 2024
- In this video I cover the short block build of the aluminum 3V 4.6 I put into my 2000 Mustang GT. I had the block decked, cleaned and honed for the new Mahle forged pistons at Livernois Motorsports. I paired them with a set of Eagle forged connecting rods. All told, if I had known I was going to be replacing the entire rotating assembly, as I did [due to unfortunate machine work on my crankshaft], I probably would have just built a stroker motor. Though, I've heard the longer throw on the crank doesn't like the revs as much as the stock 4.6 does.
The flat-top Mahle pistons brought this engine up to a compression ratio of ~11:1. A nice bump from stock and will help in squeezing coyote power out of this bad boy.
Which leads me to the question I get from time to time- "Why not just coyote swap it?"
I have a few reasons.
1.) Cost. The coyote is a much more expensive engine to buy. Even a used truck motor. I picked this 3V 4.6 up for $750 and have less than $4000 into the rebuild. And all in, less than half of what it would have cost me to do the 'yote swap. It runs on the stock 2V ECU, so there is no need for aftermarket ECU swap or the control pack. And on these cars, the factory cluster only gets along with the stock computer. Adding aftermarket engine controls would mean aftermarket gauges, as well.
While there is a better selection of parts available to swap the coyote into this car, such as headers, that's also an added cost. I was able to save money on headers also by cutting the 2V flanges off and welding on 3V flanges.
2.) Weight. This 3V has an aluminum block and weighs about ~25# less than the coyote. Not to mention, the additional weight of the coyote is in the heads, which is up high, exactly where you don't want it.
3.) Cost to operate. This maybe should be 1b. But, the 3V only has 2 camshafts and 24 valves. Whereas the coyote has 4 cams and 32 valves. Upgrading camshafts and valve train in any OHC motor comes with a big price tag. But the camshaft kit for a Coyote is about double the cost of cams for the 3V. And add in cost for the additional valves, followers and lash adjusters.
The downside of the swap compared to a Coyote is obviously power. This engine, the way I built it, puts about the same power to the wheels as a Gen II Coyote would in stock form. And it's just about a max effort, streetable NA build. So, if making as much power as possible is of high importance to you, you probably want to look seriously at the Coyote over the 4.6 in general.
When it comes to tracking SN95 Mustangs, power is not the only thing they lack. There's also $5-10,000+ worth of suspension, chassis, brakes and wheel and tire upgrades to be considered. Which, is going to be true of most any road vehicle that is being repurposed as a track toy, of course. But the SN95 offers a nice starting point as the aftermarket is huge for these cars and you can pick them up for a very good price, considering the last new edge made is almost 20 years old at this point. So, if you're trying to add some respectable power on a tighter budget like I was, have some fabrication skills and don't mind the effort, I do still recommend this engine as a viable swap.
Parts I used for this engine build:
Mahle Forged Pistons
Eagle Forged Connecting Rods
Clevite [Mahle] Main and Rod Bearings
OEM Steel Crankshaft
2013 GT500 Oil Pan, Oil Pump, Pickup Tube and Windage Tray
Intro: (0:00)
File Fit Piston Rings: (0:36)
Balancing Connecting Rods: (2:32)
Balancing Pistons: (3:27)
Deburring/Prepping Block: (4:57)
Main Bearings: (6:44)
Torque Main Bolts: (7:10)
Blueprint Mains: (8:35)
Issues with Crankshaft: (9:35)
Installing Main Bearings and Crankshaft: (12:33)
Installing and Torquing Main Bolts: (14:19)
Crankshaft End Play: (17:03)
Blueprint Rods: (17:18)
Piston/Rod Assembly: (19:16)
Installing Rings: (20:08)
Prepping Cylinders: (20:58)
Installing Pistons: (21:35)
Torque Rod Bolts: (22:28)
Piston-to-Deck Clearance: (22:55)
Oil Pump|Pickup|Windage Tray|Oil Pan: (23:04)
Outro: (23:23)
3V Mustang GT | 3V SN95 3V New Edge Mustang | 3V Engine Swap | Maximum Motorsports Track Build | Engine Build | Short Block 
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As a builder I will say that was an excellent video with sharp detail and that will help a lot of people out there good job
Wow, thank you for the nice compliment! Thanks man.
@@BradfordsGarage sure thing guys
Been thinking about the future of my 4.6 and watching detailed videos like this of build processes gets me excited!
Get after it! 🤠
Holy shit dude... this video is high quality. Good work man
Thanks!
One of the most educational and theraputic videos on youtube, thanks!
Hey, thanks! Glad you enjoyed it ;)
Very good video. Very thorough and detailed. The 3v nemak block imo is stronger than the teksid. It was made with more aluminum in structure points than the teksid was. And it has more support girdles in the casting. Along with billet main caps like the 5.4 aluminum block they are extremely similar.
This was extremely helpful!! Just started a 3v build and this video gave me insight!!
Thanks, man! I try not to go overboard with details as it's usually just very helpful to watch someone do something. So, if you have questions about specifics once you get into it, don't hesitate to reach out. Happy to help. Good luck!
Absolutely helpful 👌
@@tonygarrett7988 Glad you found it useful ;)
Great job! You have made a very informative and enjoyable video. Thank you!
Thank you!
Done a few push rod ford engines in the past. Currently have a 4.6 2V. Going to be building it this coming winter. Little hesitant having never done a OHC engine before. Great video. Very well done. Thank you!
Hey, no problem! Glad you're going to give these mod motors a go.
@@BradfordsGarageI’ve never built a complete engine before would this be incredibly difficult to do for the first time?
@@icebox829 Its hard to say without knowing your background and ability level…depends on a lot of things. I’d say look for books in building whatever motor you’re wanting to build.
@@BradfordsGarage never built any engines but I know how to use tools and I know how engines work. But I’ll def look into some books
I loved this, just learned about/ did degreeing on my 2v camshafts last week. Planning to take on a shortblock assembly soon. This was a great video.
Thanks! Good luck!
Great Video Brad!
Thanks, Travis!
Man am i glad i found this channel! Doing my first rebuild soon but its a bit different. Got a NPI iron block I'm putting 3v heads on. Gonna be trying my best to get 350whp out of it NA in my 03 Gt.
Nice! 350 wheel is very attainable. Feel free to reach out if you need anything. 🍻
outstanding.....what precision...
Thank you very much!
Fantastic dude! Looking to build my 3v block with forged pistons for a single turbo which I currently have on the stock block and it's.. sketchy to say the least. Thanks for the help!
Nice! Depending on how much boost you're running you can get away with that for a while, as you've discovered. Lots of mod motors run boost on stock internals and they hold up with a good tune. Good luck on your build and thanks for watching! Don't hesitate to reach out if you need anything.
@@BradfordsGarage Hey here's a dumb question for you, when you blueprinted your mains you did a full torque sequence on TTY bolts. Are you concerned with torqueing the TTY bolts twice?
@@17456spartan That was something I had to look deeper into, myself, and basically go on the recommendations of others. I didn't use my new bolts to check main clearances, but the old set. From what I understand, the bolts will still tighten down enough to give accurate readings, you just wouldn't want them back in service (though, I did find a handful of guys who reuse them a couple times, go figure.).
Got a new subscriber today for sure! Good luck with the build!
Hey, thanks! Long block assembly coming up shortly...she's been burning up the track this summer!
Great video!
Thanks!
Installing a new clutch and flywheel friction disc, i never got all the black off! i went through a whole can of brake clean and still got some black on my rag. So the black is just metal dust? You make it look so easy. come build my 3v for me.
980rwhp on my 3v with stock torque to yield bolts. been driving fine for years. Weird it hasn't dropped the crank out the bottom yet.
Hell yea. These cross bolted mains are very durable. The only bummer is that I dropped a valve and have to rebuild again, and now have to buy new bolts, again. Had I done the ARP stuff I wouldn't be buying bolts. I will upgrade this time.
Well.... this is the 3rd time I have watched this video 🌞
Great Job !!!!!
Hey thanks!
@@BradfordsGarage I am installing my Paxton today.
Mike
Is there another video in this series?? I have an 07 5.4l3v that I have out of my truck and currently in the tear down phase of a planned rebuild (nothing wild cause it is a daily driving farm truck) and this series of videos has been absolutely phenomenal, would love to see you go through the math of many of the things you have done. Thanks!!
Yea, actually, I'm just finishing up the edit.
As far as math for things I've done- what are you wanting more detail on, specifically?
Yeah ....
Just give us any and everything......
Waiting for the 5.4 3v
Honest question... should you fit your rings with a torque plate installed? Extremely informative video and very precise work!
In my experience, it is not necessary. Definitely when honing cylinders because you want the cylinder to distort to 'running condition' under bolt clamping pressure, so when you bolt your heads on the cylinder returns to it's as-honed state and will be as round as possible.
But my thought on using it for ring filing is that whether the cylinder bore is round or slightly oval when fitting rings the circumference is the same and the gap should remain consistent as the cylinder changes shape. We're usually talking very slight differences in 'out-of-roundness' with/without a torque plate. If you were really worried about it or someone else has a compelling argument for using them, you could give it a try and see what the results are. Or file some rings without it, put the torque plate on and check the gap to see what difference it makes. Which is admittedly something I've never done. Maybe I will on the next one. Thanks for the comment. 🍻
@@BradfordsGarage your answer seems to be the general consensus. I appreciate the reply!
Yooo! I see you are from my parts of town ( White lake area ) I'd love to check this car out sometime. I've been kicking around the idea of 3V swapping my New edge and would love to see a in-depth view of what I would be in for.
NIce! She's under the knife again, but I'll have it back up and running real soon.
So how much do you get for a build like this with the amount of knowledge you possess
Where/who taught you your procedure? Excellent job, especially with the cleanliness of all parts.
Thank you! My dad, mostly. If you're looking for some good instruction on engine building I'd check out hpacademy.com. Excellent stuff.
Hi. The secret in the Coyote is the cyllinder heads. If you can replicate or get close to the flow numbers on the intake side from .200 to .600" you will be fine. The single large exhaust port will flow enough.
Yea! I did port the heads and running Comp 127500 cams. Didn't get them on a flow bench, so I have no idea what they flow. Haven't gotten a chance to dyno it again with the FRPP manifold on it, but it made 352whp (so...like 415 flywheel), about the same as a gen 1 coyote with the stock intake manifold. Should be around 375 now.
@@BradfordsGarage Sweet numbers!
Do you have a dyno sheet somewhere?
@@dennisrobinson8008 I don't. He kept saying he'd email it to me but never did. I figured since I had to go back to have him clean up the idle and dyno it again with the new intake I wouldn't keep bothering him, haha. I think I took a picture of the dyno screen and those are on my instagram somewhere- @bradfords_garage
Ok, thanks for the feedback. How is the rwtq on the 352rwhp dyno?
Would an REM polish help?
👍💪💯
Thanks, dude!
Where did you find the crankshaft main bolt kit? Checking online I've found they are discontinued
I bought these bolts from ModMax- www.modmaxracing.com/product-p/90625030.htm
The side bolts are not TTY, so you can reuse them, but I ended up buying new ones from the Ford dealer, anyway.
Good luck and thanks for checking out the video!
Where did you get the pick up tube from?
The oil pan, pump, windage tray/gasket combo and the pickup tube were all ordered from the Ford dealership for a ‘13 GT500.
These mahle flat top pistons I tried looking them up and all I've seen is that they fit 2v and 4v are they the same fitment for the 3v? Sorry for the stupid question
Hey, thanks for the comment and not a dumb question at all. There are pistons specifically for the 3V that have a fly cut relief for the exhaust valve. I assume that with some camshafts you may need those pistons. With the cams I used on a 102 crank centerline I had a ton of room when I checked PTV clearance. Glad to help in any way that I can, though, if you have more questions. Feel free to shoot me an email.
The part number for the pistons I used is 930256272.
@@BradfordsGarage Thank you for the really good info. If I could pester you some more The 3v 4.6 I have is in my 2010 f150 I'm wanting to port the heads based off your videos here, but I also want to run it on e85. I your experience and or your opinion do you believe its possible to push in excess of 350-400 crank hp or am I dreaming do you think?
@@2angetsU32 Hey Kent. Not unreasonable at all, especially on e85. This engine made 352 rwhp with the stock intake manifold, which by the 85% rule, that's like ~415 crank. It should make around 375 wheel with the FRPP intake and Accufab TB on it now. I just haven't been able to dyno it again. And it actually dropped a valve a couple weeks ago.
Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't have gone to so much trouble to port the heads and definitely wouldn't run oversized valves with stock (or even .020" over) bore size. The oversize valves are just too shrouded and theres not much to gain there.
I'm going to do another set of heads for the new engine and make another video covering what all I plan to do to these heads- which is give them a good valve job, keep the throat ratio around 89% and just clean/blend the 'bowl area' on the intake side- if you could even call it that. The intake ports are such a straight shot to the back to the valve there isn't much of a 'bowl'. On the exhaust side, I'd open up the bowl on the long turn side like I did on these and smooth the short turn side and the corners. Won't touch the floor, and I won't be enlarging the ports at all aside from what little bit occurs consequently of the blending/shaping.
Good luck on your build and don't be afraid to ask more questions if you have them.
@@BradfordsGarage That all actually sounds great, besides the dropping of the valve I'm sorry to hear that. I meant to ask though was your compression ratio altered when you put in the flat top pistons? I would assume it went up by a bit
@@2angetsU32 Oh, yea. The flat tops increase CR by a bit. Since the chamber was altered in my heads and I used aftermarket valves, I don't really know what the difference would be, but I believe the stock pistons are a 9cc dish.
Let's say you have a 100% perfectly balanced crank (by itself) and you have 100% accurately measured and equal weight pistons/rods/wrist-pin/c-clip/etc... then my theory is that you should not need the crank balanced again with the whole assembly. My reasoning is that the crank has 4 lobes, spaced at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, so if you're adding equal weight to each of those, the overall balanced shouldn't change. Am I right?
Not really. The crankshaft isn't balanced on it's own. It's balanced for the weight of the reciprocating assembly. The machine shop uses your reciprocating assembly to determine 'bob weight'. Weight is added or removed from your crankshaft counterbalance lobes to create a balanced complete assembly. My new reciprocating assembly (piston, pin, clips, rod, rings, bearings) was lighter than the OEM, so they drilled some weight out of my crankshaft lobes.
I have a bare block I want to build. Anyway you can help me?
Thats great. What are you looking for help with? I can answer questions and point you in the right direction but I"m not in the position to take on an engine build if that's what you're asking for.
🤠👍🍀🏁🇲🇽
Hi. Thanks for posting this info. and your race videos. I also have a 3v swapped New Edge, I'd love to trade war stories and share knowledge. My channel is my username, its kind of weak but I hope to get some driving vids now that my car is registered and street legal. Let me know if you're open to emails. Thanks!
Nice! Always nice to see the 3V getting some love. Feel free to shoot me an email Bradfords.garage1@gmail.com. Look forward to chatting ;).
Another amazing video! What's your Instagram so I can follow you? Very inspirational with all of your hard work yourself man!
Thank you again! I'm @bradfords_garage on insta. Really appreciate the kind words 🙏