Interesting router template technique. This is the first time I've seen that used for chamber work but obviously it is a consistent starting point for all the roughing out. As for the enlargement of the port diameter at the gasket surfaces, I have found it to be unproductive or counterproductive in most circumstances. The ridge from intake manifold to head and head to exhaust manifold typically act as a reversion dam. Eliminating these steps between the head and manifolds introduces more reversion. I used to match everything precisely, now I only open the intake on the head to the gasket and the exhaust manifold to the gasket. Obviously, if there are any clear casting problems or obstructions, I will remove those and blend them. Most ports are big enough already, often times too big, so gains from enlarging the diameter are rare. Overall you did a good job on your video and porting. Many of the DIY porting videos on youtube are great examples of what not to do, or how to lose all of your low end torque. Your video and porting seems to have a bit more research behind it than most. The critical areas of improvement is in the bowls, short-side and most importantly, the valve job. The valve job is one of the most overlooked areas of flow improvement, as David Vizard says start with your biggest restriction and start there.... the valve is your biggest restriction. Again, good work, good video, I hope you channel gets the boost it deserves.
Wow, thank you for the kind words and in depth comment and information. I don't know if I mentioned it in the video or not, but for the port openings I went by the dimensions that someone had shared that came from his CNC ported heads from a very reputable company. Actually, I went a little smaller. I did loads of research and decided I'd rather be a few hp shy of max effort port than to ruin the low end. Velocity>volume. Which, seems like I did okay as the engine put 350lbft./352hp to the wheels. No loss of torque it would seem. I think these engines usually make ~340 lb ft/~330ish hp with these cams and no work on the heads. But, I agree with everything you've said- valve job is super important and I also did my own 4 angle valve job in the next video. I concentrated most of my porting efforts in the bowls and just cleaning up the runners, removing casting flash and removing sharp obstructions. I did enlarge the intake runners a bit, but I CC'd them afterwards and they're not as large as the stated numbers for the Livernois/FRPP runner volumes; exhaust or intake. This was the first set of heads I ported and you're right, I did TONS of research. It's out there and it snowballs. Looked at examples of heads that perform very well and examining the details. A good friend and mod-motor fanatic mentioned that you want to treat these heads more like a Honda B head than a SBF/SBC head, which really shed some light on how to work on these particular heads. Every answer lead to another question and eventually I felt I had a good enough handle on it to start hogging. Thank you again for the kind words!
@@BradfordsGarage The CNC measurements might be for looks more than performance. All of the real magic happens within one inch before and after the valve. I port heads professionally and I can tell you that customers want to see their money in terms of port finish. They get really upset when they see any cast texture or seams from the mold cores. Rather than spend endless amounts of time trying to convince the customer that there is no need to touch certain areas, I have learned to remove the cast finish everywhere to avoid the fruitless discussion and potential negative customer feelings. Understanding in reality I have slightly diminished the function of the port, but it is more about meeting the expectations of the customer. They expect to see consistent silky-smooth satin polish on the entire port. I finish my own cylinder heads far different than the ones for my typical customer. Many of the heads I do are for street/strip setups and I try to get the best power for how the engine is being used. I don't mind going all out on the porting and the satin & mirror finish... I get top dollar and good eye-candy for the website. Those impressive looking port jobs are really only good for sustained high RPM racing where you are willing to lose some low-end power for high RPM gains. I watched your valve job video and it seems like you have a good diverse set of skills. I hope your channel grows and gets the views it should be getting. All good stuff!
@@davidparker9676 Thank you, David! The port dimensions I referenced are not just simple casting flaw cleanup. They're like 2-4mm larger than the rough cast. And not just fluted/gasket matched to the port entry/exit, but throughout. The runner volume on those heads is ~25% larger than 'as-cast'. I certainly acknowledged that those heads are ported with the intent of FI or big bore/stroker motors. Not for the displacement the head was originally intended for. I have read/heard of other head porter's who make the same claims- that their own heads don't look nearly as clean as customer heads and get the job done as well, if not better, than the nice polished heads they send out. It's very interesting! What is the name of your company? I'd be interested to check out your work, as well.
just subed, i know this is an old video but still just as important today.great work on the heads , i cant afford to replace my 2 valve with a coyote for the power i want in my 01 gt so a 3 valve is the next best thing. thanks & ill be watching!!!
@@BradfordsGarage Of course man. Your knowledge and self service is crazy. I wish I had the talent you possess. Those heads are perfect for what I want to do. I'm definitely studying it non stop.
Brother those heads look great. I have a 03' Crown Vic P71 I am working on 3v swapping. I found out the 2v ecu will run it as long as you lock out the cams phasers. The 3v responds to mods better then the 2v. You just have to beef up the valve train from what I've heard. Thank you for the content brother.
Thanks man! Yea, the ECU detail is exactly what closed the deal for me on this swap. Being a track car I couldn't go FI and the coyote was just way out of reach $$ wise. I considered doing a 408w or something. By chance I bought some parts from Dewayne Logan and he showed me his 3V swapped cars, shared some details and I was sold. He actually 3V swapped a 2v F150, also, haha. The latest Rev followers/lash adjusters and the 300# PAC valve springs are a great idea, especially if you plan to do any track stuff or cams. Thanks for checking out the videos, glad you found them useful! Good luck on your project and don't hesitate to reach out if you need anything.
Thanks! I didn't do any before/after comparisons, also don't have a flow bench. I can tell you that typical 3v's with these cams and headers and other bolt on's will make around 320hp to the wheels. So, my 11:1 compression and ported heads were worth about 25hp. From what the dyno buy tells me, that dyno is pretty conservative, also. We expect it to make around 375rwhp with the Ford Racing intake, just haven't gotten it back on the dyno. As far as a template, I hadn't planned on it, and you're the first person to ask. I don't see why not, though. Brad
@Bradfords_Garage I'm in the process of building my first 5.4 3v. I'd be interested in a template like that if you're willing to sell one. You could even make it as a digital file that someone could print and cut out to make their own. Thanks for your time.
Do you still have the cut up “bad” heads? I’d love to see cross sections with measurements (or even buy the cut up pieces from you). I’m doing a different project that involves removing some “extra” stuff (Cams, cam towers, lash adjusters, oil passages for lash adjusters, etc.). I’m swapping out the camshaft for pneumatic actuators and REALLY don’t want to break through a water jacket.
Just a couple questions sir, On the cam towers that were scored, couldn't they have been line bored for bearings? When you unshrouded the valves, doesn't that increase the combustion chamber, which decreases the combustion ratio? Thank you Sir, Enjoyed you video*** Thank You👍
The cam towers *can* be line bored/honed and bearing inserts installed. People who have done that in the past have run into issues with the bearings spinning. I couldn't even find a shop willing to do the work anymore. And it was more expensive than buying another set of heads. Yes, lowers CR and raises chamber volume. I went to flat top pistons and stainless valves, which both raise CR, so I wasn't worried about it. I still ended up at ~11:1. Thanks for the comments.
Out of all the videos on RUclips, I enjoy your the most, simply because of the detailed information you give. Do you do head work for customers? Would love to have your expertise on my heads. Your work is A+ Awesome 😊 TY
@@donaldspeck9212 Well, thank you! I don't do customer work, unfortunately. Hand porting is quite labor intensive and fine for someone like me who has the time and the tools to work on their own stuff, but if I were to pay for this type of thing I'd be looking at a shop like Livernois or ModularHeadShop for CNC porting. I think MHS actually just digitized a 3V head port. I have no first-hand experience with them, but I follow what they're doing and it looks to be top notch work.
I don't. Very time consuming and not as accurate as a CNC port. For my own stuff, this is good enough as I can take my time and already have the tools. For anyone looking to have this done, you could use this and other great videos on here as a guide and give it a try yourself...or find a reputable company who does CNC porting. Thanks for asking!
@@JBs_trucks_and_whitetail_bucks I actually just went through porting another set of heads and I checked it. With the stock valves after the chamber work I was at 52.1cc’s. OEM is 51cc’s. So only a very slight drop in compression. But I’m also running Ferrea stainless valves which brings it back to 51cc’s. And Mahle flat tops, so I’m at 10.94:1.
Mostly- the high helix 1/2" carbide egg-shaped burr from headgames. I had a couple sets of long and regular shank burrs that I bought inexpensively on amazon as well for some of the other work. Then finished with cartridge rolls.
Thanks a million, regarding the cut up head and the casting details showed for all to see.
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
This video told me everything I needed before deciding whether or not to try head porting for the first time on my 3v build, THANK YOU
That's great! Glad it helped you out.
Interesting router template technique. This is the first time I've seen that used for chamber work but obviously it is a consistent starting point for all the roughing out.
As for the enlargement of the port diameter at the gasket surfaces, I have found it to be unproductive or counterproductive in most circumstances. The ridge from intake manifold to head and head to exhaust manifold typically act as a reversion dam. Eliminating these steps between the head and manifolds introduces more reversion.
I used to match everything precisely, now I only open the intake on the head to the gasket and the exhaust manifold to the gasket. Obviously, if there are any clear casting problems or obstructions, I will remove those and blend them. Most ports are big enough already, often times too big, so gains from enlarging the diameter are rare.
Overall you did a good job on your video and porting. Many of the DIY porting videos on youtube are great examples of what not to do, or how to lose all of your low end torque. Your video and porting seems to have a bit more research behind it than most.
The critical areas of improvement is in the bowls, short-side and most importantly, the valve job. The valve job is one of the most overlooked areas of flow improvement, as David Vizard says start with your biggest restriction and start there.... the valve is your biggest restriction.
Again, good work, good video, I hope you channel gets the boost it deserves.
Wow, thank you for the kind words and in depth comment and information. I don't know if I mentioned it in the video or not, but for the port openings I went by the dimensions that someone had shared that came from his CNC ported heads from a very reputable company. Actually, I went a little smaller. I did loads of research and decided I'd rather be a few hp shy of max effort port than to ruin the low end. Velocity>volume. Which, seems like I did okay as the engine put 350lbft./352hp to the wheels. No loss of torque it would seem. I think these engines usually make ~340 lb ft/~330ish hp with these cams and no work on the heads.
But, I agree with everything you've said- valve job is super important and I also did my own 4 angle valve job in the next video. I concentrated most of my porting efforts in the bowls and just cleaning up the runners, removing casting flash and removing sharp obstructions. I did enlarge the intake runners a bit, but I CC'd them afterwards and they're not as large as the stated numbers for the Livernois/FRPP runner volumes; exhaust or intake.
This was the first set of heads I ported and you're right, I did TONS of research. It's out there and it snowballs. Looked at examples of heads that perform very well and examining the details. A good friend and mod-motor fanatic mentioned that you want to treat these heads more like a Honda B head than a SBF/SBC head, which really shed some light on how to work on these particular heads. Every answer lead to another question and eventually I felt I had a good enough handle on it to start hogging.
Thank you again for the kind words!
@@BradfordsGarage The CNC measurements might be for looks more than performance. All of the real magic happens within one inch before and after the valve.
I port heads professionally and I can tell you that customers want to see their money in terms of port finish. They get really upset when they see any cast texture or seams from the mold cores. Rather than spend endless amounts of time trying to convince the customer that there is no need to touch certain areas, I have learned to remove the cast finish everywhere to avoid the fruitless discussion and potential negative customer feelings.
Understanding in reality I have slightly diminished the function of the port, but it is more about meeting the expectations of the customer. They expect to see consistent silky-smooth satin polish on the entire port.
I finish my own cylinder heads far different than the ones for my typical customer.
Many of the heads I do are for street/strip setups and I try to get the best power for how the engine is being used. I don't mind going all out on the porting and the satin & mirror finish... I get top dollar and good eye-candy for the website. Those impressive looking port jobs are really only good for sustained high RPM racing where you are willing to lose some low-end power for high RPM gains.
I watched your valve job video and it seems like you have a good diverse set of skills. I hope your channel grows and gets the views it should be getting. All good stuff!
@@davidparker9676 Thank you, David! The port dimensions I referenced are not just simple casting flaw cleanup. They're like 2-4mm larger than the rough cast. And not just fluted/gasket matched to the port entry/exit, but throughout. The runner volume on those heads is ~25% larger than 'as-cast'. I certainly acknowledged that those heads are ported with the intent of FI or big bore/stroker motors. Not for the displacement the head was originally intended for.
I have read/heard of other head porter's who make the same claims- that their own heads don't look nearly as clean as customer heads and get the job done as well, if not better, than the nice polished heads they send out. It's very interesting!
What is the name of your company? I'd be interested to check out your work, as well.
just subed, i know this is an old video but still just as important today.great work on the heads , i cant afford to replace my 2 valve with a coyote for the power i want in my 01 gt so a 3 valve is the next best thing. thanks & ill be watching!!!
Glad you found it useful and enjoyable. I was in the same boat. For the budget, it's a worth-while swap.
I need a exact set of these for my 08! Amazing job man!
Ah, well thank you man!
@@BradfordsGarage Of course man. Your knowledge and self service is crazy. I wish I had the talent you possess. Those heads are perfect for what I want to do. I'm definitely studying it non stop.
Brother those heads look great. I have a 03' Crown Vic P71 I am working on 3v swapping. I found out the 2v ecu will run it as long as you lock out the cams phasers. The 3v responds to mods better then the 2v. You just have to beef up the valve train from what I've heard. Thank you for the content brother.
Thanks man! Yea, the ECU detail is exactly what closed the deal for me on this swap. Being a track car I couldn't go FI and the coyote was just way out of reach $$ wise. I considered doing a 408w or something. By chance I bought some parts from Dewayne Logan and he showed me his 3V swapped cars, shared some details and I was sold. He actually 3V swapped a 2v F150, also, haha.
The latest Rev followers/lash adjusters and the 300# PAC valve springs are a great idea, especially if you plan to do any track stuff or cams.
Thanks for checking out the videos, glad you found them useful! Good luck on your project and don't hesitate to reach out if you need anything.
Great music, makes me wanna go and rip my heads out right now..... But it's dark outside and I have no garage
Haha, thanks!
Keep up the awesome videos!
Thanks!
Great job. I’m just getting ready to do mine. What kind of results did you get? Did you dyno before/after? Do you sale those chamber templates?
Thanks! I didn't do any before/after comparisons, also don't have a flow bench. I can tell you that typical 3v's with these cams and headers and other bolt on's will make around 320hp to the wheels. So, my 11:1 compression and ported heads were worth about 25hp. From what the dyno buy tells me, that dyno is pretty conservative, also. We expect it to make around 375rwhp with the Ford Racing intake, just haven't gotten it back on the dyno.
As far as a template, I hadn't planned on it, and you're the first person to ask. I don't see why not, though.
Brad
@Bradfords_Garage I'm in the process of building my first 5.4 3v. I'd be interested in a template like that if you're willing to sell one. You could even make it as a digital file that someone could print and cut out to make their own. Thanks for your time.
Do you still have the cut up “bad” heads? I’d love to see cross sections with measurements (or even buy the cut up pieces from you). I’m doing a different project that involves removing some “extra” stuff (Cams, cam towers, lash adjusters, oil passages for lash adjusters, etc.). I’m swapping out the camshaft for pneumatic actuators and REALLY don’t want to break through a water jacket.
that sounds really awesome!!
When is the next video coming out. I'm interested in seeing how everything goes!
Thanks for the interest! I've been super swamped trying to get the car back on the road before snow falls. Next video should be pretty soon, though.
Just a couple questions sir,
On the cam towers that were scored, couldn't they have been line bored for bearings?
When you unshrouded the valves, doesn't that increase the combustion chamber, which decreases the combustion ratio?
Thank you Sir,
Enjoyed you video*** Thank You👍
The cam towers *can* be line bored/honed and bearing inserts installed. People who have done that in the past have run into issues with the bearings spinning. I couldn't even find a shop willing to do the work anymore. And it was more expensive than buying another set of heads.
Yes, lowers CR and raises chamber volume. I went to flat top pistons and stainless valves, which both raise CR, so I wasn't worried about it. I still ended up at ~11:1.
Thanks for the comments.
Out of all the videos on RUclips, I enjoy your the most, simply because of the detailed information you give.
Do you do head work for customers?
Would love to have your expertise on my heads.
Your work is A+
Awesome
😊 TY
@@donaldspeck9212 Well, thank you! I don't do customer work, unfortunately. Hand porting is quite labor intensive and fine for someone like me who has the time and the tools to work on their own stuff, but if I were to pay for this type of thing I'd be looking at a shop like Livernois or ModularHeadShop for CNC porting. I think MHS actually just digitized a 3V head port. I have no first-hand experience with them, but I follow what they're doing and it looks to be top notch work.
Do you port customer heads
I don't. Very time consuming and not as accurate as a CNC port. For my own stuff, this is good enough as I can take my time and already have the tools. For anyone looking to have this done, you could use this and other great videos on here as a guide and give it a try yourself...or find a reputable company who does CNC porting. Thanks for asking!
What tools and carbine set did you use ?
How much drop in compression do u think it got by removing material when un shrouding the valves
@@JBs_trucks_and_whitetail_bucks I actually just went through porting another set of heads and I checked it. With the stock valves after the chamber work I was at 52.1cc’s. OEM is 51cc’s. So only a very slight drop in compression. But I’m also running Ferrea stainless valves which brings it back to 51cc’s. And Mahle flat tops, so I’m at 10.94:1.
@@BradfordsGaragewhat is the clothe/scotch Bright looking bit you are using, I’m porting on my 5.4 3v heads right now
@@JBs_trucks_and_whitetail_bucks Just scotch brite wheels for dremel. I bought them on Amazon.
What is the name of the song in the first 2.56 min i like it.
What bits did you use?
Mostly- the high helix 1/2" carbide egg-shaped burr from headgames. I had a couple sets of long and regular shank burrs that I bought inexpensively on amazon as well for some of the other work. Then finished with cartridge rolls.
@@BradfordsGarage thanks!
Bad as video!!
Thanks! This is the second set of heads I've ever ported. One day I might offer it as a service, but not currently.
@@BradfordsGarage oh okay I watched the whole thing bro that was bad ass work felt like i was there helping you 🔥🔥🔥🔥
@@flightproracing5726 Thanks man! The next video covering the valve job and assembly is coming out really soon. Stay tuned!