Honestly.. Always use adjustable boxes when dealing with back splashes. You never know what the finish will be because people always change their mind at the last minute and you end up with a box that's way back inside the wall finish. Then you end up with funky box extenders just to be in compliance. The boxes cost more but are worth their weight in gold. They come in plastic and metal and also multi gang. Notching the wire is a great method for ID. I normally fold the switch leg or load conductor but your method is better. Thanks for sharing. 👍
yea brother im here. I have my EC too here. I was in michigan for the last 25 years, I was a EC there too. still hold my license there. im doing a remote gig here now but may go after some part time stuff here. just dont want to work full time.
Some great take-always. Been rehabbing and remodeling my own houses/apartments for 30 years. Never claim to be an electrician but know more than the plumber. Tacos and beers rule!
adjustaboxes also come in 2 gang and 3 gang. just for the record. and set boxes over cabinets with the top of the box at 48 inches above the floor. also, for advanced design, where do you put the small kitchen appliances? does you no good to have two circuits, if you're setting all your appliances on one cabinet. plan your circuit locations. get them where you need them. code allows you to put your refrigerator on those 2 kitchen circuits. don't do it. modern refrigerators don't play well with others. circuit breakers cost less than $10.00 even in our current problems. GFCI receptacles cost less than $20.00. not having to run to the garage and reset breakers every time you accidentally run two appliances at once is priceless.
Yep. I had to rewire my kitchen once we moved in and started using it and the circuit locations were not right for my needs. A toaster oven, which most people keep on the counter, will draw 12A no problem. If that's on the fridge circuit or on another circuit that you plugged a mixer in - pop. If it's your house, I highly recommend a circuit just for the fridge, and change it back to a regular breaker (no GFCI/AFCI) when the AHJ leaves. I'm a fan of GFCIs, but I'm not trusting a fridge/freezer full with $600 worth of food to a cheap GFCI/AFCI breaker/recep.
@@StarvingElectrician just adding to your good advice. I prefer to run my cabling jist above knee high, though. The base cabinets are normally screwed to the wall just below the top, so it still clears the wiring, and any bumps from nailplates will be below the countertop.
I am not a licensed electrician, but had one approve my wiring. I do have a background in high voltage high current installations. From what I saw, your wiring preparation is well done, but here in Quebec where I live, the electrical code allows one to calculate 5 amps per box, so that one can have three outlets on a 15amp circuit. (coffee maker, kettle, toaster, fry-pan microwave are not all used concurrently and any three together will not draw 15amps). That is the rule here. BUT the most important rule we must follow is that every counter receptacle MUST BE GFCI protected, and there a receptacle cannot be less than 2 feet laterally to a sink.. My kitchen has 2 gfci's for 4 outlets. (One outlet is on the island table where, at breakfast, we normally have a toaster plugged. Re wiring your A-OK. Dishwasher connection was below the sink and included in the GFCI requirement.
I believe in Ontario 🇨🇦, same electric code requirement as Quebec ⚜️, also any receptacle within 6’ of a sink/water source. Thanks for great videos, I knew enough electrical to be dangerous and you’re teaching me enough to be safe and alive. lol Also ‘sparkies’ is the local job-site nickname for electricians.
@@ruidadgmailcanada8508 Six feet from a sink or tap? The intention of distance to a pipe, or sink, is that either is generally a very solid electric ground. The code is to prevent you from putting an appliance on an external electrical ground, and then,. plugging in the appliance. You may already note your toaster, coffeemaker, electric kettle, and other kitchen appliances now come with short cables. All this is done to protect the ignorant.
@@StarvingElectrician I've seen people still burn one through. never underestimate the persistence of some of the trained apes the low bid outfits hire.
back the screws out, roll the box off the stud, put it back on where it needs moved to. but here's the real brain melter: imagine you didn't put those face screws in. now you need to raise or lower the box a half inch to line up with the tile pattern. you use the adjusting screw to remove the box, reach in with an angle driver, take the screws out. now you can cut the drywall above or below the bracket, to where you need the box to move to, and use a hammer and flat bar to slide the bracket along the stud to the new height.
Excellent, my good man. Thank you sir.
no sir thank you for watching and comment!!!
I like your style .
Right on, thank you
Love the video and thumbs up to the shirt!
right on! thank you
This was a great vid. Loved the giant Bud and taco at the end too.
I am an older retired guy on fixed income. Your videos have saved me a lot of money. Thanks for continuing to produce content.
Great to hear! thank you
Great tip on the boxes!
Honestly.. Always use adjustable boxes when dealing with back splashes. You never know what the finish will be because people always change their mind at the last minute and you end up with a box that's way back inside the wall finish. Then you end up with funky box extenders just to be in compliance. The boxes cost more but are worth their weight in gold. They come in plastic and metal and also multi gang. Notching the wire is a great method for ID. I normally fold the switch leg or load conductor but your method is better. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Robertos??? God I miss that place
I gotta quit that place!!...lol
Those dottie plates are a life saver! Good stuff brother. AkA El Guapo
You’re the BEST!!!
you know it!lol
I love those clip on/screw on JB's.
I'm curious, have you ever sampled Charlize' Taco?
lol, of course!!!!
@@StarvingElectrician
HA HA!
Hey boss, you said always run 2 circuits for the kitchen. I'd that to just share the load, or are they going back to independent breakers?
That is correct. two circuits but they can power other outlets. code just requires at least 2 circuits in a kitchen.
I was like is that wind or ominous music lol
lol sorry about that!
But are you using white wire with yellow?
Never. white is 15 amp and yellow is 20
Im an EC in Las Vegas, i just moved there about a year ago from east coast. You are still located there?
yea brother im here. I have my EC too here. I was in michigan for the last 25 years, I was a EC there too. still hold my license there. im doing a remote gig here now but may go after some part time stuff here. just dont want to work full time.
@@StarvingElectrician we will have to do something together soon
@@coreyfranco7060 for sure brother hit me up. just comment on a video. these replys get lost I dont get notifications for replys.
Boy not only are you overly Antonio Banderas handsome but goddamn smart as fuck!.
I know right? So few of us out there! Lol thanks
Another bad-ass video! I gotta get me some of those boxes man! Thanks Lenny! You’re “El Chingon” in my book!
I appreciate that!
Really different to how we do things in England! Top video and subscribed 👍
Awesome! Thank you!
Awesome video 📹 😎
Glad you enjoyed it
Can i see the impala
Are there any benefits to doing a whole house in 12g wire or or is it just a waste of money when you can use 14g then 12g to the breaker?
Some great take-always. Been rehabbing and remodeling my own houses/apartments for 30 years. Never claim to be an electrician but know more than the plumber.
Tacos and beers rule!
lol but who would you rather know? a plumber or a brain surgeon?
@@StarvingElectrician plumber and somebody that knows where to get a real burrito!!! Gotta do something with my used beer.
@@sgtfreyday ok I’m in!!! You had me at burrito
The tile guys def don't. 😤
YOU KNOW THATS RIGHT!!! lol
That LV Raiders hat looks off for some reason
lmao!!! it does doesnt it?..
Man I wish I knew about these boxes when I did my kitchen years ago! It was great until the tile guys left, just like you said!
exactly me too
Sound advice7
adjustaboxes also come in 2 gang and 3 gang. just for the record. and set boxes over cabinets with the top of the box at 48 inches above the floor. also, for advanced design, where do you put the small kitchen appliances? does you no good to have two circuits, if you're setting all your appliances on one cabinet. plan your circuit locations. get them where you need them. code allows you to put your refrigerator on those 2 kitchen circuits. don't do it. modern refrigerators don't play well with others. circuit breakers cost less than $10.00 even in our current problems. GFCI receptacles cost less than $20.00. not having to run to the garage and reset breakers every time you accidentally run two appliances at once is priceless.
Yep. I had to rewire my kitchen once we moved in and started using it and the circuit locations were not right for my needs. A toaster oven, which most people keep on the counter, will draw 12A no problem. If that's on the fridge circuit or on another circuit that you plugged a mixer in - pop. If it's your house, I highly recommend a circuit just for the fridge, and change it back to a regular breaker (no GFCI/AFCI) when the AHJ leaves. I'm a fan of GFCIs, but I'm not trusting a fridge/freezer full with $600 worth of food to a cheap GFCI/AFCI breaker/recep.
are you trying to teach me something? lol i know the costs etc. this is a quick and dirty of a break down for a box that comes in handy is all.
@bnasty267 my state makes an exception for fixed appliances on dedicated circuits.
@@StarvingElectrician just adding to your good advice. I prefer to run my cabling jist above knee high, though. The base cabinets are normally screwed to the wall just below the top, so it still clears the wiring, and any bumps from nailplates will be below the countertop.
Nice tips. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Glad it was helpful!
I am not a licensed electrician, but had one approve my wiring. I do have a background in high voltage high current installations.
From what I saw, your wiring preparation is well done, but here in Quebec where I live, the electrical code allows one to calculate 5 amps per box, so that one can have three outlets on a 15amp circuit. (coffee maker, kettle, toaster, fry-pan microwave are not all used concurrently and any three together will not draw 15amps). That is the rule here. BUT the most important rule we must follow is that every counter receptacle MUST BE GFCI protected, and there a receptacle cannot be less than 2 feet laterally to a sink.. My kitchen has 2 gfci's for 4 outlets. (One outlet is on the island table where, at breakfast, we normally have a toaster plugged. Re wiring your A-OK. Dishwasher connection was below the sink and included in the GFCI requirement.
ok I love hearing how other ares out of the country do things, thank you
I believe in Ontario 🇨🇦, same electric code requirement as Quebec ⚜️, also any receptacle within 6’ of a sink/water source.
Thanks for great videos, I knew enough electrical to be dangerous and you’re teaching me enough to be safe and alive. lol
Also ‘sparkies’ is the local job-site nickname for electricians.
@@ruidadgmailcanada8508
Six feet from a sink or tap?
The intention of distance to a pipe, or sink, is that either is generally a very solid electric ground. The code is to prevent you from putting an appliance on an external electrical ground, and then,. plugging in the appliance.
You may already note your toaster, coffeemaker, electric kettle, and other kitchen appliances now come with short cables. All this is done to protect the ignorant.
Man candy made me spit my drink
I know to see such a handsome sight can be over whelming!..lol
I do like the crimp idea. Toss my permanent marker
For sure! 0:26 0:26
How do the nail plates handle screws? I’d imagine a screw would go right through it?
They are 1/8” thick. No one will keep on trying to get through steel. They know they hit a nail plate and move up or down from it.
@@StarvingElectrician I've seen people still burn one through. never underestimate the persistence of some of the trained apes the low bid outfits hire.
Here in New México we don’t call them Dottie strips we call them idiot strips 😂😂
you dont even have any professional sports there dotti straps are the least of your worries... lol
@@StarvingElectrician what does that have to do with anything??😂🤷🏽
Try moving one of them boxes once the dope your working for decides last minute to change the layout
back the screws out, roll the box off the stud, put it back on where it needs moved to. but here's the real brain melter: imagine you didn't put those face screws in. now you need to raise or lower the box a half inch to line up with the tile pattern. you use the adjusting screw to remove the box, reach in with an angle driver, take the screws out. now you can cut the drywall above or below the bracket, to where you need the box to move to, and use a hammer and flat bar to slide the bracket along the stud to the new height.
oh well that dope is gonna have to pay my ass! lol
That has happened to me!
Luckily I showed up back to the jobsite before the sheetrock had been installed.
eye candy lol great tips brother.I crimp my line side in gfcis and switch legs in switches.I always enjoy your videos, keep em coming.
Thanks! Will do!
if you mark load side on GFCIs then you're marking load side on everything. just saying.
Good tips, especially the crimp and running the boxes proud. Best to Charlize!
Thanks for watching, I will tell he you said hello!!!..lol
What is up with your channel name? I thought experienced people in the trades were printing money these days???