Y'all should listen to this guy. He knows what he is talking about. He is obviously a well trained master electrician with years of experience. Parallel wiring in your outlet boxes is the only way to go. I don't use the back push in holes if at all possible, but that is my preference, plus I have troubleshooted these same problems in outlets and switch legs, many times a back pushed wire has come loose or came out. And stay home on St. Debauchery Day!
😎thanks for all the time, energy, and enthusiasm you bring to the trade. just know you have made a positive influence on at least one person who desperately needed help bridging the academic with the practical. much thanks and appreciation.
bonus tip: if the light's not working at all, if it's not the dead outlet's problem, it's usually the live outlet closest to it. since they are wired in & out, it seems like the "out" connection fails more often than the "in" connection.
@@StarvingElectrician true. I usually stick a plug tester in the outlet and wiggle it instead of thumping the wall. same result. you know when you get to the problem outlet. and yes, with stabs, 99% of the time when you take the bad outlet out of the wall, the wire comes out.
I just see you doing a panel on RUclips. Short and you have the neutrals. And grounds on the same bar. Here in Hillsboro county state of Florida, you have to separate the neutrals and grounds. I'm not sure where you're from and are those grounds? Twisted together
parrallel wiring neat idea... recentely had a branch circuit with two recipticles not working . It was like a game of clue to figure out but I borrowed a wire tracer and found recepticle with hot wire stabbed in that had came lose. Thanks for video
Just to be helpful, you dont wire receptacles in series. We call it daisy chaining. Series means that you wire common into the receptacle and neutral from same receptacle to common of next receptacle. The neutral loops back from the last device to the neutral bar in the panel. This circuit will only work if something is plugged into every receptacle. think of a string of Christmas lights. with the older ones, if one goes out, they all do. Each duplex receptacle would act as a light in the string of christmas lights if that makes sense. otherwise great video. (the series thing is a pet peeve of mine from an old co-worker. just sharing)
@@jimmymaracas6442 Many jacklegs will conduct exorcisms and not follow the current Code. Non-Code exorcism can get people killed. The Code is there for your safety.
LOL right on brother!!! im actually house hunting there for a place to visit family and air BNB when im not there. but in my price range its slim pickins! ill update on my progress for sure! thanks for checking in.
Honestly I wish the NFPA/NEC would require parallel wiring with pigtails and finally be done feeding through devices. It takes 2 minutes longer per opening, costs two wirenuts and a Buchanan sleeve more… and is so much safer and more reliable. Plus in new construction you can bring a circuit up with an outlet for the trades anywhere along the way pre-drywall. It’s just 100% better. I used to do the series thing too but stopped years ago.
I was also wondering about this. I was taught that it was always better to "pigtail" for this exact reason. But, does NEC 300.13(B) (2023 version) now require it? The wording is tripping me up a bit. Looks like the grounded conductors (neutral and ground) would have to be wired such that removing the receptacle does not interrupt continuity. To me, that would mean the receptacle (or at least the neutral and ground) would have to be pigtailed, so you can remove the receptacle while maintaining continuity. Am i wrong here? Thanks, and keep up the great work!
You will not need to fix lights flickering anymore, new safety switches that comply with the also new NFPA's national electrical code will make lights flicker on purpose. That way if you accidentaly touch a hot wire, you will have a 50% chance to not get electrocuted, and in the unlikely case that you touch it for long enough, you will only be half dead.
think of it like a garden hose with multiple nozzles. the lights are small nozzles, and the amp is a big nozzle. when the amp opens up wide, the pressure will drop in the small nozzles.
ARGGHH, spend a dollar more and get commercial grade receptacles that have plates and screws to secure upto 4 hots and 4 neutrals. Pig tails just add more wires inside a small box. I do like the trick of pounding on the wall to check for loose wiring. I have thrown away my plug in radio and Van Halen music. A cell phone and a helper works as well for confirming what breaker powers the receptacle in question.
He pig tailed so it would be wired in parallel. Your commercial receptacle you speak of wired as you said would still be in series. You would still need to pigtail to wire it in parallel too. Obviously,you did not understand the whole concept and why he did what he did.
I never back stab so I can’t comment on that. But if you use the screw terminals the side of an outlet it is electrically the same as using a pigtail because they attach to a bus bar on the side of the outlet. And yes then there is less junk in the box. Sure the screws can get loose but wire nuts can be improperly installed too and the wires can come out. You could probably also make the case that an amateur would be more likely to get a loop on screw right than jamming three wires into a wire nut.
I refuse personally to purchase anything less than the commercial grade receptacles. Just ain’t worth it to me. I agree with most of you on the back stabs only I have been of the opinion they should be illegal for use under our national code. ( my opinion). Commercial grade receptacles have as someone else has said here what I would refer to as the best of both worlds. 4 points of connection in the back but under a screw and pressure plate which will create the same scenario as a pigtail and wire nut and takes up less space in the box. One thing is certain though, you follow fire trucks straight to loose connections. Not one thing wrong with the pigtail method that’s my #2 option if I don’t have the pressure plate option
I have a question...everyone i ask says..get an electrican..i have 3 times...so daisy chained outlet to closet light to wall to bathroom double gang switch plate...i am reading correct in outlets...with plug in meter...yet no power when i plug in hot2hot.Neut 2 neut...when i plug in hot 2 hot neut 2 ground..bamm 120...i say reverse neut??? Plz 2 months into this
My outlets are getting to hot and melting and burning the plug sockets and the cords are hot or very warm to the touch, I use space heaters and this really scares me. Why is this happening
Your circuit may be overloaded (too large a breaker on too small wires), or you may have loose connections somewhere, or something else. Stop using the space heaters and call an electrician right away, before you have a fire.
Your space heaters are the problem. Space heaters have a high amperage rating. Higher the amperage, the more heat you will get. So most likely you are plugging them into a 15 amp circuit and the 14 awg wire is pretty small. That and the receptacle is what is heating up. Stop using multiple space heater asap and if you need to, just use one but for short intervals. Space heaters are one of the biggest causes for house fires.
It’s probably worse yet… your breaker or fuse should trip long before anything gets that hot. Breakers go bad. People disable fuses. Bottom line Jan call a reliable established electrician (not the local hack) to come and sort it out for you. You do not want a major electrical fire.
@@HBSuccess okay I am my own electrician the local electricians around here won't even show up or touch this nightmare. House was built in 1909, I have replaced most of the wiring with 12/2 yellow casing. There is old black wire and white 14 or 12 2. But I have most switched now. My furnace floods 3x a year from our new rain mans mismanagement and loss of direction and brain cells. My ducks love the moat around my house and mud puddles being a Navy veteran funds are tighter than government help so no furnace. I think only lightning is the only miracle I can hope for
I also do all my own repairs and trying to redo rotten floor in washing machine room and washing machine is on back deck since I am replacing the plumbing while the floor is torn apart thank you for replying
"stabing" outlets with plastic boxes.... unconscionable. The reason on don't use "wago-like" connectors is the same. I don't trust the mid to long term. I screw that's it that's all.
Don't listen to this guy. Electricity is very dangerous. ALWAYS hire and electrician. A lot of my calls are homeowner DIYs, and it ends up costing more than if you would've just called one in the first place.
Y'all should listen to this guy.
He knows what he is talking about.
He is obviously a well trained master electrician with years of experience.
Parallel wiring in your outlet boxes is the only way to go.
I don't use the back push in holes if at all possible, but that is my preference, plus I have troubleshooted these same problems in outlets and switch legs, many times a back pushed wire has come loose or came out.
And stay home on St. Debauchery Day!
right on!!!! thanks for the positive words.
@@StarvingElectrician
You're welcome!
My absolute fav electrician!!!! Great Vids!!!!!
thank you. its the simple things.
😎thanks for all the time, energy, and enthusiasm you bring to the trade. just know you have made a positive influence on at least one person who desperately needed help bridging the academic with the practical. much thanks and appreciation.
I appreciate that! you have no idea what these kind comments mean
nice tip of the radio, I’ll definitely try that one!
bonus tip: if the light's not working at all, if it's not the dead outlet's problem, it's usually the live outlet closest to it. since they are wired in & out, it seems like the "out" connection fails more often than the "in" connection.
Simple Trick Shows You one way to skin a cat, theres lots of ways to do this.
@@StarvingElectrician true. I usually stick a plug tester in the outlet and wiggle it instead of thumping the wall. same result. you know when you get to the problem outlet. and yes, with stabs, 99% of the time when you take the bad outlet out of the wall, the wire comes out.
Great tips. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you. I hope you learned something.
Glad I found your channel brother.
Love this!!! Thanks!!!
I just see you doing a panel on RUclips. Short and you have the neutrals. And grounds on the same bar. Here in Hillsboro county state of Florida, you have to separate the neutrals and grounds. I'm not sure where you're from and are those grounds? Twisted together
parrallel wiring neat idea... recentely had a branch circuit with two recipticles not working . It was like a game of clue to figure out but I borrowed a wire tracer and found recepticle with hot wire stabbed in that had came lose. Thanks for video
I know another trick but I will respect you I learn from this vidio.
I have a 15amp 230 volt compressor I upgraded to. Can I use an existing outlet or do I need to wire a new one? If is, what should I being using?
Good work
Thank you so much 😀
Thank you for that learned a lot
Just to be helpful, you dont wire receptacles in series. We call it daisy chaining. Series means that you wire common into the receptacle and neutral from same receptacle to common of next receptacle. The neutral loops back from the last device to the neutral bar in the panel. This circuit will only work if something is plugged into every receptacle. think of a string of Christmas lights. with the older ones, if one goes out, they all do. Each duplex receptacle would act as a light in the string of christmas lights if that makes sense. otherwise great video. (the series thing is a pet peeve of mine from an old co-worker. just sharing)
EL JEFE!!! Horale i like that carnal!!
orele carnal
What if it's none of these and the lights are flickering because of ghosts?
NEC 711.23 covers exorcisms in the case of flickering lights
lmfao!!!! then looks like we gotta go wifey pooh!!!
lol I believe you are right.
@@jimmymaracas6442 Many jacklegs will conduct exorcisms and not follow the current Code. Non-Code exorcism can get people killed. The Code is there for your safety.
Call a minister.
The D wants its favorite bad ass Electrican back.
LOL right on brother!!! im actually house hunting there for a place to visit family and air BNB when im not there. but in my price range its slim pickins! ill update on my progress for sure! thanks for checking in.
Honestly I wish the NFPA/NEC would require parallel wiring with pigtails and finally be done feeding through devices. It takes 2 minutes longer per opening, costs two wirenuts and a Buchanan sleeve more… and is so much safer and more reliable. Plus in new construction you can bring a circuit up with an outlet for the trades anywhere along the way pre-drywall. It’s just 100% better. I used to do the series thing too but stopped years ago.
100% right my brother
I was also wondering about this. I was taught that it was always better to "pigtail" for this exact reason. But, does NEC 300.13(B) (2023 version) now require it? The wording is tripping me up a bit. Looks like the grounded conductors (neutral and ground) would have to be wired such that removing the receptacle does not interrupt continuity. To me, that would mean the receptacle (or at least the neutral and ground) would have to be pigtailed, so you can remove the receptacle while maintaining continuity. Am i wrong here? Thanks, and keep up the great work!
You will not need to fix lights flickering anymore, new safety switches that comply with the also new NFPA's national electrical code will make lights flicker on purpose. That way if you accidentaly touch a hot wire, you will have a 50% chance to not get electrocuted, and in the unlikely case that you touch it for long enough, you will only be half dead.
Seems like pretty good info, but the jokes are just so bad. I kid... this guy cracks me up.
lol....thanks for watching. I do te best with what I got.
I really enjoy the explanations. But I enjoy more the comments. Enlightening. lol.
I have a very powerful home stereo amplifier and when the music has a lot of bass the lights will dim. Can this be fixed? Is it dangerous?
its just drawing a lot. you can use 80 % of the circuit and you are good. when it trips we have a problem. maybe add a 20 amp circuit.
@@StarvingElectrician thank you for your reply.
think of it like a garden hose with multiple nozzles. the lights are small nozzles, and the amp is a big nozzle. when the amp opens up wide, the pressure will drop in the small nozzles.
Van Halen good point
ARGGHH, spend a dollar more and get commercial grade receptacles that have plates and screws to secure upto 4 hots and 4 neutrals. Pig tails just add more wires inside a small box.
I do like the trick of pounding on the wall to check for loose wiring.
I have thrown away my plug in radio and Van Halen music. A cell phone and a helper works as well for confirming what breaker powers the receptacle in question.
if you got a helper who needs a radio 30 years in the trade this is just one fucking example.
He pig tailed so it would be wired in parallel. Your commercial receptacle you speak of wired as you said would still be in series. You would still need to pigtail to wire it in parallel too. Obviously,you did not understand the whole concept and why he did what he did.
Drop light and me at the breaker panel, plugged into an extension cord from the receptacle.
I never back stab so I can’t comment on that. But if you use the screw terminals the side of an outlet it is electrically the same as using a pigtail because they attach to a bus bar on the side of the outlet. And yes then there is less junk in the box. Sure the screws can get loose but wire nuts can be improperly installed too and the wires can come out. You could probably also make the case that an amateur would be more likely to get a loop on screw right than jamming three wires into a wire nut.
I refuse personally to purchase anything less than the commercial grade receptacles. Just ain’t worth it to me. I agree with most of you on the back stabs only I have been of the opinion they should be illegal for use under our national code. ( my opinion).
Commercial grade receptacles have as someone else has said here what I would refer to as the best of both worlds. 4 points of connection in the back but under a screw and pressure plate which will create the same scenario as a pigtail and wire nut and takes up less space in the box.
One thing is certain though, you follow fire trucks straight to loose connections.
Not one thing wrong with the pigtail method that’s my #2 option if I don’t have the pressure plate option
I have a question...everyone i ask says..get an electrican..i have 3 times...so daisy chained outlet to closet light to wall to bathroom double gang switch plate...i am reading correct in outlets...with plug in meter...yet no power when i plug in hot2hot.Neut 2 neut...when i plug in hot 2 hot neut 2 ground..bamm 120...i say reverse neut??? Plz 2 months into this
DIY’s lead to service calls, don’t even try it.
well we try
What’s the radio? Lol
lol who has a fucking radio?!!! I thought about that after.
My outlets are getting to hot and melting and burning the plug sockets and the cords are hot or very warm to the touch, I use space heaters and this really scares me. Why is this happening
Your circuit may be overloaded (too large a breaker on too small wires), or you may have loose connections somewhere, or something else. Stop using the space heaters and call an electrician right away, before you have a fire.
Your space heaters are the problem. Space heaters have a high amperage rating. Higher the amperage, the more heat you will get. So most likely you are plugging them into a 15 amp circuit and the 14 awg wire is pretty small. That and the receptacle is what is heating up. Stop using multiple space heater asap and if you need to, just use one but for short intervals. Space heaters are one of the biggest causes for house fires.
It’s probably worse yet… your breaker or fuse should trip long before anything gets that hot. Breakers go bad. People disable fuses. Bottom line Jan call a reliable established electrician (not the local hack) to come and sort it out for you. You do not want a major electrical fire.
@@HBSuccess okay I am my own electrician the local electricians around here won't even show up or touch this nightmare. House was built in 1909, I have replaced most of the wiring with 12/2 yellow casing. There is old black wire and white 14 or 12 2. But I have most switched now. My furnace floods 3x a year from our new rain mans mismanagement and loss of direction and brain cells. My ducks love the moat around my house and mud puddles being a Navy veteran funds are tighter than government help so no furnace. I think only lightning is the only miracle I can hope for
I also do all my own repairs and trying to redo rotten floor in washing machine room and washing machine is on back deck since I am replacing the plumbing while the floor is torn apart thank you for replying
"stabing" outlets with plastic boxes.... unconscionable. The reason on don't use "wago-like" connectors is the same. I don't trust the mid to long term. I screw that's it that's all.
Sorry, the 10 (or less) outlets are wired in parallel.
dont know what that means but this is just one trick that may help people. thats all
Don't listen to this guy. Electricity is very dangerous. ALWAYS hire and electrician. A lot of my calls are homeowner DIYs, and it ends up costing more than if you would've just called one in the first place.