haha right? it still suprises me every time, lately iv been modeling in the threads for 1/4-20 and M6+ sized bolts and they torque to iso spec with no issue
2:00 Even better because normal cameras add perspective to parts, put the part in a flatbed scanner with a ruler and you'll get an orthographgic image to scale.
Totally agree. the flat bed scanner is technically better,, but for small parts like this the telephoto lens on most smart phones are only introducing 100-200 microns of error. I really wanted to show a MVP process that didn't require any extra tools. Theres a shocking amount our people that don't have a flat bed scanner at home (me including), TLDR: The phone camera is more accessible and good enough.
A flat part can just be scanned with a regular paper scanner. It's quicker and gives a precise result without tinkering since it outputs at a known size of A4 sheet of paper.
With flat bed scanning, you still need a calibration reference. also with his part, the stiffening ribs would keep the bolt holes about 8mm up in the air, that would have messed with the scan a tone
The first iteration of a part is always about getting it to work as intended. Following iterations can bring improvements that are thought of along the way, or are secondary to getting the part to work as intended.
Great design that is manufacturable. I agree everything could be better if you make one off, but if you want hundrends, it is different story and you nailed it! The only thing I would change would be threaded inserts if filter should be replaced at some point.
I love and hate threaded inserts. They add a lot of work to post-processing, and properly clearance self-tapers can get you 5-10 assemblies with sufficient torque.
If you want more flow just ditch the foam element and put pleated cotton in, you can get filters that size for loads of small garden engines - that way your filter face area will be double just from the pleats.
@@PantheonDesign No worse than oiled foam is, if you're going to the effort to make an 'ultimate' one that's the easiest change vs chasing a few more mm around the edges.
@@PantheonDesign Generally in terms of dirt filtration it goes - Paper, Cotton, Foam, in that order. Clean foam is occassionally on par with cotton but it tends to lose it's oil much more quickly.
Ohh the design of the original part had great DFM, I was commenting on the delamination of perimeters and over extrusions, also the lack of sealing was sketchy
This will be nightmare to maintain. Bathtub with pilon in the middle and few mm thick cover with m6 screw holding it together would work better. Instead of gasket keep edges bellow filter flat and use air filter rim grease.
hows this hard to maintain? just unscrew and clean the foam every 5-6K, there's also very little space to fit a bathtub filter. right now there's only about 10mm of clearance above the air box to the seat.
I'm always surprised to see printed threads, but watching the screw snap gave me some new confidence 🤣
haha right? it still suprises me every time, lately iv been modeling in the threads for 1/4-20 and M6+ sized bolts and they torque to iso spec with no issue
The retrospective at the end was awesome. Really professional. I'd love to see an improved part.
2:00 Even better because normal cameras add perspective to parts, put the part in a flatbed scanner with a ruler and you'll get an orthographgic image to scale.
Totally agree. the flat bed scanner is technically better,, but for small parts like this the telephoto lens on most smart phones are only introducing 100-200 microns of error. I really wanted to show a MVP process that didn't require any extra tools. Theres a shocking amount our people that don't have a flat bed scanner at home (me including), TLDR: The phone camera is more accessible and good enough.
A flat part can just be scanned with a regular paper scanner. It's quicker and gives a precise result without tinkering since it outputs at a known size of A4 sheet of paper.
Yet to do this but I've heard this before. First thought that came to mind with an item this size.
With flat bed scanning, you still need a calibration reference. also with his part, the stiffening ribs would keep the bolt holes about 8mm up in the air, that would have messed with the scan a tone
The first iteration of a part is always about getting it to work as intended. Following iterations can bring improvements that are thought of along the way, or are secondary to getting the part to work as intended.
Comprehensive. Well paced and produced.
The bottle (rather than spray) filter oil is easy to massage into foam with some gloves on and waaay cheaper ;-)
shit, good point
Great design that is manufacturable. I agree everything could be better if you make one off, but if you want hundrends, it is different story and you nailed it! The only thing I would change would be threaded inserts if filter should be replaced at some point.
I love and hate threaded inserts. They add a lot of work to post-processing, and properly clearance self-tapers can get you 5-10 assemblies with sufficient torque.
If you want more flow just ditch the foam element and put pleated cotton in, you can get filters that size for loads of small garden engines - that way your filter face area will be double just from the pleats.
pleated cotton is not a great fitler, and at the end of the day, even more air isn't something the stock ECU can handle
@@PantheonDesign No worse than oiled foam is, if you're going to the effort to make an 'ultimate' one that's the easiest change vs chasing a few more mm around the edges.
@ ahh really? Okay looks like I should do some more research, I always thought the cotton filters were trash for some reason
@@PantheonDesign Generally in terms of dirt filtration it goes - Paper, Cotton, Foam, in that order.
Clean foam is occassionally on par with cotton but it tends to lose it's oil much more quickly.
11:26 well, I think it’s safe to call CF nylon an “engineering grade” material 😂😂
Cool function print! What material did you use to print?
We used our CF-Nylon: shop.pantheondesign.com/products/carbon-fiber-nylon
Nice!
Isn't the oring unnecessary if you have a hole in your part?
The O-ring ensures that the only way air can get in is through the filter - definitely wouldn't want unfiltered air getting in
I wouldn't go as far as to say "the worst 3d print ever seen" .....thats pretty sensational. The original printed part was really not that bad at all.
Ohh the design of the original part had great DFM, I was commenting on the delamination of perimeters and over extrusions, also the lack of sealing was sketchy
buy nicer screws please, that is not good quality metal, has lots of contaminants, probably phosphorus because it broke so easily at room temp
This will be nightmare to maintain. Bathtub with pilon in the middle and few mm thick cover with m6 screw holding it together would work better. Instead of gasket keep edges bellow filter flat and use air filter rim grease.
hows this hard to maintain? just unscrew and clean the foam every 5-6K, there's also very little space to fit a bathtub filter. right now there's only about 10mm of clearance above the air box to the seat.