Front wheel stand and the ABS sensor. I fabed up a small stub, smaller than the last digit of your little finger, that goes into the bottom of the fork. Works great and I don't have to worry about the sensor any more.
That's a good idea. There are enough ABS bikes now that both Pit Bull and Woodcraft have addressed this issue and made stands that accommodate the speed sensor up front. Definitely do not want to damage these things, you lose all the electronics if the sensor goes down. - Van
Van, Your videos are great and very detail but I missed in this video forks alignment... For example Dave Moss says it is absolutely critical to align the forks on the center axle before tightening pinch bolts...
I would start by double checking the rear caliper hanger installation. You need to make sure it is lined up with the boss on the swingarm. I would also compare the height of the spacers you installed with that of the OEM ones to make sure that and the other dimensions are correct. - Van
Sup guys, just installed these on my ‘21 and have the same issue. Spins okayish but soon as I torque the axle nut to spec, it drags. Haven’t pumped the rear brake to bind on the rotor yet
+Mudux I read something from Yamaha that stated that it's there to conduct heat from the brake disc so that the heat of hard braking does not transfer to the magnesium rim. Brakes can get very hot on the track, even the rear.
We have these listed on the site offering the domed puck as an option. Here is a link to them on our site: www.sportbiketrackgear.com/woodcraft-yamaha-fz-10-2017-frame-sliders/ - Van
Matt Wilcox I do not feel it is needed. Before I started STG I was a tech at a Cadillac dealer for many years and acquired a feel for proper torque. That said there are situations where I will absolutely use the torque wrench, these would typically be internal engine work. - Van
Matt Wilcox My rule of thumb is that if it experiences extreme heat, torque it to spec. Expansion and contraction is a hell of a thing. If you over torque something, and then heat expands it, you will not be happy, it could crack cases, and snap bolts. Also, when it expands and contracts over and over, it gets loose too. A lot of torque specs are not there to prevent rattling loose, its to prevent heat related stress fractures. I've learned this the hard way. I tend to always torque to spec now. It's there for a reason.
Thanks for the question! It isn't intended to lower the resistance it is specifically to make changing the wheels/tire easier. When you are doing a lot of tire changes, at the race track for example, it can be easy to lose the OEM spacers and these prevent that from happening.
I love the idea of a captured spacer. I see almost everyone drop them on the ground, pick them up and reinstall them. This is frequent at the track with all the tire changes. My mechanic background makes me cringe while visualizing grains of sand grinding at their bearings. A no brainer, why didn't the big 4 bike manufacturers start this many years ago?
3rdeyegifted These spacers will stay with the wheel and not fall out when making tire changes. Most every race team will use these as it makes reinstalling the wheel much faster as well. - Van
You mean like the Sport Rider project bike, which turned out 177? These aren't 200 HP bikes without incredible mods, or an extremely generous dyno. Great bikes, but not 200 WHP.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
that rear wheel torque needs to be 137 ft/lb the front one is 83 ft/lb per the service manual if anyone cares.
The red and blue reminds me of Russell fittings I used doing -AN fittings and braided lines on my fuel system in the Trans Am. :)
These serve a purpose and look great on the bike. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgearFacebook 😢
Front wheel stand and the ABS sensor. I fabed up a small stub, smaller than the last digit of your little finger, that goes into the bottom of the fork. Works great and I don't have to worry about the sensor any more.
That's a good idea. There are enough ABS bikes now that both Pit Bull and Woodcraft have addressed this issue and made stands that accommodate the speed sensor up front. Definitely do not want to damage these things, you lose all the electronics if the sensor goes down. - Van
Van,
Your videos are great and very detail but I missed in this video forks alignment... For example Dave Moss says it is absolutely critical to align the forks on the center axle before tightening pinch bolts...
diggin' the corona light in the mini fridge!
If you feel more comfortable with using the torque wrench that's the right call for sure. - Van
Hello, where can I find that kind of work stand? Even with the support plate for rubber? Thanks
After cleaning of the old grease, Should you apply a thin layer to help keep from rolling the lip on the seal?
You can if you want to or if the seal looks dry. - Van
Nice vid...aren’t you the same dude who said don’t buy certain cheap mzs Levers? Lol I feel you bro...you had us cracking up on this coast..
Those levers are absolute shit. - Van
Super late commenting on this vid, but is there not a need for high temp grease on the axle??? All these how-tos are fantastic, btw! Keep em coming!
I have been spraying Maxima MPPL (WD40) on a rag and wiping the axle down before reinstalling it. - Van
hey..I just installed similar ones..however, my rear wheel drags now on right captive spacer...just does not want to turn good...any tip?
I would start by double checking the rear caliper hanger installation. You need to make sure it is lined up with the boss on the swingarm. I would also compare the height of the spacers you installed with that of the OEM ones to make sure that and the other dimensions are correct. - Van
Sup guys, just installed these on my ‘21 and have the same issue. Spins okayish but soon as I torque the axle nut to spec, it drags. Haven’t pumped the rear brake to bind on the rotor yet
Good video. What are the black lines that are zip-tied to the brake lines?
Thank you for watching, the black lines zip tied to the brake lines are the wheel speed sensor wiring harnesses. - Van
When I grow up I want to be Sportsbike Track Gear.
Love that!
Why remove the front calipers? Shouldn’t the wheel just roll out?
Negative, on the R1 and most sportbikes with 2 front calipers the front wheel will not roll out with the calipers in place. - Van
Dark blue would be nice
Sorry all of the Driven Captive Spacers are red. - Van
whats the name of that blue cap in the axle ????
That is a Driven Racing Endurance Cup!
What are the advantages of having a wheel spacer for the bike? I understand in cars but in bikes im not sure.
For a track bike with constant wheel and tire changes it is nice to have the spacers held in place. - Brian Van
@@sportbiketrackgear so basically the spacers in there from factory are maybe heavier and just fall out? These are tighter and stay in place?
Did you change the rear axel nut washer?
what's that dented wheel just below the rear disc brake at 3:56?
Mudux Sorry I am not picking up what you are laying down. - Van
Sportbike Track Gear You can see better at 2:52. It's a disc almost touching the brake disc. And thanks for the fast response.
Mudux the one that looks like a wave brake rotor is for the traction control. the other one is for the abs and speedo.
+Mudux I read something from Yamaha that stated that it's there to conduct heat from the brake disc so that the heat of hard braking does not transfer to the magnesium rim. Brakes can get very hot on the track, even the rear.
pR1mal I see. Thanks for the answer.
I hear alot of talk about axle grease. Some say you don't need it, others say you do for the bearings. Any takers on this?
Any type of lube will do really. Just need a thin film. - Van
it never hurts to smudge of axle grease , but def dont need to overkill it BUT NO LUBE MEANS BURNING UP THE AXLE
will that domed puck fit on a yamaha mt-10 ? (which is the R1 engine and frame)
We have these listed on the site offering the domed puck as an option. Here is a link to them on our site: www.sportbiketrackgear.com/woodcraft-yamaha-fz-10-2017-frame-sliders/ - Van
Compa me gustan mucho tus videos de lo mejor la neta habrá formas de envio ah México? Vendes accesorios y refacciones? Puedes pasar link
No hablo
Hey Van, is there any specific reason you seem so against torque wrenches? Do not trust them or think its not necessary?
Matt Wilcox i was wondering the same i just assumed he has been doing this long enough to know by feel.
Matt Wilcox I do not feel it is needed. Before I started STG I was a tech at a Cadillac dealer for many years and acquired a feel for proper torque. That said there are situations where I will absolutely use the torque wrench, these would typically be internal engine work. - Van
See I was right :D
Matt Wilcox My rule of thumb is that if it experiences extreme heat, torque it to spec. Expansion and contraction is a hell of a thing. If you over torque something, and then heat expands it, you will not be happy, it could crack cases, and snap bolts. Also, when it expands and contracts over and over, it gets loose too. A lot of torque specs are not there to prevent rattling loose, its to prevent heat related stress fractures. I've learned this the hard way. I tend to always torque to spec now. It's there for a reason.
Good video 👌
Thank you for watching! - Van
What difference does it make to replace those?
They make tire swaps a little easier. - Van
Got it. Thanks 🙏🏼
What are the advantages of the endurance cup or is it just bling? whatever it is it looks bitchin.
how does this improve anything? its not lowering rolling resistance
Thanks for the question! It isn't intended to lower the resistance it is specifically to make changing the wheels/tire easier. When you are doing a lot of tire changes, at the race track for example, it can be easy to lose the OEM spacers and these prevent that from happening.
nice job
I love the idea of a captured spacer. I see almost everyone drop them on the ground, pick them up and reinstall them. This is frequent at the track with all the tire changes. My mechanic background makes me cringe while visualizing grains of sand grinding at their bearings. A no brainer, why didn't the big 4 bike manufacturers start this many years ago?
Brian, does it work as well once you installed the chain adjusters?
Yes they worked well with the Lightech Chain Adjusters, no conflicts during tire changes. - Van
What's the purpose of these?
3rdeyegifted These spacers will stay with the wheel and not fall out when making tire changes. Most every race team will use these as it makes reinstalling the wheel much faster as well. - Van
One less things to mess with when changing your tires.
Boom, done
Maybe I'm just paranoid, but with the R1's nearly 190hp at the rear tire I torque my rear axle nut everytime. =)
pR1mal Sure, if by "nearly 190”, you meant a smidge over 160.
Vaperators exhaust and flashed ecu will give you in the area of 190, with racing fuel 200 is attainable.
You mean like the Sport Rider project bike, which turned out 177? These aren't 200 HP bikes without incredible mods, or an extremely generous dyno. Great bikes, but not 200 WHP.
😂
What's a torque wrench? Lol
never seen one myself, bet Big Foot has one in his tool box! - Van
Thanks for the tip about the front brake calipers!@manny._.fresh