Awesome video thanks! So I just replaced my stock shocks with Yokomo Big bores. As far as the preload for running on ptile I have mine set so that when the car is resting the shocks travel up a little and still have some lift as well. How do you normally set your preload and does your shocks travel up a little when the car is at rest?
Ya I forsure have some up travel from the spring compression. It helps to keep it from bottoming out and creating weird vibrations. It’s a balance of ride height, spring compression and shock oil but it’s pretty simple and is something that you can play with and mix up over time. If your shocks feel bouncy that’s totally normal too. It helps reduce vibration alot so if you see super light weight oils being used it’s normal haha
Hey guys, my MST MRX Pro groundplate is scratching on the Ground. The Suspension is at the highest setting, but it looks like the stock shocks r to short. What whould you do?
Question, I started with crawlers, that being said shocks are required to be precise, on a budget, with the plastic shocks on the rhino, would it be possible to replace the o rings, possibly polish the stock shock shafts to allow for smoother ride? It seemed like it helped considerably more after I rebuilt the stock shocks on my crawler until I could afford I the hot racing piggy backs. Thank you
You can definitely go a long way with cheap shocks on the drift side of things. The front end essentially just floats and bounces so there doesn't really need to be a lot of precision there. Thats why you'll see some cars almost chassis slap in the front. The springs you try are a good tuning tool before buying super pricey shocks. Those can be later used with better shocks if you upgrade. Playing with the front end settings as far as camber and toe are going to give the most help when tuning to be honest. I wouldn't even bother polishing or upgrading orings. With the plastic shocks i dont think it would be worth the time to polish and upgrade orings just because the tolerance is already opened up enough to allow that smooth pass. But.. You 100% could still do all that to get better performance, my only gripe is youll probably end up spending $20-$40 on orings and the other goodies you need. Still a bit pricey and probably wouldn't make much more of a difference. Hope this helps!
@@SeanLewisMedia dude I am so grateful for your help, I just ordered a Sakura D5 kit today, first rwd drift card I've owned. I bought and built the rmx2. 0 a few years ago and it was a gift for my brother you I hadn't seen in 15 years. It was a kinda sorry I missed all them bdays. I never got and it disappeared as well as him. So now I am starting all over. Watching tons a videos and saving them to watchlist specific for RC drifting/timing I love RCs. So grateful for you and the helpful information
Love these vids man, I also got the overdose duals, I noticed the O rings were creating tension, as if I had super thick oil, I had none in lol, I sat them in the damper oil for a while and it sorted that out 😅
Glad you enjoyed! And yes those orings can cause some issues but I’m glad you got it sorted! That’s crazy they were empty lol. I had some left over blue orings that I put some green slime on to hopefully preserve haha. The OD Springs are dialed👌🏼
@@JAM-vu3ol I tried to get another set on Tuesday and they were still out. I asked but they didn’t know when unfortunately. I still need a set so I’ll keep looking and try to update you
Lol found this cuz I’m wanting a shark chassis now. But you was talking about the shock on the cheaper being bouncy lol well my sd 2.0 does this with the big bores. But I like it lol thing drives so good the way I have it right now. That’s for all the info and when I do get my shark you have me hooked on the purple 😂
I built them really well too with team associated special shock freeze too. I was surprised how bouncy they were. You could use heavier oil or springs but the potential slop in the plastic parts makes them less than ideal.
I love the slow mo edits🤣
so clean🧼 both rc cars look really good👍
Thanks so much! Thank you for filming and helping me out:)
Awesome video thanks! So I just replaced my stock shocks with Yokomo Big bores. As far as the preload for running on ptile I have mine set so that when the car is resting the shocks travel up a little and still have some lift as well. How do you normally set your preload and does your shocks travel up a little when the car is at rest?
Ya I forsure have some up travel from the spring compression. It helps to keep it from bottoming out and creating weird vibrations. It’s a balance of ride height, spring compression and shock oil but it’s pretty simple and is something that you can play with and mix up over time. If your shocks feel bouncy that’s totally normal too. It helps reduce vibration alot so if you see super light weight oils being used it’s normal haha
Hey guys, my MST MRX Pro groundplate is scratching on the Ground. The Suspension is at the highest setting, but it looks like the stock shocks r to short. What whould you do?
Question, I started with crawlers, that being said shocks are required to be precise, on a budget, with the plastic shocks on the rhino, would it be possible to replace the o rings, possibly polish the stock shock shafts to allow for smoother ride? It seemed like it helped considerably more after I rebuilt the stock shocks on my crawler until I could afford I the hot racing piggy backs. Thank you
You can definitely go a long way with cheap shocks on the drift side of things. The front end essentially just floats and bounces so there doesn't really need to be a lot of precision there. Thats why you'll see some cars almost chassis slap in the front. The springs you try are a good tuning tool before buying super pricey shocks. Those can be later used with better shocks if you upgrade. Playing with the front end settings as far as camber and toe are going to give the most help when tuning to be honest.
I wouldn't even bother polishing or upgrading orings. With the plastic shocks i dont think it would be worth the time to polish and upgrade orings just because the tolerance is already opened up enough to allow that smooth pass. But.. You 100% could still do all that to get better performance, my only gripe is youll probably end up spending $20-$40 on orings and the other goodies you need. Still a bit pricey and probably wouldn't make much more of a difference. Hope this helps!
@@SeanLewisMedia dude I am so grateful for your help, I just ordered a Sakura D5 kit today, first rwd drift card I've owned. I bought and built the rmx2. 0 a few years ago and it was a gift for my brother you I hadn't seen in 15 years. It was a kinda sorry I missed all them bdays. I never got and it disappeared as well as him. So now I am starting all over. Watching tons a videos and saving them to watchlist specific for RC drifting/timing
I love RCs. So grateful for you and the helpful information
@@joespafford6499 You're so welcome! I wish you the best in your RC journey!
Love these vids man, I also got the overdose duals, I noticed the O rings were creating tension, as if I had super thick oil, I had none in lol, I sat them in the damper oil for a while and it sorted that out 😅
Glad you enjoyed! And yes those orings can cause some issues but I’m glad you got it sorted! That’s crazy they were empty lol. I had some left over blue orings that I put some green slime on to hopefully preserve haha. The OD Springs are dialed👌🏼
What overdose helper springs are you using please mine are way to soft
@@leewalt mine are soft as well. The serial number on the package is OD3719, that should take you to exactly what I have
@SeanLewisMedia thank you I will check them out
Would be interesting to see what difference cheap and more expensive shocks (like yeah racing bb Vs Yokomo bb) have
Great suggestion! If I ever have a reason to pick some up I will definitely make a video about it👍🏻
good knowledge sharing man
Thank you I appreciate you watching!
I’ve been waiting this to come at super G , but always preorder.
Where did you get yours? Thanks
Which part? I know most of these were in stock except the white guides.
@@SeanLewisMedia yes that part 😁
The white guide
@@JAM-vu3ol I tried to get another set on Tuesday and they were still out. I asked but they didn’t know when unfortunately. I still need a set so I’ll keep looking and try to update you
@@SeanLewisMedia thank you 🙏
Of course! Thanks for watching and supporting!@@JAM-vu3ol
Good info
Thank you Michael!
No tapered pistons?! :O Also i need those guides xD
No tapered pistons yet haha. I could see my self doing some testing down the road though haha. The guides are hard to get right now haha
@@SeanLewisMedia that's unfortunate! But I wanna take my stock pistons and try to drill them or something 😅 see how wild I can go 🤪
Send it!! Haha@@ShakeHandsWithBeef
@@SeanLewisMedia always 😈
Lol found this cuz I’m wanting a shark chassis now. But you was talking about the shock on the cheaper being bouncy lol well my sd 2.0 does this with the big bores. But I like it lol thing drives so good the way I have it right now. That’s for all the info and when I do get my shark you have me hooked on the purple 😂
These cheaper one seems that has no oil insiste.
I built them really well too with team associated special shock freeze too. I was surprised how bouncy they were. You could use heavier oil or springs but the potential slop in the plastic parts makes them less than ideal.