My system is getting installed today, 12” fi audio Neo 3.5, Gately box 2.75 tuned to 33hz, Salt 2 amp. Stereo Integrity 6.5 and tweeters with 125.4 Stereo Integrity class A/B amp for front stage. Still need to get a DSP, and next month have an appointment for high output alternator, and AGM group 31 upgrade. Been slowly collecting parts and finally found an installer who I can trust and knows his stuff.
Yooo, man that sounds Awesome! That system is gonna BANG!! It'll be crystal clear, with SOLID Bass! So happy for you, brother! I hope you'll create a video when it's done. if so, please let me know!
those morels sound really nice and warm. I might have to switch over to morel from my alpine type x. I know what you mean grow up in rough neighborhood, philly born and raise here. Still grinding here in philly, my eagles going bring home super bowl next sunday
Thank you bro. My car audio mentor told me Morel was the best he'd ever heard...20 years later, I finally listened to him... lol. Yeaaah yo, I HATE the Chiefs... I'm pulling for Philly all the way!
Yeah !! It’s so great how you share knowledge or car audio, I wish there more like you so we wouldn’t blow out are tweeter in first 5 mins after getting them, I used a audio pipe three way had a set of 150 dollar tweeter that lasted about 3 mins & it blew, I was trying to add a 3rd speaker to front stage, I have a small dead spot any suggestions be great how to add a mid range ,I have Jl audio c-3 6.5 component and Jl audio c-7 5x7 In back ,sad thing about tweeter was I was only trying to test a mid but I’m happy I did with a Rockford fosgate tweeter but that set 6,5 cost me $379 bucks now missing a tweeter 🤦🏼♂️
I'm really glad I could help, but man that sucks about your tweeters! Blowing speakers is never fun, unless you're doing SPL competitions and feeding them 3-times what they're rated for LOL!! As for your tweeter and dead spot issue, I would ask are you running a dsp? Where are you getting the dead spot...in your staging, or does it sound like something is missing from a certain frequency? If you have a chance, please watch the video I released today. I mention my frequency range from top to bottom. Hopefully that will help, and if not, I will be here if you have more questions.
im really considering a DSP for my next car system. passive xovers are fairly limiting.. i mean to say the power input is rated at the strength of the capacitors/resistors in the xover. i have recently wondered how a midbass can handle 150w on it's own, but when paired under a 2-way xover the entire comp setup is only rated for 80w ? now it makes sense after watching a few vids. i'm obviously not an electrical engineer LOL using active xovers in a 3 way setup sounds amazing, the tuneability of it all.. 50-600 for the midbass, 600-3000 for the midrange, and 3000-15K for the tweets, all run from a 6 channel DSP.. (or more, if you have rear mids / sub) in other news.. have you ever used the foam-backed sound deadening and if so, is it better at reducing road noise and vibration over say, a 80 mil "standard" type deadener?
A DSP is almost a must have for great sound nowadays. I mean, you can 100% get great sound without it still, but what it gives you can make a world of difference. As for passive crossovers being limited, I definitely get it, but not to the point where it will limit the power to 80w while the woofer can handle more. They're usually designed to where they match the rated power of the speakers in the system. Take for example the Morel crossovers I used in this video. If I recall, that crossover can take 140w/rms, and based on my experience with Morel, the woofers can handle the same power with or without it....so you'd be perfectly fine feeding them the power listed on the back of the woofer. And for using foam backed sound deadening, yes I have but only as a cushion where the plastic panel meets the metal in the car, to silence the rattling sound, and it works well.
@Swen-bk3kz My vehicle came with little to no sound deadening, but I have since added 5-layers and dynamat and kilmat as well as acoustic foam, and it finally worked. Single layers did pretty much nothing for me. This video is a year old, and I have since upgraded my doors to Morel MW9, and believe it or not, my doors no longer rattle or buzz because of the layers used....and proper placement.
No, because they both need their own frequencies to perform at their best. Most midrange speakers will cut off at around 6ooohz or so, but tweeters can go up to 20Khz or higher. Playing a midrange up to that frequency will definitely burn the voice coil. Are you thinking of doing that to add more speakers or or drop your ohm load down to 2-ohms to get more power from your amp?
Thank you. The recorder helped a lot. Recording with my phone would have been worse. I perfected my recorder settings, so if you view my most recent demo videos, you should get a much better sound.
It would depend if you're running some type of eq or dsp. The crossover will have a set hpf/lpf and then you can tune from there, if using the built-in amplifier crossovers. These Morel crossover's have a 2,200hz hpf/lpf so the tweeters play from 2.2-20K, and the 6-1/2" midrange will play from 2.2hz down to 60hz or so. In my system, I am running fully active through a dsp, so my head unit is set flat, and my amplifiers are full range. All processing is done through the dsp.
@@Ahm-Creative I'm running tha alpine status 3 ways on a Sony mobile es 4 channel and plan on getting a 6 channel arc audio amplifier in the future to run active with a dsp in the future. But now I'm just doing the eq on my alpine ilx-f511 radio. Thanks for the info 👍
@@jasx1485 oh man, that sounds awesome! I haven't heard the Status yet, but I've heard good things. Yes, for now, if you're using the passive crossovers, you can set your amp to full range, and do all of your processing through the head unit. If you try to do it through the head unit, along with the amp filters, it will work, but it won't be as accurate as the frequency notches on the amp, because you're using both processors in conjunction...if that makes sense. You basically don't want them to fight, so it would be one or the other, and I'd say stick with what you're doing now, eq'ing though the head unit. That way, you're in full control without added processing from the amps.
WOW...you got an INSANE deal!! Congrats brother! It sounds like you're not planning on running them actively, so yes, you will definitely need the crossovers. I'm actually selling mine, so if you're interested, send me an email and I'll give you all the details.
Hey brother. Always killing it with the great content. I have been wanting to ask you since that video when you mentioned that you got better crossover points from the morel guys. With crossover points are you using right now?
Thank you brother, I am doing my best. I actually have an upcoming video showing my crossover points, but I don't mind sharing with you now. As you know, I'm running my system fully active, and my crossover points, from the sub up to the tweeters are: 12" Sub: 24-80hz 8" doors: 80-250hz 3.5" dash: 250-2,700hz Tweeters: 2,700-20,000hz I set my sub at 24hz because I didn't like the way 20hz sounded in my car, but the 8" doors to the tweeters crossover points were recommended by Morel.
@@Ahm-Creative thank you so much brother. I will definitely looking for that video as there is not that much information on RUclips about the Elate carbon pro. I'm actually running the Morel 3way pro set with the original MW6 and the sealed 10" W7 from JL but I use the recommended crossover points recommended in the specs flyer that they include in the box. I will try your points and let you know how much better it sounds.
@@reynielasencio1964 glad to help brother. I wish I had a W7, but I didn't want to spend that much. But I am completely happy with my Stereo Integrity SQL-12. Yes, please let me know. I hope it helps, as it completely changed my sound for the better.
And here I am stuck with 4ch Match Dsp and passive crossovers 😔 (set the HPF and Bypassed the LPF) Should I go for 2 ch active and remove the rear speakers? That sounds like 50% music when I volume down the rears...lack of differential set up etc etc
Well, I'm actually using my head unit to power my rear fill, but they're barely powered as I have the h/u faded forward 90% to cut the power. It's not differential because they're not processed through my dsp, but running them flat has similar frequencies to my front stage, so it actually widens my stage and carries to the back, without ruining my time alignment. It's made a huge difference for me. It's always hard to tell through video, but if you want to get straight to the music, skip forward to the 11-minute mark. Hopefully you can tell. Please listen with headphones if you can. ruclips.net/video/6IHd0PzPltU/видео.htmlsi=I_MA58Av7D9pZJ8L
I purchased them from Crutchfield, but I'm actually selling mine. They're practically brand new and you can save some money if you're interested...depending on how far I'd have to ship them. Please email me at nethedd@gmail.com to work out a deal. If not, if you search MXR200.4 on Crutchfield, they'll come right up.
![I Still Love Car Audio [n' Car Audio Tech Stuff]](http://yt3.ggpht.com/5NUov558raXVbHy0rbTf-FvwaQNOlnVeCTa33zZljH9IqZTfb8Z2sp0N9Bi1u_hKUtwC3cjL=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
Happy to find this channel
That's awesome to hear! I'm happy you found my channel too, and I hope you'll come back for more
My system is getting installed today, 12” fi audio Neo 3.5, Gately box 2.75 tuned to 33hz, Salt 2 amp. Stereo Integrity 6.5 and tweeters with 125.4 Stereo Integrity class A/B amp for front stage. Still need to get a DSP, and next month have an appointment for high output alternator, and AGM group 31 upgrade. Been slowly collecting parts and finally found an installer who I can trust and knows his stuff.
Yooo, man that sounds Awesome! That system is gonna BANG!! It'll be crystal clear, with SOLID Bass! So happy for you, brother! I hope you'll create a video when it's done. if so, please let me know!
what did you think of 125.4 amp?
Always with the great content man. Thanks for sharing, system sounds amazing!
Thank you Brother! Glad I could share and help, and I appreciate you watching. Glad you like my sound too. There will be more videos to come.
those morels sound really nice and warm. I might have to switch over to morel from my alpine type x. I know what you mean grow up in rough neighborhood, philly born and raise here. Still grinding here in philly, my eagles going bring home super bowl next sunday
Thank you bro. My car audio mentor told me Morel was the best he'd ever heard...20 years later, I finally listened to him... lol.
Yeaaah yo, I HATE the Chiefs... I'm pulling for Philly all the way!
Great content as always 👏👌
Thank you so much brother! I truly appreciate that, and I'm glad you found it helpful.
You da man. Thanks for doing this video brother.
Haha awesome bro! Glad I could help.
Yeah !! It’s so great how you share knowledge or car audio, I wish there more like you so we wouldn’t blow out are tweeter in first 5 mins after getting them, I used a audio pipe three way had a set of 150 dollar tweeter that lasted about 3 mins & it blew, I was trying to add a 3rd speaker to front stage, I have a small dead spot any suggestions be great how to add a mid range ,I have Jl audio c-3 6.5 component and Jl audio c-7 5x7 In back ,sad thing about tweeter was I was only trying to test a mid but I’m happy I did with a Rockford fosgate tweeter but that set 6,5 cost me $379 bucks now missing a tweeter 🤦🏼♂️
I'm really glad I could help, but man that sucks about your tweeters! Blowing speakers is never fun, unless you're doing SPL competitions and feeding them 3-times what they're rated for LOL!!
As for your tweeter and dead spot issue, I would ask are you running a dsp?
Where are you getting the dead spot...in your staging, or does it sound like something is missing from a certain frequency?
If you have a chance, please watch the video I released today. I mention my frequency range from top to bottom. Hopefully that will help, and if not, I will be here if you have more questions.
im really considering a DSP for my next car system. passive xovers are fairly limiting.. i mean to say the power input is rated at the strength of the capacitors/resistors in the xover. i have recently wondered how a midbass can handle 150w on it's own, but when paired under a 2-way xover the entire comp setup is only rated for 80w ?
now it makes sense after watching a few vids. i'm obviously not an electrical engineer LOL
using active xovers in a 3 way setup sounds amazing, the tuneability of it all.. 50-600 for the midbass, 600-3000 for the midrange, and 3000-15K for the tweets, all run from a 6 channel DSP.. (or more, if you have rear mids / sub)
in other news.. have you ever used the foam-backed sound deadening and if so, is it better at reducing road noise and vibration over say, a 80 mil "standard" type deadener?
A DSP is almost a must have for great sound nowadays. I mean, you can 100% get great sound without it still, but what it gives you can make a world of difference.
As for passive crossovers being limited, I definitely get it, but not to the point where it will limit the power to 80w while the woofer can handle more. They're usually designed to where they match the rated power of the speakers in the system. Take for example the Morel crossovers I used in this video. If I recall, that crossover can take 140w/rms, and based on my experience with Morel, the woofers can handle the same power with or without it....so you'd be perfectly fine feeding them the power listed on the back of the woofer.
And for using foam backed sound deadening, yes I have but only as a cushion where the plastic panel meets the metal in the car, to silence the rattling sound, and it works well.
@Swen-bk3kz My vehicle came with little to no sound deadening, but I have since added 5-layers and dynamat and kilmat as well as acoustic foam, and it finally worked. Single layers did pretty much nothing for me.
This video is a year old, and I have since upgraded my doors to Morel MW9, and believe it or not, my doors no longer rattle or buzz because of the layers used....and proper placement.
Can l connect mid range speakers and tweeters on same position
No, because they both need their own frequencies to perform at their best. Most midrange speakers will cut off at around 6ooohz or so, but tweeters can go up to 20Khz or higher. Playing a midrange up to that frequency will definitely burn the voice coil. Are you thinking of doing that to add more speakers or or drop your ohm load down to 2-ohms to get more power from your amp?
this sounds nice even through a mic.
Thank you. The recorder helped a lot. Recording with my phone would have been worse.
I perfected my recorder settings, so if you view my most recent demo videos, you should get a much better sound.
If you are using the passive crossovers do you just set the hpf crossover on the amplifier and leave the lpf crossovers off?
It would depend if you're running some type of eq or dsp. The crossover will have a set hpf/lpf and then you can tune from there, if using the built-in amplifier crossovers. These Morel crossover's have a 2,200hz hpf/lpf so the tweeters play from 2.2-20K, and the 6-1/2" midrange will play from 2.2hz down to 60hz or so.
In my system, I am running fully active through a dsp, so my head unit is set flat, and my amplifiers are full range. All processing is done through the dsp.
@@Ahm-Creative I'm running tha alpine status 3 ways on a Sony mobile es 4 channel and plan on getting a 6 channel arc audio amplifier in the future to run active with a dsp in the future. But now I'm just doing the eq on my alpine ilx-f511 radio. Thanks for the info 👍
@@jasx1485 oh man, that sounds awesome! I haven't heard the Status yet, but I've heard good things.
Yes, for now, if you're using the passive crossovers, you can set your amp to full range, and do all of your processing through the head unit. If you try to do it through the head unit, along with the amp filters, it will work, but it won't be as accurate as the frequency notches on the amp, because you're using both processors in conjunction...if that makes sense. You basically don't want them to fight, so it would be one or the other, and I'd say stick with what you're doing now, eq'ing though the head unit. That way, you're in full control without added processing from the amps.
@@Ahm-Creative 10-4 thanks for the advice I definitely appreciate it.
good info
Man just picked up a set of 6.5 inch morel vertus nano for 50 dollars the guy didn't use them do i need to crossovers for them that you have
WOW...you got an INSANE deal!! Congrats brother!
It sounds like you're not planning on running them actively, so yes, you will definitely need the crossovers.
I'm actually selling mine, so if you're interested, send me an email and I'll give you all the details.
Hey brother. Always killing it with the great content.
I have been wanting to ask you since that video when you mentioned that you got better crossover points from the morel guys. With crossover points are you using right now?
Thank you brother, I am doing my best.
I actually have an upcoming video showing my crossover points, but I don't mind sharing with you now.
As you know, I'm running my system fully active, and my crossover points, from the sub up to the tweeters are:
12" Sub: 24-80hz
8" doors: 80-250hz
3.5" dash: 250-2,700hz
Tweeters: 2,700-20,000hz
I set my sub at 24hz because I didn't like the way 20hz sounded in my car, but the 8" doors to the tweeters crossover points were recommended by Morel.
@@Ahm-Creative thank you so much brother. I will definitely looking for that video as there is not that much information on RUclips about the Elate carbon pro.
I'm actually running the Morel 3way pro set with the original MW6 and the sealed 10" W7 from JL but I use the recommended crossover points recommended in the specs flyer that they include in the box. I will try your points and let you know how much better it sounds.
@@reynielasencio1964 glad to help brother. I wish I had a W7, but I didn't want to spend that much. But I am completely happy with my Stereo Integrity SQL-12.
Yes, please let me know. I hope it helps, as it completely changed my sound for the better.
Sounds familiar
What's the song name ?
@@josechavolla7186 "Record Player" by Daisy the Great.
And here I am stuck with 4ch Match Dsp and passive crossovers 😔 (set the HPF and Bypassed the LPF) Should I go for 2 ch active and remove the rear speakers? That sounds like 50% music when I volume down the rears...lack of differential set up etc etc
Well, I'm actually using my head unit to power my rear fill, but they're barely powered as I have the h/u faded forward 90% to cut the power. It's not differential because they're not processed through my dsp, but running them flat has similar frequencies to my front stage, so it actually widens my stage and carries to the back, without ruining my time alignment. It's made a huge difference for me. It's always hard to tell through video, but if you want to get straight to the music, skip forward to the 11-minute mark. Hopefully you can tell. Please listen with headphones if you can.
ruclips.net/video/6IHd0PzPltU/видео.htmlsi=I_MA58Av7D9pZJ8L
Please put up a link to the crossover please.
Thank u
I purchased them from Crutchfield, but I'm actually selling mine. They're practically brand new and you can save some money if you're interested...depending on how far I'd have to ship them.
Please email me at nethedd@gmail.com to work out a deal. If not, if you search MXR200.4 on Crutchfield, they'll come right up.