Man, I don't understand why people don't realize this by now, that's about the first thing you learn about these nitros. I sold a T-maxx 2.5 on EBay a while ago, had a THS pipe, and the guy messaged me asking a whole bunch of weird stuff, and amongst that he asked how it ran with such a rich tune. I told him it ran great. What I didn't tell him is it pulled wheelies on command and did 36mph. I guess he finally drove it, cause he messaged me a couple days later raving about how awesome the truck was and finally stopped harassing me. Also, good note about the factory settings not necessarily being good settings. I find where I'm at, if I run my Traxxas engines at factory settings it is way too lean. I have to back out about a turn on both needles from factory in order to get it good enough to start tuning. I think this cold be easily overlooked by rookies.
exactly! and because again I'm at sea level it needs much richer tuning as well. any engine i have ever had is always way to lean everything always wants ½ or ¾ or 1 truns out more then the so called factory settings
I like to tune mine with mexican food indian food and some bbq food sometimes i think its a good idea to mix those tunes up also like to run some whiskey through that tune every now and then
Good topic Bug. This is a very common question. The only good thing about “knowing” the initial needle settings is just to give a starting point. Over time/with experience, we get an understanding of what “might” be close enough to to start. Get the engine running and then we have to tune from there. Thanks for the vid 🔥💪🏻
no worries buds this was like 4am when I made it i was in pain and couldn't sleep got the question again and thought ok video time lol I now realize I did forget a few things temperatures blah blah blah 😂
I use a 9/64 idle gap with 2.86 turns on the high speed 4 turns on the mid speed and 1.48 turns on the low speed. Works every time with every fuel on any engine.
I have found that airleeks can make life very difficult and if u eliminate the possibility of airleeks it makes the tuning a lot easier. Plus everything you said bro start rich and big gap and work her in 💪💪
Hey man great video i couldnt have explained it any better than that and ive been in the hobby about 22 years and im only going to be 33 this year lol. You said everything anyone ever needs to know in less than ten minutes bro thats what im talkin about. Loved it dude
Thanks for the kind words! And yeah I have been 21 years in since 2000 im 31 at the moment But yeah I've tried looking all over the Internet and no one really explains that they kind of touch on it for a second but they don't really get into very good detail about it
Great content, tried the LSN setting flush with the carb body rather than the throttle ball cub as you stated. you know the bit you can remove and or adjust the angle, but on my engine this seemed to shut the needle in the seat and restricted the fuel and it wont start put it back to flush with the throttle ball cap, so effectively further out and it started and ran fine Its a .28 motor and i realise all engines will differ regards start up settings anyway great vids and keep nitro popping and banging Dean
I found you channel a couple of weeks ago ….I’m learning a lot from you…I just purchased a nitro slash for my first truck. It was a gift. With the 3.3 traxxas engine,,,,,I’m just a little concerned about the fuel,,and the glow plugs,,,not knowing what’s the best of both…the engine is not broke in,,,and hasn’t been started yet,,,any recommendations for first start up…I am learning a lot from your knowledge…thanks a million. Looking forward to your future videos….👈👍
Hey sorry for the very late reply it takes me a long time to catch up to the comments sometiyeah Chuck in the comments sometimes and as far as fuel and plugs go for that engine I'll tell you the best stuff to use. OS LC3 glow plug will allow easy tuning and performance and Longevity. As for fuel any 20 or 30% nitro with no more than 12% oil avoid Traxxas fuel as it has way to much oil and don't tune well or perform well at all
Grate video my factory tune has allways ben matalica master of Puppets Volume turned up all the way Then you will be able tune perfectly or the old fashioned way acid works well tuning my old panhead
I think the easiest way is once the engine is up to temp is to start with about a 1mm idle gap for rotory carbs and about 1.3mm for slide carbs and tune from there. What do you think Bug.
@@David-069 yeah I read it backwards 😅 1.3 for slide carbs is still a lot though. All my .21 and .12 engines have an idle gap of 0.6-0.45mm with a race tune on them.
Okay so I said about that could be more or less thsts the easiest way to tune start with the 1mm idle gap . As you said it depends where you live you have to take all the out door elements into account. Okay so where do you start.
It’s not so much what tune do you use (that makes absolutely zero sense) but how do you tune. Obviously it’ll be different for everyone because of the many variables that affect tuning, but there is a general rule to tuning nitro engines and that’s what most people gotta figure out
Yeah no I understand exactly what you mean but like I was saying that's a common question that people always ask what tune are you using and you will see it all over the groups and all over RUclips that's ridiculous and that was my whole point behind the video that you can't just give somebody something like that it doesn't work that way I just put it out there that way because it's such a commonly asked question if that makes sense haha
Yeah they don't seem to last. Wheel bearing are fine just not in engines I have been running NTN or SKF bearings with good luck. You can usually buy them at any bearing house for a few bucks each.
Wouldn’t colder weather also affect the tune as the air is denser, so would it require more or less fuel? I totally understand your video, there is NO tune across the board. I’m definitely no expert on tuning, but what I don’t understand is the leaner vs. richer and cold plugs vs. hot plugs, and much more.
To help explain: If your engine is running well in the hot dry summer (90F thinner air) and now you want to run and it is a cool fall day (53F cooler air is more dense, which more slower moving air particulars per volume), your “summer tune” is now more lean. The change of temperature added air to the air fuel mixture. If you add air then it leans the mixture out. So, you need to add fuel/richen the mixture to balance it out. - Generally speaking for plugs, it is a similar conversation to “tuning”. It all depends and use of different plugs can affect your tune to a degree. A hot plug allows for the air fuel Mixture to burn hotter (may allows for a more consistent idle) but, the plug will not last as long. Since the plug is “hotter” it can affect the engines timing. It advances the timing which ignites the air fuel mixture slightly sooner (comparatively). It is all a balance and every situation will take a little different solution
@@a2rc thanks! But you mentioned timing, doesn’t that only apply to engines with valves? Or am I just being too general? Kind of the same reason there are no cams, no valves to manage. I’ve never heard of timing being an issue, but, that’s also exactly why I am here, to learn the mysteries of Kung Fu, oh and 2 stroke engines. Thanks for all the support, and the Hot plugs I use have always made initial tuning so much simpler. I suppose it’s because it does what you said, burns the fuel more efficiently. And gets the engine running to the point where I can actually see the changes in the carb adjustments.
I have a off topic question, i use 0% nitro and i live in hot tropical area (around 95 - 110 degrees Fahrenheit) when i start my engine it reaches about 280F - 300F. Is this normal or is my engine too hot? I really appreciate your help, thanks so much advance, newbie here and love your vids a lot!
0% requires leaner tuning it actually Burns hotter if you're not careful depending on many factors. there's there's absolutely no point behind it unless you can't get normal fuel somewhere.
@@isabelodelrosario3660 Yeah that's a little too warm for sure you want to keep it under that if you can richen it up a bit. Also it's 65$ a gallon plus here. And for awhile I could get methanol cheap but not anymore and now if I want 0% it costs more than just buying fuel pretty annoying
@@thebug4046 Ha! There has only been one better item for a revenge prank. And it was a spray can we had in middle school of canned farts. Same thing really, only immediate action and wayyy more stank! Lol!
i use fsctory seeting to get it going if if im strugiling to start it if its a new engine or one ive been giveing because too mant people fucked with it anf could get it started anymore
Yes the factory settings are available but a lot of these older engines there's hardly any information on and everybody always asks what's the best setting for my engine which I can't help with haha
What's weird as I said in my comment a few days ago I'm at 5000' in Utah and the "factory settings" for 3.3 was super lean and I killed my first nitro I have now rebuilt and running stupid fat for break in have yet to finish breakin but you said that it needs to be leaner not richer wonder why it was so lean. Seriously my motor hit 320 at the plug so I just said fuck that and rebuilt
Factory settings are too lean for where I'm at as well. I'd start with both needles about 1 turn out from factory see if that's rich enough to keep it running ok. Also, make sure there are no fuel or air leaks as that can also cause a seemingly lean condition and overheating.
@@NerfCraft I have check for leaks nothing there my exhaust leaks like a bastard so I doubled the orings to fix that and I'm almost 6 turns on HSN and 3 1/2 on lsn
It's like a tell everybody just because factory settings say one thing doesn't mean they're gonna be completely accurate depending on your elevation temperature humidity and fuel I have had engines that are too rich at sea level and engines that are too lean at sea level. And my 3.3 in the tmaxx got to 360°f that was my own fault because I wasn't paying attention during the first idle tank with the cylinder head wrapped up with a sock to hold temperature when it was cold outside. Still runs absolutely fine. Now if it's at those temperatures all the time and bogging at high rpms and chattering when you let off is fuel starvation and isn't doing it any favors
Yes Climate change plays a big factor in tuning. Your motor should sing to you. if your Patient and make small adjustments. There's your Chicken Soup recipe lol. Love it Bug 🤣🤪😂👊✌
Hey bud! Glad to see you pop in! So you had questions about your tmaxx and m16 engine? If you have a Facebook account check my group out! Nitro/Diesel/gas rc and more. On Facebook Will be to questions to answer i will let you in! And get you up and running! It's a fairly quiet group but a bunch of very good knowledgeable people in there no nonsense at all!
I can't explain how I tune my engines, I learned to hear and feel it. That's it.
Man, I don't understand why people don't realize this by now, that's about the first thing you learn about these nitros. I sold a T-maxx 2.5 on EBay a while ago, had a THS pipe, and the guy messaged me asking a whole bunch of weird stuff, and amongst that he asked how it ran with such a rich tune. I told him it ran great. What I didn't tell him is it pulled wheelies on command and did 36mph. I guess he finally drove it, cause he messaged me a couple days later raving about how awesome the truck was and finally stopped harassing me.
Also, good note about the factory settings not necessarily being good settings. I find where I'm at, if I run my Traxxas engines at factory settings it is way too lean. I have to back out about a turn on both needles from factory in order to get it good enough to start tuning. I think this cold be easily overlooked by rookies.
exactly! and because again I'm at sea level it needs much richer tuning as well. any engine i have ever had is always way to lean everything always wants ½ or ¾ or 1 truns out more then the so called factory settings
For me it's the opposite, running the engine with "factory" settings is way much rich, I have to lean it back like a turn!
I like to tune mine with mexican food indian food and some bbq food sometimes i think its a good idea to mix those tunes up also like to run some whiskey through that tune every now and then
oh man! Mexican and Indian together?? the tunes must be crazy! I bet it gets really loud in the top rpms 😂😂
@@thebug4046 🤣🤣
Good topic Bug. This is a very common question. The only good thing about “knowing” the initial needle settings is just to give a starting point. Over time/with experience, we get an understanding of what “might” be close enough to to start. Get the engine running and then we have to tune from there. Thanks for the vid 🔥💪🏻
no worries buds this was like 4am when I made it i was in pain and couldn't sleep got the question again and thought ok video time lol I now realize I did forget a few things temperatures blah blah blah 😂
The way I see it, there's a power band sweet spot that I'm trying to find between the low & high needle, start off rich then slowly lean it out.
Just like any 2 stroke
I use a 9/64 idle gap with 2.86 turns on the high speed 4 turns on the mid speed and 1.48 turns on the low speed. Works every time with every fuel on any engine.
Amazing 46 second video time to run my engine on chicken soup!
Man you are badass at this stuff! I’m learning everyday and been in this for years. Thank you bud.
Thanks for watchin! Glad it helped ya! I learn new stuff everyday to my guy 💯😎🍻
Your engine noises are awesomely funny but great tips
Haha thanks man 🍻
Yeah some people out there don’t know what the help their doing tuning is affected by the fuel and air ratio and the weather outside as well
Very much so
Dude that's hilarious. But that is good way to explain it .
I have found that airleeks can make life very difficult and if u eliminate the possibility of airleeks it makes the tuning a lot easier. Plus everything you said bro start rich and big gap and work her in 💪💪
Well of course being the fact these are 2 stroke engines that they have any kind of leak they run terrible
Hey man great video i couldnt have explained it any better than that and ive been in the hobby about 22 years and im only going to be 33 this year lol. You said everything anyone ever needs to know in less than ten minutes bro thats what im talkin about. Loved it dude
Thanks for the kind words! And yeah I have been 21 years in since 2000 im 31 at the moment But yeah I've tried looking all over the Internet and no one really explains that they kind of touch on it for a second but they don't really get into very good detail about it
This tune made me hungry! Awesome vid!
that's for dinner tonight haha welcome
Great content, tried the LSN setting flush with the carb body rather than the throttle ball cub as you stated. you know the bit you can remove and or adjust the angle, but on my engine this seemed to shut the needle in the seat and restricted the fuel and it wont start
put it back to flush with the throttle ball cap, so effectively further out and it started and ran fine
Its a .28 motor and i realise all engines will differ regards start up settings
anyway great vids and keep nitro popping and banging
Dean
Thanks man and yeah there is a handful of different low speed throttle arm designs you kinda gotta work with what you got
Made your chicken soups today it was fire … cricket 😂😂😂 have a awesome day my dude 👌🤙👍🏻🇬🇧
😂😂
🤣🤣🤣 that was fuckin amazing!! chicken soup recipe 😂😂
You're welcome lol
I found you channel a couple of weeks ago ….I’m learning a lot from you…I just purchased a nitro slash for my first truck. It was a gift. With the 3.3 traxxas engine,,,,,I’m just a little concerned about the fuel,,and the glow plugs,,,not knowing what’s the best of both…the engine is not broke in,,,and hasn’t been started yet,,,any recommendations for first start up…I am learning a lot from your knowledge…thanks a million. Looking forward to your future videos….👈👍
Hey sorry for the very late reply it takes me a long time to catch up to the comments sometiyeah Chuck in the comments sometimes and as far as fuel and plugs go for that engine I'll tell you the best stuff to use. OS LC3 glow plug will allow easy tuning and performance and Longevity. As for fuel any 20 or 30% nitro with no more than 12% oil avoid Traxxas fuel as it has way to much oil and don't tune well or perform well at all
@@thebug4046 I have on hand LC4 plugs ….good?
@@jimmygeorge3582 perfect
Excellent video 👍
thanks for the information brother i really enjoy ur content 😎
Anytime!
Grate video my factory tune has allways ben matalica master of Puppets Volume turned up all the way Then you will be able tune perfectly or the old fashioned way acid works well tuning my old panhead
🤘🏻🍻💥
I think the easiest way is once the engine is up to temp is to start with about a 1mm idle gap for rotory carbs and about 1.3mm for slide carbs and tune from there. What do you think Bug.
1mm idle gap seems a bit big for slide carbs, but if the engine is rich enough, it should be fine.
Hi buddy I don’t think you read it properly
@@David-069 yeah I read it backwards 😅 1.3 for slide carbs is still a lot though. All my .21 and .12 engines have an idle gap of 0.6-0.45mm with a race tune on them.
Yeah the rotary car braider will definitely look like the idle gap as much bigger than it actually is but it's smaller on the under side
Okay so I said about that could be more or less thsts the easiest way to tune start with the 1mm idle gap . As you said it depends where you live you have to take all the out door elements into account. Okay so where do you start.
It’s not so much what tune do you use (that makes absolutely zero sense) but how do you tune. Obviously it’ll be different for everyone because of the many variables that affect tuning, but there is a general rule to tuning nitro engines and that’s what most people gotta figure out
Yeah no I understand exactly what you mean but like I was saying that's a common question that people always ask what tune are you using and you will see it all over the groups and all over RUclips that's ridiculous and that was my whole point behind the video that you can't just give somebody something like that it doesn't work that way I just put it out there that way because it's such a commonly asked question if that makes sense haha
Thank you!!!
welcome
Well put! And thanks for the chicken soup recipe- covid doesnt stand a chance now :)
Lol you're welcome that stuff usually fixes everything!
Fast eddie bearings suck u were right. Any recommendations for trx2.5?
Yeah they don't seem to last. Wheel bearing are fine just not in engines I have been running NTN or SKF bearings with good luck. You can usually buy them at any bearing house for a few bucks each.
Lol I love your banter bro , can you tell me what to do with my chicken stock
What do you need to know? Lol
@@thebug4046 how not to burn stupid people with it when there brewing there nitro chickens
@@belfastladd28 🤣🤣
@@thebug4046 on a lighter note I’m in the mgt range atm 8.0s fun fun bro
@@belfastladd28 those are awesome
Everyone can have the same exact tune, doesn't matter where your at, hahahahahaha good video bug
Wouldn’t colder weather also affect the tune as the air is denser, so would it require more or less fuel? I totally understand your video, there is NO tune across the board. I’m definitely no expert on tuning, but what I don’t understand is the leaner vs. richer and cold plugs vs. hot plugs, and much more.
To help explain: If your engine is running well in the hot dry summer (90F thinner air) and now you want to run and it is a cool fall day (53F cooler air is more dense, which more slower moving air particulars per volume), your “summer tune” is now more lean. The change of temperature added air to the air fuel mixture. If you add air then it leans the mixture out. So, you need to add fuel/richen the mixture to balance it out.
- Generally speaking for plugs, it is a similar conversation to “tuning”. It all depends and use of different plugs can affect your tune to a degree. A hot plug allows for the air fuel Mixture to burn hotter (may allows for a more consistent idle) but, the plug will not last as long. Since the plug is “hotter” it can affect the engines timing. It advances the timing which ignites the air fuel mixture slightly sooner (comparatively). It is all a balance and every situation will take a little different solution
yes! absolutely! cold vs hot weather is another thing! I just forgot to mention it 🍻
I did a video a few months ago about the hot vs cold plug thing as well
@@a2rc thanks! But you mentioned timing, doesn’t that only apply to engines with valves? Or am I just being too general? Kind of the same reason there are no cams, no valves to manage. I’ve never heard of timing being an issue, but, that’s also exactly why I am here, to learn the mysteries of Kung Fu, oh and 2 stroke engines. Thanks for all the support, and the Hot plugs I use have always made initial tuning so much simpler. I suppose it’s because it does what you said, burns the fuel more efficiently. And gets the engine running to the point where I can actually see the changes in the carb adjustments.
@@thebug4046 ahh! Then I shall seek it out! Thanks! 👏👏👏
thix for the vid that mad my day lol
Thanks for watchin
Sweet bud
I have a off topic question, i use 0% nitro and i live in hot tropical area (around 95 - 110 degrees Fahrenheit) when i start my engine it reaches about 280F - 300F. Is this normal or is my engine too hot?
I really appreciate your help, thanks so much advance, newbie here and love your vids a lot!
0% requires leaner tuning it actually Burns hotter if you're not careful depending on many factors. there's there's absolutely no point behind it unless you can't get normal fuel somewhere.
@@thebug4046 thank you so much!!!! Im running vrx cheapo nitro rc force .18 engine
Nitro fuel here is very expensive, was hoping to know if its too hot or not
@@isabelodelrosario3660 Yeah that's a little too warm for sure you want to keep it under that if you can richen it up a bit. Also it's 65$ a gallon plus here. And for awhile I could get methanol cheap but not anymore and now if I want 0% it costs more than just buying fuel pretty annoying
@@thebug4046 thanks a lot bug! Your a engine saver
HA ha ha that’s funny 😂 i can play you a tune on my guitar dude.
That I can not do! 😆
I see the stink bombs, so is sulfur helpful? I haven’t finished the video…oh, guess not!
those are for a Revenge prank 😂
@@thebug4046 Ha! There has only been one better item for a revenge prank. And it was a spray can we had in middle school of canned farts. Same thing really, only immediate action and wayyy more stank! Lol!
i use fsctory seeting to get it going if if im strugiling to start it if its a new engine or one ive been giveing because too mant people fucked with it anf could get it started anymore
Yes the factory settings are available but a lot of these older engines there's hardly any information on and everybody always asks what's the best setting for my engine which I can't help with haha
So are you saying their is a Learning Curve!
lol Get Better Brother.
lol yeah it's just a answer to the same question I get like multiple times a day
lol this was a funny video 🤣🤣
What's weird as I said in my comment a few days ago I'm at 5000' in Utah and the "factory settings" for 3.3 was super lean and I killed my first nitro I have now rebuilt and running stupid fat for break in have yet to finish breakin but you said that it needs to be leaner not richer wonder why it was so lean. Seriously my motor hit 320 at the plug so I just said fuck that and rebuilt
Just Bc it ran hit once dosent mean it needs rebuilt instantly
Factory settings are too lean for where I'm at as well. I'd start with both needles about 1 turn out from factory see if that's rich enough to keep it running ok. Also, make sure there are no fuel or air leaks as that can also cause a seemingly lean condition and overheating.
@@NerfCraft I have check for leaks nothing there my exhaust leaks like a bastard so I doubled the orings to fix that and I'm almost 6 turns on HSN and 3 1/2 on lsn
It's like a tell everybody just because factory settings say one thing doesn't mean they're gonna be completely accurate depending on your elevation temperature humidity and fuel I have had engines that are too rich at sea level and engines that are too lean at sea level. And my 3.3 in the tmaxx got to 360°f that was my own fault because I wasn't paying attention during the first idle tank with the cylinder head wrapped up with a sock to hold temperature when it was cold outside. Still runs absolutely fine. Now if it's at those temperatures all the time and bogging at high rpms and chattering when you let off is fuel starvation and isn't doing it any favors
@@NerfCraft exactly
Hey bro let me ask u this how long do u hold on to fuel before it is unable to use
Well sealed out of direct sunlight off the concrete it can Last a few years
@@thebug4046 I appreciate u bro thank u I have a gallon of fuel and I've maybe used it twice. I have the time to burn it now
@@allaspectsrc4178 i have a gallon that sat 5 years still good running its just the air and moisture that you have to be careful of
No broth in that tune? 🤣🤣🤣
30% broth leave the fat content about 9%
@@thebug4046 love your content. You are the fkn man
@@daniely30 thanks man 🍻🍻
Yes Climate change plays a big factor in tuning. Your motor should sing to you. if your Patient and make small adjustments. There's your Chicken Soup recipe lol. Love it Bug 🤣🤪😂👊✌
Hey bud! Glad to see you pop in! So you had questions about your tmaxx and m16 engine? If you have a Facebook account check my group out! Nitro/Diesel/gas rc and more. On Facebook Will be to questions to answer i will let you in! And get you up and running! It's a fairly quiet group but a bunch of very good knowledgeable people in there no nonsense at all!
Don't forget to check nitro Rc enthusiasts as well!
@@thebug4046 Thank you so much Bug. Really Appreciate you reaching out.
@@cyclonerc1625 no worries! Also! Do have a M16 rebuild video to from around 2 years ago I believe
@@thebug4046 There's a M 16 on Eboy right now that's why I was asking. But my luck it will probably get to expensive for my blood lol.
I've been saying to my mates for years lol I can't help you pall sorry I can tell you but just research
Basically it
@@thebug4046 saying that I've got a couple of my mates cars that need tuning they been in my loft since first lockdown lol ...need to pull them out