Hi Phil, good vlog as usual. I’ve been hand painting/ spraying all types of kitchens and other furniture since the early eighties in every finish known to man. Rag rolling,dragging, marbling,antiquing and wanting to strangle some customers who drove me around the bend. Anyway I digress 🤨 Just wanted to let you and anyone else that these…Fossa Microsilk Microfibre rollers from Decorating Direct are excellent a near spray like finish with no need to lay it off. Their foam rollers are excellent too and will expand a little but don’t fall apart in Bin primer. The Fossa tapes are excellent too and a bit cheaper too. Don’t need to tell you about the Viper brushes. Keep it up Phil ✌️
Great videos, I do use white zinsser 123 with universal tints and mix whichever colours I want as an undercoat to suit whichever topcoat is going over the top. Not sure if you've tried this? Regards
We use a lot of F&B and we say that colour the way you pronounce it, great video btw , full of little gems of information , looking forward to next one.
The other great thing about Flow&Bond instead of water is that paint mixed with water, if left for a few months, can go off because of bacteria. No such problem with paint mixed with Flow & Bond.
Hi Phil, great content as always! May I ask, have you used Farrow & Ball Dead Flat? I am considering colour drenching my hall stairs and landing, that has wooden stairs and wooden panelling on the bottom meter. It is all primed using leyland primer undercoat. Thank you in advance for any advice you can lend.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thank you for your time to reply, top man! I look forward to seeing a video on the The F&B Dead Flat. I ended up going for Johnstones Cleanable scuff resistant matt emulsion. After 3 hours of painting, the paint seems baked on the scuttle pot, it would not scrub off with a brillo. Their PPG technical guy said that it would withstand heavy traffic areas on walls and primed wood and suitable for a hall and stairs. I can hear you now "Are you mad? emulsion on wood? Wheres your skuff x or renner?" I hate painting and couldn't get a decorator, so I am doing it myself and didn't want to go through all the paint process. The first coat has gone on so well. If I am not happy with it, I can always give it a slight rub and apply an eggshell over the top of the "yanky trim" 🙂 at a later stage.
This is Ian from Smith & Rodger, we manufacture the Flow&Bond. Pleased to say that because only 10% of Flow&Bond is being added to the mix it will not not alter the sheen level of the paint. Hope this helps.
@@smithrodger Ian, Thanks for the info, my point was more around the improved flow out with the paint when your product is added. I was just interested in how much difference there was with reduced roller and brush marks. I’ll find out anyway as I just about to paint some rads with flow & bond added 👍
Great detailed video Philip. One question why in this instance have you added an undercoat to your paint system for this job, when your useing and Eggshell as a paint finish.
Good thorough job Phil thanks for the tips. I’ve asked a few similar questions recently so apologies for any duplication. I’m trying to decide between a satin and eggshell finish, which isn’t helped by the fact that some almost overlap in terms of sheen and could be the other! If you were choosing an eggshell would you go for: Dulux Heritage, Isomat Isolac, Bedec (MSP or Aqua Advance) or another brand (I’ve excluded any hybrids as don’t want yellowing) And the same for satinwood: Aqua Guard, Isomat Isolac, Bedec (MSP or Aqua Advance), Farrow and Ball Modern Eggshell (more of a satin finish) or another brand. I’ve excluded Scuff X due to cost as it’s a small project. Thanks for your guidance. The only stipulations are it needs to be available in a ‘proper’ white, durable and preferably cover for two +/- an undercoat.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I’m happy to consider either. 20-40% I would say. F&B estate eggshell is my favourite eggshell finish but never applied it myself and it has yellowed in areas of low natural light due to being a hybrid. My go to paint used to be Dulux Trade Satinwood (oil) which gives a lovely sheen and is very durable with no brush marks but want to move with the times.
So if using a hvlp to spray kitchen cabinets, would you use the flow and bond to thin down the paint instead of water or would you still thin down with water as well as using the flow and bond? Thanks
Both! HVLP, the paint needs to be thin, so a I'd have to add water to thin the paint down. Flow and Bond doesn't thin the paint out the same.. If you have a remote pot with hvlp, you'll know how thin the pant needs to be to even get the paint through the pipe ;)
Owatrol Easy surface prep ,a clear liquid you wipe on and wipe off and in 2 hours to 7 days you can paint any surface without needing to sand, perfect for kitchen cupboards, wardrobes, has never let me down, been using it for years, owatrols does an oil to add to solvent based paints which is the dogs and flowatrol for water based paints, for the person who asked 😀
Stookey blue
thats it!! thanks
Morning Phil
Small tip, the ‘anti bac’ big wipes don’t leave any residues, that’s what I use and cause it’s anti bac it’s better for your hands/hygiene
Hi Phil, good vlog as usual. I’ve been hand painting/ spraying all types of kitchens and other furniture since the early eighties in every finish known to man. Rag rolling,dragging, marbling,antiquing and wanting to strangle some customers who drove me around the bend.
Anyway I digress 🤨
Just wanted to let you and anyone else that these…Fossa Microsilk Microfibre rollers from Decorating Direct are excellent a near spray like finish with no need to lay it off. Their foam rollers are excellent too and will expand a little but don’t fall apart in Bin primer. The Fossa tapes are excellent too and a bit cheaper too. Don’t need to tell you about the Viper brushes.
Keep it up Phil ✌️
Great videos, I do use white zinsser 123 with universal tints and mix whichever colours I want as an undercoat to suit whichever topcoat is going over the top. Not sure if you've tried this?
Regards
We use a lot of F&B and we say that colour the way you pronounce it, great video btw , full of little gems of information , looking forward to next one.
Awesome! Thank you!
F&B have a RUclips video where they pronounce it ‘Stooky’ blue
Looking good fella, you must be racking them man-points up from the Mrs for doing all this !!!
I get thanks in other ways lol
The other great thing about Flow&Bond instead of water is that paint mixed with water, if left for a few months, can go off because of bacteria. No such problem with paint mixed with Flow & Bond.
Looking good Phil, well presented. I picked up a roll of that tape to give it a run out. Look forward to the rest of the series.
Thank you Phill 👍
Thanks
Welcome
Tidy job as usual 👍👏
Thank you! Cheers!
It’s stiff key …Phil 😂
He's using a Russian knock off 😂
Hi Phil, great content as always!
May I ask, have you used Farrow & Ball Dead Flat?
I am considering colour drenching my hall stairs and landing, that has wooden stairs and wooden panelling on the bottom meter. It is all primed using leyland primer undercoat. Thank you in advance for any advice you can lend.
I've not tried it yet.
but have clour drenched in LickPro Eggshell... walls and woodwork... looks great.. videos to come.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thank you for your time to reply, top man! I look forward to seeing a video on the The F&B Dead Flat.
I ended up going for Johnstones Cleanable scuff resistant matt emulsion. After 3 hours of painting, the paint seems baked on the scuttle pot, it would not scrub off with a brillo.
Their PPG technical guy said that it would withstand heavy traffic areas on walls and primed wood and suitable for a hall and stairs.
I can hear you now "Are you mad? emulsion on wood? Wheres your skuff x or renner?"
I hate painting and couldn't get a decorator, so I am doing it myself and didn't want to go through all the paint process.
The first coat has gone on so well. If I am not happy with it, I can always give it a slight rub and apply an eggshell over the top of the "yanky trim" 🙂 at a later stage.
It would be interesting to see the F&B finish without the additives for comparison. Does it make any difference to the finish?
it shouldn't alter the finish.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratoryou won’t I’m sure but if you did have issues would they say you didn’t follow their system by using an additive?
This is Ian from Smith & Rodger, we manufacture the Flow&Bond. Pleased to say that because only 10% of Flow&Bond is being added to the mix it will not not alter the sheen level of the paint. Hope this helps.
@@smithrodger Ian, Thanks for the info, my point was more around the improved flow out with the paint when your product is added. I was just interested in how much difference there was with reduced roller and brush marks. I’ll find out anyway as I just about to paint some rads with flow & bond added 👍
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Ref my reply to Ian.
Phil, have you compared Flow & bond with Floetrol?
Nope. They'll be do the same I'd think.
Great detailed video Philip. One question why in this instance have you added an undercoat to your paint system for this job, when your useing and Eggshell as a paint finish.
a lot of water based paint systems are THREE coats, primer/Uc foloowed by two top coats.
F&B is no differnt.
Good thorough job Phil thanks for the tips. I’ve asked a few similar questions recently so apologies for any duplication. I’m trying to decide between a satin and eggshell finish, which isn’t helped by the fact that some almost overlap in terms of sheen and could be the other!
If you were choosing an eggshell would you go for:
Dulux Heritage, Isomat Isolac, Bedec (MSP or Aqua Advance) or another brand (I’ve excluded any hybrids as don’t want yellowing)
And the same for satinwood:
Aqua Guard, Isomat Isolac, Bedec (MSP or Aqua Advance), Farrow and Ball Modern Eggshell (more of a satin finish) or another brand. I’ve excluded Scuff X due to cost as it’s a small project.
Thanks for your guidance.
The only stipulations are it needs to be available in a ‘proper’ white, durable and preferably cover for two +/- an undercoat.
Are you wanting the eggshell flatter finish... Or one with more sheen?
What percentage are you after?
1 being dead flat
100 being full gloss
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I’m happy to consider either. 20-40% I would say. F&B estate eggshell is my favourite eggshell finish but never applied it myself and it has yellowed in areas of low natural light due to being a hybrid. My go to paint used to be Dulux Trade Satinwood (oil) which gives a lovely sheen and is very durable with no brush marks but want to move with the times.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorput another way Phil, if you had to pick one eggshell and one satin you could only ever use again what would they be…. 😅
@@Liverpool1ne not Aqua Guard lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator ah come on that’s not fair 😂
So if using a hvlp to spray kitchen cabinets, would you use the flow and bond to thin down the paint instead of water or would you still thin down with water as well as using the flow and bond? Thanks
Both!
HVLP, the paint needs to be thin, so a I'd have to add water to thin the paint down.
Flow and Bond doesn't thin the paint out the same.. If you have a remote pot with hvlp, you'll know how thin the pant needs to be to even get the paint through the pipe ;)
ESP is the product to use, messing about with zinsser, no need 😮
Do you think it works as well?
@ProfessionalPainterDecorator absolutely boss, used it many times, never had any come backs
@@philipmorris57What's ESP mate ?
Owatrol Easy surface prep ,a clear liquid you wipe on and wipe off and in 2 hours to 7 days you can paint any surface without needing to sand, perfect for kitchen cupboards, wardrobes, has never let me down, been using it for years, owatrols does an oil to add to solvent based paints which is the dogs and flowatrol for water based paints, for the person who asked 😀
Aqua bin vs shellac bin? Thanks
what are you thinking?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I’m still trying to work out the different between Aqua bin and the old waterbased zinsser 123 bullseye product
So you 10% to the paint then another 10% when painting again?
what do you mean?