Ahhhh yes....Antiques can be a real beast. If the came is super tiny, like hobby came, try putting a tiny bevel on your glass by holding it at a severe angle, do a small grind all around, flip and do the same on the other side. Sometimes just taking off a bit and making the edge more tapered will facilitate holding the came on the edge.
I did my first zinc came border the other day on a 18x12 window and the "kiss it" method made my connections look like a seasoned veteran. Awesome video.
Ich freue mich sehr, dass ich von Euch jungen Leuten so wunderschöne Arbeiten sehe und Ihr sie für andere teilt. Habe herzlichen Dank für Deine umfangreichen Ausführungen. Herzliche Grüße aus Thüringen Hardy
Thank you for answering my first question so quickly. I tried looking up 5/16” u came but could not find that larger size. Can you guide my a company/shop where I can purchase on line? Love how you teach!!
All irons are calibrated differently.....as well, the body of lead cames are quite different sooooo, all that means is that you have to experiment with some sacrificial pieces of lead to get the right temp. We start by turning the iron down a notch and then adjust to a temp where solder flows nicely but the iron can be right down on the lead material without burning through. Hope this helps
I love this video! Thank you. I have a 34” circular piece I need to frame and it’s stressing me out! It’s a lot of pieces (700) and I have to reinforce with restrip. Would initially framing it with lead came and then framing it in wood be a good idea in order to even out the edges?
Yes, Lead came first around the edge will help to even everything out. In fact, we use an H channel instead of U channel when we need to even out an edge and it’s ultimately going into a wood frame. This does two things; one, It gives rigidity to your piece and makes it easier to handle two, it allows you to shave down the lead came in areas where it doesn’t fit perfectly into the frame because the outside part of the H is empty. Does that make sense?
Did you say paste flux is not corrosive, or the brand you use is not corrosive? I really like your channel. I learn something new everytime I watch. Thank you so much! P.S. That is a beautiful piece!
The brand of flux is called nokorode and it is non corrosive (you do want to wipe it off after soldering though as it can stain the lead. Im glad youve found the videos helpful. Thank you for tuning in!!
Hi I don't know how to make a panel with letters do you have a tutorial ? My neighbor wants me to make a panel with the words The Vault. I haven't done this before I have no idea how to cut glass letters
This seems to be a fairly large piece. Recently I went into a shop looking for glass, while there I mentioned that I was learning the process and was going to use lead cane for the outer edge of several pieces to hang in windows instead of reframing in wood. They strongly suggested I use zinc. My question being how big of a piece can you safely use and hang using lead came and it not stretch?
Thank you for your inquiry....Good question, to which there are several answers. In order to frame a round, oval, or anything that is not straight requires a zinc bender in order to use zinc. This is a tool (mercedes bender) that is pricey and has a learning curve to get proficient (not a bad thing). Lead came is stretched before using, bringing the metal alloy into its tensile range, which means it is fairly rigid and much of the "sag" is mitigated. With that said, still a good idea to remember that over the course of time lead will stretch. The real key is hanging your piece properly. A piece should always be hung with 2 hooks that have long tails (we twist pretinned 14 gauge wire to accomplish this) that can be solder right into two seams in the top third of your piece. Never should a piece be hung from the edge trim regardless of it being zinc or lead came. Your piece should then be hung "museum style" which just means with two chains, or whatever you are using for a hanging apparatus, straight up to two anchors. Never should a piece be hung from just one anchor as that will encourage the piece to bend regardless of what has been used (zinc or lead) for framing. Our rule of thumb is, if the piece warrants external support (rough guidelines, every 18-22") then the piece should be framed in wood, in order to properly notch into the framing. (commercial framing in aluminum or steel also allows for external support to be secured) Wowsa....sorry that was a waaaaaaay longer explanation than i intended. Hope it helps!
Thank you so much for your reply. Do you have a video showing what you are referring to when you say a piece should always be hung with 2 hooks that have long tails soldered right into two seams?
Hi, so the flux paste works differently in that if you used liqiud flux you couldn't go around all the points like you just did all at once because you would have to reapply, would that be correct ? Also did you use any reinforced barring in the middle with the foil ? Will you be puttying the outside frame so theres no gap between the glass & the lead frame ? So many questions lol sorry 🤣
The paste flux stays "put" because its thick...big advantage. I know there was no external support on this one but there may have been flex bar soldered in between the foiled seams. Flex bar is a braided flat mesh strand that goes on end in between seams and it is extremely maliable so can be bent around all sorts of shapes curves, etc....
This piece is not very big….I’m going to guess that it was around 21 “. It was hung from two points, with long tailed wire that were soldered into a seam. I inform clients to hang their pieces ( when not in a wood frame) museum style (straight and from two points) This prevents pulling that can make a piece bend no matter if zinc or lead is on the edge. Hope this was helpful.
@shardsglassstudio9298 Where do I get information about this hanging style? What do you mean into the seam if it's got a frame. I really need help with this as I moving into larger pieces. TIA 🙏
@@valerieburgess6602 this technique is what you would use if you were NOT using a wood frame. The piece should always be hung from two areas that are as close to adjacent as possible in the top third of the piece
Hi I am doing a round piece of picture of wizard and my daughter wants led lights behind it can a piece of perspex be used for backing and lights inbetween any hints please
Nice ....Most of our stuff that is artificially lit is done in a full installed frame method. Meaning it is installed into an opening that can be lit, usually by bouncing light off of a white shiny background, but full disclosure, ive never done anything that is free hanging and lit artificially. Sorry not much help for your situation. Good luck with it!
You should be able to buy from your local stained glass store. I buy from company in georgia but they are only wholesale. Let me know how you make out.
I'm new to stain glass, and just made my first large project 18" by 19". I used copper foil. It will hang in a window. Is there a reason other then looks to use either lead or zinc as a border? Is just soldering the edge not strong enough for something that size?
Strength is determined by design. As long as you don’t have a ton of straight lines (always becomes a hinge where the piece wants to bend) you may be ok with out edging. When hanging, make a hook with a long tail and solder it into seams that are in the top third of your piece. Be aware the seams may be in the interior of the top third of piece and not directly along the edge.
We offer only private lessons now but yes, we do teach the method of lead came Please call 978 977-0460 if you would like information about private seminars or to schedule a time.
We stretch with a stanton stretcher which is put out by Glastar. They are no longer in business but if you can find one on line or at your local stained glass supplier, BUY IT! Other than that, you can get a spring loaded lead vise (pretty much at any glass supplier and pull the lead by hand, one end in the vise and hold onto the opposite end with a pair of grozing pliers. It takes a fair amount of upper body strength and an average, depending on the lead size and profile is about a 6" stretch. If you can, stretch over a table so that once it is straight you can lie it down to keep it straight till you cut it into lengths. If you can help it don't cut it smaller before the stretch because that will take away your leverage and it will be much harder to get the "slack" out of the lead. Hope this helps
So what you want to do is put the H came around your piece first. Then take the diameter of your circle in several places, taking an average, knowing that you can shave down some of the outside edge of the H came. Then have a frame made that you can "drop in'' your piece. You definitely do not want to have a channel (if im understanding what you said) as there would be no way to "drop" your circle into it. It can be held into the circular frame with silicone/ push points/ or a thin bendable reed (or the historic way....use a rope that has been dredged in glue. place around the perimeter and once the glue dries, give extra support by adding a few nails into the glue stiffened rope. A fun solution!) Good luck .
why use lead when there probably are a lot of other optional materials /anyways, came to this channel to see the process of scoring and cutting stained glass
Oh boy….where to start. Being in this industry I accepted early on that the ubiquitous material is lead and that I would find ways to use it responsibly for the health of myself, family, and the environment. What does that mean? Always use a lead VAPOR (not dust) barrier respirator. Never solder around children or pets…and recycle scrap lead with a metal scrap yard. Lead IS a hazardous material (as you point out) and should never be discarded in the trash. If your goal is a stained glass without lead ( solder or came) give mosaics or dalles de verre a go. They are beautiful.
@@shardsglassstudio9298 Hi, I’m just..really admiring the physics of glass (or just thin glass?) and the limits of the curves that can be made :) I’ve once wanted to make one of those rectangular infinity tealight boxes. Didn’t require much more than thin window glass, some transparent foil and a tough silicone sealant. - that’s pretty much it
Your fingers are pretty much black at the end from handling the lead. While it likely won't be absorbed through your fingers...I hope you wash your hands well after so you don't transfer it elsewhere. Gloves??
Thank you for the comment and suggestion. Yes definitely to washing hands copiously! As you might be able to tell from looking at my hands, they are quite a mess (dry,dry,dry) from so much soap and water....We never wear gloves (Ive tried and get my fingers caught constantly). When soldering its a bad idea to wear gloves, in my opinion. If you drop a blob of hot solder on your hand without gloves, it rolls off and causes nothing more than maybe a small blemish, but if you have gloves on, hot solder can get trapped and cause a much worse burn.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Wedging came around antique glass at 4:45.
Thank you! I’ve been making ornaments using antique glass and trying to get it into the came is hard!
Ahhhh yes....Antiques can be a real beast. If the came is super tiny, like hobby came, try putting a tiny bevel on your glass by holding it at a severe angle, do a small grind all around, flip and do the same on the other side. Sometimes just taking off a bit and making the edge more tapered will facilitate holding the came on the edge.
I like your art work and appreciate for your teaching👍👏😍
I did my first zinc came border the other day on a 18x12 window and the "kiss it" method made my connections look like a seasoned veteran. Awesome video.
Im so glad it worked well for you
That's a beautiful piece of glass you are working with.
Ich freue mich sehr, dass ich von Euch jungen Leuten so wunderschöne Arbeiten sehe und Ihr sie für andere teilt.
Habe herzlichen Dank für Deine umfangreichen Ausführungen.
Herzliche Grüße aus Thüringen
Hardy
Thank you so much for this video it was so helpful!
I am new to using lead came and this video really helped
Thank you Jared, I’m glad it was helpful
Thank you for this video. I’ve started by own channel as well. Attempting to document my own journey.
Thank you for sharing
Sure wish I could have seen the piece in the light☹️
great video, thank you!
I wish she had shown the stretching process
Thank you Nancy,
Good point. We use just a conventional stretcher clamp and expect the lead to stretch somewhere around 6".
New to these vids. Thanks for explaining those were NOT wire snips. Have a great day! 🙂
Oh you bet....Never, never cut anything but lead....Thanks for your comment
Please say the size of the Chanel I have some but this looks larger I think it will fit my large circle better!!!
Thank you for answering my first question so quickly. I tried looking up 5/16” u came but could not find that larger size. Can you guide my a company/shop where I can purchase on line? Love how you teach!!
We buy wholesale so i do not have a source for retail. Where do you live?
very informative for a newbie. Thank you. what temp did you set your iron at, I saw that you lowered it for joining the lead came to edges.
All irons are calibrated differently.....as well, the body of lead cames are quite different sooooo, all that means is that you have to experiment with some sacrificial pieces of lead to get the right temp. We start by turning the iron down a notch and then adjust to a temp where solder flows nicely but the iron can be right down on the lead material without burning through. Hope this helps
I love this video! Thank you. I have a 34” circular piece I need to frame and it’s stressing me out! It’s a lot of pieces (700) and I have to reinforce with restrip. Would initially framing it with lead came and then framing it in wood be a good idea in order to even out the edges?
Yes,
Lead came first around the edge will help to even everything out. In fact, we use an H channel instead of U channel when we need to even out an edge and it’s ultimately going into a wood frame. This does two things;
one, It gives rigidity to your piece and makes it easier to handle
two, it allows you to shave down the lead came in areas where it doesn’t fit perfectly into the frame because the outside part of the H is empty. Does that make sense?
Yes that makes perfect sense, thank you! When I get a frame made it should also have an H channel as well right?
@@brookedavis3028 Sorry Brooke, I commented above. Please see the explanation
Did you say paste flux is not corrosive, or the brand you use is not corrosive? I really like your channel. I learn something new everytime I watch. Thank you so much! P.S. That is a beautiful piece!
The brand of flux is called nokorode and it is non corrosive (you do want to wipe it off after soldering though as it can stain the lead. Im glad youve found the videos helpful. Thank you for tuning in!!
Hi I don't know how to make a panel with letters do you have a tutorial ? My neighbor wants me to make a panel with the words The Vault. I haven't done this before I have no idea how to cut glass letters
This seems to be a fairly large piece. Recently I went into a shop looking for glass, while there I mentioned that I was learning the process and was going to use lead cane for the outer edge of several pieces to hang in windows instead of reframing in wood. They strongly suggested I use zinc. My question being how big of a piece can you safely use and hang using lead came and it not stretch?
Thank you for your inquiry....Good question, to which there are several answers.
In order to frame a round, oval, or anything that is not straight requires a zinc bender in order to use zinc. This is a tool (mercedes bender) that is pricey and has a learning curve to get proficient (not a bad thing).
Lead came is stretched before using, bringing the metal alloy into its tensile range, which means it is fairly rigid and much of the "sag" is mitigated. With that said, still a good idea to remember that over the course of time lead will stretch. The real key is hanging your piece properly. A piece should always be hung with 2 hooks that have long tails (we twist pretinned 14 gauge wire to accomplish this) that can be solder right into two seams in the top third of your piece. Never should a piece be hung from the edge trim regardless of it being zinc or lead came. Your piece should then be hung "museum style" which just means with two chains, or whatever you are using for a hanging apparatus, straight up to two anchors. Never should a piece be hung from just one anchor as that will encourage the piece to bend regardless of what has been used (zinc or lead) for framing.
Our rule of thumb is, if the piece warrants external support (rough guidelines, every 18-22") then the piece should be framed in wood, in order to properly notch into the framing. (commercial framing in aluminum or steel also allows for external support to be secured)
Wowsa....sorry that was a waaaaaaay longer explanation than i intended. Hope it helps!
I also shoud have stressed that the edge treatment, zinc or lead, is to add rigidity.....NOT for hanging from
Thank you so much for your reply. Do you have a video showing what you are referring to when you say a piece should always be hung with 2 hooks that have long tails soldered right into two seams?
Thanks for this video and this reply! Saved me from hanging a teardrop shaped piece from just one hook at the top of the came.
Hi what kind is saw did you use to cut zinc?
I use a cheap little chop saw from Harbor Freight. Makes 0-45 degrees.
@@jenorrn Yes, they are great and there is a notch in the vise that will hold brass tubing firmly for a clean cut.
How do I secure the foiled pieces in a round piece? I can't find round jigs just square ones😮
Typically we just use dressmaker T pins to hold the round perimeter. Use two pins per piece.
Hi, so the flux paste works differently in that if you used liqiud flux you couldn't go around all the points like you just did all at once because you would have to reapply, would that be correct ? Also did you use any reinforced barring in the middle with the foil ? Will you be puttying the outside frame so theres no gap between the glass & the lead frame ? So many questions lol sorry 🤣
The paste flux stays "put" because its thick...big advantage. I know there was no external support on this one but there may have been flex bar soldered in between the foiled seams. Flex bar is a braided flat mesh strand that goes on end in between seams and it is extremely maliable so can be bent around all sorts of shapes curves, etc....
@@shardsglassstudio9298 Thankyou so much for all this valuable info appreciated
Even with the lead came, this piece still requires a wood frame to be hung right? Or is the lead came enough?
This piece is not very big….I’m going to guess that it was around 21 “. It was hung from two points, with long tailed wire that were soldered into a seam. I inform clients to hang their pieces ( when not in a wood frame) museum style (straight and from two points) This prevents pulling that can make a piece bend no matter if zinc or lead is on the edge. Hope this was helpful.
@shardsglassstudio9298 Where do I get information about this hanging style? What do you mean into the seam if it's got a frame. I really need help with this as I moving into larger pieces. TIA 🙏
@@valerieburgess6602 this technique is what you would use if you were NOT using a wood frame.
The piece should always be hung from two areas that are as close to adjacent as possible in the top third of the piece
This is beautiful
Thanks,
Hope you got your piece framed successfully framed
Hi I am doing a round piece of picture of wizard and my daughter wants led lights behind it can a piece of perspex be used for backing and lights inbetween any hints please
Nice ....Most of our stuff that is artificially lit is done in a full installed frame method. Meaning it is installed into an opening that can be lit, usually by bouncing light off of a white shiny background, but full disclosure, ive never done anything that is free hanging and lit artificially. Sorry not much help for your situation. Good luck with it!
Love this tutorial, what brand of paste flux and solder do you use? Thank you 😊
I’m glad it was helpful! We use nokorode paste flux and victory white metal 60/40 when doing lead work.
Where is the best place to buy the lead that you are using in this? I have been trying to find it on my own with no luck.
You should be able to buy from your local stained glass store. I buy from company in georgia but they are only wholesale. Let me know how you make out.
@@shardsglassstudio9298 can you give me the name of the place where you buy it? For I have been looking online and also Hobby Lobby without any luck.
You could contact Ed Hoys international. They have a retail business sight as well as wholesale
I'm new to stain glass, and just made my first large project 18" by 19". I used copper foil. It will hang in a window. Is there a reason other then looks to use either lead or zinc as a border? Is just soldering the edge not strong enough for something that size?
Strength is determined by design. As long as you don’t have a ton of straight lines (always becomes a hinge where the piece wants to bend) you may be ok with out edging.
When hanging, make a hook with a long tail and solder it into seams that are in the top third of your piece. Be aware the seams may be in the interior of the top third of piece and not directly along the edge.
So 1/8th inch is 3mm, Do you know where I can buy lead came, In uk.
Im sorry. I do not. We buy all our came from a company in Georgia called DHD metals
How wide is the came you are using? I am just getting back into stained glass and I forgot what size width u channel to get
The one that im using is a 5/16" u channel but typically you would see 1/4" (you wouldnt have to fight as much as i do in the video with 1/4")
Do you offer classes for lead at your facility?
We offer only private lessons now but yes, we do teach the method of lead came Please call 978 977-0460 if you would like information about private seminars or to schedule a time.
In working with your project - do you need to solder the edge of the circle or no given you are putting the came on?
No need to solder the edge in fact preferable not too as it makes for an easier fit for the came to snap on an unadulterated edge!!
How do you stretch the lead came?
We stretch with a stanton stretcher which is put out by Glastar. They are no longer in business but if you can find one on line or at your local stained glass supplier, BUY IT! Other than that, you can get a spring loaded lead vise (pretty much at any glass supplier and pull the lead by hand, one end in the vise and hold onto the opposite end with a pair of grozing pliers. It takes a fair amount of upper body strength and an average, depending on the lead size and profile is about a 6" stretch. If you can, stretch over a table so that once it is straight you can lie it down to keep it straight till you cut it into lengths. If you can help it don't cut it smaller before the stretch because that will take away your leverage and it will be much harder to get the "slack" out of the lead. Hope this helps
Thanks I learned a lot.
I’m glad it was helpful
nice 😀work！
So what you want to do is put the H came around your piece first. Then take the diameter of your circle in several places, taking an average, knowing that you can shave down some of the outside edge of the H came. Then have a frame made that you can "drop in'' your piece. You definitely do not want to have a channel (if im understanding what you said) as there would be no way to "drop" your circle into it. It can be held into the circular frame with silicone/ push points/ or a thin bendable reed (or the historic way....use a rope that has been dredged in glue. place around the perimeter and once the glue dries, give extra support by adding a few nails into the glue stiffened rope. A fun solution!) Good luck
.
why use lead when there probably are a lot of other optional materials /anyways, came to this channel to see the process of scoring and cutting stained glass
Oh boy….where to start.
Being in this industry I accepted early on that the ubiquitous material is lead and that I would find ways to use it responsibly for the health of myself, family, and the environment. What does that mean?
Always use a lead VAPOR (not dust) barrier respirator. Never solder around children or pets…and recycle scrap lead with a metal scrap yard. Lead IS a hazardous material (as you point out) and should never be discarded in the trash. If your goal is a stained glass without lead ( solder or came) give mosaics or dalles de verre a go. They are beautiful.
@@shardsglassstudio9298 Hi, I’m just..really admiring the physics of glass (or just thin glass?) and the limits of the curves that can be made :)
I’ve once wanted to make one of those rectangular infinity tealight boxes. Didn’t require much more than thin window glass, some transparent foil and a tough silicone sealant.
- that’s pretty much it
Your fingers are pretty much black at the end from handling the lead. While it likely won't be absorbed through your fingers...I hope you wash your hands well after so you don't transfer it elsewhere. Gloves??
Thank you for the comment and suggestion. Yes definitely to washing hands copiously! As you might be able to tell from looking at my hands, they are quite a mess (dry,dry,dry) from so much soap and water....We never wear gloves (Ive tried and get my fingers caught constantly). When soldering its a bad idea to wear gloves, in my opinion. If you drop a blob of hot solder on your hand without gloves, it rolls off and causes nothing more than maybe a small blemish, but if you have gloves on, hot solder can get trapped and cause a much worse burn.
I got real nervous when she brought out that hammer.
Bahahahahaha, Yup, glass and hammers.........very bad
What was the size came you used on the outer edge of the circle?
This is a u channel 5/16"