OTARI MX-5050 BII capstan maintenance & repair
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- Опубликовано: 14 июн 2021
- Dear friends, in this video we are doing service and repair for a capstan of the very popular Otari tape recorder. As always, I showed all the works in detail and in detail and described the problems in subtitles.
Also, today I am uploading this video without a musical background so that it does not distract from the process! And the music is often not need in the video and you want silence. Please write in the comments if music is needed in such repair videos or not. Thanks for watching! 
Наука
Thanks for this excellent video, am refurbishing one and this helps a lot!
Omg yes 🙌 finally a video on tension arm service/lubrication, I have the service manual for mine and this procedure/alignment is not listed anywhere. Finally I can service my mx5050. Thank you so much for doing this video. I would love to see you do a service video on the mkiii-8 mx5050 or even the Teac 80-8... love your content! Just subscribed! Cheers!
One tip on the microswitch - you can simply swap the nc/no contacts over. They're identical. 👍😄
Perfect repairing
Thankyounfor the video,
I used to service these when they were new, and I found one in a newsroom,
that refused to play. The reel had got jammed or something, then in play mode it proceeded to fine polish the metal motor captain shaft to a
Mirror finish. I noticed the machine in this video did not get a fine sandblast to the shift to reduce the problem,and the flutter.
I only mention this,because some of your viewers will get shiny capstain syndrome.
Those microswitches are common and cheap, so I never saw anyone repair one before.
I am telling you the truth here..a new one tested as 120 khz replay, so I connected a tv video to the machine atv15 ips,
I then replayed the output back into a TV, and the pictures was fuzzy, not really watch able, but surprisingly, you could tell it
Was motorbike racing. The 120 khz response would have decayed after a week of Use.. but it was fun to try.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, indeed, some users of 5050 machine with a heavily worn capstan may face a mirror shine problem. The capstan shaft on the video is fortunately still in good condition. The tape contact area on this capstan is slightly lighter, but it is not shiny. That part of the shaft, where you could probably see the large shine of the mirror on the shaft in my video, located inside the sleeve bearing (when the motor is assembled) - this is normal.
Microswitches yes, their similar replacement exists, but in our country they are rare to find, and if you order in other countries, you have to wait for quite a long time (although you need to look where they are and order 10-20 pieces for repairs at once)...
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this. My MX5050BII2 thanks you as well.
Many thanks!
Video excelente, obrigado por postar um video tão detalhado e com tomadas de video que ilustam cada etapa dessa manutenção. Parabéns !
Amazing work, amazing video! Thank you.
Lot of thanks!
You are a Precision tech.. you have the patience of a saint ... thank you
Thank you Ken!
Great job! Thanks so much for this!
Thanks for feedback, Thomas!
Wow, beautiful. Pro gear, designed for ease of maintenance.
Excellent video....Purchased a beauty that looks just like the one you repaired and started to have issues with it a few months back. Going to study your video some more and do some research to see if I can stay on top of it's issues. Thanks for posting...
Incredibile! Riparazione eccellente...io non sarei in grado di fare altrettanto. Grazie
Thanks a lot! Well ... it's all experience, some knowledge, a little patience and accuracy. And a little soul invested.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice grazie, io sono solo un appassionato e non un tecnico, alcune nozioni di elettronica che mi permettono di fare qualche riparazione ma niente di impegnativo, non ho l'attrezzatura e strumentazione adatta ma qualche registratore a nastro sono riuscito a sistemarli. Grazie ancora. Ciao
Thank you @anthony. I’m new in reel to reel world. I just bought a machine just like the one that you were repaired. There are not too many maintenance/repair videos like this. It’s very valuable video.
Thanks for your feedback !
Спасибо! Отличное видео! перебрал свой мотор без особых проблем !) Вот бы еще видео по настройке подробное )
Олег, спасибо за фидбек ) Как новые skf встали?) Ёмкости на плате капстана не менял?
Видео по настройке, ты имеешь ввиду, русскоязычное? Я не делал, потому как актуально ли это будет?… так как забугорного видео по настройке 5050 на просторах трубы немало.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice да, всё поменял, не стал только разъём ставить как у тебя) видео много согласен, но разрозненно , у тебя получится информативнее, уверен!
@@olegbutorin9625 , разъём, конечно, ставить не обязательно ) этот двигатель стоит, не снимаясь, в аппарате десятилетиями )) При замене только подшипников такое жёсткое соединение вполне терпимо, а при обновлении конденсаторов не очень удобно )) Пару раз бывало, что от этих плат отлетал какой-то из проводков, пока много раз покрутишь плату.
Видео по настройке аудио тракта будет, сделаю к лету ) постараюсь всё разложить по полочкам и ничего не упустить. Ещё хочу сделать отдельный ремонтный ролик по сервису реле в MX-5050, поскольку в них также нередко встречаются болячки в виде окислений (в частности, в сигнальных реле негерметичного исполнения).
Wow, that was realy a good job👍
Thanks!
amazing! thanks for this. I will check your channel for more MX5050 videos. (I have a Mk3 8tr and in search for more info about proper
maintenance and fixing unstable right lever behaviour)
Thank you so much! This 5050 video is the only one on my channel so far, but I plan to make a few more repair and align videos in the coming months.
If the lever behaves unstable, there may be hard dirt on its surface, check this by pointing a table lamp or flashlight near the lever (check the groove along which the tape runs).
In vietnam 🇻🇳 love ❤
Thanks! Best wishes to Vietnam ❤️
Very high quality content!
Thanks a lot!!
Thanks for making this video. While I would've managed fine without it, it definitely saved me some time and worry! All the sensors had come loose in the capstan motor of the deck I bought - absolutely jammed solid! Haven't replaced the caps yet, but definitely will (when I have a moment!). The front panel switches (Rec/Sel Rep/Osc/Monitor) were oxidized worse than any switch I've ever come across, and not openable. All sealed molded plastic horrors. No way to get inside and really clean them properly. I ended up drilling a tiny hole into the end of each, so I could drench them in deoxit. It worked...for now! Ghastly switches though - a deck of this calibre should've had electronic switching (or higher-quality switches!).
Unfortunately my deck came without hub adapters - the spindles on mine (MX5050BII-4, 1989) are smooth chromed things, no threads or anything. Anyone know what's the correct part number for the hub adapters for this design? Cheers.
You likely already found them, but I believe the part number is KWOH009. Overpriced these days, but worth it as they’re proprietary 🤷♂️ Good luck!
That is a Goot solder sucker. I recently bought one. Nice!
Thanks Jim! Yes, my Goot working properly for 15 years already!
Thanks for recording this
Btw, I forgot to compliment you for making a superb video, with easy to follow steps and explanations. I follow this video and are waiting for new bearings. My old ones are fine and tun smooth, but the are as you say, old, and new SKF's are very smooth. I managed to buy the same glue as you used. Cheap and effective. My MX5050BII2E (DIN) is a very very low mileage one, but service is still needed willy nilly.
What is your best suggestion for a contact cleaner? I've read on many forums that some contact cleaners are very harsh and needs to be cleaned out afterwards, followed by a protective layer, and then it's ready for use. If one use only the contact cleaner, it may work in the beginning, but after say two-three years, the contact points are destroyed by the contact cleaner, and the switch is dead, and with most of them very hard or impossible to find, it's very important to do exactly the right thing.
Thanks for sharing.
Kind regards.
Excellent video
Thanks!!
Liked the video - thanks
Thanks! :)
Great video and you’re a very precise technician. How about addressing the pinch roller arm assembly? I have an MX-50 with a frozen pinch roller. I’ve done many Teac machines with the same issue but the Otari assembly is quite different. Cheers
excellent video
Thanks for rating!
My switch actuator was jammed due to residue from the double-sided tape that had leached into the actuator opening. I was able to disassemble and clean it adequately without unsoldering.
Greetings Anthony. I sent you a few words two months ago on your excellent video---also mentioned having an MX-5050 bii-2 having starting issues. I hear a few seconds of arcing sounds that I believe were coming from the mechanical safety switch, but after further research appears to be coming from the capstan motor. This only happens during initial play or if the unit has sat for about 30 minutes after initial play. Sometimes, I don't get the arcing sound and the motor does not come on at all after moving the right tension arm. Your input would be greatly appreciated--and keep up the great videos.
Сильно!!!
Брат, 💪🤝
Amazing demonstration and video work…especially on the take-up arm safety switch! Wish the titles would last on screen longer…I guess I can’t read your invaluable, informational captions as fast as others.
Steve, good to see you! Thanks for your feedback and rating. I had concerns that this video would be very long if I made the titles longer. I will keep in mind your wishes in new videos… But in this video, at least some big titles, it can pause and read slowly… 👍❤️
Great video, how do you remove the plastic square knobs for Record Play Stop - FF-REW ? any info greatly appreciated
I have not tried to remove the plastic buttons, maybe they are just glued on. I'll figure it out, and maybe record a video. Have you already solved the problem?
Hi again.
I have restored the tension switch the same way you did.
Perfect! 0.12 ohms cables included.
But what kind of grease did you use for lubing the tension pin?
Will vaseline do? Or some kind of vegetable or animal oils?
I have standard grease for more heavy use, but i think this
will only make it messy.
Hi, yes, 0.12 ohm is an excellent resistance, including wiring.
I lubricated the tension arm with a well-known CIATIM Russian-made grease. You can use any technical grease that is suitable for machines and mechanisms, lithium will work well. Of course, avoid to use edible oils and greases, they usually thicken quickly and can also cause corrosion.
Thank you so much for posting this. My BII2 also thanks you as well. I am having trouble understanding why, when calibrating for new tape, my 15ips “HIGH” settings seem to calibrate fine, but when calibrating 7.5ips for -10db, the signal is low (adj potentiometers can’t get above -15db at maximum, adjusted 1k & 10k beforehand properly). Would this mean I have bad repro caps, perhaps?
Спасибо за видео Антон! Очень много полезных моментов увидел, хотя думал что хорошо знаю эту процедуру)). Подписка однозначно!
Подскажи какой камерой пользуешься для съёмки роликов?
Спасибо большое! 🤗
Камера - Lumix G80, снимал в 4K (поскольку мелкие детали всё ж захватываются подробней, чем в обычном full hd)…
Подписка взаимно! У тебя вообще масса разных полезных видео )
Hi Anthony, what kind of lubricant did you use for the capstan? And I saw that you use lubricant on the sharft inside the pinch roller, is that necessary? Otari manual only recommended lubicating the capstan, but since these machines are so old, what other parts do you recommended as part of regular maintenance? Thanks for the great video!
Question. How would you adjust the take up reel motor tension? While playing tapes the rt arm oscillates back and forth. Thank you!
Hello David, the fact is that MX-5050BII has a fixed tape tension. The motors torque depends on the resistors, which is inserted into the motor circuit using the relay contacts. There is no other control electronics that could create such oscillations if it fails. The main cause of oscillations is the use of tape with sticky syndrome (like the old Ampex for example) and tape deposits on this arm.
Do all types/brands of tape experience shoulder oscillation? Are there oscillations when playing new tapes (RMG, RTM, ATR) ?
Hi, Ive recently obtained one of these machines. Would you say that the components you had to replace (like the resistor) are they common to fail? Just wondering if I should consider ordering some resistors and capacitors before it gets here. Thank you for this video, its given me the confidence to buy the MX-5050 BII.
Hi ! nice video. I'm not fluent english : May I ask you if I have a small variation of speed 15 and i wonder if you have the Capstan drive electronic schematic so i can follow signal and find the problem ?
Hello Anthony,
I have just bought an MX5050bIIE and while it works well, I want to undertake a service on the machine, for example what you did in the video. So, are there any other places that this specific SKF bearing is used, such as in the other two motors?
You have mentioned that you want to make a few more videos on this machine. That would be highly appreciated!!!
What oil do you lubricate with? I can order the "approved by Otari" from fleabay, but are there any other oil which is the same or just as good?
Since you use a specific grease that I cannot get here, are there any general descriptions of such grease, such as for example heavy, light, bearing grease (synthetic as from for example car wheel grease (green synth.), lithium grease or anything else?
Kind regards.
Redfox.
Great Video!! I am thinking about buying a used Atari MX 50. Where can I get serviced if need be in Boston and NH area... is $400 a good price if it is working... Thanks!!
hi anthony, thanks for sharing this video. can you please tell me what type of oil i should use to lube the pinch roller mechanism?
Hello, thanks for the feedback!
I lubricated the pinch roller with Motul gear oil, and if you do not have special oil for tape recorders and moving mechanisms, you can use a quality transmission oil with a good degree of cleaning.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice thank you very much!
Caution ..... I first worked on the Mk. 2s and later on, the older Mk. 1s used in a different radio station. These can be identified by the woodgrain sides and a brushed/polished stainless steel front panel and mechanical tape counter. It looked like something typical of the 1970s.
If you encounter a Mk. 1, be extremely careful. They DID NOT have any sort of insulation around the power switch terminals like the Mk. 2, in this video.
I had a nasty 240v shock because I expected the Mk 1. was insulated the same way as the Mk. 2. That landed my in hospital for heart scans as the shock caused chest pains.
Wow, wow 😳 thank god you're alive!... Yes, these machines have really dangerous voltage, and besides the fact that it can be on the old switch, it is present on the boards of the reel motors at the top of the machine under the cover. So all the guys reading the comments here, be careful and take care of yourself.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice You should always be aware of mains voltage present in any mains-powered device and where it is. I just wanted to emphasise that particular point about the power switch of this machine, but it could equally apply to others.
Never assume the same model within a brand to be exactly the same across versions. In this case I had worked on a later iteration and took it for granted, the earlier one was the same when clearly, it wasn't. Thank you for your reply.
Awesome vid Anthony. Gave me the courage to pull my capstan apart today, BUT...I stupidly unscrewed the assembly that houses the three sensors. Do you know if they need to be relocated precisely into location? I guess that they are just sensing the changing magnetic field and so long as they are touching the rotating part it is probably OK? Also, I haven't done the full recondition yet (new bearings, lubrication etc.) but will do soon. When the housing is off the capstan spins easily but when I put it back on it doesn't spin freely any more. Might just need grease on the capstan shaft? Or do you think I might have knocked something out of alignment?
Sorry for the very long reply, thanks for the comment!
Yes, it is desirable to put the plastic bracket with three sensors in place at least approximately, but I don’t think that the overall positioning will affect anything. The main thing is that inside, between the sensors, there should be the right angle.
The sensors should not touch the rotor, but should be located with a small gap. Otherwise, of course, they will make it difficult to rotate, and will be broken (there is a rather fragile ferrite alloy). If the shaft rotates with difficulty, this should not be, and it is necessary to check what is causing the difficulty in rotation ...
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thanks Anthony. I eventually completed the rebuild of the capstan motor and everything is running well. I've also replaced a pinch roller and impedance roller and some other minor repairs and mods. My machine is running really well thanks to you great video. I hope you are doing well at this time sir.
Ben
@@maestrobpm911 Hi Ben, thank you very much, I'm glad to hear it!
👍👍👍
Hi! Awesome video! What is the value for the tantalum capacitor (cap value & rated voltage)?
Thank you.
Thanks Joseph! Tantalum cap values: 0.1uF 35V
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thank-you!
Anthony really good video, i own an OTARI MX 50 and 2 mx 5050's and would really like to get them thoroughly serviced how would i reach out to you to arrange that if possible Thanks
Hello Anthony,
I'm new to your channel - it's great! I found you while searching for any kind of maintenance procedures for the Otari MX5050 BII2. The maintenance on the capstan assembly is perfect! Would you please consider doing a video illustrating how to clean all of the pots and switches? I just bought my MX5050 yesterday and really need to go through and spray deoxit on all of the pots and switches - I'm just not sure how to get to them? I have downloaded the Owner's and Service manuals but haven't found this procedure yet. Thanks for your consideration and the attention to detail and tips. Had I not seen you cleaning the tensioner safety switch contacts on wood, I might have been tempted to use a very fine sandpaper. Much appreciated! Cheers - Luther
Hello Luther! Thanks for your comment, it's appreciated. Yes, the fact is that in the 5050 manual you will not find any procedures related to cleaning or replacing internal electronic components, and usually this is the task of a specialized service center where they know what to do.
Within a month, I plan to shoot at least two or three videos. One will be dedicated to cleaning buttons and potentiometers, that's your request. The second video will be dedicated to the total replacement of Op-Amps, and the third video will be on the complete alignment of the 5050 machine. I would be very happy to make more videos, and more often, but alas, most of the time I have a lot of work. Thank you!
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice i need a video showing how to calibrate this deck
@@jn3750 Calibration videos are in my plans for the next couple of months... I'll do that.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Repro and Rec calibrations with Mrl tapes are highly desired. Thanks
Thanks for the video. The Two new skf replacement is 608 ZZ?
Thank you! Yes it is. These SKF bearings carry the official factory marking 608-2Z, but also carry the alternative marking 608-ZZ (more likely to be from other manufacturers).
Ok Andy I cleaned that switch just like your video. So here’s the issue: Capstan turns freely with power Off. With power ON, half the time it will seize and have to be turned by hand then runs perfectly (On Speed). I pulled the Capstan control board and found a minor burn spot. Changed a 33uF capacitor and that big blue resistor near it. Checked some other caps checked OK. Oiled the capstan a while back. Any ideas?
Hi Steve, sorry for the long answer, in recent months it has been difficult to get free time to come here...
Have you solved the problem with the operation of the motor board? Perhaps somewhere there is a faulty transistor, or something just soldered off.
Hello Anthony,
I've lubricated the capstan and it's dead silent now. I do have a problem with rewinding. I think the brake on the feed reel, left side, is way too hard. I'll try to follow procedure adjusting that. As I understand the brakes are differential, the left brakes harder than the right side. But I can hardly turn the left side (counter clockwise). It's even making a small squeaking sound. I will also try to adjust the distance for the solonoid.
Any good advice for these two things?
Kind regards,
Redfox.
Okay, so I adjusted brake bands and brake plates to spec and it's fine and smooth. And also I adjusted the pinch roller pressure, which was wayyy too hard. Cleaned and lubed parts and it's much more smooth now in operation. Recorded from a cd to a nos Maxell UD-XL and it sound really great.
Kind regards.
I solved my problem which was when the machine was right side up the capstan wouldn’t turn when the take up arm was raised. But when the machine was turned upside down it would work every time. I took apart the capstan carefully using your video as a guide. I noticed two of the sensors on the black curved piece were solid. The third when touched was shaky even though it looked solid. Gluing that down solved my very frustrating problem so Thank You!
I’ve got a question Anthony. Regarding the Capstan Power board. There are two steel angles with two screws each that hold the board in. When you took it apart, the angles faced down and held in the aluminum portion, but when you put it back together the angles faced up holding the green PCB, not the aluminum plate. I believe holding the plate is the correct way,,,Agree?
I congratulate you that the problem was found and you just glued the sensor (although I answered your previous message a couple of minutes ago in an attempt to understand what is happening with the board).
Yes, you are absolutely right and noticed that I put the steel angles upside down at the end of repair, thanks! Apparently, in the process of shooting, I did it automatically, without thinking. Because at that moment, probably, my attention was focused on the framing of the shot in the shoot. True, two hours earlier, my friend came to visit for a while, who took the camera and took a couple of moving shots. But I did everything else myself. And when you do everything alone, repairs and filming, sometimes something is missed.
You really know this deck well. I have an Otari MX5050 B2HD, great shape. Want to have it modded for an Earhart Audio tape stage I have. You located in the States, do service?
Hello, thanks for the feedback. I am based in Russia and have occasional professional analog equipment repairs for international clients. But at the current time, international transport communication in our country has been disrupted. I've repaired a few 5050s, as well as individual sent boards from 5050,.. and we have a couple of machines in our studio too.
Within a month I'm going to make two or three videos, one of them will be about the total replacement of the op amp in the 5050. So if you can't find a local specialist, and you may have some questions for me about a self-upgrade, let me know, maybe I can help with advice.
Hey Anthony that was great! I’ve got an Otari MX-5050. Where are you located? Do you do repairs? Mine needs a tuneup just as you done in the video and it has capstan issues.
Thanks for the question! Yes, I repair and restore mainly analog studio equipment, but I'm in Russia. I have some experience working for clients from other countries (in particular, repairing boards and cards from tape machines, as well as cleaning microphone capsules). But for now, at the current time, the process of international shipment between Russia and Europe (and America) has been suspended. There are a couple of well-known Russian companies that offer courier delivery from other countries, but this can be somewhat more expensive and longer.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thx Anthony yes we are forbidden to do any business at all with the Russian Federation and could be fined. In the 21st Century to be doing Hitler or barbaric type behavior is extremely shameful. Building Empires is and should be a thing of the past. I certainly hope this doesn’t escalate to an international thing (WWIII) or the whole world will be destroyed. Thank God your neighbor Germany turned things around from using death & destruction as a weapon. Be well & take care
Hi is there away to repair the small wire coil in the capstan. One of my is burn
Hi, it usually never happens that these little coils burn out. If possible, take a photo and post a link here.
Beautiful restoration of the motor.
But what kind of transparent glue did you use on the brushes? Name?
I have the same machine, and over the years the tape has grinded grooves in the heads.
I have found new 2 track heads, but do you know where to get the 4-track playback head?
Thanks!
I use B-7000 glue (there is also a similar glue, but black, T-7000). Such glue is generally known, since it is used by craftsmen when replacing displays on smartphones.
The situation with heads can sometimes be a problem, as they wear out during the operation of the tape machine, or machines with already worn heads come to me for repairs…
There are skilled people who do head relapping with their own hands, and I have several times turned to one such specialist for such work. In your country, I think, there are also such persons, and it will be very useful to find them. Of course, you need to look for and learn about them in the area of tape machines users, and a good head man will always have good recommendations.
Yes, and of course, you can still find good Otari heads on Ebay, usually in a whole stack, less often individually. But in this case, you need to be careful when choosing, so as not to buy worn ones.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thanks for the quick response. Does this glue stay sticky, or getting hard as glass?
Another issue....
Is there a "free wheel" function on this machine? It's very useful when threading the tape.
I have been thinking of having a button to activate the solenoid to open the breaks without reel motors running.
@@bertiljreng258 This glue stay slightly sticky and plastic.
This machine does not have a "free wheel" function, and in the Stop position, the reels are fixed with felt brakes. If you leave the reels free, then when threading the tape, a piece of tape will sag from the supply reel, which will not allow you to thread it well with tension.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice - I guess so, but it is tempting tough. :-)
Thanks for your helpful video, I'm currently doing the same on my unit due to intermittent spikes of wow&flutter. I've narrowed it down to either capacitors on the speed board or the arm switch. While my motor runs super silent, your video made me decide to do a total rebuild since I will have all the sections open anyway.
Would you be able to provide a link or (PM me) for the replacement capstan bearings, Please?
Thanks Much,
Jake
Hi Jake, thanks for the feedback (and sorry for the long reply). I used SKF 608-2Z bearings (very good bearings, and they could be quickly ordered in our city, which became the determining factor in the choice).
I wish you success in the repair and restoration, and I hope that everything works out for you. If you have any questions, write.
Двигатель как в комете 120, три обмотки, три датчика положения ротора, и датчик скорости
of the several 5050's I have, one has the dreaded 'black can' capstan motor where the potting epoxy swells-up and strikes/rubs against the housing. Have you dealt with this ?
Thanks.
Wow, unfortunately I have not repaired this type of capstan. It's probably one of the older Otari models (that didn't have an electronic tape counter yet) ?
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice thxx for the rapid reply! Its an 8tr 1/2" deck from '88 WITH digital counter. May I send you a pic? Where to? Many thxx
@@eddisc4205 send please on e-mail: mobile88studios@gmail.com
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice also: @13:13, after cleaning, can a cap be installed across the leads to suppress the spark? What value? Thxx
@@eddisc4205 This is an interesting question, but it is impossible to say for sure that it will reduce sparking. This is not an AC circuit, where arcing on shutdown is mainly from self-induction. There is DC, and self-induction is usually eliminated by blocking diodes and capacitors on the motor control board. If you solder a capacitor in parallel with this switch, then when the contacts are closed, there will most likely be increased sparking. In addition to the fact that start-up transients will occur and the capacitors on the board will be charged, the button contacts will in addition discharge the capacitor soldered to them, and the larger its capacity, the more intense the spark will be. Yes, but at the same time it can be assumed that the sparking when the contacts open (and it is very small when the contacts open) may decrease.
You can experiment with a 220 microfarad capacitor value. But in series with it, you need to turn on a resistor of about 10 ohms to reduce the spark load on the contacts when the capacitor is discharged.
This is unreal, you are a Bodhisattva of R2R
Thanks for the high rating! ❤️😊
Which calibration tape is it? Thanks.
MRL short cal tape, but these tape were made in MRL by special order of one of the well-known tape technicians - Wayne Gunn (unfortunately he is no longer alive...),
we were well acquainted and communicated. If you want the exact number, I can look tomorrow and let you know.
But... if you need an MRL tape, you can write directly to them and request the tape for you, giving your desired parameters: tape width, speed, reference level (nWb/m) and equalization standard (NAB or IEC) of your machine. They have short "minimalistic" tapes that contain the minimum required set of signals: white noise, reference level, and frequencies (10, 16 kHz, as well as 50 and 100 Hz), this is beneficial in terms of dollar/efficiency but if of course you have one or two 2-track recorders and you want buy a MRL tape for non-often periodically align.
what kind of solder paste you use? would you please tell me
Ersa FMKANC32 flux paste
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thank you
I just bought the MX-5050 B2. There are some switches in the back. Could you, please, explain how to setup them? Thank you.
Вадим, вы из России? :)
По кнопкам там ничего сложного, набор стандартный для любой проф машины. Справа налево: 1) переключатель ослабления чувствительности микрофонного входа (либо вообще отключает микрофонный преамп, если не пользуетесь). 2) переключатель референсного потока намагничивания, его положения соответствуют уровням 185-250-320 нановебер/м, 3) переключатель стандартов эквализации (по-нашему, коррекции). 4) собственно уровень выходного сигнала на выходах (если у вас проф сетап, то high; если бытовой, то скорее всего low). Если в знаниях есть некоторые пробелы, тут можно читануть и восполнить основы (это совместная статейка с основателем катушечного форума):
analog.pro/tape_recorders/play_adjustment/play_adjustment.html
Или спрашивайте, если что-то будет не ясно…
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Спасибо большое за ответ. Я из Канады. Трудно найти знающего специалиста. Пока провожу косметический ремонт, провода необходимые купил. Начну подключать, думаю возникнут вопросы. Пока изучу то что вы написали. Да, там еще слева от головок Cue, это для чего? Я в радиотехнике начинающий. А Вы где живете?
@@VadimDolgovArt ну не спеша думаю справитесь, если будут трудности, спрашивайте, никаких проблем. Я из Брянска. В студии у меня периодически трудится один 5050 и широкий MX-80; дома ещё один 5050. С магнитофонами в плане ремонта дружу давно, где-то со школьных лет. Сложилось так, что вначале это было увлечение, как и у многих (переписывали, слушали), позже постепенно затянуло в проф сектор (радио, студии звукозаписи), и ракурс сервиса-ремонта магнитофонов сместился к технике другого плана, а Олимпы-Электроники были забыты как страшный сон 😀
Если вы делаете самостоятельные шаги в профилактике и настройке магнитофона (тем более профессионального), то никуда не деться, оч желательно хотя бы в общих чертах погрузиться в знания в области магнитной записи звука и особенности настройки магнитофонов, взаимосвязей электрических параметров. Нужно иметь измерительное оборудование и иметь понимание магнитофонной метрологии. Если, конечно, стоит задача не просто крутить какие-то старые катушки с антресоли ради забавы, а получить качественный звук на правильно настроенном магнитофоне.
Именно в электронику и схемотехнику вам серьезно вникать не обязательно, достаточно знать/понимать азы хотя бы в общих чертах.
Специалиста в идеале нужно искать также в проф секторе, который в былые времена обслуживал аналоговую технику на радио, ТВ или в студиях звукозаписи. Сами понимаете, не всё можно отремонтировать дистанционно через интернет, дав советы или рекомендации, поэтому наличие спеца очень желательно.
Рычажок Cue в режиме перемотки плавно подводит ленту к головам, благодаря чему можно найти паузу между треками не слух.
И сразу запаситесь оригинальным блоком голов про запас. Ибо сейчас их можно найти в продаже, а что будет лет через 10-15, неизвестно.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Легче самому все изучить, чем найти специалиста. С удовольсрвием погружусь в изучение. Прочитал вашу статью внимательно, вначале все было понятно, под конец уже поплыл :) . Вопрос где найти калибровочную ленту с правильными параметрами и правильные измерительные приборы. А где еще можно с вами пообщаться? Вопросов много. Послал заявку в друзья на Фэйсбуке.
@@VadimDolgovArt пусть не с первого раза, но думаю, в процессе станет понятно :)
Калибровочную ленту можно приобрести в ваших краях - найдите ближайшего дилера MRL (согласно списка www.mrltapes.com/intdlrs.pdf ,
или обратитесь к ним напрямую, сейчас эта компания состоит фактически из нескольких человек, заказов не много, и они обрабатывают их напрямую. Какую выбрать- это зависит от того, как вы будете применять магнитофон (только слушать или же записывать, с какими лентами работать, на какой скорости). Если к примеру, планируете работать на 15ips, записывать с применением новой ленты (sm910, 900, atr), то есть смысл переключить аппарат на IEC EQ, 320 nwb/m ref flux, 15 ips, и соответственно калибровочную ленту заказывать с такими параметрами. Но ленты оч разные по назначению, есть одночастотные, многочастотные, есть и короткие, где на 4 минутном отрезке записан весь джентльменский набор сигналов (и стоят они дешевле). Поэтому по выбору марки надо подумать.
На ФБ увы не могу добавить вас при всём желании, поскольку в связи с известной ситуацией доступ на платформу для пользователей РФ заблокирован. Да и пока мне нет смысла там быть - до этого момента я брал международные заказы по сервису, а сейчас нарушена вся транспортная логистика (ко мне не могут ничего прислать, и я ничего отправить), и денежные переводы также закрыты… а пообщаться с удовольствием, но это лучше пишите на почту - mobile88studios@gmail.com
What was the value of the R23 resistor?
560 Ohm 1 watt
What is the part number of the replacement bearings?
I used SKF Explorer 608-2Z bearings.
Wow.... Anthony - where are you located ?
Russian Federation! )
Здравствуйте!Подскажите пожалуйста c1 Capacitance .Это тот синенький маленький конденсатор В схеме показано как с10 а на плате с1 Хотел уточнить для себя Может быть я ошибаюсь Спасибо большое
Здравствуйте! Если вы имеете в виду синий конденсатор, похожий на каплю, то это танталовый конденсатор. Ёмкость 0.1 uF.
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Спасибо большое!Я не профессионал Просто хотел попробовать свои силы в новом хобби 😀У меня точно такое же темное пятно . Меняю все как у Вас 😀 Вопросов конечно больше чем деталей в магнитофоне😀Еще раз большое спасибо
@@igorsvoyatsky600 не за что )
ну что, Ваше хобби будет весьма увлекательным 😅
Резистор, образовавший потемнение на гетинаксе, я вынес вверх (на его длинных ногах), чтобы он больше не грел плату и не сокращал срок службы новым (заменённым) конденсаторам.
Если будут затруднения, спрашивайте 😊
Thank. Otati fanboy.
Thank you!
Do you service?
Thanks, yes!
I have a 5050bHD2 it has been in storage for many years it turns on i hear the motor inside go on . When i push play it starts rolling and immediately stops im not sure what it is a musician not a tech so this is above my head.
If you hear a noise inside the motor, this is not normal, you need to find a specialist nearby and get him. It is better if it is a pro specialist in the field of analog tape recorders and has a reputation. This is if you want a pro serviced machine for professional use in your studio.
For many musicians, myself included, at one time had to learn electronics in order to repair of some gear in the studio and also create self-made devices ... but this happened during the years of study at school, with all those who tried to make their first recordings )) You can too, even if you are already old enough (20, 30, 40 or more) ... here it is a matter of time and practical meaning. And if you have a friend who knows electronics well, you can restore your 5050 together, since there are no miniature SMD components, and everything is not so complicated that it could be broken the 5050 machine without special knowledge. As a hobby, I think it can be quite normal. The only dangerous moment is the presence of dangerous voltages inside the machine, you need to be on the alert.
Would been nice have a commentary through film, to to turn it into a real documentary
Не плохой аппарат, но всё же немцев уважаю больше
Hi Anthony, nice repair job. Do you have an email that I can contact you?
Hi Three Winds, thanks! My e-mail: mobile88studios@gmail.com
на 2.53 мне стало плохо
silent is better!
Thanks for the comment, I also wanted some silence in this video. Just work.
In addition, the selection of music also delays the editing of the next video and its publication...
My Otari MX5050B2 has crackles and pop noise like this drive.google.com/file/d/1FkPRizuQgdw1KvfTezrBn071r6ODhNOW/view?usp=sharing
Do you know what's causing it? I applied deoxit to volume knob and it drastically reduced it bit didn't eliminate.
A very strange phenomenon. I looked in the audio editor for the waveform of your signal. At the moment when a click is heard, the signal drops out for a short time (0.1 - 0.2 ms). And the drops have exactly the same character in both channels and almost the same shape in all drops.
I would like to ask you a couple of questions to start.
Try connecting headphones to the "Headphones" output, do you also hear those crackles there?
Are these crackles heard on all tapes?
@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thanks for the tip. I found out the problem lies with my audio capture device Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. Time to replace the capacitors on it.
Looks like it's a bad 15ft USB cable. I tried a 6ft USB cable and no noise. I'll get a new 15ft cable.
@@rsuryase It's good that you easily found the culprit this way. While listening your file I assumed problem was the recording host (when I looked at the wave in zoom, I became even more of this thought). 👍👍👍