HUGE thank you for taking the time/effort to make this video! Just bought an 07 Avalon with 200k miles and saw the original line has not been replaced. Time to tackle this asap! Really appreciate you posting the part numbers as a nice bonus.
@Merryfrankster_ is there only one of these lines? I know there's also an oil cooler line that needs to be replaced as well but for some reason when looking to purchase the vvt line I get results for upper and lower lines.
@@tim1569 I know this comment is a bit old but thought I could help - as far as I know there is no lower oil cooler line on the 2007 Avalon specifically (near the radiator), I had the same question and found the answer on a comment on the Car Care Nut channel.
as is usual with all your instructional videos - EXCELLENT! - and most helpful for the DIYer. I had a persistent small drip leak at the lower banjo bolt fitting for the VVT cooler line on the rear of my 2GRFE and replaced the dual washer (gasket) with new (99 cents) and replaced the bolt using one off a donor motor - i could see a few small spots of corrosion on the inside of the bolt flange on the bolt that was leaking that may have been causing an imperfect seal against the gasket. The donor bolt was super clean and smooth like new
I seem to have the same persistent leak at the lower banjo bolt in my 07 RAV4. I did this line replacement about 6 months ago. I was planning on replacing the lower gasket (whose part number is attached) and maybe also the banjo bolt. Any idea on the part number of the banjo bolt?
Thank you, just got done doing this on my daughter's RAV4, everything is easy to see but hard to get to. Took about an hour, and your right, getting the plastic cover off was the hardest part👍
Can you just replace the rubber line? Mine is leaking and the rest of the car is on its way out so I Just need it to work for another month or two. My leak has gotten worse today.
Was a a pain in ass with tight squeeze Lexus es350 to do u need to remove the ps pump out of the way to replace got peace of mind now knowing the oil lines rfully metal
The OEM number you posted says it does not fit 2007 RAV4. It fits 2008 - 2018 models. It is because they still use rubber section oil line for 07? But part for 08 fits 07?
I don't know how many times I have answered the question. THE PART NUMBER I PROVIDED IS THE METAL LINE THAT FITS ALL YEARS AND MODELS OF 2GR-FE. You want to order a different part? Fine. They will sell you another rubber line to replace your rubber line.
The 3.3 is a completely different engine. It is a timing belt engine. It is a higher displacement version of the 3.0 and shares most of the 3.0 features. Those engines have their own set of issues. They are prone to sludging. The entire engine becomes encrusted with sludge from the inside. Poor crankcase ventilation is believed to contribute to the issue by allowing accumulation of moisture and debris in the block. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
IDK about 2012 but earlier rx350 have a belt-driven power steering pump on the rear of the engine. Not sure when/if they went to electric power steering. The pump has to be moved out of the way to get to the rear banjo bolt.
It's a solvent that comes in an aerosol can. Available anywhere you buy auto parts. It dissolves dirt, grime, oily residue, all forms of contamination.
Hi, thanks for including the torque specs, part numbers, and component diagrams! On a 2009 Venza, which should have the all metal line, I'm seeing some oil on that lobe structure and bolt hole where you mentioned a power steering pump would be on some models (Venzas all have electric power steering). The oily area is similar to what is on the engine in your video. A mechanic said the banjo bolt was loose, as you noted too, and tightened it, but I still see some oil there eventually forming a droplet on the downward pointing lobe. Unfortunately accessing that area is pretty difficult. Thoughts about what it could be and how to address it?
This is a very common issue. If tha banjo bolt is leaking, itis not enough to tighten it. You have to replace the washers. Be careful not to overighten the bolt. The torque spec is only about 40lbs.
@@Merryfrankster_ Is there any danger of catastrophic failure? I'm tempted to just monitor the oil level for now. It's not losing any appreciable amount between oil changes. I wonder why the bolt would loosen or the washers would lose their seal on their own. First time I hear this is a common issue. But if it is the issue, I'll be relatively relieved because a dealer inspection stated it could possibly be the dreaded timing chain cover leak. However the oil is only in the areas seen in your video, but less wet. Only problem is that banjo bolt is unfortunately rather difficult to access... or even see.
I got a question, please. I did replace the VVTI line with the metal one. I do remember that I could not insert the union bolt with mesh attached, so I did insert the mesh then tight in the bolt inside. is that an issue do I need to redo this . Thanks a lot
It would be better that you snap the filter onto the end of the bolt before inserting. Maybe by bending the line a little you can make it slip through.
MerryFrankster, your advice and instructions on the VVT were very helpful and clear. Have you ever made a video on changing the spark plugs for the 2GR-FE ? I wondered about a parts list since it involves removing the cowl/wiper motor/intake manifold.
Yes you are correct. The wiper tray and cowl have to come off. It seems intimidating but after you've done it a few times it goes very very quick. Same for the intake manifold. The key thing is with the brackets in the back of the manifold. I think I have a video coming up on that.
Great video, was looking at buying a 06-07 Avalon and researched the common issues with them, I don't understand why the line isn't completely metal, very stupid and poor design, way to go Toyota, anyway I thought to use a piece of transmission hose and 4 "real hose clamps" 2 on each side, those squeeze clamps are crap, thanks for your time and parts description, I'll just buy the metal line...
Thank you very much for your video and listing the parts. I just ordered them for my 2007 Avalon, I am hoping that the power steering pump is not too hard to deal with. I am an avid DYIer but this Avalon looks like everything is going to be a bit of a challenge. I moved up from Buicks so I hope its worth the trouble. Driving the car is so nice. Not sure I could go back. Thanks,
Normally the power steering pump is not too much trouble. Sometimes it is just as easy asa can be. But you might get unlucky. Keep your fingers crossed.
I replaced that line after buying my 06vRav4 v6 a few years ago. But another question, our 2010 toyota venza v6 just threw a check engine/vsc light and i pulled a p0015 code for " B camshaft position timing over retarded bank 1". It seems that this could possibly be the Oil Control Valve solenoid beneath the intake manifold, firewall side. Can anyone confirm and does the intake manifold have to be removed to replace the solenoid? Hurt my back recently and not looking forward to that much leaning over the engine. Thanks!
You can see where the solenoids are, they are close to the timing cover. The B solenoid refers to the exhaust side, that you can possibly access and remove with the manifold staying in place. The solenoid is held in place by just one M6 bolt. If you unclip the harness connector, the solenoid should slide right out with a little bit of prying. It's worth a try anyway. I would also change the exhaust camshaft position sensor, just for good measure.
Completely different engine. Lots more complexity with the high pressure fuel system and direct injection plus port injection. I am not as familiar with the 2GR-FSE as I am with the 2GR-FE, so I can't give you any specifics on issues or reliability.
On the gasket part number 16017, do you need two of those? I see you only have 1 listed in your cart. Or do we use the double washer (gasket) on both ends? I’m confused on this part of the procedure and ordering parts. Thx.
you can use any pair of 12mm copper washers that you want, even from the hardware store, there is nothing magical about how washers work on a banjo bolt. You can use the double washer on both ends, or you can use single washers on both ends, or you can mix it up. I repeat there is absolutely nothing special about the washers - the double washer just makes it easier to install in a hard to reach location.
@@Merryfrankster_ thank you so much for this information. New subscriber and I’m enjoying your videos. We bought our son an 08 Lexus ES350. The oil line was replaced at the dealership with the “upgraded” line that still has the rubber elbow. This was replaced at around 11k miles and the car has 109k miles now. I would like to upgrade to the all metal line for peace of mind. Again, thank you for responding and thanks for the information.
@@Brian-fo8sh Just make sure that you get the bolts to the correct torque. I can't recall exactly but I think I mention it in the video. Is it 49ft-lbs? You don't want these too tight, or too loose - they have to be just right.
@@Merryfrankster_ thank you so much. I literally just left the Toyota dealership and they said parts and labor is 375 out the door. Now, I’m trying to figure out if I should just do it or give it to them. I’m most concerned about wrestling that p/s pump.
Around every 6 months on my 2020 Toyota Camry , I power wash the engine and let dry . I then liberally spray 303 Protectant all over the engine compartment and let it soak in . The purpose is to lessen the plastic and rubber parts from drying out and cracking , including the plastic intake manifold .
The plastic and rubber pieces that crack and break the most frequently are the plastic lock tabs on the electrical connectors. Also any evap and emissions hoses. The intake manifold.... not so much.
Pretty sure it's 2009 and earlier, but why don't you take a look with your own two eyes and see what you got. Watch my video for '"how to check the vvt line" made expressly for people who don't know an oil line from a hole in the ground.
@Merryfrankster_ During heat summer days, I was running around normally and I was idling to keep Cool with A/C On and I thought maybe that could ben results of crack head gasket Or possibly oil Cooler I have freind his service manager for my dealer I'm going take it there one the Hurricane is out of here that is only thing that could cause it I check oil last week on Sunday and everything was Fine now notice red antifreeze mixing with oil its strange because I hardly drive this car mostly parked drive locally around town daily driver mint condition like new slow driver not hard on motor I'm extra nice to motor, car not sure about oil Cooler I hope that's least of worries now hope I'm not going be Dock hiffty service invoice 😏
It’s hard to tell how it is inside the actual 07 highlander I have I just seen a glimpse of a post on Google looking for the place of the filter screen you happen to show and am glad I seen this for a better protected stronger vehicle God Bless
I have a 2010 Lexus ES 350, so I am curious if I have the same hose that needs to be upgraded to a metal hose. I have the same plastic cover, so I can't see if it's a metal or rubber line thank you.
I have made a new video that tells you exactly how to check this line. The video is just for looking at the line to see if it is rubber or metal. Lots of people are in your situation and don't know where to look. Please look for the video in my recent videos.
There is no need to drop the engine for this procedure. Engine was shown in the video to allow better viewing. This seems to confuse some people. Anyway. Repair can be done easily with engine in car. Estimate: Parts $30. Labor: vehicles with p/s pump 2 hours. vehicles wihtout pump 1 hour. Your local labor rate may vary.
I have a '12 Highlander and noticed a leak at the lower bolt. If my vehicle has a rubber line you recommend replacing w/ the all metal one? I need to verify which one I have. TIA
Your vehicle should have an all-metal line from factory. It is common for the banjo bolts to leak. Get some new washers and torque them down to 45 ft-lbs.
@@Merryfrankster_ I checked last night and looks to be so. There’s a black metal or plastic cover on top of the line so couldn’t see most of it, but I’m sure you’re correct and know more about these than me. Top bolt is dry, will replace the washers on the lower banjo and keep an eye on it. Thank you.
Toyota Sienna has a P/S pump. You must move it out of the way to reach the rear banjo fitting. All other steps are exactly the same. Part numbers for metal line and washers are exactly the same.
If you check visually using your own two eyes you will see whether your car has a rubber-segment vvt line or a all-metal line. If you are not able to make this check visually, you will probably not be able to read the TSB.
@@K8TieEV93 metal, best I can tell they corrected the issue on the 2009 Highlander there is another oil cooler line with the same issue that does affect the 2009 and others
Interesting to see your 2012 rx350 has the rubber elbow on the line but my '10 rx350 does not have that when I looked at it without removing the plastic cover.
Can we install those double washers on BOTH ends ❓❓, as we have two (2007 Toyota Sienna) and thank you kindly for this updated video. I'm sure you're getting sick of explaining this, over n over, but at least now, YOU'RE A ROCKSTAR 💥, and you're also, ALL WE GOT 💥 Thanks, Jeff
Yes there is actually. After doing some research it appears the bank 2 VVT oil line may be all metal, because you don’t see any guides or videos on replacing that one.
2007 RX350 (FWD) - Lexus dealership told me the correct part number that I need is.... 15707-31030.....their part is $97 and Toyota part is $33.50 (15772-31030) Does anyone know if there is a difference between these 2 parts? Other than the dollar amount of $63.18 ??
@@Merryfrankster_ Sorry for asking....just doing it on my own. The dealership told me they weren't the same because it's a Lexus. And, when I've tried to order the Toyota part # 15772-31030 all the web site vendors required a VIN# and they then stop the order process saying the part won't fit my VIN#. But, thank you for your video and for clarifying.....once again!
@@Merryfrankster_ Well, that was Fun! New washers/new line installed. It was challenging removing the power steering (hydraulic) pump and it's lines which also required new crush washer for high pressure line. Also, had to disconnect both front sway bar links to allow moving the sway bar for access. Good time for new serpentine belt too. Now, I don't know what to do with the old line.....throw it out, or, mount it on the wall like a deer head trophy mount!!!!
HUGE thank you for taking the time/effort to make this video! Just bought an 07 Avalon with 200k miles and saw the original line has not been replaced. Time to tackle this asap! Really appreciate you posting the part numbers as a nice bonus.
Thank you for watching.
@Merryfrankster_ is there only one of these lines? I know there's also an oil cooler line that needs to be replaced as well but for some reason when looking to purchase the vvt line I get results for upper and lower lines.
@@tim1569 I know this comment is a bit old but thought I could help - as far as I know there is no lower oil cooler line on the 2007 Avalon specifically (near the radiator), I had the same question and found the answer on a comment on the Car Care Nut channel.
as is usual with all your instructional videos - EXCELLENT! - and most helpful for the DIYer. I had a persistent small drip leak at the lower banjo bolt fitting for the VVT cooler line on the rear of my 2GRFE and replaced the dual washer (gasket) with new (99 cents) and replaced the bolt using one off a donor motor - i could see a few small spots of corrosion on the inside of the bolt flange on the bolt that was leaking that may have been causing an imperfect seal against the gasket. The donor bolt was super clean and smooth like new
Glad it worked out! Thanks for watching.
I seem to have the same persistent leak at the lower banjo bolt in my 07 RAV4. I did this line replacement about 6 months ago. I was planning on replacing the lower gasket (whose part number is attached) and maybe also the banjo bolt. Any idea on the part number of the banjo bolt?
Thanks for continuing to make high quality videos on important topics. We know it takes time.
So nice of you
Thank you, just got done doing this on my daughter's RAV4, everything is easy to see but hard to get to. Took about an hour, and your right, getting the plastic cover off was the hardest part👍
Glad it worked out
Can you just replace the rubber line? Mine is leaking and the rest of the car is on its way out so I Just need it to work for another month or two. My leak has gotten worse today.
Sure you can do that but HURRY or you will be sol.
48 Ft/Lbs for the banjo bolts. I'm glad I was able to find this video again.
Was a a pain in ass with tight squeeze Lexus es350 to do u need to remove the ps pump out of the way to replace got peace of mind now knowing the oil lines rfully metal
Yes you are absolutely right, on cars with a PS pump this is a royal pITA. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
Thank you for stating that they are M6 bolts with 10mm head instead of calling them 10mm bolts!
thank you for watching and for commenting.
The OEM number you posted says it does not fit 2007 RAV4. It fits 2008 - 2018 models. It is because they still use rubber section oil line for 07? But part for 08 fits 07?
I don't know how many times I have answered the question. THE PART NUMBER I PROVIDED IS THE METAL LINE THAT FITS ALL YEARS AND MODELS OF 2GR-FE. You want to order a different part? Fine. They will sell you another rubber line to replace your rubber line.
Does the 05 Highlander with the 3.3 have the same problems? Was there a dealer recall on these
The 3.3 is a completely different engine. It is a timing belt engine. It is a higher displacement version of the 3.0 and shares most of the 3.0 features. Those engines have their own set of issues. They are prone to sludging. The entire engine becomes encrusted with sludge from the inside. Poor crankcase ventilation is believed to contribute to the issue by allowing accumulation of moisture and debris in the block. Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Does the oil have to be drained before I do this because I just did an oil change. Also this is the same 3.5L in the 2007 RX-350 right?
Less than a cupful comes out. No need to drain the oil. This is the exact same part in every 2gr-fe including the rx350.
Thank you so much for the parts numbers And torque specs you're the best 👌🏽
No problem 👍
30$ pipe and stuff, at least 500$ handjob XD. btw, is like this for a rx350 2012? thanks for the video.Cheers!
IDK about 2012 but earlier rx350 have a belt-driven power steering pump on the rear of the engine. Not sure when/if they went to electric power steering. The pump has to be moved out of the way to get to the rear banjo bolt.
IS THAT THE BACK OF THE ENGINE OR FRONT
Did you say clean it with a brake cleaner? What is brake cleaner?
It's a solvent that comes in an aerosol can. Available anywhere you buy auto parts. It dissolves dirt, grime, oily residue, all forms of contamination.
Hi, thanks for including the torque specs, part numbers, and component diagrams!
On a 2009 Venza, which should have the all metal line, I'm seeing some oil on that lobe structure and bolt hole where you mentioned a power steering pump would be on some models (Venzas all have electric power steering). The oily area is similar to what is on the engine in your video. A mechanic said the banjo bolt was loose, as you noted too, and tightened it, but I still see some oil there eventually forming a droplet on the downward pointing lobe. Unfortunately accessing that area is pretty difficult. Thoughts about what it could be and how to address it?
This is a very common issue. If tha banjo bolt is leaking, itis not enough to tighten it. You have to replace the washers. Be careful not to overighten the bolt. The torque spec is only about 40lbs.
@@Merryfrankster_ Is there any danger of catastrophic failure? I'm tempted to just monitor the oil level for now. It's not losing any appreciable amount between oil changes.
I wonder why the bolt would loosen or the washers would lose their seal on their own. First time I hear this is a common issue. But if it is the issue, I'll be relatively relieved because a dealer inspection stated it could possibly be the dreaded timing chain cover leak. However the oil is only in the areas seen in your video, but less wet.
Only problem is that banjo bolt is unfortunately rather difficult to access... or even see.
@@fizout On the banjo bolt fitting, normally, there is no danger of catastrophic failure.
@@fizout Believe me the rear banjo bolt leakage is very common. Stealer inspection is never to be trusted.
@@Merryfrankster_ Thanks so much!
I got a question, please. I did replace the VVTI line with the metal one. I do remember that I could not insert the union bolt with mesh attached, so I did insert the mesh then tight in the bolt inside. is that an issue do I need to redo this . Thanks a lot
It would be better that you snap the filter onto the end of the bolt before inserting. Maybe by bending the line a little you can make it slip through.
We can’t do this job without taking out the engine huh?? 08 Highlander.
Absolutely you can do this without taking out the engine. LIKE I SAID IN THE VIDEO the engine on the stand is just so you can see things better.
Try look at some of the other videos I made about this. Search for "vvt" on my channel.
MerryFrankster, your advice and instructions on the VVT were very helpful and clear. Have you ever made a video on changing the spark plugs for the 2GR-FE ? I wondered about a parts list since it involves removing the cowl/wiper motor/intake manifold.
Yes you are correct. The wiper tray and cowl have to come off. It seems intimidating but after you've done it a few times it goes very very quick. Same for the intake manifold. The key thing is with the brackets in the back of the manifold. I think I have a video coming up on that.
Great video, was looking at buying a 06-07 Avalon and researched the common issues with them, I don't understand why the line isn't completely metal, very stupid and poor design, way to go Toyota, anyway I thought to use a piece of transmission hose and 4 "real hose clamps" 2 on each side, those squeeze clamps are crap, thanks for your time and parts description, I'll just buy the metal line...
Probably the thinking was that an all metal line is susceptible to vibration metal fatigue and could crack, so a rubber line was preferred.
Thank you very much for your video and listing the parts. I just ordered them for my 2007 Avalon, I am hoping that the power steering pump is not too hard to deal with. I am an avid DYIer but this Avalon looks like everything is going to be a bit of a challenge. I moved up from Buicks so I hope its worth the trouble. Driving the car is so nice. Not sure I could go back. Thanks,
Normally the power steering pump is not too much trouble. Sometimes it is just as easy asa can be. But you might get unlucky. Keep your fingers crossed.
I replaced that line after buying my 06vRav4 v6 a few years ago.
But another question, our 2010 toyota venza v6 just threw a check engine/vsc light and i pulled a p0015 code for " B camshaft position timing over retarded bank 1".
It seems that this could possibly be the Oil Control Valve solenoid beneath the intake manifold, firewall side. Can anyone confirm and does the intake manifold have to be removed to replace the solenoid? Hurt my back recently and not looking forward to that much leaning over the engine. Thanks!
You can see where the solenoids are, they are close to the timing cover. The B solenoid refers to the exhaust side, that you can possibly access and remove with the manifold staying in place. The solenoid is held in place by just one M6 bolt. If you unclip the harness connector, the solenoid should slide right out with a little bit of prying. It's worth a try anyway. I would also change the exhaust camshaft position sensor, just for good measure.
Of course amazon says part don't fit my vehicle and a few other sites.
05 avalon 3.5
I'm going to have to trust you frank.
I believe:)
This is not rocket science.
I wanted to ask you your thoughts on the 2GRFSE. We are looking at a 2017 IS300 with the 3.5 (2GRFSE). Thanks.
Completely different engine. Lots more complexity with the high pressure fuel system and direct injection plus port injection. I am not as familiar with the 2GR-FSE as I am with the 2GR-FE, so I can't give you any specifics on issues or reliability.
On the gasket part number 16017, do you need two of those? I see you only have 1 listed in your cart. Or do we use the double washer (gasket) on both ends? I’m confused on this part of the procedure and ordering parts. Thx.
you can use any pair of 12mm copper washers that you want, even from the hardware store, there is nothing magical about how washers work on a banjo bolt. You can use the double washer on both ends, or you can use single washers on both ends, or you can mix it up. I repeat there is absolutely nothing special about the washers - the double washer just makes it easier to install in a hard to reach location.
@@Merryfrankster_ thank you so much for this information. New subscriber and I’m enjoying your videos. We bought our son an 08 Lexus ES350. The oil line was replaced at the dealership with the “upgraded” line that still has the rubber elbow. This was replaced at around 11k miles and the car has 109k miles now. I would like to upgrade to the all metal line for peace of mind. Again, thank you for responding and thanks for the information.
@@Brian-fo8sh Thank you for watching and for commenting.
@@Brian-fo8sh Just make sure that you get the bolts to the correct torque. I can't recall exactly but I think I mention it in the video. Is it 49ft-lbs? You don't want these too tight, or too loose - they have to be just right.
@@Merryfrankster_ thank you so much. I literally just left the Toyota dealership and they said parts and labor is 375 out the door. Now, I’m trying to figure out if I should just do it or give it to them. I’m most concerned about wrestling that p/s pump.
My 2010 Rav4 has the 4 cylinder VVTI engine. Does this oil line also need to be replaced or is it just for the V6 version of the VVTI?
Nope, this is only for the V6.
Is there anything you have to do after it's installed? EG: bleed air out, or reset the system to be pressurized correctly.
Nope. Install it and run.
I just picked up an 09 350, just curious where's your shop location? website?
Great stuff
Kahului, HI (Maui).
Thank you for the video. It was very clear and very helpful. I will tackle this project later, after I have mustered enough courage. Thank you again.
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Around every 6 months on my 2020 Toyota Camry , I power wash the engine and let dry . I then liberally spray 303 Protectant all over the engine compartment and let it soak in . The purpose is to lessen the plastic and rubber parts from drying out and cracking , including the plastic intake manifold .
The plastic and rubber pieces that crack and break the most frequently are the plastic lock tabs on the electrical connectors. Also any evap and emissions hoses. The intake manifold.... not so much.
@@Merryfrankster_ ok , keeps them looking new
What years where affected for an ES350 and an RX350
Pretty sure it's 2009 and earlier, but why don't you take a look with your own two eyes and see what you got. Watch my video for '"how to check the vvt line" made expressly for people who don't know an oil line from a hole in the ground.
Hello Frank, I just noticed I'm Lousin coolant invto oil with 100.000 soft miles 2011 sienna in excellent condition what im I experiencing.
Possibly it's a head gasket issue or it's an issue in the oil cooler if your car has one.
@Merryfrankster_ During heat summer days, I was running around normally and I was idling to keep Cool with A/C On and I thought maybe that could ben results of crack head gasket Or possibly oil Cooler I have freind his service manager for my dealer I'm going take it there one the Hurricane is out of here that is only thing that could cause it I check oil last week on Sunday and everything was Fine now notice red antifreeze mixing with oil its strange because I hardly drive this car mostly parked drive locally around town daily driver mint condition like new slow driver not hard on motor I'm extra nice to motor, car not sure about oil Cooler I hope that's least of worries now hope I'm not going be Dock hiffty service invoice 😏
It’s hard to tell how it is inside the actual 07 highlander I have I just seen a glimpse of a post on Google looking for the place of the filter screen you happen to show and am glad I seen this for a better protected stronger vehicle God Bless
Thank you for watchcing and for commenting.
I have a 2010 Lexus ES 350, so I am curious if I have the same hose that needs to be upgraded to a metal hose. I have the same plastic cover, so I can't see if it's a metal or rubber line thank you.
I have made a new video that tells you exactly how to check this line. The video is just for looking at the line to see if it is rubber or metal. Lots of people are in your situation and don't know where to look. Please look for the video in my recent videos.
ruclips.net/video/f3RfreOyz80/видео.html
How you get a torque wrench to tighten to 46 ft lbs botton banjo bolt?
Very tough to do. Have tried it, and given up. Not really possible to fit it in and get the angles. Go by feel on this one.
What is the procedure or estimate to do this repair without dropping the engine? Thanks!😊
There is no need to drop the engine for this procedure. Engine was shown in the video to allow better viewing. This seems to confuse some people. Anyway. Repair can be done easily with engine in car. Estimate: Parts $30. Labor: vehicles with p/s pump 2 hours. vehicles wihtout pump 1 hour. Your local labor rate may vary.
Is this also same on 2007 toyota sienna 3.5
yes, same
I have a '12 Highlander and noticed a leak at the lower bolt. If my vehicle has a rubber line you recommend replacing w/ the all metal one? I need to verify which one I have. TIA
Your vehicle should have an all-metal line from factory. It is common for the banjo bolts to leak. Get some new washers and torque them down to 45 ft-lbs.
@@Merryfrankster_ I checked last night and looks to be so. There’s a black metal or plastic cover on top of the line so couldn’t see most of it, but I’m sure you’re correct and know more about these than me. Top bolt is dry, will replace the washers on the lower banjo and keep an eye on it. Thank you.
Can it be change without pulling the whole engine out?
Yes absolutely. Just using the engine to show you where the line is because you cannot see it clearly with the engine in the car.
Is this part number the same on 2.5 V6 ?
Sorry, don;t know, but you can look it up in online parts catalog, for example, parts.lakelandtoyota.com
Are the steps the same for 2008 Toyota Sienna?
Toyota Sienna has a P/S pump. You must move it out of the way to reach the rear banjo fitting. All other steps are exactly the same. Part numbers for metal line and washers are exactly the same.
Socket sizes and torque specs?!? The THOROUGHNESS of your video is commendable. Bravo Sir!
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Will this also work on the 2GR-FSE?
I don't know. Have not checked. Don't even know whether it is needed on the FSE or not.
Would this affect a 2009 Highlander with the 2GR-FE? If so do you have the TSB number?
If you check visually using your own two eyes you will see whether your car has a rubber-segment vvt line or a all-metal line. If you are not able to make this check visually, you will probably not be able to read the TSB.
@@Merryfrankster_ couple of reasons why I’m unable to check at this time, my apologies for disturbing you
@@bernardshaw7585 did it end up having the rubber line or the metal one?
@@K8TieEV93 metal, best I can tell they corrected the issue on the 2009 Highlander there is another oil cooler line with the same issue that does affect the 2009 and others
Thanks for the info mine is leaking 2012 rx350. Caught this leak on a tire rotation.
It seems to me your car should have an all metal oil line from factory.
Interesting to see your 2012 rx350 has the rubber elbow on the line but my '10 rx350 does not have that when I looked at it without removing the plastic cover.
Excellent job. Thank you.
Thank you for watching.
Can we install those double washers on BOTH ends ❓❓, as we have two (2007 Toyota Sienna) and thank you kindly for this updated video. I'm sure you're getting sick of explaining this, over n over, but at least now, YOU'RE A ROCKSTAR 💥, and you're also, ALL WE GOT 💥 Thanks, Jeff
Yes, of course, the double washer works for both ends of the line.
Great video.
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video, your explanation and providing a parts list. Great video. Thank you so much!😊
thank you so much, I appreciate it.
Is there one on the other cyl head ?
No.
Thanks if I lived in your country I would send you some $$$ for your advice. Come on people he deserves it send $$$ honest advice is hard to find 👍
Yes there is actually. After doing some research it appears the bank 2 VVT oil line may be all metal, because you don’t see any guides or videos on replacing that one.
@@austinmerrival927 yes of course there is a vvt line on the other cylinder head. But it does not need replacement.
@@Merryfrankster_ My question is though why only the oil line on bank 1 is faulty? They always made the all metal pipe for the bank 2 oil line?
2007 RX350 (FWD) - Lexus dealership told me the correct part number that I need is....
15707-31030.....their part is $97 and Toyota part is $33.50 (15772-31030)
Does anyone know if there is a difference between these 2 parts? Other than the dollar amount of $63.18 ??
I am blue in the face from repeating this. They are all the same.
@@Merryfrankster_ Sorry for asking....just doing it on my own. The dealership told me they weren't the same because it's a Lexus. And, when I've tried to order the Toyota part # 15772-31030 all the web site vendors required a VIN# and they then stop the order process saying the part won't fit my VIN#.
But, thank you for your video and for clarifying.....once again!
@@umillj enter the part number and place the order here. VIn is optional. parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/
@@umillj Don't forget to order the washers. I can't remember which video I have listed all the part numbers.
@@Merryfrankster_ Well, that was Fun! New washers/new line installed. It was challenging removing the power steering (hydraulic) pump and it's lines which also required new crush washer for high pressure line. Also, had to disconnect both front sway bar links to allow moving the sway bar for access. Good time for new serpentine belt too. Now, I don't know what to do with the old line.....throw it out, or, mount it on the wall like a deer head trophy mount!!!!