I was in Romania JUNE 2018 they still use a Sythe on the deep areas Carpathian mountains. Farming on steep hillside requires handwork for haystacks and modern tractors fail to plow and horses turn soils in springtime where no modern man dares to tread. Cell phones are a novelty and the old ways still prevail harsh long winters.
@@Dreyno Have you ever used a scythe? I have done it every summer from 13 years old to 20 when I came to US. Every summer for 2 weeks with my grand father we would wake up at 5 AM to 7 PM for 2 weeks. Now not sure with that scythe and his technique how many hours he would last but what I see here looks good. We used totally different handles. I do not like this type of scythe.
I can't believe I just watched you mow...... oddly soothing and pleasant..... I have to do this more often.... powering down without going stir crazy...... nailed it! 5 stars buddy!
Watching an American Scythe in action is intriguing. Especially after discovering my 9th Great Grandfather Joseph Jenckes Sr. was the one that created this elegant tool out of the crude and inefficient English scythes of the time. He was quite the remarkable fellow.
Joseph Jenckes made several notable inventions that were arguably the first steps of the American scythe's development and delineation from the English scythe. You will find sources that claim that he invented the modern curved snath, but my research suggests that this was only partly true, and that while the details of his original invention are lost, the innovation he made was the primary arch of the snath at the right hand, while Silas Lamson invented the further recurve bend of the neck of the snath. Loop bolt fasteners were invented by Pinckney Frost, while the twist-to-tighten nib was developed by Joseph and Erasmus S. Clapp. Notably, Jenckes also invented a method of welding an iron bar to the back of scythe blades to stiffen them, but it is unclear if this was the origin of the V-shaped stiffening rib along the back of American blades or not.
Most often they're found with the blade in extremely rough condition, and the tang angle not set. The blade needs to be considerably more thin and keen than most folks are accustomed to even with tools like knives, and they usually need a liberal application of elbow grease to get them functioning properly. When the snaths are properly slimmed down and the blades tuned up, they'll mow with the best of them.
I got a bush scythe from an elderly friend here in Ontario Canada. I'm surprised how well it works for trail clearing. Cuts sapling up to 3/4" and berry bushes are a breeze. I cleaned the rust with a flap sanding disc on the grinder and final sharpen with a file. It has a fat aluminum handle ( 1 1/2" D ) and the grip nuts need to be worked loose so I can position and properly tighten them. The blade doesn't seem to lay flat enough relative to the ground. Encouraged to buy a proper set-up but I'll see if I can tweak this one for now. I used a scythe for hay as a youngster and it sure is fun digging into this topic.
your technique is something to strive for. Just got my aluminum snath today to go with my american scythe and you definitely make it look easy. I have to keep practicing.
Just have to have everything tuned up right and then use the right movements. When done right, it *is* easy, but getting all of those factors lined up right is the part most folks have to troubleshoot! One of the biggest common issues is simply not having the edge thin and crisp enough, or with enough of a tooth to the scratch pattern. An edge that will easily slice flesh may not be keen enough for cutting grass.
That is a nice sharp scythe. I have an Austrian scythe and I love it but I love the look of an American scythe, especially if it is wooden. He didn't miss a single blade of grass.
I own a bunch of European style scythes of various makes to stay in practice with them but much prefer the American style. It's just hard to beat the crisp edge that can be easily obtained and how long it lasts. Having a bit of mass on the end of the snath helps make for a smooth ride to the cut, too, with less strain on the muscles.
@@FortyTwoBlades that's interesting. So the heavier blade makes for easier work. I'm in the market for a garden blade next and a new anvil. I have the jig type for beginners. I love mowing with a scythe so I can listen to my headphones etc.
Heyalth Or we've made such leaps and bounds in technology that we don't need scythes anymore, and thus only use them for fun. I think that sounds about right.
Check our website for maintenance equipment and our links and reading section for the instructional material we have on our blog! We have detailed instructions for beginners. byxco.com/ site.baryonyxknife.com/blog/?p=6
Absolutely! Though other global styles, when done well, are ergonomic as well, the American sort is one of the few snath styles that allow for altering the rotation of the grips around the shaft of the snath, which allows for very fine adjustment!
With either style one shouldn't have to bend over more than the simple tilt at the waist to set one's rate of advance. But I definitely prefer the curved American snath.
Ok i have to walk in this I work for illuminati and that is clearly a fucking alien you fucking Idiots and now that I told you this I have to put yall down.
Looks like you have that thing tuned up pretty well. I gave up on American blades and snaths a long time ago. I never could get the handles set up comfortably and they were always moving around. Had to put pieces of leather and cardboard and stuff under there to try to keep them in place, but it never seemed to work. The aluminum is light, but the wood are quite heavy. The last handle I made was straight, but I need to make another that fits me better. Still, it seems far better than any American style I've tried before. I bookmarked your site, will check out your American pattern scythe stuff later.
You can shave wooden ones down to appropriate weight. I consider a good wooden snath for general purpose mowing as weighing no more than 2lb 12oz including all hardware. If your nibs weren't gripping properly then the bands needed tuning so they could clamp properly. See this video on how to do it: ruclips.net/video/DpwfQe5EK58/видео.html Note that in that video I use a larger number of lighter blows than I normally do, as I'm trying more carefully to preserve the round shape of the band. I usually use a heavy cross-pein hammer on my conventional anvil to get the band down to rough size, then true it up on the blowhorn anvil. You can improvise various methods of attaining the same result, as you're not likely to have such an anvil available to you. When doing these using my usual method it takes only about 2 minutes but me to completely reshape the band to the proper size and shape.
It makes sense I suppose that modern wood snaths are overly thick just like a lot of axe handles are now. Still it would seem that quite a lot more thickness would be required for a curved wooden snaths to retain shape over time. I've seen a lot of old wooden snaths and don't recall any that were what I'd call light. Given that the blades are also heavier by quite a lot the traditional American scythe would necessarily seem a lot heavier. I know the Vidos seems to think that lighter is better, pretty much as light as you can make them as far as I can tell. I know Peter told me I wouldn't realize the full potential of the scythe until I got into a very light tool. Do you think there is any advantage to the extra weight, or what's your take on that? feel free to point me to something you've written. I haven't read through your site yet. Looks awesome though. I have a mandrel I made for the hardy hole from an axel for that sort of thing, but got rid of American snaths a while ago. I still see them quite a bit though.
To start off, disregard what the Vidos say when it comes to American scythes. They have little to no knowledge of them and how they work. :) Lighter scythes are easier to set in motion, but are also more easily stopped by the vegetation you're cutting. A heavier unit provides a flywheel effect that is useful in heavier growth. As most of the work in using a scythe is actually in carrying the weight of the cut material through the swath, the load is highest at the end of the stroke. With light scythes--especially European ones--this is very noticeable, and you end up with a sharp spike in required energy input at the end of the stroke that will beat you up quickly in dense growth unless you slow to a snail's pace. With a heavier scythe initial input is stored as inertia that is released at the end of the stroke. This levels out the required energy input across the stroke, increasing it at the start but lowering it at the end, and this helps keep you in the aerobic zone. I've put together American scythes with wooden snaths that only weight 4lb 4oz in total, including the 30" grass blade. That's lighter than just the snath of a Scythe Supply scythe.
we'll I'd certainly thought of the inertia factor in both cases, but that's something that can't be assessed on theory alone. You're going to have me looking for American scythes to try it out myself :) I've passed up piles of them through the years. Most of the wood handles were seriously ponderous things to put it mildly. You and Peter have very similar approaches to tools and to understanding and explaining things. He's also brilliant and ultimately seeks the truth. Everybody is surely wrong about something or has a limited perspective, in which we have to include ourselves if we are going to sidestep the trap of building constructs on misassumptions. That may be the ultimate lesson in truth seeking. You guys should be allies (not to be confused with being in agreement :).
We're on friendly terms with one another, even if we butt heads often. That being said, I'd say he seeks authority rather than seeking truth, in the strictest sense. He enjoys being considered the global scythe guru, despite his outward modesty regarding it. He holds many pseudo-scientific and New Age mystic beliefs, such as peening somehow causing electromagnetic mumbojumbo in the edge of blades, when blows from a hammer will actually demagnetize steel. I have much to write on the technical aspects of how scythes of all types function, and what strengths and weaknesses various global styles have from an engineering perspective, but haven't had time to get them all down yet, especially as they require a lot of diagrams to make sense to a person reading from afar. Ultimately a good scythe is a good scythe, regardless of style. Peter has done much to popularize scything in the modern era, and his approach IS one that works, but so do many others. I have and use European scythes, but overwhelmingly prefer a well-tuned American. Just bear in mind that if you pick up a vintage one it will need a LOT of work to restore it to ready-to-mow condition.
I recently bought an Austrian style scythe and I'm running into issues cutting my lawn. Video after video I see of scything a lawn and you're all cutting through it like butter, but even working on my form and trying to make sure the blade is properly angled, etc; and it's not really having the same result. My best cuts, keeping the blade to the ground, so far still leave about 4" of grass when my preferred length to aim for is about 2".
It's very possible that your geometry isn't thin enough, that your edge is smooth and polished rather than toothy, is insufficiently crisp and has a burr or wire edge on it, or that your stroke style is a poor match for the curves of your particular blade. There's lots of possible contributing factors, but those are the most likely culprits based on your description.
@@FortyTwoBlades The model I have was brought from Lee Valley and the blade is the "PC501 - Scythe Blade" on their site. It's a 29” blade. The grasses that I'm dealing with are St Augustine and Bermuda. Hopefully this info can narrow it down a little.
Wood is able to be made more robust than aluminum, and so is better for tackling heavy resistant growth like in heavy weed and bush work. Aluminum snaths are able to be lighter for a given requisite rigidity due to being hollow, and so excel for use in all less strenuous mowing (which 95% of my mowing is comprised of.)
I want to buy one this for some rice farmer in my hometown. Theyre still bending down on their back to cut down the rice plant with a sickle , this will speed things up.
In the harvesting of grains, the stalks need to be kept in alignment, which is a given with sickles. For a scythe to harvest grains it needs a cradle added to catch the cut stalks and hold them together. You can see the technique of using a grain cradle in this old stock film, although he's harvesting oats. www.criticalpast.com/video/65675066806_wheat-field_cutting-wheat_binding-shocks_stalks-of-wheat_cutting-with-hand-scythe
I see the same design in the "Scythe Project in India 2016" I just watched on youtube. I want to do the same thing for Vietnam. Scythe is only in Western culture, most people in Asia dont know about it.
They're wonderful tools, and it's interesting how their use remained mostly confined to Europe, North America, and Australia, other than a few other isolated regions.
Hi Enso...you can visit us anytime you want in India...the scythe project is in full swing in India and will soon expand to Bangladesh, Thailand, Pakistan and Nepal...We would love to help you do the same for Vietnam
I saw a video of a guy that does this for hire, and he never lifts the blade from the ground when he's mowing. He even says you don't lift the blade...drag it lightly on the ground. The guy in this video lifts it on the the return stroke.
That''s because of the rate of advance being in excess of what one could achieve if dragging the blade on the ground. The reason for that "rule" is to keep people from lifting the blade way up off the ground and hacking with it. When you understand the rules, you can bend the rules. The speed I was going at would have caused me to trip over myself if I didn't lift the blade. Watch scythe racing videos and you'll see that lifting the blade in those circumstances is the norm. :)
@@FortyTwoBlades Again...this guy does this for hire, not for fun. His rules are for making it efficient for him. Racing is one thing: but doing it for hours on end...all of a sudden saving energy by not lifting the blade completely off the ground makes a whole lot of sense. It's the tortoise that won the race, not the hare.
The one in the neck reduces the required angle in the tang of the blade. The second (the middle arch) brings the left hand down into a position where more muscle groups can be better employed in the stroke. The last helps put the hand in an angle of reduced wrist strain.
Nice. I like to let my yard grow and bloom for the sake of the pollinators, then try to cut it before the grasses release their hay-fever inducing pollen. That leaves a narrow space on the calendar to get it done: let it go too long and it's almost impossible with the gas push mower and the sneezing. (It'll grow eight feet where I let it.) However, my yard is very lumpy and uneven, so that the surface is a hindrance even to a large-wheeled push mower when the grass is short. The string trimmer is noisy, messy, itchy, sweaty, and involves the least pleasant hours spent outdoors. How would a scythe manage uneven ground, without scraping into the high spots and missing the low spots? By the way, I read many of the comments here: you not only make mowing look easy, you communicate well and with equanimity even when rudely challenged.
Scythes work wonderfully uneven ground, though it naturally requires more experience to mow well than flat ground. In general one would want a little more "crown" (gradual upward curvature) to the blade to deal with bumpy ground, and the smaller the width of those depressions, the shorter and more heavily crowned of a blade you'll want. Think of it as making the blade more like a scoop. Such a blade does leave a less even stubble on flat ground, though, so it's about striking the right balance!
Was it professionally ground and honed with the tang angle correctly adjusted for your height? If you purchased it off the shelf from another retailer then it would have needed some extra tuning before being ready to mow. See this guide for additional information: site.baryonyxknife.com/blog/2014/08/10/a-primer-on-the-selection-use-maintenance-of-the-american-scythe/
A canoe-shaped scythe stone and a "whipping stick" which is used a lot like a butcher's steel to draw out any micro-deformations of the edge with a minimum of abrasive wear.
It's difficult for us to make a specific recommendation without knowing your height and intended context of use! Feel free to send us an email at sales@baryonyxknife.com if you'd like to discuss!
It's what's known as a "whipping stick". It's a piece of wood with a rounded oval cross section used to grab any microscopic misalignments of the edge and draw them out straight. 3 out of 4 times you stop to maintain your edge you can use only the stick instead of the stone, as edge micro-misalignment comprises the largest part of edge dulling rather than actual abrasive wear.
@@FortyTwoBlades Interesting to see that on a yard tool. Usually you only see stropping being done on stuff sharpened to a much higher level, like knives and straight razors. What's the general grit level on the stones used for scythes?
@@FortyTwoBlades Thanks for the reply :) Curious about the shape you've described also, will look through some more of your videos and do a few searches. I'm now investing a into scything a fair bit.
A couple of our scythe stones and a wooden "whipping stick" which is used much like a butcher's steel or strop to draw out any micro misalignments of the edge.
We can, but the cost of posting a single scythe snath to Australia would run around $500 USD as it's too large for USPS international service, and the cost of shipping a package so large via UPS or FedEx is rather steep.
Joshua Nagel it sounds like perhaps you haven't used an American pattern much. :) A good scythe of any pattern is just that--a good scythe. And this is a good scythe.
@@FortyTwoBlades I see a lot of people having this same conversation all over the place lol. Is there a difference in technique or something that may have lead to this misunderstanding?
Nice smooth form! AT 4:20 you're using your whetstone, then pull a longer object from your lest side and run the blade. It that just a dowel to pick up any sharp spurs from the burr? Keep up the good work. Thanks for your history knowledge you shared below. Interesting.
It's what the Swedes call a "whipping stick". You can use a simple dowel, though this was made from a piece of 1/2" x 2" pine with the length rounded to an oval shape. It's sort of like a strop and is used to align any misalignments or micro-rolls in the edge. It greatly extends how long you can go before needing to actually use an abrasive stone on the edge, as well as making an excellent finishing step.
My favorite blade is unmarked but it's rare to come across a bad one unless it has condition issues. A 30" grass blade will handle 95% of most folks' mowing needs.
Don't worry--we're well aware of that! It was done deliberately to show the action clearly from that side. It's not how we'd go about it in the course of normal mowing.
A personal favorite of mine. It's an unmarked vintage 30" grass blade, and has a double bead (which I usually don't care for) but the steel and heat treatment are excellent and the geometry of the blade's curves and the set of the tang relative to the blade itself are exactly to my preferences. It may have been made as a private label production piece by David Wadsworth & Son, as its overall style of forging is closest in appearance to their work, but it could be by any one of a number of other makers.
Scythes actually held on as a common tool the longest in hilly areas that were too steep for mechanical mowers! Work from right to left so your blade is running downhill and you're working across the hillside rather than up or down it.
FortyTwoBlades Often I find it easier to mow up hill, standing with my right foot slightly ahead of my left. That way gravity lends itself to my sling and I get a more even finish.
One adapts their technique to the circumstances at hand, but for someone just starting out then working across the hill's face from right to left is safest and least likely to cause them to lance the hill with the toe of their blade. Once you get the hang of riding the ground properly then uphill can work well depending on the conditions. One thing to never do is mow downhill. If you fall you can land on the blade and you'd likely die as a result. You can find period mentions of people falling on their scythes from mowing downhill and it was the end of them.
It would depend on where it was going. Some countries are unable to receive scythe snaths via USPS (usually the cheapest international service) so the shipping cost can potentially be very high for a single unit. If interested in seeing if we can send to you and the total cost, please feel free to visit our website and send us an email. :)
+macmurfy2jka And it allows me to cut selectively, avoiding bird nests, snakes, flowers, etc. while turning the cut vegetation into a useful harvest for our animals. :)
You said it right there! Avoiding cutting snakes and other slow moving critters. I have over 8 acres to cut, so can't do it all this way, BUT, I can use it in the areas where I most frequently see snakes. My goats appreciate the cuttings... hate using the tractor for many reasons...
I was going to ask what you did with the cut grass. My experience is with horses and I think they'd colic if allowed to eat that much at one time. I don't think a goat's stomach is that sensitive. :)
These horses have been pastured, not paddocked, and are accustomed to eating green lush grass. They've never colicked as a result, but those just introducing their horses to fresh cut green feed would want to introduce it slowly so that their digestion could adjust. The larger concern regarding colic from feeding grass trimmings is those cut with a power mower, which shreds and minces the grass. The scythe leaves the stalks whole, and so it's no different than turning the horse out on fresh pasture.
I'm new to scything I have consumed as much info that I can glean off the internet...Is there any sense in weighting the end of an aluminium scythe so it's more balanced when lifting it with the lower nib? I'm primarily mowing rushes and thatch,I'm using a silicon carbide stone dry but I fear the blade will wear prematurely with this? should I be using a finer canoe stone with holder and water like in your other video now I have a sharp edge?there is two holes in the blade and I have seen others with a wire attached from said holes to the snath,is this for support or does it help with building a swath? I put one on but it was in the way of sharpening so I took it off . Thanks for the videos 👍🏻
Are you located in the UK or Australia? With two holes in the base of the blade it's likely you have an English pattern blade rather than American. Grass nails (the rod connecting the blade and snath) are mostly to prevent grass from getting caught up in the heel of the blade and to provide a brace against the shaft of the snath due to their comparatively delicate tang design vs. American blades. Silicon carbide stones will not inherently result excessive wear--the performance properties of the specific stone and how you apply them will determine that.
Thanks for the reply I'm in Ireland ,the blade says Sheffield on it but the makers name is illegible ,I bought a smaller NOS 24" bulldog I'm in the process of filing it..not much choice out there right now unless you go towards a new Austrian scythe...🍀
@@What..a..shambles you can also use a resin-bond type A3 grinding point in an electric hand drill to do the work. If the blade is riveted construction don't be too bothered about keeping the edge centered, but if it's all forged as one piece then you need to keep the apex of the edge centered in the thickness of the steel, as it's likely a laminated blade and uneven grinding will cause your edge to be made of the supporting cladding iron instead of the edge steel.
www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=A3+shaft&_trksid=p2334524.m4084.l1313&sid=midlandabrasives&isRefine=true. thanks for the explanation on edge centering with forged and riveted blades..I had watched your drill grind video and searched but came up with nothing but with a renewed search today and by rewatching and reading the description of the drill video I found this for sale and I think the white one is the one to go for ,I think it'll be handy for my hedge laying tools aswell ,I put in a week of evenings putting an edge on my new Yorkshire pattern billhook by hand last year 😅
josh hodge It depends on how you plan on tackling the space. You can progress in a spiral, return to the start and run another line, or simply double back and cut a double windrow, though it's easy to miss spots that way.
Oh wow i cant find a complete scythe, but for a blade and handle its only a little over 100 usd. Thats not to bad at all i think i want to try this out.
Be sure to buy from a specialist instead of from a general retailer like Amazon. They don't come ready-to-mow from the factory and so need additional work if order to be brought up to that condition. To the best of our knowledge we're the only shop that offers American scythes ready to mow right now.
To ship packages the size of a scythe snath from the USA to India requires commercial quantities to become economically feasible, so you would need a business to invest in a quantity of them. Seymour Manufacturing produces them and you might contact them about a wholesale bulk purchase.
Its not the original technique but it is very effective. he should use his arms less and his hips more. Now he gets tired quicker than with the original technique, but it effective, every cut is at least 1 foot x 6 foot (30cm x 2 mtr). I have a small garden and i use the wrong technique too. But farmers did it different in the past.
Actually, this is fully correct form for the American pattern. The arms are used in tandem with the torso and legs to distribute the load evenly across the whole body. The stroke uses the right hand as the pivot, which has more mechanical advantage than when using a left-hand pivot. Between this and the exceptionally keen blade, very little effort is coming from any particular part of the body.
In the last seconds he makes mistakes, cuts in the ground, he is tired. he should do his legs not so far away from eachother and use his hips instead of his shoulders.
American blades are not peened, so that's not something that should be done anyhow! And yes, grass blades can typically handle fairly heavy growth so long as it's *sparse* growth that the blade can be navigated around. Longer blades ARE more prone to snagging in dense scrubby growth, though, and for that reason are avoided when dealing with volume removal of woodier targets for leverage reasons. Shorter blades prevent accidentally taking too large of a bite.
Its woodier species, but I had it mowed (huge batwing) recently, so it'll just be new growth of woody species (cutting it every 3-4 weeks). Im trying to keep it down to help trees grow. The problem is I can't get in there with my mower. There is an old one in decent enough shape online for 15 dollars. Gonna give it a go. Appreciate the feedback.
Just fixed one I found in a barn... weed eater = $125 scythe = free ! 😁 much to my landladys approval I cut the backyard with it,I could not believe how well it works on thick wet grass....WAY better than a cheap weed eater....kinda fun too. The front yard however is very thin dry grass...it kinda looks like pigpins hair now. What did they do right next to trees and walls back in this tools.. HAY-day ?? I don’t think the answer is “slipping the blade between the wall and grass and snatching back fast” I got frustrated and just yanked out all the hard to get to stuff.
For up against objects either the blade must be kept well-pointed at the toe and the spine ridden up against the obstacle like a guide, or else a grass hook would be used for trimming work of that nature. Depending on the shape of the toe on your blade, the former technique may or may not be especially viable, as many blades made for rough field mowing conditions have fairly broad-angled toes designed to deflect off hillocks and rocks, and the angle of presentation you'd need to get such a tip to cut effectively in that manner would be uncomfortable. But if the toe of your blade is fine enough, it works quite nicely.
FortyTwoBlades well thank you 👍🏽😁 Never heard of a “grass hook”...but I just google imaged it and know where I can get one for super cheap. I must have me the rough,field type... I’m gonna research and know a lot more tonight,seeing you in the video I know my swings all wrong,I look like I’m auditioning for a new kill bill sequel, You’ve got grace happening. Thanks again, I’ll know exactly what I’m doing in a very short while.
save the back pain when you get older, say 50 or 60 yo, we may young now and full of energy, but pains come later down the road, my old neighbour told me...
Yeah it's not producing ANY back strain if used correctly. These old duffers are still mowing just fine, and historically it's generally been considered that the older you get the better you scythe since it's a tool that relies on technique and finesse, not strength. ruclips.net/video/no_M7Wubo1A/видео.html
Развлечения
I was in Romania JUNE 2018 they still use a Sythe on the deep areas Carpathian mountains. Farming on steep hillside requires handwork for haystacks and modern tractors fail to plow and horses turn soils in springtime where no modern man dares to tread. Cell phones are a novelty and the old ways still prevail harsh long winters.
Man, you are one of the few people in US that I saw on you tube that knows how to use a scythe.
form is excellent.
He’s throwing the swarth onto the uncut grass. That makes it harder to cut the next time around. Right handed mowers should go clockwise.
@@Dreyno That was only in the first clip first few seconds. 2nd clip is done the other way.
@@mlg779 You can’t praise someone as one of the few people using a scythe properly when the first thing he does is make a rookie error.
@@Dreyno Have you ever used a scythe? I have done it every summer from 13 years old to 20 when I came to US. Every summer for 2 weeks with my grand father we would wake up at 5 AM to 7 PM for 2 weeks. Now not sure with that scythe and his technique how many hours he would last but what I see here looks good. We used totally different handles. I do not like this type of scythe.
OMG I couldn't help but go back and forth with my mouse on the loading bar to watch you magically repair the grass with your scythe
WOW that looks SO COOL! XD You, sir, are a magician! XD
HAHAHA, I just tried it after you wrote that, pretty funny xD
Alexander Nelson 2:44-3:27 dam I didnt know U could rollerscate and cut flown grass
I was not prepared for how funny that was! Thanks, Alexander!
...fuck you. I had to do that because of this comment and it is glorious.
I can't believe I just watched you mow...... oddly soothing and pleasant..... I have to do this more often.... powering down without going stir crazy...... nailed it! 5 stars buddy!
This is oddly relaxing.
A common sentiment!
I was thinking the same. I could watch for hours. hell I think I would PAY people to let me cut their lawns lol
A fair bit of ASMR going on with your average scythe work.
Watch at 2x speed its better
Watching an American Scythe in action is intriguing. Especially after discovering my 9th Great Grandfather Joseph Jenckes Sr. was the one that created this elegant tool out of the crude and inefficient English scythes of the time. He was quite the remarkable fellow.
Joseph Jenckes made several notable inventions that were arguably the first steps of the American scythe's development and delineation from the English scythe. You will find sources that claim that he invented the modern curved snath, but my research suggests that this was only partly true, and that while the details of his original invention are lost, the innovation he made was the primary arch of the snath at the right hand, while Silas Lamson invented the further recurve bend of the neck of the snath. Loop bolt fasteners were invented by Pinckney Frost, while the twist-to-tighten nib was developed by Joseph and Erasmus S. Clapp. Notably, Jenckes also invented a method of welding an iron bar to the back of scythe blades to stiffen them, but it is unclear if this was the origin of the V-shaped stiffening rib along the back of American blades or not.
My last name is Scyther (translated). Somebody as skillful as you must have earned my elders their name with this beautiful trade!
Senser?
Mesmerizing been watching diff video for days I need to get one. Blessings
Fantastic job there young man!👏👏👏👏💪 Well done. As always.😁
Why, thank you! :D
Very clean mowing!
Thanks for sharing Ben.
I wish Crocs hadn't discontinued their scything clogs.
They're Specialist II Work Clogs, or their predecessor, at least.
Thank you for sharing this wonderful ❤️ video 👌 tutorial on using an American scythe.
Holy hell thank you bro I knew sumn wuz off , not with technique but the application and direction of the curve of the American style
Most often they're found with the blade in extremely rough condition, and the tang angle not set. The blade needs to be considerably more thin and keen than most folks are accustomed to even with tools like knives, and they usually need a liberal application of elbow grease to get them functioning properly. When the snaths are properly slimmed down and the blades tuned up, they'll mow with the best of them.
Man I need to get one of those
So silent I love it. Use to get the hard to reach spots with something of that order. Miss it too.
I got a bush scythe from an elderly friend here in Ontario Canada. I'm surprised how well it works for trail clearing. Cuts sapling up to 3/4" and berry bushes are a breeze.
I cleaned the rust with a flap sanding disc on the grinder and final sharpen with a file.
It has a fat aluminum handle ( 1 1/2" D ) and the grip nuts need to be worked loose so I can position and properly tighten them.
The blade doesn't seem to lay flat enough relative to the ground.
Encouraged to buy a proper set-up but I'll see if I can tweak this one for now.
I used a scythe for hay as a youngster and it sure is fun digging into this topic.
I could watch that action all day! Man I'm getting old...
Beautifully amazing!
Now I know how good this tool is!
Nothing like old world tech. This is also healthier for the lawn as well. Never used one of these tools but I have used a Reel Mower.
your technique is something to strive for. Just got my aluminum snath today to go with my american scythe and you definitely make it look easy. I have to keep practicing.
Just have to have everything tuned up right and then use the right movements. When done right, it *is* easy, but getting all of those factors lined up right is the part most folks have to troubleshoot! One of the biggest common issues is simply not having the edge thin and crisp enough, or with enough of a tooth to the scratch pattern. An edge that will easily slice flesh may not be keen enough for cutting grass.
Powerful strokes. Impressive
That is a nice sharp scythe. I have an Austrian scythe and I love it but I love the look of an American scythe, especially if it is wooden. He didn't miss a single blade of grass.
I own a bunch of European style scythes of various makes to stay in practice with them but much prefer the American style. It's just hard to beat the crisp edge that can be easily obtained and how long it lasts. Having a bit of mass on the end of the snath helps make for a smooth ride to the cut, too, with less strain on the muscles.
@@FortyTwoBlades that's interesting. So the heavier blade makes for easier work. I'm in the market for a garden blade next and a new anvil. I have the jig type for beginners. I love mowing with a scythe so I can listen to my headphones etc.
Nice arch strokes!
1:25 Cool cat be like "EZ hooman
this used to be regular routine, now people are using it as therapy or exercise... seems to me like humans are sliding backwards
Or they took a wrong turn and making a correction for it.
Heyalth Or we've made such leaps and bounds in technology that we don't need scythes anymore, and thus only use them for fun. I think that sounds about right.
@@bryanbridges2987 or we've become so lazy that we'd pollute and kill our planet just to save some effort.
Years ago everyone had horses and only the wealthy had cars,
Now everyone has cars and only the wealthy have horses !!!
Wow, it's an art by itself.
I had no idea scythes did such a clean job.
Most satisfying video!!
Loved it
This should be put on one of those satisfying vids
I just bought one of those exact ones from someone and was wondering how to set it up.
Check our website for maintenance equipment and our links and reading section for the instructional material we have on our blog! We have detailed instructions for beginners.
byxco.com/
site.baryonyxknife.com/blog/?p=6
Молодец, работяга, уважаю.
American scythe is ergonomic.
Absolutely! Though other global styles, when done well, are ergonomic as well, the American sort is one of the few snath styles that allow for altering the rotation of the grips around the shaft of the snath, which allows for very fine adjustment!
The curve on this scythe looks like it's a lot more comfortable to use than the straight handle one. You don't have to bend down as much.
With either style one shouldn't have to bend over more than the simple tilt at the waist to set one's rate of advance. But I definitely prefer the curved American snath.
Scythe ASMR!!!! I got to get me some land.
That was me so many years ago !
1:38 sir your dog is escaping
Barn cat. ;)
Looks like a cat
No, it can't be a cat. After reexamining the video in depth I now believe it's a pet lizard of some kind.
Lizard people in disguise ;)
Ok i have to walk in this I work for illuminati and that is clearly a fucking alien you fucking Idiots and now that I told you this I have to put yall down.
Awesome
Bruce Lee: I fear the man who has practiced one scythe stroke 10,000 times
I am going to buy one of these, hand it to my kid and tell him to mow the yard. The look on his face will be priceless.
He gone mistake it for the fortnite pickaxe and attempt to harvest wood lmaooo
Hopefully he doesn’t cut your toes of
Record it plz lol
Any updates on this?
i need to buy one
On Halloween you can be the American Grim Reaper.
Looks like you have that thing tuned up pretty well. I gave up on American blades and snaths a long time ago. I never could get the handles set up comfortably and they were always moving around. Had to put pieces of leather and cardboard and stuff under there to try to keep them in place, but it never seemed to work. The aluminum is light, but the wood are quite heavy. The last handle I made was straight, but I need to make another that fits me better. Still, it seems far better than any American style I've tried before. I bookmarked your site, will check out your American pattern scythe stuff later.
You can shave wooden ones down to appropriate weight. I consider a good wooden snath for general purpose mowing as weighing no more than 2lb 12oz including all hardware. If your nibs weren't gripping properly then the bands needed tuning so they could clamp properly. See this video on how to do it: ruclips.net/video/DpwfQe5EK58/видео.html
Note that in that video I use a larger number of lighter blows than I normally do, as I'm trying more carefully to preserve the round shape of the band. I usually use a heavy cross-pein hammer on my conventional anvil to get the band down to rough size, then true it up on the blowhorn anvil. You can improvise various methods of attaining the same result, as you're not likely to have such an anvil available to you. When doing these using my usual method it takes only about 2 minutes but me to completely reshape the band to the proper size and shape.
It makes sense I suppose that modern wood snaths are overly thick just like a lot of axe handles are now. Still it would seem that quite a lot more thickness would be required for a curved wooden snaths to retain shape over time. I've seen a lot of old wooden snaths and don't recall any that were what I'd call light. Given that the blades are also heavier by quite a lot the traditional American scythe would necessarily seem a lot heavier. I know the Vidos seems to think that lighter is better, pretty much as light as you can make them as far as I can tell. I know Peter told me I wouldn't realize the full potential of the scythe until I got into a very light tool. Do you think there is any advantage to the extra weight, or what's your take on that? feel free to point me to something you've written. I haven't read through your site yet. Looks awesome though.
I have a mandrel I made for the hardy hole from an axel for that sort of thing, but got rid of American snaths a while ago. I still see them quite a bit though.
To start off, disregard what the Vidos say when it comes to American scythes. They have little to no knowledge of them and how they work. :)
Lighter scythes are easier to set in motion, but are also more easily stopped by the vegetation you're cutting. A heavier unit provides a flywheel effect that is useful in heavier growth. As most of the work in using a scythe is actually in carrying the weight of the cut material through the swath, the load is highest at the end of the stroke. With light scythes--especially European ones--this is very noticeable, and you end up with a sharp spike in required energy input at the end of the stroke that will beat you up quickly in dense growth unless you slow to a snail's pace. With a heavier scythe initial input is stored as inertia that is released at the end of the stroke. This levels out the required energy input across the stroke, increasing it at the start but lowering it at the end, and this helps keep you in the aerobic zone.
I've put together American scythes with wooden snaths that only weight 4lb 4oz in total, including the 30" grass blade. That's lighter than just the snath of a Scythe Supply scythe.
we'll I'd certainly thought of the inertia factor in both cases, but that's something that can't be assessed on theory alone. You're going to have me looking for American scythes to try it out myself :) I've passed up piles of them through the years. Most of the wood handles were seriously ponderous things to put it mildly. You and Peter have very similar approaches to tools and to understanding and explaining things. He's also brilliant and ultimately seeks the truth. Everybody is surely wrong about something or has a limited perspective, in which we have to include ourselves if we are going to sidestep the trap of building constructs on misassumptions. That may be the ultimate lesson in truth seeking. You guys should be allies (not to be confused with being in agreement :).
We're on friendly terms with one another, even if we butt heads often. That being said, I'd say he seeks authority rather than seeking truth, in the strictest sense. He enjoys being considered the global scythe guru, despite his outward modesty regarding it. He holds many pseudo-scientific and New Age mystic beliefs, such as peening somehow causing electromagnetic mumbojumbo in the edge of blades, when blows from a hammer will actually demagnetize steel. I have much to write on the technical aspects of how scythes of all types function, and what strengths and weaknesses various global styles have from an engineering perspective, but haven't had time to get them all down yet, especially as they require a lot of diagrams to make sense to a person reading from afar.
Ultimately a good scythe is a good scythe, regardless of style. Peter has done much to popularize scything in the modern era, and his approach IS one that works, but so do many others. I have and use European scythes, but overwhelmingly prefer a well-tuned American. Just bear in mind that if you pick up a vintage one it will need a LOT of work to restore it to ready-to-mow condition.
Mildly Satisfying fo sho.
Who needs a bowflex?
Good 👍
I recently bought an Austrian style scythe and I'm
running into issues cutting my lawn. Video after video I see of scything
a lawn and you're all cutting through it like butter, but even working on my form and trying to make sure the blade is properly angled,
etc; and it's not really having the same result. My best cuts, keeping the blade to the ground, so far still
leave about 4" of grass when my preferred length to aim for is about 2".
It's very possible that your geometry isn't thin enough, that your edge is smooth and polished rather than toothy, is insufficiently crisp and has a burr or wire edge on it, or that your stroke style is a poor match for the curves of your particular blade. There's lots of possible contributing factors, but those are the most likely culprits based on your description.
@@FortyTwoBlades The model I have was brought from Lee Valley and the blade is the "PC501 - Scythe Blade" on their site. It's a 29” blade. The grasses that I'm dealing with are St Augustine and Bermuda. Hopefully this info can narrow it down a little.
Love this guy what a awesome tool long forgotten rather do this than push a stupid lawn mower.
What are the pros and cons of aluminum vs wood snaths for American scyths?
Wood is able to be made more robust than aluminum, and so is better for tackling heavy resistant growth like in heavy weed and bush work. Aluminum snaths are able to be lighter for a given requisite rigidity due to being hollow, and so excel for use in all less strenuous mowing (which 95% of my mowing is comprised of.)
When you can't find gas anymore for your lawn mower
awesome where can i get it?
You make cutting grass look cool
the cat went to its poachers spot to catch field mice. lol
Yes that's pretty much exactly what she did. :)
nice
I want to buy one this for some rice farmer in my hometown. Theyre still bending down on their back to cut down the rice plant with a sickle , this will speed things up.
In the harvesting of grains, the stalks need to be kept in alignment, which is a given with sickles. For a scythe to harvest grains it needs a cradle added to catch the cut stalks and hold them together. You can see the technique of using a grain cradle in this old stock film, although he's harvesting oats.
www.criticalpast.com/video/65675066806_wheat-field_cutting-wheat_binding-shocks_stalks-of-wheat_cutting-with-hand-scythe
I see the same design in the "Scythe Project in India 2016" I just watched on youtube. I want to do the same thing for Vietnam. Scythe is only in Western culture, most people in Asia dont know about it.
They're wonderful tools, and it's interesting how their use remained mostly confined to Europe, North America, and Australia, other than a few other isolated regions.
Hi Enso...you can visit us anytime you want in India...the scythe project is in full swing in India and will soon expand to Bangladesh, Thailand, Pakistan and Nepal...We would love to help you do the same for Vietnam
Enso ,LLC Wow, really? I can't imagine bending down and cutting enough rice to feed my country with a sickle. Dear lord!
Werry well!!!!!!!
I saw a video of a guy that does this for hire, and he never lifts the blade from the ground when he's mowing. He even says you don't lift the blade...drag it lightly on the ground. The guy in this video lifts it on the the return stroke.
That''s because of the rate of advance being in excess of what one could achieve if dragging the blade on the ground. The reason for that "rule" is to keep people from lifting the blade way up off the ground and hacking with it. When you understand the rules, you can bend the rules. The speed I was going at would have caused me to trip over myself if I didn't lift the blade. Watch scythe racing videos and you'll see that lifting the blade in those circumstances is the norm. :)
@@FortyTwoBlades
Again...this guy does this for hire, not for fun. His rules are for making it efficient for him. Racing is one thing: but doing it for hours on end...all of a sudden saving energy by not lifting the blade completely off the ground makes a whole lot of sense.
It's the tortoise that won the race, not the hare.
Sir, what is the function of the curve in the snath? I've seen many an antique scythe and they all had that curve in it.
The one in the neck reduces the required angle in the tang of the blade. The second (the middle arch) brings the left hand down into a position where more muscle groups can be better employed in the stroke. The last helps put the hand in an angle of reduced wrist strain.
super
Nice. I like to let my yard grow and bloom for the sake of the pollinators, then try to cut it before the grasses release their hay-fever inducing pollen. That leaves a narrow space on the calendar to get it done: let it go too long and it's almost impossible with the gas push mower and the sneezing. (It'll grow eight feet where I let it.) However, my yard is very lumpy and uneven, so that the surface is a hindrance even to a large-wheeled push mower when the grass is short. The string trimmer is noisy, messy, itchy, sweaty, and involves the least pleasant hours spent outdoors. How would a scythe manage uneven ground, without scraping into the high spots and missing the low spots? By the way, I read many of the comments here: you not only make mowing look easy, you communicate well and with equanimity even when rudely challenged.
Scythes work wonderfully uneven ground, though it naturally requires more experience to mow well than flat ground. In general one would want a little more "crown" (gradual upward curvature) to the blade to deal with bumpy ground, and the smaller the width of those depressions, the shorter and more heavily crowned of a blade you'll want. Think of it as making the blade more like a scoop. Such a blade does leave a less even stubble on flat ground, though, so it's about striking the right balance!
just make ur yard a garden by that point
I tried using this scyte and I couldn't cut the grass to such a short length, it felt like the blade was pitched in the wrong direction.
Was it professionally ground and honed with the tang angle correctly adjusted for your height? If you purchased it off the shelf from another retailer then it would have needed some extra tuning before being ready to mow. See this guide for additional information:
site.baryonyxknife.com/blog/2014/08/10/a-primer-on-the-selection-use-maintenance-of-the-american-scythe/
I'm curious what two items you used to touch up the blade?Thanks.
A canoe-shaped scythe stone and a "whipping stick" which is used a lot like a butcher's steel to draw out any micro-deformations of the edge with a minimum of abrasive wear.
I am looking for recommendations on a scythe to purchase. Thanks.
It's difficult for us to make a specific recommendation without knowing your height and intended context of use! Feel free to send us an email at sales@baryonyxknife.com if you'd like to discuss!
Very well done! May I ask what was the second tool you used when sharpening?
It's what's known as a "whipping stick". It's a piece of wood with a rounded oval cross section used to grab any microscopic misalignments of the edge and draw them out straight. 3 out of 4 times you stop to maintain your edge you can use only the stick instead of the stone, as edge micro-misalignment comprises the largest part of edge dulling rather than actual abrasive wear.
@@FortyTwoBlades Interesting to see that on a yard tool. Usually you only see stropping being done on stuff sharpened to a much higher level, like knives and straight razors. What's the general grit level on the stones used for scythes?
@@FortyTwoBlades hi, what kind of wood is appropriate for this use please?
@@leifcian4288 just about anything is fine. The ones I use are made from 1/2" x 2" pine.
@@FortyTwoBlades Thanks for the reply :) Curious about the shape you've described also, will look through some more of your videos and do a few searches. I'm now investing a into scything a fair bit.
Your cat photo bombed you
She likes to do that. :D
Shouldn't the back/end handle be on the other side of the bar?
No. American snaths are conventionally used with both nibs facing forward. 😊
Hey, man. Your website won't let me add items to the cart. I want one.
That's because we're out of stock! More arriving in a few days, so keep your eyes peeled for availability. :)
Anyone catch what he used to sharpen the blade?
A couple of our scythe stones and a wooden "whipping stick" which is used much like a butcher's steel or strop to draw out any micro misalignments of the edge.
If its American scythe can you please put a link where to shop for one, thank you.
www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
Where did you get this tool? the shaft is perfect
www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
Thankyou!!!
Now I can be a true grass reaper
Где купить такую удобную косу? Подскажите,плиззз
1.5 2.0 speed so much more amusing
Hi there, is it possible to post this to Australia?
We can, but the cost of posting a single scythe snath to Australia would run around $500 USD as it's too large for USPS international service, and the cost of shipping a package so large via UPS or FedEx is rather steep.
I need it please
Looks like it works as good as the other ones. do the handgrips adjust?
Not only up and down the length, but they rotate around the shaft of the snath, as well.
@@FortyTwoBlades Thank you will it effect height of person, I'm 4' 11 woman.
I think a European Scythe with a 90cm Falci or Gina's blade is just as quick, but it's also more ergonomic and comfortable on your back and arms
Joshua Nagel it sounds like perhaps you haven't used an American pattern much. :) A good scythe of any pattern is just that--a good scythe. And this is a good scythe.
@@FortyTwoBlades I see a lot of people having this same conversation all over the place lol. Is there a difference in technique or something that may have lead to this misunderstanding?
Nice smooth form! AT 4:20 you're using your whetstone, then pull a longer object from your lest side and run the blade. It that just a dowel to pick up any sharp spurs from the burr? Keep up the good work. Thanks for your history knowledge you shared below. Interesting.
It's what the Swedes call a "whipping stick". You can use a simple dowel, though this was made from a piece of 1/2" x 2" pine with the length rounded to an oval shape. It's sort of like a strop and is used to align any misalignments or micro-rolls in the edge. It greatly extends how long you can go before needing to actually use an abrasive stone on the edge, as well as making an excellent finishing step.
Interesting and Thanks for the quick rely.
what blade do you use? what do you recommend for grass?
My favorite blade is unmarked but it's rare to come across a bad one unless it has condition issues. A 30" grass blade will handle 95% of most folks' mowing needs.
I really appreciate your response. any snath recommendations? I'm 5'8 but want to have others be able to use it. @@FortyTwoBlades
You started on wrong side, now grass is in your way.
Don't worry--we're well aware of that! It was done deliberately to show the action clearly from that side. It's not how we'd go about it in the course of normal mowing.
What blade were you using for this mowing?
A personal favorite of mine. It's an unmarked vintage 30" grass blade, and has a double bead (which I usually don't care for) but the steel and heat treatment are excellent and the geometry of the blade's curves and the set of the tang relative to the blade itself are exactly to my preferences. It may have been made as a private label production piece by David Wadsworth & Son, as its overall style of forging is closest in appearance to their work, but it could be by any one of a number of other makers.
I love in the green and rolling hills of WV .. . read: Steep slopes.
How do you scythe on less than level ground? (read: steep slopes)
Scythes actually held on as a common tool the longest in hilly areas that were too steep for mechanical mowers! Work from right to left so your blade is running downhill and you're working across the hillside rather than up or down it.
Have you (or anyone else ) done a tutorial?
I don't have one on hand to demonstrate, but it's not too complex. One quickly discovers the best way to go about it in actual use as you mow. :)
FortyTwoBlades Often I find it easier to mow up hill, standing with my right foot slightly ahead of my left. That way gravity lends itself to my sling and I get a more even finish.
One adapts their technique to the circumstances at hand, but for someone just starting out then working across the hill's face from right to left is safest and least likely to cause them to lance the hill with the toe of their blade. Once you get the hang of riding the ground properly then uphill can work well depending on the conditions. One thing to never do is mow downhill. If you fall you can land on the blade and you'd likely die as a result. You can find period mentions of people falling on their scythes from mowing downhill and it was the end of them.
is it in indian market and whom are suppliers
To the best of my knowledge, American scythes are not currently sold in India.
I want to purchase said scythe how
It would depend on where it was going. Some countries are unable to receive scythe snaths via USPS (usually the cheapest international service) so the shipping cost can potentially be very high for a single unit. If interested in seeing if we can send to you and the total cost, please feel free to visit our website and send us an email. :)
Nice. Appears to be about as fast as a powered push mower.
+macmurfy2jka And it allows me to cut selectively, avoiding bird nests, snakes, flowers, etc. while turning the cut vegetation into a useful harvest for our animals. :)
You said it right there! Avoiding cutting snakes and other slow moving critters. I have over 8 acres to cut, so can't do it all this way, BUT, I can use it in the areas where I most frequently see snakes. My goats appreciate the cuttings... hate using the tractor for many reasons...
I was going to ask what you did with the cut grass. My experience is with horses and I think they'd colic if allowed to eat that much at one time. I don't think a goat's stomach is that sensitive. :)
These horses have been pastured, not paddocked, and are accustomed to eating green lush grass. They've never colicked as a result, but those just introducing their horses to fresh cut green feed would want to introduce it slowly so that their digestion could adjust. The larger concern regarding colic from feeding grass trimmings is those cut with a power mower, which shreds and minces the grass. The scythe leaves the stalks whole, and so it's no different than turning the horse out on fresh pasture.
@@TheJPDunn it is also possible to turn the grass into hay if you have the time, and a rake.
I'm new to scything I have consumed as much info that I can glean off the internet...Is there any sense in weighting the end of an aluminium scythe so it's more balanced when lifting it with the lower nib? I'm primarily mowing rushes and thatch,I'm using a silicon carbide stone dry but I fear the blade will wear prematurely with this? should I be using a finer canoe stone with holder and water like in your other video now I have a sharp edge?there is two holes in the blade and I have seen others with a wire attached from said holes to the snath,is this for support or does it help with building a swath? I put one on but it was in the way of sharpening so I took it off . Thanks for the videos 👍🏻
Are you located in the UK or Australia? With two holes in the base of the blade it's likely you have an English pattern blade rather than American. Grass nails (the rod connecting the blade and snath) are mostly to prevent grass from getting caught up in the heel of the blade and to provide a brace against the shaft of the snath due to their comparatively delicate tang design vs. American blades. Silicon carbide stones will not inherently result excessive wear--the performance properties of the specific stone and how you apply them will determine that.
Thanks for the reply I'm in Ireland ,the blade says Sheffield on it but the makers name is illegible ,I bought a smaller NOS 24" bulldog I'm in the process of filing it..not much choice out there right now unless you go towards a new Austrian scythe...🍀
@@What..a..shambles you can also use a resin-bond type A3 grinding point in an electric hand drill to do the work. If the blade is riveted construction don't be too bothered about keeping the edge centered, but if it's all forged as one piece then you need to keep the apex of the edge centered in the thickness of the steel, as it's likely a laminated blade and uneven grinding will cause your edge to be made of the supporting cladding iron instead of the edge steel.
www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=A3+shaft&_trksid=p2334524.m4084.l1313&sid=midlandabrasives&isRefine=true. thanks for the explanation on edge centering with forged and riveted blades..I had watched your drill grind video and searched but came up with nothing but with a renewed search today and by rewatching and reading the description of the drill video I found this for sale and I think the white one is the one to go for ,I think it'll be handy for my hedge laying tools aswell ,I put in a week of evenings putting an edge on my new Yorkshire pattern billhook by hand last year 😅
Should a single mower always return to the side of the field they started on to begin the next swath?
josh hodge It depends on how you plan on tackling the space. You can progress in a spiral, return to the start and run another line, or simply double back and cut a double windrow, though it's easy to miss spots that way.
Thanks!
Sir for fitment purposes might I ask, how tall are you?
5' 9"
Oh wow i cant find a complete scythe, but for a blade and handle its only a little over 100 usd. Thats not to bad at all i think i want to try this out.
Be sure to buy from a specialist instead of from a general retailer like Amazon. They don't come ready-to-mow from the factory and so need additional work if order to be brought up to that condition. To the best of our knowledge we're the only shop that offers American scythes ready to mow right now.
time to harvest some souls
Where is available in India
To ship packages the size of a scythe snath from the USA to India requires commercial quantities to become economically feasible, so you would need a business to invest in a quantity of them. Seymour Manufacturing produces them and you might contact them about a wholesale bulk purchase.
Its not the original technique but it is very effective. he should use his arms less and his hips more. Now he gets tired quicker than with the original technique, but it effective, every cut is at least 1 foot x 6 foot (30cm x 2 mtr). I have a small garden and i use the wrong technique too. But farmers did it different in the past.
Actually, this is fully correct form for the American pattern. The arms are used in tandem with the torso and legs to distribute the load evenly across the whole body. The stroke uses the right hand as the pivot, which has more mechanical advantage than when using a left-hand pivot. Between this and the exceptionally keen blade, very little effort is coming from any particular part of the body.
In the last seconds he makes mistakes, cuts in the ground, he is tired. he should do his legs not so far away from eachother and use his hips instead of his shoulders.
i use to scarred of this tool. till knaw.
Does anyone think you can use the longer blades on thicker brush? Im not going to pean it out, but just sharpen it.
American blades are not peened, so that's not something that should be done anyhow! And yes, grass blades can typically handle fairly heavy growth so long as it's *sparse* growth that the blade can be navigated around. Longer blades ARE more prone to snagging in dense scrubby growth, though, and for that reason are avoided when dealing with volume removal of woodier targets for leverage reasons. Shorter blades prevent accidentally taking too large of a bite.
Its woodier species, but I had it mowed (huge batwing) recently, so it'll just be new growth of woody species (cutting it every 3-4 weeks). Im trying to keep it down to help trees grow. The problem is I can't get in there with my mower. There is an old one in decent enough shape online for 15 dollars. Gonna give it a go. Appreciate the feedback.
Dónde puedo adquirir una donde se puede comprar
www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
Just fixed one I found in a barn...
weed eater = $125
scythe = free !
😁 much to my landladys approval I cut the backyard with it,I could not believe how well it works on thick wet grass....WAY better than a cheap weed eater....kinda fun too.
The front yard however is very thin dry grass...it kinda looks like pigpins hair now.
What did they do right next to trees and walls back in this tools.. HAY-day ??
I don’t think the answer is “slipping the blade between the wall and grass and snatching back fast”
I got frustrated and just yanked out all the hard to get to stuff.
For up against objects either the blade must be kept well-pointed at the toe and the spine ridden up against the obstacle like a guide, or else a grass hook would be used for trimming work of that nature. Depending on the shape of the toe on your blade, the former technique may or may not be especially viable, as many blades made for rough field mowing conditions have fairly broad-angled toes designed to deflect off hillocks and rocks, and the angle of presentation you'd need to get such a tip to cut effectively in that manner would be uncomfortable. But if the toe of your blade is fine enough, it works quite nicely.
FortyTwoBlades well thank you 👍🏽😁
Never heard of a “grass hook”...but I just google imaged it and know where I can get one for super cheap.
I must have me the rough,field type...
I’m gonna research and know a lot more tonight,seeing you in the video I know my swings all wrong,I look like I’m auditioning for a new kill bill sequel,
You’ve got grace happening.
Thanks again, I’ll know exactly what I’m doing in a very short while.
You reap what you sow. Grass in this case apparently.
Pasture mix. Lots of timothy and red clover, especially.
Faster than any string trimmer
I need it! Where can I buy it? Thx!
www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
i use the electric mower, it's not that noise as the petrol ones, no need to wear earplugs, you may have a try.. and save your back...
Save my back from what exactly? It's very relaxing and easy work.
save the back pain when you get older, say 50 or 60 yo, we may young now and full of energy, but pains come later down the road, my old neighbour told me...
Yeah it's not producing ANY back strain if used correctly. These old duffers are still mowing just fine, and historically it's generally been considered that the older you get the better you scythe since it's a tool that relies on technique and finesse, not strength.
ruclips.net/video/no_M7Wubo1A/видео.html