You know if the G2 models have the same kind of sear assembly that is disassembled/reassembled the same? I know they both function the same, as in the sear has to be pushed back and down from the front or else it won't drop (drop safety)... but I'm not sure if the parts function exactly the same or if they assemble/disassemble the same. Have seen many G2C disassembly/assembly videos and repair videos and stuff like that... but they Never take the sear out or put it back in. It's the one part nobody ever takes apart. (...but if they come apart and reassemble just as easy, I wonder why).
Please make more vids of you gunsmithing. This video was very informative, but additionally, your presentation and how you talk to the camera and show what you're doing is very engaging and calming. I recently got the GX4 and was looking at the Lakeline Stainless Steel Striker Guide replacement. Any thoughts? Thanks for sharing.
I have a gx4 with the striker guide from lakeline and one factory I can't tell a difference it's basically a cosmetic upgrade and just upgrading plastic to steel
@@thepistolguy859 I'm surprised you can't tell the difference. I hate the feel of plastic on steel in triggers. I can almost always tell when there's plastic where there should be steel.
You push out the takedown pin and pull up on the frame. There is a spring in the front connecting the chassis to the frame. Do a google search for gx4 complete disassembly
@@hymanjarrett8345 Thank you I could not find any complete disassembly for the GX4, I did look. Do you push the takedown pin from left or right? Is the take down pin held in place by any other means besides just frame pressure?
@@precisionmarksman5084 the takedown pin is pushed out from left to right. And nothing holds it in there. You may need to twist it a bit to get it both out and back in. Also when reassembling don’t forget to connect that little spring to the chassis and trigger.
I wouldn’t mess with the trigger, mine is great right out of the box, just put a box of ammunition through it and it will be fine..if you are in a self defense situation you won’t even notice the difference…
I'm not bothered by the weight of my trigger as much as I am about the grittiness before the break. If I pull real slow and controlled, it will stack about twice and then break. I want it to break clean. Did this help with that?
Bruh you has me feeling like I was a gun Smith I was able to get this job done off this video in the link you put in other comments it's seems more crisp to me haven't shot it yet but thanks for the help.🤜🏾
im struggling putting the trigger spring back on, where do i loop the spring onto the trigger? I know where it goes on the frame i just cant figure out where to fasten on the trigger. Any advice?
@@hymanjarrett8345 The small trigger spring has the 2 loops on it, im stuck trying to figure where the loop attatches to the trigger. I see where it goes onto the frame but I dont see how the loop attatches to the trigger. I didnt see you take the small spring out of the trigger
@@CajunTactical assuming you didn’t figure it out yet, there is a little notch on the trigger housing towards the front. It looks like a tiny little silver tab. Just a little finger. The front of the sprint is bent so it can slide horizontally onto that little metal catch. I recommend a small flat head screw driver, pry the spring up, grab it with your fingers, stretch it so you have a decent grip with two fingers, then use the screw driver to slowly push the ring over the little tab piece. If your trigger is installed in the right place, it will be hard to miss the contact point in speaking of. It’s in front of the trigger.
A lot of people... and it works really good to even out the random trigger pull weight problem as well. (For a long time people have been having trouble with the GX4 trigger not being consistent. They can pull the trigger one time and it can be 8lbs, but then the next trigger pull will be 6lbs. It's been a problem since they came out and some people won't carry them, because of that. Just simply polishing them like this fixes that problem though. Was your sear always silver? (I think they're usually black. That's why I'm asking. Don't recall ever seeing a silver one before that wasn't polished. There are ways to polish them without removing the black finish also, but it's not easy and probably won't be polished quite as smooth).
Actually the Best unorthodox practical demo I've found! Thank you Sir!
You know if the G2 models have the same kind of sear assembly that is disassembled/reassembled the same? I know they both function the same, as in the sear has to be pushed back and down from the front or else it won't drop (drop safety)... but I'm not sure if the parts function exactly the same or if they assemble/disassemble the same. Have seen many G2C disassembly/assembly videos and repair videos and stuff like that... but they Never take the sear out or put it back in. It's the one part nobody ever takes apart. (...but if they come apart and reassemble just as easy, I wonder why).
A few before and after trigger pulls on a trigger guage would probably add some credibility to this technique.
Unfortunately I’ve already done it so I can’t. I’m sorry. You’re right though.
@@hymanjarrett8345 what is the trigger weight now?? Stock is around 8 Ibs
@@Yrachetam I don’t have a trigger scale. Working on getting one. I would say that it went down about a pound.
@Yrachetam trigger is not 8lbs from factory mid 5 lbs on the gx4
@@jeremiah7855 the 1 I bought today has to be at least 7 lbs
Please make more vids of you gunsmithing. This video was very informative, but additionally, your presentation and how you talk to the camera and show what you're doing is very engaging and calming. I recently got the GX4 and was looking at the Lakeline Stainless Steel Striker Guide replacement. Any thoughts? Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. I will make more videos.
I have a gx4 with the striker guide from lakeline and one factory I can't tell a difference it's basically a cosmetic upgrade and just upgrading plastic to steel
@@thepistolguy859 I'm surprised you can't tell the difference. I hate the feel of plastic on steel in triggers. I can almost always tell when there's plastic where there should be steel.
What do you do if that pin is very tight to get out?
To polish
How do you remove the chassis from the frame?
You push out the takedown pin and pull up on the frame. There is a spring in the front connecting the chassis to the frame. Do a google search for gx4 complete disassembly
@@hymanjarrett8345 Thank you I could not find any complete disassembly for the GX4, I did look. Do you push the takedown pin from left or right? Is the take down pin held in place by any other means besides just frame pressure?
@@precisionmarksman5084 the takedown pin is pushed out from left to right. And nothing holds it in there. You may need to twist it a bit to get it both out and back in. Also when reassembling don’t forget to connect that little spring to the chassis and trigger.
@@precisionmarksman5084 here is a link to check out. www.taurusarmed.net/threads/gx4-breakdown-exposed.436746/
@@hymanjarrett8345 , Thanks for the Link to My Breakdown, Glad you could Use it, By far the Easiest to disassemble Bar None , Thanks Again
Did you ever take the Extractor out? and how is it done if you have??
The extractor is a part of the fire control unit. Once you remove the fcu you can see that it is part of the stainless frame.
Do you mean extractor?
If so, I would like to see the entire slide disassembled, too.
@@hymanjarrett8345 That's the ejector.
I wouldn’t mess with the trigger, mine is great right out of the box, just put a box of ammunition through it and it will be fine..if you are in a self defense situation you won’t even notice the difference…
So how light is trigger now?
I'm not bothered by the weight of my trigger as much as I am about the grittiness before the break. If I pull real slow and controlled, it will stack about twice and then break. I want it to break clean. Did this help with that?
Mine does the same thing. Not nearly as smooth as a Glock which stacks to a defined wall and then breaks cleanly.
Need a real table don't you think. Nice job polishing the parts.
Yeah, I was just working on my bed and decided to film this to share.
Bruh you has me feeling like I was a gun Smith I was able to get this job done off this video in the link you put in other comments it's seems more crisp to me haven't shot it yet but thanks for the help.🤜🏾
Any time my man.
Without the "bruh", this was a very professional and informative demo.
My ONLY complaint is the insanely low volume!!! Lol Otherwise awesome!!
im struggling putting the trigger spring back on, where do i loop the spring onto the trigger? I know where it goes on the frame i just cant figure out where to fasten on the trigger. Any advice?
Did you figure it out? I tried to make everything as clear as I could in the video. Let me know.
@@hymanjarrett8345 The small trigger spring has the 2 loops on it, im stuck trying to figure where the loop attatches to the trigger. I see where it goes onto the frame but I dont see how the loop attatches to the trigger. I didnt see you take the small spring out of the trigger
@@CajunTactical assuming you didn’t figure it out yet, there is a little notch on the trigger housing towards the front. It looks like a tiny little silver tab. Just a little finger. The front of the sprint is bent so it can slide horizontally onto that little metal catch. I recommend a small flat head screw driver, pry the spring up, grab it with your fingers, stretch it so you have a decent grip with two fingers, then use the screw driver to slowly push the ring over the little tab piece. If your trigger is installed in the right place, it will be hard to miss the contact point in speaking of. It’s in front of the trigger.
Has anyone tried to do this yet?
A lot of people... and it works really good to even out the random trigger pull weight problem as well. (For a long time people have been having trouble with the GX4 trigger not being consistent. They can pull the trigger one time and it can be 8lbs, but then the next trigger pull will be 6lbs. It's been a problem since they came out and some people won't carry them, because of that. Just simply polishing them like this fixes that problem though. Was your sear always silver? (I think they're usually black. That's why I'm asking. Don't recall ever seeing a silver one before that wasn't polished. There are ways to polish them without removing the black finish also, but it's not easy and probably won't be polished quite as smooth).
What # of grit paper?
I used 200 and 2500 grit paper.
Actually that should have said 2000 and 2500 grit paper.