The fact that he still wears a sweater that he got in 1984 is proof positive that this man can fix / save / rebuild absolutely anything. The sheer number of wash cycles that thing has been through is mind boggling. Not to mention all the welding, sparks, grime & chemicals it's been exposed to over the last 37 years. Absolutely incredible. Great job sir!
Figured, from such a great informative video, on an evo, I knew there would at least 1 ass, that would comment on something that had nothing to with the content. I personally could care less what the dude is wearing, I watch, to learn. You must watch to joke. Yep your the 1 ass!!!
I really appreciate and enjoy your work, I am a car mechanic but the amount of knowledge that you have, it tells me that you have a genuine love for these H.D engines these 80cube evos very rarely fail but its nice to see how a bolt could possibly block a oil gallery ,this and information on the shovel bottom end as in the Timken bearing spacer these tips could save a person a lot of time and money thank you very much.
Answered a lot of questions I had on this subject.I am using Ultima crank cases and many of the holes didn't match the old cases/gaskets/pump etc. watching this cleared that up for me. Thanks
Love watching your assembly vids always nice to see someone as thorough as my self, wish you were on the east coast, you I would probably trust to work on my bikes, but alas I am stuck doing it my self lol.
You’re like the Swedish Chef of Harley engine building lol..but in all seriousness I’m extremely impressed at your candidness and no nonsense approach and your video’s are easy to watch without being boring or distracting with nonsensical added fluff. Good job! 👍🏼👍🏼
congratulations! nice and neat job and extremely didactic...Thanks a lot for showing how this engine has to be repaired....( I did notice your careful oiling of the gears and pieces before assembly)....Keep on!
oil is a good thing, the motor likes it. the assembly lube i use will stay put for many years so when it comes time to fire it up the motor will be ready to go. tatro
Claude Ranupas Im pointing out, oil flow and oil pressure are symbiotic, but pressure is only reduced by increasing the flow, or purging it. Reduction of oil volume in a BB Chevy is achieved by exploiting the oils speciffic flow resistance characteristics (viscosity ) through the mill's complete operating temperature range, and that point is without any doubt the tip of rocker arm. The pressure relief is achieved in the oil pump, (or if its loss at higher temps its worn cam bearings) through the pressure bypass galley. Not dusputing your knowledge, its obvious, you dismissed as unimportant, more details and speciffics than most mechanics ever learn. Just tossed that out there. I know there is bleedback (or not as per design intentions) at the lifter plunger, and excessive clearance between lifter body O.D. and lifter bore I.D. maybe there lies the variable. Pretty easy to measure that though, if it fit's oil spits!
Another great vid Tatro got my sub an Thumbs up. Its Nicer watching you work by yourself without the distraction of stooges,Your very knowledgeable about your buisness Boss Thanks I've Learned alot
I am french some words you use are difficult to understand for me. Good job,and good and good tutoriel. Well done, i will see you others vidéos. Thanks from France !!!
The type of cam cover depends from what type crank shaft you use.In that case the crank cases and the cam cover doesn't match .Is there a problem with the breather?
Hi Keenan Great idea, red assembly oil so you don't notice the blood when you cut your finger. :-) What are you using for assembly oil? It is so refreshing to watch someone who takes pride in their work. Cheers Willy
It's an evo, they're known for lifters to wear out, why wouldn't you replace them? You got the motor clear out of the bike. I do like your videos, and thanks for showing me.
everything wears out at some point. there is nothing wrong with a good used part that has proven to work already. you can't say that for all new parts. tatro
cool video, however you will NEVER get that cam cover off again after using gaskacinch on both sides...including cover. definitely cool for holding gasket in place while installing cover, however in my opinion, not necessary for sealing purposes. IMO. that stuff is wicked. works great installing oil pan gaskets.ETC. Would also be very careful around those oil passages. just my own overview. you can take it or leave it.
i will leave it. gasgacinch works good and i have been using it for 45 years and my dad that again. i don't even use gaskets on parts of my race bikes, just gasgacinch. if you know how to work on your bike you would know how to get that cover off and use good sealer. i show how all the time. 3 bond bites hard too, all good sealers do. tatro
im thinking of getting a big twin,coz i love my1200 but its a bit small physically.would you say the evo engine is the best?i'm not sure about the newer engines as i've never had a fuel injected bike and the horror stories put me off.but then i see twin cams with 60-80k on them.whats the truth ?any advice welcome.
Billy S. Great job! Trying to find the second video you were referring to on this rebuild , but have been unable to locate. Can you tell me what it is called?
please repeat what you said at 6:56 about installing a longer fastener blocking oil.. I am getting a horrible clunking sound down there after rebuilding everything BUT the bottom end.. including ignition system. the timing cover seems very hot but read only 98° after sitting 20 minutes. I was thinking I may have starved motor for oil due to reversed lines. this makes most sense tho.. please tell me the length of both. I will remove it in a little bit and post the results of this inspection. thanks
Trato i need help, ive got a 1985 fxef evo,just changed the oil and now the front cylinder isn't firing can you give me a couple reasons why this happens ,i live in Canada thats why i cant make it to your shop , thanks dude
Do you find the Ultima cases and engines to be as good as say S&S ? I have seen you often use and you sell the Ultima nose cone ignition you find its quality to be as good as Dyna? Sincere Thanks you have been a major help to me.
both s&s and ultima have good and bad parts about them. the ignitions are good but i have had some failures this year. they were warinity and replaced. ultima stands by their parts more then s&s. tatro
Tatro Machine so basically I have to tear down that side of the motor just to replace the breather gear only? Ouch. Too bad the previous owner didn't replace the plastic gear with an S&S when it was rebuilt 1000 miles ago.
You mentioned 2 plugs on the Time 1:12:23 on my 97 evo drips oil from there if you plug the hose it’s a touch to the plug and I get a different breed her on top do you think I can fix my problem or what can I do to fix the problem? Thanks.
most all breather oiling problems are from bad rings. plugging holes dose not fix these problems. the blow-by pressure will find a place to come out. tatro
just pull the oil return line off the oil filter and run the motor until you see clean oil. you will burn 1-2 qts of oil doing this but you will clean out the complete system. tatro
blakegriplingph I can’t speak specifically without comparing one to one but typically speaking the aftermarket cases has been strengthened in areas that tend to wear or break in the factory cases. Sometimes they update or improve the bearings, either sizes or types. Usually the threads are a little stronger. On a standard OEM HD case I like to stay on the low end of my torque spec so as not to pull out the threads. A lot of times the cases are built for bigger cylinders from the get go so you don’t crest weak spots by modifying something that wasn’t necessarily designed to be modified in that way. Sometimes they make changes to the liking system. Finally depending on the age of the engine being built the new cases are typically cast using newer/better techniques, equipment and technology.
blakegriplingph I don’t know that aftermarket cases are all that much better than HD OEM pieces, in some cases aftermarket is all you can get or afford. They all have their weaknesses and strong points and they will all have to be worked on at some time.
Ive used a few different gasket chemicals like "gasgacinch", everyone Ive used had caused my gaskets too swell making them to large. Tatro, jave you ever had that issue wity gasgacinch ? Anyone ?
No torque wrench on aluminum case cap screws and I can’t believe he didn’t clean and re-paint the lifter blocks and oil filter housing before installing on those new cases.
no i don't think so. it probably needs a 1/4" longer pinion shaft and you will have a big problem with those stock small evo piston pin bushings. oh, and those short ass rods. the big problem is the pushrod alignment problem with the pushrod covers. just buy the bigass evo motor you want and make things easy on yourself. i like the 107" and 120" motors. tatro
Bad thing is... got a good deal on the cases.....and they're sitting in the garage. Guy said the tappet block/guides are offset to fix the pushrod problem. From what I'm seeing it needs to be a 5 piece crank with a 1/4 in longer pinion. After catching some of you vid.... I was hoping to be able to use a 3 piece with a longer pinion. Digging you channel. Thanks for the input
just buy the correct crank from ultima that fits. i don't remember if they use the stock or offset lifter bolcks. either way you will have to have them and the heads cut for the correct pushrod angles. the ultima website should have the instructions on what needs to be done in their tech area. they do offer the machining to do this for you. you will have to use a dealer like me to have it done. email me if you need help on any of this. tatro
plug up you nose and mouth and see how that works for you. everything needs to breath some. its called air flow and pressure differential. you are either helping it or fighting it. tatro
why is it all my other style motorcycles don't have this '' rotating air flow mover gear??? how much blow by is forced down to that cam area ??? and my last great comment is this; i am just now learning about Harley Davidson repair from you... so i have learn a lot from YOU... it has changed my life for the better. i am not afraid of Harley Davidson engines any longer like i was you make look easy to take a part and repair. it has saved me lots of $$$... i work on 30th & imperIal in san diego, Calif.... just so you know... i drive by your shop everyday. just trying to fine a reason to walk in and talk to you or buy parts for my 1990 FXRP...
your fxr has the same breather design. all harleys that have the flywheels in the oil system use this design. it is needed to get the oil out of the flywheel cavity. tatro
no, harley used the ina caged caged bearings. i use the torrington or koyo full compliment cam bearings. they will take the abouse that harley puts out. tatro
I've compared all the above and used them continuously since the 1970s on multibrand paper gaskets. I never make any assertion I've not proven in practice. I wouldn't buy the spray since it's more awkward but I end up with leftover cans from my upholsterybro. Indian Head is much older and a shellac compound (uses rosin per the MSDS, which I use to figure out what's in stuff I like!) but also works fine as we all know. 3M is the original "gorilla snot" (we're old and know this but noobs may not) due to the color and resemblance to snot when applied by tube. None of them are the least bit prone to failure when correctly applied nor is any more difficult to remove than another. Of course most gasket failures are due to poor surface prep, leaving damage and burrs and general sloppiness. Even light grease or petrolatum does a passable job on paper gaskets needing periodic removal IF the mechanic ensured the surfaces were flat first. IMO the modern fancy cover gaskets mostly exist to tolerate sloppy work paper does not. I also do vintage Britbikes and even those SOBs are reasonably oil tight given careful prep to make up for decades of distortion due to overtorque and abuse. The sealer I like the least is RTV, mostly because mongoloids overdose it and I don't like cleaning it out of lubrication systems but modern cars require it so I use it per spec on those. They all have their place. For fuel (gas or diesel) or hydraulic (not under pressure obviously) wetted joints you don't particularly want to take apart but REALLY need to seal with zero weepage aircraft fuel tank sealant is magnificent. We used to snag expired date tubes before the Air Force cared about tracking waste. I buy it from Aircraft Spruce today. The Semkit tubes are easy to mix without special tools and how to turn the impeller will be obvious. We used visegrips on the flightline because only Fuel Shop had the expensive mixer. Every mechanic should buy a kit to play with because ya won't use it often but when needed nothing else is close, like when I saved my bros (overpriced as usual) leaking John Deere fuel gauge sender rather than him getting assraped for a new assembly. The Structural troops showed me a great trick for all curing sealants and epoxies they use. After installing the part, leave a fat waste blob in the bottom of a soda can (their usual mixing pallet for small stuff) and cut it in half when cure time is up. If the blob is cured so is your workpiece.Thanks for all your useful videos!
If you're tired of the repeated comments, maybe do a few short videos showing serval tools in one go, all the chemicals in one video, etc. and label them clearly. Maybe make an FAQ playlist? Not bossing you around but it might save some bullshit in the long run
Hi, maybe you can help me out. I have a 96" Ultima Evolution motor I bought as a short block about 10 Years ago. It has a 520 lift cam with high duration (Duration:262 Intake 272 exhaust). I was running a Thunderheader exhaust. The power band kick in at about 3900 rpm. Now I'm going back to a stock quiet restrictive exhaust. Yes that's right I said stock quiet exhaust. I am over 50 years old now and I want to listen to the radio and cruse comfortably. I'm looking for a cam that has good low end torque between 1500 to 3500 rpm. What would you recommend. Thanks Mike
use a ev13 andrews cam for max torque or a ev-27 for all around fun up to 5200 rpm. both are .500 lift. with these two cams you will need lots of gear to calm down the vibrating of this long stroke motor. you can do it with gearing or a 6-speed gear set. tatro
I have been watching your channel in silence for some years now. however I am looking at buying a 1997 eco fatboy. it has done 100000 km, 62000 miles I believe. other than a standard cam replacement, he says the engine has never been touched. can I ask you view on this please, and if yo believe there could be some thing serious about to Wong with the motor. Lee Copas, from New Zealand
most likely he has taken care of it and it should be good for many more year. good clean oil and keeping the heat down are what makes motors have a long life. oh, don't let me ride it. tatro
You may get tired of questions about the products you use, but what I WANT to know is; Where can I GET a high tech gluing board like the one you use to pucky up your gaskets?!? ;-) Have all these cardboard boxes laying around and no idea what to do with them......... ;-P (Signed yours truly, the typical internet user)
Hey Tatro what do you think of the Ultima El bruto motors particularly the 113 in how are the bottom ends on these motors in your opinion who makes the best aftermarket motors? As always thanks for your knowledge!!
TATRO I want you to write a book of interchangability,seriously,i will give the first hundred for the knowledge,it would probably be a best seller in short order,no shit,the pitfalls and perils of Harley engine and transmission building,i'm now in the process of writing one on rear wheel overdrives on American cars from 1955 forward,please consider it,i WANT YOUR KNOWLEDGE,anytime you need info on automobile units email me,consider what've said,instant cash for you,the public would appreciate it,do not take your genius to the grave, bud
YOU SHOULD SELL YOUR VIDEOS TO HARLEY DAVIDSON ON HOW TO DO IT BETTER THAN PROPPER = EXCELLENT TEACHING VIDEO CAPTAIN SIR MASTER TATRO ! HOORAY FOR EXCELLENCE .
@@TatroMachine do the new cases come with numbers or a "MSO?" I have everything but no cases. I'm just wondering how to get this smaller motor put together for my 1999 fatboy. I want to take out my S&S 124. Put back in an 80 inch. Maybe a 96.
@@TatroMachine lol. I think we are talking in circles. I can buy these cases put everything I have for an 80 incher into them. Then have a complete motor? That's all I'm missing is the cases.
i sell everything you see me using in my videos. just email me a list of what you need and i will work up a quote for you. 80ci and 88ci are the two best sizes for the smaller motors. 88ci will require bigbore cylinders which look biger than stock and are about 3/16" shorter than stock cylinders. these are nice for the fxr bikes. tatro
i see oil mist leaking out of air filters of Harleys even my sons new 2017 Road Glide and that 1990 FXRP, it will leave a build-up in the air cleaner housing ??? what is this mist ??? on you tube i watch a Harley Dealership Tech say; all Harleys have this problem of oil mist in air filter housing .... is this true ????
only if you have your motor breather connected to your intake. i don't, so i don't have that problem. these new motors are way undered breathered. the older motors have way bigger ones for better high rpm performance. tatro
@@TatroMachine lol how did I know that was coming so if I take my bike to a dealership to get worked on they don’t use a torque wrench ?they are certified and know what their doing?? That’s bullshit it has nothing to do with knowing it’s called pride and quality and doing shit the right way especially someone else’s.
and who says harley knows what they are doing. have you ever seen them not make major changes after they came out with anything. don't fool yourself, they learn as they go just like everyone else. i have landspeed records and championships because i know what i am doing. its called skill. tatro
@@TatroMachine blah blah blah that don’t mean you’re not a hack mr.torque wrench arm,maybe you got the white collars jeti mind tricked into thinking you’re so good you don’t need to torque how about a we ask ten masters what they think? Guarantee all ten will agree with me.they don’t formulate torque specs and process,anti seize for stainless and calcs.when using extensions etc etc for no reason but you keep telling yourself that 👍🏻
YOU need to learn how to PAUSE your recording instead of mumbling incoherently, while you attempt to THINK your next step ... ENUNCIATE - ENUNCIATE - ENUNCIATE I spent WAY to much time RE-WINDING to hear WHAT you were actually Saying Thanks for the VIDEO - quite informative
that is my thought process and is the most important part of a learning video. this crap is not staged, it is real world and that is how it is done. not showing this would make it a fake video. tatro
I'm NOT sure pushing on the STATOR with a METAL SCREWDRIVER would build TRUST & CONFIDENCE in ME as a customer at LEAST place a thin sheet of PLASTIC (as in cut piece of plastic from a Laundry Detergent or Bleach bottle) between your STATOR & Screwdriver Blade ... You video plainly shows the SCUFFS & MARS in the metal portion of the STATOR after you finally STUFF the Plug through the HOLE in the Case ... IMHO & no - I do NOT allow Harley "TECHS" work on my vintage EVO ... they have forgotten way too MUCH !
i think i will pass. its amassing how my customers don't seem to care about how i do things because it works. have you ever seen how harley tecks do bikes. they only make money if they rush things together and don't care too much about the details like i do. tatro
I see 4 things wrong here 1. not a 1997 block 2. wrong gasket 3. wrong ignition for a 1997 4 wrong cam cover for the block. I stop watching 12 minutes in so there mite be more.....
maybe you should have watched more of the video and learned something. unlike a harley dealer i use other then oem parts. the case is a ultima replacement case so it is correct for the application. the gasket is correct for the 1997 cam cover. just because the case has a breather cavity does not mean that you have to use it. the crank is a 1997 and so is the cam cover so all the parts are correct for that year range parts, 1993-1999. i install an ignition that works and makes power, not the harley crap. tatro
for being an expert you sure don't know your ass from a hole in the ground. look closer before you start yapping. where are the breather holes if i am a dumbass? look in the mirror and you will see one. tatro
Авто/Мото
The fact that he still wears a sweater that he got in 1984 is proof positive that this man can fix / save / rebuild absolutely anything. The sheer number of wash cycles that thing has been through is mind boggling. Not to mention all the welding, sparks, grime & chemicals it's been exposed to over the last 37 years. Absolutely incredible. Great job sir!
Haaaa I bought him a few new ones a few years ago but he never took a liking to them
Wash cycles what ? I doubt its ever been washed
Figured, from such a great informative video, on an evo,
I knew there would at least 1 ass, that would comment on something that had nothing to with the content.
I personally could care less what the dude is wearing,
I watch, to learn.
You must watch to joke.
Yep your the 1 ass!!!
@@metalted6128 sorry for hurting your feelings. Jeeez
I really appreciate and enjoy your work, I am a car mechanic but the amount of knowledge that you have, it tells me that you have a genuine love for these H.D engines these 80cube evos very rarely fail but its nice to see how a bolt could possibly block a oil gallery ,this and information on the shovel bottom end as in the Timken bearing spacer these tips could save a person a lot of time and money thank you very much.
Answered a lot of questions I had on this subject.I am using Ultima crank cases and many of the holes didn't match the old cases/gaskets/pump etc. watching this cleared that up for me. Thanks
Love watching your assembly vids always nice to see someone as thorough as my self, wish you were on the east coast, you I would probably trust to work on my bikes, but alas I am stuck doing it my self lol.
good, that is the best way. that way you know who to blame when it breaks.
tatro
You’re like the Swedish Chef of Harley engine building lol..but in all seriousness I’m extremely impressed at your candidness and no nonsense approach and your video’s are easy to watch without being boring or distracting with nonsensical added fluff. Good job! 👍🏼👍🏼
I fully agree with your statement I think that's great and I just had been engine builder
Vert du furk!!!LOL
You the man, about time someone with a no non since having guy, straight and to the point, hopefully your still at it 🤘🤘
Muchas gracias por el video me acaba de aclarar una DUDA, Reitero ¡¡¡MUCHAS GRACIA!!!.
Saludos desde la Ciudad de México.
Many thanks for your channel here. It's a huge help.
congratulations! nice and neat job and extremely didactic...Thanks a lot for showing how this engine has to be repaired....( I did notice your careful oiling of the gears and pieces before assembly)....Keep on!
oil is a good thing, the motor likes it. the assembly lube i use will stay put for many years so when it comes time to fire it up the motor will be ready to go.
tatro
Claude Ranupas Im pointing out, oil flow and oil pressure are symbiotic, but pressure is only reduced by increasing the flow, or purging it. Reduction of oil volume in a BB Chevy is achieved by exploiting the oils speciffic flow resistance characteristics (viscosity ) through the mill's complete operating temperature range, and that point is without any doubt the tip of rocker arm. The pressure relief is achieved in the oil pump, (or if its loss at higher temps its worn cam bearings) through the pressure bypass galley. Not dusputing your knowledge, its obvious, you dismissed as unimportant, more details and speciffics than most mechanics ever learn. Just tossed that out there. I know there is bleedback (or not as per design intentions) at the lifter plunger, and excessive clearance between lifter body O.D. and lifter bore I.D. maybe there lies the variable. Pretty easy to measure that though, if it fit's oil spits!
Great video Tatro. You really know your stuff.
Good job I'm going to save this video in case I do an overhaul some day.
.... holy smokes you are one smart dude.... thanks for the vid....!!!!
Another great vid Tatro got my sub an Thumbs up. Its Nicer watching you work by yourself without the distraction of stooges,Your very knowledgeable about your buisness Boss Thanks I've Learned alot
Aunque no se mucho inglés, el video en sí es muy explícito, GRACIAS POR SU VIDEO pude arreglar la moto HARLEY Low Ryder 1998, ¡¡¡GRACIAS!!!
good job and keep it up.
tatro
I would love to spend some time wrenching and learning from this guy. The tricks of the motors and better ways of improving. Awesome video
Like I’ve said before. He is a legend
Love these videos. Anyone who’s shop looks like that and rebuilds engines in their Christmas sweater is cut from the same cloth as me.
oh crap, look out.
tatro
Cool video i love my 80 inch evo.In 50 years they will come out as the best motor.Cool video you old alley dog.
Thanks for your video, very helpful and informative thanks.
Thanks for the video - appreciate it
Many invisible demons on this build!! LMAO!! You do great work Tatro!
Thanks for sharing the knowledge & information
I don't even have an Evo at the moment but I've watched this video twice lol
1:53……unless it’s a Ford intake? Lol. Love your videos Tatro
I am french some words you use are difficult to understand for me.
Good job,and good and good tutoriel. Well done, i will see you others vidéos. Thanks from France !!!
The type of cam cover depends from what type crank shaft you use.In that case the crank cases and the cam cover doesn't match .Is there a problem with the breather?
I liked the video; enjoyed it. Liked and subbed, great content !
Thanks for the help
Proof that evo engine is the best! If it can survive all of that contamination
Great vid, thanks !!
Hi Keenan
Great idea, red assembly oil so you don't notice the blood when you cut your finger. :-)
What are you using for assembly oil?
It is so refreshing to watch someone who takes pride in their work.
Cheers
Willy
blood actually floats on top of oil but mixes with water. now how do i know that.
torco assembly lube.
tatro
Great video sir.
Orange essence is a great solvent...and natural.
Would you happen to know what year Evo’s (possibly 1998 1999 but maybe even earlier years) were cast for Harley/Davidson by Mercury Marine?
It's an evo, they're known for lifters to wear out, why wouldn't you replace them? You got the motor clear out of the bike. I do like your videos, and thanks for showing me.
everything wears out at some point. there is nothing wrong with a good used part that has proven to work already. you can't say that for all new parts.
tatro
cool video, however you will NEVER get that cam cover off again after using gaskacinch on both sides...including cover. definitely cool for holding gasket in place while installing cover, however in my opinion, not necessary for sealing purposes. IMO. that stuff is wicked. works great installing oil pan gaskets.ETC. Would also be very careful around those oil passages. just my own overview. you can take it or leave it.
i will leave it. gasgacinch works good and i have been using it for 45 years and my dad that again. i don't even use gaskets on parts of my race bikes, just gasgacinch. if you know how to work on your bike you would know how to get that cover off and use good sealer. i show how all the time. 3 bond bites hard too, all good sealers do.
tatro
im thinking of getting a big twin,coz i love my1200 but its a bit small physically.would you say the evo engine is the best?i'm not sure about the newer engines as i've never had a fuel injected bike and the horror stories put me off.but then i see twin cams with 60-80k on them.whats the truth ?any advice welcome.
just about and 90's evo bike with a new aftermarket big inch motor in it will be a good fast and reliable ride.
tatro
Billy S.
Great job! Trying to find the second video you were referring to on this rebuild , but have been unable to locate. Can you tell me what it is called?
go find the playlist. they will play in order than.
tatro
please repeat what you said at 6:56 about installing a longer fastener blocking oil.. I am getting a horrible clunking sound down there after rebuilding everything BUT the bottom end.. including ignition system. the timing cover seems very hot but read only 98° after sitting 20 minutes.
I was thinking I may have starved motor for oil due to reversed lines. this makes most sense tho..
please tell me the length of both. I will remove it in a little bit and post the results of this inspection.
thanks
sorry.. 1988 FLSTC 1340 EVO 80 ci
you only need about a 1/2" to 5/8" engagement of the screw. anymore then this and you might block the feed hole.
tatro
Trato i need help, ive got a 1985 fxef evo,just changed the oil and now the front cylinder isn't firing can you give me a couple reasons why this happens ,i live in Canada thats why i cant make it to your shop , thanks dude
Thanks grate job learned a lot do you have a video of 1988 1340 cam and timing
they are all the same, just watch any of the bigtwin videos.
tatro
Do you find the Ultima cases and engines to be as good as say S&S ? I have seen you often use and you sell the Ultima nose cone ignition you find its quality to be as good as Dyna?
Sincere Thanks you have been a major help to me.
both s&s and ultima have good and bad parts about them.
the ignitions are good but i have had some failures this year. they were warinity and replaced. ultima stands by their parts more then s&s.
tatro
How do you know which thrust washer to use on the S&S metal breather gear? Do you just match the size of the OEM one?
put the cam cover on and measure it. you can see it thought the rear tappet block hole. watch the videos and you see how i do things.
tatro
Tatro Machine so basically I have to tear down that side of the motor just to replace the breather gear only? Ouch. Too bad the previous owner didn't replace the plastic gear with an S&S when it was rebuilt 1000 miles ago.
that's how it goes with real harleys.
tatro
Some dial in their cams and need to get to the ignition side but not on a full rebuild like that. But that why they mess with the ignition.
Is it ok to use the Allen type screws/bolts on the lifter blocks?
Why not?
You mentioned 2 plugs on the Time 1:12:23 on my 97 evo drips oil from there if you plug the hose it’s a touch to the plug and I get a different breed her on top do you think I can fix my problem or what can I do to fix the problem?
Thanks.
most all breather oiling problems are from bad rings. plugging holes dose not fix these problems. the blow-by pressure will find a place to come out.
tatro
Magic...
On a 1997 EVO 80 CI , is there a procedure to flush all the oil out of the motor on an oil and filter change ??
just pull the oil return line off the oil filter and run the motor until you see clean oil. you will burn 1-2 qts of oil doing this but you will clean out the complete system.
tatro
What's your take on the S&S Reed type breather as opposed to the geared ?
reed
www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/ss-crankcase-reed-breather-valve-for-harley-evo-big-twin-1993-1999?gclid=Cj0KCQiAw9nUBRCTARIsAG11eicVhNVZWCVSPuyx_yljpVn7cnCYQD9cklXtvB58zqjz88Ijr2z74JMaAo8qEALw_wcB
Just seems like having one less moving part would be a good thing ?
Besides that great videos, thanks for all the info
I've been running mine in my Blockhead since '08 never a problem. works great, If I slap another Evo together, yeah I'll buy one again
this guy is the black magic wizard
How are these third-party/aftermarket cases any better than the ones by HD?
blakegriplingph I can’t speak specifically without comparing one to one but typically speaking the aftermarket cases has been strengthened in areas that tend to wear or break in the factory cases.
Sometimes they update or improve the bearings, either sizes or types. Usually the threads are a little stronger. On a standard OEM HD case I like to stay on the low end of my torque spec so as not to pull out the threads.
A lot of times the cases are built for bigger cylinders from the get go so you don’t crest weak spots by modifying something that wasn’t necessarily designed to be modified in that way.
Sometimes they make changes to the liking system.
Finally depending on the age of the engine being built the new cases are typically cast using newer/better techniques, equipment and technology.
blakegriplingph I don’t know that aftermarket cases are all that much better than HD OEM pieces, in some cases aftermarket is all you can get or afford.
They all have their weaknesses and strong points and they will all have to be worked on at some time.
Ive used a few different gasket chemicals like "gasgacinch", everyone Ive used had caused my gaskets too swell making them to large. Tatro, jave you ever had that issue wity gasgacinch ? Anyone ?
i like it because it works. i have not had that swelling issue with james gaskets.
tatro
No torque wrench on aluminum case cap screws and I can’t believe he didn’t clean and re-paint the lifter blocks and oil filter housing before installing on those new cases.
Can you use a oem crankshaft on the ultima fatso cases ? If so what works, and do you have to change anything?
Thanks
no i don't think so. it probably needs a 1/4" longer pinion shaft and you will have a big problem with those stock small evo piston pin bushings. oh, and those short ass rods.
the big problem is the pushrod alignment problem with the pushrod covers.
just buy the bigass evo motor you want and make things easy on yourself. i like the 107" and 120" motors.
tatro
Bad thing is... got a good deal on the cases.....and they're sitting in the garage. Guy said the tappet block/guides are offset to fix the pushrod problem. From what I'm seeing it needs to be a 5 piece crank with a 1/4 in longer pinion. After catching some of you vid.... I was hoping to be able to use a 3 piece with a longer pinion.
Digging you channel. Thanks for the input
just buy the correct crank from ultima that fits. i don't remember if they use the stock or offset lifter bolcks. either way you will have to have them and the heads cut for the correct pushrod angles.
the ultima website should have the instructions on what needs to be done in their tech area. they do offer the machining to do this for you. you will have to use a dealer like me to have it done. email me if you need help on any of this.
tatro
The blocks I have are supposed to be offset. Probably just going to have to buy the ultima....probably less headache in it.
Thanks again
Can you use stp for puting lifter back in or what you use
stp is not a lubricant, its an additive for your oil.
tatro
Another Great Video... what does the breather do for this motor ???
plug up you nose and mouth and see how that works for you. everything needs to breath some. its called air flow and pressure differential. you are either helping it or fighting it.
tatro
why is it all my other style motorcycles don't have this '' rotating air flow mover gear??? how much blow by is forced down to that cam area ??? and my last great comment is this; i am just now learning about Harley Davidson repair from you... so i have learn a lot from YOU... it has changed my life for the better. i am not afraid of Harley Davidson engines any longer like i was you make look easy to take a part and repair. it has saved me lots of $$$... i work on 30th & imperIal in san diego, Calif.... just so you know... i drive by your shop everyday. just trying to fine a reason to walk in and talk to you or buy parts for my 1990 FXRP...
your fxr has the same breather design. all harleys that have the flywheels in the oil system use this design. it is needed to get the oil out of the flywheel cavity.
tatro
I'm surrounded by YoYo's of my own invention!
Jj
What's your opinion for S&S reed valve ?
use them all the time on all years.
tatro
"Not that I've ever done that"
Says everyone that has done that.
john smit
I was told inner cam bearings were good ones 97-99 Evos! Is that true???
no, harley used the ina caged caged bearings. i use the torrington or koyo full compliment cam bearings. they will take the abouse that harley puts out.
tatro
If the quality of after market parts goes down anymore, you're going to have to pre, pre assembly.
Gasgacinch (brush) = 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (tube) = (spray version for large gaskets) 3M Headliner and Fabric adhesive. Generic "gorilla snot" substitutions abound.
another dumbass, just because they look similar does not make them the same. ketchup and tabasco sauce look similar but i would not mix them.
tatro
3M weatherstrip is way too strong. Headliner spray is too. It's nothing like gaskacinch or Indian Head.
I've compared all the above and used them continuously since the 1970s on multibrand paper gaskets. I never make any assertion I've not proven in practice. I wouldn't buy the spray since it's more awkward but I end up with leftover cans from my upholsterybro. Indian Head is much older and a shellac compound (uses rosin per the MSDS, which I use to figure out what's in stuff I like!) but also works fine as we all know. 3M is the original "gorilla snot" (we're old and know this but noobs may not) due to the color and resemblance to snot when applied by tube. None of them are the least bit prone to failure when correctly applied nor is any more difficult to remove than another. Of course most gasket failures are due to poor surface prep, leaving damage and burrs and general sloppiness. Even light grease or petrolatum does a passable job on paper gaskets needing periodic removal IF the mechanic ensured the surfaces were flat first. IMO the modern fancy cover gaskets mostly exist to tolerate sloppy work paper does not. I also do vintage Britbikes and even those SOBs are reasonably oil tight given careful prep to make up for decades of distortion due to overtorque and abuse. The sealer I like the least is RTV, mostly because mongoloids overdose it and I don't like cleaning it out of lubrication systems but modern cars require it so I use it per spec on those. They all have their place. For fuel (gas or diesel) or hydraulic (not under pressure obviously) wetted joints you don't particularly want to take apart but REALLY need to seal with zero weepage aircraft fuel tank sealant is magnificent. We used to snag expired date tubes before the Air Force cared about tracking waste. I buy it from Aircraft Spruce today. The Semkit tubes are easy to mix without special tools and how to turn the impeller will be obvious. We used visegrips on the flightline because only Fuel Shop had the expensive mixer. Every mechanic should buy a kit to play with because ya won't use it often but when needed nothing else is close, like when I saved my bros (overpriced as usual) leaking John Deere fuel gauge sender rather than him getting assraped for a new assembly. The Structural troops showed me a great trick for all curing sealants and epoxies they use. After installing the part, leave a fat waste blob in the bottom of a soda can (their usual mixing pallet for small stuff) and cut it in half when cure time is up. If the blob is cured so is your workpiece.Thanks for all your useful videos!
Haha whatever you say man,you go shared and fly on his plane 👍🏻
congrats u put those nasty old lifter blocks on that new motor nice
What kind of sealant anymore u using?
Are
look at the labels or listen.
tatro
Greeting mechanic
👍👍🤠
If you're tired of the repeated comments, maybe do a few short videos showing serval tools in one go, all the chemicals in one video, etc. and label them clearly. Maybe make an FAQ playlist? Not bossing you around but it might save some bullshit in the long run
the newbys don't know about how my playlist work and they would still ask the same questions.
tatro
👍🏼👍🏼🖖🏽😉😉✌🏽
What's the cost to take a stock evo and make it blow twin cams in the weeds ?
a cam, carb and ignition should get the job done.
tatro
Tatro Machine thanks for your time do you think ev27 a supper e cam will do it oh yea what ignition thanks again
Get a Dynatek or Ultima single fire ignition. Buy as a complete kit with coil and it will really wake the bike up.
Bom irmão 🙋🇧🇷🇧🇷🙋🙋🇧🇷🇧🇷👁️👁️
May I ask where are you located
Hi, maybe you can help me out. I have a 96" Ultima Evolution motor I bought as a short block about 10 Years ago. It has a 520 lift cam with high duration (Duration:262 Intake 272 exhaust). I was running a Thunderheader exhaust. The power band kick in at about 3900 rpm. Now I'm going back to a stock quiet restrictive exhaust. Yes that's right I said stock quiet exhaust. I am over 50 years old now and I want to listen to the radio and cruse comfortably. I'm looking for a cam that has good low end torque between 1500 to 3500 rpm. What would you recommend. Thanks Mike
use a ev13 andrews cam for max torque or a ev-27 for all around fun up to 5200 rpm. both are .500 lift. with these two cams you will need lots of gear to calm down the vibrating of this long stroke motor. you can do it with gearing or a 6-speed gear set.
tatro
I have been watching your channel in silence for some years now. however I am looking at buying a 1997 eco fatboy. it has done 100000 km, 62000 miles I believe. other than a standard cam replacement, he says the engine has never been touched. can I ask you view on this please, and if yo believe there could be some thing serious about to Wong with the motor. Lee Copas, from New Zealand
most likely he has taken care of it and it should be good for many more year. good clean oil and keeping the heat down are what makes motors have a long life.
oh, don't let me ride it.
tatro
You may get tired of questions about the products you use, but what I WANT to know is; Where can I GET a high tech gluing board like the one you use to pucky up your gaskets?!? ;-) Have all these cardboard boxes laying around and no idea what to do with them......... ;-P (Signed yours truly, the typical internet user)
card board boxes are not as good as those thicker cardboard sales backings under that plastic vacuum wrapping.
tatro
Hey Tatro what do you think of the Ultima El bruto motors particularly the 113 in how are the bottom ends on these motors in your opinion who makes the best aftermarket motors? As always thanks for your knowledge!!
A scrap sheet of polyethylene, UHMW, Teflon or a plastic kitchen cutting board work equally well.
Gasket sealer and oil passage holes in the gasket surface do not mix
TATRO I want you to write a book of interchangability,seriously,i will give the first hundred for the knowledge,it would probably be a best seller in short order,no shit,the pitfalls and perils of Harley engine and transmission building,i'm now in the process of writing one on rear wheel overdrives on American cars from 1955 forward,please consider it,i WANT YOUR KNOWLEDGE,anytime you need info on automobile units email me,consider what've said,instant cash for you,the public would appreciate it,do not take your genius to the grave, bud
Really, you got to tell guys how to start the screws?
You sound like Bill Murray
BRIAN THOMPSON Cinderella story of a Harley engine builder....I think he’ll probably go for about .002 clearance on that bearing and ITS IN THE HOLE!
Just missing the loctite ..
YOU SHOULD SELL YOUR VIDEOS TO HARLEY DAVIDSON ON HOW TO DO IT BETTER THAN PROPPER = EXCELLENT TEACHING VIDEO CAPTAIN SIR MASTER TATRO ! HOORAY FOR EXCELLENCE .
Do these come with new case numbers? How do you get them registered?
it is called a mso, manufacturer statement of origin. all states are different but not a big deal as long as you have the paper work.
tatro
@@TatroMachine do the new cases come with numbers or a "MSO?" I have everything but no cases. I'm just wondering how to get this smaller motor put together for my 1999 fatboy. I want to take out my S&S 124. Put back in an 80 inch. Maybe a 96.
@@TatroMachine lol. I think we are talking in circles.
I can buy these cases put everything I have for an 80 incher into them. Then have a complete motor? That's all I'm missing is the cases.
@@TatroMachine where do I get a set of these cases?
i sell everything you see me using in my videos. just email me a list of what you need and i will work up a quote for you.
80ci and 88ci are the two best sizes for the smaller motors. 88ci will require bigbore cylinders which look biger than stock and are about 3/16" shorter than stock cylinders. these are nice for the fxr bikes.
tatro
i see oil mist leaking out of air filters of Harleys even my sons new 2017 Road Glide and that 1990 FXRP, it will leave a build-up in the air cleaner housing ??? what is this mist ??? on you tube i watch a Harley Dealership Tech say; all Harleys have this problem of oil mist in air filter housing .... is this true ????
only if you have your motor breather connected to your intake. i don't, so i don't have that problem.
these new motors are way undered breathered. the older motors have way bigger ones for better high rpm performance.
tatro
nice torque wrench lol
Is the 80the same as1340
one is cubic inchs and the other it cubic centimeters.
tatro
Where all the keyboard mechanics at they finally realized they don’t know anything
not a chance, they are all geniuses in their own minds.
tatro.
Can you imagine if Tatro was your dad and you just fucked something up!
who cares, just fix it. i break crap all the time. don't you watch my videos.
tatro
Right on Tatro! I meant that with all due respect. Love the way you work.
I don't bring my engine to this man.. Sorry
i am good with that.
tatro
Dude do you even own a torque wrench or a motor stand wtf
yes i do annd use them when i need them. the fact is that you don't realy need them if you know what you are doing.
tatro
@@TatroMachine lol how did I know that was coming so if I take my bike to a dealership to get worked on they don’t use a torque wrench ?they are certified and know what their doing?? That’s bullshit it has nothing to do with knowing it’s called pride and quality and doing shit the right way especially someone else’s.
and who says harley knows what they are doing. have you ever seen them not make major changes after they came out with anything. don't fool yourself, they learn as they go just like everyone else.
i have landspeed records and championships because i know what i am doing. its called skill.
tatro
@@TatroMachine blah blah blah that don’t mean you’re not a hack mr.torque wrench arm,maybe you got the white collars jeti mind tricked into thinking you’re so good you don’t need to torque how about a we ask ten masters what they think? Guarantee all ten will agree with me.they don’t formulate torque specs and process,anti seize for stainless and calcs.when using extensions etc etc for no reason but you keep telling yourself that 👍🏻
Think about the skill of the non torque wrench using aircraft mechanic next time you and your family fly.
Siliconed Jims gaskets and factory harley Do not use gasket sealer...SMH
thn you can deal with the leaks. that silicone just slides off and does nothing. are you blind.
tatro
FACE your CONSUMABLES so the Watcher can READ what Brand of Assembly LUBES & Gasket Sealers YOU are using
this is not walmart, it is a real working shop. you get what you get. and its free too.
tatro
HAHA YoYo;s
YOU need to learn how to PAUSE your recording
instead of mumbling incoherently, while you attempt to THINK your next step ...
ENUNCIATE - ENUNCIATE - ENUNCIATE
I spent WAY to much time RE-WINDING to hear WHAT you were actually Saying
Thanks for the VIDEO - quite informative
that is my thought process and is the most important part of a learning video. this crap is not staged, it is real world and that is how it is done. not showing this would make it a fake video.
tatro
Turkey sandwich lady 6835
I'm NOT sure pushing on the STATOR with a METAL SCREWDRIVER would build TRUST & CONFIDENCE in ME as a customer
at LEAST place a thin sheet of PLASTIC (as in cut piece of plastic from a Laundry Detergent or Bleach bottle) between your STATOR & Screwdriver Blade ...
You video plainly shows the SCUFFS & MARS in the metal portion of the STATOR after you finally STUFF the Plug through the HOLE in the Case ...
IMHO
& no - I do NOT allow Harley "TECHS" work on my vintage EVO ... they have forgotten way too MUCH !
i think i will pass. its amassing how my customers don't seem to care about how i do things because it works. have you ever seen how harley tecks do bikes. they only make money if they rush things together and don't care too much about the details like i do.
tatro
I see 4 things wrong here 1. not a 1997 block 2. wrong gasket 3. wrong ignition for a 1997 4 wrong cam cover for the block.
I stop watching 12 minutes in so there mite be more.....
maybe you should have watched more of the video and learned something. unlike a harley dealer i use other then oem parts. the case is a ultima replacement case so it is correct for the application. the gasket is correct for the 1997 cam cover. just because the case has a breather cavity does not mean that you have to use it. the crank is a 1997 and so is the cam cover so all the parts are correct for that year range parts, 1993-1999. i install an ignition that works and makes power, not the harley crap.
tatro
Tatro Machine not sure how you deal with all the "experts" opinions on YT, you're stronger than me. thanks for the upload. have a great day.
Tatro Machine that's right!
for being an expert you sure don't know your ass from a hole in the ground.
look closer before you start yapping.
where are the breather holes if i am a dumbass? look in the mirror and you will see one.
tatro