As an old hand, I appreciate your attention to detail and your vigilance in doing things carefully and professionally. That motor should be good for a LOT more miles. peace
Really appreciate you making this video. I’ve got a 1970 FLH had the motor regasketed a few thousand miles ago. Now she’s blowing oil so want to get the into the pistons and rings. Will definitely be contacting you. Thank you
You didn't show the rocker box setup clearances etc?. Pretty important step?. I use degreaser then contact cleaner to clean the cast engine block. Yeah it costs but time is money and doing it by hand takes a long time. Easy to spray in the tight spots your hands can't get to as well.
Cool video man! First off I want to brag a bit, I got to sit on the stage with NOFX when they did a warp tour one year. A good buddy of mine use to be their bouncer. Second, Did you put those jugs on the pistons, over the rings, by hand? Is it really that simple? Im going to pull my jugs to re-ring them.
Gday - - yeah great vids I've only just gottin onto them wish you were my local bike mech - haven't done the evo vid yet, that's next,, got a 78 1200 shovel(new rebuild 10yrs ago) su carb 3inch belt with jockey shift NEVER started may do in very near future, also got 1340 evo chop having a full rebuild with oversize up to around 90bhp hopefully get it back this year - - keep up the great vids 👍☠️☠️👍 Jake - - Devon UK
i thught your vidio was pretty good shame you had to rush it cause i was trying to brush up on the whole procedure prossess ! my biggest thing im uncertain of is how to get the proper torch spects when you do an in frame top end freashening ! i had two snap-on moon shaped box wrenches but as far a tork i cant remember hw i did it its been about thirty five years ! lol its kinda hard to get a sockett and torck wrench into those nuts on the inner bolts between the jugs and accuratly tork them is there any specsifick style tools needed for that and i was always told too re tork after you finnally reached starting point ! was said start motor run untill it gets hot then let it copleatly cool then retork , then repeat 2more times once you have done this you will be good till the next rebuild ? is this an accurate methode ? thank you in advance for your input and or responce getting ready to do mine 78 but has the S&Ssidewinder big bore kit in it and im not sureuntill it comes apart which exsact kit i have as far as size of bore and comp pistons ! also any recomendations on what style head gasket i should go with for that ? thanks again !
Sorry for the late response! Yah I know its hard to not time-lapse the videos because no one would want to watch a 4 hour video. So there's a bunch of ways to torque the base and headbolts, I have a special torque wrench that can fit in the weird spots. Honestly though I never torque the base nuts and headbolts on shovel/pan stuff anymore. I kind of know the feel of it by now. Head bolts if I remember correctly are 65-70lbs and the only guy I know now days who torques base nuts does them at 35lbs.I usually just go around them in a star or x pattern for the base bolts until they are to desired tightness. But yes always re check them. I usually do a 4-5 heat cycles the first day on break-in and then put some light miles on it. Usually go through and recheck everything around 50miles in and then once I hit the 1000mile mark. Thats a nice kit there! Any name brand head gasket is good but I do like the James gaskets with the Firing rings. Haven't had a single problem with those! Thanks for watching!
@@houseofchoppers cool thanks for the get back bro ! yea i kinda have that same feel for tork myself ive been wrenching since i was 14 and for a living the past 30 years off and on much dirt car racing wrenching so i feel ya when ya say that you can feel it just on exsperiance ill just have to modify some of my snap-on wrenches again i guess to get in to them dam head bolts i had a nice set of moon shaped ones from snap-on but cant find them anymore and i asked the deler from where i used to work if he had any like it his answer was to modify some he doesent have tem or ever known of them ? lol all good though i got welder and torches we can make anything work with a bit of effort lolwell thanks again bro shake it easy !
I usually run the stainless aircraft style intake clamps, Ive used a good variety of them but the trick is to not over tighten. Just get them sun and a bit more and there set!
Thanks a lot man! Its all a preference thing. I personally like the ride and feel of a hardtail a lot better than shocks, I would say go give a Buddys bike a ride who is hard tailed and see for your self!
Thank you for your video!!! i also built my shovelhead big bore !! i have a question 🙋🏻♂️ the cylinder box say for big bore +.200 3-5/8 what’s the +.200 meaning? how to buy pistons for this cylinders for +.200 i am beginner please let me know appreciate and Have a good day Thank you 😊
Thanks for watching! The labeling on the box is what they want the pistons clearances to in the cylinders so when they get honed the machinist knows what tolerances to do them to!
Hey, man. I have a question for you that I hope you'll be able to answer. I've been searching for this with no luck. I have minor oil leaks out of the shaft end bolts on the rocker boxes of my shovelhead (the two bolts at the top on the A side of every shovelhead engine). I've been told that there's an o-ring of some sort that needs to be replaced in order to fix this, but I have no idea what I should be typing in to find such a thing. I've been putting in all sorts of search terms but never come up with anything definitive. Do you know what size gasket/o-ring they are, or what I should be searching for? Many thanks.
As an old hand, I appreciate your attention to detail and your vigilance in doing things carefully and professionally.
That motor should be good for a LOT more miles.
peace
Really appreciate you making this video. I’ve got a 1970 FLH had the motor regasketed a few thousand miles ago. Now she’s blowing oil so want to get the into the pistons and rings. Will definitely be contacting you. Thank you
This was a huge help, thank you for making this! And good music too
Sanitary shop ,looks like an operating room.well done .!!! Ride hard and free.
much appreciated! thanks for watching!
Enjoyed this video. Nice clean shop.
Much appreciated Art!
Noticed the flexable oiler tube at the end , slick .....
un shrouding those valves make a huge diffrence in the way they run!
Beautiful motor and rebuild
Thanks 👍
Another excellent video - what is the solution you are using to clean the cases?
I don't use anything crazy just some degreaser with some steel wool and it usually does the trick!
@@houseofchoppers what kind of degreaser?
You didn't show the rocker box setup clearances etc?. Pretty important step?.
I use degreaser then contact cleaner to clean the cast engine block. Yeah it costs but time is money and doing it by hand takes a long time. Easy to spray in the tight spots your hands can't get to as well.
Cool video man! First off I want to brag a bit, I got to sit on the stage with NOFX when they did a warp tour one year. A good buddy of mine use to be their bouncer.
Second, Did you put those jugs on the pistons, over the rings, by hand? Is it really that simple? Im going to pull my jugs to re-ring them.
Very good job i would trust them.
Do you have a video on shovelhead cam placement in reference to the position of the coward cylinder and timing marks on the cam itself?
Gday - - yeah great vids I've only just gottin onto them wish you were my local bike mech - haven't done the evo vid yet, that's next,, got a 78 1200 shovel(new rebuild 10yrs ago) su carb 3inch belt with jockey shift NEVER started may do in very near future, also got 1340 evo chop having a full rebuild with oversize up to around 90bhp hopefully get it back this year - - keep up the great vids 👍☠️☠️👍
Jake - - Devon UK
Thanks man! Ohh man that evo is going to be a ripper! That would be some serious power to put down on a chop! Thanks for watching!
Need to do this on my 76
Rebuilt, but never ran....
NOFX backsound huh.. thats pretty rebel
should of done him a favor and rid that oil gage....cool vid thanks for sharing
haha yah im not a huge fan of running them either, just something else to break off and fail lol
i thught your vidio was pretty good shame you had to rush it cause i was trying to brush up on the whole procedure prossess ! my biggest thing im uncertain of is how to get the proper torch spects when you do an in frame top end freashening ! i had two snap-on moon shaped box wrenches but as far a tork i cant remember hw i did it its been about thirty five years ! lol its kinda hard to get a sockett and torck wrench into those nuts on the inner bolts between the jugs and accuratly tork them is there any specsifick style tools needed for that and i was always told too re tork after you finnally reached starting point ! was said start motor run untill it gets hot then let it copleatly cool then retork , then repeat 2more times once you have done this you will be good till the next rebuild ? is this an accurate methode ?
thank you in advance for your input and or responce getting ready to do mine 78 but has the S&Ssidewinder big bore kit in it and im not sureuntill it comes apart which exsact kit i have as far as size of bore and comp pistons ! also any recomendations on what style head gasket i should go with for that ? thanks again !
Sorry for the late response! Yah I know its hard to not time-lapse the videos because no one would want to watch a 4 hour video. So there's a bunch of ways to torque the base and headbolts, I have a special torque wrench that can fit in the weird spots. Honestly though I never torque the base nuts and headbolts on shovel/pan stuff anymore. I kind of know the feel of it by now. Head bolts if I remember correctly are 65-70lbs and the only guy I know now days who torques base nuts does them at 35lbs.I usually just go around them in a star or x pattern for the base bolts until they are to desired tightness. But yes always re check them. I usually do a 4-5 heat cycles the first day on break-in and then put some light miles on it. Usually go through and recheck everything around 50miles in and then once I hit the 1000mile mark. Thats a nice kit there! Any name brand head gasket is good but I do like the James gaskets with the Firing rings. Haven't had a single problem with those! Thanks for watching!
@@houseofchoppers cool thanks for the get back bro ! yea i kinda have that same feel for tork myself ive been wrenching since i was 14 and for a living the past 30 years off and on much dirt car racing wrenching so i feel ya when ya say that you can feel it just on exsperiance ill just have to modify some of my snap-on wrenches again i guess to get in to them dam head bolts i had a nice set of moon shaped ones from snap-on but cant find them anymore and i asked the deler from where i used to work if he had any like it his answer was to modify some he doesent have tem or ever known of them ? lol all good though i got welder and torches we can make anything work with a bit of effort lolwell thanks again bro shake it easy !
how much you charge for a top end job like this, honing n shit with new gaskets? round about?
What kindve clamps did you use?? Or prefer to use I'm having issues with my clamps ..
I usually run the stainless aircraft style intake clamps, Ive used a good variety of them but the trick is to not over tighten. Just get them sun and a bit more and there set!
Dude I can’t wait for your channel to blow up!- is there any benefit to hard tailing my sportster? I dig the look but am I fuckin myself?
Thanks a lot man! Its all a preference thing. I personally like the ride and feel of a hardtail a lot better than shocks, I would say go give a Buddys bike a ride who is hard tailed and see for your self!
Thank you for your video!!! i also built my shovelhead big bore !! i have a question 🙋🏻♂️ the cylinder box say for big bore +.200 3-5/8
what’s the +.200 meaning? how to buy pistons for this cylinders for +.200
i am beginner please let me know
appreciate and Have a good day
Thank you 😊
Thanks for watching! The labeling on the box is what they want the pistons clearances to in the cylinders so when they get honed the machinist knows what tolerances to do them to!
@@houseofchoppers Thank you
nice work...where are you out of ??
im in Covina, CA
Your Suppose to remove push rods first then it easier to remove the heads.
I can do it faster this way when its out of the bike. If it was in the bike I would have collapsed the pushrods first
How much did it cost for the guy lol
Honestly don't fully remember, I think he was like 1300ish into it after all the parts and whatnot
Hey, man. I have a question for you that I hope you'll be able to answer. I've been searching for this with no luck. I have minor oil leaks out of the shaft end bolts on the rocker boxes of my shovelhead (the two bolts at the top on the A side of every shovelhead engine). I've been told that there's an o-ring of some sort that needs to be replaced in order to fix this, but I have no idea what I should be typing in to find such a thing. I've been putting in all sorts of search terms but never come up with anything definitive. Do you know what size gasket/o-ring they are, or what I should be searching for? Many thanks.
Yup easy fix! Just a few o Rings. Just type in Shovelhead rocker box O rings and it should pop right up!
@@houseofchoppers Thank you, sir!
@@houseofchoppers I could have sworn I've typed in those exact search terms. I did exactly as you said and there they are! HA!
There a kit with o rings that fixes that the o rings are made of teflon
As much as I want to I can't watch this with that music.
Well done rebuild with narration but really the music is crap!
How much for a rebuild like this?
Really depends on what needs to be replaced 1-2000 typically
Enjoy your videos and I learn from them thanks, but if I had one complaint about your videos it would be the freaking music is horrendous!!! OMG !!!!
I suggest powder coat over spray