I'm shooting a Canon EOS R 30mp body using a combination of Canon L and Tamron glass (but, most recently with the original version of the Canon 24mm f/3.5 L tilt shift). And, as you stated in this video, I've also found (the hard way) that focus stacking for interior shots provides the highest quality results. Thanks, much for the instruction and examples; both have been very helpful.
Hi there, interesting video! I actually have a question, so what is the approach to shooting in cathedrals/churches where tripods are not allowed? Capturing the images for focus stacking becomes really difficult!
I think focus Stacking in catherdrals is impossible yes. In that case choose your poison. I prefer the detail and distance to be focused and the very near subjects to fall off. It draws the eye in!
Great videos James. If you were shooting the same scene with a DSLR, do you think your long shutter speed and focus stacking would introduce noticeable vibration into your final image from the mirror and shutter movement?
Have just today located this work on RUclips. An urban landscaper by disposition, I've recently arrived in the architectural photography domain with good kit and the will to excel. Thank you for your instructive approach.
Really interesting subjects. Wondered on your thoughts of using IS/IBIS on a tripod with R5 and an IS lens. I thought Canon said leave IS on regardless as camera knows, but many people say turn off IS/IBIS when using a tripod. Have you any thoughts or experiences?
Another good 'un!! I think the tendency to stop down to small apertures stems from the good old days of film photography (before digital/photoshop) allowed us the benefits of post processing? Needing maximum depth of field in one shot required these small apertures and associated issues. Focus stacking is the future!!
In many places using a tripod is not always allowed or practical, when I photographed events, I took many establishing photos, I worked by myself and I had to carry all the camera equipment I needed to get through the day so a tripod was something that I would not carry, so I carried a micro 4/3 camera with a high quality wide angle lens, with the smaller sensor I could get a photo with greater depth of field. If I was only shooting interiors and not during events then I could use a different approach much like in your video. many people use full frame camera because of their better low light abilities but in my camera collection I have full frame, APSC and micro 4/3 Bodies because there are times that having a camera that gives you a greater depth of field at any given aperture can come in handy.
Why did you manually take three separate shots to focus stack in post, opposed to setting the focus stacking option to three shots in camera with the focus stack menu option?
Hello.Thanks. PS Christmas is a holiday of bringing happiness to every home, every family. Let your dreams come true, good luck and success will accompany your business!
Back in the DSLR era, the rule held true: the longer the exposure time, the more noise you'd get due to heat buildup in the sensor. However, modern sensors can actually benefit from longer exposures. So, nowadays, for maximum image quality, using longer exposure times is often preferable (within reasonable ambient temperatures, of course). That being said, it's certainly true that every serious photographer seeking the best image quality should be aware of the diffraction limit of their camera and lens combination.
Yeah... that difference is marked. Even on an average notebook screen and without a side-by-side comparison, the second image immediately jumped out at me. Point taken. Thank you, and have a good one.
My first time here and... oh wow! What a marvelous theme for your photography. In a different life i'd gnaw my own limbs off to have a go at this. Curses! Anyway - thanks for your efforts. Lkd&Subd. All the best from a cabin in a swamp in a rainforest in New Zealand.
Yes sure - just means everything after this is tack sharp. But mostly works for focussing at anything past this point to be honest. Especially in architecture.
You could use Canon's EOS Utility App on a notebook. Much easier to see the results (with remote shooting). And you can change the focus and trigger the shutter without touching the camera. You connect the camera with a USB cable. Works great.
Ok, but if you're advocating for f8 then shouldn't you compare a single f8 photo to a single f16 photo focused at the same point? Obviously the stacked f8 is going to look much sharper.... I'm not trying to argue anything other than the test itself is flawed. One of the points you made is that f16 takes longer to shoot, but if you stack f8 then it takes basically the same amount of time. I was waiting for the single f8 comparison to a single f16 and it never came :(
If you look up focus distances you will see there is no point/need of f16 at this distance. Its an interior. I will redo the video test in the future - and show it on focus peaking for you! :)
I just discovered your channel. Your videos are one of my favourites I saw recently. Great work and can't wait to see more from you.
Lots of videos upcoming. There from Romania last month, a couple from Georgia and heading out tomorrow on a Turkish roadtrip.
@@JamesKerwin A lot to be seen. Can't wait and have fun. :D
Thank you for this. I am just starting my architectural photography journey. Your tips are super useful. You just earned a Subscriber.
Nice report, please give some more information about bracketing in which software🙏
Sure... watch out in the next few weeks!
I'm shooting a Canon EOS R 30mp body using a combination of Canon L and Tamron glass (but, most recently with the original version of the Canon 24mm f/3.5 L tilt shift). And, as you stated in this video, I've also found (the hard way) that focus stacking for interior shots provides the highest quality results. Thanks, much for the instruction and examples; both have been very helpful.
Glad the theory has been backed up in such a way. :)
Superb. So easy to follow and improve my own photography.
Great to hear!
Hi there, interesting video!
I actually have a question, so what is the approach to shooting in cathedrals/churches where tripods are not allowed? Capturing the images for focus stacking becomes really difficult!
I think focus Stacking in catherdrals is impossible yes. In that case choose your poison. I prefer the detail and distance to be focused and the very near subjects to fall off. It draws the eye in!
Thank you so much. This was very useful
Great videos James. If you were shooting the same scene with a DSLR, do you think your long shutter speed and focus stacking would introduce noticeable vibration into your final image from the mirror and shutter movement?
Have just today located this work on RUclips. An urban landscaper by disposition, I've recently arrived in the architectural photography domain with good kit and the will to excel. Thank you for your instructive approach.
Pleasure - hope to see you around some more.
Really interesting subjects. Wondered on your thoughts of using IS/IBIS on a tripod with R5 and an IS lens. I thought Canon said leave IS on regardless as camera knows, but many people say turn off IS/IBIS when using a tripod. Have you any thoughts or experiences?
To be honest I have IBIS off at the minute.
Interesting 😊
Another good 'un!! I think the tendency to stop down to small apertures stems from the good old days of film photography (before digital/photoshop) allowed us the benefits of post processing? Needing maximum depth of field in one shot required these small apertures and associated issues. Focus stacking is the future!!
So true!
In many places using a tripod is not always allowed or practical, when I photographed events, I took many establishing photos, I worked by myself and I had to carry all the camera equipment I needed to get through the day so a tripod was something that I would not carry, so I carried a micro 4/3 camera with a high quality wide angle lens, with the smaller sensor I could get a photo with greater depth of field. If I was only shooting interiors and not during events then I could use a different approach much like in your video. many people use full frame camera because of their better low light abilities but in my camera collection I have full frame, APSC and micro 4/3 Bodies because there are times that having a camera that gives you a greater depth of field at any given aperture can come in handy.
Why did you manually take three separate shots to focus stack in post, opposed to setting the focus stacking option to three shots in camera with the focus stack menu option?
Probably because he wanted to focus where he thought was the best spot
Exactly 💯
I shoot manually and in RAW, I barely use in camera blend tools. Focus, HDR etc - I prefer to have control.
Hello.Thanks.
PS Christmas is a holiday of bringing happiness to every home, every family. Let your dreams come true, good luck and success will accompany your business!
Back in the DSLR era, the rule held true: the longer the exposure time, the more noise you'd get due to heat buildup in the sensor. However, modern sensors can actually benefit from longer exposures. So, nowadays, for maximum image quality, using longer exposure times is often preferable (within reasonable ambient temperatures, of course).
That being said, it's certainly true that every serious photographer seeking the best image quality should be aware of the diffraction limit of their camera and lens combination.
Yeah... that difference is marked. Even on an average notebook screen and without a side-by-side comparison, the second image immediately jumped out at me. Point taken. Thank you, and have a good one.
Yes, exactly. Thanks for watching.
My first time here and... oh wow! What a marvelous theme for your photography. In a different life i'd gnaw my own limbs off to have a go at this. Curses! Anyway - thanks for your efforts. Lkd&Subd. All the best from a cabin in a swamp in a rainforest in New Zealand.
Welcome aboard!
Could you clarify about focusing "1/3rd of the way through" please? I learned photo theory a decade ago so this one escapes me :), thank you!
Yes sure - just means everything after this is tack sharp. But mostly works for focussing at anything past this point to be honest. Especially in architecture.
Hello from România!
You could use Canon's EOS Utility App on a notebook. Much easier to see the results (with remote shooting).
And you can change the focus and trigger the shutter without touching the camera.
You connect the camera with a USB cable. Works great.
Thanks for sharing - and watching! In commercial work, it is a great tip. Personal work - I have enough gear to carry in etc, but it is the best way!
try HYPER-FOCAL focusing instead of stacking then you only need one image
acceptably sharp isn't perfectly sharp for large format printing though. Word of caution ⚠️ 👌
Ok, but if you're advocating for f8 then shouldn't you compare a single f8 photo to a single f16 photo focused at the same point? Obviously the stacked f8 is going to look much sharper.... I'm not trying to argue anything other than the test itself is flawed. One of the points you made is that f16 takes longer to shoot, but if you stack f8 then it takes basically the same amount of time. I was waiting for the single f8 comparison to a single f16 and it never came :(
If you look up focus distances you will see there is no point/need of f16 at this distance. Its an interior. I will redo the video test in the future - and show it on focus peaking for you! :)
video duration: 11min
message duration: 3 sec
Yes I should make every video 3 seconds long. Clever!