How To Replace Front Brakes And Rotors On A 2011 Toyota Tacoma
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
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Come along as I show you how to replace the front brake rotors and pads on the rusty 2011 Toyota Tacoma.I will also explain how to remove the pins that hold the pads into the caliper .
Just did this job on my 2009 and the set ups the same and this video was beyond helpful. Couldn’t have done it without it
Got do my son’s front brakes soon; thank you for the demonstration! Thank you for speaking CLEARLY and DISTINCTLY and in a manner that is intelligible by all! Have a nice day 😊
Spray Penetrating oil and all the bolts and the bleeder and the pan before you take it apart. Makes it a lot easier. There’s two bolt holes on the rotors . If you have trouble getting them off put bolts in the holes and it will pull the rotors off.
Had trouble sliding pads freely into place with new rotors. This video was the only one detailing the need to clean up the groove/channel in the caliper for the pads. Very helpful, very professional. Thank you. I hope my subscription earns you at least what you saved me.
Good vid. One thing I noticed other guys doing is just removing the brake line mounting bracket instead of removing the brake line retaining clip. Saves some time and prevents you from having to fuss around getting the retaining clip back on.
I just did my brakes and tried this instead. It was much easier to remove the bolt slightly about the retaining clip and disconnect the bracket it self. No messing around with a clip and possibly bending it.
Love this video and yes it is easy and not worth paying someone $200 to do it and if a girl can do this any one can ! Thanks for the great video ! Thanks to the owner of the truck for removing the tires for me first !
Great video, Mr. Jimmy. I am sure that you did go back and torque the 2 caliber bolts accordingly; however, you forgot to mention it on the video. Again, I personally thought that you did a very good self explaining throughout your video. Thanks, I am doing mine tomorrow.
I'm no Mechanic by any means but, with this great video I was able to replace both rotors and bpads in no time thanks to Jim 🤙
great vid!
I'm happy to help .Thanks for watching
Thank you. I just completed the work and it’s right too. Never could have done it without you help
Thanks Jim, this was a super awesome tutorial. It was easy to understand , and logically follow along. I’m now a subscriber. Have a good one.
Jim, Thanks a million for the instructions on how to do this job, It's great that you've taken the time to show me and others like me how to do this, I really appreciate it !
vintage tiger thank you for stopping by the shop
To bad it's impossible to find a video for this with 2wheel drive 5 lugs toyota tacoma trucks! Would be nice to see!
I’m assuming a 2010 and 2011 Tacoma front brakes are about the same….😊?….
with those pins i like to get it out enough and attach my electric drill spin them out lol makes some heat hehe
Just what to say thank you for your video. Help me doing my own brakes.
Excellent how to and explanation of how and why things are done. Thanks so much for the vid!
Thanks Jim. Good clear instructions. I will definitely look up your videos again.
Please make a video for the 2011 rear brake shoes. Thank you. 👍
Fantastic video! One question: Once completed, did you bed-in the brakes? I presume so but you didn't mention it.
Yes I road test the car before it is given back to the owner. Thank you for watching. Don't forget subscribe.
Very helpful video, thanks for sharing sir.
Im i the only one that has a brake caliper piston tool? 😅
Nothing like a good BAH! (Big Ass Hammer)
Your right the bigger the better.
Back in my day, we called it a BFH.
Great video and great mechanic work. There needs to be more guys like you out there. Good job.
ruclips.net/video/Vfvp4cNJG40/видео.html
Great video with excellent commentary
try a claw hammer take out pin like a nail
So it looks like if you're not turning the rotor you don't even have to pull the caliper off?
Oh shit you don't have to pull the bearings.... Woohoo!
Okay I'll turn the rotors
I own a 2005 Tacoma and I’m doing jobs for my car and as soon you change brakes I recommend checking rotors and calipers for better brakes conditions. Thanks brother
Excellent video. I have a 2011 Tacoma and used this video over the weekend to replace my brakes and rotors. Probably saved me a couple hundred dollars in labor I might've paid if I hadn't done the job myself. A big thank you!
Great.I'm happy to help.
ruclips.net/video/Vfvp4cNJG40/видео.html
I have a 2011 4x4 tacoma and front and rear brakes were replaced; before replacement of brakes there was screathing sound and now the sound is louder, but I only hear the sound when reversing on the driveway. Any suggestions what can be the problem. Thanks
Teacher did not check to see if there was sufficient room in the brake fluid reservoir to hold the fluid displaced, nor did he check it when finished. He did not torque any of the bolts or nuts he installed. He also did not clean the pins he removed and reinstalled. These are important steps.
Forgot to put back one part......
jim isnt theiir a inside brake pad with a warning blade when you getting low ??
Yes on some models
When taking out the brake pads and using the flat head and other tools to push the pistons back, how does that affect the rotor surface? Doesn't that damage it a bit?
You mentioned going back at the end and torquing the 17 mm bolts that hold the caliper on (with the specs) but I did not see that occur. What were those torque specs? Otherwise VERY informative... especially on how to handle the rusty parts.. Thanks
2 Things. I agree. here in PA that ain't rust. And as I would say it a BFH. Another great one Jim!
Hi Mike ,I could not deal with the rust that you and Eric have to deal with.I think you would see an old mechanic just crying on my videos..Hahaha
I ended up reusing the pins that hold the pads in. It would be nice if Toyota included them as part of the replacement kit. They were rusty and I needed to use a hammer and center punch to get them out. My first brake pad job was successful!
Anyone know of any ceramic brake shoes for the rear on a 06 ? All I’m finding is Brembo but I’m not sure if they’ll fit.
Great job very well done. One question do you recommend bleeding and changing the brake fluid every brake pad change?
If you have to take off the brake line bracket to get the line into the bracket why not just leave the clip in and just unbolt the bracket to begin with?
Does anyone know how to install a aftermarket or junkyard project fuel door actuator to lock fuel door manual lever cable or power? 2nd generation tacomas come with no fuel locking anything.
Excellent presentation. Thanks!
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted
First, thanks for the clear process of replacing brake pads and rotors; on a similar note, what brand of front brake pads and rotors do you recommend for 2011 tacoma 4x4 v6; again thanks for your contribution on teaching us how to do auto repairs.
thanks dude! great video, really took the time to explain everything with good video/sound quality. def going to take this on.
thanks for the video helped a lot. I've never done fixed caliper work before. The Haynes manual made it sound like a major production. I had to take the Dremel tool out to buzz off the head of the guide pin to take it out. Wasn't coming out the way it should have. Then come to find out both calipers were shot. Thanks again from Wisconsin where we know what rust is.
Thank you for image stabilizing it.
Thanks for watching,
Two thumbs up!
Pretty good vid but I would use the two bullet holes on the front of the rotor to extract the rotor
@Jimthecarguy thanks for sharing your knowledge and making it fun!!!! We really appreciate it.
My pleasure!
Wow. Great mechanic. Went through the process step by step and making sure everything is assembled properly and correctly. My kind of mechanic. Well done
ruclips.net/video/Vfvp4cNJG40/видео.html
Just what I need! Thanks Jim!
Glad to help!
what to say thank you for your video. I did my own front pads and rotors on my 2112 toyota tacoma
Seems like brakes go about the same time as my wheel bearings at about 90k miles good idea to do both at the same time. I LOVE my Taco! Toyota makes excellent stuff. I’m hard on bearings, lift, spacers, and lots of tough trails with boulders and water.
Thanks for watching.I also like Toyota
I originally started as a mechanic in NY and the torch was my favorite tool. NJ rust is not too bad but definitely bad compared to almost no rust in Atlanta. I only use the torch when I end up with an auction car from the North and after that if I had any thoughts of moving back to NY they disappeared completely. My son's car was used by the previous owner for ski trips to NY and I've already replaced all the fuel lines that rusted thru and this weekend I did a brake job and ended up replacing a caliper and wheel cylinder b/c even with heat and penetrant the bleeders snapped on 2 of them and then I proceeded to break off an extractor in it with heating it up cherry red. For the price of wheel cylinders & calipers it was a lot less headache so I replaced them all to get rid of all that rust along with the rotors. The brake fluid failed on the strips and had too much moisture and when I bled it compared to vehicles down here I was glad I flushed the system especially being my son's car. Now he pretty much has a rust free car. I have great respect for mechanics in the rust belts b/c that is a lot of added time not calculated in by the labor manuals. Nice video Jim!
Thank you for your input.You know what I do at my shop If the rust is that bad and slows the job down there is an extra charge.
Very good fundamental instruction.I like the fact you used basic hand tools instead of specialty tools.I feel confident enough to do mines now,
ruclips.net/video/Vfvp4cNJG40/видео.html
Nice video . I own a 2007 Toyota Tacoma . I just finished front and rear breaks on it . I will add this though and it goes for all brake jobs . Use a small wire brush or sandpaper on all surface that the pads slide on and on the hub behind the rotor . I use a 100% silicone grease on everything and since was the second time I did the front brakes no hammer was needed . ( I have 170000 mile on my truck ) . I do use never seize behind the rotor and I put in on the backside of the wheel where it makes contact with the rotor , I all so put it on the wheel studs . The reason for all this extra lub is simple beside the dissimilar metals touching each other I live in NYC and the city puts a lot of salt on the roads in the winter . And the last thing I want to do is to have to beat parts off with a hammer plus this brake system is a floating rotor type so the pads need to move freely .
Thank you for your input and for watching.
Great video Jim. I have a 2014 Tacoma. I was told by Toyota that rotors were fine. Okay to leave them and not turn?
If they are in good condition you can leave them.Thanks for watching.
outstanding video. thank you. I have one question; when changing my pads, I messed up and backed out the wrong bolt, less than a milimeter. i caused a small leak in brake fluid because I loosened and immediately re-tightened the piston bolt instead of the mounting bolt. A small bit of brake fluid was released, which told me that I did something wrong. Although it was immediately re-tightened, I received a Brake System warning light at first startup but the light went away upon subsequent starts. The brakes are a hair softer than before and the warning light has not returned. Is this a major concern?
You probably would want to bleed your brake system.
Excellent and very informative video 👍 I’ll replacing the front rotors and brakes and inspect the rear drum brakes on his 2008 Tacoma while he’s on deployment. Once completed, a test drive is mandatory on a nearby 4x4 trail 😎
Glad it helped
you should have mentioned sanding or filing the caliper rust before you put it back on
Thanks for watching.
That was a good video Jim. Did you torque those 17mm bolts holding the caliper? Ha ha ha. I live in Texas so hardly any rust problems here.😀😀
Thank you for watching.You lucky sometimes the rust is the worst part of the job.Lol
Thanks for the video! Question: is there a reason you pulled the clip on the brake line vs just removing the bolt on the bracket and tying the caliper up with wire? I noticed you pulled the clip but then also ended up removing the bracket to put the clip back on, would it be damaging to just remove the bracket to save a few steps? Thanks again!
The ABS sensor line is also attached to that same bracket, so you'd have to un-clip that too. He probably didn't want to get into it.
Getting out those pins is a job for Kroil
No backing plates on the pads?
what was the torque setting for the 17mm bolts holding the caliper ? awesome video Jim
I'm wondering the same thing.
I'm also curious to know the answer to the same question. I need the answer before I feel comfortable starting the work.
Im being doing the job today with your vedeo in my side. Thankyou
Wonderful!
very thorough and clear video. Thanks. Should you clean the piston boots too ?
Thank you for watching. No you don't have to clean the boot but if you do just wipe it with a rag no chemical cleaners
Right now, eric is cussing at a caravan's exhaust flange bolts and setting them on fire.
Didn't you know that the cussing makes you feel better and the fire is just a added bounce.Hahaha
Nice trick on the pin removal. I can see the value in buying all the related hardware.
Oh yes for sure .You want to do the job one time without any come backs.
Or you can used a longer nail to push the pin out, is just another method.
Thank you. Much appreciated.
Awesome video!!!! Super thorough. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
some rotore have two threaded holes in the bolt pattern they are used to run bolts slowly to force the rotor off the axle stub It works better than hammering the rotor off
Thank you for your input. Yes most of the time there are holes to use the screws on but I have found when the rotors are that rusted the impact to shock it loose works great.
Again, the threads of those holes just strip out if rusted. Then you have to go back to the BFH (big f...ing hammer).
There are drilled and tapped holes in the rotor for m8 bolts just drive it in with an impact and it pops the rotors right off.
Thanks for your input and for watching
When rusted, the threads just strip out, and you're back to hammering.
Might be the best how to video I have ever seen. Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
On this style of pad setup, should you grease the back of the pads where they come in contact with the pistons?
D
Yes it is a good idea.Thank you for watching.
Great Video
So, what was the tourqe on those 17 mm bolts? And, where did you find that info?
Thanks , great and informative, I love it!!
91 ft-lbs according to the Haynes manual.
Tight
Official Toyota service manual states 91 as well.
Good job Jim... that's not rust LOL.
I think I'm just spoiled when it comes to rust.Hahaha
One Auto, looks off the scale rusty to me 😂
😂 Yeh maybe.. I know you remember the UK 🇬🇧
One Auto, yeah true. When I was 18 I had a Vauxhall Senator that had spent its life on the coast of Scotland.... I know rust 😂
Rotahs, jk thanks for the video good sir.
Any time!
Good vib🙂👍
No anti squeal lube on back of pads?
No you don't use anti squeal when you use a good quality pad. Thanks for you input and for watching.
thank you for this video very helpful
I'm happy to help
Worked like a champ, thank you!
Al Rivard thanks for watching I'm happy to help
I used the jack bolts to push mine off
Thank you for watching
Excelente
Thanks for another great video.
Thank you for watching and your feedback.
like always great job jim!!!
Thank you for watching and your input
I send you messages take look in your pm and get back to me thanks.
Sorry John can you send it again.
jimthecarguy Jim never mind fixed it myself.
Great video, thank you!
Glad it helped!
thanks you are good
Thank you for watching and your feedback.
Thank you Jim for taking the time to make this video. I am thinking of doing this job myself and with this video I feel like I can. Quick question, at what miles should I flush the fluid? I live in Phoenix Arizona. If that makes any difference. Once again thank you for taking the time to make this video.
This video is a prime example of how a teacher or someone trying to teach should be. He is clear and precise with no unnecessary nonsense and explains everything so well.
ruclips.net/video/Vfvp4cNJG40/видео.html
I usually don't make comments on stuff but I wanted to let you know that this was a really great video. Seems like a lot of time people assume we know more than we do and skip steps like the break line clip! I just needed to know the correct way of getting it removed. Really wonderful video! Keep it up.
Thank you for your comment and for watching.I'm happy to help. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted