I'm not trying to be a safety nanny, bit please consider using safety glasses when grinding. As a blacksmith/welder i've spent quite a few nights at the emergency room getting splinters drilled out of my eyes (yes, they actually use a very small drill bit to remove metal splinters from the eyes). I eventually learned to protect my eyes after an infection caused by a metal splinter almost cost me my vision on one eye. Keep up the awesome work. And from the bottom of my heart, thank you for sharing your passion with all of us, inviting us into your workshop so we can follow along.
I removed alot of material from my transfer ports on the GT5 type 38mm stroke engine on my bicycle I was worried I lost too much velocity so I filled in the exhaust sides of the transfers with a bit of JB weld trying to keep the quantity and angles equal, it turned out awesome! I gained 5 mph and lost almost zero bottom end torque.
NICE, I've ported all of my handheld lawn equipment, my stihl fs130 kombi power unit, husqvarna 3120xp chainsaw, stihl bg85 hand blower and my redmax 8500 backpack blower. I just open the exhaust port on everything and clean up the transfer ports on the heads, makes a big difference. My redmax 8500 backpack blower is 12 years old and it has as much or more power than my echo pb8010 blower, which is currently the strongest blower on the market. Maybe I'll port my echo 8010 too in the future. I also use Dirko gasket sealant which is made in germany for the base gasket. It's what stihl and porsche uses and it will raise the compression as opposed to using an actual base gasket.
Just as a little tip: you can file the Cylinder down before you use sandpaper, it will get you to the wanted Height faster, just be carefull to not get it to Slanted.
I’ve played with 50cc version and after cleanup of the channels and deleting head gasket it gained solid 15 km/h. Stock topped at 40 and it went 55 after these minor mods. But at 45-50 range gas tank was catching awful resonance and sounded so awfully loud that made my ears physically suffer. Btw stock cylinder gasket was nearly 4mm thick, and ports matched piston rather good.
the kit cdi is hard on big end bearings, and can cause failures at around 500-1000 km if driven above 5500 rpm constantly. The 44t sprocket with an expansion chamber and slight compression bump can see 9250 rpms on a 26 inch wheel (around 70 kmh)
as long as you keep the rings healthy and clean the carbon on the piston from time to time, they will deal with shocklingly bad top ends with no ill effect to the bottom end. the top ends can function for 5000 km+ if you live in a flat area, go easy on the clutch and have 40t gearing, keeping the speeds around 50-55 kmh
Re my last comment about the less restricted pipe indicates a poor intake, raising the barrel will have decreased the intake timing making the above problem worse on the intake side, so even though the ex and transfer is longer the low intake timing is holding at back. Id say it need more intake timing at that rate, so yes time to measure the port timings on it to see where its at now.
the top ends can last 3000 km+ before losing compression if your jetting is on running 32:1 semi-synthetic . paying attention to the rings and changing when blow by occurs (you can buy them 4 sets at a time for cheap,)
For the first go-round of Shaving something down I use a concrete block they're pretty freaking Square brother then I go to sandpaper on top of concrete block it is like I said straight edge good work brother
Hadde vært kult om du porta den slik at den matcher et bra underbody anlegg, så får du anlegget til å passe under sykkelen! Og med en dellorto gasser selvfølgelig😍 (bare et forslag) keep the good work up!
William Jenssen Kjøpte 24mm mikuni flatside til MT5 min :) Har ikke fått prøvd den enda da jeg holder på å dreie toppen min, stempeltoppen er dreid og til at den skal matche me squishflaten
I shaved 2.2mm from the top of my tzr125 cylinder. Took under half hour on mill😁😛 I also raised the cylinder 2mm from bottom with spacer. Combustion chamber was welded and machined to spek on a lathe.
2STROKE STUFFING When you have acces to a cnc mill life is like a dream😁 What do you think was the reason for piston touching the head so easily? Because we once runned suzuki rm 125 with sguish band of 0.4mm and it runned like a champ. Now i left 0.6mm to my tzr and started to feel little suspicious because you hit the head so easily😅
2STROKE STUFFING okay😀 I also started thinking that maybe your head wasnt centered to to piston so the piston was hitting gasket surface? Thaks for the answers and greetings from Finland😀 I sure would be your patreon if i just had the money, but Im just a machinist student😅😀
How thick can a single sheet of base gasket material be before needing some kind of metal core sandwiched material. I need to raise my cylinder a little more than what I have already. Also what material do you use- paper, rubber/fiber, rubber, or other. Thanks.
Do a combo of raising the cylinder and porting the exhaust to get the ex. where it needs to be. Maybe even ridiculously big radius on top of the ex. port. Then lower the transfers bolting pieces of alu in the top of the t-ports and shape with epoxy. :)
2STROKE STUFFING I dont really know how you took that comment but I figured I'd clarify a bit. if I ride my bike when warm it revs way higher then when it is relatively cold. surprisingly these engines are somewhat resilient to abuse. After some mods, I ran my bike at 9-10000rpm wot for more than 5000 miles before I got nervous and decided to freshen it up. You shouldn't worry about blowing it up from rpm but rather things falling apart inside the engine. one ebay kit I got blew at 500 miles with a spacer from the big end con rod bearing wedged in the cylinder lol
2STROKE STUFFING btw boost bottles have little effect on power. from my experience they smooth the engine and add a little responsiveness. also the stock carb really holds you back. a generic racing carb off ebay with a jet kit makes it rev up a lot quicker.
+jjhack3r Ahh, I thought you ment they are prone to cold sieze. Yeah, I've noticed it needs a few warmup runs before power is consistent. Ouch about that spacer...
Hey brother, roll the engine to TDC and look in to the intake port, you should see the bottom of the Piston skirt. Try removing that tad bit of skirt, and then re Dyno the bike
Do you have fb messenger? I'll send you a pic of a mod I did that seemed to improve flow for those who have to leave the cap on for noise reasons just a quick Dremel and ur done
I have YD100 and want to now what is te best timin in exhaust and intake. I wnd to made médium porting in transfers, intake and exhaust. Mi engine have three gasket between cilinder and crankcase,,,, the exhaust is a tuned pipe and upgrade carb. What you recomend me for mid range power.
There's research indicating that a flat piston combined with a toroidal combustion chamber is slightly better than a domed piston and "bathtub" chamber.
uh so my bike has the same problem as I last commented about lol... but this might help you hopefully help me diagnose the problem, when I'm going up a steep hill and I have top brake, I cant get my bike to rev up high enough to get the power to get up the hill with regular speed, so I stop and let my bike downshift, I pull out back onto the hill and blast up the fill for a second or two but then the revs drop like iv changed gear and it goes back to being slow, I don't think its the rollers because as I said last time I put in lighter ones
if you put these in it 170 125-130 150 with the right shapes it will run good. auxiliary ports is also possible? some more transfers is a good idea too I think.
even when they start to lose compression, ive seen a 2000km+ deeply scratched cylinder that ingested rocks with 75 psi compression pull a 225 pound person up to 55-58 kmh on a 36 t sprocket (was on its 3rd set of rings_
@@marthamryglod291 well to open up my intake and Transfer ports it works great you can buy the carbide burs on EBay and that’s where I got everything for pretty cheap, I’m happy with the result’s
Thanks for doing that ! :) It would be interesting what power outputs the engine alone, hence how much power is lost on its way to the ground. :) Did you check the exhaust gasket as well ? Mine is overhanging quite a lot. Also, gutting the exhaust to make expansion chamber out of the silencer could work. :) Sorry for you girlfriend if you do so.
So just out of curiosity did u find any air leaks in your crank seals?or any issues from factory?ive bought 12 engines,on my 12th build now,and theres always something,i almost always have An air leak somewhere but ive already had to change out the whole clutch assembly,including berrings,now my crank seal went on clutch side n i hta wait another few weeks to ride again,i think they all suck but i cant stop!ha ha ha
+Simon Portelli Oversimplified, You'll get less time-area, but also less short circuiting at lower rpm - less rpm potential, potentially more power at lower rpm. You'll need a longer pipe. Remember that just as going much over 190° exhaust duration weakens resonance, so does going much under.
you should try out this www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/torquepipe.html, it works pretty well for me yet I'd love to see it on the dyno, unless I'll get my hands on one of your ardyno shields and try it myself
+MrSlehofer Would be fun to play with that weird design! Though I'm pretty confident a more "conventional" pipe of the same length could work even better.
Skitkul att följa. Men jag blir rätt nervös varje gång du kör den på bänken =P. Men detta är en kolvstyrd motor liknande en gammal Sachs. Ett hemmabyggt reedinsug hade ju varit kul att prova ;)
When people talk about porting.... how come none of you ever mention that when you port, do you or do you not enlarge the port all the way to the inner edge of the cylinder wall increasing the length or not? Well, DO YOU???? Or do you just enlarge the outside of the cylinder leaving it tapered down to where the opening on the inside is left alone??? I don't get it because no one ever talks about that.
I bet this engine could benefit from a... get ready for it: Heavier flywheel. I don't like the way it oscillates up and down in revs like that when it's under full power, it'll mess with the carb tuning I'm sure.
Do you have any videos on port timing on 26 and 29cc engines? I run 1/5th scale rc's and want to learn to mod my own engines. I'm not sure where to start. I asked many people for help but nobody wants to help like this is some big secret. Any advice would be fantastic. Also do you have a Facebook page?
This goes completely against your channels name but I just bought a yamaha r1 1990 with a good engine just needs a couple of fluids and tune up and fairing for 150dollars but as you know motorcycles are 4 stroke how much luck do you think I'll have repearing jt
Well, not really. The ignition timing changes together with the RPM - this ignition coil+CDI scheme doing it. The keyway on the left axle of the crankshaft for the magnet key may differ, so we have early ignition and tuners shifts it 4,5 degrees like this: www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/woodruff.html So it worked with my engine as described, I used wider 4 mm woodruff key and filed it to 3 mm from different sides to make magnet 1 mm offset. You can try both ways - to make an ignition timing retardation by turning the magnet counter-clockwise by 1 mm or make it earlier by turning clockwise. Just don't turn up the magnet - it will change poles and ignition timing by 180 degrees, so mark the outside before removing )) P.S. To remove the magnet I used this Chinese pulling ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB14LBtLpXXXXXoXpXXq6xXFXXXB/226248071/HTB14LBtLpXXXXXoXpXXq6xXFXXXB.jpg "35x45 mm".
And about lowering of the cylinder. The piston in it's lowest position (BDC) opens transfer ports end exhaust port only partially, so lowering the cylinder makes it worse. This is done on purpose with transfer ports - it's good for piston optimal cooling. And with the exhaust port - tuners making it's top part wider and slightly higher so it changes it's form from oval to something like inverted trapezoid with rounded edges.
+Alex Ray I haven't lowered the cylinder, I raised it. Having the piston partially covering the transfers at BDC is not good for piston cooling. You want the piston flush with the port floor so fresh mix can flow over the dome cooling it, if the piston is higher it creates a "kicker" pushing flow away from the dome.
If your chain comes off, then it's not tight enough, end of story. I use the included fixed tensioner, and I have never had that happen. It's tricky to get it right, as the tension changes when you go to tighten it down. But it's easy to tell if it's too tight. It WILL take several tries, but once you get it in the slot, you're golden.
you should really make a chain guard.... becouse if you dont and that chain breaks you are going to regret it for the rest of your life (you could lose a leg)
Gday, have a look at www.dragonfly75.com. I have the slightly smaller 48-49cc, no idea how much power it's making but I have tidied up transfers and used port map from dragon fly site, changed spark plug, replaced carby for a Tecumseh carb off an old cylinder mower 4 stroke lol, but works great extended intake manifold length but the best mod so far was rm 80 expansion chamber. It now has proper band, goes hard, not sure of max rpm but top speed is 65-70km with standard 44 tooth sprocket. Anyway that's my 2 bob, I enjoy your channel, cheers
www.gasbike.net/products/super-charge-cdi-for-48cc-66cc-80cc-high-performance-1 these engines benefit from having an ignition with a seperate coil/cdi with spark retardation in the upper rpms www.gasbike.net/products/super-charge-cdi-for-48cc-66cc-80cc-high-performance-1 You can also use a coil from a honda cr 2 stroke bike and a yamaha pw80 replacement cdi
Empty cartridge casings are great for cutting bolt holes in gaskets. You are the 2 stroke master.
Thank you for that tip.
Just watching old uploads to support and because i like it.
Thanks man!
Yeah love that
I liked the smirk you had after using the belt sander. Pretty sure I would've done the same thing. Got to say, I'm intrigued.
+Todd Anderson Haha, Thanks!
finally a man that knows how to tune a 2-stroke.
I'm not trying to be a safety nanny, bit please consider using safety glasses when grinding.
As a blacksmith/welder i've spent quite a few nights at the emergency room getting splinters drilled out of my eyes (yes, they actually use a very small drill bit to remove metal splinters from the eyes).
I eventually learned to protect my eyes after an infection caused by a metal splinter almost cost me my vision on one eye.
Keep up the awesome work.
And from the bottom of my heart, thank you for sharing your passion with all of us, inviting us into your workshop so we can follow along.
Enjoying this series of dyno videos very much mate! Great work 😁
+2 Wheel Will Thanks!
I removed alot of material from my transfer ports on the GT5 type 38mm stroke engine on my bicycle I was worried I lost too much velocity so I filled in the exhaust sides of the transfers with a bit of JB weld trying to keep the quantity and angles equal, it turned out awesome! I gained 5 mph and lost almost zero bottom end torque.
You should try to balance the crankshaft! That would be an interesting test.
+Martinoffi I'll do that when I have it apart
some of these engines with a 38 mm stroke have balanced cranks
@@arthurericson4130 I would suggest that might be coincidental accident, as even a broken clock is right twice a day. Hahahahaha
really enjoying this little series! I'm going to try these mods on my friends bike after its done break in.😉👍
+newscooler12316 Thanks!
If he has a yd100 the piston comes in backwards on every video I seen so if it is check it now, if not good luck
NICE, I've ported all of my handheld lawn equipment, my stihl fs130 kombi power unit, husqvarna 3120xp chainsaw, stihl bg85 hand blower and my redmax 8500 backpack blower. I just open the exhaust port on everything and clean up the transfer ports on the heads, makes a big difference. My redmax 8500 backpack blower is 12 years old and it has as much or more power than my echo pb8010 blower, which is currently the strongest blower on the market. Maybe I'll port my echo 8010 too in the future. I also use Dirko gasket sealant which is made in germany for the base gasket. It's what stihl and porsche uses and it will raise the compression as opposed to using an actual base gasket.
Just as a little tip: you can file the Cylinder down before you use sandpaper, it will get you to the wanted Height faster, just be carefull to not get it to Slanted.
File...sand...?..to remove material..
To painful for me..
I would chuck it in lathe dial it in..
Face it off
And end it
I’ve played with 50cc version and after cleanup of the channels and deleting head gasket it gained solid 15 km/h. Stock topped at 40 and it went 55 after these minor mods. But at 45-50 range gas tank was catching awful resonance and sounded so awfully loud that made my ears physically suffer.
Btw stock cylinder gasket was nearly 4mm thick, and ports matched piston rather good.
+Никита Надеин Nice! Haha, 4mm gasket😂
the kit cdi is hard on big end bearings, and can cause failures at around 500-1000 km if driven above 5500 rpm constantly. The 44t sprocket with an expansion chamber and slight compression bump can see 9250 rpms on a 26 inch wheel (around 70 kmh)
as long as you keep the rings healthy and clean the carbon on the piston from time to time, they will deal with shocklingly bad top ends with no ill effect to the bottom end.
the top ends can function for 5000 km+ if you live in a flat area, go easy on the clutch and have 40t gearing, keeping the speeds around 50-55 kmh
If those splinters get in your eye the eye doctor uses a diamond Dril to tune the squish in your eye :) be careful man we want to see more tuned stuf
I'm going to be trying this on my engine soon
Re my last comment about the less restricted pipe indicates a poor intake, raising the barrel will have decreased the intake timing making the above problem worse on the intake side, so even though the ex and transfer is longer the low intake timing is holding at back. Id say it need more intake timing at that rate, so yes time to measure the port timings on it to see where its at now.
This YT channel is very good. And honest. Not this time for this bike. On next video, for sure! Regards from Rio de Janeiro
+DT200 Pônei Maldito Thanks!
The kit cdi ignition curve has exponential advance , anything above 5k constantly will kill the bottom end long term
+Matthew Ledgerwood Sounds like bad news...
Copper gaskets.Even copper base gasket too. Old racing trick is over size base gasket; as a fin :) Make from sheet. also can buy on line.
Heh i never saw that in any old tuning books, gona try it
the top ends can last 3000 km+ before losing compression if your jetting is on running 32:1 semi-synthetic . paying attention to the rings and changing when blow by occurs (you can buy them 4 sets at a time for cheap,)
For the first go-round of Shaving something down I use a concrete block they're pretty freaking Square brother then I go to sandpaper on top of concrete block it is like I said straight edge good work brother
+Critical Mass Critical Mass Thanks, good tip!
Hadde vært kult om du porta den slik at den matcher et bra underbody anlegg, så får du anlegget til å passe under sykkelen! Og med en dellorto gasser selvfølgelig😍 (bare et forslag) keep the good work up!
William Jenssen mikuni* ;)
+William Jenssen 😁👍
Tyi I mikuni ja* 24mm flatslide😍 tenkte helt standard trim jeg..
William Jenssen Kjøpte 24mm mikuni flatside til MT5 min :) Har ikke fått prøvd den enda da jeg holder på å dreie toppen min, stempeltoppen er dreid og til at den skal matche me squishflaten
Tyi I ikke dårlig😉 jeg holder meg riktig nok bare til å kjøpe "trimtopp"😂 Skulle hatt dreibenk😐
i would love to see what carbon fibre reed valve will do on dyno test.
I shaved 2.2mm from the top of my tzr125 cylinder. Took under half hour on mill😁😛 I also raised the cylinder 2mm from bottom with spacer. Combustion chamber was welded and machined to spek on a lathe.
+Eurobeatmachinist86 Oh how different life would be with a mill...
2STROKE STUFFING When you have acces to a cnc mill life is like a dream😁 What do you think was the reason for piston touching the head so easily? Because we once runned suzuki rm 125 with sguish band of 0.4mm and it runned like a champ. Now i left 0.6mm to my tzr and started to feel little suspicious because you hit the head so easily😅
+Eurobeatmachinist86 One day! It's probably the super cheap bearings, I've run 0.4mm in lots of proper engines too.
2STROKE STUFFING okay😀 I also started thinking that maybe your head wasnt centered to to piston so the piston was hitting gasket surface? Thaks for the answers and greetings from Finland😀 I sure would be your patreon if i just had the money, but Im just a machinist student😅😀
+Eurobeatmachinist86 Yeah, that' was my first thought too, but it is actually (against all odds) centered. It's the thought that counts☺️
That looks like a decent gain down low it would probably perform better on road
Love the dyno series bro
+715101 Thanks!
Keep it up bud! Share these with your new zeda family.
+Motored Life Thanks! Good idea!
When looking at some castings you wounder if they where using kitty litter instead of sand to make to mold.
+Henrik Yngvesson I see what you mean...
Kitty litter, defiantly kitty litter.. 😧
You should get grannet it's a true surface and put your sand paper on that for surfacing
Try again with out the exhaust cap? Nice videos man I'm so glad I subscribed I love your video!
+Diamond Star Garage Thanks! The last few runs were without it.
How thick can a single sheet of base gasket material be before needing some kind of metal core sandwiched material. I need to raise my cylinder a little more than what I have already. Also what material do you use- paper, rubber/fiber, rubber, or other. Thanks.
Do a combo of raising the cylinder and porting the exhaust to get the ex. where it needs to be. Maybe even ridiculously big radius on top of the ex. port. Then lower the transfers bolting pieces of alu in the top of the t-ports and shape with epoxy. :)
great video! always fun to watch how you do things. just a tip tho: these motorized bikes dont like to rev up when cool
+jjhack3r Thanks! I'll take it more easy with it, tend to forget what it is...
2STROKE STUFFING I dont really know how you took that comment but I figured I'd clarify a bit. if I ride my bike when warm it revs way higher then when it is relatively cold. surprisingly these engines are somewhat resilient to abuse. After some mods, I ran my bike at 9-10000rpm wot for more than 5000 miles before I got nervous and decided to freshen it up. You shouldn't worry about blowing it up from rpm but rather things falling apart inside the engine. one ebay kit I got blew at 500 miles with a spacer from the big end con rod bearing wedged in the cylinder lol
2STROKE STUFFING btw boost bottles have little effect on power. from my experience they smooth the engine and add a little responsiveness. also the stock carb really holds you back. a generic racing carb off ebay with a jet kit makes it rev up a lot quicker.
+jjhack3r Ahh, I thought you ment they are prone to cold sieze. Yeah, I've noticed it needs a few warmup runs before power is consistent. Ouch about that spacer...
2STROKE STUFFING yeah, my wording was a little off. I can easily see how that could have been misread. Anyways, keep up the good videos! Peace, man!
Hey brother, roll the engine to TDC and look in to the intake port, you should see the bottom of the Piston skirt. Try removing that tad bit of skirt, and then re Dyno the bike
+countryguywithcamera Exactly, and I made it even worse by lifting the cylinder.
I think if you were to remove the baffle cap again you'd probably see power gains across the board, but I understand why you had it on
+countryguywithcamera I took it off before the power runs. Think I filmed it, but I didn't mention it, should've done that.
Do you have fb messenger? I'll send you a pic of a mod I did that seemed to improve flow for those who have to leave the cap on for noise reasons just a quick Dremel and ur done
+countryguywithcamera Cool, check the video description, link to my fb page there.
I have YD100 and want to now what is te best timin in exhaust and intake. I wnd to made médium porting in transfers, intake and exhaust. Mi engine have three gasket between cilinder and crankcase,,,, the exhaust is a tuned pipe and upgrade carb.
What you recomend me for mid range power.
have to remove the paint in the head becuase of the heat transfare?
If you make your piston top flat will it make more power (not talking about this engine, put in general)
There's research indicating that a flat piston combined with a toroidal combustion chamber is slightly better than a domed piston and "bathtub" chamber.
do u have a link for where to buy the angle attachment for porting the transfers?
So by raising the cylinder with a thicker base gasket does that increase intake duration or decrease?
uh so my bike has the same problem as I last commented about lol... but this might help you hopefully help me diagnose the problem, when I'm going up a steep hill and I have top brake, I cant get my bike to rev up high enough to get the power to get up the hill with regular speed, so I stop and let my bike downshift, I pull out back onto the hill and blast up the fill for a second or two but then the revs drop like iv changed gear and it goes back to being slow, I don't think its the rollers because as I said last time I put in lighter ones
+ThatGuyCalled ART I suspect the rear pulley guide pins, Replied to your other comment with link to video showing them.
if you put these in it
170
125-130
150
with the right shapes it will run good.
auxiliary ports is also possible?
some more transfers is a good idea too I think.
+Jurrian Mulder I'll see what I can do!
www.puchmaxi.nl/puch_calculator.php
Did you know this application? Easy to calculate every port
+Jurrian Mulder Nope. Nice, seems like a quick easy way.
More info about the dyno? How dit you make IT ?
Check out my earlier vids, there's one there!
Sorry subsribed for the updates , never looked back 😁
Any tips how to upgrade a crm 250 engine
have you thought about designing and building your own expansion chamber exhaust for this engine?
+Dragon800 Yep, it's coming later!
sweet cant wait!
thx.
Hold up are my transfer ports on my mb supposed to have the cylinder sleeve type thing covering them because mine are open
Just a different design. Doesn’t make any more power opened than closed
even when they start to lose compression, ive seen a 2000km+ deeply scratched cylinder that ingested rocks with 75 psi compression pull a 225 pound person up to 55-58 kmh on a 36 t sprocket (was on its 3rd set of rings_
Great video, thanks! Where did you get the dentist's drill?
Thanks! Ebay.
Where did you get your grinding tool ?
I’m surprised because it actually fits inside the cylinder and alloys you to do work
Dental drills, and there's a porting tool supply company that has everything you need. I think that is where he mentioned getting them.
@@marthamryglod291 thanks got me a dental drill
@@frnkguard1 how is using the dental drill? I was considering purchasing one for the transfer roofs and keeping tight radiuses
@@marthamryglod291 well to open up my intake and Transfer ports it works great you can buy the carbide burs on EBay and that’s where I got everything for pretty cheap, I’m happy with the result’s
@@marthamryglod291 works well actually I got mine port’d
thanks to the fact that they have around 115-120 psi compression when broken in (6:1)
+Matthew Ledgerwood I might have bumped that up a bit...
makes sense
Thanks for the video my 2stroke friend,
great info, keep up the great work
☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
Thanks for doing that ! :) It would be interesting what power outputs the engine alone, hence how much power is lost on its way to the ground. :)
Did you check the exhaust gasket as well ? Mine is overhanging quite a lot.
Also, gutting the exhaust to make expansion chamber out of the silencer could work. :) Sorry for you girlfriend if you do so.
Thanks! The exhaust gasket wasn't bad on this one. Interesting idea with the hacked silencer!
What right angle rotary tool are you using?
Homemade + dental drill
Good Video.
+Joe Young Thanks!
How boost port work? Do they make power?
engine mounted chain tensioner save your tire and no more throwing chains
+sean orr Next episode...
What did you make the gasket from??
Gasket material from the hardware store.
Thx for the reply man❤
Can U do more videos on motorized bikes
I would get the belt sander out too.
+derk nobit And as long as you leave some material for hand finishing it works just fine!
Good point
What Die grinder do you use?
So just out of curiosity did u find any air leaks in your crank seals?or any issues from factory?ive bought 12 engines,on my 12th build now,and theres always something,i almost always have An air leak somewhere but ive already had to change out the whole clutch assembly,including berrings,now my crank seal went on clutch side n i hta wait another few weeks to ride again,i think they all suck but i cant stop!ha ha ha
Can you port for low end rpm???
+Simon Portelli Small/low ports and long pipe is the way to go. Won't make much power tho..
2STROKE STUFFING if you lowwer the ports what will happen?
+Simon Portelli Oversimplified, You'll get less time-area, but also less short circuiting at lower rpm - less rpm potential, potentially more power at lower rpm. You'll need a longer pipe. Remember that just as going much over 190° exhaust duration weakens resonance, so does going much under.
More fire !
What engine is this?
You should make a custom exhaust pipe with an expansion chamber
+love_for_bikes 15 I plan on doing just that later in the process!
you should try out this www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/torquepipe.html,
it works pretty well for me yet I'd love to see it on the dyno, unless I'll get my hands on one of your ardyno shields and try it myself
+MrSlehofer Would be fun to play with that weird design! Though I'm pretty confident a more "conventional" pipe of the same length could work even better.
+MrSlehofer The Ardyno shield are in production btw!
excellent, can't wait to get my hands on it, you planning to put it on kickstarter or sell it on ebay?
Skitkul att följa.
Men jag blir rätt nervös varje gång du kör den på bänken =P.
Men detta är en kolvstyrd motor liknande en gammal Sachs.
Ett hemmabyggt reedinsug hade ju varit kul att prova ;)
+Nikel87 Takker! Kan hende det blir reeds etterhvert!
More info please, keep up the good work
When people talk about porting.... how come none of you ever mention that when you port, do you or do you not enlarge the port all the way to the inner edge of the cylinder wall increasing the length or not? Well, DO YOU???? Or do you just enlarge the outside of the cylinder leaving it tapered down to where the opening on the inside is left alone??? I don't get it because no one ever talks about that.
Sorry to be off topic here, but how much is an average Aprillia RS250 in your country?
+Dave Spooney No clue, sorry. Probably expensive...
Put a scooter tuning exhaust on it
+Jojo Jojo I've got a Malossi Team pipe, it's going on!
2STROKE STUFFING uuh the malossi team is for a lot of rpm more thank 10k
You realy think it works well on that engine?
+Jojo Jojo Probably not, but I have it...
I bet this engine could benefit from a... get ready for it: Heavier flywheel. I don't like the way it oscillates up and down in revs like that when it's under full power, it'll mess with the carb tuning I'm sure.
+ekner You're probably right about that. The oscillation is from the wobbly rear wheel I think tho.
3 bearings tolerance op to 0.2 each. 0.6 then it vil hit the top 0.7 gos free
Det går da frem af ;-) prøv eventuelt med en kreidler tun potte det noget der virker
+søren Knudsen Takker! Og takk for tips!
I don't understand what you're saying since i'm German but Kreidler is the best.
Do you have any videos on port timing on 26 and 29cc engines? I run 1/5th scale rc's and want to learn to mod my own engines. I'm not sure where to start. I asked many people for help but nobody wants to help like this is some big secret. Any advice would be fantastic. Also do you have a Facebook page?
ahahha i like how he cuts it then smiles :P
Tes francophone? Salut de Kirkland lake
Can I convince u to build an engine for an uberscoot 2x? A 63cc huasheng unrestricted motor?
This goes completely against your channels name but I just bought a yamaha r1 1990 with a good engine just needs a couple of fluids and tune up and fairing for 150dollars but as you know motorcycles are 4 stroke how much luck do you think I'll have repearing jt
+nightmare in action nighmare in action Great, you can do it!
A 1990 Yamaha R1 ?..... are you sure!
martin allen nope I just picked it up but its a fzr1000 we just loaded it up and we are sriving back hoke I'll start a youtube series on this
I'm actually editing a video on my phone right now
Looking forward to seeing it :) The old FZR1000 was a lovely bike.
your sprocket and chain is all over the place
Waste of time just make a single ring piston for it
+fishsticks you're probably right.
Mismatched porting is a commonn thing. Its not designed for performance. Just for normal. Use
I bet you know this already but the reason you lost Power is because you put back the exhaust end cap.
Thought it blew at the end haa
+Dave Spooney So did I... Phew
Looking forward to seeing the hp increase (hopefully?)👍🏻😎
The end cap makes u loose alot of power
It’s a pity not to have a translation into Portuguese BR :( but very good
Чайник,паранитовая прокладка под головкой цилиндра прогорит,от большой температуры,не зря заводскую ставят алюминиевую Al!
For next video change the exhaust
Hey the ignition timing for the spark is way retarded to start changing anything els,just gets too hot.
+Loren Keith I'm getting a new timing light today, yeah it feels/sounds very retarded.
Well, not really. The ignition timing changes together with the RPM - this ignition coil+CDI scheme doing it. The keyway on the left axle of the crankshaft for the magnet key may differ, so we have early ignition and tuners shifts it 4,5 degrees like this: www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/woodruff.html
So it worked with my engine as described, I used wider 4 mm woodruff key and filed it to 3 mm from different sides to make magnet 1 mm offset.
You can try both ways - to make an ignition timing retardation by turning the magnet counter-clockwise by 1 mm or make it earlier by turning clockwise. Just don't turn up the magnet - it will change poles and ignition timing by 180 degrees, so mark the outside before removing ))
P.S. To remove the magnet I used this Chinese pulling ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB14LBtLpXXXXXoXpXXq6xXFXXXB/226248071/HTB14LBtLpXXXXXoXpXXq6xXFXXXB.jpg "35x45 mm".
+Alex Ray Just got a new timing light, looking forward to seing how this ignition behaves. Thanks for the tips!
And about lowering of the cylinder. The piston in it's lowest position (BDC) opens transfer ports end exhaust port only partially, so lowering the cylinder makes it worse. This is done on purpose with transfer ports - it's good for piston optimal cooling. And with the exhaust port - tuners making it's top part wider and slightly higher so it changes it's form from oval to something like inverted trapezoid with rounded edges.
+Alex Ray I haven't lowered the cylinder, I raised it. Having the piston partially covering the transfers at BDC is not good for piston cooling. You want the piston flush with the port floor so fresh mix can flow over the dome cooling it, if the piston is higher it creates a "kicker" pushing flow away from the dome.
If your chain comes off, then it's not tight enough, end of story. I use the included fixed tensioner, and I have never had that happen. It's tricky to get it right, as the tension changes when you go to tighten it down. But it's easy to tell if it's too tight. It WILL take several tries, but once you get it in the slot, you're golden.
all nighter huh ? :D
you should really make a chain guard.... becouse if you dont and that chain breaks you are going to regret it for the rest of your life (you could lose a leg)
+Mario Raja I should. Could mount the one that came with the kit, but I doubt it's much help...
2STROKE STUFFING you could make a chain guard of you choise out of sheet metal
I have been riding a motorized bike for 15 yrs no chain guard still got both legs
so much smoke from engine in last run. hope you didnt burn anything
+Jacob Phanton It's just from the WD40 I cleaned it with!
ahh. like the videos. its cool you have a personal dyno!
+Jacob Phanton Thanks! It is cool!
Gday, have a look at www.dragonfly75.com.
I have the slightly smaller 48-49cc, no idea how much power it's making but I have tidied up transfers and used port map from dragon fly site, changed spark plug, replaced carby for a Tecumseh carb off an old cylinder mower 4 stroke lol, but works great extended intake manifold length but the best mod so far was rm 80 expansion chamber. It now has proper band, goes hard, not sure of max rpm but top speed is 65-70km with standard 44 tooth sprocket.
Anyway that's my 2 bob, I enjoy your channel, cheers
+chititia Thanks! And thanks for the tips!
0.7 scuice
yaaaa i seen my name lol
6.01 se pego !!!!jojojojojoj
Always more bad combo’s then good ones..... old tuner :)
+Pete Hanas true.
www.gasbike.net/products/super-charge-cdi-for-48cc-66cc-80cc-high-performance-1
these engines benefit from having an ignition with a seperate coil/cdi with spark retardation in the upper rpms
www.gasbike.net/products/super-charge-cdi-for-48cc-66cc-80cc-high-performance-1
You can also use a coil from a honda cr 2 stroke bike and a yamaha pw80 replacement cdi
+Matthew Ledgerwood Thanks for the tips! Yep, two strokes want retarded ignition at higher rpm.
Хороший канал но не понимаю что говоришь удачи тебе и лайк))